Cannabissapean
Super MOD-
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Posts posted by Cannabissapean
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11 hours ago, LedCherryBerry said:Now, my question is: since powder feedings are supposed to last 8 weeks, how do i temporarily increase N till it's not needed anymore?
Can i feed her a very light mix of liquid grow fertilizer - biobizz one - like 0.5ML/LT? Or will it cause even more instability?
Asking @Cannabissapean 'n @jan.gh, or any other member that knows a bit on the topic.
I don't know if mixing powders AND liquid nutes is a good thing. Better to ask before doing it.@LedCherryBerry, you are right to question regarding mixing nutes, or better said, "alternating" nutes.
(Obviously mixing nutes together and then feeding is like committing Cannabis suicide - similar to a person throwing various uppers, downers, Prozac, LSD, Heroine, and Bath Salts into a Gin and Tonic, slug it down, and then chase it with a beer. You aren't coming back.)
It is often advised by virtually all nutrient manufacturers NOT to mix or alternate with other manufacturer's products, and also not to feed powder-feedings back-to-back or alternatively with liquid-feedings. But that's because they are trying to help you achieve maximum performance with KNOWN variables. Since they are promoting only their product, they have used only their product in order to achieve that qualification, and then they do their best to provide you with Tables to help you approach what they believe is the best application for the species plant.
That is not to say that you won't be successful if you perform alternative feeding. But the results can be unpredictable, and the interactions among the various chemicals in the growing medium can be unpredictable. One must accept that if one begins alternative feeding or mixing, you're stepping into the unknown, and the results of the experiment are your own responsibility.
I have alternated feeding in the past usually with success, sometimes with problems. My successes usually occurred when I was dosing WELL below the manufacturer's recommended dosages. My problems usually occurred when I was dosing at or near the manufacturer's recommended dosages.
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OMG! They upgraded me to Super MOD?
Geez, I hope my head doesn't start ballooning. People are going to be afraid to talk to me. LOLOL
Well, we'll just see how it goes for a while...
AND YEAAAAAHHHHH!!!!!
I CAN UPLOAD PICTURES AGAIN!!!!!
WOOHOO!
Thanks a million for getting that fixed, @Jose.gh.
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Oooooowee! Gooowey! That looks good!
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Curious, I checked backward quickly, but rushed since I was also writing in other areas. I didn't find it: What does DD mean?
Oh, nevermind, just found it. DUTCH DRAGON!!!
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WOW! That's an impressive collection of specimens. Looks yummy
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Nice cropping and shaping.
Keep up the good work...
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Gentlemen,
A number of posts above have been "Reported" to us Moderators.
I am informing you that the "Reports" as well as this entire TOPIC are now under Review by the Moderator Team. Thereby, a number of other Moderators may be involved in making a decision regarding these "Reports".
I would highly recommend that you all calm down and refrain from using inappropriate language and offensive name-calling.
There is nothing wrong with disagreeing with one another, just please do so in a civil manner.
If there are any lies expressed, well, as misleading as they may be, there are no rules against expressing lies.
But if those lies rise to the point of libel against another member, then we Moderators may have to step in.
If you detect that another member is stating untruths, then just let it be.
Or if it is so extremely important a theme that you feel compelled to express a counter-arguement, then simply Quote the questionable post into your next post and write your counter-arguement against their statement, and then leave it alone.
If an untruth had been told, then it should be simply left to the readers to judge for themselves.
In all fairness, when quoting another Member, please do not change any text of what the other had written.
Further, in fairness to everyone who reads this, I shall state that every "Quote"-function within this forum is an "open-field" Quote-function, meaning that anything can be changed by the user who is performing the "Quote". As you might well imagine, that pretty much destroys any judicial value it may have, meaning that it would have absolutely no merit in nearly any court of law.
But let us not speak about courts of law.
I feel assured that if things go too far, the Moderators would step in.
Members may be restricted or banned, and this Topic and any other Topics deemed necessary by the Moderators can be deleted.
I have not issued a warning against anyone yet, hoping that you will find a suitable middle-course and resolve this in a civil manner.
Thank you.
Cannabissapean
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Variety packs are available. They are also known as colored seeds. In the online store, at the bottom of the page, find and click on "colored seeds". Then you will be able to see the variety packs that are available.
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I think that Jose means, "which type of hydro do you want to set up?
In hydro, there are many different variations. deep water culture (DWC), ebb-n-flow, drip into rockwool, coco as medium, perlite as medium, mapito as medium, air-ponics, bubble-ponics, and there are other methods that I cannot remember at the moment.
So, which method do you want to do?
If you are not familiar with the above-mentioned techniques, then use those words and do some google- or youtube searches. You are in for a few weeks worth of learning. It will inspire you to build your own set-up.
Have fun.
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Nice job, Gasmeter.
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Are you going to start with 70, or run a couple dial-in tests first?
Are you going to run soil or hydro or both?
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Why not switch up to LEDs?
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Unexpected periods of darkness are usually not a problem, so long as it's not more than about 4 days.
But 4 hours undesired "lights on" can be enough to seriously diminish yield, especially if it occurs in early flowering.
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4 minutes ago, LedCherryBerry said:... and managed to get back only to switch the lights off.
Does that mean you still don't have all your scheduled processes on timers?
If not, you're gonna regret it one of these days when you discover that you have accidentally reversed a blomming plant back into Vegg modus by forgetting to turn off a lamp for a day or two. Or also not good, when you open your flowering tent a couple days after a similar event to discover that one of your females suddenly turned hermie from the light confusion stress, sprang balls and pollinated your entire tent of females.
Both of those accidents have happened to me before.
I will admit however, that these accidents have also happened to me AFTER having everything on timers.
There is that little timer-bypass-switch on the timer. If I have to perform an emergency cleaning or pest-control or emergency feeding or something just minutes before the lights are due to come on or just when the lights are about to go off, I sometimes flip that darned bypass switch. I finish my job and then, because I am stoned or just plain stupid, I forget to flip the switch back to timer modus. Such a mistake is often not caught until 24 hours later, or worse, at the next feeding 3 or 4 days later.
I guess what I need to do is to make a tag to hang on the zipper of the tent "TIMER SWITCH", so that I cannot forget about the bypass switch.
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Hello @Bee1984,
Welcome to Strain Hunters.
Here is the grand daddy of all the DIY hydroponics videos. View all 9 episodes.
Enjoy.
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Do you mean like this one?
http://forums.strainhunters.com/topic/771-music4plants-and-sh/
Or you could simply start a new topic of your own. The Chill Out Lounge is a topic-area that is quite open for just about anything.
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Jim, you are right, if the dehumidifier is still in the tent.
I was trying to encourage Shaggy to seal-up the output of the extractor and set the dehumidifier completely outside the tent.
Personally, I think that all these problems will be resolved if he would find a way to seal that output exhaust pipe to the outside. Then he might not even need the dehumidifier.
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Yes, the Perlite adds no nutrients itself, but it allows water to drain away more quickly and thereby oxygen to reach the root ball.
The additional oxygen allows the microbes in the soil to become more active and thereby they create their waste materials which the plants take-up in the roots.
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Interesting characteristics in the cotyledons and the initial leaves.
Interesting texture to your soil. That soil looks like a super-rich compost.
Have you grown in this kind of soil before?
What is the pH of the run-off water?
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Cedar oil, Mungbean?
Please tell us more...
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Have you tried putting the dehumidifier outside of the tent to dehumidify the room that the tent sits in?
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According to Wikipedia ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Springtail ), Springtails (there are many species) are evolved from arthropods. Scientists have only recently stopped considering them as insects.
1. So, if you are considering using a pesticide, it might be better to use an arachnicide instead of an insecticide.
2. (from Wikipedia:) "Springtails commonly consume fungal hyphae and spores, but also have been found to consume plant material and pollen, animal remains, colloidal materials, minerals and bacteria. ....Springtails have internal mouth parts." So, if you could treat the top of your soil with a fungicide, you might deprive them of their food. Because a fungicide might also harm your mychorrhizae, I would suggest only a topical spray treatment of the soil, but a thorough spraying and cleaning of the moist or wet parts of your tent.
3. You could also try a method that works well against roaches. After the cleaning of your tent, sprinkle about a little powdered Boron. The Boron gets on their legs and hairs and on their food. When roaches clean themselves or eat the Boron, it doesn't kill them right away, instead, it enters their digestive tract and destroys their ability to digest their food. They die, and when their body is eaten by the next roach, that individual suffers a similar fate. The roach transports the poison to the other roaches. This makes Boron so effective. I would expect that Boron might also be effective against Springtails.
Here is additional information about Springtails from Orkin Pest Control company. https://www.orkin.com/other/springtails/
Of particular interest is their method of reproduction, and the fact that they reproduce in large numbers, hence large infestations if not treated.
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in Test Area: White Rhino Contest
Posted
WOW, didn't know you were having such serious problems. Yeah, it sounds like a flush is in order. What I do is I take the potted plant to the bathtub, and I use the showerhead on a flexible hose to gently spray the soil for about 2 minutes. I repeat after 15 minutes, Then I repeat again after another 15 minutes. While spraying, if your tub is white, you can see the brownish/yellowish salts and soil chemicals draining away. Usually after the third spraying, it is running pretty clear. Then I let the pot sit in the tub to drain for a half hour or so. Then I return the plant to the lighted tent. After about 4 or 5 days, I resume feeding at about half to 3/4 strength for the first feeding, then full strength after another 2 or 3 days.