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Showing most liked content on 09/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
    hello, seed blue emerald feminised de novastore 600w hps soil house and garden ligth mix + perlite nutritions canna mineral ,rhizotonic ,canna vegas ,canna flores,canna pk13 ,canna booster,cannazym pot 18L extraction 800m3 heures intraction 400 m3 heures
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    The ec levels of nutrients in most brands are different at different growth stages. The nutrient schedules are normally given at max strengths for the different growth stages. Use a hydroponic nutrient not organic for DWC. peace
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    Something like these: https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_odkw=mechanical+timer+switch&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xelectrical+mechanical+timer+switch.TRS0&_nkw=electrical+mechanical+timer+switch&_sacat=0
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    You would be looking for an "electric/mechanical" timer switch similar to this: https://www.google.de/search?q=household+electric+mechanical+timers+bilder&client=firefox-b&dcr=0&tbm=isch&imgil=HHLGtzKozBUleM%3A%3B408YM649OBNsUM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fbhp%252Fmechanical-timer-switch&source=iu&pf=m&fir=HHLGtzKozBUleM%3A%2C408YM649OBNsUM%2C_&usg=__1hk9W93xNcV3c8Ha53IcjTft9jc%3D&biw=1600&bih=791&ved=0ahUKEwjC1KiunbjWAhUFWhQKHeAbDwMQyjcISA&ei=PbbEWYLCN4W0UeC3vBg#imgrc=HHLGtzKozBUleM: There are also "electrical/digital" timer switches available, but they are too expensive and unnecessary for your purpose. Make sure it is rated for 220-Volts (230-Volts is the same rating). When you look at the ring of little switches used for setting the on-and-off times, the better one to get has four tiny switches for every hour. Most likely you will find a timer switch that is suitable for 24-hour settings. This type is called a "DAY-Timer" or "24-hour Timer". That is the type that you want. It allows you to set the on-and-off times for a single day, and as it runs, it will control the lamp the same for each and every day. There is another type that you should NOT get. It is called a "Weekly-Timer". A Weekly-Timer allows you to set timings for 7 different days, that way, each day you can set differently. This is too much, and they are sometimes more expensive.
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    Mangotree, I promised to send you a picture of a grow where the mylar is used to increase the reflectivity within the grow area. This mylar material can also help you to retain the moisture within the grow area as well. Of course, you would need to create some kind of frame, and the use of duct tape or similar materials would be important in order to kelp keep the grow area as air-tight as possible, although it will need to have a little circulation. So here it is: It is found in g22's journal in his post on Tuesday, 20 Sept 2017:
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    Hello everyone! I'm here to learn a lot from you. Thank you very much for letting me be part of your community!
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    Welcome to StrainHunters Paula 93. There is certainly a lot to see in here, and I see you have already jumped right in and posted in Robbo's thread about extractions. Continue exploring the site and having fun learning. Let me know if you have any questions. Cannabissapean
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    Mangotree, The following picture is that from a friend of mine in another part of the world. I show it to you as an encouragement for you. These are 4 plants, blue dream, blue OG, purple trainwreck and one other. These flowers are still many weeks away from harvest. They still need to stretch and expand, which I am sure will happen in his excellent care. I want you to look at the walls of his tent. This is a reflective surface called the diamond effect. If you surround your future plants with something similar, it will help you to deliver more lumens to your plant. Without a reflective surface similar to this, the light energy from your lamps will be wasted as light that goes into the rest of the grow-room. A really inexpensive source for a similar reflective material is a couplle mylar rescue blankets, often used by rescue teams when they need to help a victim stay warm. if you can get some of that stuff, and then wad it up a couple times, the wadding action will create the thousands of wrinkles that will simulate the diamond effect. If you can surround your lighted area with such a material and if you can tape it together, that will also help somewhat to keep the moisture from escaping so fast. If you cannot get the mylar, then matte white paint will do also good. Better than nothing. White matte will reflect all wavelengths. A little food for thought as you advance your grow set-up. https://postimg.org/image/wv6k8x0e7/
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    Wow, you have a lot of conditions to meet, so let's get started. First of all, you are absolutely right. You should have fun doing this. It is fun, but to avoid frustrations, you must realize that you must be patient. Seeds dont crack and stand up if they dont have the right conditions. Because you are supplying the ENTIRE environment, water, light and nutrients for the plant, YOU are the plant's Mother Nature. So don't start germinating a seed until you are fully prepared to provide what the plant needs well in advance. You want to do this as inexpensively as possible, so that rules out hydroponics and the other methods that are costly-equipment based. You want to grow in soil medium. Soil: Cannabis grows best in a soil that is not dense, but rather, drains well. The soil should drain well in order to allow oxygen to get to the roots soon after you have watered the plant. Any soil that does not drain well will basically close-up around the roots and asphyxiate the roots. Avoid dense soils (soils that look like after you add water that they would turn into concrete). If you want to purchase a soil-base that is specifically formulated for cannabis, there are mixes made by Plagron or Bio-Bizz or Ocean Forest or Happy Frog, and there are many many more. If you want to buy from a gardening store or home improvement store, you can start with a good potting soil (pH around 6,0 to 6,5) but WITHOUT added or time-released nutrients. These potting soils should have a little Perlite in them for drainage, so peek inside the bag to check. Perlite is a very light-weight, white-colored, heat-expanded clay or silicon. It readily accepts water and allows the water to flow through it immediately. If you cannot get soils with perlite already in them, then it can also be bought separately. It is sometimes found in gardening centers, but it is ALSO found in construction materials stores and is used there as an additive to lighten the weight of cement mixes when a floor is to be poured where floor-heating systems are to be installed. Two alternatives to perlite that work almost as well are expanded clay (Ton-Balls) readily available in most all gardening stores (used often for orchids or bromelaids), use the smaller sizes. And Lava Rock can be used, but it must be the smaller size, 6mm and smaller for adding to soil. Lava Rock is heavier, but it will help somewhat with drainage through the soil if the other materials cannot be found. (Lava Rock about 15mm size is excellent for another purpose, I'll discuss that later.) Potting soils with added or time-released nutrients (such as Miracle-Gro) can cause toxicities for cannabis because the nutrient-levels will spike unexpectedly from time to time at often the wrong times for cannabis. Amendments to the soil: Cannabis enjoys to absorb the by-products from the rotting of other plants that have lived before it, in other words - compost. That does NOT mean freshly chopped-up green plant materials, NOR freshly chopped-up dead plant materials. No no no. It must already be rotted away. Something like black, fully-rotted leaf material or well-finished compost materials, preferrably that black material full of microbes where you actually see earthworms. (The dung from the earthworms is EXACTLY what plants love. You can also buy Earthworm-Humus at your local garden store or home improvement store and use that as an additive.) I run 6 composters for my yard-work and kitchen waste, and I always have ample compost and earthworms. If you have a friend who has a composter, that would be a great source. There are many other amendments that we could discuss, but compost is a great start. If you want to really study-up on soils for cannabis, then google or youtube "supersoil for cannabis". There are many good recipes for supersoil. Read a few of them, and if you find some components that are readily available to you, then add some, just not too much of any one of them. Lighting: You mentioned that you wanted to use "not much light". Well, cannabis is a photosynthesis-based lifeform. Not much light will mean not much growth. And you need to know one more thing about cannabis. It is sensitive to photoperiod, that means it GROWS best when it receives about 18 or more hours of light each day, and it will begin making its flowers when it receives less than 14 hours of light per day (Under controlled conditions, most of us growers use 12/12). Autoflowering plants will begin making flowers generally regardless of the photoperiod, but even they will certainly begin flowering when switched to 12/12. If you are considering using the sunlight through your window at this time of the year, be aware that you are doing so while the natural photoperiod in the Northern Hemisphere (Netherlands) is swinging straight into flowering photoperiod, meaning that you will not have very good growth unless you add some lighting. On the cheap, fluorescent lighting can be used (18/6), and they are OK, but the growth is generally slower than lighting requiring greater energy (LEDs or HPS or MH). Each of these involves greater initial equipment cost and greater energy cost. For Fluorescents, in VEGG, you want CoolWhite or Gro-lamps with plenty of blue spectrum (or even an additional UVB Reptile-spectrum tube, caution for your eyes). When you switch over to the flowering Photoperiod, you will also want to change over to a fluorescent Gro-lamp with less blue spectrum and more red spectrum. Feminized is definitely the way to go. Because you want to use low-cost, low-energy lighting, I would definitely steer away from Autos. Autos have a limited lifespan, and if you try to grow an Auto under low light, it will probably begin to die before you have judged it to be of sufficient size to proceed to flowering. You want an uplifting high that doesn't put you to sleep, so avoid Indicas and Kushes. You want a Sativa-based strain, but not a pure sativa. Pure sativas will grow very tall and are generally better grown in bright, sunny, dry, outdoor locations. I would suggest a Sativa/Indica Hybrid where the Sativa is dominant or 50/50%. Without looking at the percentages, I think you would be happy with White Widow or Northern Lights or MoneyMaker, but there are so many good ones. In the store (click on "Products" above, then click on "Buy Seeds", or google "greenhouse seeds" to go to "the other store"), then just click on each strain variety, and the percentages and characteristics of each strain are explained. In "the other store", you can also purchase variety packs of the famous GreenHouse "color-coated seeds". That way you can try a number of different strains coming to you in a single packet. Neat, huh? For ease of use and pH stability, I would recommend using GreenHouse "Hybrid Powderfeeding" or the new GreenHouse "BIO-Enhancement" for soils. The videos are found right here in the forum. Click on "Videos" above. If you are on a smartphone, you will need to change that. Get on a full-sized laptop or a PC, because so much of the forum is not available on mobile devices. Good Luck and have fun.
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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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