So they are very small, late starters and I figured I have nothing to loose so lets super crop them. Well it worked great and I see daily progress. This branch was a mistake and it broke. I've taped it and it's been 3 days now and it looks so sad. 

Here's my Question:

IS SHE TOO FAR GONE? DO I NEED TO CLIP IT OR CAN SHE COME BACK? 

It's one of the main branches too, UGH BUMMER!

Thanks,

MKM

             I just recently  came across this amazing idea of growing in a CPU case and decide to make a wooden box of a slightly bigger size than a CPU case. Here's the size and also a few  pictures of the box for an idea. 

75x25x55 cm in size

Please HELP me with choosing the lights for this setup. As i want to use LED Grow lights. I WANT TO KNOW WHAT AMOUNT OF POWER DOES THE LED NEED TO HAVE FOR THIS SET UP? at present i used an 18W led with red an blue. But it seemed to be growing slowly. i switched to a normal 60W yellow light bulb and the process is quite faster. Since its too hot i cant have it for long. I want to get back to LED but i want to know what power should i go in for.

It would be much appreciated if anyone could give numbers rather than a formula.

I have decided to Grow with Hydroponics in that brown container with a 3.5" net pot in the middle. Also would that container be enough for 1.5 feet tall plant?(i cant contain 4 liters of water) That little light bulb is just for the picture its not the actual light i used that's just for the picture before the set up.

I'm interested to see if there's a way to reduce or remove the condensation from my grow tent. Without doing it by hand with a towel every day. 

I'm in week two of 12/12 cycle,  lights on at night off thru the day, so I'm keen to get on top it early. 

It's just going into the cold part of the year so temps are fluctuating between 05-25 Celsius. 

This is the first time I have ran the room in the cold weather normally I run it earlier and have issues with over temps.

Roo78:-? 

Many thanks

Rogerz

Yapabildiğim işler yalnızca 25 günde bu kadar büyüyor, işin ne olduğunu bilmiyorum, çok daha hızlı büyümek için ne yapabilirim? Bu blogda yeniyim, lütfen bu durumu düzeltmek için bana yardım et. 

Hepinize teşekkür ederim!

basically my problem is this I'm a new grower n I've got two friends who've grown for years now one is telling me if I don't get drip trays I can't possibly get good weed whereas my other friend says I don't need to worry about them can anybody shed some light? thanks 

I dont have the funds to go buy vinly tubing at the moment to see if that will fix it either... there is alot of stress in the black tube and hence the tie off with hemp string to hold it in shape....

the second photo is of the shear volume differance I will have from switching from a 5x5 inch rail to 5 gallon buckets.... gonna almost b true aero... no dirt no medium what so ever just air and nute solution

Hello everybody. I am quite new to this comunity and i gotta admit is lovely here and welcoming, so i decided to start doing my part right away.

I want to represent my design of CO2 generator. I have been using two types of CO2 generators and i gonna discus both of them. Would try to keep the post clean and simple so it be understandable by everybody.

This two methods are nothing new in cannabis growers nor in the fishkeepers

Alright the two methods are:

1. Baking powder combined with citric acid lime juice and water

This method is chip to do the reaction is fast and more CO2 is released at the time but shortlasting. Perfect for small growing rooms

2. Yeast combined with sugar water and baking powder

Ths method is long lasting and it can also be setup on how the reaction should go. It means more yiest more powerfull reaction and more CO2 at the time or more sugar for long lastiong reaction

Will go through all the recipes now and how to do the reaction chamber as i call it.

The Reaction Chamber

Bassily the reaction chamber in both of the generators are the same only the ingridiens are different.

Every body can improvise and make their own type of design for generator but at he end you wil edn up close to this look :

This two generators are bassicly the same thing but in the one made of glass bottle is with two after chambers so i can chose where the co2 will go.

Ok now i will describe the acctual generator :

1.Reaction Chamber

2.Tubing

3.After chamber

4.Ingrediens for the reaction wehre CO2 is the product

5.CO2

6.H2O

7.CO2

What basicly the after chamber is you may ask, that is just so you can see if the reaction is stil going and if there is yet CO2 to be produced.

The two types of recipes for CO2 reaction

1. The baking powder reaction is made with 5 tablespoons of baking powder on 5 table spoons with powerfull acid or lime and 1dl of water. ( recipe may vary if you already have you own recipe please share)

2. The yiest reaction is made:

• Put 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of yeast into the bottle with about a cup of warm water (bread yeast is fine). Some people have theorized that champaign or wine yeast should last longer (due to its ability to tolerate the alcohol generated from the brewing process), but recent tests reported on the net have not indicated any difference.
  
• Shake to mix the yeast well.
  
• Add water to bring the solution up to 3/4 of the bottle.
  
• Add 1 to 2 cups of sugar and shake well. The amount of yeast and sugar will determine the rate and duration of CO2 generation. More yeast will result in stronger CO2 production, but will exhaust the sugar quicker. Using 1/4 teaspoon of yeast and 2 cups of sugar will result in CO2 production for about 4 to 5 weeks.
  
• In areas with soft water, some people recommend adding a teaspoon of baking soda to buffer the water and extend the life of the solution (prevent the acid formed by the brewing action from destroying the yeast prematurely).
  

This recipe is copy-pasted from http://www.cichlid-f...les/diy_co2.php.

And because is for fishtanks you would want to make the reaction a litle bit more powerfull with adding more yiest because the CO2 in the growing room is lost easily during the fans that are sucking the air out and the fans inside:)

Hope i got it all clear and hope i did not spread everywhere i was trying to keep my thought in one line If you have any questions, comments or arguments they are more then welcome.

Peace

I've got a new set up going and wondered if the knowledgeable crowd would mind casting their eyes over my bits and giving any advice that springs to mind.

The plants are from Greenhouse Seeds and are first generation clones selected from the previous seed grown crop.

Strains are 2 AMS and 2 Super Critical. They are currently in week four of the flower cycle

1.2m x 1.2m x 2m BudBox tent

Wilma four 18 litre pot dripper system with clay pebbles - the clones were aeroponically propagated, once long roots had grown I transplanted them straight into pebbles, so there is no rockwool. The timings are set for 15mins on 30 mins off all the time light is on.

Gavita Pro 1000 Light

6 inch RVK extracter, constant passive intake of fresh air. Temps between 21-26, humidity 20 - 60.

Nutrients and additives-

Flora Grow

Flora Micro

Flora Bloom

GHE Bio Bloom

Ferro Enzyme Plus

And a spinkle of Rise and Shine's Unity, Mirco Organisms and Bacillus

Following the greenhouse three flush method

Put a No Mercy CO2 tablet into the tank a few times a week

The EC is kept at 1.9 and the Ph at 5.9

Tank temperature 20 degrees.

All the plants are happy green and flowering nicely, everything looks wonderful, but could they be more so?!

Should I use any more additives etc, there are so many out there that my head spins when I start looking at them, and as I read the descriptions I think I want them all!

Massive Appreciation As Ever,

Peace out & Nighty night

My question for you all growers, is that i want to know how to make a small cone greenhouse in a swamp.Shortly, The greenhouse is where there are blueberries growing and theres alot of moisture and it all is taking place in a pine forest

My idea is to put 5-10 plants+ some outdoor just for fun and testing purpouses in natural swamp soil, But the main idea is, how to build that place in the swamp? 

The small greenhouse greenhouse(Round radius-3m):

my idea is to use natural stuff, firstly dig 20cm around the tree, then make a cone skeleton against the tree with some long branches ,  After that i will but plastic over it all, so it gets sun and maintains heat, the wall bottoms I will cover with mud and green moss+blueberry plants. (making 2-3hours, 2 people job)

i will need: Axe, spade, greenhouse plastic, rope, no nails needed, scissors 

watering: the swamp itself is really natural and clean+ it has alot of moisture, the greenhouse will have 5-10 5l bottels ontop of the tree, with small holes in itself, and they are going to be filled rainwater and the bottles are connected with hoses and they go into the plants

I will need: 5-10 bottles, 8m hose, ducktape

Soil: I can take soil from the swamp, it gets every year pine needels+huge amount of blueberries+many different mushrooms+moss
is it great soil? i dont like vertisilers alot... :/

questions....

What cannabis plants should i use(id like to test 2-3 different varieties)? and will it grow? summer starts in my location in may-june and lasts until in the middle of august. Then it will get colder slowly. And how long do i have to grow themindoors? or can i just plant them in the soil, when it is a seed?

How often should i visit them? and why?

Can i give them, charcoal(how much), or other organic fertilizers?

When should i trim my plants?

Should i give them co2? go smoke some weed in there from time to time? or put some plants in there, wich will create co2 in there?

How can i make more plants out of one plant? id like to put some outdoors next to some blueberries and in the soaky sunny swamp

That are my ideas atm, can i do it?

Can i grow in so many blueberries? or should leave some space between them?

PS: i havent grown weed yet, but i am really really passionate about my project

Pictures of the nature in the place

 

 

VIVE POWDER FEEDING!!!!!

As promised i got a bit of time today to do i DIY on the individual scrog pots i make. I will not go into measurements as they can be adjusted to suit anyones needs  , i personally have 420 x 420 screens lol

They say necessity is the mother of all good ideas , i am limited for height were i flower and limited in working area so i always though i would not be able to scrog as i need to move my pots around . i also grow perpetually and like to grow many different strains.

All of these things were a roadblock in my quest to scrog . I had to come up with a design that was cheap easy to make , durable and could be moved around. Wood was out as it attacks mould and fungi unless really well sealed. I also didnt like the idea of a steel mesh as it wouldnt last and may rust.

I started to play around with pvc pipe and this is where i got to i hope you guys enjoy

Tools Needed:

Drill

4mm Drill Bit

20m 2.5mm Lacing Twine

Saw

20mm straight pvc joints

pvc pipe bender

screws

2 x 20mm lengths pvc pipe

measuring tape

if you do not have a pipe bender you can substitute the bends with store bought 90 degree elbows

I like to use this type of screw as it works well

Step 1:

-Cut the desired length of pipe eg. if i want a 420 x 420 screen you would want to cut the length to 1.8m

-mark the middle and make your first bend

Step 2:

-Mark the desired length for next bend eg for me i want it 420mm , i would measure 400mm taking into account the extra 20mm from the width of the pipe

-Make the bend

Step 3:

By this point your pipe should be looking like this

-Repeat step 2 to create your next bend

Step 4:

Your pipe should now be looking like this

-Once again repeat step 2 to create the last bend

Step 5:

Your pipe should now be looking like this

-Cut pipe down to correct size and use a coupler to connect the 2 sides

Step 6:

-Mark a piece of wood to create a template to make the holes

-Place the frame on the template and mark the holes

Step 7:

-Drill Holes

Step 8:

-Thread the twine through the holes

don't cut the twine, start by threading through on one end and just unroll as you need , we will cut at the end to not waste any

-the twine must be in an under over configuration as it holds together better

-Tighten up the screen and tie off

Step 9:

I keep all my screens at the same height but pot height differs so my leg sizes differ

-measure and cut legs

-squash the ends of the pipe in a vice or heat up and flatten

Step 10:

-Screw legs onto frame

Step 11

-Fasten frame to pot

DONE

Hope you guys enjoyed it and if i can make one persons life easier i am happy

Cheers 

Reaf

Light Output Comparison Chart

How the Sunlight Affects Plant Growth

And maybe you know a better one? My max height is atm 75cm. But length and bride can be 60-80. (only if smth like this exicst im searching all day already )

I know its very small but i cannot take more atm maybe i will do this 2x. But now my question is which Light i need for Flower and Vega? I have been thinking about 1 lowryder to put in there... maybe to if they fit.

Pls guys help me b4 i  will order shit

i have my indoor plants in the second week of flowering (12/12) from 9pm to 9 am, now i need to change the light cycle from 9am to 9pm. 

What is the best way to do this?

really appreciate your help 

does anyone know or have any idea's how to make a fan more silent.

the fan,

RVK 150 L1 660m3/hour .

any ideas would be great, thanks for reading

Part 1 - Ventilating your growing area

Correctly ventilating your growing area is a vital part of greenhouse/grow room design. Adequate ventilation in the grow room is important for a number of reasons – temperature, humidity, disease and odor control, and fresh/stale air exchange. The calculations that are used to correctly design a ventilation system can be quite complex and require numerous known variables. The purpose of this article is to simplify these calculations while helping you to better understand grow room ventilation.

How to size your exhaust fan

There are many calculations on the web for sizing a fan for ventilating grow rooms; however, what these calculations fail to take into consideration is the friction loss on carbon filters, increased temperatures from HID lights and CO2, etc. The following calculation can be used as a guide for sizing an exhaust fan for a growing area (keep in mind that this calculation will give you the lowest required CFM required to ventilate the grow room):

Step 1 – Room Volume

First the volume of the room needs to be calculated. To calculate multiply length x width x height of growing area e.g. A room that is 8' x 8' x 8' will have a volume of 512 cubic feet.

Step 2 – CFM Required

The fan should be able to adequately exchange the air in a grow room once every three minutes. Therefore, 512 cubic feet/3 minutes = 171 cfm. This will be the absolute minimum cfm for exchanging the air in a grow room.

Step 3 – Additional factors

Unfortunately, the minimum cfm needed to ventilate a grow room is never quite that simple. Once the grower has calculated the minimum cfm required for their grow room the following additional factors need to be considered:

Number of HID lights – add 5% per air cooled light or 10-15% per non-air cooled light.

CO2 – add 5% for rooms with CO2 enrichment

Filters – if a carbon filter is to be used with the exhaust system then add 20%

Ambient temperature – for hot climates (such as Southern California) add 25%, for hot and humid climates (such as Florida) add up to 40%.

Example 1:

In our 8’ x 8’ room we have 2 x 1000w air cooled lights, and we plan to use a carbon filter. We also plan to use CO2 in this room. The ambient temperature is 90°F, however, we will be using air from another room that is air-conditioned.

Minimum Required CFM to ventilate room:

(CFM required for room – step 2) + (CFM required for room – step 2 x 10% (2 air cooled lights)) + (CFM required for room – step 2 x 5% (CO2)) + (CFM required for room – step 2 x 20% (Carbon Filter)) + (Ambient Temperature 0 (Air coming from air-conditioned room)).

= (171cfm) + (171cfm x 10%) +

(171cfm x 5%) + (171cfm x 20%) + ( 0 )

= 231cfm – this is the absolute minimum cfm required to ventilate your room.

The next step would be to match the closest fan to this CFM. As we are using a carbon filter we will need to match the fan with the filter so that the fan that will neatly fit onto the filter. The filter that we will use is a Dutch Breeze Carbon Filter - DFS4. The DFS4 has a 6" flange. Our options for 6" fans are as follows:

- Eco Plus 6” – 440cfm

- Fantech 6” – 252cfm

- Fantech 6” XL – 392cfm

- Elicient 150B – 309cfm

The DFS4 filter has a cfm rating of 255-309, so the fan that we will choose for our room will be the Elicient 6” fan. This will be an ideal fan for this room and carbon filter, since the extra cfm will help compensate for the small amount of ducting we may have to run.

If only step one and two was used (the calculation that is most commonly displayed on garden websites) then the grower would have chosen a 4” fan and a 4” carbon filter; the grower would have soon found out that this fan and carbon filter would have been inadequate for their grow room.

Example 2:

If all the variables are kept the same and we changed the room size from 8’ x 8’ to a 12’ x 12’ then the minimum required CFM would be 519 cfm, thus the fan would be Fantech 8” XL, Elicient 8” or EcoPlus 8” and the DFS5 or DFS6 Dutch Breeze carbon filter.

The Very Important and Often Overlooked Intake Port

It is very important to understand that you can't simply put an exhaust fan in a sealed room and expect to suck air out of it. You absolutely must have some kind of opening in the room to allow fresh air to replace the air you are exhausting. If you don't understand this concept, just put your finger over one end of a straw and try sucking out of the other end - you'll find that the walls of the straw collapse inward and that you can't suck any air out. If you were to poke a small hole somewhere in the straw, you will find that you can now suck air through it; the bigger the hole, the more air you can suck. Obviously, any fan you install in your grow room isn't going to be powerful enough to create enough negative pressure to suck the walls inward, but what will happen is that your fan will draw more energy, make more noise, run hotter, break down much sooner than it should, and finally, suck very little (if any) air out of the room. An intake port can be anything from a gap under the door to an open window - even a hole in the wall. The best place for an intake port is diagonally opposite from your exhaust fan; that way, air has to pass across the entire room - very efficient. You can put a piece of screen over the opening to keep insects and animals out, a piece of A/C filter to keep dust out, or a Louvered Shutter or Backdraft Damper that opens when the fan turns on and closes when it turns off. You can also use a Motorized Damper. This gets installed in-line with your ducting and is plugged into whatever device controls your exhaust fan. When your fan turns on, it allows air to pass. When your fan shuts off, it seals completely, preventing CO2, air, odor, etc. from passing. You can get creative with these devices and use one fan to control two rooms, etc.

One last note about intake ports - you will see much better results from your exhaust system if you install a second fan to create an active (as opposed to passive) intake system. Normally, when your exhaust fan sucks air out of your room, air is passively going to get sucked back into the room. By installing a second fan on the intake side, you will reduce the amount of negative pressure created in the grow room, thereby cutting down greatly on the amount of work the exhaust fan has to do and allowing much more air to pass. Ideally, the intake fan should be the same size as the exhaust fan, but it can be a little smaller if necessary. If you're not sure or you don't want to spend the money, start out with just an exhaust fan. If it's not performing as well as you thought it would, try adding an intake fan - you'll smile when you see the difference!

Fan and Carbon Filter Placement

If no carbon filter is being used then place the fan at the highest possible point in the room; the reason for this that hot air rises and it is the hot air that needs to be exhausted. Also, place the fan on the opposite side of your intake. The negative pressure that the fan creates in the room will pull air from the intake opening across the garden and towards the fan. This will bring the fresh air over the plants while displacing the old stale air.

If a carbon filter is being used then place the fan on top of the filter. There are two options that a grower can use with the carbon filter: 1) Suck through the filter or 2) Blow through the filter.

Sucking air through filter is the preferred method. Carbon filters should be placed on the floor standing upright or hung horizontally from the ceiling. Place the fan and filter in the room opposite the intake port. From the fan, attach ducting so as to exhaust the scrubbed air out the room. Keep the ducting as short as possible and avoid any bends in the ducting. Keeping the ducting as short and as straight as possible will reduce the friction loss and noise.

Blowing through the filter is a less commonly used method of exhausting. The benefit is that the fan can be placed at the highest point in the room and the hot air is sucked out of the room and forced through the filter. However, if you're using the fan/filter combination as part of your exhaust system (as opposed to just an odor scrubber), it will need to be placed outside of the growing area.

Before using a carbon filter for the first time always take the filter outside and then first suck, then blow through it before installing it in your growing area. This will blow out any carbon dust which is created in the filter during transport. During normal operation always keep the dust sock on the filter; this stops large dust particles from blocking the filter and will help prolong the life of the filter.

Air Circulation

Always provide your plants with adequate air movement and circulation in the grow room. Air circulation within the room eliminates stale spots and also reduces the formation of micro-climates within the leaf canopy. If air circulation in the grow room is poor then the micro-climate in between the plants increases in humidity and temperature. This can result in mildew and insect problems, as well as less deficiencies. For adequate air circulation use a wall mounted fan; 2-3 fans will provide sufficient air movement. Never switch these fans off unless you are spraying or fogging your room