Here are a few pics from Bubble hash made over the winter and this past summer.

This is the seventh article in a series where I present selected tricks and advanced growing techniques. My name is Franco, and I work at Green House Seed Company, in Amsterdam, since the year 2000. Over the last 10 years I have learned from Arjan countless tricks and advanced techniques, and I developed a few of my own as well. And now it’s time to share some of this knowledge with growers worldwide. If we share the knowledge, everybody wins. Last month I explained some of the best tricks for growing large outdoor plants. This month, I give you... Franco’s tricks on flowering indoors The flowering is one of the most rewarding phases of any crop, because the progress towards the harvest can be looked, touched, smelled. Plants are now developing flower clusters, and there are several factors that can guarantee success in quality and quantity. Indoors and outdoors, the goal is for plants to feel good about the conditions, the environment, and the grower. When working indoors it is important to notice that every single factor depends from the grower, there should be nothing left to chance. The ideal climate conditions for flowering at lamps on are at temperature between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius, and a relative humidity between 40% and 55%. When the lamps turn off it is normal that the temperature lowers to 20-22 degrees, while the relative humidity climbs to around 60%. If the temperature gap between day and night is larger than 8-10 degrees Celsius there is a risk of slowing down the metabolic of the crop. The relative humidity must stay under 70% to avoid mold and fungi in the crop. A good way to cope with high daytime temperature is to run the lamps opposite to daylight. This way the maximum temperature in the growroom will stay lower, but the disadvantage of this system is that the gap between day and night temperature will be reduced to a minimum, and sometimes this can create problems because plants actually benefit from a 8 to 10 degrees gap between the day temperature and the night one. Nevertheless, it is better to sacrifice the day-night gap, than to end up with temperatures over 35 degrees Celsius in the growroom during daytime. Air conditioning is a very expensive and environmentally unfriendly option, but sometimes it’s the only one for indoor growers in warm countries. The benefits are cool air and a drying effect as well, ideal during flowering. It is worth noticing that plants do not like air conditioning directly blowing towards them, it is much better to direct the flow of air towards the ceiling, where it will precipitate allowing warmer air to climb. This way the diffusion of cooled, dry air is uniform in the room and not direct on the plants. Once the climate is perfectly under control, it is worth dedicating some energy to optimize feeding intake. During flowering the plants use mostly P, K and Micros to produce buds and resin. The N intake is still important during the first few weeks of flowering, but later on it must decrease, or the buds will get leafy and the calyx-to-leaf ratio will decrease dramatically, creating issues for manicuring as well. Only with extremely long-flowering sativas, the N intake can be kept a little longer, to avoid premature yellowing of the leaves. To allow plants to slowly intake less N and more P-K-Micros, the pH of the feeding solution should stay above 6.0 after the beginning of the flowering, ideally slowly climbing between 6.2 and 6.6 in soil, and slowly climbing between 5.9 and 6.3 in hydroponics, depending on the strain and the stage of flowering. The rule of thumb here is that the more a strain is long-flowering, the higher the pH should be at the end of the flowering process; with 12-weeker sativas pH usually climbs to 6.9 or 7.0 at the end of flowering. The most important of Micro-elements (Mg, Ca, Zn, Fe) are also assimilated at best if the pH is above 6.0 and these are very important in the formation of terpenes, cannabinoids and resin. The best way to make sure the plants intake the available minerals is to ensure that they are hungry and thirsty. The best is to create a cycle of dry-wet medium, where the dry spells allow plenty of oxygen to the root sytem and the wet spells allow enough watering solution to be absorbed. The one thing that flowering cannabis plants do not like, is a constantly wet medium. Besides the normal watering cycle, it is also important to regularly flush the medium to get rid of salts. This can be done with a mild solution at pH 5.5 and EC 1.0, so that the salt crystals can bind to the low-mineral-content in the solution and dissolve. Flushing should be integrated in the regular watering cycle, and after flushing the medium should be allowed to dry properly before feeding again. Once the feeding is optimized, it is good to take care of the other factors affecting a successful crop. Between them, supporting the flowers, and optimizing the pre-harvest and the harvest. After 4 weeks of flowering the plants have usually developed enough bud to start getting heavy, so it is advisable to support the branches with some system (bamboos, elastic bands, nets, yoyos or any system that prevents branches from collapsing under the weight of the flower clusters). Depending on the strain, support can be an important or a marginal issue. Large sativas usually need the most support. Pre-harvesting means removing most of the large fan-leaves from the plants during the last days of the flowering cycle, before cutting them down for manicuring and drying. Pre-harvesting helps reducing the total amount of green material (water and chlorophyll) in the crop. Once the big fan-leaves (the ones that have no resin on) have been removed, the plants reduce the amount of photosynthesis, and produce less starches. This allows for sweeter and better-burning weed, and makes the whole harvesting process much easier and faster. In conclusion, it is up to the grower to identify the weakest points of the grow, and improve from there. Curiosity and will to improve are the key factors to a green thumb. During flowering, a lot can be done to ensure a great crop; and it’s all worth it. Franco – Green House Seed Co. This content is copyright of Green House Seed Co. © Green House Seed Co. All rights reserved. Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents in any form is prohibited other than the following:You may not, except with our express written permission, distribute or commercially exploit the content. Nor may you transmit it or store it in any other website or other form of electronic retrieval system.

hey everyone, i was at a friends house today to check out his garden andd help him with a few thing's like usual and he showed me something that i found quite interesting. he had to take some clones and we where discussing a video on superthrive for clones and he told me something he uses with great success and its actually simple and cheap as can be and he claims it works better then even store bought rooting hormone. and what that is , is honey he takes a small dish puts alittle honey in the bottom then dips the base of the clones stem in the honey just as you would with rooting gel and then places the cutting in the peat pucks. at first i was alittle weary so when i got home i decided to look up the use of honey as a rooting hormone replacement in gardening and it turns out that it is used commonly, so far i have heard reviews saying it's just as good a rooting gel or that its better and a few that say that while its affective the rooting gel's that you can buy are better, even tho rooting gel isn't all that exspensive i figured if it works its worth sharing because growing in general can be quite costly so any bucks you can save is good in my books. i dont know exactly why it works but i would love to hear other's opinion's before i test it out but its just good to know that there's something where if i wanna take some clones and i don't have any rooting gel around there's something cheap and easily available that you don't need to go to a garden center or a hydroponic shop to pick up. anyways here's a little video i found on you tube where a guy test's rooting gel vs honey and his result's.

hey aussie, you can get a product called.. rhizotonic, i think its made by canna, you use it to soak the cubes in before you put the clones into it, it helps with this issue. Its a root conditioner, helps with developing rhizomes, also helps them root a little faster. also, you can give clones a weak nutrient solution from the day theyre cut. at about a week, these would have started to develop roots, so maybe watering with a 1/4 strength nutrient now would be the go. theres another product similar to rhizo called cannatonic (also made by canna) you can also use when they have started to develop roots. i dont bother with this one.. as i just use a weak nutrient to water with.. roots seem to explode out of the cubes

It happens sometimes before the roots are breaking thru the rockwool that they look like a wreck.....but they do not look to good, really. This is becuse of lack of nitrogen in the motherplants before taking the clones. The motherplant should be really green and then give them only water for some days, then take the clones. I would give them a weak fertilizer solution AFTER the roots are really visible.o

Guys as promised the harvest pictures from the later flowering and maturing lady, I've noticed she likes a slightly higher Ph and for soil growers I would suggest to keep your Ph around 6.8 the whole grow. With het ec on 2.0 during 6th and 7th week off flowering she started to show some burns nothing serious but maybe when you new to growing you must not go above 1.8 after a good buildup. I've done steps from 0.2 ec about every week, if I recall right but it's all in the journal. I would say she is a great plant has a lovely ssh like smell but a little more fruity. I've had a first impression smoking some preharvest. She is a fast hitter but doesn't last long, couch locking, But very enjoyable high. I'm kind off a creative guy and it's good for creativeness. Some pain releaf can sure be offered by this girly.

I am sorry that I do not speak Spanish Rubio_owned, but I have to say WOW man!! Beautiful plants, and beautiful pictures!!! Thanks for sharing, I will keep following to the end Peace

Hi guys, Thank you so much for that Richard Branson videoclip and his message! We need to get weed our of the dark corners and into the light. Only then we are able to raise consciousness about the thousands of varieties and abilities weed has to offer. Firefighter

thanks for the little harvest report man! Congratz on the weight pretty fair results considering they were chopped early like you said And if the smoke is good in the end this is the most important part I hope with curing the green taste will go away and leave an even better soke Have a good soke man!

que guapas hombre! como la otra semana pero es mas guapas Good to see so many budsites growing everywhere! And lovely macros as always with you thanks for the update man!