I love it. Plants dancing in a mosh-pit... you did good by the root-rot to make clones right away... SSSSSSHHHHHiiiii ttttt, HOUSE INSPECTIONS....??????????????? Dddddddddddddaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.......... Landlord or State? Doesnt matter, scheiss.... wish I could help out by offering a temp home...

The StrainHunters Quest to collect the specimens of the Landrace-genetics before they are corrupted or disappear is a stroke of genius. Thank you Arjan and Franco.

@LedCherryBerry, LOL my friend. I find growing Cannabis very fun and easy. Sure, there may be a problem or two along the way, but that's what makes it interesting and adventurous for me. @justermacoff, Welcome to StrainHunters. Sorry you are having problems with the wide variety that is now available in the Cannabis world. Yeah, it seems that's what happens when everybody and their brothers and sisters get into the breeding. But hey, isn't it wonderful that the Cannabis plant is so versatile and changeable? As you probably know, many of the strains were developed specifically for the indoor growers who cannot take the risk of growing openly as you can there in California. We are jealous of you. And my goodness, I hope the fires aren't getting close to your home. That's so sad that the Wine-country in California is ablaze. (although, a smart investor could make a bit of scratch if he had invested in California wine futures...) Oh, there are those terrible capitalistic thoughts again... I saw in one of your other posts that you questioned the meaning of "landrace". Landrace is a term that refers to a strain of cannabis that over time has become the dominant strain in the wild within a specific region on earth. The origin of the original cannabis plants of that area may be known or not known, but with time and through the influence of man and through the plant's abilities to readily cross-breed and to adapt to its environment, eventually a homogenous strain will become dominant. Sometimes the strain will evolve to be like no other because of it being so isolated, such as on an island or on the other side of nearly impassable mountain ranges, or separated from other regions by great deserts, or even isolated because of the segregation of peoples, etc. Examples are: Zamal on the island of Reunion, or Acupulco Gold, or Panama Red, or someIndica landraces in the mountains of Pakistan, Afghanistan or northern India. There are even landraces in Africa that are different from other regions of Africa because the people there did not mingle readily with other folk, and the plants they cultivated during their segregated history became specialized each in their individual characteristics. Contrary to the rise of the landraces is exactly what is happening today. The original landraces are being discovered and tested and evaluated for their characteristic differences, and then these are being cross-breeded in order to develop and further refine the characteristics to produce "designer" strains. That is fine as long as this cross-breeding doesn't begin to invade the original landrace regions. An example is Jamaica, where many "designer" strains from Amsterdam and from northern California and British Columbia have been introduced within their great fields, such that the original landrace of Jamaica is virtually overwhelmed with the designer genetics. In regions where the free-cultivation of a wide variety of strains occurs, the original landrace of that area will certainly be changed. (not necessarily for the bad, the introduction of the new genetics could improve the landrace in respect to THC content or colors or pest resistence, etc., not necessarily for the good, such as Ruderalis-crossing that results in lower THC or smaller growth or limited lifespan of Autos, etc.) In any case, when strange strains are allowed to infest landrace fields, the original landraces begin to change or be replaced, and they are never the same again.

LOL, see you around... Buona notte

Thank you for that, SlimJim. I didn't know that was edible. It grows all over the place around my house. I'll see if I can make a salad or tincture after reading more about it.

...wie alle uns. Er ist ganz arg vermisst. Aber wir müssen nur weiter machen...

https://www.grow.de/tag/franco-loja/ https://www.zamnesia.com/de/blog-der-beruhmte-cannabis-pionier-franco-loja-ist-mit-42-jahren-verstorben-n1210

"Thank you sir. I am not perfect, but when i do things i try to do them at best. Recipes are our way of life, no matter what kind! " I like your style, and I trust that as an Italian, you certainly know how to cook. I know I will be looking forward to whatever recipes you may have to offer. "Also, I'm assuming you are a Sir, but if you're a Madame I beg your pardon." "Sir" sounds too British. You may call me "Don". (My wife and I just finished watching all 3 parts of the Godfather, Wow!) "I did cannabutter back in the days, and i used it to make cannacookies. Unfortunately i can't remember my recipe. They were too good to be remembered.. hehe." Hehe, I know that loss of memory very well. I have about 500 grams of Cannabutter in the freezer right now. I am very much looking forward to my next lapse of memory, mmmhmmm. Maybe cookies or brownies or a Rührkuchen. "I will keep writing until I have hands. Some hours ago I posted my first grow journal, still ongoing. I missed some info on that, but I'll update as soon as I.. indeed, have updates." Yes, I saw your journal. As I had said, I like your style. Ciao!

I have heard that Brennessel can help with rheumatism or arthritis, similar to the way honeybee-stings can be used for the same purpose. This past Spring, I cleared-out a 20-meter row of Brennessel from my garden in preparation for tilling. I did it with my bare hands and wound-up with blisters and throbbing hands for a week or two. LOL

To help you with your gnat problem: Yeah, I use Neem Oil thinned-down with water and sprayed, but only if my infestation is advanced. And I haven't had bad infestations for many many months now. That may be due to two other things that I do to keep out the pests: 1. I do allow small garden spiders to live among my plants in the tents (not spider-mites). Spiders are wonderful at hunting down and destroying just about any infestation. Spiders are wonderful. The best hunters are the jumping spiders. They are pro-active and chase the pests down, and they don't spin webs, at least none that I have seen. Unfortunately for them, after they have done their job, they will eventually die of starvation somewhere in the bottom of the tent, no problem to clean up later. I just toss their bodies into the next batch of soil. 2. In each of my tents I operate a miniature bug-zapper round-the-clock that uses a very-low energy (3-Watts) UV-lamp to attract the bugs. It really works, as is evidenced by the numerous bug carcasses that have accumulated inside them over the past 3 years since they were put in service. (Sadly, even some of the spiders find their end there too. Let me see if I can find the source for those bug-zappers; if I find it, I will share it here with you. Well, I cannot find the exact source for the model that I have, but that isn't important. During my search, I discovered that the market has today an even better selection than when I bought those two. The market has even developed smaller bug-zappers about the same size as a standard light bulb using UV-LEDs. And they screw into a standard E27 or Candelabra lightbulb-socket. Here is a link that I found after a simple google search for "bug zapper": https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/Liste/110778265/bug-light-zapper.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4feL_Z_k1gIVirvtCh27YwjoEAAYAiAAEgJKVfD_BwE Small or miniature bug-zappers are also easily found in ebay or amazon. In both the Vegg tent and the Flowering tent, I run the zappers round-the-clock. In the Flowering tent, even though its light is very dim, the zapper is located either under the support table or behind the filter to prevent the light reaching the plants during sleep-time. I'll also include here the URL for one of my favorite grow-room suppliers: www.growmart.de Enjoy exploring.

Oh Yes YES YES!!! I love the way you write recipes. By the way, if you cook with cannabis, we have a Topic Category for that too. http://forums.strainhunters.com/forum/30-cooking-with-cannabis/ Please keep writing for us.

LOL, That's the spirit, CherryBerry...

Mungbean, You just can't help yourself, can you? It's gonna get CROWDED in your tents again... LOL Congrats on the new tent. Now you can do perpetual growing.

Nice growing, Guanogusano. And welcome to StrainHunters.

I guess that's normal for some weed you found on the side of the road, because that doesn't look like cannabis to me. I hope you didn't pay money for the seeds. P.S. Hey Matt0908, please post a smoke report for us, OK? Thanks...

Welcome to StrainHunters, LedCherryBerry. Your English is not bad. Looking forward to seeing your grow journals.

Absolem, I think I know how to help you fix your picture problem. First of all, if you are using a Smartphone or other mobile device to upload your pictures, then you might not be able to correct that problem. This forum runs best when you are using a full-sized laptop or a base PC. Many features of the forum are not available to users of mobile devices. OK, to fix the picture problem: After taking the picture, you must open the picture with a picture-editting program such as "Paint" or any other picture-editting program. If you only use a mobile device, then you will need to find and install a picture-editting App on your mobile device, then MAYBE it will work. If it doesn't work on your mobile device, then you might have to transfer your pictures to a full-sized laptop or a base PC. Open the picture with a picture-editting program such as "Paint" or any other picture-editting program. Make your picture-orientation corrections and THEN save the picture. After the picture has been saved by the picture-editting program, then you can upload your picture into the forum. Only THEN will the orientation-attributes be accepted by the forum. The difference is this: When you change the orientation of a picture using standard OS display software, that changes only the way it is displayed for you on that device, but nothing is stored in the file for that picture. Because no new information is stored in the picture's file, when you upload the picture to the forum, it is displayed the same as it was before. But when you open the picture in a picture-editting program, make a change and then SAVE it, the new attributes are then saved in the file. When you upload now, the new attributes (new orientation) come with the file. Hope this helps.

Webdrifter, Emily is right. I agree that if you want to provide excellent lighting at a relative cheap energy-cost during flowering, then LEDs are the way to go. Thanks, Emily.

Welcome to StrainHunters, Chronixedibles. Looking forward to corresponding with you.

g22, Trust me, friend. If you can (if you have space in a yard where you can do this), it is well worth it to start one or two composters. This won't help you today; it won't help you this year, maybe not even next year, but if you keep throwing your vegetable kitchen waste (never meats), and leaves raked-up every Fall, and plant-matter from yard clean-up and old soils, after 2 or 3 years you will end up with a continuous source of soil amendments that just cannot be beat. A composter saves you time and money and trouble. You no longer have to bag that stuff up for garbage collection, you no longer have to pay for the city to remove that part of your garbage stream, and the compost is always there for you whenever you decide to use it. It doesn't demand anything from you except an occasional turning (once every year or two?), so that it can rot further and grow worms even better. If you buy your pre-mixed soils online, I recommend Plagron Light-Mix, or Plagron Regular-Mix, or Bio-Bizz Soil Mix, or Happy Frog's Ocean Forest Soil Mix. Caution regarding Miracle-Grow Soil Mixes. Some of them contain time-released nutrients that will "release" at the wrong time for cannabis creating wild nutrient-swings that could cause problems with deficiencies or toxicities. No need for apologies. Your plants are looking great. And nice air-pots. By the way, if you want to get nice air-pots for cheap, go right now and buy some Paulaner Beer. Paulaner is selling their beer in 6-packs that are stuffed into a feltz picknick bag. After you have enjoyed the beer, the picknick bag itself is perfect as an air-pot, just remove the thin inner insulative layer, and Voila! - air-pot with handles.

Giving only water (without flushing) is almost like flushing, but because the salts still remain in the soil, her roots will still have to contend with the overabundance of the salts and minerals that are only partially thinned-out by the new fresh water. However, if flushed, the soil (being relatively cleaner than the plant) gives the plant more "room" to throw-off her salts. Think of it like the principle of "osmosis". And yes, continuing to pH the water will also help the process of mineral transfer at the roots, even in the final days. I'll discuss this here in a bit more detail: During flowering, you can adjust the pH a bit higher than in Vegg. Whereas the best pH for Vegg in soil is around 6.2, as the plant transitions into flowering, you should set the pH in general a little bit higher with each feeding, approaching 6,7 or 6,8. The flowering components P and K are better absorbed when the pH is a bit higher. After the final flush (the last two weeks), there should be so little of anything in the soil that you are no longer concerned that the plant is up-taking anything, so the pH becomes almost irrelevant, but not entirely. You can relax having to be so exact with pH adjustments, except that you do wish that the plant can still exchange with the soil in order that she can throw-off her excess salts and minerals. In order to keep those final "throw-off" processes going, the pH should still be monitored and adjusted, and it can be allowed to be as high as around 7,2 to 7,5. But don't allow the pH to be higher than 8,0. At such high levels, you will be in "Lock-out" and the plant cannot get rid of the unwanted salts and minerals. The yellowing leaves indicate that she is deficient in Nitrogen (that's OK at this point; she is so near harvest). Yellow leaves could also indicate other deficiencies or toxicities, but not in the case of your plant. She is in good health at this mature stage of her life. Yellowing and color-changing leaves can also simply mean that the plant has "decided" to shut-off an old leaf in the normal process of aging. This is natural and desired. Just as the trees in the forests are turning colors in the Autumn, these colors are indicating that the plant is re-absorbing complex sugars out of the leaves for storage in the roots; cannabis, however, stores these complex sugars in her flowers in the form of THC, CBD and the Terpines (her purpose is for the further development and protection of her children, the seeds. Pistils, yeah, you are right, I did have a double-take at my own words there after I had written them. Looking again at your photos, it seemed to me that the pistils had already turned yellow or brown and shrivelled down into the flowers. This scene doesn't occur so thoroughly in my grow as it did in yours, possibly because your plant is exposed to the natural environment (sun, wind, rain, insects, etc.), and these natural influences may certainly have a more deletory effect on the appearance of pistils. Without these natural effects, pistils in indoor grows tend to remain visible and vibrant and white for a much longer time. As well, in indoor grows, the Trichomes tend to remain clear (or more visible) for a longer time. You are doing a wonderful job learning to "read" the plant. As you continue to apply yourself in the art of growing cannabis, you will certainly make mistakes from time to time; we all do; I know that I do. But it is exactly from those "Aww Shit Moments" that we continue to hone our skills; we learn best from our own mistakes, and strive to avoid repeating them again. Looking forward to your next journal...

Ditto what jankahar said. A little bit of light-greening in the plants, but it is not too bad. It may be due to the small caliber lighting. Or an ever-so-slight N-deficiency, if that. If you decide to up the N, do it sparingly. Your set-up is wonderful for Vegg, but where will you let them flower? I hope you know that they will stretch in height during pre-flower and during the first 3 or 4 weeks of flowering. You should expect that they will approximately double in height. If you continue in that small box, they will reach the lamps and get scortched. You could perform some supercropping procedures to keep them low, but that will reduce some of the production.

Hard to offer advice when we can't see anything, and nothing is described.

Jembo, Nevermind that you responded to a conversation out of 2012, LOL... But your flowers are looking great. If you are worried about purpling stems (or red stems in some strains), you could add a little CalMag or Epsom Salts if you want to. Excessive reddening or purpling of the stems could be a Magnesium deficiency. Or you could simply ignore the colored stems. Some strains will color-up anyway. The main thing to avoid is adding much of anything, as the flowers are in their end-stage. Excessive minerals and salts and nutrients in the tissues of the plant will make for bad-tasting smoke. Be sure to flush at least a couple weeks before harvest and then feed only plain water.

Michael3, Pratik, Dani420, Welcome to StrainHunters. Yes, if you stay with us and contribute to the forum by posting comments and pictures, you will certainly make friends in this forum. The key is just that.... participation. Open topics in the appropriate categories, post your pictures of your plants and your grow set-ups and describe what you are doing special to overcome problems. Also, read into some of the other members' journals and comment there as well, as long as your comments are appropriate to the subject in that Topic. One thing that is really important to making lots of friends in here is to use the "Follow" button. When you click on "Follow" for any member, you will receive a notification each time that member posts anything. That way, you are kept in the loop on the latest activity in the forum. The more members that you follow, the more you will be able to see in here. And the more that you participate, the more that others will begin to "Follow" you. Pratik has already seen how to "Follow" someone, but for anyone else, in order to "Follow" someone, when you see their "Avatar" (picture), click on it. That will bring you to their profile. In their profile, you will see "Follow Member"; click on that, then click on the next "Follow" button, and that's it. You are now following that member. If you really want to become busy in here, "follow" everybody that you see who is posting recent comments in here. By the way, Pratik and Dani420, it would be better for each of you to open your own Introduction. You each had introduced yourselves here in Michael's Topic...