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Cannabissapean last won the day on September 22

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About Cannabissapean

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    Grow-Automation Specialist

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    The Great Outdoors, Hiking, Camping, Caving, Kayaking, Bicycling, Gardening, Red Wine, Good Friends, Travelling. Recently added: Working-Out and Loving it!

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  1. MindlessCorpse, welcome to StrainHunters. Please enjoy your exploring the site. It is a really good sign that you wish to do research first. A couple tipps: The "Browse" button will become very useful for you for rapid navigation to most all topics and journals. (scroll down after clicking browse) If you are attempting your first grow in soil, then googling or youtubing "supersoil for cannabis" will show you many good recipes for a good soil mix. If you want to go straight to hydroponics, there is an excellent do-it-yourself video you can view on youtube called "Mr. Green - I Grow Chronic", informative, entertaining, and it works. Feel free to ask questions.
  2. Aww, maan. You just missed the ExpoGrow 2017. It was just last weekend. Your visit should be quite interesting considering the political situation going on there. 1. Catalonia wanting to become independent from Spain, and Spain working politically to block the Catalonia referendum and arresting some protesters. And it may come to pass that Spain might deploy troops to stop the protests. 2. Locals in Barcelona are petitioning the Barcelona government against the tourists taking all the available housing, and against the noise and problems of tourism. Your trip may be very interesting indeed.
  3. Really nice going, Gasmeter.
  4. Yes, there is a town in the Netherlands where you can buy the seeds directly from the GreenHouse Seeds Company. It's called Amsterdam. Here's a link to more information on that: If you cannot get to Amsterdam, then you might be able to find a store near you. I have found two ways to do that. If you would go back into the online store (mentioned before), at the bottom of the page, find "Distributors" and click on "other countries", then click on your nation's flag. Select map-pointers that are near you. OR At the top of any page in this forum, click on "Products", then click on "Nutrients". Here, you may view the nutrients offered by GreenHouse, but at the bottom of those pages, you will find "Store Locator". Some nutrient distributors may also sell the seeds too. Call and ask before driving a long way.
  5. Cindy, I am having difficulty understanding exactly what you are asking when you say, "if I use my bio bizz to my feeding which is half way between this", and when you say, "if I use canna coco and go inbetween what they say". The "half way between this" and "inbetween what they say" is not understandable to me. I don't understand your reference point. If you are asking whether when using coco as a medium, should you mix to a lower EC, I do not know that. My first intuition is to answer, "Mixing to ECs lower than recommended in the charts should not harm your plants. But I expect that mixing solutions to ECs higher than recommended should be avoided; that might lead to toxicity problems. If you are using some other nutrient system, it is definitely not advisable to use the charts and EC schedules from a different product. Can you tell us in this thread which nutrient products you are using or intending to use?
  6. So, g22 (or anyone else who knows or has special knowledge of Amsterdam), please enlighten me... I am planning to visit there in a few weeks for either a weekend or as much as a week. I know that there are museums and restaurants, and I know that there are many other coffeeshops, some with mediocre reputations, others with outstanding reviews, and I do plan to visit many of them. But the MAIN PURPOSES of this trip are to visit the GreenHouse Coffeeshop and Restaurant and to meet other fans of GreenHouse, especially to meet Arjan and Michael if they aren't too busy, and if they happen to be there or can come over: maybe even Jose, Dust, Simon, Levente, Nordic Grower, Jankahar,, hexx.NL, g22, Jimmy, Mykol76, HC01, BamBhole, gonzosghost, lamsbread, laocoo, Lebenszeichen, Mr. X, RainDropzZ, Salvatore Riina, slimjim, GanjaXL, Admin, Tokage and of course any of you other wonderful StrainHunters too numerous to list here. If I drive over there, is there any place I can park my car? I see mostly bicycles. Should I bring my bicycle, or is it better to rent one? (availability, cost, etc.) I see some parking in the photos and I imagine that most parking is reserved for the residents: aren't there any parking garages? Are they secure? Costly? Or is it best to go there by train or plane to avoid parking issues? If I come without a car, are the bicycle rental services reliable, and are there sufficient bicycles available? I would love to hear a few responses from those "in the know".
  7. Something like these:
  8. You would be looking for an "electric/mechanical" timer switch similar to this: There are also "electrical/digital" timer switches available, but they are too expensive and unnecessary for your purpose. Make sure it is rated for 220-Volts (230-Volts is the same rating). When you look at the ring of little switches used for setting the on-and-off times, the better one to get has four tiny switches for every hour. Most likely you will find a timer switch that is suitable for 24-hour settings. This type is called a "DAY-Timer" or "24-hour Timer". That is the type that you want. It allows you to set the on-and-off times for a single day, and as it runs, it will control the lamp the same for each and every day. There is another type that you should NOT get. It is called a "Weekly-Timer". A Weekly-Timer allows you to set timings for 7 different days, that way, each day you can set differently. This is too much, and they are sometimes more expensive.
  9. The previous Amsterdam Coffeeshops Map had changed its URL, so this is the updated Amsterdam Coffeshops Map. I thought this might be helpful for anyone planning to visit Amsterdam. Click here:
  10. It does clump in the hand, and it does fall apart after a 6 inch drop, so that part seems Ok. As far as the mixture goes, I have no idea what you mixed together, but it looks a whole lot better than your garden soil alone. Without having mixed a larger volume in parts that make sense to me, I can only say that it seems to be approaching what one sees when one views other photos of supersoil for cannabis in the internet. But remember, I did suggest that for the initial cup, you should use seedling soil instead of this mixture, because the seedling soil is designed to be mild for the seedling, whereas the mixture here may be a bit sharp. But you had informed me that the shops in your area do not have seedling soil. So, we have no choice except to use this for the initial cup. I recommend that you now moisten this mixture (all of it please) and put it in a bowl or something and allow it to sit covered as long as possible to try to activate some of the microbes within it. Remember, the seed is already germinating in the papertowel. Remember also that in a few weeks you will need to have available another 10 to 15 liters of another mixture similar to this mixture for your final pot. It would have been so much better if you had followed my instructions and mixed it all at the same time in a larger amount, because that larger volume will also need to sit for 3 or 4 weeks to activate the microbes, but you decided otherwise and mixed only one soda-cup. This is your grow. I am just trying to help.
  11. Mangotree, I promised to send you a picture of a grow where the mylar is used to increase the reflectivity within the grow area. This mylar material can also help you to retain the moisture within the grow area as well. Of course, you would need to create some kind of frame, and the use of duct tape or similar materials would be important in order to kelp keep the grow area as air-tight as possible, although it will need to have a little circulation. So here it is: It is found in g22's journal in his post on Tuesday, 20 Sept 2017:
  12. The above has been a very interesting discuission about foliar feeding. As far as foliar feeding my plants, I will say that I have tried it, and it does have positive results as long as you only spray weak solutions of whatever you wish to put into the water being sprayed. I have used Fish-Mix, and yes it does smell fishy for 2 or 3 days, but hey, I sorta figured it would. it is basically pulverized and atomized fish in a solution, thinned out by my weak mixture. Logical. But what I want to get to is this: There is another use for foliar feeding that was not mentioned above, and it is almost compulsory. It is the foliar feeding during the time of CLONING. I wish to share with you my cloning technique because it works so well for both soil grows and for hydroponics. Earlier, I had tried various cloning methods with varying degrees of success. I have a self-made bubble-ponic cloner that yielded only about 50% success rate. And when I cloned straight to Rockwool with drippers, again, only about the same 50% success rate. But I now clone directly into seedling soil (Aussaaterde), and my success rate is almost always 100% for cannabis. But during most any cloning process, you must certainly foliar feed the clone babies by spraying water onto the leaves about twice a day, simply to keep the plant hydrated. Why?, because the cutting doesn't have any roots with which to gather water from the soil. Without foliar spraying, its leaves will quickly dry up. OK, you might say, "Well that's not FEEDING." True, I'm not feeding nutrients through the foliage at that time, but I AM feeding WATER. During cloning, I use only distilled water for foliar feeding my clones. I am very careful not to use any nutrients when spraying my clone's foliage. Cuttings are so fragile in this stressed stage that just about any over-fertilizing on the leaf will lead straight to nute-burn. And spraying tap water or rainwater means you are spraying the plant with various and unknown dissolved minerals or even possible spores of mold or mildew. The minerals will wind-up as dried white spots on the leaves, and any spores could quickly lead to brown stem-rot or leaf-rot. Here is how I clone today: 1. The mother plant needs to be in really good health, growing and reaching for the lamps. With an unhealthy mother-plant it would be unlikely that any clone from her would make it. Cloning is a stressful event, especially for the clone. 2. I mix a very weak solution of RootJuice (Bio-Bizz) at the rate of one-half ml RootJuice to one-half Liter of Distilled Water (not De-ionized Water, they are not the same). The reason I chose one-half Liter is that my RootJuice spray bottle is exactly 1/2 Liter. (I use this spray bottle as a temporary stem-bath for the newly cut clone in this cloning procedure, as you will read. When the cloning procedure is completed, I simply return the sprayer-nozzle to the bottle, and it is immediately ready for use in its normal function as a "RootJuice sprayer" with a fresh, weak solution of RootJuice. This sprayer is designated only for Root-Juice, never for anything else. Same is true of each of my sprayers. Each one is dedicated to only one fluid; I never switch fluids in any sprayer.) 3. I use Schultz "TakeRoot - rooting hormone" powder as the rooting exciter. "TakeRoot" consists of 0,1% Indole-3-butyric Acid, and 99.9% other ingredients, chemically unimportant, they are the white powder that basically serves as the delivery agent for the Acid. (I must say that this 2 ounce jar of "TakeRoot" is about 25 years old, and it is still working great, the batchcode is AE2487192.) 4. My other spray bottle is only for distilled water, mixed with nothing. 5. I use small gardening cups with holes in their bottom (the very same cups you get when you buy small tomato plants or cucumber plants at a gardening store), approximately 60-to-80mm high (4 or 5 inches high), and about 60-to-80 mm in diameter at the top. Any smaller, and the soil might dry-out too quickly in any single day, harming your clone. Any larger, and the roots will take so long to reach the openings in the bottom that you will end-up transferring the plant later than is necessary. (The roots appearing through the holes is one of your signals later in the cloning process.) 6. Clones must be maintained in nearly 100% humidity for their first one or two weeks, so you will need some method of covering the clones with a clear cover that still allows light to get in. At the store, you can buy a seedling tray with a clear cover, or what I do is use clear plastic cups that diced pineapples come in when they are sold fresh-diced at the grocery store. I just drill 9 holes in the bottom of the clear cup and then invert the cup over the soil cup. Their lips fit together perfectly. The holes are for ventilation only at the top of the clear dome. 7. I use simply seedling soil (Aussaaterde) available at most any gardening store or home improvement center. It should have NO added fertilizers, and it should have a pH somewhere between 6,0 to 7,0. I rough-up the soil in the bag, making sure to break-up any clumps, then I dip the cup into it and fill it to the top without pressing it down at all. Then I set the cup of soil into a saucer and spray distilled water onto the surface of the soil to thououghly saturate it until the water runs freely out the bottom of the cup. Then I use a slender object like an icepick or a pencil and sink it straight down the center of the soil all the way to the bottom of the cup. This now sits to the side and waits for the clone. 8. Before I cut anything, I make sure that I have prepared all the above items before I proceed further. Now, I proceed to the cutting. 9. Choose a point on the plant where you will cut the top of the plant or the tip of the branch. To help you determine this cut-point, here are a few conditions. Don't cut yet, I am just describing these conditions: a. Your motherplant should have grown enough that it has at least 4 or 5 or 6 nodes above the cotyledons (the baby leaves). Each of these nodes have new growth that will become the motherplant's new side branches. The first node or node-pair below where you eventually cut will become the motherplant's new tops. Above these lower nodes there should be even more nodes (at least 1 or 2) as we approach the motherplant's current top. These nodes will later be inserted into the soil (after their leaves and new growth has been stripped away). The clones future roots will emerge from these stripped nodes and from the stem around these stripped nodes. The new growth at the tip will remain and become the new leaves of the new clone plant. b. You should choose a cut-point such that the stripped nodes and stem of the clone will be long enough that it will reach all the way down to the bottom of the clone cup, while the new-growth tip shall remain above the surface of the soil. (A clone that has only a very short stem will die more quickly and easily than one that has a stem that sits deeply in the soil. A new-growth top whose nodes sit at or below the surface of the soil will become prone to brown-rot after about one or two weeks in the clone pot.) c. Above the cut-point you should have at least 1 or 2 nodes and then the tip consisting of newgrowth. Each of the nodes shall have 1 or a pair of fan-leaves and certainly also a tiny shoot of new-growth growing out from the node immediately above the fan-leaf's connection point. (These fan leaves and their tiny new-growths will be stripped away after we make the cut.) d. The cut-point should be located no closer than 10mm (1/2 inch) above the last node that shall remain with the motherplant. Cutting too close to a node puts that node at risk from infection because the plant needs time to shut down the cambrium tissues before an infection reaches the node. 10. Make sure that you understand the preceeding conditions in order to choose your cut-point before making the cut. Make sure you understand the following step fully before making the cut. The following step must be performed rapidly, because once the clone is cut, the cut place is exposed to air. The longer it is exposed to air, the greater the damage and infection risk to the internal tissues inside the stem. 11. Using a clean blade or clean shears, cut the plant at the chosen point, some say 45° cut, but I haven't discerned that it makes any difference. Immediately strip away all the major fan leaves and their respective new-growths for any node that will be at or below the surface of the soil. Then quickly set the clone stem into the prepared weak RootJuice solution such that the entire stem including the stripped nodes are IN the solution, but so that the nodes and new growth top is NOT in the solution. Now you can relax again. 12. With clean shears, while the clone is soaking in the weak RootJuice solution, cut all the leaflets of all remaining fan-leaves of the clone to only 1/4 their original length. Yes, cut them that short. The clone cannot afford to devote the energies that remain in its stem to keeping that former 3/4 of each fan-leaf alive. Its burden is greatly relieved by this cut. Conversely, the stem is amply supplied photosynthetic energy from the 1/4 length that does remain. Additionally, the clone must now concentrate its energies from this moment forward on only one thing - growing new roots. Now cut also the tiny new-growth tips about 1/2 their lenght. Same reasons, and additionally, these cuts will provide you nice signals in later weeks to let you know that the clone is finally producing new growth. (If the leaf-mass were to remain, the leaf would try to concentrate the clone's energies on photosynthesis that would result in growth in the top. We don't want that yet. We want the clone to concentrate on making roots. Trust me - Make these cuts!) 13. After 10 or 15 minutes soaking in the weak RootJuice solution, open the lid on the Schultz "TakeRoot". Put the stem of the clone into the powder and coat all the stem that will eventually be below the surface of the soil. When fully coated, then tap the stem a couple times back and forth inside the jar to knock off any excess, then insert the stem directly into the little hole that you had prepared in the seedling soil as deep as it will go without allowing any nodes of the upper greenery to come in contact with the soil. Return the lid onto the jar of "TakeRoot". Now, gently close the soil around the stem, without pressing down. 14. Using the distilled water, now spray the surface of the soil thoroughly again until it again flows from the bottom. Now spray the foliage with the distilled water. This does 2 things each time you spray withthe distilled water. It allows the clone to re-hydrate itself, and it cleans off any soil or residues or possibly spores that may have landed on the leaves. 15. Special Trick! --> Now spray the inside of the clear plastic cover, and place the cover over the seedling cup. This action ensures that the clone will have 100% humidity for many more hours throughout the day than had you not sprayed the inside of the cover. 16. Set clones prepared like this under weak lighting such as fluorescents about 2 feet away from the tube at first. Later they can be closer. You will have to be the judge on that. Read the clones. Direct sunlight or HPS or MH or even LEDs are too intense for clones until they have proven that they want to live by showing you their roots. 17. Clones prepared like this will need to be checked twice a day. Each time, their foliage and inner surface of their cover will need to be sprayed with distilled water. 18. After about one week, and for one time only, you can spray the soil with the weak "RootJuice" solution, trying to spray only around the outer perimeter of the soil and avoiding spraying directly on the stem. After that spray, remember to clean the foliage free of any RootJuice residue by following up with a misting of Distilled water. This procedure gives a little RootJuice to the soil in a manner that encourages the clone to "seek" the RootJuice - that means extending its roots to find the light nutrients. 19. Continue these procedures and monitoring for mold or mildew until one day you finally see a couple white root tips peeking out the bottom of the cup. When you see that, the clone is ready for its transfer, soil, roots and all into its new soil. If it is your intent to transfer the clone into a hydroponics medium, gently wash the seedling soil away in a bowl of water and then place the clone with its new roots in the new medium. Any soils washed away can simply be thrown into your next batch of supersoil or into the composter for re-use later. Others have different methods. This is my method. Hope these ideas help you. Cannabissapean
  13. real easy to find information just google "cannabis jobs in europe":
  14. Welcome to StrainHunters Paula 93. There is certainly a lot to see in here, and I see you have already jumped right in and posted in Robbo's thread about extractions. Continue exploring the site and having fun learning. Let me know if you have any questions. Cannabissapean
  15. Hey, I didn't mean going into a brick-n-mortar store, I meant in the store right here at the top of this page under "Products". Or go to (If you want to see the variety packs with the color-coated seeds, go to the bottom of that page and click on "colored seeds".) Although, if there IS a head-shop somewhere near you, I certainly am not trying to stop your visit there either. We do need to support our local head-shops as well. If you want to find a head-shop near you that sells Greenhouse or Strainhunters seeds, then go to the www.greenhouse (as written above), change the language to english or whatever language you are most comfortable with, then go to the bottom of the page and click on the "store locator for Greenhouse seeds". Real easy to do. Oh, thats right, you are right here in Amsterdam. Nevertheless, I'll leave the paragraph above for anyone else who might find that helpful.

About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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