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Cannabissapean last won the day on October 16

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About Cannabissapean

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    The Great Outdoors, Hiking, Camping, Caving, Kayaking, Bicycling, Gardening, Red Wine, Good Friends, Travelling. Recently added: Working-Out and Loving it!

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  1. Magnificent looking plants. Towers of gold, green and purple THC. Enjoy your harvest!
  2. A friendly member here in StrainHunters @hexx_NL has demonstrated her method of re-using soil in which cannabis had previously grown. Here's how she does it. In preparation for a transplant, she first removes the stump of an old cannabis plant from its final pot of soil, leaving the soil and the old dead roots intact in the large final pot. Then she removes the "small plant to be transplanted" along with its nearly root-bound root-ball from its smaller pot and simply sets the root-ball directly on top of the old soil of the final pot. Yeah, maybe she opens the hole up a little bit, but the special characteristic of her method is that the new plant and its rootball sit higher, and air can easily get to the upper roots of the small rootball. The lower one-third to one-half of the small rootball is what now grows roots into the final pot, right alongside the old dead roots of the previous plant. She claims that it seems that the new plant recognizes that a cannabis plant had grown there before, and so the new plant grows comfortably there. Just thought you might like to hear about that technique. In the past, I have reused soil from a cannabis grow to mix directly into a "supersoil mix", but not very often. I haven't yet attempted Hexx_NL's technique yet, but after writing this, I may try it sometime next year; an experiment. But I definitely DO reuse the soil from cannabis grows by mixing it in with all the other compost ingredients and after the worms and critters and microbes have had their shot at it for a year. But then I no longer consider it to be soil, I consider it to be compost, and therefore only an amendment.
  3. Yeah, the other soils that I throw in do not comprise any large percentage of the whole. They're just small left-over soils, but NOT used soils. I have thrown in small amounts of such soils as: bonsai soil mix, soil for citrus trees, cactus soil, tomato soil, rhodadendron or azalea soil, most any soil that is tested to have a pH between 5,0 and 7,0. But NOT soils with any timed-release fertilizer; the time-release feature will often result in nutrient spikes at the wrong times for cannabis during its lifecycle. But that's not to say that I just throw stuff together without seriously thinking about what is in it. I do read the contents and judge whether its contents might be something that cannabis can use. I do create my mixes with the goal in mind of approaching the nutritional values that one sees in soils prepared in the various "supersoil for cannabis" recipes found online or in YouTube, but I try to avoid mixing a soil that is too sharp for cannabis.
  4. My composting. I run six composters. Four of them are for grass-clippings and general yard waste (leaves and sticks and weeds and such), occasionally large bulk of rotting vegetables from the garden, and occasionally the vegetable kitchen-waste. For moisture, I sprinkle rainwater or pondwater into the composters whenever they look dry or when it seems that their activity has reduced. I open them to the rain if I happen to remember. I close them against the sunlight if I happen to remember. I turn these composters about once or twice a year. When I harvest the compost (on average, every two years) I basically shovel the stuff over a sieve. (I use a rough throw-sieve which is commonly available at any garden center.) That stuff that is not yet rotted to an unrecognizeable state or which is still large enough that it does not fall through the sieve, I throw back in the bottom of a cleaned-out composter to start that composter anew. The black stuff that does fall through the sieve is the rich stuff that I spread into my growhouse (for vegetables, not cannabis) just before I turn the soil in late Fall sometime between Halloween and Thanksgiving. Or, I may throw that black compost over the surface of the outer-garden just before I perform the tilling in the late Fall and early Spring. OK, that was those 4 composters. The other two composters are a bit more special. In the other 2 composters, I throw only the cream of the crop kind of wastes: First of all, NO grass-clippings. I throw in: cannabis leaves and sticks from taking-down and trimmimg my cannabis plants, nearly all the vegetable kitchen-wastes, the leaves from my apple and cherry trees, the shredded limbs from the cherry and apple trees, forest-floor composted leaves collected from nearby piles of leaves in the community (adds natural microbes), and the soils from the finished potted cannabis plants, but never soils from other plants in the house (they contain fertilizers for decorative plants and may also contain diseases that I dont want in my cannabis), only cannabis soils. The kitchen-waste never contains meats or oils from cooking, only vegetable debris or molding breads. (Meats and cooking oils will attract the wrong kind of critters to the compost: mice, rats, meat-flies, bot-flies, maggots, etc.) Three or four times each year, I sprinkle about 15 liters of rainwater or pond water into each composter to add microbes and moisture, and that really gets things going. Into these two composters, I also throw earthworms everytime I find one while doing yardwork. The worms and all the other critters that live in the composters will work along with the microbes to consume and break-down the vegetable matter, turning it into worm-dung, critter-dung and the wastes from bacteria and fungus. These waste-products are exactly what plants love. But the compost alone cannot be the soil. The compost is only an amendment. I turn these 2 composters also about once or twice a year. When I harvest these special composters (on average, every year) I sieve them the same as the other composters, but then I sieve them again with a finer sieve. (Here's a tip: Do you have an old oscillating fan that no longer works? Don't throw it away without saving the fan-guard. The fan-guard (made of expanded mesh) is the perfect garden-sieve. It is the perfect size, and the holes are just perfect to create a very fine compost.) This fine compost I put into large plastic bags (dog-food style bags with the zip locks) and I allow it to sit closed for 2 or 3 months or longer (better, for a year in order to kill-off the various creatures that had been so active in the composter, because I don't want them crawling out of my cannabis soils and infesting my grow area). When I mix my next batch of "supersoil for cannabis", this fine compost is definitely one of the amendments. The microbes will become active again as soon as I mix the compost with the new soil and add water. I also add a little Mychorrhizae to my supersoils just to be sure it is active. It is always a good practice to allow a freshly-mixed and moistened supersoil to sit covered for 2 or 3 months before use to allow the microbes and fungi to become fully active before use. So plan ahead and mix your soil and moisten it in advance of when you will need to use it.
  5. The grow sessions are found outside the forum walls now. Search Youtube for "Grow Sessions", and you get this: Each session is about a different strain and describes the nutrition and conditions under which Franco had grown that plant at that time. Here in the forum, Franco (under the alias "") had posted a series of Articles called "Franco's Tricks" where he discusses his various techniques, tips and tricks:
  6. cryptolab, You may thank Arjan Roskam and Franco Loja and their friends and employees for this site. Your goals to learn, to collect, and to serve the cannabis growing community are exactly the same as many of us in here. Welcome to Strain Hunters. To "point you in their direction", I recommend simply your remaining an active member in the forum and thereby, meet other forum members over time. Participation through posting questions, answers, general comments, and through the creation of a grow journal will awaken the interest of other members. So, that being said, can you open a grow journal? What strains are you growing? What techniques are you using? What particular problems or pests are you combatting? What special tricks or techniques would you like to share with us? Be sure to post pictures, too. This forum is especially fond of photos.
  7. g22, I agree with your assessment that the root-pouch (airpot) should be used only as the final pot. Because of the potential for significant damage to the roots when transferring out of an air-pot, I had never even considered using an air-pot for the small pot.
  8. I wouldn't water at pH 10. You were having positive progress with the pH while watering at 6,8. The runoff is improving. Why mess with success? If you have already flushed, then I wouldn't recommend an additional flush. However, if you haven't flushed, then SlimJim's suggestion to perform a flush for soil-pH correction shouldn't hurt. And yes, it is possible that Sativas and Indicas have different nutrition requirements. That theme is sometimes discussed in the Grow-Sessions with Franco and Arjan. You are experiencing a common problem that occurs when growing different strains all at the same time. Each strain should be "read" separately, and their nutrients and other conditions should be adjusted separately. It happens to me, too. When I grow 3 or 4 different strains at one time, I usually feed them all the same at first, but eventually one strain (or one plant) will begin to show some kind of weakness. At that time, I begin to diverge their feeding plans or feeding mixes; for the ailing plant, I make specific adjustments in the nutrient mix and i feed that plant separately. Sometimes, depending on the plant's reaction, the divergence is only for one or two feedings; other times, the plant demands a permanently different feeding schedule. It also occurs that that same strain grown with a different set of companion strains might be one of the strong plants, and one of the other strains is the weaker strain. Basically, because I mix my soil mixes with a combination of Plagron Mix + some of my own Compost + some forest floor leaf compost + some Worm Humus + Perlite + whatever other UNUSED soil is left over in various bags of soil in my home that seems right for the current mix, I never mix my soils the same each time. And I rarely follow a set schedule of feeding. I do use the manufacturer's charts as a guideline, but I never mix at full strength. I try to let the plant tell me what it likes and dislikes. I try to grow mainly relying on the soil mix to provide the basic nutrition, using a minimum of the chemical ferts. I let the plant tell me what its deficiencies are, then I adjust the feeding solution at each feeding to try to correct those deficiencies.
  9. It sounds like you are starting to win the battle. Run-off pH coming up to better levels, (target = 6,2 to 6,5). It is normal that growth is stunted when you have mites. Mites wil also stunt the bud production if they are still there, so remain dilligent and aggressive. Have a nice Sunday nap my friend.
  10. That's what I have heard. And yes, even the tomato fruits are poisonous until they are ripe. And not just Tomatoes; Potatoes are also poisonous on all green parts, even on the potato root-fruit (the tuber). If the Tuber is exposed to the sun while in the ground, the exposed portion wll develop chlorophyl and that portion is poisonous. But now that I have written that here, I am embarrassed that I didn't follow-up with research. So, I shall look for some info to back that up. Here it is. (Simple Search for "Are Tomatoes poisonous?" reveals many answers. Here is just one of them.): And for Potatoes. (Simple Search for "Are Potatoes poisonous?...): In fact, many of the foods we eat originate from plants that contain poisons. It is often a matter of which part we eat, or it is a matter of cooking them in order to eliminate the poison, not always possible with all toxins. (MUST READ: The seeds of Cherries and Apples contain cyanide. DON'T EAT THE SEEDS!!!): And to address your mention of zucchinis, here is a Wikipedia article on zucchinis. Apparently, for the commercial market, zucchinis have been bred to have lower levels of its toxin - cucurbitacin. But seeds from older heirloom strains or from ornamental varieties may still contain significant amounts of the toxin. The main thing to be aware of is the taste. If your zucchini is bitter, don't eat it. It is also reecommended NOT to save the seeds from your own zucchinis, gourds and cucumbers for the purpose of growing them for food. If your edible plants have become pollinated by the pollen from a neighbor's decorative (possibly poisonous) plant, then the poisonous properties may be imparted into the seeds in that fruit that you just now ate. Even though the fruit you ate wasn't poisonous, the fruit that results from those seeds might be poisonous. Caution, the toxin cucurbitacin is NOT eliminated by cooking: A man in Germany died from eating Zucchini Stew:
  11. Tomatoes are slightly poisonous on the green parts. You know that tomatoes are closely related to Nightshade, right? Besides, if you had a choice which plant to eat, which plant would you choose to chew? I'm not going away. I'm here if you need me. Plants are looking fab.
  12. Glad that I could help...
  13. Excellent

About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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