Uhh, my friend, the hairs are the Pistils. The nearly microscopic sacks of fluid all over the leaves of the flowers are the Trichomes. Pistils are normally white, then can begin to turn colors (yellow, pink, red, brown) as they die. Trichomes start clear, then turn cloudy, then turn amber as they mature. For either, I imagine there could definitely be variations on the colors, depending on the strain, nutrients or environmental conditions. Here is an interesting read about the anatomy of cannabis flowers. It even discusses the processes that are occurring in the flower during the time that the pistils are changing colors. I thought you might like this: http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/anatomy-of-a-marijuana-flower-and-explanation-of-the-pollination-process/ deficiency? genetics? Could be either. Could be both. I don't know. Do your best. I know you will.

Ahahahahaaaa! Jose! That's great!

Ahh, thanks for that tip on GroWell. https://www.growell.co.uk/

Reviewing that site, it appears that they do not sell online? Is that right? It further appears that these products are available for purchase only through Stockists inside the UK alone. Good luck to them. Maybe they will expand in the future. Shaggy, I did not intend to confuse you. But as you see in their chart, "Add Water", Shogun does in a way indicate a reduction in nutrient feeding. I could be wrong, but I do not remember seeing anything like that in most any other chart by other nutrient manufacturers. So, kudos to Shogun. Hopefully, ALL nutrient manufacturers will begin to follow suit and start to acknowledge fully in their charts the need for flushing and the need for allowing the plant to continue for a COUPLE WEEKS AFTER THE FLUSH in order to optimize the final product. Time will tell. Nutrient manufacturers would love for everyone to think that there is nothing wrong at all with their products and that their products can be used from start to chop without any worries. And for the most part, you can use the nutrients all the way to the end if you want to. Just be aware that not flushing and not allowing the plant to cleanse itself will result in higher amounts of salts and metals in the plant. Remember also that in nature, the plant must struggle and send roots farther and deeper to find its nutrients. Whereas in our grows, whether indoor or outdoors, when we feed with nutrients, we are basically saturating the plant with nutes. I remember the explanation from @NVmedclosetgrower where he described that all these metals with which we are saturating our plants are the same metals found in the head of matches. They are the same metals found in various explosives. If these metals are allowed to remain in the plants in sufficiently high concentrations, when the dried product is later burned, the result is sparking and popping. (In the old days, that was always explained away as "Oh, a seed exploded". Maybe so, but today, we try to grow sensimilla, so if sparking and popping continues when no seeds are present, that can only mean excessive metals.) Experienced growers have learned to tell the difference. When I open-up an older jar of cannabis where I had not yet learned to flush thoroughly, I can smell that chemical smell... like walking into a chemical factory. When I open a jar of a product that was properly flushed, I smell the invitation, "Smoke me! Vape me!". The non-flushed products just don't have that same inviting smell. Another indication of properly flushed product is, when it is smoked, it burns well and the ash is white or lighter-colored. A product that is not properly flushed is difficult to burn or difficult to keep burning while smoking, and the ash is dark to black in color. Shaggy, thanks for posting the Shogun information. And good luck with the upcoming harvest. The plants look great.

Nice wake-up today. Set me in motion...

And thank you for posting Jose Cervante's chart. That's one of the best I've ever seen.

Haha, at first I thought you were talking about @Cindy. Then I remembered that you named your plants. LOL Yes, I agree. It appears that your plant has iron deficiency. You will not go wrong adding a little Cal-Mag with iron. Just don't overdo. I noticed that you haven't posted into the following thread created by @BlackMagickGenetics. BMG had posted some excellent charts in that thread, to include a deficiency chart. Enjoy:

They look very pretty, man. But I definitely would not chop them at this time. You just fed them again last Tuesday with full strength nutes, and since then, you haven't flushed. If you chop them now, they will be harsh to smoke. If it were me, I would flush them with cool tap water (3-times the pots volume), then continue 2 more weeks feeding only pH'd water until the chop. Doing that, they should swell a bit more, but most importantly, the plant will rid its tissues of excessive salts and minerals, making the final product sweeter to smoke. You could let them go a little longer if it seems they are still swelling and you still have no amber trichomes, but I would guess definitely not longer than 2 more weeks.

LOL, we are the Stoner's Kitchen. T-Shirts coming soon...

Interesting. I don't know the answer to your question, but I have a few for you: 1. Did your generous friend say what strain those seeds are? 2. Did he say whether those are normal seeds or are they feminized seeds? 3. Do those white lines run down the middle of each half-shell? Or do those white lines run down the center-line axis of the seed (along the front and back of the seam, called the raphe)? [Whether the front (anterior?) or back (posterior?) of the raphe have different names, I do not yet know.] While performing research in order to better formulate my questions above, I ran across a website that you may find interesting if you are curious about seed anatomy. (I performed a simple search for "anatomy of a seed"): http://www.seedbiology.de/structure.asp Judging by your picture above and my understanding of sexing cannabis seeds based on previously viewed charts of cannabis seeds, I would expect that the top 4 seeds will yield male plants, and the bottom 4 seeds will yield female plants. 4. It would certainly be interesting to know for sure. Could you please segregate them and mark them (all the way to their final pots) according to my presumption so that you can test that hypothesis? [ M? M? M? M? F? F? F? F? ] Good luck with the germination, and do keep us posted.

Amazing what changes occur over the course of 6 weeks. Looking good, frenchmango.

Doing Ok, BMG. Currently 4 weeks into flowering with 1 TrainWreck and 1 Hawaiian Snow flowering nicely. And currently 2 weeks along with 2 MoneyMakers just in pre-flowering stadium, but battling spider-mites. Hey, I reviewed your journal here again. You have some nice charts in here. Thank you for posting those. The chart of Cannabis deficiencies and the chart of the EC-to-PPM conversion charts are especially nice. I have some questions for you: 1. I would like to add both of those charts to my grow-library. Can you tell us the URL-source for those charts so that others can also download them? 2. On 29 October 2016, you began this thread saying that you were currently working to reverse your plant, then on 30 Oct 2016, you said that you had just (again) sprayed the plant with a silver colloid solution. a. Were you using a homemade silver colloid solution, or was it purchased? b. If it was homemade, can you tell us how you made it? c. If it was purchased, can you enlighten us with its brand-name/model number and where it can be purchased? d. And when did you begin to spray that plant, and how many times did you spray it before it had definitely shown its reversal by the 25th of November 2016? Thank you. Cannabissapean

Condolence Board for Franco Loja: http://greenhouseseeds.nl/franco/goodbye/ Click on the link. When the page loads in, then scroll down to leave your message.

No, BMG, I'll leave the outlines of the last 2 videos to each viewer to do that for himself. It's not so difficult a job. Regarding the first 7 videos, I felt it was important to outline them so that new growers can see that great success with growing cannabis is not by accident. It takes planning and preparation to have the kind of success that this grower had had. And it must also be understood that not all recipes and techniques work the same for each grower. Each grower has his own environmental issues and growing restrictions to deal with. To reach the highest level of success requires dialing-in one's set-up and also dialing-in one's own monitoring and knowledge of the cannabis plant and participation in the process. The grower above didn't develop his techniques overnight. His presentation is certainly the result of many hours of research and study, along with a number of years of practice. I value that highly.

You guys are a LAUGH-RIOT!!!!! My ribs are hurting so bad from laughing... cowhide... hahahaaaa ingredients ON the pizza-dough BEFORE baking it.... ROFLMAO... Oh God, I neeed some fresh air...

Bottom-watering is often used for mediums like Mapito or Rockwool or coco, (ebb-N-flow techniques). Depending on how you have filled your soil pots, it may or may not be appropriate in your case, so you are right to be careful. The main thing about bottom-watering soil pots is understanding that the pot of soil should sit in the water for only a limited amount of time, thereafter, it must be allowed to drain away completely and then partially dry-out before the next watering session. To avoid such problems, the botttom 10 to 20% of the pot could be lined with a substrate that sheds water, such as coarse lava-rock. Such a lining allows water to drain away much more quickly, and oxygen can reach the lower root areas more quickly.

I am running two 270-Watt multi-wavelength LED lamps, each with ninety 3-Watt LEDs. My average distance to canopy is 30 to 40 cm. But the plants have grown even closer (within 20 cm) without any problems. If the buds stretch within 10 cm, that's when I begin to notice drying problems on the buds. It seems that I too have defeated my spider mites. However, I had sprayed using pyrethrine, and I had used every day or two the humidity spike technique as I had used successfully before. I am convinced that this humidity spike technique works well. Of course, it can only be spikes in humidity because long duration of high humidity will certainly lead to bud rot.

The previous Amsterdam Coffeeshops Map had changed its URL, so this is the updated Amsterdam Coffeshops Map. I thought this might be helpful for anyone planning to visit Amsterdam. Click here: https://www.coffeeshopdirect.com/Map.html

Fish can produce waste by-products that the cannabis plant enjoys in the flowering stage.

Stanley, I'm looking forward to your journal.

Sorry, I am not an NFT grower. Here is a link to some of our official grow reports on Money Maker. http://forums.strainhunters.com/forum/85-completed-reports/ "Teach them"? Do you mean LST or supercropping or SCRoG techniques? "70-30"? Sorry, I am having a bit of difficulty understanding your questions.

Stanley67, Welcome to Strain Hunters. So, what tips are you seeking?

This is a very good algae eater. I have two of them. They are now 7 years old and still very active. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyrinocheilus_aymonieri

LedCherryBerry, I guess I owe you an apology. It appears that my advice regarding defeating mites is exactly wrong. According to the following link, mites like it moist and have difficulties in the dry. (But my infestation occurred in the dry. I am a bit confused now.) But maybe it is the "wild humidity swings" that works. I just don't know. Anyway, here is the link I found. It seems to have lots of good information about identifying and battling pests.