I'm Sal

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I'm Sal last won the day on July 12

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About I'm Sal

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  1. Hi @Jose.gh Are the WW x Cheese seeds that many of us tested and provided grow dairies for going to be available to buy at any time in the future?
  2. Hi @Jose.gh This competition sounds great and would be more than happy to play my hand as I am undecided what seeds to start in the new year. January is the time I will be starting another grow as I am just finishing of some test Auto's as an experiment. My set up would be the usual.....1.2m x 1.2m tent with 5 soil pots, LST'ed and SCROG'ed under LED's. Those strong Indica Rhino's love a bit of tying down and spreading out to get the best out of them.
  3. No need for weed or thanks @Cindy, my jars are full of quite a few strains to choose from such as Jack Herrer, Kalashnikova, Easy Kush, White Widow x Cheese, The Doctor, Super Bud, White Widow, Blue Treacle and Creamomatic. Just nice to see you end up with the best out your grow and enjoy the results.
  4. There is only one way to see, wait until 70% of the net is full. That might take 1 week or may take 2 weeks....who knows?.....nobody knows how long that will take other than waiting and seeing. There is no time frame at all. You are simply waiting for the net to fill up more to 70% and it seems to be filling up well by your most recent pictures.
  5. Continue to train them under and across the until the net is, at least, 70% full then 12/12 and then the STRETCH will start. Then you will fill the gaps in of the net until your entire net is a canopy of heads and there is no where else to go except upwards. Looking at your grow is it is now, you have all the potential for a excellent canopy covering all of that net because those plants are starting to spread out very nicely. I think that 12/12 is not that far away now because your most recent pictures show, I'd say, up to approx 60% of the net covered already. Well played @Cindy
  6. Anytime @Cindy, I just hope it all makes sense to you and wish you all the best for your grow. It is a very nice grow you have there and I know you have a passion for them so I want the best for you. Remember though, this is just the way I would do things from my experience and in no way telling you that it must be done this way. It is your grow.
  7. It means GRAMS PER WATT @Cindytherefore as an example, if you have 250watt and your final dry yield is 250grams (8.92oz) you will have achieved 1 GRAM PER WATT and likewise, if you got a final dry yield of 195grams (6.96oz) you will have achieved 0.78 GRAMS PER WATT with the same light. BUT, despite using the same lights, every grow WILL NOT be the same for anyone so it is impossible to determine yield in advance. Wet weights are pointless so no need wasting time on this too.....its just as pointless as trying to estimate the final yield at anytime before the plant is done to the point of totally dry and smokable. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news @Cindybut I do not think even the best growers in the world with optimal conditions achieve, on a regular basis, 459grams (16.39oz) PER PLANT. Those weights are "freaks" in my opinion but the do exist and in very few and fair between occasions. @ShaggyGrower, I usually grow 5 plants at a time with 5ish weeks veg. I have as many as 7 plants in there but 2 of those were "experiments" as there were purposefully abused so they kept tiny as I did not want to throw them because anything from them is more for my jars. VEG is 18/6 for 5ish weeks as I said and FLOWER is initially, 12/12 for about 4 weeks then decreasing by about 30mins per week so on week 8 of flower so I finish on a 14/10 light schedule with that being 14 dark and 10 hours light. For what I spend in electric it worries me nothing and I have no complains at all. It is 375watts when in FLOWER and LESS than that in VEG so it is nothing and I would have no issues running 375watts all day every day if need be. Light distance, VEG about 1mtr and FLOWER is about half of that....20" and with me that gives me enough spread to cover all the plants in my 1.2m floor area. Nutrients as always are Growth Technology's Ionic range for soil (Plant Magic Supreme) including, Ionic Grow &Bloom, Ionic Cal-Mag, Ionic PK and also Nectar for the Gods Herculean Harvest. No CO2, no need on small grows such as most like ours and very hard to get right, plus very costly if doing it right, so why the need when I for example am perfectly happy with my yield without it. Conditions are key and regular fresh air circulation is crucial and never vent into the same room. Like I said @Cindy, I would be leaving the 12/12 until the net is at least 70% then 12/12 and you will fill the rest up easy with both vertical and horizontal grow. Got to remember that you need the upward growth so that all those heads will end up looking like big thick solid buddage about 8" to 10" above the net. Last thing you want is an under-filled net with no more stretch left in the plants because you switched to 12/12 too early. 70% as above and if there, switch.
  8. That is totally dry weight of course, no point in even looking at weights when wet. It really serves no purpose at all other than to disappoint because its certain that you will lose 80% of that weight when it dries. All weights given are totally dry and you will find my grow dairies, with pictures, on here showing those exact grows relating to the weights I have given.
  9. I grow in a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.0m with a combination of LED's pulling a REAL wattage from the wall of approx 375 watts. Yield is obviously strain, care and conditions dependent and GPW I have grown so have a range of 0.88GPW to 1.33GPW or in weight terms 12oz (336g) to 18oz (504g) (give or take a few grams to the ounce). I can't complain with the use of LED's and have no plans in swapping to anything else anytime soon.
  10. Hi @Cindy I would do it this way but it is your grow. Like I said over 2 weeks ago, bushy plants are great but you need height also and you have introduced the SCROG net a little too soon. I would have just continued with the LST and defoliation of lower 3rd of plants then get the SCROG net on when you have the height then just feed into the net until 70% full before 12/12. For the sake of repeatedly posting the same thing just re-read my last few posts and nothing has changed. You need that net at least 70% full then 12/12 can be started unless you will waste all that floor space making yield suffer greatly consider the growing method you are trying to create to lead to greater yields. If you start the on 12/12 anytime soon the use of the SCROG net will have been pointless. Sorry but just wish you all the best out of your grow and this issue can be solved before it even starts.
  11. From now until 3 weeks from now it would be best to take off all the bushy lower section under the SCROG net and come harvest the image below is what you should be aiming at regarding amount to take off steadily and regularly from now:
  12. Exactly that and see where you are in 3 weeks. Now the net is down I would defoliate the entire bottom of the net over the next 3 weeks as well as feeding the new growth through the net at least 3 x a week so you fill as much as the net possible. When it is at least 70% full then switch to 12/12 and the 2 week stretch going into flower will give all them new growth chance to grow 6" to 8" above the net to create a canopy of colas.
  13. Hi Cindy, Two weeks on from my last post and for me the way forward is still the same and you are way too early to even consider switching to 12/12. Below is the copy and paste 2 weeks ago when you said you were still vegging for another 4 weeks at least: You have 4 small bushy plants, already topped twice (and thinking of topping again) which will produce already multiple prominent colas without the undergrowth that will shoot up when the net is in place. I would play it his way, forget the net for a week because you said you plan to veg for another 4 weeks so plenty of time. 1, Carry on with the existing LST really exposing the centre of the plant....opening it up so to speak. 2, Have a good defoliation of the lower growth, I remove about 1/3rd of all lower stalks and continue this gently but regularly. 3, Give them a week to 10 days of growing whilst adding/removing/adjusting LST ties until you can see the centre of the plant filling up with new growth coming to join the top canopy. 4, See where you are in 10 days and then think about the SCROG net and remember, you need a nice 12" to play around with under the SCROG net to the tops of the pots. This, ideally, needs to be a clear area, free of growth which will hinder and produce popcorn buds, so whist it is great to have small bushy plants you will need to get a bit of height to them and now is the perfect time. Play with them LST ties for a while longer yet and the SCROG net will have a nice spread of tops to float over which you can feed new growth into for the remaining 2 to 3 weeks veg. @Cindy, Please do not even think anbout switching to 12/12 when you have barely 50% of the SCROG net filled. Seriously, you need your net at least 70% full of countless shoots from as many squares possible. You need height and width to the plants hence the use of a SCROG net to spread them out as wide as possible over the light footprint of the tent. If you switch to 12/12 any time soon you will have small bushy plants that cover no more than the diameters of their pots (like now) as I tried to suggest in my last post. Defoliation weekly, LST 3x weekly, defoliation weekly, more LST 3 times a week....rinse and repeat then SCROG net and weave daily for 2 to 3 weeks. Bingo, a canopy packed full of chunky colas at harvest time.
  14. @Cindy, no need to work out measurement from the plant tops to the SCROG net. Remember, you will need good access under the net when these bushes become much bigger bushes. You have 4 small bushy plants, already topped twice (and thinking of topping again) which will produce already multiple prominent colas without the undergrowth that will shoot up when the net is in place. I would play it his way, forget the net for a week because you said you plan to veg for another 4 weeks so plenty of time. 1, Carry on with the existing LST really exposing the centre of the plant....opening it up so to speak. 2, Have a good defoliation of the lower growth, I remove about 1/3rd of all lower stalks and continue this gently but regularly. 3, Give them a week to 10 days of growing whilst adding/removing/adjusting LST ties until you can see the centre of the plant filling up with new growth coming to join the top canopy. 4, See where you are in 10 days and then think about the SCROG net and remember, you need a nice 12" to play around with under the SCROG net to the tops of the pots. This, ideally, needs to be a clear area, free of growth which will hinder and produce popcorn buds, so whist it is great to have small bushy plants you will need to get a bit of height to them and now is the perfect time. Play with them LST ties for a while longer yet and the SCROG net will have a nice spread of tops to float over which you can feed new growth into for the remaining 2 to 3 weeks veg. Just my opinion like and wish you well
  15. Hi @Cindy, You so have some nice compact bushes there. Something good could be made of them. I do think you are confusing the SoG (Sea of Green) growing method with the SCRoG (Screen of Green) method. There is no use of a net with SoG and the plants are vegged for a minimum if any veg time at all. It is used to maximize floor space and also seed to harvest is much quicker. What you are doing is SCRoG, you will find that it is better to let your plants grow into the net. I very nearly always SCRoG as it creates a good even canopy but once the stretch is over 2 weeks into flowering the SCRoG net becomes a pain and proves a real hurdle if/when you get a poorly or closer inspection of the plants when they are budding. I always remove the net about 3 weeks very max in flower as it has served its purpose. This is a good read regarding SoG vs SCRoG: https://www.zamnesia.com/blog-scrog-vs-sog-which-is-right-for-you-n935

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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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