Those Hesi nutes have a ton of salts, pH correctors, and other stuff that are going to create a less than healthy soil situation over time. Salt build-ups and low-levels of, or no soil-life at all. Unhappy looking plants could be a sign of a less than optimum soil environment. Even the organic ones are loaded with organic acids which can be as harsh on your soil as synthetics can be if you aren't careful. (If you really like this nutrient regimen consider going all soil-less.) Also consider installing an R/O filter if you aren't already using one, and adding a Mycorrhizae product(Great White, ZHO, Orca...) to some of your plain waterings. Looks like a barren soil-situation for your roots, if you are going to stick with soil, consider some sort of mulch layer to help with that. It can be made from any number of things. You can get creative and customize it. Just be sure to research your ingredients first. Not to be too preachy about micro-organisms but if you keep them happy and healthy, they will keep your plants happy and healthy.

Hey fellow growers. I didn't realize the protocol was to introduce yourself so this is a little late. (New to the forum thing.) I have done hydro in the past but I've moved on to strictly living-soil/super-soil method for reasons of flavor and medicinal value. Also I believe learning from mother nature and letting her do her thing is a great way to go about it. I speak English, Dutch, and my German and Spanish are a bit rusty but they are still in there! I climb trees professionally to make my living but my only passion is... well you guys know the answer to that one without me even saying! Cannabis has amazing medicinal value for me for my back, my stomach, and the general stress of waking up at 4 a.m. every morning to do a deadly job.

Ghost, that's a decent mix but I would add crab or oyster shell meal, rock phosphate, Greensand, guano, and Azomite. Mushroom compost is great stuff. Just make sure with super-soil you have a layer of some bark mulch or similar organic-matter layer and not just a barren soil surface. It has the obvious moisture retention benefits but it also creates the proper enviroment for your super elevated levels of microlife. You should be able to move some of your top layer aside and see all kinds of life as well as white fungal hyphae on the organic matter that is "fresher" or still in earlier stages of decomp. I love Subcool but I'm not sure why he doesn't do this. It is a natural part of the forest strata. He probably has his reasons though, he's a cool dude. This also makes top-dressing much more effective as your organic material filters through a "high-microlife" area as you water and as time passes to feed that micro-life. The organic matter would slowly be worked into that living-mulch layer by rain/wind/animals in nature.

I am a professional tree climber from the U.S. and I speak Dutch. Would I be able to find tree-work in NL as a climber?

Very nice first go. It is good you learned the feeding by feel before even having an EC meter. Now when you do get one you will really be dialing it in.

Soil and coco even better than coco and peat in my opinion, although peat is also great. Coco and fuller's earth amended with worm castings, mushroom compost, leaf compost, seabird guano, bio-char and kelp meal is a dank mix. Water with compost teas once a week (in addition to your regular feeding) to speed decomp of all those organic inputs and even add red worms to your containers if you can get your hands on some. Fuller's earth is some great stuff if you aren't already into it. Cheaply available as an all natural oil-dry product for spill cleanups. Just make sure it is 100% fuller's and no additives before you buy.

Give them a rest. 24 is a waste of your electricity, isn't going to be worth the carbon footprint or your $$. Like Dust said, 18/6 is great. Experiment with your times for different grows... when you creep down under 18/6 and approach 14/10 for your veg, you can sometimes bring out some dormant sativa traits in your gene pool that you may not have even knew were in there. Your equatorial sativas are used to a different photoperiod than your Kush's and such. Study your regions and the history of the genetics you are using, back to the landrace if you can.

Also get an exact idea of what your pH is. If you are powder feeding it is most likely correct and stable but depending on your water source, your pH could be fluctuating. Keeping a steady pH is as important as having your pH in the correct range. All of these guys are correct in their advice, I just wanted to add that because it sounded like you might not be monitoring pH. Using a lot of pH Up and pH Down products in soil isn't a good idea, but if you absolutely need to raise, silicate additives(water soluble silicon) raise it dramatically. It is a micronutrient that plants use to strengthten and thicken cell walls anyway and is OK to use in soil. If you absolutely need to LOWER pH, you might have a hard water situation and want to invest in a nice 3 stage filter(reverse osmosis, UV, carbon).

Make sure you are using UNSULFURED blackstrap molasses, especially if you are making teas. Brewing compost tea is something of an art form, just like brewing beer. If you can master making teas they are all you need for an amazing soil grow besides your plain water and a good soil mix to start out. Make sure you are using a GOOD COMPOST as the MAIN INGREDIENT in your tea, making compost is also an art form in itself. If you don't make your own, Ancient Forest is a good substitute until you start making your own. From there you start to step it up with your guanos, kelp, etc... One quick note about guano: I recommend seabird over bat guano, as the process used to aquire the bat guano is quite destructive to the environment.