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  1. 6 likes
    jojojo, what a nice surprise, many thanks to Jose and everyone at Greenhouse, and to all the winners and the rest of the good people that participated, its been fun. Y un abrazo especial a mi amigo y colega Kenny Kirkland que gracias a su incentivo y apoyo me decidi a participar
  2. 6 likes
    Wow nice thats freakin awesome! Congratz to all! Now chill with the herb that the guys from this forum provides! Y un saludo especial para mi gran colega Atanasius y mi socio Gea, por el enorme trabajo felicidades!!!!
  3. 5 likes
    Thanks SantaBuds Now I'm germinating some new seeds, to see how they come out
  4. 4 likes
    Hydrogen Peroxide and Horticulture By Bryce Fredrickson Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a clear sharp smelling substance very similar in appearance to water (H2O). Like water it is made up of Hydrogen (H2) and Oxygen (O2), however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement. It is this extra atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 has been used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This article isn't about any of these; instead it will concentrate on horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening. What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do? H2O2 is an unstable molecule, when it breaks down a single oxygen atom and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another O- atom forming a stable Oxygen molecule or attack a nearby organic molecule. Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. This is the method by which H2O2 is beneficial. Pre treating the water supply with H2O2will drive out the Chlorine many cities use to sterilize it. This will also degrade any pesticides or herbicides that might be present as well as any other organic matter. Well water can be high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by Oxygen, the free Oxygen H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) in the system preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases. Over Watering Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water. In a Hydroponic system the cause is a more direct simple lack of oxygen in the solution; this may be from inadequate circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures also interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve in the water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended. The same symptoms will appear as with soil plants but you can also check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish color with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginning of a serious problem. An organic, ‘dirt like’ rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot they eat Oxygen out of the water, as Oxygen levels are even further depleted more roots die, a viscous circle may be well under way. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures both encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi. The plants may still be saved but you will have to work fast. How Hydrogen Peroxide prevents root rot/over watering. When plants are watered with H2O2 it will break down and release Oxygen into the area around the roots. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic system H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system. How to use it. H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical. Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 12 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day. Where to get it. 35% food grade: called food grade because it has no toxic impurities. Of course your local hydroponics retailer, whom you can locate over the web.(there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water. 3%5%, 8% Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters. What to do if you already have root rot. In Dirt: Use peroxide water with an anti-fungicide and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for root growth. Or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in regrowing roots and is strongly recommended. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot. This sound like bad idea, but it flushes out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry. In Hydro: Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand you should pull them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Increase aeration of the water, get an air pump and air stones, or more of them, for the reservoir. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Models that will do from forty to four hundred stones are available. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilty plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy. Summary The key to big productive plants is a big healthy root system and Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops. Additional info Quote:How much to add US Standard 1.28*G/C= Liquid Oz's per day Metric 10*L/C= Ml per day C= % concentration of H2O2 L= Number of liters in reservoir G= Number of Gallons in reservoir Example: How much 3% H202 should I add to 7 gallons of nutes? 1.28*7/3=2.986 Oz's each day. Quote:Hydrogen Peroxide breaks down to hydrogen and oxygen within 3 days of being added either to a hydroponic solution or a soilmix. There is no residual with it, it becomes oxygen and hydrogen gas. It is not un-natural in the least, it forms the basic building blocks of life, its just a stable liquid form of oxygen. The additional chloroplastic activity as a result of the chlorophyll deeping will give you much thicker stems and larger leaves, with much deeper green. Yes the plants can absorb more light. the solution will also be much cleaner as the organic matter is oxidized to make...oxygen happy growing, john
  5. 4 likes
    Hi mates, We started a new contest where you can try a known strain, amazing strain: White Rhino We can send 10 feminized seeds and BIO Feeding / Feeding to each grower interested, that meets with the requirements. We would like to make a little contest, about grow diaryes (the work performed and exhibited in the forum). The contest start January 1 and finish June 1 of 2018, you have 5 months for grow, bloom and harvest. Also we have some prizes for the best works 1st prize: IPad 4 mini 2nd prize: T-Shirt + Hoody + 3 Pack of seeds 3rd prize: T-Shirt + Hoody + 3 Pack of seeds The Grow Diaryes, should be initiated at: http://forums.strainhunters.com/forum/212-test-area-white-rhino-contest/ We will be given preference to users of this forum with more seniority, and / or grow diaryes. Limited: Limited participants. Excluded all people who requested seeds in previous editions, and did not do a grow diary, without exception. Do you want to participate? Reply to this post, write your answer: say me how many pots will you use. If you are selected, we will contact you by private message on the forum. IMPORTANT: You can start cultivating at any time, but should start your grow Diary in January. If you can not grow at this months, please not write to be a competitor. You can write.... Now! Cheers
  6. 4 likes
    Hi @Jose.gh, I'd like to be considered as potential grower pls. Granted, I'm going to be way down on the seniority list, and it would be only my 2nd know-what-I'm-growing grow. My First know-what-I'm-growing grow should be finishing up (big tent) while I can get these 20% Sativa / 80% Indica White Rhino going in the propagation tent. 9 weeks flowering, plus 6 weeks veg, plus 2 weeks seedling = 17 weeks total (19 without optimum conditions according to Grow Log with Arjan & Franco). Ending 31st May means germination =< 1st Feb, or 2nd week of Jan, minimum. It works. Having found the forum fairly recently, I already had seeds from another seed bank but really want to try some GHS's, AND I'd really like to try BIO Feeding as well, AND since I'm doing grow diaries, I I'd like to do a grow diary on this forum using your seeds & ferts, so this comp' is right up my alley. Many thanks for the consideration and for the help on the forum. Regs, ShaggyGrower edit: forgot the number of pots. I'll be using four (4) pots in a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.0m tent.
  7. 4 likes
    Some more photos about Hindu Kush, even mosquitoes want to smoke haha
  8. 4 likes
    Hello, Just keeping on top of things whilst I had a little time to spare. I re-potted the 4 GHSC strains into their final 11ltr pots as majority of them (3) needed watering far more often and I do not like paying daily visits to the outhouse for security reasons. Besides, I felt they needed a larger pot size as growth has been rapid indicating that the root system was well formed. The White Widow is still behind the rest (as you will see by appearance and root development) but it is coming on, The two Autos are flying and will stay in their existing pots (approx 6ltrs & 7ltrs) and I am very pleased with the other three, Kalashikova, Super Bud & The Doctor. KALASHNIKOVA AT 14 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): SUPER BUD AT 13 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): THE DOCTOR AT 14 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): WHITE WIDOW AT 13 DAYS OLD TODAY (old pot, root system & new pot): I have not yet topped the 4 GHSC strains between the 4th and 5th leaf set as planned and 3 of the plants are at that stage of growth already but I am not totally satisfied that the 5th leaf set is developed enough and I will wait a few days. The same process will be carried out on the White Widow too but only when it is at the same stage (between 4th & 5th leaf sets) as the other 3 GHSC strains. The 2 Autos are 19 days old today and have very quickly turned back up after being bent over and most of the under shoots have all shot up well. Had a slight tweak with the layout again and the big CF, which is doing a great job as they are smelly now, has been moved from the center as I was not happy with the placement of the 2 LED units. I am happy with the placement now and the LED unit have plenty of space for movement. You will also notice that, now all are in their final pots, I will be very crowed when they all grow out so LST and training under the SCROG net has to be very thoughtful and precise. The SCROG net can be slid so final height is yet to be decided. You will also notice there is a lot of blue light on one of the pictures, this is simply because only the "Veg" switch was on just on one LED unit while I did the work (security reasons) and the other picture had no lights at all for a very short time. NEW LAYOUT & CROWDED: Feeding (nutes) has been gentle with just 1/8 strength Greenfuse Root and Greenfuse Grow which was fed today in their final pots. From now on, no more Greenfuse Root and only Greenfuse Grow will be fed at 1/4 strength then see what the plants tell me. I plan to introduce a very weak mix of Herculean Harvest (Nectar for the Gods) during late veg as recommended but this will all depend on the condition of the plants. Anyway, overall I am very pleased with progress and the only disappointment was not being able to top most of the GHSC strains today whilst in the tent but I will not chop too early as they are simply not ready to be chopped. Any comments, advice and guidance is always greatly appreciated and thanks for looking in.
  9. 3 likes
    Hey ppl how you doing? Well I enter every day to the forum waiting to found this! Yaaaahhyyyy! After 2nd place at last contest I've had keep growing. Some pics of my last indoor grow. Really happy with the powders I won, really great results as you can see. Cheers!
  10. 3 likes
    Hi jose.gh iam intéresed in the contest if i have the chance to participate i should be happy To try your biofeeding lines and i would use 10 pots to grow and 9 to bloom ✌
  11. 3 likes
    It means GRAMS PER WATT @Cindytherefore as an example, if you have 250watt and your final dry yield is 250grams (8.92oz) you will have achieved 1 GRAM PER WATT and likewise, if you got a final dry yield of 195grams (6.96oz) you will have achieved 0.78 GRAMS PER WATT with the same light. BUT, despite using the same lights, every grow WILL NOT be the same for anyone so it is impossible to determine yield in advance. Wet weights are pointless so no need wasting time on this too.....its just as pointless as trying to estimate the final yield at anytime before the plant is done to the point of totally dry and smokable. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news @Cindybut I do not think even the best growers in the world with optimal conditions achieve, on a regular basis, 459grams (16.39oz) PER PLANT. Those weights are "freaks" in my opinion but the do exist and in very few and fair between occasions. @ShaggyGrower, I usually grow 5 plants at a time with 5ish weeks veg. I have as many as 7 plants in there but 2 of those were "experiments" as there were purposefully abused so they kept tiny as I did not want to throw them because anything from them is more for my jars. VEG is 18/6 for 5ish weeks as I said and FLOWER is initially, 12/12 for about 4 weeks then decreasing by about 30mins per week so on week 8 of flower so I finish on a 14/10 light schedule with that being 14 dark and 10 hours light. For what I spend in electric it worries me nothing and I have no complains at all. It is 375watts when in FLOWER and LESS than that in VEG so it is nothing and I would have no issues running 375watts all day every day if need be. Light distance, VEG about 1mtr and FLOWER is about half of that....20" and with me that gives me enough spread to cover all the plants in my 1.2m floor area. Nutrients as always are Growth Technology's Ionic range for soil (Plant Magic Supreme) including, Ionic Grow &Bloom, Ionic Cal-Mag, Ionic PK and also Nectar for the Gods Herculean Harvest. No CO2, no need on small grows such as most like ours and very hard to get right, plus very costly if doing it right, so why the need when I for example am perfectly happy with my yield without it. Conditions are key and regular fresh air circulation is crucial and never vent into the same room. Like I said @Cindy, I would be leaving the 12/12 until the net is at least 70% then 12/12 and you will fill the rest up easy with both vertical and horizontal grow. Got to remember that you need the upward growth so that all those heads will end up looking like big thick solid buddage about 8" to 10" above the net. Last thing you want is an under-filled net with no more stretch left in the plants because you switched to 12/12 too early. 70% as above and if there, switch.
  12. 3 likes
    That is totally dry weight of course, no point in even looking at weights when wet. It really serves no purpose at all other than to disappoint because its certain that you will lose 80% of that weight when it dries. All weights given are totally dry and you will find my grow dairies, with pictures, on here showing those exact grows relating to the weights I have given.
  13. 3 likes
    Hey man, Wanted to answer you this morning but had to run earlier due to an inconvenient at the work place. Thank you for always giving me tips and hints. My mind is becoming a post-it encyclopedia. I have the small problem i cannot switch on 160w+160w alltogether, so placing only 2 timers wont do the trick for me. I need my lights to switch on one by one, so that on the counter it seems like people is waking up, instead of starting the grow room. That's my big issue with timers. I cannot set 8 individual timers either, i'm missing 6 electric sockets. I guess in my next run i'll start using only 160 watts, turning on 80 then other 80. I'll figure out how to add the other watts later. I really don't want to get caught because of electricity bills.. I also wanted to say that S2 is nearing her last days. I've taken off a small, small flower from the lowest branches, waited 36 hours, and then smoked it. It came out as a 0.1g, but MAN she can make herself heard. Taste is sweet, almost like chewing a lemon-strayberry candy. It is also pretty strong. I rolled a tinyjoint (almost a cig) but left me high for about 2 hours or so. I knew she was going to blast me.
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    @Cindy, no need to work out measurement from the plant tops to the SCROG net. Remember, you will need good access under the net when these bushes become much bigger bushes. You have 4 small bushy plants, already topped twice (and thinking of topping again) which will produce already multiple prominent colas without the undergrowth that will shoot up when the net is in place. I would play it his way, forget the net for a week because you said you plan to veg for another 4 weeks so plenty of time. 1, Carry on with the existing LST really exposing the centre of the plant....opening it up so to speak. 2, Have a good defoliation of the lower growth, I remove about 1/3rd of all lower stalks and continue this gently but regularly. 3, Give them a week to 10 days of growing whilst adding/removing/adjusting LST ties until you can see the centre of the plant filling up with new growth coming to join the top canopy. 4, See where you are in 10 days and then think about the SCROG net and remember, you need a nice 12" to play around with under the SCROG net to the tops of the pots. This, ideally, needs to be a clear area, free of growth which will hinder and produce popcorn buds, so whist it is great to have small bushy plants you will need to get a bit of height to them and now is the perfect time. Play with them LST ties for a while longer yet and the SCROG net will have a nice spread of tops to float over which you can feed new growth into for the remaining 2 to 3 weeks veg. Just my opinion like and wish you well
  15. 3 likes
    Hey guys time for an update, it is now the end of week 19 and yesterday it was cloudy and sunny in the morning but the weather forcast was for showers at lunch time, so about 11.00am I took some photos of the plants and then I gave them both 9 litres of water each and checked the PH of the run off which was 6. Within minutes of watering the plants it started raining so I quickly moved them into the shed under the flourescent lights with the large fan running to move air around, due to the fact the rain was light showers I was able to leave the shed door open to help keep the humidity down and I left the fan running over night as well. Here are some images I took yesterday. Both of the Passion #1 gals outside in back yard Close up of the top of the stalky plant. Top of the leafy plant. The plants are now ready to harvest I can see plenty of amber trichomes so after lunch today they go the chop and I harvested both plants. Both Passion #1 plants harvested bud hanging on stalks drying. Passion #1 charas. I have had a little smoke of the charas in a single skinner with some fan leaves (I&I quit smokin shag) and it has a nice vibe, a good strong body feeling, but the high is an elevation of conciousness, with charas the hit is like a silk thread that slowly and gently vanishes away, its the cream of the crop. So there was 650g of fan leaves, stalky produced 750g of bud and leafy produced 600g of bud, but remember these weights are wet and the bud is still on the stalks at the moment while the bud is drying, in 7 days I will strip the bud off the stalks and trim as required and then I will put it in Kilner jars, I only have one at the moment so I need to go and buy and few more. In total bud and stalk for both plants is 1350g or about 26 ounces, so I should end up with just under a pound of herb once dried I am well chuffed. Updates to follow happy growing guys. Gasmeter Likkle more
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    And lastly, the special guest, the smoker mosquito
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    Much more tidy now with the revised hanging arrangements. No more direct CF fit to fan, included a bit of ducting and it has not made any difference in performance and noise levels which is very pleasing. Also, shortened the LED hanging wires to half the size. After all the rearrangements I have a lot more head height to play with and also far more hanging points. Plants are looking well too. Blue Treacle Autos are 13 days old from seed and now in approx 6/7ltr pots which they will stay in. Auto 1 is in a wide normal round pot and Auto 2 is in a much taller and narrower square pot. Just hope the roots of Auto 2 like the tall narrow pot. Kalashnikova and The Doctor are 8 days old from seed and in approx 3ltr pots now. Super Bud and White Widow are 7 days old from seed and in approx 3ltr pots now. White Widow is slower than the other GHSC strains after a shaky start but it will come on. Few pictures and you will notice the soil as dry as a bone. This was done intentionally and after the pictures they were all watered with a 1/8 strengh mix of Growth Technology's Greenfuse Root and Greenfuse Grow. What do you think guys and girls?
  18. 2 likes
    Hi @Jose.gh This competition sounds great and would be more than happy to play my hand as I am undecided what seeds to start in the new year. January is the time I will be starting another grow as I am just finishing of some test Auto's as an experiment. My set up would be the usual.....1.2m x 1.2m tent with 5 soil pots, LST'ed and SCROG'ed under LED's. Those strong Indica Rhino's love a bit of tying down and spreading out to get the best out of them.
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    Good luck with the harvest tomorrow, @LedCherryBerry. I too shall be harvesting my bagseed plants tomorrow, 7 days since their last flush/water. They've taken quite a while to dry out, likely because of the lackage of leaves to transpire/utilize water, and the non-use of my dehumidifier for the last week to keep temps down. Don't worry, be happy (easier said than done, I know):
  20. 2 likes
    So, so sorry for not delivering the update on time. I've been very busy in these days: my depression isn't going anywhere, had so many things to do at work, and a few issues to resolve left me barely with the time to feed them, and shut the shack off. Anyway, here i am, in a midst of happiness and sadness. I'll Harvest S2 tomorrow, and prepare her today (defoliage). Beneath, some pictures of the girls. S2: Structure is 27 cm tall. She is the smallest plant from seed i've ever grown to harvest. Incredible. I've decided to take these pictures without the flash. In this way, her natural colours are more visible. She is purplish, and her smell has changed from candy-sweet to almost a grape-wine scent. I believe she's ready. S3: Her deficiency doesn't seem to stop. I have the small doubt i haven't transplanted her enough times, and now she's suffering for this reason. Only problem is that i cannot transplant her now, i'd risk seeds and too much overall stress. I've taken pictures in this angle, so you can see the plant structure. She is 41cm tall. Her main bud. This time the picture has the flash, i wanted to highlight the compactness of this nugget (all the other nuggets are similar), and the incredible amount of pistils she's spitting out. She's literally "spitting out the demons" hehehe. I'll see you this evening, and tomorrow, when S2 Harvest day comes. Peace!
  21. 2 likes
    Hey José, I like to participate, already have lots of feeding so im cheap, just need the seeds jejejeje, and after the great experience with the trainwreck + super bud strain and the cheese + withe widow im just itching to try the new rhino. Lets see if she goes as good as the last strain you sent me. Anyway my love and a big hug to all the guys and girls at Greenhouse and in the forum.
  22. 2 likes
    Hi Jose, i like to try this genetic. i can put up to 4/5 pots in 1m2 tent with led light. thx for the chance.
  23. 2 likes
    Hello all I am going into my 8th week tomorrow My plants are growing nicely now I will be giving them another 2 more weeks in veg just to see if I can fill my net up abit more
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    Harvested a few lower branches yesterday and fashioned a drying box which is kept at 70-75°C with humidity ~ 50%. I've also made a couple of CO2 generators (water, sugar, yeast) which may or may not help (mainly for my new grow) - in for a penny ..... Only a few fungus gnats flying about now, so my perlite top & bottom seems to have helped. Actually, just moved the opened bag of coco which is next to my big tent and there are lots there, so I may have found the source. I shall keep the bags of opened Tropic Bat Mix and Coco Pro outside (in the cold) from now on. I've lowered max temp to 75°C and min is ~ 64°C. Humidity is a little high at ~ 50% (decided to save myself ~400w and worry by not using the dehumidifier), but there is lots of air flow so fingers crossed mold won't be an issue. Tomorrow is pencilled in for harvest, but I would like to let their pot go very, very dry before harvesting so might delay that. Additionally, I've read conflicting statement regarding leaving them in the dark for 24-48 hrs before harvesting, what are your thoughts?
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    Hey guys sorry for the delay updating my journal and thanks for the kind words. I bought four new 1 1/2 litre Kilner jars while the Passion #1 was drying then a week after harvest on the 1st of October I trimmed the dry sugar leaves from the bud and put the bud into the Kilner jars. So I ended up with 8oz bud and 3oz of trim, plus a shit load of fan leaves and stalks, I put the fan leaves in a cardboard box as I stripped them off both plants during harvest, and I left them in the shed to dry slowly, and I have used half of them to make some canna butter, which I use it to make a couple of batches of brownies that give a mild vibe, which is nice in the morning. Unfortunately the stalks got moldy so I binned them, otherwise I would have used them to make canna butter too. The bud has a piney odour which is quite strong, it is a nice smoke fast hitting with a good high and strong body hit that is borderline couch lock, just how I like it, I waited until there were heaps of amber trichomes before I harvested them both. Gimmi de ting Doctor order me... Here are some images I took when I trimmed the bud and put it into jars. All the Passion #1 bud trimmed up bud in a heap on a bin liner. All of the Pasion #1 buds and a lighter to give an idea of the size of the buds. All of the Passion #1 buds in Kilner jars. All of the Passion #1 trim in an old ice cream container. All of the Passion #1 trim in a Kilner jar. A nice big bud for a test smoke. This season growing outdoor has definitely been the best so far out of the past 3 outdoor seasons, I just love the Passion #1 strain it performs well in the UK climate, I am really looking forwards to the 2018 season next year, hopefully I can improve on this years grow and get a better yeild. Happy growing guys. Gasmeter
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    I would give them another week and then reassess. One more week might be enough, or you may find they need a little more. My main concern for my new grow is not to to run out of hight space. I'll veg until they get to the hight I want, OR they're wide enough to fill my SCRoG 90% (whichever is sooner).
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    I grow in a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.0m with a combination of LED's pulling a REAL wattage from the wall of approx 375 watts. Yield is obviously strain, care and conditions dependent and GPW I have grown so have a range of 0.88GPW to 1.33GPW or in weight terms 12oz (336g) to 18oz (504g) (give or take a few grams to the ounce). I can't complain with the use of LED's and have no plans in swapping to anything else anytime soon.
  29. 2 likes
    Hey g22, First of all i'm sorry i've missed Your grow! Clicked the follow right away LEDs have 2 wattages. The 1500 watts are what the lamp try to simulate (HPS, CFL or MH compared), while the 459 watts are the true wattages of the lamps. Means that if you plug it in, you'll consume 459 watts, while having the light a 1500W lamp would produce.
  30. 2 likes
    Hello all Here are what my plants look like now As you can see they are growing nicely
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    They are just over 60 cm wide now with lots of branches
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    Hello there, I am fairly new to growing. I currently have a licence for 70 Indoor plants and I am working on my current setup! Thanks have a great day.
  33. 2 likes
    Hello all my dear gardeners I have taken a few more leaves off my plants Hopefully I am doing this right Yours Cindy x
  34. 2 likes
    Hello all I made a massive mistake with my weeks of veg In my last post I said I was just starting my 9th week of veg but it is my 7th week sorry about that we all my mistakes 😂
  35. 2 likes
    Hello @Bee1984, Welcome to Strain Hunters. Here is the grand daddy of all the DIY hydroponics videos. View all 9 episodes. Enjoy.
  36. 2 likes
    Hi led I know you like making things so I just wanted to show you what I have made
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    Hello people Here are my other 2 plants Growing nicely
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    Cindy, Here's an idea (but maybe you know this already): You can use your SCRoG net as a continuous LST-method if you wish to. (For any growers of Autoflowering plants who might read this, if you are growing Autos, you do NOT want to do this. Autos rarely live long enough to do this.) Set your net low, then... Basically, every day, look for the growth-tips of each major branch that have grown through the net, and carefully push them back down and over to the next one or two holes, thereby forcing the branch to grow horizontally immediately under the net. Keep doing this every day or two, and eventually, the tiny side-node growth-buds along the branch will begin receiving more growth hormones and they will become growth-tips of their own. Allow these side-node growth-tips to grow through the net and proceed towards the light. Each of these will become another cola. When it appears that these side-node growth-tips have overtaken the main branch tip in growth-rate, then finally allow the main branch tip to turn upwards through the net. The branch tips should still have enough growth hormones in them that they can catch up with the side-node growth-tips, then you should have a fairly even canopy. After the main tips have turned upwards and have about half-way caught up with the side-node tips, then switch over to 12/12, and now begins the stretch for flowering. To answer your question, because SCRoG-method requires time to develop, the earlier you start the process, the better. If you wait for the branches to grow in length before forcing them horizontally, then the side-node growth tips will be too small by the time the main tip is ready to pre-flower. Start the SCRoG early. Also, a longer branch is already a bit woody, and it might break or crease when you attempt to force it down. That would be HST (heavy stress training) and would be stress for the plant that would result in slowed growth. If you start early and keep pushing the tips down, then the tissues will still be soft and pliable, and less apt to break or crease.
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    Thx bro, this pheno it's really earthy and moss flavour and smell. What you get into your nose grinding buds it's the same you taste at smoke. When you hit t88he joint smokes really have a presence, really strong one. Effect is fast hitting and strong, a sativa energetic high, really puts you in a very good mood and last something like 2 hours. For me, kinda heavy user, it's a really good strain to grow, easy and productive, with a quality that makes honor to his parentals.
  40. 2 likes
    Ps I have 2 leds in my tent
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    My led lights are 350 true watts and my plants are 4 inches high
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    Nicely? Those are monsters! Beautiful job ^^ I love the fact that they're growing so bush, and low. How tall are your girls? You might have wrote this somewhere, but i can't remember. How many Actual led watts are those babies under? Need for a comparison on my equip. Keep going, those girls will pump out good buds :3 Peace
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    Hello all I have just started my 4th week of veg My plants are growing nicely
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    So it is the end of week 18 and since I found a couple of buds with bud rot a few days ago I have been keeping a close eye on the top of the leafy plant and I found a couple more buds had also been affected so I snipped them off and I removed the bud from the nodes directly below that I was not sure about just to be sure. I have been quick drying the bud on the radiator as I did before and it has a decent vibe they are close to harvest now. So last night I gave them both 9 litres of water, the weather today has been mostly sunny with a bit of cloud and tomorrow will be the same. Here are some image I took yesterday of the top of the stalky plant. Top of stalky plant. Close up of bud on top of stalky plant. The weather over the next few days is forcast to be cloudy and sunny so I will keep and eye on them and see how things go harvest time is close now. Happy growing guys. Gasmeter
  45. 2 likes
    Hello Everyone, Names Nick. Glad to be here! I've only had the pleasure of flowering out one of Strain Hunters strains, and that was the White Strawberry Skunk. I really cannot say enough good things about this strain. Super fruity smelly with some slight muskyness, once smoked you can get the strawberry fruityness, and at the end of the pallet you get some musky skunky goodness.. Great resin production as well! Goals are to get some more SH genetics here soon, maybe a nice sativa.. and slowly work my way off the bottles and go fully probiotic building my own soil. Remember, good microbial life = huge happy roots, huge happy roots = DANKNESS! Cheers and Respect !!
  46. 2 likes
    Hey thanks a lot bud! Yea I have Joa on my FB and have been following the BIO feed. cannot wait to check it out!! That said I'm actually going to be trying the powder feeding here soon as well that GHS offers. Been trying to find sample packs but to no avail. There is a place across town that sells it so i'll be checking them out here within the month. I was using cutting edge full line up but I'm over all that... was GREAT don't get me wrong.. but state is cracking down on what minerals/nutrients you can use.. so might as well go fully organic. Thanks for the response and welcoming!
  47. 2 likes
    Oh well, I suppose the end of this grow has finally come and I am very pleased with the results. Firstly, massive thanks to Mike and all the staff of GHSC for making this happen and also all the members of this forum for taking time to look in, provide advice, guidance and their hospitality. As for the results, they have surpassed my expectations by a long way considering that this was my first LED grow and also remembering that, combined, the two LED pulled 375 REAL watts from the wall. I was hoping for 5oz and anything more was a bonus. Here is the breakdown of the final weights before they went back into their brown bags but folded so they are loosely sealed now. Super Bud - 89g (3.17oz) The Doctor - 85g (3.03oz) Kalashikova - 79g (2.82oz) White Widow- 77g (2.75oz) TOTAL - 330g (11.78oz) When I started I though I would aim for 0.4gpw hence the logic of 5oz (375 REAL watts x 0.4 = 150g (5.35oz). I am obviously pleased by with a total of 330g which works out to be 0.88gpw. I am sure I can improve on this and that next aim is for 1gpw. Next to do is the White Widow x Cheese testers but in serious need of a good clean out and even a few tiny modifications before I even start to think about starting.Another issue is, because I am growing in an out house, in a tent with LED's but with some limited heating, I have the strong feeling temps might just get a bit too to start another grow off with the middle of winter on its way. I could play around with a few ideas but nothing I am convincingly decided on so lets see. I apologize in advance for lack of pictures. Obviously for most being security I would guess, pungent overpowering lingering weed is very distinctive in built up areas and it is not the greatest idea sat on scales while I take a photo-shoot. Sorry but I guess you get the idea from many of the previous pictures I have posted. So there it is, the end and kinda sad really to see my girls fall but a TOTAL - 330g (11.78oz) makes a very Merry Christmas, New Year and beyond probably. Thanks again to all involved and especially Mike from GHSC.
  48. 2 likes
    I think your setup is just fine. I had figured that the lamps were arranged to provide maximum spread, considering also that the placement of the filter and fan above them limits your selection of hang-points. As I see it, there could be a problem later-on as the plants get tall, you may have difficulty keeping the spread evenly spaced as you raise the lamps to keep the plants from growing into the lamps... The lamps would need to pass upward by the filter, and that might force you to turn them each diagonally, but that should not really present any major problem. In my flower tent, I mounted the filter and fan far to the left and as high against the ceiling as practicable, with one 90° bend in the flexible duct leading through a ventilation hole in the left-rear corner of the ceiling of the tent, and from there, leading to and securely sealed to the vent-flange of the window leading to the outside. Here are some pics. The last pic shows how dirty the old filter got. Edit: I hung my filter and fan using plain straps; seeing no need to raise or lower the fan and filter. I cannot see really well what you are using, but I think those hangers that you used to hang your filter were intended to be used for lighting, with the primary functional feature being the ability to easily raise and lower the lamp via the mechanism built into the middle of the string.
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    Ps I am still training my plants to grow under my net

About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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