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  1. 19 likes
    Hola amigos, bueno vamos allá con este hilo que siempre funciona en los foros, una idea sencilla y divertida, encadenar fotos, como se juega; muy fácil cada usuario pone una foto y debe tener algo que ver con la anterior, e intentar no repetirlas..yo dejo un par de ejemplos... Hello friends to play is very easy, only you need put a photo it has somethig to do with the previous, I put a example, cheers!!
  2. 16 likes
    Hello hunters!!! I am glad to be back with some really nice content for all of you!! As you must have noticed already the Hunters have been back on the road lately with the Vice team, and they have had a tough and long road in the Democratic Republic of the Congo in Africa !! So i have been trying to collect as much infos as possible for you about the trip, it was of course impossible for us to do a Live Thread this time for security reasons, but Franco wrote for you a nice summary of the Expedition and some photos From Jackson and Gil the two photographs of the team, and Simon. I edited a small video as well for you guys to see a little bit how congo is looking! You will not see the fields this time as we reserve them for the movie and to keep the full surprise! But Franco as always did a great job filming all his moves and it gives you the opportunity to have a small preview of whats to come! I hope all of you will enjoy this and stay tuned for the big release in september/october hopefully! STRAIN HUNTERS CONGO EXPEDITION 2016 - Teaser article Almost 3 years went by since our last expedition in Colombia, and it was with great pleasure that Arjan, Simon and myself boarded a flight from Brussels to Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of Congo, on a cold morning last February. Strain hunting is not easy, especially when it has to be filmed and documented professionally. After the Colombia expedition, the first of our travels produced by the world-famous documentary channel Vice, we immediately started working hard on selecting destinations for the next adventure. Nevertheless we were struggling to get the type of good links on the ground that are needed for such missions. After many unsuccessful attempts at several destinations, finally a really good opportunity popped out, concerning the DRC: a friend of Simon, who wishes to stay anonymous, offered the possibility to work closely with Congolese local authorities, to obtain an authorisation to film rural areas in the vast African country. After months of preparation, by the summer of 2015 it became clear that the expedition to Congo was really possible. Thanks to the cooperation of the Congolese Minister of Communications, Media and Culture we got authorisation to film a documentary on the rural communities of Congo and their main medicinal plant: cannabis. All of this with the support of the local police and the army. In the history of Strain Hunters it was the first time we ever obtained an official authorisation, and we were all very excited about it. Preparation for our mission started full scale: travel documents and visas, vaccinations, equipment, gathering of maps and GPS equipment, and all the other necessary preparations. Like in Colombia, also for Congo we had the privilege of having the production done by Jackson Fager and his Vice team, one of the most professional documentary maker and cameraman out there. Jackson selected for the mission cameraman and drone-pilot Chris—, and sound-man Ramsay —, two very skilled professionals, and great travel companions. We were also able to connect with Christo, a Rastafarian from Belgium who lived in Congo many years and speaks the local N’gala language fluently, and agreed to guide us during the expedition, together with local friends Kabo, a French-Congolese local fixer; and Kaza, a local Rastafarian involved with the local FERACO (Federation of Congolese Rastafarians, recognised by the government and with over 60000 registered members). Simon, Christo, Kabo and Kaza met in Congo already a couple of months before the mission, and scouted the areas we were interested in, looking for links and for cannabis fields. So we go back to that cold Brussel morning, when the group of 7 hunters met at the airport and boarded a flight to Kinshasa, where Simon, Kabo and Kaza were already waiting for our arrival. As we landed it became immediately clear that our contacts were at the top level, because we were picked up at the airplane door by military escort and driven directly into the presidential lounge. There we had some drinks, waiting for customs formalities to be taken care of, and I was even allowed to smoke a quick spliff right outside, on the airport tarmac, looking at the planes parked. It felt unreal, and it was the first sign that Congo is a cannabis-friendly country. The very sad colonial history of the country, dominated by the Belgians for over two centuries until 1965, is not to be overlooked when trying to understand the Congolese position on cannabis. Officially cannabis is illegal in Congo, but the only laws forbidding it are old colonial laws, never really applied since the independence. Congolese have a great Rastafarian cultural tradition and they use cannabis since ancient times as a medicine, religious and recreational aid. It is one of the African countries with the highest cannabis use between the population, especially in rural areas where medicines are rarely available. Congo has been thorn apart by a long civil war, started during the 1960s and never really resolved until very recent times. Over 30 years of internal conflict, fuelled by Russia and the USA during cold war years and later on by the race for the local abundant mineral resources, has left the country with very little infrastructure. The main roads are in bad conditions, and distances are immense. The Congo river, one of the largest in the world, functions as the main highway from the capital Kinshasa all the way to the equatorial province, with canoes, boats and barges navigating restlessly the over 2000 kilometres of calm, murky waters.In the central and southern parts of the country the monetary activity is dominant, with mines extracting all kind of rare minerals and precious stones. We had a very detailed travel plan in mind, covering the three main areas where cannabis is produced in the country: the area of Bacongo, between the capital Kinshasa and the Angolan border; the northern area of the Equatorial Province, around the city of Kisangani; and the area around Mbuji Mayi, in the mining district in the middle of the country. We spent the first 2 days in Kinshasa, visiting Feraco headquarters and gathering information on the local landraces of cannabis, the world famous Congolese Red and Congolese Black. Then, the real adventure begun. It was three weeks of travels, emotions, and great findings, through one of the most amazing countries I’ve ever visited in my life. It’s hard to describe Congo, everything is extreme there. Nature is on steroids; the jungle is lush and impenetrable; the sun is hotter and more intense than anywhere else because it’s at the equator; the rain falls so hard that no protection can keep you dry; the people can be the kindest and most hospitable or the most aggressive and hard to deal with, according to the circumstances. And the cannabis… the cannabis of Congo is truly amazing. It’s one of the oldest and purest African landraces. Cannabis was introduced to Northern Africa from Asia, with the silk-road, and then was brought south into the African continent with the Bantu migration, spanning over 1000 years from 1500 to 500 B.C. Congo is one of the places in Africa where the local landrace stayed very isolated for hundreds of years, maybe more. The combination of several factors ensures this precious situation: decades of war made the country virtually unaccessible to tourists and travellers, avoiding the “hippie trail phenomenon” typical of other areas. Congolese people have always consumed cannabis in large amounts, requiring a steady local production. And finally, Congolese produce enough for their own internal consumption, avoiding importing cannabis from other places, thus preserving the landrace. The Congolese landrace in both its expressions of “red” and “black” is a very tall, lanky sativa, with a very high THC and THCV content and very low in CBD and CBN. It has a very minty, fresh flavour and a giggly strong high, very creative and inspiring, almost energising. The mission was a complete success, we were able to retrieve large amounts of local seeds from selected individuals in the fields, in 3 different regions of Congo. And we made what I believe it’s going to be the most exciting and interesting documentary ever, thanks to the competence, passion and talent of Jackson and his team at Vice. Stay tuned, HBO will broadcast it between September 2016 and March 2017, part of the “Vice on HBO show”. After that it will be online on youtube. The hunt goes on. I’m already thinking about the next one. Fullgas. Franco Loja www.strainhunters.com And some photos That's it for the moment Hunters i hope you enjoyed this little teaser and remember there is much more to come real soon Have a good smoke!!
  3. 11 likes
    Hello good people,im new here but not to growing..... As you will se by my older grows ive done,and maybe you even recognize some shots,i will start with my older grows... Mostly skunk#1,G13haze,C99Deisels for my commercial grows! Sativas in the dyas i started way back in 19777' i have grown THOUSANDS of PLANTS and have spent time in prison... Been robbed many many times but i kept going,and my skill level has gotten my in 5 magazines with 2,3 and 4 FULL page write ups with pics and my composting tek,Taco composting in a thick black plastic!!! Using yard materials like fresh weeds,cut grass,brown leaf matter,food waste and water with HEAT breaking down the materials very good,while growing earthworms naturally for free....my tek has been published in Weedwrrld and Treatingyourself mags.....i have a HUGE pic barge ready to unload.... Please bare with me with only 1 post at a time?? Those were skunk#1 f3's.... Got 6 to 7 foot in summer in 3 gallon pots.... 2002' from sensiseeds...made probly 200 thousand seeds fast going from just a 10 pack to f3's in 3 grows for stock commercial. More skunks!! And more...
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    First of all, I am from Japan and cannabis (hemp) has been part of our lives for centuries until after the WW2. Due to the pre-existance of cannabis on the volcanic island, I thought Japan would be a great place to find some interesting genetics. Especially in the southern islands of Japan (Okinawa, and the rest of the little island surround it) because of the weather condition and rich volcanic soil which is a perfect condition for cannabis to grow. What does everyone else think??? Yukiman
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    As you can see here in the last few pics,the same strain as in the very first 2 pics in my first post skunks again!! The smaller ones are grown in the winter months here, from aug/sept. to dec and again from jan. to april/may. So enjoy my many many many thousands of plants,more skunks! That pic is to the left side,i have middle an right comming.... same field.. THats the middle an now the right side of that beautifull morning!
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    Hi, With the onset of winter, and the low temperature, I am happy to start a new indoor crop, a winter crop. My intention is to make a 100% Natural culture, 100% BIO. So .... What better occasion to try the BIO nutrients from Green House Feeding? In this crop I will use the new BIO nutrients from Green House Feeding (coming soon). It will be great to evaluate results personally. If you want to see how they work, or have any questions, maybe I can help solve it This time I decided to use cuttings, instead of seeds. My intention is to grow a lot, before beginning the flowering. Maybe three or four weeks under 400w / 600w metal halide. Then, maybe the flowering will begin on the middle of January (if all goes well). It is an indoor of 1.2m2 With light 250w / 400w / 600w and 600w SL Extraction and intraction system of air Substrate: soil - Normal soil / A little coconut fiber Nutrients: Green House BIO Feeding Containers: Smart Pot 12 Liters / 3 Gallons Ok, it's the first time thats I use Smart Pot containers, so you should have patience haha First of all, I want to put a little armalite / arlite (volcanic rock) on the bottom. This is to improve drainage, just put it a little. Actually, how is the first time thats I use this type of container .... I want to see the difference, So I add a classic container 12 liter / 3 gallon. I put some earth, about halfway. And then I add some Green House Feeding BIO GROW. According to the indications, 3gr / liter of BIO GROW should be used, for a standard culture of one month and a half, or two months of duration. I start with cuttings, so the growth period is only a few weeks or a month. I Use only half of the recommended dose, use 1.5 gr / liter. Once I added BIO GROW, I put more soil and put it all together. Be careful not to move the volcanic rock from the bottom. I try to make a good mix. Also I add a big handful of coconut fiber to each pot. I like to mix it up, to make it a little more fluffy, and keep the moisture better. Now only the transplant is left. This part is boring and dirty, you have to be careful with the delicate roots of the cuttings. When the transplant is finished, I water the pots with water. Only water with PH set to 6.2 (about 1 liter per pot). Once finished, I like to add a bit of volcanic rock / arlite, on top. In this way I can retain moisture better, the soil does not dry out easily. At the moment, I will use 400w. only. In a few days, maybe 600w. The volcanic rock / arlite, has a horrible ph. You have to soak for several days, with a regulated pH (a bit acid). So that they stabilize. Always, before use. For now .... this is it
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    Hi, The plants have grown at a good pace, has been used water with pH regulated to 6.2 and 400w of HM illumination. The irrigations were every four or five days. There is not much heat, it is good to maintain moisture. They have a nice color, it is a natural color, very healthy. The cuttings have adapted very well, grow many new branches and everything at a fast pace. In a few days I had a pruning of low branches, because it already seemed a little jungle. The plants grow very quickly (much), I think change to bloom soon. On the Tuesday 10th, it seems like a good day to make the change from growth to bloom. So I made a light bulb change, now I'm using a HPS bulb (Philips sont pia plus) at 600w. I has also removed all the arlite from the top, has been added the Green House Bio Feeding for flowering, and put the arlite again. I had to remove the lower branches again, another pruning :). They grow at full speed. Now I irrigated with water, with the pH adjusted to 6.5, they are at 12/12 (light). What I like the most, is the speed of growth, and the fantastic color they have. Really healthy, you can tell that they are happy plants. Currently: Lighting 600w HPS / 12-12 light time / water schedule at 6.5 ph / Temp. Max. 26º Temp. Low 17º Temp Normal 22 ° / Humidity 65% Soon more photos and info, regards
  8. 8 likes
    Hi again The plants continue to evolve favorably, the formation of buds in notorious and soon begin to form the first nice buds. They will now be on the 30th or 35th day of flowering, roughly in the middle. I can not see any lack, so everything, for the moment, works great. A big mistake has been put many varieties that are very branched. When they put so many plants in so little space, it is better that they are all of central bud .... But no problem I just have to put a little more attention to avoid excess moisture, and that the buds not collide between them. I used a lot rope, to shape the stripes that were falling by the weight of the shoots. The buds begin to form, now everything is full of smell and resin, it is a paradise.... The maximum temperature is 27º, the minimum of 17º. Humidity is between 40% and 60%, usually about 55% constant. I use water with pH adjusted to 6.5 for irrigation. I do not add anything except the new BIO BOOSTER. BIO BOOSTER is an excellent pk BIO, to add right now, when the flowers need a little more to fatten their buds. It is a liquid product, it is added to the water of irrigation during the fattening of the buds. But all it's not good news ... The guest has arrived home, someone who did not want see me, want see my plants ...has come: The Red Spider. Yes, unfortunately I have seen some leaves with bites, I have looked with the microscope (and with the macro camera) and yes, it is red spider. It is not yet at a very advanced stage, but I am in the middle of the flowering stage. If I do not control it, it can be a big problem (they multiply at incredible speeds). Impossible to use chemicals, impossible to spray anything on my buds, because I want them 100% natural. So, I bought red spider predators (natural). I bought a quantity equivalent to the treatment of 100m2 (I use only 1.5m2), so .... I created the cannibal holocaust in my indoor. Im happy now lol On the other hand, the experiment 50% coconut 50% soil, with nutrients 100% BIO (Organic food by GH Bio Feeding), is being nice. It is beautiful to see the health of the roots, they grow every day more, how healthy they are .... The images speak for themselves. When the plants are happy, it shows. I think this type of powder feed (Green House BIO Feeding) is going to be the future for indoor crops, and of course for outside grows. They are very simple, the plants are very healthy, everything works well. Only need see the one how to fattens the buds of the plants, remains during the next weeks. And of course, smoke and value the taste, the smell, the effect .... the quality I know, that when we used natural nutrients, it is not necessary to perform a wash of roots, or at least not with intensity. But, I am a very stubborn grower, I have my grow habits engraved with fire in my mind. When there are about fifteen days before harvest, I will do a full, very intense wash of roots. I know the plants started to use their own nutrients, the food they have in their leaves and stems. So I will get a little ugly, yellow leaves, etc .... I do not care that in a few weeks they are ugly, the only thing that matters to me, is that they are big buds and of very high quality. And for that, in my humble opinion, ALWAYS needs to perform a great wash of roots. Cheers!
  9. 8 likes
    Hi, Thanks for the feedback mates The plants continue to grow little to little, at the same time they are also making flower. Now it's all very interesting, I can even check some benefits of the BIO fertilizer. The appearance of beneficial mushrooms gives me a lot of confidence. Only substrates with a lot of life, have this type of fungi. It is very positive for my plants, because they look healthier. The fungi do not appear on all the plants, I imagine that in some of the pots it has been very mixed with the earth. Maybe that's why it only appears in some pots. The plants are growing at a good pace, some of them need tutor. So it's time to tie I am also growing some specimens of Flower Bomb Kush, under LED lighting. I made the mix of 50% soil and 50% coconut for them. They are about to pass a flowering, they use one gallon in smartpots. 90w LEDs are enough to grow, with obviously high quality LEDs. I used 3 grams of BIO Feeding per liter of mixture (coconut and soil). At three weeks, I used BIO Enchance (and I repeat every two weeks onwards). I wanted to do a test without use a clay balls (volcanic clay), to evaluate results. Coconut fiber is more aerated, in conjunction with soil, it also has a great microbacterial life. What happens if we use high quality BIO fertilizers and a suitable lighting system? What happens if we use high quality BIO fertilizers and aerated soil? The results are impressive. Plants with a superior growth, a powerful speed. Plants with optimal health, really healthy. And above all ..... An EXPLOSION OF THE ROOT SYSTEM. The roots of the plants go crazy, they are so healthy that they have developed to snows never seen. I do not know how to explain it, they develop so much that they try to get out of the pot hahaha they are great. There are lots of roots, that's super positive. A cannabis plant with many roots, is a plant that can be nourished well, fattening the buds very easily. A plant with a good root system is a very healthier plant. But in addition, the roots are incredibly healthy. Everything is perfect for the moment. The flower bomb Kush are surprisingly healthy and powerful (today or tomorrow will begin blooming). The rest of the plants are progressing very well, now it is in its third week of flowering (more or less). They eat very healthy, forming many shoots and filling the indoor with a delicious smell .... All for now Cheers
  10. 8 likes
    Personally I think, that this nutrients are working very well. It's all 100% natural, and the plants are really healthy. I only removed one plant (a crazy GWS) because my dog decided to eat it haha. Instead, I have put a FBK (Flower Bomb Kush), something smaller in size ... but I hope to contribute some grams in good buds. I like the strength of roots. They are everywhere, in all. The first buds begin to form .... That's all for now! Cheers!
  11. 6 likes
    ^^that was my legendary BANA cross i made to mex sativa!!! Called BananaLou after me,and after a select clone was taken!!! it may be lost,but i have heard an old so called friend is calling it bananalee...i gave him everything and he does me like that? so much for local friends...id rather have online friends!!
  12. 5 likes
    Hi again I come back with new updates, the flowering period has started very well at a general level. Plants look really healthy, they seem to be enjoying themselves! During the first days of flowering, they always become a little crazy, do not know if to grow or bloom ... so they do everything haha With the Bio Bloom fertilizer, I can appreciate the appearance of beneficial fungi. They are fungi in the substrate, white or white bone, very beneficial. You can research more about this type of fungi, for example in USA they are already "requesting". The plants looks very vigorous, even an explosion of roots. I have started using a new product from the BIO range of Green House Feeding, it's called BioEnhancer Bio Enhancer is a mixture of algae and humic acids, also includes tricoderma and bacillus. It is a compound of nutrients, acids and fungi beneficial to the substrate and to the plant. It is a black powder, one gram per liter of water is added and allowed to stand for 24 hours. Then, shake vigorously, adjust the PH and water with this. It should be used every two weeks. From the stage of growth to harvest. The water takes on an petrolium color, dark black. But do not worry, it's totally normal. The water only ups the EC 0.3 (the water that I use has 94ppm / after add this product has 262ppm) ie it had 0.2 and now has 0.5 EC The plants do notice, because the vigor and root development is incredible.
  13. 5 likes
    We will grow our medicine.
  14. 4 likes
    Day9 12/12 and stretch has slowed and first fruit formation is starting to show so I'm going to say day 1 of flower ( I look at it best to be a week over than cutting too short) this is the first time I see the plants react to the light before I put on flower I used to open tent lights out and see them fast asleep! Now in flower you can see them fast asleep soon as lights come on but after half hour the leaves are praying for the light after 10hrs light they are getting ready for sleep time. Group photo is taken about 40 mins after lights on. I've got a sample bottle of terpenez as these are citrus strains I'm goinf to try it but a bit dubious about trying it on tangilope and candy cane and ice from the smell coming out of the unopened bottle smells like it will enhance the citrus smell but worried it will give say a Chem og a sweet citrus flavour instead of the gassy fuel. Would do side by side test but already making 3 different mixes is a chore in itself in the limited time I get to spend with them. Outside temps have dropped so in tent temp has levelled to 25c lights on and 20c night. Debating whether to mix hps with my led which will help raise the temps a little bit make temp difference between day and night a bit wider so may not be a good idea plus I've got a lot running off one circuit so don't want to over power it!
  15. 4 likes
    Hello all well I have just started my second week of veg I think that my plants are looking good
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    42 days of 12/12 and all going fairly well. All 5 plants are really gaining weight now.
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    these pictures was from last year. It from the equatorial region near Bumba, before Kisangani on the Congo river. I just wanted to share the pictures. I also do BHO extraction here.
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    and the hightimes magazine pic of my c99deisel harvest!!!!
  20. 4 likes
    i mainly grow in 3 gallon pots to keep plant size downmy naba's are right over that red shed 10 feet away and ive gotten ayway with tunes of weed here!!!!!! You cant beat my climate for growing,but its VERY UNcomfortable living a ungodly HUMID jungle for 30 yrs enduring insect bites in the millions....and heat that kills man working outdoors on a regulkar basis here in FL,usa....the jungle in HELL........ We also can grow are crops YEAR ROUND and BACK to BACK!!!
  21. 4 likes
    i have some magazine pics in TIFF to large to upload, but lots lots more for you to see anyhow.....
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    Helllo family! yes Dust he flowers are coming, all works very well and seem the nutrients give a good healty. few photos more, I hope you like!! Saludos familia, si Dust algunas flores ya empiezan a asomar, todo esta funcionando muy bien y parece que los nutrientes mantienen una buena salud en ellas, os dejo algunas fotos mas espero que os gusten!! Saludos .
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    Thanks for the comments Jose.gh and g22. I think they're getting there (see photo's), although not sure how many weeks to go and I'm wondering when to start the two-weeks-prior-to-harvest flushing/nutrient change.
  26. 3 likes
    Hi there...here! I am a 100% colombian landrace....who ended up in cold germany due to love....this is my third year growing outdoors and the first decent harvest ahead. Problem is strains are unknown. Anybody wants to take a look and give opinions?
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    This is september out the way more pics soon. Looking nice now we may be lucky and get a smoke from her after all. PEACE
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    Hallo ihr rauchköpfe! Bin grad neu hier. Hab die Bilder vor 2 Wochen gemacht....der Regen zwingt mich, früher als geplant zu ernten....3 Riesen 2,5 m und mehrere Medium size ladies. Alle unbekannte Strains. Schon Proben entnommen und zugelassen!!! 😊😊😊😊
  29. 3 likes
    Good morning Jose, thanks for letting me in! A good pizza? Huh, this is gonna take a while. First of all, you've gotta prepare your "base", the "bread soul" of your pizza. That's gonna take you: - 300g or 10.5 ounces "00" flour (dunno how you call it) - 200g or 7 ounces manitoba flour - 300g or 10.5 ounces water - 12g beer yeast - 10g olive oil - 1/2 teaspoon of sugar - 1 teaspoon of fine salt - In a bowl, mix water, sugar and yeast, until they mix perfectly. - Add flours and start handle the "thing". - Add salt and oil and keep kneading for at least 8-10 minutes. What you need to obtain is a soft bready blob. Not too hard, not too.. blobby, i guess. - Let it rest in a clean bowl, covered, in a furnace or on your table. At 28-30 degrees Celsius (approx 84F) it'll be ready in 2 hours or so. - When it's ready, deflate it and smooth it thin on a woody surface. Help yourself with additional flour or it'll stick to your surface in a matter of seconds. That's basically digestible superglue. If you're poor and have no glue but flour.. - If you're doing baking tin pizza, oil the baking tin first OR add the cooking paper. Let it rest another 2 hours and it'll be ready to.. uhm.. decorations. Like, real hard ingredient spam. Like your grandma would love. If you want it round, just.. round it, i guess. And indeed, let it rest 2 hours and spam the shit out of it. A standard Margherita in italy (tomato, mozzarella) is composed of: - Our base - 400g or 14 ounces of tomato paste (not sauce) - 250g or 9 ounces of mozzarella - 10 basil leaves (optional, but they give taste) - olive oil - salt - origan - When you rounded your pizza, take a small bowl or a cup, and mix together a spurt of salt, your tomato paste, your oil and half the basil. Mix and take a taste to mix the salt, eventually. Important: if you fucked up your salt, for the love of your gods, DON'T ADD SUGAR. - Move your base on some cooking paper (so you don't mess your place, dummy, and it wont stick), and add your mix to the base. Spread it in a way that a round border appears. - Add your mozzarella. For cooking it: If you have an electric furnace: keep it closed, insert your pizza when it's really hot and cook for 8-10 minutes keeping an eye on your temperature and blow the air bubbles if she does them. If you don't blow them, they'll be burned and taste a bit, indeed, of burnt. I like that, but some may not appreciate it. If you have a regular home-furnace: cook your pizza at 190 C°, or 374 F°, for 10 minutes static, then some minute with air flowing. IF you have the REAL LUCK of having a wood furnace: cook your pizza when the furnace is around 230 C°, or 446 F°, keep rotating your pizza to cook all the "sides". A word on this: i cook my pizza a bit differently. I make it a bit thicker, so the "floor" is crunchy but the top is soft and absorbs the ingredient juices. I also add a ton of shit to it, but i have to write this rule, otherwise people will fuck up italian cuisine. Don't. Add. Pineapple. Please. We beg of you. Unless it's Pineapple express.. Have a good pizza!
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    Thank you, Cannabissapean. I'll start writing one as soon as i find a good vpn to write here. Italy's a weird place: you can buy zig zags, paper filters, grinders, but you're supposed to use them with tobacco. You can buy weed seeds, yet you cannot flower them (you can grow them to veg phase, but then you have to kill them). Our laws prohibit personal cultivation, since it assumes it is only for "dealers". I could get 6 to 10 years for growing weed. I'll start tomorrow..
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    Tent overcrowded for the night! I'll be putting second tent up for the seedlings and cuttings into my 1.2x0.6 gorilla grow tent going to tie my pink lemonaid and lemon jones out to fill the space a bit more
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    hello, seed blue emerald feminised de novastore 600w hps soil house and garden ligth mix + perlite nutritions canna mineral ,rhizotonic ,canna vegas ,canna flores,canna pk13 ,canna booster,cannazym pot 18L extraction 800m3 heures intraction 400 m3 heures
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    On Youtube, NVclosetmedgrower has created a fabulous 7-Part Video Growjournal, very good, very detailed with excellent grow-tips throughout the life of a cannabis plant (“Purple Chem OG”) from Germination all the way through Harvest/Drying/Curing. This presentation is so well done, explanations so very easy to understand, I find his videos are just the thing for beginners as well as for some experienced growers. I feel certain that even experienced growers will hear ideas from him that you hadn’t thought of before. He is clever and logical. If you have ever had trouble in your grows or if you want grow-tips to avoid so many common mistakes, Watch This 7-Part Series! I have liked his Series so much that I decided to outline each part for you below. Here are the titles and the current links to his presentation. Take notes; you’ll thank me later. All the following is provided for informational purposes only. Your results may vary, and the risk for you and your plants is entirely yours. The links are found at the bottom of each post, after the outline. (If the links are disabled, you can try to search Youtube for the titles to see if it has been re-posted under different links. Normally, if you can find one of them, you will have also found the whole Series. Or you can search for the author – NVclosetmedgrower.) I hope that you enjoy the Series. OK, Here we go: How to Grow Part 1, Seed Germination. The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline. -Step 1: Hydrogen Peroxide (2-3 drops) in RO-water in Solo Cup for initial 24 hours in cup. -Step 2: Paper towel until Taproot extends -Step 3: Germination and transfer to Initial Cup of Soil -Soil-less Mix Description: Jiffy Seedstarter Mix with 20% Perlite, consisting of: Peat Moss, Vermiculite and Dolomite Lime, flushed with 2 cups of 5,5pH RO-water to reduce the alkaline effects of the Dolomite. One drop of CloneX(a cloning gel containing Vitamin B1 and Butyric Acid) applied 1 inch deep under where the seed/w-taproot will be placed into the cup. Maintain 70+% Humidity using a simple plastic bag over the cup. (A substitute for CloneX is Schultz “TakeRoot”, a powder which contains 0,1% Indole-3-butyric Acid. Obviously, one would need to determine whether a powder or a gel would be preferable depending on the method of its use. I have both onhand.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYIYFyFNMFg&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71
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    All one needs to do is search for it: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=steam+extraction+of+essential+oils
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    Thats sounds cool Half day and afternoon arrive, more and more people are everywhere. Welcome to ExpoGrow!
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    Hi Cannabissapean, t would have been great to share smoke with you here Everything is more active today, more visitors than yesterday, it is noticed that it is Saturday and people feel like coming to enjoy a good day of smoke. Some photos of today Enjoying the weekend at #ExpoGrow
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    At night the concerts began, and a tribute to our brother Franco Loja. The special cup Franco Loja. Thanks Thanks to #ExpoGrow and all people, for making the loving memory of Franco Loja everlasting
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    Hi guys, We started the day of Friday with a special time for professionals of the sector. From 14.30, ExpoGrow will open to everyone Some photos so you can see what is waiting for you, we are already working !! We will wait for you Also you can see all the photos, live, from our facebook : https://www.facebook.com/greenhouseseeds/ Cheers!!
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    I think my sprouting technic is not very goed k-train like to be not so easy to let germinate i let the propogator e litel more colder 20° to 24 °
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    Started chopping the 3 x Jack Herer FAST after 55 days of 12/12 and there appears to be lots of very solid chunky buds. Their trichomes are 60/40 cloudy/amber so I expect a nice smoke. I have found the start of bud-rot, lurking at the very back, within the thickest cola of 1 plant so that cola been trashed because I do not want to take any risks of it spreading. The RH has been higher than I would have liked over the latter part of flowering at round 55% but I think I caught it early and no sign of it on any of the other plants/buds. I think the rainy weather causing moist air is to blame which is coming in via my 2 active intakes feeding into my flowering tent. I will have a play around with them but the active intakes are drawn through carbon filters, to prevent pest and suchlike, so any moisture in the air would find it harder to get inside I would guess. Regardless, no worries and 1 nugget with bud-rot is very far from a disaster. I am pushed for time and chopping will take more time than I have so I am doing it in stages. I have chopped 1 Jack Herer and taken the top cola of the 2 other Jack Herer including the one with bud-rot. Despite the bud-rot I think this will be a pleasing yield again for just 375 REAL LED watts. Here are a few pictures before my hands/gloves got too sticky to take anymore.
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    Some more photos about Hindu Kush, even mosquitoes want to smoke haha
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    this is looking awesome... healthy whites!!!!1!! lovely! u gotta have em for nice buds...
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    Harvesting, Drying & Curing Step by Step The following artical was copied and pasted from Grasscity.comI have been asked a number of times about harvesting and curing. I understand that there are as many ways to cure Marijuana as there are Marijuana strains. It seems that no two growers do it alike. From harvest day to bong. Here is my method: I can't tell you the exact time to chop your plant down. Some research can tell you how long to flower your strain for best results or you can check trichome color. Either way, you will have to do a bit of trial and error to find the very best day to chop the girls down. At day 60 my White Widow shows a mixture of trichome colors. Most of them will be milky or amber, with a small percent of clear ones scattered about. Use a jeweler's loupe/magnifying glass of 20x magnification or more. A small pocket microscope can be bought at RadioShack: I have grown this strain long enough to know that day 60 gives the best flavor and effect. Day 60. My single plant grow: Time to chop it down: Even if you can take the whole plant in one single cut, I would break it up into large sections. This is so it can get lots of air while drying (branches won't be touching). I take one cola/branch at a time. It is very important to take your time and be gentle in every step of harvesting. It's a good idea to always be gentle with your weed at any stage. Manhandling your bud will cause the trichomes to break off (you don't want that). Using a pair of Fiskars® Softouch Micro-Tip Scissors, I take the first of many branches: Noticed I put on rubber gloves? Get a box of them at the drug store. They are a must have item. You will not get that sap off your hands for days no matter what you wash with. Tie some twist ties or line to the end: I like to hang the branch over a bucket or trash-can: Pluck off all the sun leaves and any leaf that is big enough to pull off (without hurting the bud). They can be easily removed by snapping them off while pulling up or you can use scissors: You don't have to get them all. Just get what you can and save the rest for your "Trim-Party". Before: After: As you finish, stack them on a near by table: Dry Time: Try and find a cool, dark, preferably ventilated space such as a closet, basement, or winter attic. I have no such space at my home, so I use the attic all year. It is dark and ventilated but not always cool. Works anyway. Try and hang all the branches so they don't touch anything: A small oscillating fan on low will help things along real nice: Place all the leaf in a few paper bags and place them in the same space as the hanging branches. Leave bag open. TRIM-PARTY! Let them hang for three days (72 hours). After three days they my feel real dry or real damp. It does not matter. Note: You might want to stir the bag of leaves after a day or so. They tend to be real wet. Three days later. So sad the big bud is so small now: Let's get this party started. Lay out all your trim gear. A trim tray (cookie sheet will work), rubber gloves, micro-tip scissors, large paper grocery bags, small brown lunch bags and a few razors (to clean the scissors). Music helps or someone to talk to. It becomes un-fun in 15 minutes (trust me). Most the water has evaporated out of the branches. Before: After: Time to manicure and finish your trimming. This task takes some time and a whole lot of patients. Take a branch and start at the bottom, cutting off all leaves and bud leaf tips. After your get all the big leaves off, pretend you are giving a slight trim to the whole bud. The very tips of the bud leaves will cause the smoke to be harsh, so just do a slight trim all around. Before: After: Now clip the buds off the main stem. Glad that's over: Brown Bag Um: Get a few brown grocery bags and a pack of brown lunch bags. Shred the brown lunch bags (not confetti but strips). I bought a cheap shredder to make strips from the lunch bags: Now lay down a layer of bud at the bottom of the grocery bag (one bud thick): Place a layer of the bag strips over the top of your bud: Place another layer of bud on top of the strips: Keep making layers until the grocery bag is full. Your last layer should be strips: Place your grocery bags in a cool dry place for two days. Churn/mix the bud and strip layers gently and place back for another one or two days: Your bud may look over dry or a little crisp when done. Over dry is much much better then moist. The texture and smell will come back while curing in the jars. Your bud is smoke-able but harsh until cured in jars. The longer it stays in the jar, the smoother the smoke and the stronger the smell. I like the 32oz wide mouth Ball mason jars. They can be found at every grocery store, but next to impossible to locate the isle they are on. Look hard: Don't pack the bud in the jar. Fill them up about 80% to 90%. You can get close to an ounce of small buds in a jar (could be wrong about this fact). Less if they are bigger bud: If the bud it a bit too long, don't squish it or bend it. Just cut it up: After your jars are filled, take a break (you need it): Always store your jars in a cool, dark, and safe location. Light is bad for your weed. Try to remember to open each jar twice a week for the first month. Leave it open for a few minutes and seal it back up. I don't always do this (I forget), but it makes a difference. It's also a good idea to check for mold while opening each one. We can never wait the month that is recommended for jar curing. But it does get much better as time passes. After a month it is killer.
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    I want a pad on my back, please .. Peace everyone best of luck in life
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    i was like a skunky monkey runnin round in all them buds!
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    The 3LB's Guano Guide - The Scoop on Poop The three little birds manual on manure - it's the shit! "Birds love the oil rich seeds of this fruitful plant and in their ecstasies of eating have swallowed many seeds whole. Throughout the ages Cannabis has flown here and there in the bellies of birds and then found itself plopped down on the earth in a pile of poop, ready to go." Bill Drake Marijuana - The Cultivator's Handbook - 1979 Some ancient Italian in a proverb-making mood observed, "Hemp will grow anywhere, but without manure, though it were planted in heaven itself, it will be of no use at all." How lucky it is for Hemp to find Heaven in a pile of birdshit. How fortunate for the birds to find themselves high. How fortunate for the first men and women to notice how the little singing creatures became euphoric after eating the seeds of the tall, strong smelling plant. The planet is tight." Bill Drake Marijuana - The Cultivator's Handbook - 1979 Growing up on a small family farm, one of the three little bird’s childhood memories include complaining to her father about being surrounded by the terrible smell of wastes from the livestock they were raising. "Sweetheart, that's not stink . . . That's the smell of money," was Dad's reply. She certainly understood the value of the livestock her family was raising for profit, which was where Daddy's money came from. Early on, she also made the connection between the farm animals and the tasty meat on their own table. She understood another ironic meaning for her Dad's statement when one of her first paying jobs came shoveling stock barns at a State Fair. And finally, one day as she appreciated the fine aroma of some beautiful blooming wildflowers growing in a recently grazed pasture, she also began to understand the role manure plays as a fertilizer in making our soils rich and productive. Her Father’s saying about manure smelling like money was a few simple words, but, as was often the case with his wisdom, it held many meanings. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The use of manure in agriculture is an age-old and time-honored tradition. Manure has been used as a soil amendment and fertilizer since before mankind first began recording words and symbols in writing. Scientists as prominent as Carl Sagan have suggested that the very first cultivated agricultural crop was likely cannabis. It’s possible that the mingling of manure and marijuana goes all the way back to the very beginning of mankind's attempts to grow crops for a purpose, rather than surviving by simple hunting and gathering. Under the influence of some fine herb, it becomes simple to imagine going back in time. Looking back, in the mind’s eye we can see a tribe of nomadic people looking similar to modern man, but leading a primitive hunter-gatherer existence. We can imagine the clan following available game while taking advantage of locally available fruits and nuts. These men (and women) were not necessarily bigger or stronger than the wild animals they competed against for survival, but they were smarter. And during those seasonal migrations, one of those very distant ancestors likely noticed that their favorite herb plants were thriving especially well in areas where their nomadic tribe disposed of wastes near their seasonal camps. They may have realized that the very herds of animals their clan had been following helped to distribute and nourish the plants they favored. Perhaps, as Bill Drake suggests, it was a discovery from a pile of birdshit where it all began. Regardless of where it started, with a little more thought, our ancestors realized that crops could be fertilized, and even grown with a purpose. Some speculate that this is how agriculture was born; that it all began with a fortuitously placed pile of shit. In the end folks can call it what they like. Whether it's a fancier name like castings or guano, or one of the more common names like crap, poop, manure, or dung. In the end it's all just shit! The three_little_birds want you to know, however, that it can be very good shit. We want you to know that manures are one of the keys to unlocking the awesome potential of organic gardening. In the immeasurable time prior to the invention of agriculture, before man began to till the soil, dead and rotting vegetation naturally returned to the earth as rich and fertile humus. In traditional forms of farming, our ancestors learned to use the components of animal dung and bedding wastes in a sustainable fashion. Before the discovery of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, manure was used as a resource, not a waste product. Natural humus, built up during the ages before agriculture, was replaced by manure, rich in nitrogen and other elements that plants depend upon. Today, that is no longer true. From an environmental perspective, manure is a resource that is being wasted at a terrible rate. In some agricultural areas where a large number of livestock are concentrated and raised, manure is not a resource, but rather, it has become an environmental hazard. Consider, for instance, that a single hog will produce 3000 pounds of manure in under a year. It’s easy to see then how the large concentration of wastes found in corporate factory farms can rival a good-sized city for the total volume of organic waste produced. According to one estimate, the USA alone has something in the range of 175 million farms animals. That multitude of animals excretes over two billion tons of waste per year. Due to mismanagement, misuse, and ignorance, very few of the potential nutrients from these wastes are returned to the land, less than 20% according to some estimates. Instead, this incredible mass of manure threatens to pollute river, streams, lakes, and even the subterranean groundwater that supplies many folk with their drinking water. Therefore, finding proper solutions for the treatment and disposal of all that manure, in an economically feasible fashion, is an absolute necessity of modern agriculture. In the end, good stewardship requires sustainable farming practices that concentrate on finding a balance on the farm. So, as long as humans raise and consume animal livestock, as long as we keep animals such as horses for purpose or pleasure, it is wise to properly use manure to build and sustain our soil. As a side note, one advanced form of gardening, vegan organics, does offer hope for budding organic gardeners who will have nothing to do with the use of manures and guanos. We mention this since some folk might be dismissive of the very thought of handling animal dung, and some indoor gardeners might be repelled by the thought of bringing it into their homes or grow areas. Perhaps for some folk this will be enough reason to decide this particular form of organic gardening is not for them. We hope not because working with manures in your garden does not have to include large messes or smells . . . it's just a question of knowing your shit! For a simple definition, manure is the dung and urine of animals. It is made up of undigested and partially digested food particles, as well as a cocktail of digestive juices and bacteria. As much as 30% of the total mass of manure may be bacteria, so it should be no surprise that dung can serve as excellent inoculants for a compost pile. Mixing manure in your compost can provide all the necessary bacterial populations to quickly and efficiently break down all the other materials common to the heap. Manures can contain the full range of major, minor, and micronutrients that our plants need for strong health and vigor. Most manure will contain these nutrients in forms that are readily available to plants. The organic components of manure will continue to break down slowly over time, providing food for plants in the longer term as well. When composted with even longer-lived rock fertilizers such as Rock Phosphate or Greensand, manures can be used for true long-term soil building. In addition to providing excellent service to gardeners as a potential fertilizer and soil builder, guanos and manures can also both be effectively applied as teas. Manure and guano teas act as fertilizers, providing available nutrients in forms easily assimilated by plants. They also serve as very effective inoculants of many beneficial bacteria The nutrient value of manures can vary significantly from species to species, due to different digestive systems and feeding patterns. Even within a species, the fertilizer content of dung will vary depending on factors such as diet, the animal’s general health, as well as their age. Young animals devote much of their energy to growth, so their manure will be poorer in nutrients than that of mature animals. A lot full of baby pigs on starter feed will deposit wastes with a different nutrient value than the wastes produced by a lot full of swine ready to go to market. An animal’s diet certainly plays a factor as well. The Rodale Book on Composting (an excellent resource) uses the example of an animal fed only straw and hay. The waste from that animal will be significantly different in nutrient content when compared to a sibling fed a diet including more nutritious feed such as wheat bran, cottonseed meal, or gluten meal. The purpose an animal is used and bred for can even cause the nutrient value of a manure to vary. Dairy cows serve here as an excellent example. Milk production is somewhat taxing, even to a dairy cow. In addition to large amounts of calcium, milk also contains high levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the three primary plant nutrients. Since so many nutrients are being used to produce milk, less actual plant fertilizer will be available in those animal wastes for soil building. Another factor that will change the fertilizer value of manure is relative age and the way it has been handled. Manures left exposed to the elements will quickly lose their nutrient value. Rain can quickly leach soluble nutrients from manure. A thin pile of crap can lose as much as one half of its fertilizer value in under a week. To fully capture the nutrient potential of manure, it’s necessary to compost the shit quickly while it’s still fresh. With the exception of guanos (which are mined fossilized waste deposits) and castings (which are mild and well digested), it is generally advisable to compost wastes and manures before direct use in your garden. When added directly to soil, fresh manures can act in a similar fashion to chemical fertilizers. The Nitrogen in fresh manures (ammonia and highly soluble nitrates) can burn delicate plant root systems and even interfere with seed germination. Another good reason to compost manures before use is the fact that some animal manure can be full of weed seeds. Proper high temperature composting techniques can kill those unwanted guests as well as many potential soil pathogens. Used alone, animal manures may not be completely balanced fertilizers. However, once the manures have been properly amended and composted, any imbalances can be easily corrected and the manure itself can be broken down and digested into nutrients that are both balanced and available for our favorite plants and herbs. Proper composting will actually increase nutrient value in manure. Some types of bacteria in a compost pile will “fix†nitrogen. This preserves this essential nutrient by preventing escape as gaseous ammonia. If the conscientious composter prevents leaching, all of the original phosphorus and potassium can be preserved. As an added benefit, the composting process will increase the solubility of these nutrients. We want to continue our discourse with a simple listing of manures that can be used to good effect by budding gardeners. But, we would be remiss if we did not begin by first discussing the few manures we believe are NOT suitable for use in gardening. Human wastes, as well as the wastes of domestic cats and dogs, are considered totally unsuitable for use as fertilizer. DO NOT GARDEN WITH THESE WASTES! With these sources, too large a potential exists for the spread of deadly parasites and disease. Just say no to any suggestion for the use of those few manure sources. That said, there are a great variety of guanos, manures, and castings that are safe and available for use by the enterprising horticulturalist. The list includes but is not limited to: • The Manures 1. Chicken Manure 2. Poultry Manures (including Duck, Pigeon & Turkey Manure) 3. Cattle Manure 4. Goat Manure 5. Horse Manure 6. Pig Manure 7. Rabbit Manure 8. Sheep Manure • The Guanos 1. Bat Guano - (including Mexican, Jamaican, & Indonesian bat guanos) 2. Seabird Guano - (including Peruvian seabird guano) • Miscellaneous Wastes / Manures 1. Earthworm Castings 2. Cricket Castings 3. Aquarium & Aquatic Turtle Wastewater 5. Green Manures The Manures Now it's time to describe the various manures and their unique attributes. Bird Manures - are treated separately from animal manures since fowls don't excrete urine separately like mammals do. Because of this, bird manures tend to be "hotter". Overall they are much richer in many nutrients than animal manures, especially nitrogen. Because of their higher nutrient content, some growers prefer birdshit to the other animal manures. Chicken Manure (1.1-1.4-0.6) - is the most common bird shit available for farmers. It's high in nitrogen and can easily burn plants unless composted first. Feathers (often included with chicken manure) tend to further increase available nitrogen - an added bonus. A small amount of dried chicken manure can be used as a top-dressing or mixed in small concentrations directly into soil. Chicken manures are probably best used after complete composting. Chicken droppings are often composted with other manures as well as green matter, leaves, straw, shredded corncobs, or other convenient source of organic carbons. Chicken manure is also a common ingredient in some mushroom compost recipes. One potential concern for the budding organic farmer, is the large amount of antibiotics fed to domestic fowl in large production facilities. It is also suggested that some caution should be used when handling chicken droppings, whether fresh or dried. Dried chicken shit is very fine and is a lung irritant. Caution is also counseled since bird (and bat guanos) can carry spores that cause human respiratory disease, so please wear a mask when handling bird and bat guanos and fresh foul waste. Poultry Manures (1.1-1.4-0.6) - are often simply chicken shit mixed also with the droppings of other domesticated birds including duck droppings, pigeon poop, and turkey turds. They are "hotter" than most animal droppings, and in general they can be treated like chicken shit. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Animal Manures vary by species, and also depending of how the animals are kept and manures are collected. Urine contains a large percentage of nitrogen and potassium. This means that animals boarded in a fashion where urine is absorbed with their feces (by straw or other similar bedding), can produce organic compost that is richer in nutrients. Cattle Manure (0.6-0.2-0.5) - is considered "cold" manure since it is moister and less concentrated than most other animal shit. It breaks down and gives off nutrients fairly slowly. Cow shit is an especially good source of beneficial bacteria, because of the complex bovine digestive system. Cow digestion includes regurgitation (cows chew their "cud") and a series of stomachs, all evolved to help cows more fully digest grasses. Since cow manure is more fully digested, it also is less likely to become a source of weed seeds than some other manure. Depending on your location, many sources of cattle manure can be from dairy cows. Recent expansion in the use of bovine growth hormones to increase milk production certainly could become a concern for organic farmers trying to source safe cattle manures. The healthier the cow, and the healthier the cow's diet, the more nutrients its manure will carry. Goat Manure (0.7-0.3-0.9) - can be treated in a similar fashion to sheep dung or horse shit. It is usually fairly dry and rich and is a "hot" manure (therefore best composted before use). Horse Manure (0.7-0.3-0.6) - is richer in nitrogen than cattle or swine manure, so it is a "hot" manure. A common source of horse manure is rural stables, where owners usually bed the beasts very well. Horse manures sourced from stables, therefore, may also contain large amounts of other organic matter such as wood shavings or straw with manure mixed in. Some sources of mushroom compost contain large quantities of horse manure and bedding in their mix. So from one standpoint, horseshit's use in herb growing is already fairly well documented. Horseshit, because it is hot, should be composted along with other manures and higher carbon materials, and in some cases wet down, to prevent it from cooking too hot and fast which destroys potential plant nutrients. As is true with all the different manures, healthier, well maintained animals will produce more nutritious and better balanced fertilizer. Since horses are usually well tended, this means horse manure from stables is usually a pretty good source for those in search of shit. Unfortunately, horse crap also contains a higher number of weed seeds than other comparable manure fertilizers. Pig Manure (0.5-0.3-0.5) - is highly concentrated or "hot" manure. It is less rich in nitrogen than horse or bird crap, but stronger than many of the other animal manures. Swine crap is wetter overall than other mammal manures, and is often stored by farmers in the form of liquid slurry, that is mostly water. When allowed to dry, hog shit becomes a very fine dust, which can be a lung irritant. Pig shit is less likely to have nutrients "burn off" in the compost pile than horse manure, but is best used when mixed and composted with other manures and/or large quantities of vegetable matter. Rabbit Manure (2.4-1.4-0.6) - is the hottest of the animal manures. It may even be higher in nitrogen than some poultry manures. As an added bonus it also contains fairly high percentages of phosphates. Because of it's high nitrogen content, rabbit crap is best used in small quantities (as a light top dressing or lightly mixed into soil) or composted before use. An excellent fertilizer by itself, some folks combine rabbit hutches with worm farms to create what is a potentially very rich source of nutritious worm castings. As with other animal manures, healthier animals fed a nutritious diet will produce a superior manure fertilizer. Sheep Manure (0.7-0.3-0.9) - is another hot manure similar to horse or goat manure. It is generally high in nutrients and heats up quickly in a compost pile because it contains little water. Sheep and goat pellets, because they are lighter, are easier to handle than some other manures. Sheep shit contains relatively few weed seeds but more organic matter than other animal manures. As a side note, sheep farming is generally more destructive to the environment than cattle farming (or many other grazers). Sheep have a "split lip" allowing them to graze closer to the ground, so they tend to strip grass bare to the root. This heavy grazing kills many grasses, leaving earth more prone to destructive erosion. While it’s hardly considered environmentally friendly, cattle grazing is less heavy on the land than sheep farming. The Guanos Bat Guano "There are, in Cuba, a great number of caves providing a considerable supply of the richest fertilizer. In these caves, where bats shelter, a fertilizer has accumulated, a true guano, the result of a mixture of solid and liquid excrement, the remains of the fruit that fed the animals, and their own carcasses. All these materials, sheltered from the sun, air and rain, form a rich mix of nitrogenous, carbonaceous and saline elements. They contain uric acid, ammonium urate, nitrates, phosphates and calcium carbonate, alkaline salts, etc. The huge quantity of guano amassed in some caves can be explained by the number of beasts that have sheltered there for so many years". Alvaro Reinoso - "Ensayos sobre el cultivo de la caña de azúcar", ("Essays on sugar-cane cultivation"), Havana - 1862 Bat and seabird guanos are some of the most wonderful, extraordinary, versatile, naturally occurring organic fertilizers known to man. They are not considered to be a renewable resource, and they are sometimes mined in an environmentally destructive fashion, so environmentally conscious growers sometimes avoid guanos. Bat Guano - Bat guano is found as deposits in some caves that have been inhabited by these little flying mammals. Bat crap can sometimes also be found in smaller quantities in other places bats inhabit (old or abandoned buildings, trees, etc.). Bat guano has many horticultural uses. Its presence can help to guarantee efficient soil regeneration. When used as a fertilizer or tea, bat crap fosters abundant harvests of a high quality, making it an invaluable agricultural fertilizer for producing outstanding organic herbs, fruits, and vegetables. Many dedicated organic farmers insist that bat guano brings out the best flavors in their organic herbs. The bottom line is bat guano has many excellent properties that give it great value for growing an organic product of the highest quality. It may very well be possible to justify the boast that bat guano is "superior to all other natural fertilizers". Bat Guano consists primarily of excrement of bats (no surprises there - eh?) It also contains the remains of bats that lived and died in that location over many long years. Bat guano is usually found in caves, and bats are not the only residents. Therefore, bat guano almost certainly contains the remains and excrement of other critters such as insects, mice, snakes and (gasp!) even birds. And, guano is by no means just collected excrement and animal remains, as guano ages it can undergo a array of complex decomposition and leaching processes. The fertilizer quality of any particular bat guano depends on variety of factors. These can include: the type of rock in which the guano cave formed, the feeding habits of the bat species producing the guano, the guano’s age, and the progress of mineralization in the guano (which undergoes an endless transformation through chemical and biological processes). Guano can appear in a wide range of colors including white, yellow, brown, hazel, gray, black, or red, but color does not indicate or influence its quality. One of the factors that can determine the fertilizer quality of bat guano is the dietary habits of the different bat species who inhabit a cave. Some bats are vegetarian, eating primarily fruits. Other bats are carnivorous; their diet usually consists of insects and similar small critters. As an example, the specific form of nitrogen in guano will depend on the feeding habits of the bats living in the caves. Bats that feed on insects eject fragments of chitin, the main component of insects' exoskeletons. Chitin resists decomposition, and contributes a long lasting form of nitrogen that appears in many older guano deposits. Obviously, chitin from digested insect remains is not likely to be found in any quantity in the guano of fruit eating bats. Even a cave’s location will effect the composition of guano deposits found within. Different chemical reactions during the actual cave making process result in different nutrient characteristics in the various guanos. Over time, guano combines in various ways with the actual rock and minerals from the bedrock of their region. Ultimately, minerals may be deposited throughout layers of guano by a variety of means. Minerals that have been dissolved in water filtering through porous rock from above can fortify guano deposits as they drip from cave ceilings. In caves where water filters through the guano, soluble elements will likely be washed out, so the composition of the guano changes in other ways as well. In addition to minerals deposited by leaching water, another factor in guano composition is the huge amount of particulates that fall from the cave ceilings and walls where the bats sleep and hibernate. The release of their liquid excrement at high-pressure pounds cave walls, and the physical presence of the bats as they constantly flit about, both combine to cause erosion. Chemical reactions caused by the bat crap (as well as many natural cave making processes), also work to break down cave ceilings and walls. All of these factors result in an invisible rain of minute solid mineral particulates. All of these mineral particulates are mixed into the copious quantities of bat crap (and other matter) deposited on the floor. As a result, bat guanos have a wide range natural / organic source mineral nutrients that are immediately available for plants, called chelates. Another large component of bat guano deposits is the “fauna†within, the great collection of microorganisms that work as decomposers. Their main function is to accelerate the process of breaking down organic matter in the guano. These beneficial bacteria populations work to increase the guano’s wealth of essential nutrients, and can provide their own benefit to gardeners as a soil innoculant. Once bat guano is deposited, it begins and endless process of transformation. From fresh deposits, nitrogen is the essential element that is usually released first. This is partially as ammonia, with its characteristic strong smell, which is omnipresent in fresh guano. The rest of the nitrogen oxidizes and forms nitrates that are often dissolved and leached by water. The phosphorus contained in guano comes partly from bat excrement, but is generally from skeletal remains (it may also come from mineral elements in the cave.) Many of the decomposition processes work to concentrate phosphorous levels in bat guano deposits as they age, and this provides some of guano’s greatest value to gardeners. Potassium is often the least represented of the three essential macro-elements, due to the solubility of its compounds, which are usually washed out of guano deposits by natural cave conditions. During decomposition the actual proportion of the different fertilizer components of the guano change. As the guano breaks down, the levels of organic matter, nitrogen, and potassium will fall. At the same time, the relative levels of calcium, phosphates, sand, and clay levels will rise. The actual excrement and remains of bats are the main source of the elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in guano. The organic compounds in the excrement contain sulphur, phosphorus, and nitrogen. After decomposition and oxidation, these combine to form sulphuric, phosphoric, and nitric acids. Over time, those acids react with mineral elements from cave rock to form a variety of mineral salts - including sulphates, phosphates, and nitrates. Leaching washes out most of the soluble compounds including the nitrates, sodium, and potassium compounds. At the same time, the insoluble phosphates and sulphates build up in larger proportions. These include calcium phosphate, iron phosphate, aluminium phosphate and calcium sulphate. . As we have already said, bat guano is an ecological fertilizer, obtained naturally from the excrement and physical remains of bats living in caves. This product is rich in nutrients, outclassing all other existing organic fertilizers, with a better balance of essential nutrients (N-P-K), a wealth of micro-organisms and much higher levels of organic matter. Its chemical and biological composition vary according to the bats' feeding habits, type of cave, age of guano, etc. A great variety of different agrochemical analyses have been carried out on bat guanos through the years. All the different analysis show that the nutrient and micro-organism content of bat guanos are high, but it varies according to the type of guano. Because the chemical, physical and biological composition of bat guano (and other organic fertilizers) will naturally vary, it is impossible to set a specific single value for any nutrient. The table below is copied from internet research and is a summary of the variety of results obtained from bat guano analyses. Source: Omar Páez Malagón, January 2004 Total Nitrogen(N) 1.00-6.00% Phosphorus Oxide (P2O5) 1.50-9.00% Potassium Oxide (K2O) 0.70-1.20% Calcium Oxide (CaO) 3.60-12.0% Magnesium Oxide (MgO) 0.70-2.00% Iron (Fe) 0.70-1.50% Copper (Cu) 0.20-0.50% Manganese Oxide (MnO) 0.40-0.70% Zinc (Zn) 0.40-0.65% Sodium (Na+) 0.45-0.50% Organic matter (OM) 30-65% pH (in H2O) 4.3-5.5 Ratio C/N 8-15/1 Humidity (Hy) 40-30% Total humic extract 25-15.00% Microbial flora 30 - 45x107 u.f.c./ gr Note: These values are not always uniform, but provide useful data for calculating doses of nutrients or micro-organisms and analyzing the product's physical properties for agricultural or industrial use. These indicators are for intermediate guano, in the natural state of transition between fresh guano and old or fossil guano. Source: Omar Páez Malagón, January 200 seabird guano-contains an equivalent percentage of plant nutrients,helps bind soil particles,aids in nitrogen fixation and greatly enhances beneficial bacteria. A great all around nutrient with quite a history.The most famous of all seabird guano's was that used by the inca's,the word guano actually originated from Quichua, language of the Inca civilization and means "the droppings of sea birds".The guano was collected on the rainless islands and coast of Peru.Where the atmospheric conditions insured a minimal loss of nutrients,leaving the Legendary fertilizer of the Incas.Seabird guano can be used as an soil amendment or as a tea at 1-2tbsp per gal.Bcause of its balanced npk ratio,an average of 10-10-2.5,seabird guano can be used as a base when making tea's (throught out the grow) Green Manure Green Manure is a crop grown for the purpose of supplying the soil with nutrients and organic matter. It is called a “cover crop†when the green manure is grown for the added purpose of reducing soil erosion. Green manures are usually legumes or grasses, and they are grown with the simple intent that they will be turned back under the soil. Cover crops and green manures are certainly cost effective for large-scale farmers, but many backyard gardeners have no idea how simple and effective they are to use. And, as we mentioned earlier, they do offer a “manure†option for growers who choose vegan organics. Green manures improve soil in a variety of ways. Green manures add significant amount of organic matter into the soil. Like animal manures, the decomposing of green manures works to enhance biological activity in the soil. Green manures can also diminish the frequency of common weeds, and when used in a crop rotation, they can help to reduce disease and pests. When turned under, the rotting vegetation supports beneficial bacterial populations. As those decomposers do their work, nutrients stored by the cover crop are returned to the soil. Alfalfa roots regularly grow to depths of five feet or more, soybeans and clover can reach almost as deep. Since their roots go deeper than folk would commonly cultivate with a rototiller or plow, a green manure crop can bring subsoil minerals up to where even shallow rooted plants can reach them. Green manures also help to improve overall soil structure, because those deep reaching roots leave behind minute channels deep into the soil. When these deep roots decay, they provide organic matter that promotes long-term soil building. Except for buckwheat (a member of the rhubarb family) and rapeseed (related to the cabbages), all commonly used green manures are either legumes or grasses. Rye and oats are two good examples of grass family members that are commonly used as green manures. When we think of legumes, beans and peas are the “classics†which come to mind, but the legume family also includes relatives such as clover and alfalfa. Members of the legume family can be particularly valuable as green manures, due to their ability to “fix†nitrogen from the atmosphere. In the legume family, a very specific type of bacteria works in league with plant roots. These microorganisms, called nitrogen fixing bacteria, form nodules on the plant roots where they work in a form of partnership with their host. Functioning in concert with the plant roots, nitrogen fixing bacteria transform atmospheric nitrogen (which plants otherwise can’t use), into ammonia, which plant roots can easily absorb. If one of these plants is uprooted, the small nodules become visible as white or pinkish bumps the size of a large pinhead. The more nodules visible the better, since more nodules equals more nitrogen fixed. To assure that enough of these bacteria are present, commercially sold legume seeds are often treated with a bacterial innoculant. Make sure to get the appropriate innoculant for your specific legume crop if it’s necessary to inoculate your own soil or legume seed stock. Each kind of legume requires a specific species of bacteria for effective nitrogen fixation, and each innoculant works for only a few species. It’s usually possible to buy an innoculant mix designed for all peas, snap or dry beans, as well as lima beans. Soybeans will require their own specific innoculant. A totally different innoculant will be needed to serve the needs of the vetches (as well as fava beans.) Still another nitrogen fixing bacteria will work with all the true clovers, but sweet clovers will require yet another innoculant. With careful stewardship, a legume cover crop can enrich the soil with enough nitrogen to supply most of the following years crop nitrogen needs. Commonly used legumes for cover crops include: alfalfa; fava, mung and soy beans; a whole variety of clovers; cowpeas and field peas; common or hairy vetch; the lupines; and finally our favorite name among the legume cover crops - Birdsfoot trefoil. Although the grasses and other non-legumes do not have the ability to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, they still provide all the other benefits of green manures. Other non-legume crops grown for green manure include; barley, bromegrass, buckwheat, millet, oats, rapeseed, winter rye, ryegrass, grain sorghum, and wheat. Seed for cover crop and green manures doesn’t need to come from fancy little packets at the garden center. Purchase grass and legume seeds by the pound, if you can, to save money. Farm and agricultural supply centers, what we call “feed & seed†stores, usually offer the most economical source. If your garden area is small, a single pound of seed may go a long way. With the smaller seeds, a pound could be expected to last through a couple of plantings. The larger seeds of legumes, like beans and peas, don’t store as well, so it’s advised to purchase them fresh annually. The use of green manures and cover crops is relatively simple, the primary necessity being the time to grow the plants. Some preplanning is always helpful to make sure the correct crop is selected to best meet the grower’s needs. So, for example, if enriching soil nitrogen levels is a goal, then it’s best to choose a cover crop from the legume family due to their ability to fix nitrogen. Some green manure plantings tolerate poor soil quality better than others, so some cover crops may be chosen because they tolerate particularly acidic (or alkaline) conditions. If a grower needs to break up hardpan soil and improve drainage, some cover crops grow very strong and deep roots. Such conditions call for green manures like alfalfa and birdsfoot trefoil that can thrust their roots through anything but the most dreadfully compressed soils. As stated earlier, deep-rooted plants can also bring up essential nutrients from the subsoil. And, some do even more; they actually accumulate nutrients, concentrating them. Growing these green manures can produce a measurable (although not huge) increase in soil nutrients. Some legumes, especially red clover, can help to increase phosphorus levels. Buckwheat also increases phosphorus, as well as helping to supplement calcium. Vetches are also accumulator plants, working to increase levels of both calcium and sulfur. Buckwheat and Rye are examples of crops often grown as green manures that also function to control weeds. Winter Rye is actually a natural herbicide; it produces chemicals that are toxic to many weed seedlings. Buckwheat works by outgrowing its weedy competitors. The large leaves of buckwheat effectively shade out many common annual weeds. It’s also necessary to consider the seasonal needs of your garden when planning a green manure planting. Some green manures are early season crops, while others do better when planted during the heat of summer. Winter rye and winter wheat are usually planted in the late summer or fall and then turned under in the following spring. Another key to getting the most from a green manure planting is to turn them under at the proper time. Winter cover crops of rye and wheat, for instance, should be turned under as soon as the spring soil is dry enough to work. It’s best when turning under a winter wheat to allow at least two weeks for the green manure to “work†in the soil before beginning any spring planting. In order to assure good germination rates, it’s necessary to wait even longer for winter rye manures to be ready for replanting. A three to four week wait is suggested after turning under a winter rye crop before sowing seeds of another crop. This is due to the same herbicidal quality that makes winter rye effective in the control of weeds. In general with most grass cover crops, the best timing is to turn them under before they form mature seed. Turning under legumes at any time will enhance the organic matter in soil and promote an active population of beneficial soil bacteria. But, to get the full benefit of a legume plantings ability to fix nitrogen, they should be allowed to grow a full season. Perennials like alfalfa, red clover, and birdsfoot trefoil can produce additional soil enriching nitrogen if allowed to grow for a second season. If allowed those two years of growth, they can be mowed multiple times, providing a high quality source of compost or material for mulching. An alfalfa cover planting can serve as a gardener’s own sure source of fresh materials for the manufacture of alfalfa teas. Miscellaneous Wastes / Manures this space reserved for further information on Miscellaneous Wastes / Manures 1. Earthworm Castings 2. Cricket Castings 3. Aquarium Wastewater Finding Manure As we’ve stated, one of the best reasons to use manures in growing is the fact that society (as a whole) has a surplus of animal shit. The disposal or dispersal of animal wastes is a real problem for areas where large agricultural operations produce copious excesses of waste. Even Vegans who might avoid pure animal products like bone meal or blood meal, might do well to consider using manures in growing, because the use of manures is beneficial to our planet's environment. The best advice we can give for finding good sources of shit is to look around! We suggest you simply contact people who raise the various cows, horses, pigs or chickens that make this fertilizer. If you are lucky, they'll probably let you take a load home for free. Stables are usually listed in the phone book, and state fairs and traveling circuses can also serve as great sources for free manure. For the hopelessly urban farmer, the local zoo may also offer free crap. As an added benefit, zoos can offer some pretty exotic shit, like crap from critters like lions and tigers and bears, (oh my!) Some folk claim that manure from predator species like these can help to deter garden pests, such as rabbits and deer. If none of these manure sources are available, or if you just prefer your shit pre-packaged, just head off to the local nursery or home-and-garden center. Wal-Mart, Lowes, and Home Depot are all examples of large outlets which will carry packaged manure products, usually cow and steer crap. Often these are at least partially composted and come labeled as "humus and manure". Nowadays, even many grocery stores carries manure products like humus and manure or mushroom compost. The budget conscious shopper can often wait until late in the season when stores are "closing out" such products before winter, to grab these items at increased discounts. Garden centers or hydro shops are usually better sources for the more exotic ingredients like worm castings and the various bat and bird guanos. Ingredients for green manures can often be found in rural animal feed stores, or other similar agricultural supply center. Original Article by "The 3 Littlele Birds", copied and pasted from - http://www.onlinepot.org/grow/3lbGuanoGuide.htm Peace Lams
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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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