I had a chat earlier with HC01 another forum member and he mentioned about using Honey on his feed schedule

1ml/L and then 2ml/L towards the end of flowering. This made me very interested in this thus has made the Topic of the day for me and after a little searching and reading, there isn't very much information our there on the subject but from what i could it helps it helps a lot!

Personally i think Honey is a Incredible food and has antibacterial properties, i use it instead of Sugar for my Cups of Tea one spoon in the morning and then at night and i swear it helps my throat and breathing and apparently its good for the immune system, teeth and finer nails so being a smoker every little helps hehe but the bit of information out there on using it on our plants is all a bit inconclusive and as there isn't a post about this subject well it led me to create this one.

The applications i have found so far are

- HC01's method of 1ml/L then 2ml/L towards the end of flowering, that's one feed with honey then next feed with Nutrients and so on.

- Using Manuka Honey for Clones/Cuttings

- Using it to sterilize and protect fresh cuts from Fim/Topping techniques

So my Question to everyone is, What is your past experience's with it and what are your thought's on using it?

Peace

GreenHouse Feeding have a new additive in the bio line,  Enhancer, one amazing phyton-protector with:

Humic acids

Fulvic acids

Seaweed

Thricoderma

Bacillus subtilis

….

Perfect to prevent phytosphora, phytium….or to fight againts powdery mildew for example. In addition, increase the life and energy in the soil with amino and carbohydrates, and promotes the plants rooting.

In fact, we did a lot of tests germinating seeds. Apply between 0.3gr-0.5gr/liter the growth was increased significantly. But obviously, this would be only neccesary  if we are working with old seeds, or with bad conservation. In anyway the expenses, for the low amount of Enhancer in the mixture, is insignificant if we want to use it in all our seeds germinations.

Each 15 days, I make manteinance in my mothers room, removing new sprouts. I usually put these cuttings in a plastic glass with water like backup for the next 15 days.

One month ago, I irrigated a few automatic seeds with water+0.3gr/liter enhancer. I used that mixture in the plastic glass where I put he cutting plants(backups). 4-5 days later, I took a look the cuttings and I saw roots in 3 (between 25+-) of them!! Eureka!. You can imagine my face. I did the same the last +15 years and never I saw roots with that size in 4-5 days, only putting one cutting in water.

Like I am not looking for roots, I didnt take pics, and I dont know if exactly was 4 or 5 days. But after see that, It was enough to make one test.

I did the next:

1-Sink jiffys(peat pellet) in water with Enhancer(0.3gr/liter)

2-Drain off

3-Insert the cuttings.

Easy!! Keep it simple style! Only with that, I had roots in 6 days, and the cuttings were ready to leave the greenhouse 1 week later, only with 0.3gr of Greenhouse feeding Enhancer, and without hormones or additives. And I was travelling, so the cares were zero.

And of course, we can root plants only with water and one medium, water, soil, coco... But 100%, in 7 days, without hormones, and only make clones and transplant 1 week later, is very nice!

So I did another test, with the same results. Cutting plants ready in 1 week.

I was speaking with my engineer mate  in the office about this. And he did the same , and roots in 7 days and a long hairy in 15 days. Pics attached. Amazing!!!

In the same time I did another test with one Chemdog mother. Is a very special plant for me, with a incredible taste. Only for that I keep it, because is a hell cloning It and have a very slow growth in the first stage.  For that, when I want grow It, I always use additives to get roots in 15 days. The last times I was with Azos, from xtreme gardening. Azospirillum brasilensis. Is a nitrogen fixim bacterium who estimulate the roots.

I did a few clones with Azos, and a few clones with Enhancer. And “voilà”, roots with Enhancer in 7 days and any root trace with Azospirillum( usually roots in this strain in 12-15 days, sometimes later) Incredible!!

chemdog and Ssh pics, 8 days.

I was talking with people who have the same strain and they are without words Xddd

One of them gave me Clonex(out of the market in Spain)because he is using it to make clones of this strain,  and I will make a comparative between these hormones and Enhancer the next days.  In my opinion Clonex have more name than unique results. But like a few years ago It was the main product in the market to make roots, now out of the market people think is the best. And yes, the AIB Works, but isnt the panacea.

I will use other concentrations, rock whool…

Cheers!!

By Bryce Fredrickson

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a clear sharp smelling substance very similar in appearance to water (H2O). Like water it is made up of Hydrogen (H2) and Oxygen (O2), however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement. It is this extra atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 has been used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This article isn't about any of these; instead it will concentrate on horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening.

What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do?

H2O2 is an unstable molecule, when it breaks down a single oxygen atom and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another O- atom forming a stable Oxygen molecule or attack a nearby organic molecule. Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. This is the method by which H2O2 is beneficial. Pre treating the water supply with H2O2will drive out the Chlorine many cities use to sterilize it. This will also degrade any pesticides or herbicides that might be present as well as any other organic matter. Well water can be high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by Oxygen, the free Oxygen H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) in the system preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases.

Over Watering

Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water.

In a Hydroponic system the cause is a more direct simple lack of oxygen in the solution; this may be from inadequate circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures also interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve in the water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended. The same symptoms will appear as with soil plants but you can also check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish color with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginning of a serious problem. An organic, ‘dirt like’ rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot they eat Oxygen out of the water, as Oxygen levels are even further depleted more roots die, a viscous circle may be well under way. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures both encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi. The plants may still be saved but you will have to work fast.

How Hydrogen Peroxide prevents root rot/over watering.

When plants are watered with H2O2 it will break down and release Oxygen into the area around the roots. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic system H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system.

How to use it.

H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.

Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 12 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day.

Where to get it.

35% food grade: called food grade because it has no toxic impurities. Of course your local hydroponics retailer, whom you can locate over the web.(there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water.

3%5%, 8% Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters.

What to do if you already have root rot.

In Dirt:

Use peroxide water with an anti-fungicide and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for root growth. Or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in regrowing roots and is strongly recommended. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot. This sound like bad idea, but it flushes out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry.

In Hydro:

Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand you should pull them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Increase aeration of the water, get an air pump and air stones, or more of them, for the reservoir. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Models that will do from forty to four hundred stones are available. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilty plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy.

Summary

The key to big productive plants is a big healthy root system and Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops. Additional info

The additional chloroplastic activity as a result of the chlorophyll deeping will give you much thicker stems and larger leaves, with much deeper green. Yes the plants can absorb more light. the solution will also be much cleaner as the organic matter is oxidized to make...oxygen

happy growing,

john

This is not a BE ALL TO END ALL cloning guide.

This is what works for me. I've gone thru countless guides absorbed them.

and FOUND WHAT WORKS FOR ME.

If anything use this guide as a baseline and watch your cuttings.

First off I've soaked my rock wool plugs.

in this case 24 hours ( I give it 1/8 strenght http://www.1-hydroponics.co.uk/web/manual/doc/hydro-garden/dry-flower-products/green-up-solution/index.html )

I squeeze the rock wool make sure its not water logged, in all reality you only need to soak it for a few hours until all plugs are uniform in texture and density but i want the wool to hold as much water as it can becasu i don't "water" my clones until Day 6 or 7 depending on outside humidity and temp

Ok first picture, Get your Shit prepaired before you do anything.

HAVE EVERYTHING READY!

I prefer to Use rooting Gel, as i find it give an even coat to the rooting horemones.

Powder works as well, makesure its #2 or the semi hard wood option.. I find it jsut doesn't coat the cutting evenly. more on this later.

NEXT: Find your Victim...

as a general rule, my clones from tip to rooting tip are about 4 inchs or so. the width of my hand.

NEXT: Always Take a little more then you need. gives you a LITTTLE more time. more on this at the end how long this process should take you.

Nice big cutting there.

NEXT: trim of the filler.. so to speak anyway... reason for this in the next step.

Now you need to IDEALLY select a pair of internodes. (one internode on one side will be ok, just a two sided internode will root faster and grow slightly more vigorisly, something to note when selecting the cuttings

NEXT: My choosen Internode Pair.

thats two internodes in less that 3/4 of an inch. perfect.

NEXT: give the stem a sharp cut opposite the bottome internode.

this gives the roots ALOT of area to work with, they will root out both internodes and the sharp cut you just made.

Now QUICKLY this next part is fairly important, you want clean hands aside from what plant mater is shaved off.

NEXT: shave the stem slightly (more like gently scrap with your razor blade) between the two root internodes.

do this all the way around the stem without breakign off the internodes. very easy to do the stem will be very weak at this point.

NEXT: going for a DIP...

Make sure both Internodes are submerged slightly for a sec, i left it there so i could document, I ain't budda boys

NEXT: even coverage.

NEXT: not moving my thumb i place the clipping into the rock wool that is soft. the stem should be stiff enough not to bend.

there ya go, the hard part is done, ALL THIS up until now from PREPARING your stuff should take about 45-60 seconds. EACH CLIPPING.

you want to avoid as much air contact with the rooting cut tip as possiable to prevent air bubbles ( air bubbles in clones = stunted or dead plantss)

Before the Hair cut...

And the Hair cut..... few pics in a row... Will explain why after.

OK there are a few reason why I trim the leaves.

#1, Reduce risk of mildew (cloens get 100% humidity for a few days..)

#2, They root faster with them clipped.

-----the reason being is your tricking the plant into repairing its self rather then growing.

-----and the plants first step to repair is to grow more roots.

#3, FOOD, if they are damaged they are not gunna grow just yet, if they are not gunna grow the nuitrients IN THE LEAVES

themselfs will feed the clone almost until rooted out of the start cube (like nuit feed not water feed)

#4, based on #2 they won't start showing new growth until they have started to root.

----- so if you see the new fans forming and growing but no roots poppin out give the plug a good misting and it shoudl pop out

very very soon.

ok:

now this is were it gets cool..

For the first 4-6 days of the clones life it should be in NEAR 100% humidity and very temperate temperatures

so a low watt heating pad under the uncubator dome. set to low only raise if rock wool is cool to touch

shoudl be about room temp if not slightly higher

The first day in the dome the clones get misted about 4 times. and then recovered and back under the 18/6 light.

day two i'll mist them twice , day three i'll mist them once and i will continue this once a day misting of the clones until rooting and

will mist plugs if need be

after the first day take the cover off for about 20-30 mins until the clones start to sag...

put the cover back on and do it again the next day, by the time the 3 or 4th day comes aroud the clones shouldn't sag

or wilt with the dome off.. this is when you keep the dome off, when the vast majority don't sag at all after an hour or so

so once its out of its humidity zone i give it a day or so to air out a little ( NOT COMPLETELY ) and then they will be feed with

AT MOST 1/4 strenght nuits I suggest an 1/8 to start.

and the rest will be based on your strain.

when roots start to come out the bottom and the sides of the plug its time to slam it in some soil or in hte next size wool.

I use normal settle tap water unPH'd for my clones.

I find Phing doesn't make a diffrence for them.

you shouldn't really expect to see a really rooted out clone until about 10-12 days some will be there soooner

but don't expect it, don't inspect it often either, roots HATE Light.

If i forgot anything I will edit later, but my bong is calling

Enjoy Tokeage!

MLF

sadly i dont see any Lebanese cross in weed nor was it used to breed with any other strains, but i can only imagine its due to lack of seeds or accessibility to our great resources here in beirut.... I was hoping to see its capability, its potential in breeding and crossing and its power as cannabis plant - to do so, i acquired 200-300 seeds from a local grower here and I would like to distribute these seeds for free --

Can admin or moderator contact me and let me know wether its allowed to give it out in sort of competition for members to grow, breed and test it out ?

Only condition is that who ever gets these shld use the name Zinger Supreme lol the first 100% lebanese landrace marijuana

they are not feminized, they might be of different phenotypes but they are local lebanese cannabis seeds.

Hope to hear soon and hope you'r all interested !

Is it possible to turn an Auto into a Photoperiod? Is their a way to stop or delete the trait of autoflowering with any techniques or spray's?

As we all know stress affects female plants causing hermie tendancies.

Does the same apply to the male, if breeding with a stressed male does

he pass on the stress to new seed as in produce hermie off spring. One

could assume it does as its seems quite likely that the male would not

hermie and grow female parts.

Any info or papers to read on this subject would be helpful.

THX hunters and happy growing.

PEACE

Now here how it works

The difference is in hours of sun per week (hpw)

on a standard 12/12 cycle you get 84 hpw

on a 16/12 you get 96 hpw

That is an extra days worth of sun in 1 week. over the coarse of a 8 week strain you gain over a weeks extra growth

So here we go

I started with a 11l dish tub with holes in bottom.( fits in the grow cooler perfect) filled it with coco and perlite

I threw super critical and a mk ultra clones in. Then into the mini grow cooler.

Now to set timer

Monday at noon on

Tuesday at 4 am off

Tuesday at 4 pm on

Wednesday at 8 am off

Wednesday at 8 pm on

Thursday at noon off

Thursday at midnight on

Friday at 4 pm off

Saturday at 4 am on

Saturday at 8 pm off

Sunday at 8 am on

Sunday at midnight off

Now we see if my cycle works

http://themodern.farm/why/

I originally found this technique in a pdf on a torrent site.

The method involves plucking fan leave, thus simulating new growth and letting the light in to that new growth.

By doing this more bud sites are created.

This is first done when the plant is 6"/15cm tall.

The process is reapeated throught the veg and bloom stage.

Many people will have read that fan leaves should never be removed and will tell you this is so.

Times move and things change and new techniques are developed, many growers will tell you that thier method works for them so why change it .

I won't try and change anyone or the way they grow but if you like trying new things then this might be for you.

I love finding out about new lighting tecnologies and growing methods etc so when i saw this i got quite excited.

I am also happy to experiment,In some cases experimentation might not work but so far i have not had any bad luck like that.

I have a grow going using this technique and have taken pictures. I will try to post it soon but work has been hectic (i'm self employed).

Anyway i'm in it for the duration of my grow, which has been fimmed and defoliated several times so far.

Believe/don't believe choice is yours but I will be pleased to have all follow this grow.

I leave you with some links from ICMAG

First is a grow from "K33ftr33z" follow the entire grow you'll be amazed.

Second link is to the defoliation PDF which is a condensed version of the thread, this hilights the main techniques of this growing method.

Third link is from "vprising 909" who has also tried this technique.

Defoliation - hi yield technique - https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=174163

Download the "hi yield technique" PDF here - https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3885667&postcount=1381

Defoliation - the field test - by "vprising" - https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=176351&highlight=k33f

I hope you find these interesting.To get the best understanding read it fully, skimming will only give you half the story.

Peace hunters

Lams

A few people have asked about the CO2 bubblers I have in my little grow tent so here's exactly what the set up is, very cheap and I think successful looking at my girls in comparison to my last grow they are way way ahead but that could just be the difference in strains, these are Autos the others weren't.

In my set up I'm using:

2 x 1.5Liter drinks bottles

2 x Wine/Beer bubblers - Cost anything between $3-5 for two including the rubber bungs.

Contents:

1 x Cup Unrefined sugar

Half teaspoon Bakers Yeast, apparently brewers yeast is even better and last a bit longer as mine only produce bubbles well for three days before I either add more sugar or a freshmix completely.

Half teaspoon baking soda to speed up process a little.

Empty and clean your bottles, you can use bigger if you like just up the ingredients a bit, pour in 1 x cups of unrefined sugar, you can use standard white but I just happen to use unrefined anyway so it was to hand.

Then pour in some warm NOT hot water fill 2/3rds, you must leave room at the top for expansion or they can overspill !!!

Place top back on and shake furiously till sugar is pretty much dissolved in water, then remove top and add your yeast and baking soda, put top back on and shake like mad again.

Voila, your mix is ready, now just put the bungs in bottle tops and put bubblers in the bung holes, fill one side of plastic bubbles with water and you'll be able to see exactly how often it produces bubbles of CO2.

Mine normally start produciing within 3-4 hours and then bubble every 5-15, faster at first and then slowing down, once they slowed right down just repeat the whole exercise again or just top up with more sugar.

I tend to do a completely fresh set up otherwise it produces bubbles but nowhere near the same rate.

I'm doing my nutes change today and have now got another two bottle, which I now intend to hang above the plants, one in each corner as CO2 is heavy than oxygen so drops down, ideally you want it dropping onto your plants.

There are many other ways to use CO2 from tiny little cannisters 5-10grams right up to huge great cyclinders with hundreds of liters but for most home/small growers the method described above is cheap and effective, the only problem is you have no real control over exactly how much CO2 is being released nor do you know exactly how much it's producing, unless you get a CO2 meter.

Here's my set up with four bottles hanging one in each corner.

Hope this helps,

Toaor

If you look at the edges of a cannabis seed, you'll notice that there's a seam all the way around, and that it's more pronounced on one side - like a ridge.

This ridge comes off quite easily and then allows the cannabis seeds to pop right out of their shells with ease.

Scarification

Grip the cannabis seed between your thumb and forefinger with the ridge side up, then using the sharp edge of a small pocket-knife or paring knife, very gently scrape at a 90 degree angle across the ridge and you'll see it come right off, exposing a slight opening along the edge of the cannabis seed.

Take extra care not to squeeze the cannabis seed at all, but spin it around to finish scraping the other end of the ridge [on the same side] Cannabis seeds can take anywhere between 12 hours and 3 weeks to germinate.

Most cannabis seeds that do not germinate under good germination/grow conditions are considered non-viable seeds. The 4 main reasons why a cannabis seed is not viable is as follows. [This method is not recommended for first time growers]

[1]The cannabis seed has been damaged.

[2]The cannabis seed is immature.

[3]The cannabis seed is too old.

[4]The cannabis seed can not absorb water.

Sometimes 3 and 4 go hand in hand.

If a cannabis seed does not pop, then most people chuck the cannabis seed.

Here is method to help you germinate seeds that may still be viable but are having trouble germinating.

The process is called Scuffing. Dig up your cannabis seeds that have not germinated [wait at least 3 weeks].

Get a small box [match box is good] Put sand paper into the box. Put cannabis seeds into the box. Shake around for 30 seconds to 1 minute.

The sand paper will wear down the seed coat, making it easier for the seed coat to absorb water and split open.

Seed Prep - Then put the cannabis seed into a small container of room temperature filtered/distilled water without any additives for about 18 to 24 hours. Next gently transfer your pre-soaked cannabis seeds to a pair of wet paper towels [pre-warmed to room temperature], maybe in a large tupperware-like covered container.

Misting the paper towels daily so it stays nice and damp [but without any standing water puddles in the folds of the towels]. Don't let the towels get too cold, because the wet paper towels will always get chilly fast, so they must be kept in a constantly warm area [but dark].

A heating pad may be required to maintain 78°F to 80°F | 25.5°C to 26.5°C throughout germination.

We use a regular heating pad set on low, covered with a light towel to buffer the heat, and on a timer, set to go on and off every half-hour.

Make sure they are kept in a very temperature stable area. We use a digital temp gauge, the kind that is not expensive and have a probe on the end of a wire, so you can place the probe right into the wet paper towels. [note: place seeds on top of the fridge if you don’t have a rootmat]

Sprouting - Cannabis seeds should sprout within a few days; when they do, they must be transferred to the medium with great care when the taproot has come out about 0.25 inch to 0.5 inch | 6 mm to 12.5 mm. We find that a 0.5 inch | 12.5 mm tap root seems to be the best.

When it's much shorter, they tend to get shocked and die easier, and if it's much longer, there's more risk of damage.

They are very delicate at this stage; sprouted cannabis seeds can be killed by rough handling, damaging the tap root, or if the soil or medium they're put into has not been properly prepared in advance to the right moisture and temp.

If you're using a soil mix, We usually add about 25% perlite and 25% vermiculite to 50% pre-sterilized Supersoil.

Using a pencil or something to prepare a hole for your seedling, and lower it in with the taproot down first and the cannabis seed end up.

Gently pack or fill in the hole fairly loosely around the taproot, covering the top of the seed by about 0.25 | 6 mm , and we water them with an eyedropper or a spray bottle set on mist.

Post germination - Now you'll want to place them under fluorescent lighting about 4 inches to 6 inches | 10 cm to 15 cm away and mist them down daily.

Continue to ensure they are kept warm enough, because when the wet medium cools off at night down toward 60°F | 15.5°C it can shock and slow them down or possibly even kill them.

How to germinate seeds in soil

Here is a method of germinating cannabis seeds that does not resort to paper towels or plastic bags, and the risk of rot these methods bring.

Place cannabis seeds in a bowl, and fill the bowl with room temperature tap water. Cover the bowl with card or newspaper and place in a cupboard overnight [12 to 15 hours].

Saturate the soil in your prepared pots with water, then create a small circular depression in the center of the pot.

Place each cannabis seed in its own pot, in the center of the depression, pointed tip down. Cover the soil over the cannabis seed, so that is no more than 0.125 inch to 0.25 inch | 3 mm to 6 mm deep. Repeat with all cannabis seeds.

Leave sown cannabis seeds for six hours in darkness, then switch on your lights and leave them on. The latest time we used this method, we got 100% germination, and seedlings began erupting from the soil within two days.

All viable cannabis seeds should germinate.

Seed germination in rockwool

Get a jar 500ml | 16oz and fill with distilled water. Than add a 2 to 3 drops of superthrive and shake well.

Get an aquarium pump and put an air stone in the jar to keep the water aerated. Drop in your cannabis seeds.

Check your cannabis seeds every 6 hours for cracking. Viable cannabis seeds will crack within 2 to 3 days at most.

Then Pre-soak the rockwool cubes with 1/4 strength Maxicrop solution. Gently place the cracked cannabis seeds 0.125 inch | 3 mm deep into rockwool cubes.

Stick a toothpick in next to cannabis seed hole and gently "lever" toward the cannabis seed to ensure it is in full contact with rockwool.

Place the cubes in a tray and cover it with humidity dome.

Now place the tray under 2 to 4 foot of lights. Remove the dome once the cannabis seeds sprout.

Soil germination problems

You ever wonder why those seeds don’t germinate? Here are some things that might stop your cannabis seeds from germinating in soil!

Too Wet

Cannabis seeds need to be damp, not wet for germination. Excess water prevents oxygen getting to the seed. Poorly drained soils may also cause soil fungus diseases. The condition of wet soils may be improved by adding perlite. which will aerate your soil.

Too Dry

A certain amount of water is essential for germination, so maintaining a constant soil moisture during the germination period is vital, cover containers with glass or glad wrap to prevent you soil drying out.

Too Hot

High temperatures result in excessive soil desiccation and injury to cannabis seeds and seedlings.

Too Cold

Cold temperatures can kill seedlings and prevent germination. Cool temperatures can result in slow, un-even germination, and attack by soil diseases. You may want to start your cannabis seeds indoors, before outplanting. Make sure planting dose not done too early, when it is stll cold and there is a frost hazard.

Planting Too Deep

This will result in delayed emergence. Cannabis seeds may not be able to grow enough to reach the surface on the limited food storage within the cannabis seed. Soil temperature is also lower with depth. Plant your cannabis seed 0.5 inch to 1 inch | 12.5 mm to 25 mm down for best results.

Planting cannabis seeds Too Shallow

If you plant your cannabis seeds to shallow the cannabis seeds can dry out.

Soil Too Firm

Making your soil mix to firm can prevent oxygen getting to your cannabis seeds also drainage is also affected.

Soil Too Loose

Soil which is too loose results in too much air surrounding the cannabis seed, and they will not absorb moisture and will most likely dry out.

Soil fungus

Cannabis seeds may root or seedlings fall over. Overwatering, poor drainage and lack of aeration will increase the likelihood of this occurring. Plant cannabis seeds in sterilized potting mix, and make sure you containers are clean.

Non Viable cannabis seeds

If your cannabis seeds have not been stored correctly they can deteriorate. Look for dark brown cannbis seeds. Avoid and light colored or whitish cannabis seeds as they are not mature.

Copied & pasted from - http://www.seedfairy.com/germination.html

Peace Lams

Hello Green House Seed Co. Community! I am MultiTech and I hope to meet many new, experienced and tradesman in my stay here! Saludos a todos!

  I thought I would post a quick few snaps of my grow this time round. It is not Green House Seed Genetics But I am currently waiting to receive Kalashnikova, Afgooey, FlowerBomb, Pure Kush, Kings Kush and Lemon Skunk! I will keep everyone up to date with these new genetics that I will be getting, most certainly and hope you are able to get a good idea as to different techniques that I use in order to get the results I am looking for for that particular grow.  Even if you just smile, than I did what I aim to do, keep things simple while bringing in more curiosity and higher education, both on your end and mine as well.   I will be unavailable after this current grow which current is on week 6 *day 46 and has 5 weeks, 31-47 days left to go, roughly. I hope you enjoy her journey as much as I do.  Saludos!

   I have been growing this strain now for 3 years (sativa) and found her while hiking along through the Sierra Madres in Mexico for a couple years (not in field but 7 solo plants seeding and dying at the peak of the Sonoran Mnts. Local natives do not recognize the strain). I have grown her indoor, outdoor, greenhouse, organic, hydro (aeroponics, ebb n' flow, DWC and NFT.)
 

This round she germinated between two paper towels moistened with tap water (ppm 106; Ph 6.0). Started outdoors in low fert soil from Guadalajara and watered with RO water Ph 6.0. 
 

  Grew for 18 days. FIM after second set of true leaves, three stream, loli-popped, LST, HST, Scrog, DeScrog. Basically super cropped her for those familiar with the term. After 18 days of growth, rinsed roots and transferred indoor to hydro ebb n' flow system. Volcanic Rock as medium, General Hydroponics Flora Series with koolbloom, Floralicious, rapid start and FloraBlend additives. RH - 75% for grow down to 55% for flowering) I normally mix my own nutrients with my recipe but had to keep in my small budget this round. 

  Scrogged 3rd day after transition to hydro. Started with 4 32w 6500k t8 fluorescent (128w approx 10,000 lumen) until shock relaxed. Added 8 32w 2700k CFLs for a total of 384w and roughly 29,000 lumen. Changed to 400w HPS lamp for flower with 4 32w 6500k fluorescents posted under canopy for full penetration of canopy (58000 lumen roughly) scrog is 1m X 3/4 meters. Have mini-split air conditioning set to 24c, one fan for air circulation above canopy with a/c. Nute temp maintained at 24c with Ph 5.5 - 5.8.

  In the three years and 20 grows with this gal, I have not had her hermi up on me even once. She takes whatever you throw at her and always asks for more! She is a pleaser! 

  Here are her photos this round. I only posted the basics so please let me know any questions, curiosities or just commentary. My reflectors I have out of most photos aside from two.
 

  She is just starting week 6 of flower out of 10 weeks to 11 depending on the type of flower maturity that I look for. Also I add the lighting under the canopy after removing the scrog at start of week 5. (I only use scrog to train during stretching into week 4 then remove. (Thicker gage String is easy to assemble and slide out without stressing the plant.) will update next week. 

Live...Love...Learn...

Saludos!

I fast her for 15 hours in the start of week 6 and then deliver PPM 1100 , EC 2.2 Hanna( *.5)  nutrient solution with RO.  She kicks into overdrive afterwards.

I will update on day week 7 day 49.  I hope you enjoy my techniques and that you may try something out in the future.  I am looking forward to your comments.

Saludos!

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Since the inception of agriculture, mankind has been struggling against the constant predatory aspect of nature trying to eat the crop first. Animals and the elements are problems faced by outdoor growers, however everyone is put to battle with bugs at some point or another. Pests are a constant threat to any grower be it farm crops, a vegetable garden, or growing marijuana. Parasitic insects have been evolving for millions of years to infest, devour, and destroy plant matter in order to ensure their own proliferating survival. . . . and they're professionals. This thread will focus on prevention, identification and eradication of blights afflicting marijuana growers today.

PREVENTION

It has been said over and over that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure and I cannot reiterate this maxim enough. Prevent outbreak first and foremost then treat if necessary. Basic cleanliness can help on a massive scale to ensure you never walk up to your garden to have a flood of pests greet you. You work hard and spend harder earned money to produce a crop of smoke, don't risk creating a bug buffet by casual laziness. The following are the major rules to follow in basic pest and disease prevention.

Always

-Use compost that has been processed properly. A medium heated to 140F/60C will kill larvae, eggs and fungus that is residing there. Cutworms eggs are very common in manure and compost, the marijuana plant has no defense against cutworms rampaging through its roots. When properly composted, both mediums reach these temperatures. Check for the seal of a regulating authority certifying the product. Guarantees are nice to see as well.

-Do not use mulch. This easy-accessible, moist, shaded medium is a perfect retreat for incoming pests and fungus. The risk isn't worthwhile.

-Keep outdoor tools outside, and indoor tools inside. If there are parasites in either garden, there will be hitchhiking mary jane munchers clinging to them. Tools used for regular yard work should always be sterilized if brought indoors. Rubbing alcohol, soap and water, or a quick pass with a handheld torch will accomplish this nicely.

Outdoors

-Spray regularly with a pesticide targeted at worms and mites. Returning with the regularity necessary to eradicate an infestation is not usually possible. Check the surrounding area for presence of pests and treat preventively. Spraying should commence in early to mid-summer. This is when the larvae of most pests are becoming fully mobile and airborne. Pesticide should be reapplied every few weeks.

-Companion planting is useful as it discourages insect populations. Transplanting foliage with similar characteristics to cannabis will spread out incoming populations of insects allowing the predatory nature of the outdoors to take its course. Additionally, transplanted companion plants will likely become infected prior to your plants giving you the opportunity to halt their spread before it touches your bud. Please, use common sense and inspect companions before transplanting them. Companion planting is useless indoors as bugs have nowhere else to go.

Indoors

-Keep your growroom a closed space in order to control the environment

-Forced air circulation is one of your chief weapons against bugs. Powerful ventilation ensures spores and smaller flying insects do not have opportunity to proliferate. Winds created by oscillating fans make it difficult for bugs to hold on or set up nests.

-You should regard outdoor shoes as radioactive inside your growroom. They are easily the most disease and pest infested item of clothing you own.

-Wash your hands! Hands are dirty, and you will be coming in direct contact with your bud. Don't come back from a hike in the woods and walk into your growroom. Don't play with your dog, check your vegetable garden and walk into the holiest of holies. Wash up!

-Sweep always, mop often, keep debris off your medium. Do not provide condo's to incoming insects, a broom is far cheaper than pesticide.

-If your air intake comes from outside, install a filter designed for heating and cooling systems. These commercial filters are designed to keep pests and disease outside.

Healthy plants will be the best defense you can possibly have. Often marijuana grows quickly enough to outpace pests, especially when healthy.

IDENTIFICATION AND TREATMENT

No matter the preventative measures you engage in, a pest population will infiltrate your crop eventually. For you growers with larger gardens, keep your eyes on weak plants! Pests infect one plant first, build up numbers and launch an offensive on every nearby edible object. I once was visiting a compatriot's grow underneath a 4 season porch with 24 plants. The plants on the left were doing very well, but the farther to the right the garden went, the more destroyed his crop had become. Some species of boring worm had successfully attacked a sick plant in a corner. When he discovered the infiltration point, the plant was essentially dead where it stood, worms crawling through almost the entirety of its stalks. From that plant, the worms spread quickly enough to destroy 15 of his 24 plants. Most insects lay thousands of eggs during their lifespan of weeks. If ten pests lay 100 eggs and their offspring each lay 100 eggs, your pest population has jumped from 10 to 100,000. This can occur in DAYS. Pay special attention to sickly plants, the evolutionary process dictates vulnerability to preying organisms. Men greater and wiser than I have adamantly stated that using chemicals on plants destined to be inhaled should ALWAYS be used as a last resort. Commercial and chemical pesticide have the creatures they eradicate listed on the label. Remember if you do choose to use chemicals that you will be lighting this stuff on fire and inhaling the smoke. If you have to use a nuke, allow enough time for the radiation to die down capeesh? Use these long before harvest. This article will focus on organic and non-toxic pest control.

There are four methods you can employ to combat pests.

-Repression: If the means to exterminate your particular bug isn't immediately available, there are usually countermeasures you can take to slow infestations or decrease numbers of current pests. Taking these countermeasures during treatment further increases the effectiveness of the method you choose to utilize.

-Predators: The internet has opened up the world to the grower for specific predatory insects that will dine or destroy others voraciously. Most predators identified in this article are so specialized the specific pest is completely defenseless.

-Manual removal: Exactly what it sounds like. Picking the things off, crushing eggs, removing branches that have colonies in place. If caught early enough, manual removal can control pests sufficiently they will not fully infest your plants.

-Spray: When applying pesticide in a spray, ensure you use a spreader sticker. This is any type emulsifier that aids the pesticide in sticking to the leaves and commercial products are readily available for purchase. When your plant is budding this is especially necessary because the leaves of your plants are developing coatings of resin that will shed what you are spraying. If not purchasing a product, a teaspoon of dish soap per gallon of water will work fine. Jorge Cervantes tells us that any type of spray applied to plants will slow its growth temporarily as it will clog the stomata on the underside of leaves. Spraying water 1-2 days after application of a spray can help to clear stomata and aid the plant in resuming vigorous growth.

Lets get to the beasts shall we? The prevention sections will be all but useless to the outdoor gardener, however the treatments will be equally effective. Pests are listed alphabetically and predators are identified by exact species to avoid any confusion.

Copied and pasteded from - http://www.420magazine.com/forums/problems-pests-disease-control/156568-guide-identifying-your-pests.html

Peace Lams

1way I need help and a 2nd way id like to talk and learn npk values.

1st

I need help.

im using similar products to yara and im going to post oics at the end.

Now npk 6.12.36 equals 1.2.3 it baffles me and messing with my calculations. am i right to think were just rounding off numbers? or is it a mixed calculation of multiple ingedients. Im asking does the calculation total add all of the elements? 

see how im messing up?

luckily most products show the smaller npk values and I found them on here.

so i already got 1 and it is

Buddy

npk 6.12.36 equaling 1.2.3 +mg +te I can give % of all butim just going to write my options here now.

20.20.20 equals 2.2.2

18.18.18 equals 1.1.1. "hence me thinking rounding numbe off in comparisment to the 20.20.20

20.8.8 equals 3.1.1 "im thinking this."

13.40.13 equals 1.3.1

5.0.0 "not sure it a N boost."

0.0.51 soluble sulphate or potash.

yara mag nitrate 11.0.0 9% mag 15% oxide.

think theres more options.

I need a ph down too. heres some pics. please tell me what you recommend I use as a veg and take into account i have the 1.2.3 buddy I will be using in flower.

im thinking the I could just use the yaraliva yara mag alone with the 1.2.3 

but what you think about

20.8.8 bein 3.1.1

magnesium nitrate

11.0.0

and then the buddy

1.2.3

and may be

potash

0.0.51?

im thinking go with ppms and ec.

kind of works like yara kristalon with yara calcinit but more suited due to me not needing the calcium.

also ha see how that 20.8.8 ratio equaled 3.1.1? why not 2.1.1? or am i missing something?

I agged my water statistics too.

please help. I got about a week to work out what to do.

im thinking 3.1.1 as veg. add lil 1.2.3 if needed but deffo start adding the 1.2.3 and reducing the 3.1.1 or you think i could run 3.1.1 all way threw and add 1.2.3 as a pk boost?

TALK TO ME BABBYS.

This is the direct link (https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-the-perfect-ph-value-for-a-cannabis-plant-n87)

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In the world of gardening, pH both affects and is affected by everything.

Indeed, the entire process of growing plants is a study in the physical dance of pH balance.

The plant itself has a pH identity, with some plants being more acidic and others more alkaline, the water of different regions has a pH identity that is determined by a variety of environmental factors, and the soil of various regions also has a pH identity.

So, how does the gardener master this dance of acid/alkaline polarity to bring forth a bountiful crop? The first step is gaining a basic understanding of pH, the needs of the particular crop, and the tools at hand to provide the optimum environment for that plant to prosper.

While the physics of pH can indeed be complicated, they don't have to be. When preparing to grow the Cannabis Plant, it can comfort the grower to remember that cannabis is a hearty herb that has historically been considered a weed in horticultural circles. The cannabis plant wants to live, and will do its best to do so.

The pH scale runs from 1 to 11, with lower numbers being acidic and higher numbers being alkaline. The cannabis plant prefers a pH environment of 5.5 to 6.5. When the pH environment rises in alkalinity above 7.5, the roots are not able to consume the available iron, copper, zinc, manganese, and boron ions in their vicinity, and when the pH lowers into acidity to less than 6 the roots are not able to access phosphoric acid, calcium, and magnesium because they lose their solubility. If the pH drops to between 5 to 3 with temperatures above 26 degrees Celsius fungal diseases become a threat to the plant.

Soil culture and pH
Savvy gardeners know that the success of their crop always starts with the condition of their soil. Sandy soils are acidic in nature, clay soils are alkaline. Woodland soil usually falls right in the middle, and is referred to as loam.

One should remember, however, that since woodland soil is created by the process of decay of leaves, bark, and other organic debris, the top soil that is involved in this process will tend towards acidity. It is always best to conduct a simple pH test to determine the identity of the soil, and one's water as well.

Growers of cannabis have praised the results of growing their crops in sandy loam soil, as the sand encourages good drainage and allows the roots to easily grow, while the loamy soil is rich in nutrients and holds water.

Gardens with inherent clay soils are usually rich in nutrients, but need to be amended to create the conditions that will allow the plants to access those nutrients, as well as encourage roots to easily penetrate that tight clay. Organic methods of amending alkaline clay soil can be as simple as mixing leaves, chopped or ground pine needles, coffee grounds, and the contents of tea bags into the soil, but remember that these organic methods should be done in advance. It would be optimal to use this strategy of soil amendment starting the winter before planting to allow the amendments to decay and compost, and settle into the soil, making their pH adjustments. A quicker adjustment is made by mixing compost and sand into the soil.

Sandy soil will provide great drainage, but has no ability to hold nutrients, so gardeners must amend this soil with a high quality compost to achieve the coveted sandy loam.

Hydroponic Gardening and pH
Hydroponic systems are designed to simplify the process of growing one's crop. The grower checks their pH at least twice a day, and is able to quickly make adjustments. A basic pH of 6.0 will allow the plants to ebb and flow between 5.5 and 6.5.

Reading and Feeding the Plant
Gardeners of both indoor and outdoor crops should remember that the pH of their growing medium naturally changes as the plants consume their nutrients. This is the challenge of the pH dance.

Experienced gardeners learn to read their plants, and can tell what they need by indicators such as the color of the leaves, the stance of the plant, and the plant's growth pattern. Yellow leaves indicate a lack of iron, indicating alkalinity, and acidic conditions will create burn spots on the leaves and a wilting stance.

The main objective is making sure that the feminized cannabis plant has the necessary nutrients. Chelated plant food is chemically designed to be available to plants, and will assist the gardener throughout the ups and downs of the pH.

I am listing a couple of mixes, one is a variety that I made and the other is very similar using different ingredients that break down slower. You can mix and use my recipe immediately as the ingredients are more readily available to the plant than the second, which requires(or is recommended) composting before it's use. The second recipe is used by a very well known grower and breeder, T.G.A. Subcool, a member of the High Times Hall of Fame.

Both mixes are designed so that all you have to do is add water throughout the entire grow cycle, no matter the length. These mixes have enough ingredients to last long enough that it is highly recommended you compost and reuse it a second time, but the decision to do that can be up to you depending on your ability to compost or you would just rather spend more money on a fresh mix everytime to be absolutely sure you don't have any problems. Although not required, using a low PPM(such as RO), ph adjusted water is always best but there are ingredients in the mix specifically to combat any water problems so it isn't necessary.

My recipe;

Today, 04:07 PM

Hi everyone I am a first time grower in SA and planted around end August start of October 2015. I am at 150 days of vegetative growth and now first signs of flowering have appeared this week I have a few photo updates on veg state 2 weeks ago and currently. This is from 2 weeks ago:

First image is two of the first planted one has purple stem and started signs of flowering first, the other is same size and looking healthy. The rectangular pot is all the seeds found in some Red Swazi about 20 plants growing together all sprouted by mistake and I am going with it! Last pot is planted at end October Sour Diesel which has shot up as tall as my marijuana forest in 2 months. I will take current plat photos and post today. Others are photos of purple stem (don't know strain :/) and some of other. I keep them on the chairs because there are tiny green grasshoppers that love my bud leaves they look juicy don't they!

Previously during flowering stage used Seagro plant nutrients very Eco friendly and Organic seaweed base NPK and micro nutes. I ran out of this and purchased more today had 200ml and used 5ml per liter every 36 hours. I like this fert because it even states it doesn't burn plant if mixed over ratio.

Also got some guano organic fertilizer tea which smells like hydrogen sulphide (egg-fart) mixing 15ml per 1liter bi-daily 48hours.

Been working hard only ladies, let me know how I am doing and open for comments and suggestions.

Was thinking about force flowering at this stage with a perforated black shadow net?

I'll start out by asking the main question and that is how many of you have ever tried a flowering light cycle that differed from 12/12 (12 hours on, 12 hours off) continuously throughout the entire cycle?

I personally have experimented with many different cycles from 12/12 to duplicating a specific latitude daily daylight hours to trying crazy experiments such as 24/24, 24/12, 18/18, 18/12 and others.

I have a theory that one of the causes of hermaphrodites is the use of a continuous 12/12 light cycle throughout the flowering period, which in 95% of the strains grown today, is very unnatural and doesn't duplicate nature are all. All over the world no matter what your latitude, the natural daylight cycle differs almost daily with each day getting shorter and shorter.

I have grown clones from the exact same mother plant, from many different strains and mother plants, both indoors with a convention 12/12 cycle throughout the flowering cycle, with a lighting schedule that duplicates a natural cycle that decreases daily(or every few days depending on your timers ability) and outdoors. In my experience I have found that a clone grown with a 12/12 that would develop hermies, didn't develop them using a more natural decreasing daylight period indoors or out. One other thing I have noticed in my own experience is that sativa dominant plants that came from equatorial strains are far less likely to have hermies than indica dominant or hybrid strains, indoors, when grown under a 12/12 continuous cycle and I believe that's because strains developed from strains that came from lower latitudes have a natural daily daylight variance that is closer to 12/12, where the time between the longest and shortest day only differs by minutes than strains that came from higher latitude strains, where the difference between the longest and shortest days can vary by hours.

One of the ways to make a female plant produce it's own seeds, which are usually feminized, is through a process called rodelization, which is basically stressing a plant using various methods to induce its natural ability to fertilize itself as a natural survival mechanism. One of the natural ways this happens and the easiest way I have found to make a female fertilize herself is by using light stress. In nature, a plant produces its own pollen when it has grown for a long time without being fertilized because it thinks it isn't going to be fertilized. In my opinion this is almost exactly what every person is doing when they use a 12/12 continuous light cycle. As most would agree, most hermies pop out later in the cycle and I think it is because the plant gets stressed under a 12/12 continuous cycle. My theory is supported by the fact that the same exact clones grown using a decreasing light schedule or outdoors, did not produce any hermies when they did under a 12/12 continuous cycle. To add some additional evidence, I personally have never had a plant have hermies outdoors, ever, and I know for a fact that I have grown a lot of seeds that either came from a plant I grew that produced it's own S1's or they were feminized seeds, that most people argue are more likely to have hermies, and didn't when grown outdoors.

To sum all this up, my theory is that most hermies are cause by the stress caused by using a continuous 12/12 light cycle, which is totally unnatural, thus stressing the plants causing them to produce hermies and that by simply changing your light cycle to a more natural one that decreases over time, you will dramatically reduce if not eliminate any hermie problems you may have.

So I would like to know if anyone else has also done any experiments like this or if you have done other similar things like grown the same clone indoors and out and indoors you had hermies but outdoors you didn't. Have you ever had a plant produce hermies outdoors and can you say 100% that you are certain it wasn't possibly pollinated by something someone else was growing nearby, that you didn't know about? If you have, please share you experience. If you haven't but have reason and evidence to show something different than by all means please share because as I stated, this is only a theory I have that so far my evidence and experience has shown to be probable. I haven't been able to find to many other people that don't use anything other than a continuous 12/12 cycle and I can't believe that I am the only one that has thought of this before, so hopefully we can get some additional input on this from others.

Since then i kept an eye on EC meters once in a while and heard that Bluelab was considered to be The Benz among the gear. recently they introduced the truncheonette and that is a game changer 1 5 year guarantee, water proof, no need to calibrate anything automatic calculöation of temperature + ph level gives you the right info within a few seconds. I bought it last week and it works like a charme. Put it inside the ph adjusted/right temperature water with the amount of fertilizers you think is right, stick that huge (it looks like a pen, but in reality the thing is HUGE) long tube inside the pot and watch the BLUE LED go up + down blinking for a while- It did take about 10 to 15 seconds till the correct level was shown - first with a steady blue Light, then it switches off - so make sure you remember the exact spot, where the light was. After a few times you will probably get an idea what number is where (or if youhave sharp eyes you can read the numbers)

No need to switch it on or off just stick it inside and BINGO-Job done.

As easy + fool proof as it gets. Costs twice as much as a cheap Ec meter but if you buy cheap you buy twice and get a lot of anger + frustration in return.

This is smooth sailing compared to a regular EC Meter

Link :https://www.bluelab.com/products/type/meters/truncheon-nutrient-meter.aspx