cryptolab, You may thank Arjan Roskam and Franco Loja and their friends and employees for this site. Your goals to learn, to collect, and to serve the cannabis growing community are exactly the same as many of us in here. Welcome to Strain Hunters. To "point you in their direction", I recommend simply your remaining an active member in the forum and thereby, meet other forum members over time. Participation through posting questions, answers, general comments, and through the creation of a grow journal will awaken the interest of other members. So, that being said, can you open a grow journal? What strains are you growing? What techniques are you using? What particular problems or pests are you combatting? What special tricks or techniques would you like to share with us? Be sure to post pictures, too. This forum is especially fond of photos.

g22, I agree with your assessment that the root-pouch (airpot) should be used only as the final pot. Because of the potential for significant damage to the roots when transferring out of an air-pot, I had never even considered using an air-pot for the small pot.

I wouldn't water at pH 10. You were having positive progress with the pH while watering at 6,8. The runoff is improving. Why mess with success? If you have already flushed, then I wouldn't recommend an additional flush. However, if you haven't flushed, then SlimJim's suggestion to perform a flush for soil-pH correction shouldn't hurt. And yes, it is possible that Sativas and Indicas have different nutrition requirements. That theme is sometimes discussed in the Grow-Sessions with Franco and Arjan. You are experiencing a common problem that occurs when growing different strains all at the same time. Each strain should be "read" separately, and their nutrients and other conditions should be adjusted separately. It happens to me, too. When I grow 3 or 4 different strains at one time, I usually feed them all the same at first, but eventually one strain (or one plant) will begin to show some kind of weakness. At that time, I begin to diverge their feeding plans or feeding mixes; for the ailing plant, I make specific adjustments in the nutrient mix and i feed that plant separately. Sometimes, depending on the plant's reaction, the divergence is only for one or two feedings; other times, the plant demands a permanently different feeding schedule. It also occurs that that same strain grown with a different set of companion strains might be one of the strong plants, and one of the other strains is the weaker strain. Basically, because I mix my soil mixes with a combination of Plagron Mix + some of my own Compost + some forest floor leaf compost + some Worm Humus + Perlite + whatever other UNUSED soil is left over in various bags of soil in my home that seems right for the current mix, I never mix my soils the same each time. And I rarely follow a set schedule of feeding. I do use the manufacturer's charts as a guideline, but I never mix at full strength. I try to let the plant tell me what it likes and dislikes. I try to grow mainly relying on the soil mix to provide the basic nutrition, using a minimum of the chemical ferts. I let the plant tell me what its deficiencies are, then I adjust the feeding solution at each feeding to try to correct those deficiencies.

It sounds like you are starting to win the battle. Run-off pH coming up to better levels, (target = 6,2 to 6,5). It is normal that growth is stunted when you have mites. Mites wil also stunt the bud production if they are still there, so remain dilligent and aggressive. Have a nice Sunday nap my friend.

That's what I have heard. And yes, even the tomato fruits are poisonous until they are ripe. And not just Tomatoes; Potatoes are also poisonous on all green parts, even on the potato root-fruit (the tuber). If the Tuber is exposed to the sun while in the ground, the exposed portion wll develop chlorophyl and that portion is poisonous. But now that I have written that here, I am embarrassed that I didn't follow-up with research. So, I shall look for some info to back that up. Here it is. (Simple Search for "Are Tomatoes poisonous?" reveals many answers. Here is just one of them.): http://www.botanical-online.com/tomato_toxicity.htm And for Potatoes. (Simple Search for "Are Potatoes poisonous?...): http://www.botanical-online.com/alcaloidespatataangles.htm In fact, many of the foods we eat originate from plants that contain poisons. It is often a matter of which part we eat, or it is a matter of cooking them in order to eliminate the poison, not always possible with all toxins. (MUST READ: The seeds of Cherries and Apples contain cyanide. DON'T EAT THE SEEDS!!!): http://listverse.com/2009/01/06/top-10-poisonous-foods-we-love-to-eat/ And to address your mention of zucchinis, here is a Wikipedia article on zucchinis. Apparently, for the commercial market, zucchinis have been bred to have lower levels of its toxin - cucurbitacin. But seeds from older heirloom strains or from ornamental varieties may still contain significant amounts of the toxin. The main thing to be aware of is the taste. If your zucchini is bitter, don't eat it. It is also reecommended NOT to save the seeds from your own zucchinis, gourds and cucumbers for the purpose of growing them for food. If your edible plants have become pollinated by the pollen from a neighbor's decorative (possibly poisonous) plant, then the poisonous properties may be imparted into the seeds in that fruit that you just now ate. Even though the fruit you ate wasn't poisonous, the fruit that results from those seeds might be poisonous. Caution, the toxin cucurbitacin is NOT eliminated by cooking: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zucchini A man in Germany died from eating Zucchini Stew: https://www.thedailymeal.com/heidelberg-germany-zucchini-toxin-poison/82315

Tomatoes are slightly poisonous on the green parts. You know that tomatoes are closely related to Nightshade, right? Besides, if you had a choice which plant to eat, which plant would you choose to chew? I'm not going away. I'm here if you need me. Plants are looking fab.

Glad that I could help...

Ahhh, yes, nice. You did a nice job LST on this plant.

Nice, Flowers-to-the-People. I understand and agree. The person who thinks he knows it all has thereby immediately limited his scope of understanding. The person who accepts the truth and remains inquisitive and seeks to learn more has the vastness of the universe for his horizon.

Next expedition? Hmmm, don't know. You're in the Phillipines. Has Dutuerte stopped murdering people for growing and smoking?

And your grow-space smells like ass? Aren't you ventilating the grow-space with an exhaust ventilator to the outside? If not, you might become vulnerable to mold. Another benefit to ventilating away to the outside is that it ensures that fresh air (with the needed CO2) is coming into the grow-space.

Oh yeah, pyrethrin is also a good chemical-based pesticide, just remember not to apply it within 2 or 3 weeks of harvest. And be sure to flush a plant at least 2 weeks before harvest so the plant can rid itself of some of the pyrethrin that it has absorbed. The use of alcohol (any alcohol) on the plants is unknown to me. I use isopropyl alcohol ONLY to clean instruments before touching the plants. Where did you hear of using alcohol on the plant? (I would be afraid that the alcohol might hurt the plant.)

Oh, I almost forgot. You can also fight spidermites with wild humidity fluctuations. Seal-up your tent with a couple wet towels hanging inside so that it gets very humid with the lights on for one day. Then during lights off, remove the source of humidity and let the tent return to normal humidity (so that mold wont start). Repeat after about 3 days. Spidermites like it dry. They hate the humidity.

Jankahar, you defined it so much simpler and finer than I did. Thanks LOL You could work for Merriam-Webster.

he he heeeee

Ahaaa! Tut mir Leid. I' hab' falsch verstehen. LOL

I don't know what brands are available to you in Italy, but there are pesticide sprays that work against spider mites. I remember specifically the brand Neudorff. You should be able to find same or similar products at a local garden center or home improvement center. Here we have stores: Dehner or Toom or Bauhaus or Baywa or Obi where they can be bought. I don't think you need to start over. Fighting and winning against spider mites should be a good learning experience. I would recommend spraying every 2 to 3 days as long as you continue to see the mites. When you finally don't see them any more, I would recommend that you rinse the leaves, both top and underside by spraying a solution of 100ml hydrogen peroxide in 900ml distilled water. Spray the leaves thoroughly allowing them to drip into their own soil. The liter that you spray like that will also act as a watering for the roots, with the added benefit, that the soil will also be treated with the Neem and pesticide to help kill-off any eggs from the mites or gnats. When you eventually switch any of these plants over to Flowering photoperiod, it would be best to perform a flush to help clean that pesticide from the soil, and to prepare the soil for the change to flowering nutrients. Just remember, after a true flushing (3x the pots volume administered over about an hour), you should follow the flush right away with the first flowering feeding, but at half strength. After that, wait 2 or 3 days longer than usual before the next watering/feeding, so that the soil can dry-out and oxygen can return to the soil. All these flushes and feedings should be done with pH'd water. (Of course, the distilled spray is not pH'd. It starts as 7.0, then the hydrogen peroxide has its influence, whatever that is.)

Er sagte in sein andere Grow Journal, dass diese Pflanze 100% Columbian sind. http://forums.strainhunters.com/topic/11049-help-in-identifying-unknown-strain/

Hey @Jose.gh, you can add some Cannabis leaves as a topping just under the cheese for a little taste. You could also infuse your olive oil with THC and use the Canna-cooking oil on the pizza. If you want the pizza to be magical, you just need to cook at a lower temp, <180°C.

GitNug, Thanks for the compliments about the site. I find it a most comfortable forum with lots of good people. @Jose.gh, Maybe @GitNug can help Admin tackle the compatibility problems we are having with Androids and mobile devices.

LOL, I hve so much fun with your journal... Sorry you have the spider mites. As long as you are in Vegg, keep applying that Neem against the mites. You might have to step up to a stronger pest control against those mites, but just get rid of them before flowering. You don't want those pests any where near your buds. And be sure to clean your grow area with bleach water both now and after these plants have moved on. Spider mites are difficult to get rid of.

I would recommend with Bio-Bizz, every third day. Yeah, let her dry out at the roots a little bit. She'll thank you later.

To help you, do a simple search for cannabis deficiencies or diseases, like this: https://www.bing.com/search?q=cannabis+difficiencies&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&pq=undefined&sc=0-20&sk=&cvid=6E053D34C3E04F1F9F2BA6C7D1C0EA7C See what you can find.

I have so much fun reading your text, man. You just don't know...