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  1. 22 likes
    Ever since we started growing and breeding cannabis we have been looking for the perfect plant feeding. Never satisfied with the results from using several brands available on the market, we started researching our own formula at the beginning of the third millennium. After several years spent in the lab and in the growrooms, investing significant resources in R&D, we came up with a new concept: keep it simple! Simplicity is our secret for success. Most fertilizer brands on the market require customers to buy a line of products, making things expensive and complicated. We aimed in the opposite direction, creating a powder product that delivers unprecedented results with minimum cost and a user-friendly approach. Easier to transport, easier to store, easier to use, and with a longer shelf life than liquid fertilizers. We are now ready to introduce GREEN HOUSE POWDER FEEDING: - It is a one-component mineral fertilizer developed to target specific types of cannabis. - Producing great cannabis has never been so easy. - One product for the whole crop. Maximum yield, maximum resin production, minimum effort. http://www.greenhousefeeding.com
  2. 17 likes
    Hello hunters, so here i am to announce this very sad news that some of you must know already, we have lost a hunter but will keep fighting! Respect my brother Franco is an icon and helped change so many peoples lives. He will deeply be missed as a brother, father, son, friend and so much more. "Cannabis is my passion, my bread, my home. I feel it is my duty to make sure this amazing plant is preserved and enjoyed. I am a smoker, a grower, a breeder, and a strain hunter. For life."Franco, the Strain HunterMay 20th 1974 - January 2nd 2017
  3. 14 likes
  4. 10 likes
    Hi hi ho!! Comes the day 36 of flowering, temperatures plummet, Max 23º and minimum of 17º ...... this promises a lots of resin !! The buds are still in formation, some begin to gain weight slowly, but it seems that even no rush .... Increased extraction, low humidity at 60% maximum and 35% minimum. I'm happy, but to prevent bad fungi, I am using foliar horse tail, this prevents fungi. Less bla bla bla and more pictures, I hope you like macros !! They can also view them on Instagram, my account is @josegreenhouse Greetings !!
  5. 9 likes
    Yop Guys so, old rules beeing Gone i'll write this new thread to remind them even tho they are pretty simples As our old members know we are very relaxed forum and we don't have that much rules to follow: -Seed trading on the Forum is Forbidden by the law AND by the rules, so please don't talk about trading seeds on the board! What you do in your real life is not our concern, but not on our board - NEVER sale or ask to buy anything on the board, weed, mushrooms, products of any kind,... Depending on the cases members will be warned AND/OR banned -Stay polite and gentle with everyone even if you don't agree with something, anyone starting to call other members any names or badwords will be warned and/or banned depending on how rude he was. Of course everyone can have arguments just do it politly - Anyone can share any link as long as it is not on commercial purpose or clearly spamming, any forum, brand, seedbank, link it if it serves your thread Thanks everyone for reading i will edit with time if i remember somethings i forgot to put! cheeers enjoy our wonderful forum
  6. 9 likes
    Hi again The smell of all plants is very intense, fortunately for me ... the red spider attack has been late, and has only damaged the plants I'm looking forward to drying and smoking, these Bio-buds !! Some photos more This are more photos of MK again This is the Northern Lights (cut of my friend Jose) More photographys soon!! Have a nice weekend bro
  7. 9 likes
    Hi, The plants have grown at a good pace, has been used water with pH regulated to 6.2 and 400w of HM illumination. The irrigations were every four or five days. There is not much heat, it is good to maintain moisture. They have a nice color, it is a natural color, very healthy. The cuttings have adapted very well, grow many new branches and everything at a fast pace. In a few days I had a pruning of low branches, because it already seemed a little jungle. The plants grow very quickly (much), I think change to bloom soon. On the Tuesday 10th, it seems like a good day to make the change from growth to bloom. So I made a light bulb change, now I'm using a HPS bulb (Philips sont pia plus) at 600w. I has also removed all the arlite from the top, has been added the Green House Bio Feeding for flowering, and put the arlite again. I had to remove the lower branches again, another pruning :). They grow at full speed. Now I irrigated with water, with the pH adjusted to 6.5, they are at 12/12 (light). What I like the most, is the speed of growth, and the fantastic color they have. Really healthy, you can tell that they are happy plants. Currently: Lighting 600w HPS / 12-12 light time / water schedule at 6.5 ph / Temp. Max. 26º Temp. Low 17º Temp Normal 22 ° / Humidity 65% Soon more photos and info, regards
  8. 8 likes
    Hi, Thanks for the feedback mates The plants continue to grow little to little, at the same time they are also making flower. Now it's all very interesting, I can even check some benefits of the BIO fertilizer. The appearance of beneficial mushrooms gives me a lot of confidence. Only substrates with a lot of life, have this type of fungi. It is very positive for my plants, because they look healthier. The fungi do not appear on all the plants, I imagine that in some of the pots it has been very mixed with the earth. Maybe that's why it only appears in some pots. The plants are growing at a good pace, some of them need tutor. So it's time to tie I am also growing some specimens of Flower Bomb Kush, under LED lighting. I made the mix of 50% soil and 50% coconut for them. They are about to pass a flowering, they use one gallon in smartpots. 90w LEDs are enough to grow, with obviously high quality LEDs. I used 3 grams of BIO Feeding per liter of mixture (coconut and soil). At three weeks, I used BIO Enchance (and I repeat every two weeks onwards). I wanted to do a test without use a clay balls (volcanic clay), to evaluate results. Coconut fiber is more aerated, in conjunction with soil, it also has a great microbacterial life. What happens if we use high quality BIO fertilizers and a suitable lighting system? What happens if we use high quality BIO fertilizers and aerated soil? The results are impressive. Plants with a superior growth, a powerful speed. Plants with optimal health, really healthy. And above all ..... An EXPLOSION OF THE ROOT SYSTEM. The roots of the plants go crazy, they are so healthy that they have developed to snows never seen. I do not know how to explain it, they develop so much that they try to get out of the pot hahaha they are great. There are lots of roots, that's super positive. A cannabis plant with many roots, is a plant that can be nourished well, fattening the buds very easily. A plant with a good root system is a very healthier plant. But in addition, the roots are incredibly healthy. Everything is perfect for the moment. The flower bomb Kush are surprisingly healthy and powerful (today or tomorrow will begin blooming). The rest of the plants are progressing very well, now it is in its third week of flowering (more or less). They eat very healthy, forming many shoots and filling the indoor with a delicious smell .... All for now Cheers
  9. 8 likes
    Personally I think, that this nutrients are working very well. It's all 100% natural, and the plants are really healthy. I only removed one plant (a crazy GWS) because my dog decided to eat it haha. Instead, I have put a FBK (Flower Bomb Kush), something smaller in size ... but I hope to contribute some grams in good buds. I like the strength of roots. They are everywhere, in all. The first buds begin to form .... That's all for now! Cheers!
  10. 8 likes
    Hi Guys, this is from my journal and I've been asked if I would post it here too, so here it is: A few people have asked about the CO2 bubblers I have in my little grow tent so here's exactly what the set up is, very cheap and I think successful looking at my girls in comparison to my last grow they are way way ahead but that could just be the difference in strains, these are Autos the others weren't. In my set up I'm using: 2 x 1.5Liter drinks bottles 2 x Wine/Beer bubblers - Cost anything between $3-5 for two including the rubber bungs. Contents: 1 x Cup Unrefined sugar Half teaspoon Bakers Yeast, apparently brewers yeast is even better and last a bit longer as mine only produce bubbles well for three days before I either add more sugar or a freshmix completely. Half teaspoon baking soda to speed up process a little. Empty and clean your bottles, you can use bigger if you like just up the ingredients a bit, pour in 1 x cups of unrefined sugar, you can use standard white but I just happen to use unrefined anyway so it was to hand. Then pour in some warm NOT hot water fill 2/3rds, you must leave room at the top for expansion or they can overspill !!! Place top back on and shake furiously till sugar is pretty much dissolved in water, then remove top and add your yeast and baking soda, put top back on and shake like mad again. Voila, your mix is ready, now just put the bungs in bottle tops and put bubblers in the bung holes, fill one side of plastic bubbles with water and you'll be able to see exactly how often it produces bubbles of CO2. Mine normally start produciing within 3-4 hours and then bubble every 5-15, faster at first and then slowing down, once they slowed right down just repeat the whole exercise again or just top up with more sugar. I tend to do a completely fresh set up otherwise it produces bubbles but nowhere near the same rate. I'm doing my nutes change today and have now got another two bottle, which I now intend to hang above the plants, one in each corner as CO2 is heavy than oxygen so drops down, ideally you want it dropping onto your plants. There are many other ways to use CO2 from tiny little cannisters 5-10grams right up to huge great cyclinders with hundreds of liters but for most home/small growers the method described above is cheap and effective, the only problem is you have no real control over exactly how much CO2 is being released nor do you know exactly how much it's producing, unless you get a CO2 meter. Here's my set up with four bottles hanging one in each corner. Hope this helps, Toaor
  11. 8 likes
    Hi Hunter's, I wanted to make this topic for a while but haven't had the courage to word it out, i do feel tho however that it could possible help someone as it helped me. so i will explain just what i mean when i say using White family Genetic's to treat opiate and cocaine addiction. those of you who know me or check out my grow's would probably be surprised to find out i am an EX heroin addict and was addicted to opiate's for a long time. I have a disease known as IBD or inflamed bowel disease. I had been self medicating with pain killer's all through high school and for the majority of my adult life. For the longest time i could remember i felt hopeless. I used methadone to try and quit with zero success i would use heroin on top of the methadone because the methadone alone was sufficient to treat the pain it was a cycle of let down after let down and i truly felt trapped. For the longest time i thought there was nothing i could do and that i was destine to be an addict for the rest of my life. Until the day my doctor suggested i try marijuana for pain and the methadone for addiction. i thought she was crazy i already smoked marijuana in my teen's like crazy tho i had stopped for the most part by then because i found that smoking marijuana when i was in withdrawal gave me panic attack's and made my situation worse. She told me that different strain's can have different effect's so try a numasber of them till you find one that work'. and SO i went to the dispensary and bought a bunch of different type's of marijuana. For me i was like a kid in a candy store and it renewed my love for weed. so i got to smoking and trying as many strain's as possible, i found personally that many of the strain's helped my pain some even better then the opiate's. But the most amazing thing was when i smoked a strain called GWS again this strain used to be very popular when i was a kid so it was a blast from the past for me to try again. when i smoked it tho i found something incredible happened all my urge's to use opiate's just went away almost like i forgot about it ( which any addict will tell you is impossible) i couldent believe it the more of it i smoked the less i relapsed. eventually i was able to stop taking heroin all together around the time i joined this forum i actually started to come off my methadone. everyone i know has seen the change in my condition both my doctor's on the medical side and my parent's family and friend's. my mom to this day thank's god that i found marijuana again and it has completely changed her view's on marijuana. But here's the thing i knew it worked for me but until recently i had no clue as to why? i had a lot of questions like why did GWS and white widow have this effect? i remeber watching a video from drug inc around this time where aryan mentioned his time in laos and thailand treating heroin junkies with marijuana. http://www.growhd.tv/video/Drugs-Inc-Amsterdam/7aca827bcd85ebc72fda1bd3d72a7b19 It prompted me to look further into the medical literature on cannabis. I found a few thing's i think can answer these question's and help many other's suffering from addiction. i am now comming up to my 1 year anniversary (november 17) of being off heroin completely , within the next 6 month's i plan to be completely off methadone at which time i will be completely off opiate's a feat i have never successful accomplished in the 8 + year's of using intravenous hard drug's. Now this isent a miracle cure but with addiction there are no miracle cure's, i may only have 1 year of being clean from heroin but i have been seriously trying for over 2 year's to get here. But the marijuana helped greatly i doubt i could have even gotten this far without it. and i finally found out why it helped which is something i feel i should share with everyone and is why i am describing this personal story.... my first clue came in the form of the grow session's video's from green house tho it took me a while to put the two together, i did rescearch on cannabinoid's and still couldn't find the answer then i heard franco and aryan talking about terpene profile's and said hey i need to look into these terpene's. I then went to Green House's website where they profile the terpene's of almost all of there strain's and looked specifically at white widow and just started going down the list of most abundant terpene's.... Once i looked into the second and third most abundant terpene i had my answer Caryophyllene!!!! this terpene is one of the most amazing in my mind, for one it's the only terpene that is known to activate CB2 receptor's and the only non cannabinoid that is known to do so. and lucky for me it has been shown to improve the symptom's of colitis but it also appear's that this terpene is the perfect natural dietary full CB2 agonist. Now this part need's alittle exsplaining. in around 2011 a study was done using a new potent selective CB2 agonist, a chemical called JWH133 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JWH-133) in the study Mice where given a drip to self administer cocaine after a period of time half of the mice where given this CB2 agonist JWH133. the result's where that the mice given the CB2 receptor agonist stopped self administering the cocaine while the other mice just continued on taking the cocaine. Here is a link to pubmed's publication of the finding's (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21785434) This study has amazing implication's, a scientist out of switzerland has been studying terpene's and specifically beta - Caryophyllene and he say's that Beta Caryophyllene is an even more effective selective CB2 agonist then the JWH133 as you can read here - http://gertschgroup.com/blog/entry/2198093/the-cb2-receptor-involved-in-cocaine-addiction So it seem's the CB2 receptor is directly involved in addiction and have an effect on the reward center of the brain. This is really fascinating when you consider that it can not only help those with one of the hardest addiction's to treat cocaine addiction but also in other form's of addiction as most addictive behavior is linked to the reward center and the regulation and production of dopamine. i can confirm the result's in the mice study from my experience with the widow family genetic's most specifically the White widow and GWS from Green house seed company. i would smoke the strain whenever i felt the craving for a fix and by the time i finnished the joint my craving's had completely subsided. This could be extremely useful in treating opiate addiction especially in the crucial few week's and month's after kicking the drug. but also in a number of other addiction's. On a side note, cannabis high in beta caryophllene might also be good for smoker's who report panic attacks from marijuana, Beta caryophllene is found in a certain type of black pepper. Black pepper is one of the ingredient's in an ancient cannabis antidote used to curb the intoxicating effect's of THC Ancient cannabis antidotes. (A) Lemon (Citrus limon). ( Calamus plant roots (Acorus calamus). © Pine nuts (Pinusspp.). (D) Black pepper (Piper nigrum) all of these item's contain Terpene's found in cannabis the lemon rind's have lemonene , the pine nut's pinene, the black pepper has both pinene and beta caryophyelle, and the Calamus root has mycrene among other terpene's . So in conclusion while i hope that no one look's down on me for my past, i feel that it's important that if we find some sort of medical use for cannabis to make it known. i know Cannabis helped me greatly during the hardest time's of my life and continue to help me to this day which is why i grow it and try to show other's how to grow it at home easily. i hope someone find's help with this info. i would like to hear more about Aryan's experience's with this man treating heroin addict's as it was part of what brought me to find this info. anyways until next time stay green!
  12. 8 likes
    The flowers are growing, now is the time to get fat !! The first large leaves and old, are now yellow, good symptom !! That means that the plant is now consuming all its potassium! I do not do more fertilizers, from now until end of year, just water. That plants will get ugly, very yellow leaves and stains, but is normal and necessary. The best herb to smoke, is the least fertilizers has in its leaves !! @Dust Earlier this year, before harvest, I do pictures and will put the name of each picture, so everyone can see each variety separately . Now some photos of the day 41 of flowering !! Also, I'm Preparing the next round .... surprise !! I Germinando New Regular Seeds of Company ..... THIS will Be the bomb! Cheers, Jose
  13. 7 likes
    hola les presento desde uruguay mis dos nenas, están empezando la primer semana de flora
  14. 7 likes
    Well guys, its a done deal! When I woke up today and had you guys concurence that it was time I was as excited as I was as a kid on christmas! I took all the girls down today, trimmed them up and have them hanging. I have to go and get some clothes pins tomorrow to hang up the other branches that I have on the ground in the room. I have a huge batch of buds and leaves to make some bubble hash and that will be a blast also. I will send weights once they dry. Looks like a good harvest and I have learned so much from everyone this grow. Its sort of funny that feeling you get each time you get to harvest, you feel like you've really accomplished something. Thank you all very much! Here are some harvest day pictures. Best Regards!
  15. 6 likes
    Hello friends Another year we reach to the Spannabis on Barcelona, and of course, we will be there to greet you. This year are celebrated on 10,11 and 12 March. All team of Green House Seeds, Strain Hunters, Green House Medical and Green House Feeding is available to welcome the exchange of the smoke and shows the novelties: NEW BIO Feeding !! This year however, there is not our brother Franco Loja (R.I.P.). If you want, you can convey your condolences. We miss you Franco #FrancoFullgas You can find us in booth number 57
  16. 6 likes
    Thanks all for your comments, plants and strains are very good !! Apologize for the delay, many pictures to review and many pictures to work. Also, my camera crazy again, not focus well ... in 50 photos, only one with good focus. It is a big problem for me, because the pictures are important to me. I have reviewed hundreds of pictures, and these are what I think may show plants. Not good pics, but I no have more haha BlueBerry B-Gum El Niño Erdpurt (I hate this strain now lol) Flower Bomb Kush
  17. 6 likes
    Germination Week 2 report! Date; 12-11-12 Grow box humidity; 88-92% Grow box temp; 30c Spray bottle water temp; Room temp 22c Hours of light; 18 hours EC; 0,5 PH; 5,5 Note/Messages; Holy sh** the time fly´s by quick. The Seedlings are now 2 weeks old and everything is great . The seed how dont pop up is dead RIP! I open up the jiffy pot for a look and the seed shell was like empty. My guess is that I kill it in some sick twisted way. Anyway I got 4 beautiful seedlings left and that´s all I need for make this show going . You can see rots trow the jiffy pot´s on all 4 Seedlings so after this update the Seedlings will enter the hydrosystem tonight . The tallest seedling is now 6 cm tall and 7 cm cross over, the smallest one is only 4 cm tall and 3 cm cross over. Everyone look really good very green small fan leafs . On 2 Seedlings we have mutant leafs on the first set but come normal on the second set. I preparer the hydrosystem whit water solution putting on air pumps letting the medium get wet so I can put in the Seedlings in there new home. So from tonight the Seedlings are getting a water solution whit a Ph of 5,5 and a EC of 1,1! I will feed only one time a day now in the beginning. More info about this next week. Im really excited now and only want to see how they turn out in this amazing environment that I have give them ! Please enjoy the photo´s of all the girls plus how they enter the hydro system . Peace & Smoke Jimmy
  18. 5 likes
    Got this tattoo done yesterday in memory of the great Franco Loja! May you RIP my friend. #fullgas
  19. 5 likes
    Thanks SantaBuds Now I'm germinating some new seeds, to see how they come out
  20. 5 likes
    Hi again I come back with new updates, the flowering period has started very well at a general level. Plants look really healthy, they seem to be enjoying themselves! During the first days of flowering, they always become a little crazy, do not know if to grow or bloom ... so they do everything haha With the Bio Bloom fertilizer, I can appreciate the appearance of beneficial fungi. They are fungi in the substrate, white or white bone, very beneficial. You can research more about this type of fungi, for example in USA they are already "requesting". The plants looks very vigorous, even an explosion of roots. I have started using a new product from the BIO range of Green House Feeding, it's called BioEnhancer Bio Enhancer is a mixture of algae and humic acids, also includes tricoderma and bacillus. It is a compound of nutrients, acids and fungi beneficial to the substrate and to the plant. It is a black powder, one gram per liter of water is added and allowed to stand for 24 hours. Then, shake vigorously, adjust the PH and water with this. It should be used every two weeks. From the stage of growth to harvest. The water takes on an petrolium color, dark black. But do not worry, it's totally normal. The water only ups the EC 0.3 (the water that I use has 94ppm / after add this product has 262ppm) ie it had 0.2 and now has 0.5 EC The plants do notice, because the vigor and root development is incredible.
  21. 5 likes
    Estado actual de los skjes y una de NL Auto ^^
  22. 5 likes
    Whiteflies Prevent: If there are whiteflies in your area, sticky traps will catch whiteflies quickly especially if colored yellow. Adult whiteflies are strongly attracted to the color yellow and will fly into traps before flying to your plant. Yellow paper covered in glue or sticky substance would work as well. Identify: Whiteflies look like its bitty white moths, the adults have wings. The easiest method of detection is shaking limbs on your plants, if tiny moths fly away from under leaves you got some whiteflies. Eggs are also attached to the leaves along the underside. These pests also suck liquids from your plant much like the spider mite. Whiteflies begin attacking marijuana plants from the top down and prefer to attack the weakest plant available. If you only find whiteflies infesting the top of a single plant, you've caught an infestation as it begins. Leaf damage from the whitefly almost exactly mimic the damage caused by spider mite attacks. The further damage progresses, the more strength and vigor the plant will lose. The stippling and spotting on leaves damaged by whiteflies closely resembles the damage done by the spider mite Eradicate Repression: The whitefly is a difficult pest to control given that all the adults fly. The best slowing measure you can employ is yellow sticky traps placed around your plants then toss them when full. This will only control adults who leave eggs and larvae behind constantly, traps will not eradicate your whitefly problem. Predators: Encarisa formosa is a species of miniature wasp that only attacks whiteflies. This small wasp does not attack humans and kills whitefly populations by laying eggs on whiteflies. When hatched, the wasp larvae eats its way through the whitefly, literally devouring it from the inside out. Slow and painful, just like they deserve. 2 predators per plant should do the trick if the infestation is caught before it becomes severe. Repeat every 2 weeks until 2 weeks after whiteflies cannot be spotted. Ensure you clean plants and grow area thoroughly if you have sprayed against mites or flies as these treatments will also kill this wasp. Manual Removal: Perhaps Mr. Miyagi could catch them all with chopsticks. . . . but I don't recommend you try. Spray: Easily smacked down with insecticidal soap, natural sprays, or pyrethrum. Prior to spraying, remove any leaves that are more than 50% damaged and burn them. If you can't start a fire anywhere, heating them to excess of 140F/60C will do the trick. Whiteflies die easily, however they lay eggs prolifically and love re-infecting damaged plant matter. Apply spray against the whitefly at 5 to 10 day intervals until 10 days after whiteflies have not been detected. copied & pasted from - http://www.420magazine.com/forums/problems-pests-disease-control/156568-guide-identifying-your-pests.html Peace Lams
  23. 4 likes
    Hi mates, We started a new contest where you can try a known strain, amazing strain: White Rhino We can send 10 feminized seeds and BIO Feeding / Feeding to each grower interested, that meets with the requirements. We would like to make a little contest, about grow diaryes (the work performed and exhibited in the forum). The contest start January 1 and finish June 1 of 2018, you have 5 months for grow, bloom and harvest. Also we have some prizes for the best works 1st prize: IPad 4 mini 2nd prize: T-Shirt + Hoody + 3 Pack of seeds 3rd prize: T-Shirt + Hoody + 3 Pack of seeds The Grow Diaryes, should be initiated at: http://forums.strainhunters.com/forum/212-test-area-white-rhino-contest/ We will be given preference to users of this forum with more seniority, and / or grow diaryes. Limited: Limited participants. Excluded all people who requested seeds in previous editions, and did not do a grow diary, without exception. Do you want to participate? Reply to this post, write your answer: say me how many pots will you use. If you are selected, we will contact you by private message on the forum. IMPORTANT: You can start cultivating at any time, but should start your grow Diary in January. If you can not grow at this months, please not write to be a competitor. You can write.... Now! Cheers
  24. 4 likes
    Hi @Jose.gh, I'd like to be considered as potential grower pls. Granted, I'm going to be way down on the seniority list, and it would be only my 2nd know-what-I'm-growing grow. My First know-what-I'm-growing grow should be finishing up (big tent) while I can get these 20% Sativa / 80% Indica White Rhino going in the propagation tent. 9 weeks flowering, plus 6 weeks veg, plus 2 weeks seedling = 17 weeks total (19 without optimum conditions according to Grow Log with Arjan & Franco). Ending 31st May means germination =< 1st Feb, or 2nd week of Jan, minimum. It works. Having found the forum fairly recently, I already had seeds from another seed bank but really want to try some GHS's, AND I'd really like to try BIO Feeding as well, AND since I'm doing grow diaries, I I'd like to do a grow diary on this forum using your seeds & ferts, so this comp' is right up my alley. Many thanks for the consideration and for the help on the forum. Regs, ShaggyGrower edit: forgot the number of pots. I'll be using four (4) pots in a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.0m tent.
  25. 4 likes
    Day 13 of seedling stage for DD & Nebula. Perhaps those two are now in veg - not too sure of the cutover from seedling to veg. 125w CFL still on 24hrs per day. Growth is motored along last (human-) night. Topped DD and Nebula (NVclosetmedgrower topped around this growth point). They're left with their cotyledons, their first single-fingered set of leaves, their first three-fingered set of leaves; their first two sets of five-fingered (perhaps the second is a seven-fingered) leaves.
  26. 4 likes
    On Youtube, NVclosetmedgrower has created a fabulous 7-Part Video Growjournal, very good, very detailed with excellent grow-tips throughout the life of a cannabis plant (“Purple Chem OG”) from Germination all the way through Harvest/Drying/Curing. This presentation is so well done, explanations so very easy to understand, I find his videos are just the thing for beginners as well as for some experienced growers. I feel certain that even experienced growers will hear ideas from him that you hadn’t thought of before. He is clever and logical. If you have ever had trouble in your grows or if you want grow-tips to avoid so many common mistakes, Watch This 7-Part Series! I have liked his Series so much that I decided to outline each part for you below. Here are the titles and the current links to his presentation. Take notes; you’ll thank me later. All the following is provided for informational purposes only. Your results may vary, and the risk for you and your plants is entirely yours. The links are found at the bottom of each post, after the outline. (If the links are disabled, you can try to search Youtube for the titles to see if it has been re-posted under different links. Normally, if you can find one of them, you will have also found the whole Series. Or you can search for the author – NVclosetmedgrower.) I hope that you enjoy the Series. OK, Here we go: How to Grow Part 1, Seed Germination. The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline. -Step 1: Hydrogen Peroxide (2-3 drops) in RO-water in Solo Cup for initial 24 hours in cup. -Step 2: Paper towel until Taproot extends -Step 3: Germination and transfer to Initial Cup of Soil -Soil-less Mix Description: Jiffy Seedstarter Mix with 20% Perlite, consisting of: Peat Moss, Vermiculite and Dolomite Lime, flushed with 2 cups of 5,5pH RO-water to reduce the alkaline effects of the Dolomite. One drop of CloneX(a cloning gel containing Vitamin B1 and Butyric Acid) applied 1 inch deep under where the seed/w-taproot will be placed into the cup. Maintain 70+% Humidity using a simple plastic bag over the cup. (A substitute for CloneX is Schultz “TakeRoot”, a powder which contains 0,1% Indole-3-butyric Acid. Obviously, one would need to determine whether a powder or a gel would be preferable depending on the method of its use. I have both onhand.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYIYFyFNMFg&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71
  27. 4 likes
    Heyo, So, first of all, i wanted to shout to the world (well, this at least) that i might have defeated spider mites! Big YAY! I've checked with a small light under each leaf, and havent's seen a single mite crawling. Ha! Motherfuckers. I'll continue the neem oil + soap treatment for at least another time, then will only spray as a soil drench. In conclusion, a clean enviroment, humidity spikes, and neem oil + soap worked against spider mites. Haven't worked for fungus gnats. They're back. I am scratching my head, i can't seem to figure out how the fuck they're forming. I've treated my soil with H202, Neem Oil; I've cleaned my bedroom, i've cleaned the grow room; I keep removing specs of soil or other things to prevent formation; I never open the windows (i have an extractor on the roof). How the fuck are they forming? Anyway, i decided to rest the pots after the flush for an entire week, and today i started using nutes again. I used 0.25ml BioBizz Grow per LT for both Strains, while i used 1ML/LT BioBizz Bloom for S3, and 1.5ML/LT BioBizz Bloom for S2. I fed S2 with 3 Liters, S3 with 2 liters. Runoff was 30% S2, 25% S3. S2 got a RO PH of about 6.3 (previous was 6.1 without nutes). S3 got a RO PH of about 6.5 (previous was 6.5 without nutes). Since the buildup is drastically decreasing, I'll keep using this low-nute solution until the plants show signs of deficiencies, like @Cannabissapean tipped me to. You can always increase nutes, but decreasing is a pain in the ass And now... Some photos! I took a photo of S2 outside the tent because i wanted to show you the color of her leaves. They're so Dark Green i'm wondering what could it be. I am also convinced now that S2 is an automatic. She started flowering on her own, and.. well, you'll see in the picture! S3: S2: And her main bud: She's so sticky and fruity.. This is gonna wreck me.
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    Day9 12/12 and stretch has slowed and first fruit formation is starting to show so I'm going to say day 1 of flower ( I look at it best to be a week over than cutting too short) this is the first time I see the plants react to the light before I put on flower I used to open tent lights out and see them fast asleep! Now in flower you can see them fast asleep soon as lights come on but after half hour the leaves are praying for the light after 10hrs light they are getting ready for sleep time. Group photo is taken about 40 mins after lights on. I've got a sample bottle of terpenez as these are citrus strains I'm goinf to try it but a bit dubious about trying it on tangilope and candy cane and ice from the smell coming out of the unopened bottle smells like it will enhance the citrus smell but worried it will give say a Chem og a sweet citrus flavour instead of the gassy fuel. Would do side by side test but already making 3 different mixes is a chore in itself in the limited time I get to spend with them. Outside temps have dropped so in tent temp has levelled to 25c lights on and 20c night. Debating whether to mix hps with my led which will help raise the temps a little bit make temp difference between day and night a bit wider so may not be a good idea plus I've got a lot running off one circuit so don't want to over power it!
  29. 4 likes
    42 days of 12/12 and all going fairly well. All 5 plants are really gaining weight now.
  30. 4 likes
    Some more photos about Hindu Kush, even mosquitoes want to smoke haha
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    Hello, Just keeping on top of things whilst I had a little time to spare. I re-potted the 4 GHSC strains into their final 11ltr pots as majority of them (3) needed watering far more often and I do not like paying daily visits to the outhouse for security reasons. Besides, I felt they needed a larger pot size as growth has been rapid indicating that the root system was well formed. The White Widow is still behind the rest (as you will see by appearance and root development) but it is coming on, The two Autos are flying and will stay in their existing pots (approx 6ltrs & 7ltrs) and I am very pleased with the other three, Kalashikova, Super Bud & The Doctor. KALASHNIKOVA AT 14 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): SUPER BUD AT 13 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): THE DOCTOR AT 14 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): WHITE WIDOW AT 13 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): I have not yet topped the 4 GHSC strains between the 4th and 5th leaf set as planned and 3 of the plants are at that stage of growth already but I am not totally satisfied that the 5th leaf set is developed enough and I will wait a few days. The same process will be carried out on the White Widow too but only when it is at the same stage (between 4th & 5th leaf sets) as the other 3 GHSC strains. The 2 Autos are 19 days old today and have very quickly turned back up after being bent over and most of the under shoots have all shot up well. Had a slight tweak with the layout again and the big CF, which is doing a great job as they are smelly now, has been moved from the center as I was not happy with the placement of the 2 LED units. I am happy with the placement now and the LED unit have plenty of space for movement. You will also notice that, now all are in their final pots, I will be very crowed when they all grow out so LST and training under the SCROG net has to be very thoughtful and precise. The SCROG net can be slid so final height is yet to be decided. You will also notice there is a lot of blue light on one of the pictures, this is simply because only the "Veg" switch was on just on one LED unit while I did the work (security reasons) and the other picture had no lights at all for a very short time. NEW LAYOUT & CROWDED: Feeding (nutes) has been gentle with just 1/8 strength Greenfuse Root and Greenfuse Grow which was fed today in their final pots. From now on, no more Greenfuse Root and only Greenfuse Grow will be fed at 1/4 strength then see what the plants tell me. I plan to introduce a very weak mix of Herculean Harvest (Nectar for the Gods) during late veg as recommended but this will all depend on the condition of the plants. Anyway, overall I am very pleased with progress and the only disappointment was not being able to top most of the GHSC strains today whilst in the tent but I will not chop too early as they are simply not ready to be chopped. Any comments, advice and guidance is always greatly appreciated and thanks for looking in.
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    Hydrogen Peroxide and Horticulture By Bryce Fredrickson Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a clear sharp smelling substance very similar in appearance to water (H2O). Like water it is made up of Hydrogen (H2) and Oxygen (O2), however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement. It is this extra atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 has been used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This article isn't about any of these; instead it will concentrate on horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening. What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do? H2O2 is an unstable molecule, when it breaks down a single oxygen atom and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another O- atom forming a stable Oxygen molecule or attack a nearby organic molecule. Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. This is the method by which H2O2 is beneficial. Pre treating the water supply with H2O2will drive out the Chlorine many cities use to sterilize it. This will also degrade any pesticides or herbicides that might be present as well as any other organic matter. Well water can be high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by Oxygen, the free Oxygen H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) in the system preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases. Over Watering Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water. In a Hydroponic system the cause is a more direct simple lack of oxygen in the solution; this may be from inadequate circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures also interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve in the water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended. The same symptoms will appear as with soil plants but you can also check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish color with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginning of a serious problem. An organic, ‘dirt like’ rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot they eat Oxygen out of the water, as Oxygen levels are even further depleted more roots die, a viscous circle may be well under way. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures both encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi. The plants may still be saved but you will have to work fast. How Hydrogen Peroxide prevents root rot/over watering. When plants are watered with H2O2 it will break down and release Oxygen into the area around the roots. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic system H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system. How to use it. H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical. Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 12 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day. Where to get it. 35% food grade: called food grade because it has no toxic impurities. Of course your local hydroponics retailer, whom you can locate over the web.(there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water. 3%5%, 8% Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters. What to do if you already have root rot. In Dirt: Use peroxide water with an anti-fungicide and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for root growth. Or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in regrowing roots and is strongly recommended. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot. This sound like bad idea, but it flushes out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry. In Hydro: Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand you should pull them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Increase aeration of the water, get an air pump and air stones, or more of them, for the reservoir. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Models that will do from forty to four hundred stones are available. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilty plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy. Summary The key to big productive plants is a big healthy root system and Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops. Additional info Quote:How much to add US Standard 1.28*G/C= Liquid Oz's per day Metric 10*L/C= Ml per day C= % concentration of H2O2 L= Number of liters in reservoir G= Number of Gallons in reservoir Example: How much 3% H202 should I add to 7 gallons of nutes? 1.28*7/3=2.986 Oz's each day. Quote:Hydrogen Peroxide breaks down to hydrogen and oxygen within 3 days of being added either to a hydroponic solution or a soilmix. There is no residual with it, it becomes oxygen and hydrogen gas. It is not un-natural in the least, it forms the basic building blocks of life, its just a stable liquid form of oxygen. The additional chloroplastic activity as a result of the chlorophyll deeping will give you much thicker stems and larger leaves, with much deeper green. Yes the plants can absorb more light. the solution will also be much cleaner as the organic matter is oxidized to make...oxygen happy growing, john
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    Hi All, I'm a newby grower. I've recently started a new grow with seeds bought from a seedbank (current grow is nearing completion - 2 bag seeds, no idea of strain). Anyhoo, I have germinated feminized four seeds: Dutch Kush; Duch Dragon; Nebula; and White Berry (all from Paradise Seeds). All four germinated in soggy tissue although the White Berry was a very small seed and had only just cracked when I planted into 'TROPIC BAT MIX'. They're in a 0.6m x 0.9m x 0.6m Bay 6 tent under a 125w CFL (Blue). Humidity is ~ 80% and temp ~ 83°F. Dutch Kush and Nebula are bottom left and bottom right respectively. I'm going to be using the Shogun range of fertilizers, although not for a while as the Tropic Bat Bix should do for the next 4-5 weeks I think.
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    It means GRAMS PER WATT @Cindytherefore as an example, if you have 250watt and your final dry yield is 250grams (8.92oz) you will have achieved 1 GRAM PER WATT and likewise, if you got a final dry yield of 195grams (6.96oz) you will have achieved 0.78 GRAMS PER WATT with the same light. BUT, despite using the same lights, every grow WILL NOT be the same for anyone so it is impossible to determine yield in advance. Wet weights are pointless so no need wasting time on this too.....its just as pointless as trying to estimate the final yield at anytime before the plant is done to the point of totally dry and smokable. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news @Cindybut I do not think even the best growers in the world with optimal conditions achieve, on a regular basis, 459grams (16.39oz) PER PLANT. Those weights are "freaks" in my opinion but the do exist and in very few and fair between occasions. @ShaggyGrower, I usually grow 5 plants at a time with 5ish weeks veg. I have as many as 7 plants in there but 2 of those were "experiments" as there were purposefully abused so they kept tiny as I did not want to throw them because anything from them is more for my jars. VEG is 18/6 for 5ish weeks as I said and FLOWER is initially, 12/12 for about 4 weeks then decreasing by about 30mins per week so on week 8 of flower so I finish on a 14/10 light schedule with that being 14 dark and 10 hours light. For what I spend in electric it worries me nothing and I have no complains at all. It is 375watts when in FLOWER and LESS than that in VEG so it is nothing and I would have no issues running 375watts all day every day if need be. Light distance, VEG about 1mtr and FLOWER is about half of that....20" and with me that gives me enough spread to cover all the plants in my 1.2m floor area. Nutrients as always are Growth Technology's Ionic range for soil (Plant Magic Supreme) including, Ionic Grow &Bloom, Ionic Cal-Mag, Ionic PK and also Nectar for the Gods Herculean Harvest. No CO2, no need on small grows such as most like ours and very hard to get right, plus very costly if doing it right, so why the need when I for example am perfectly happy with my yield without it. Conditions are key and regular fresh air circulation is crucial and never vent into the same room. Like I said @Cindy, I would be leaving the 12/12 until the net is at least 70% then 12/12 and you will fill the rest up easy with both vertical and horizontal grow. Got to remember that you need the upward growth so that all those heads will end up looking like big thick solid buddage about 8" to 10" above the net. Last thing you want is an under-filled net with no more stretch left in the plants because you switched to 12/12 too early. 70% as above and if there, switch.
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    Hey man, Wanted to answer you this morning but had to run earlier due to an inconvenient at the work place. Thank you for always giving me tips and hints. My mind is becoming a post-it encyclopedia. I have the small problem i cannot switch on 160w+160w alltogether, so placing only 2 timers wont do the trick for me. I need my lights to switch on one by one, so that on the counter it seems like people is waking up, instead of starting the grow room. That's my big issue with timers. I cannot set 8 individual timers either, i'm missing 6 electric sockets. I guess in my next run i'll start using only 160 watts, turning on 80 then other 80. I'll figure out how to add the other watts later. I really don't want to get caught because of electricity bills.. I also wanted to say that S2 is nearing her last days. I've taken off a small, small flower from the lowest branches, waited 36 hours, and then smoked it. It came out as a 0.1g, but MAN she can make herself heard. Taste is sweet, almost like chewing a lemon-strayberry candy. It is also pretty strong. I rolled a tinyjoint (almost a cig) but left me high for about 2 hours or so. I knew she was going to blast me.
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    Little recap of what i've understood so far, so everyone reading INCLUDING ME has a clear view of what's going on in the kitchen. I'm losing my mind a bit. Things i learned for a SOIL GROW - PH is super important. DON'T FUCK WITH IT, and respect schedules :3 - Drainage is also very important. Square and round pots, with flat floors, are BAD at draining. No matter how many holes you do on them, they keep sucking at their best. - Drainage should be done with perlite, or similar products. Use Clay Pebbles ONLY AND IF their PH is around 6.5, and only if you can't find Perlite. It is true that clay pebbles drain, but thet also retain SOME water. I figured out that they can also retain nutrients, so that can cause a nute block, or lead to a PH issue. - Time schedule. BUY THE F*****G TIMERS! Don't rely on you waking up AS I DO. Either way, i follow the schedule with alarms. - Light schedule. This is where things got interesting for me. Most of us use single lamps, with some extra cfl here and there. I use 8 led lights (4 x 35W 6500K; 4 x 45W full spectrum), and can regulate each lamp height, in an area of about 56x58x154cm (Yes, i fucked up building my grow box LOL). - Airflow is necessary, but can be catastrophic. Airflow needs to be uniform, if you buy a 130m3 extractor, make sure you buy 2 of those, for intake and extraction, indeed. Different extractors will only cause trouble. Make sure to have also 2 fans pointing at your buds: you don't want all the humid and hot air stagnate around them, or mold and other funky and fuzzy shit will appear. - Saucers. Oh, boy. Saucers are the worst, worst thing we could ever imagine to craft. They're flat, they're really hard to handle if they're, like, 1/3 full, and you'll STILL END UP SPILLING SOME ON THE FLOOR. Every-single-goddamn-time. This is gonna be a guide-in-a-guide. How to resolve the saucer issue (in my case): . Elevate the pots to a height of approx 30cm, with a self-standing net. . Place a square 54x54 tray underneath the net, to a height of approx 25cm. The tray also needs to be self-standing, and handcrafted. It needs to be inclined to some degree, so the water can flow to its center. In the middle, make a hole of 1cm in diameter. . Under the hole, place a GODDAMN BUCKET. . Proceed watering. - PESTS. Never give up on them. They WILL come back. Don't expect an easy victory, they're going to laugh at your hard work. If you have the chance, clean your enviroment like a mad man (or ma'am), and make very sure you've disinfected your soil. I didn't. They noticed. I didn't notice them. They thrived. I suffered. I fought hard, and at last.. They're still here, but in greatly reduced numbers, and much, much more stupid. Neem oil fucks the shit out of their brains. Spider mites wander around the leaves, without leaving webs, eggs, or other things. Sometimes they stop, then start walking again, then stop, but never bite. But neem oil doesn't kill them all. There are TONS of pesticides that do a better job in far less days. - And, at last, don't write updates when you had a bad day, or you're high, or both. This is what you'll end up with. What i'm going to do with this grow: - I've set S2 Harvest day at 18, or 25 November. - I'm going to change the feeding schedule for both plants, starting from now: . S2 will only receive water from now until harvest day. I want to be extra-sure that all the nutes have been flushed out before harvesting. Don't want my buds to taste too chemical. . S3 is going to have 2 weeks of low-strenght-flushing with water and very diluted cal-mag (i'll try to ajust this to approx. 0.25ML/LT), in preparation for the BioBizz Heaven (which should come around 18 November). I heard it is a good product that helps to eliminate toxins accumulated during stress periods, and OH BOY did i stress those girls. I'll then feed her regularly, but add the heaven once every 2 feedings. . S3 is set to be harvested 20 December, but she is looking so bad i'm having doubts she will survive the growth. She doesn't smell good at all, but if you touch her she does really smell of citrus. Weird, weird plant. What i think i'm going to harvest: - S2 will approximately weigh 20 grams dry, but she'll be the most potent among the 2. - S3 will approximately weigh 35 grams dry, if she survives this bad phase. What will i do after this grow: - I'll NUKE the place with everything. Alcohol, pesticides, cats, flamethrowers.. Whatever it takes to get rid of the infesting species that live in my room, without paying the rent! - I saved myself 30ish seeds from different weeds i bought while growing. Some of them have their own bag, because they came from really, really good tasting weeds. I am going to try to plant 2 reallygoodtastingweed seeds, and 2 mehnotsobadweed seeds. For a comparison, S2 came from a weed that tasted badly, but kept you high for hours. What i think is that it was either harvested too early, or cured very, very badly. S3 came instead from a good tasting weed, but i don't think i've ever had so many problems with one plant in my lifetime as with her. Maybe i forgot something in the way, but i've got to say i've also been extremely unlucky with pests. - I will choose the best looking out of the 4. - Meanwhile, i'll buy a pack of *any* indica seeds. I need them to be Low, but capable of melting your wires. - I'll germinate 3 of them, and see what i can get out of those 4 plants. Tomorrow i'll start the new schedule, and post some pictures. Cheers!
  37. 3 likes
    Heyo, Small update. Since @Cindy brought up the idea of a metallic net underneath the pots, i've been working on building one myself. And i succeeded! It works! Of course, now i'm going to have to figure out how to collect the run off water beneath the pots when i water. But i managed to give the girls a good 10cm of height from the ground. This will help A LOT to create a flow in the small, cramped cabinet i built. Thank you Cindy, for giving MY cindy some fresh air with a fresh idea! I also crafted some reflectors. Well, i like to call these De-flectors, since they don't reflect much at all! But, in this way, my eyes will not melt each time i open this heaven, and now there's no excess light outside the cabinet (which is a big up against too-curious eyes). Anyway, a photo credit beneath: On the left, my Cindy, with an Iron Deficiency. Next feeding will be 0.5ML/LT cal-mag only, then resuming and alternating between BBG/BBB and cal-mag each 3-4 days. On the right, Rebecca. I don't know if my eyes are mistaken (usually not), but she is putting out colour! On the side of the bud leaves, she has this Blood Red tint, while is getting coloured yellow (not sick) inside, as if she was turning orange/purple. I'll post a photo tomorrow of this, when i feed her and have a better chance to look at her up-close. I know that if she shows colour ON the leaf (red, purple, blu-ish, etc) she has a good chance of being a Kush.. But what about her SIDES? I've never seen that before in my short life. Well, see you tomorrow. Peace!
  38. 3 likes
    I recently cracked open a jar of weed I have been curing for 2years! It was amazing the high was awesome and it maintained the sweet smell. Its a elePhant stomper pheno Has a grapey chemy smell, reddish color, it doesn't look like much but it is amazing! I hadn't Smoked in 4months and last night I decided to smoke a bowl of it. Very happy with its results! Long story short it was part of a breeding project. I no longer have a place to grow and I am so sad not to be able to test the seeds.
  39. 3 likes
    hello friends here's news of the small 4 weeks ago of blooms, I have not yet put fertilizer blooming here are some small foto
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    Hello as you can see this is how much I have taken off my plants
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    Hey Gang, Just starting in the field of my dreams after 35 years of prohibition and hiding!! Hope to meet all of you someday!!!
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    Thanks for the comments Jose.gh and g22. I think they're getting there (see photo's), although not sure how many weeks to go and I'm wondering when to start the two-weeks-prior-to-harvest flushing/nutrient change.
  43. 3 likes
    To finish out this Series I will include two more videos from NVclosetmedgrower: Bonus Video #1: How to Extract: Bubble Hash https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFz41CDHg4g and Bonus Video #2: How to make Moon Rocks! - DIY Connoisseur Quality Cannabis Caviar Buds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rieOVgCA5xk I hope you have enjoyed the Series.
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    How to Grow Part 6, Middle to Late Flower. The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline. -Day 21 of Flower, pot is light-weight and it’s time to feed again, but before that, flush. The plant is flushed with 5 gallons of RO-water @6.0pH. After that it receives its first full-flower feeding. It is important during flowering, that every opportunity should be used to assess the plant for toxicities. The trichomes have begun, so the sugars will also be increased. -The full-flowering solution consists of: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 3 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp (not Tablespoon) Molasses, 1/3 tsp (not Tablespoon) Honey, pinch Epsom Salts, 2 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 6 ml Bloom, 5 ml KoolBloom, resulting in 1000PPM. Multiply was not mentioned, therefore believed to be left out. -Day 25 of Flower, full-flower feeding again, exactly the same as the solution fed on Day 21. Multiply was not mentioned, therefore believed to be left out. -Day 28 of Flower, faint tip-burn detected, meaning probably near to the max nutrients for this plant. Slight yellowing of the leaves indicates the Nitrogen is a bit low. Full-flowering Solution is tweaked a little bit: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 5 ml CalMag, 1 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch of Epsom Salt, 1 ml Grow, 2 ml Micro, 3 ml Bloom, 3 ml KoolBloom, 2 drops of Multiply to raise the Nitrogen again. -Day 32 of Flower, blooms are growing and yellowing is still seen on the leaves. Full-flowering solution today is: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, 1.5 ml Grow, 2 ml Micro, 2.5 ml Bloom, 4 ml KoolBloom, pinch of Epsom Salt. -Day 35 of Flower, time to feed again. The plant is in a new grow-tent under the 150-Watt HPS, next to another plant that is under a 600-Watt HPS (equipment upgrade). Feeding solution is: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch Epsom Salt, 2 ml Grow, 3 ml Micro, 4 ml Bloom, 6 ml KoolBloom. No Multiply. Tomato cage added after the filming. -Day 39 of Flower, Trichome production is discussed. (clear => cloudy => amber). It is expected that harvest is 3 or 4 weeks away, so flush planning is discussed. “Target harvest day is Day 63. Flushing should be performed for two weeks before harvest, so flush should be started on Day 49.” Plant is further assessed for deficiencies and toxicities. Feeding solution adjusted in hopes to make corrections. Feeding solution: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+(last application for this plant), ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch Epsom Salt, 2 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 6 ml Bloom, 6 ml KoolBloom. -Day 42 of Flower, one week away from flush, plant looks great but she is thirsty. Now in Late-Flower, the buds are formed; now the plant will work on filling-in the flowers with weight. Possible calcium deficiency detected, so the feeding solution is changed using a little more CalMag: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 7 ml CalMag, no Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch Epson Salt, 2 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 6 ml Bloom, 6 ml KoolBloom. Using microscope camera, he sees that Trichomes are 40% clear and 60% cloudy. -Day 44 of Flower, fed with solution exactly same as that of Day 42. At this late-flowering phase, just keep feeding, reading deficiencies, and feeding. -Day 47 of Flower, projected day of flush is Day 49. Plant fed again with solution exactly same as that of Day 42, resulting in 1050 PPM. -Day 49 of Flower, flush day. Just a few amber Trichomes (3 – 5%), perfect for begin of flushing. By harvest, the ambers should be around 50%. More than 50% amber Trichomes, the plant begins to degrade and re-absorb the Trichomes. -At flush, 6 to 8 gallons of RO-water pH’d to 6,0 will be pushed through the 3-gallon pot over time. Reasons for flush is discussed. Plant is flushed. -Day 54 of Flower, plant is a bit dry, 1-galon of 6.0 pH’d water is fed. -Day 56 of Flower, plant is frosty and beautiful. Plant is flushed again with 4 to 5 gallons 6,0 pH’d water. Further flushing after this will not need to be pH’d. Anywhere between 6.0 and 8.0 is acceptable. -Day 59 of Flower, fed 1 gallon of RO-water, not pH’d. The purple is showing in the leaves. -Day 61 of Flower, purple and yellow autumn colors are showing. Plant fed 1 more gallon of water, last watering. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEM_2B5EF-s&index=6&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71
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    Hey guys time for an update, it is now the end of week 19 and yesterday it was cloudy and sunny in the morning but the weather forcast was for showers at lunch time, so about 11.00am I took some photos of the plants and then I gave them both 9 litres of water each and checked the PH of the run off which was 6. Within minutes of watering the plants it started raining so I quickly moved them into the shed under the flourescent lights with the large fan running to move air around, due to the fact the rain was light showers I was able to leave the shed door open to help keep the humidity down and I left the fan running over night as well. Here are some images I took yesterday. Both of the Passion #1 gals outside in back yard Close up of the top of the stalky plant. Top of the leafy plant. The plants are now ready to harvest I can see plenty of amber trichomes so after lunch today they go the chop and I harvested both plants. Both Passion #1 plants harvested bud hanging on stalks drying. Passion #1 charas. I have had a little smoke of the charas in a single skinner with some fan leaves (I&I quit smokin shag) and it has a nice vibe, a good strong body feeling, but the high is an elevation of conciousness, with charas the hit is like a silk thread that slowly and gently vanishes away, its the cream of the crop. So there was 650g of fan leaves, stalky produced 750g of bud and leafy produced 600g of bud, but remember these weights are wet and the bud is still on the stalks at the moment while the bud is drying, in 7 days I will strip the bud off the stalks and trim as required and then I will put it in Kilner jars, I only have one at the moment so I need to go and buy and few more. In total bud and stalk for both plants is 1350g or about 26 ounces, so I should end up with just under a pound of herb once dried I am well chuffed. Updates to follow happy growing guys. Gasmeter Likkle more
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    Vampire Kush Auto Day 20. Purpling. BMG
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    Harvesting, Drying & Curing Step by Step The following artical was copied and pasted from Grasscity.comI have been asked a number of times about harvesting and curing. I understand that there are as many ways to cure Marijuana as there are Marijuana strains. It seems that no two growers do it alike. From harvest day to bong. Here is my method: I can't tell you the exact time to chop your plant down. Some research can tell you how long to flower your strain for best results or you can check trichome color. Either way, you will have to do a bit of trial and error to find the very best day to chop the girls down. At day 60 my White Widow shows a mixture of trichome colors. Most of them will be milky or amber, with a small percent of clear ones scattered about. Use a jeweler's loupe/magnifying glass of 20x magnification or more. A small pocket microscope can be bought at RadioShack: I have grown this strain long enough to know that day 60 gives the best flavor and effect. Day 60. My single plant grow: Time to chop it down: Even if you can take the whole plant in one single cut, I would break it up into large sections. This is so it can get lots of air while drying (branches won't be touching). I take one cola/branch at a time. It is very important to take your time and be gentle in every step of harvesting. It's a good idea to always be gentle with your weed at any stage. Manhandling your bud will cause the trichomes to break off (you don't want that). Using a pair of Fiskars® Softouch Micro-Tip Scissors, I take the first of many branches: Noticed I put on rubber gloves? Get a box of them at the drug store. They are a must have item. You will not get that sap off your hands for days no matter what you wash with. Tie some twist ties or line to the end: I like to hang the branch over a bucket or trash-can: Pluck off all the sun leaves and any leaf that is big enough to pull off (without hurting the bud). They can be easily removed by snapping them off while pulling up or you can use scissors: You don't have to get them all. Just get what you can and save the rest for your "Trim-Party". Before: After: As you finish, stack them on a near by table: Dry Time: Try and find a cool, dark, preferably ventilated space such as a closet, basement, or winter attic. I have no such space at my home, so I use the attic all year. It is dark and ventilated but not always cool. Works anyway. Try and hang all the branches so they don't touch anything: A small oscillating fan on low will help things along real nice: Place all the leaf in a few paper bags and place them in the same space as the hanging branches. Leave bag open. TRIM-PARTY! Let them hang for three days (72 hours). After three days they my feel real dry or real damp. It does not matter. Note: You might want to stir the bag of leaves after a day or so. They tend to be real wet. Three days later. So sad the big bud is so small now: Let's get this party started. Lay out all your trim gear. A trim tray (cookie sheet will work), rubber gloves, micro-tip scissors, large paper grocery bags, small brown lunch bags and a few razors (to clean the scissors). Music helps or someone to talk to. It becomes un-fun in 15 minutes (trust me). Most the water has evaporated out of the branches. Before: After: Time to manicure and finish your trimming. This task takes some time and a whole lot of patients. Take a branch and start at the bottom, cutting off all leaves and bud leaf tips. After your get all the big leaves off, pretend you are giving a slight trim to the whole bud. The very tips of the bud leaves will cause the smoke to be harsh, so just do a slight trim all around. Before: After: Now clip the buds off the main stem. Glad that's over: Brown Bag Um: Get a few brown grocery bags and a pack of brown lunch bags. Shred the brown lunch bags (not confetti but strips). I bought a cheap shredder to make strips from the lunch bags: Now lay down a layer of bud at the bottom of the grocery bag (one bud thick): Place a layer of the bag strips over the top of your bud: Place another layer of bud on top of the strips: Keep making layers until the grocery bag is full. Your last layer should be strips: Place your grocery bags in a cool dry place for two days. Churn/mix the bud and strip layers gently and place back for another one or two days: Your bud may look over dry or a little crisp when done. Over dry is much much better then moist. The texture and smell will come back while curing in the jars. Your bud is smoke-able but harsh until cured in jars. The longer it stays in the jar, the smoother the smoke and the stronger the smell. I like the 32oz wide mouth Ball mason jars. They can be found at every grocery store, but next to impossible to locate the isle they are on. Look hard: Don't pack the bud in the jar. Fill them up about 80% to 90%. You can get close to an ounce of small buds in a jar (could be wrong about this fact). Less if they are bigger bud: If the bud it a bit too long, don't squish it or bend it. Just cut it up: After your jars are filled, take a break (you need it): Always store your jars in a cool, dark, and safe location. Light is bad for your weed. Try to remember to open each jar twice a week for the first month. Leave it open for a few minutes and seal it back up. I don't always do this (I forget), but it makes a difference. It's also a good idea to check for mold while opening each one. We can never wait the month that is recommended for jar curing. But it does get much better as time passes. After a month it is killer.
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    Y ahora una foto de los esquejes Hay K+ en un contenedor de porexpan reciclado de una pescadería xDDD, de 80 litros Sand Storm, GWS, White Widow, Kritical + y Jack Herer. Todas menos una Sand que está en maceta de 50 litros están en Texpot de 50 litros también. No están llenos para ganar un pelín en altura y no exponer tampoco demasiado el sustrato. Arlita lavada de drenaje y tierra comercial de grow. Sin abono extra. Me estoy dedicando a doblar para ganar altura y frondosidad en los esquejes. Un saludote, espero que os gusten!! En unos días más
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    MONEY MAKER The hydro's are still on the same solution. The soil plants still only on water because no feedings needed yet. This was it for Day 45 of Veg. Thank you all for passing by and the nice comments Peace

About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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