I'm Sal

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Everything posted by I'm Sal

  1. Hi All, This grow will start mid January to end February depending on the weather. First grow for 2018 and it's the Indica prominent White Rhino. Perfect for extreme LST and....maybe SCROG. Lets see when we get to that stage. Anyways, list of bits and bobs I'll be using for this: EQUIPMENT: BudBox Pro 1.2m x 1.2m x 2m (White Interior) RAM 5" Carbon Filter 350m/hr RAM 5" Extraction Fan 378m/hr on controller RAM 4" Fan 277m/hr on controller (ACTIVE INTAKE THROUGH SPARE CF TO MINIMIZE PESTS) 2 x 80w Tube Heaters The combination above creates a nice environment for 8/9 months of the year until winter comes when it is too cold to grow as stealthy as I like.. MEDIA & FEED: 50% Bio Bizz Light Mix 25% Coco 25% Perlite A test mix I have been playing with which might suit the GHSC feed well as there will be very minimal nutritional value in the media. Not a fan of forever potting up so the seeds will be germed in 3lt pots then onto 11ltr final pots. 5 x 3lt pots (GERMINATION / EARLY VEG) 5 x 11lt pots (FINAL POT) Feed will be solely GHSC GROW, BLOOM & ENHANCER and NOTHING else LED: 2 x ViparSpectra 450w (TRUE WATTAGE approx 200w each) 1 x Go Grow V1 Master Grower 600w (TRUE WATTAGE approx 200w) Early veg will be under 1 x ViparSpectra than the other LED's will be steadily introduced until all 3 units are up and running during flower. I want a nice thick canopy to aim at and this "crash of Rhinos" are very nice candidates to play with. Looking forward to the New Year to get started. Goodluck all
  2. Hi @LedCherryBerry, I have always understood and performed LST in a way that the first step is to actually train the main stalk. I thought doing it this way, bent in such a way that the actual head is brought down to a lower level. Then the lower levels of bud sites are then tied also to gain width and all the time, because the main top is restrained, all bud sites will get to the same level and adjust/add ties as necessary. I fear the way you have started is simply lowered the level of most bud sites without doing anything to the stem. If you look at a few tutorials you will soon see. Shes coming on now.
  3. The plant that started the 3 nodes with me has continued to do so. Everything after the start of 3's has continued that way. I think that particular 3 noded freak of mine now has over 25 heads on the last count! It is a genes issue but a nice issue to have.
  4. Just a quick picture update whilst I was in there giving them a WATER ONLY watering and so scissor work called defoliation. A kind of plain watering / flush, they was not dry to the bone to start so 5ltrs through each plant and had a run off of over 3ltrs per plant. I'll do this again a few times during flower but with more water. As you know, they have had only GHSC Enhancer and PM CAL-MAG PRO so need to start thinking about using the GHSC Bio Bloom but they are already in their final pots. Top dressing it looks the only option. No more LSTing and letting them stretch you can see I have some early shooters already. These Rhinos are now 38 days old in total and been in 12/12 for 3 days. In the last 3 days you will see the 1.2m x 1.2m area has filled up a fair bit and that is with tonight's defoliation which was a lot as you can see in the pictures. Maybe a bit rough with them but they will be better for it in the long run. The rest of the pictures with just a camera and flash. Pistils showing next week I'm hoping then we can get a real idea where this is going.
  5. Decided against the usual SCROG for my grow this time @ShaggyGrower. Simple but brutal LST only has resulted in 2 plants with no main head and about 3 good nodes (pairs) below...call that heavy handed but shit happens. Many tops using LST (I can see between 25 and 11 tops on mine) so very similar to a SCROG just as you will see here http://www.growweedeasy.com/low-stress-training-lst
  6. Indeed! Olympics and this lovely cocktail of kief smothered canna..........
  7. Just a suggestion and I am sure you will research the hell out of it. Happy growing as you say.
  8. 58 days flowering with no amber. Expecting too much too soon. Step away from the scissors and enjoy the bits you have chopped in you eagerness. Not even read your plant specs but I would safely say they need another week or two at the very least. Let the amber come if you are not desperate for a smoke and the best comes to those that wait. Well, that's what I would do. Less is more remember and this concerns eagerness vs satisfaction.
  9. I did consider using a SCROG net with these @LedCherryBerry and I usually do but since the LSTing seemed to be doing the trick I decided not to use it. Besides, when I use a SCROG net I always end up removing (cutting it out) after they have had their 12/12 stretch because I find the net hinders maintenance when the plants are budding and need a closer eye kept on them. As for vertical SCROG, nahhh....not for me, no need to fix the unbroken and the usual SCROG method is just fine when needed. These Rhinos will gain their vertical height over the next 10 days or so, by which time there should be a nice height of tops to bud up. Hoping, eventually because of their uniformity so far, for a nice plentiful canopy of colas all firmly standing proudly come harvest time. If this is the case the top colas will come off first and the bottoms left to "cook" a little more.
  10. Harvest time is always nice but I think in this case the outcome of the "buds vs stalks" is very clear. That is one chunky stalk but it has buds and popcorn buds. Little point in weight wet though full of stalks because it will disappoint. Looking at that stalk and stems at 34.5g wet, it will lose around 75% in moisture bringing it to approx 8.6g, then that chunky stalk and stems need to be thrown leaving it less than 4g max in my opinion. I find it better to just cut the top main colas, leaving the lower buds which are under developed (such as the bud clusters and popcorn below the 2 main clusters on your picture) to gain more light exposure for a week of so fill out and "ripen" so to speak with the shading of the higher buds which have already been chopped. With all the main top colas already cut, simply trim them wet and hang for 5 to 7 days at 65c - 68c / < 40% RH, then cut form the stalks/stems and into brown paper bags at 50c to 60c if possible for as long as you want really. No real need in my opinion for jars but I do use them for buds that has been in brown bags for at least 3 months. As for weighing, I always do it when dry now without stalks/stems, only material you intend to use for its purpose, because it does disappoint I guess and it is a fact we must accept. Taking 75% away in moisture is a massive hit so no need for further disappointment by weighing the stalks/stems too which have to be taken away from the final haul. When it comes to harvesting the lower buds it is just a case of rinse and repeat.
  11. This is a decent site to get an idea of LED growing and also he is conducting a test at the moment with the ViparSpectra ledgardener.com/
  12. Thanks @evolution666, yeah they do seem to be doing well for their age. Lets see how long it is before the pistils start forming. Cheers @LedCherryBerry, will have to keep an eye on their stretch because I do think it could get tight in there. So far they are all very uniform and, hopefully, I can now leave them to gain some vertical height (no more LSTing if possible) all at the same time.
  13. Nothing wrong with testing and each to their own @ShaggyGrower but sometimes having too many "targets" to aim for all to fall in line at any particular time is generally impossible. As well as growing, I have had many on and off years keeping a marine reef set up which also have "targets" to chase. In fact far more many "targets" than this growing game. When I first started with the marine set up I bought all the top notch stuff (all equipment & test kits) including livestock (fish & corals) which cost a small fortune and more! Then I chased the "targets"...........costly disaster after costly disaster despite the "targets" I was aiming for being within a good range. I lost interest but started again, which I did many times over the years, and concentrated on having healthy livestock and used them as my guide but still kept the numbers as close as I could even though mostly they were outside most ranges. I had the most healthy of reefs and livestock when the supposed "targets" did not correlate ideally. No different to growing and here is the place to find out what works for some of us and consideration could be given to it from outside the "target" box. The forum is for exactly that and here you can see how grows get on. I honestly believe, from experience, that having too many numbers in your head can just over complicate things. Take even the most simplest thing such as weighing the pots.........you already know what you have put in them using the liter scale but then try to correlate that scale of measurement with KG by weighing them also. Besides, all the plants will tell you when they need water or not and a simple lift and feel will more than suffice. I must reiterate, each too their own but since you are a new grower I am sure you will not be carrying on the same routine as you are now after a few more grows. Maybe soil to start with may have been a better introduction to growing your own smoke. As for all the posters on your other grow thread not picking up on the bait you left.......sorry but I strongly suspect it was not picked up on simply because most growers simply do not do what you are doing and also the format, if it is read, is too complicated to read at a glance. No need to try and trip any of us up buddy. Just speaking from experience @ShaggyGrowerand I have learned no need to over complicate things always hovering over them.
  14. It seems a very bumpy road so far @ShaggyGrowerand hope it gets smoother. Just going through your grow threads, this and your budding grow, and all those measurements, pot weights and tests would send me over the edge. I think chasing the numbers just leads to problems, best to keep it simple. Seems more time is lost chasing numbers and watching plants suffer whilst valuable growing time is lost. I have also found that constantly moving plants does disturb them and restrict development. Plants have senses just like humans and know much more than you would think. Hope things get better.
  15. The timer has just been changed. After 35 days since sprouting the flip to flowering has begun, 12.25 lights off / 11.45 lights on using 2 x ViparSpectra 450w. One of these units will be replaced by a GoGrow (formerly Virgin Bourneo) V1 Master Grower 600w which runs at approx 200 REAL watts with the following specifications:
  16. Hi @AceBlaze, I have been using ViparSpectra, among others, for more than 2 years. Whilst I agree that they are very good lights for the cost, they are very far from the best. Firstly, I do not rate KID LED units for the price. I know a fair bit about the (murky) LED industry and I can think of countless other LED units I would choose before ever considering a KIND unit. There are currently no end of LED suppliers that claim this and that but if you are looking for the higher end range it is a lot cheaper building your own unit. A combination of Samsung LM561C and CREE CXB3590 diodes will provide everything you will ever need. I am actually talking to a few suppliers regarding a custom build. As for the ViparSpectra, yes they are good and they do their job very well but I only apply that statement to VEG ONLY using ViparSpectra ONLY. This is because the development I have seen during veg using these has been very pleasing on all my grows BUT during flower I have ALWAYS used a different branded LED unit with more "red" to run alongside the ViparSpectra. What the ViparSpectra will do ALONEG during flower I do not know but I have seen good results with this unit alone and I have no plan on replacing my 2 ViparSpectra units anytime soon.......well.....until my custom build materializes. How are you finding your new ViparSpectra @ShaggyGrower? As for the hanging height, there is no recommendation at all. You have to play around with them and let the plants tell you. Obviously their heat can be felt close to the unit but it drops right off within inches. To me, anything more than 2ft during the very early stages is a waste because if you try it you will be very surprised at how close you can get them compared to the suppliers recommendations. Be daring and soon the plants will tell you exactly what height they like. At the moment I have my 2 x ViparSpectra 450ws (approx 390 REAL LED WATTS) about 1ft from the plant tops with no sign of distress with them all praying for more but I keep LSTing them down! Play with the height and you will see these units are even better. These are 35 days old using ViparSpectra.
  17. Hi Everyone, Back earlier than expected so an update. All 5 Rhinos have come on very well since last Wednesday. 35 days old from breaking soil and after extreme LST they need to be flipped to 12/12 very soon because I could have the potential to run out of space during their stretch. They are in a 1.2m x 1.2m Bud Box Pro and they have filled the space very quickly. As previously posted, as seedlings they had a few days under 2 small LED bulbs then straight under 1 x ViparSpectra 450w to which another ViparSpectra 450w was added during the last 10 days / 2 weeks up to where we are today. All that has been fed is GHSC Bio Enhancer (twice only since potting up to these final pots) and a touch of CAL-MAG. The 2 Rhinos in the 15ltr pots can cope with 3lts and the 3 Rhinos in the 11ltr pots can cope with 2.5lts both with about 0.5ltr run off. Not much else to say really except all appears to be going very well, all plants seem to be in tip top health and I will make the decision to switch to 12/12 maybe today even because I am thinking about space. Anyways, pictures without lights, just flash and you can see that all plants are in fine health.
  18. Thanks for the positive comments @slimjim. As for the heaters, they are no secret. They are purposefully fixed under the pallet the plants sit on. They are set via thermostat and should the temps get below 23c they both kick in. They sometime kick in during lights out but when lights on the LED units keep it all nice. Because the heaters are permanently fixed I have just left them there because in the colder months I need them but fine otherwise. They are 80watts each and do the job great for keeping the roots from serious cold. Hope this helps.
  19. Hi Everyone, Slight change of plan here because I have been called away for a long weekend (Friday to Monday) so won't be around for an update during that time as planned. Anyway, here is where I am..... For plants being just 30 days old today, since breaking soil, I have never seen such vigor which I can recall. These 5 Rhinos have been showing altering nodes for at least a week and as they stand now they could be flipped into flower no problem. I was actually thinking of flipping them into flower this weekend but since I won't be around, I have decided to wait. So far these have been an absolute pleasure to grow, vigorous, trouble free and healthy as can be. I think this has been a combination of factors, primarily the use of GHSC Bio Enhancer and also the growing media mix (Bio Bizz Light Mix / Coco / Perlite). These Rhinos have NOT been fed any GHSC Bio Grow simply because I did not want to run the risk of overfeeding considering all the 5 Rhinos have been racing along. You can see by the pictures that all plants are very healthy from the little nutrients they should/would be getting in the growing media and also the GHSC Bio Enhancer alone. All 5 plants have been watered today and it was about 2 weeks since their last dose of GHSC Bio Enhancer so they all got more today. Only at the lesser dosage recommendation of 1/2g per litre of water. Also they got 0.25ml per litre of Cal-Mag simply because when using LED's these nutrients are used at a much faster rate and I have always added minimal amounts to all my grows with no ill effect. Since I grow in many soil, I never PH as the soil sorts that out but out of curiosity I did check the PH today. Nutrient rich water going in today was a PH of 7.1, there was about 1/2ltr of run off from each plant and all 5 had a PH of 6.4 to 6.5. Sounds about right to me within the pot media so all appears fine but with soil the PH should be near as damn it most of the time. The 2 Rhinos in the 15ltr pot got 3ltrs each and the 3 Rhinos in the 11ltr got 2.5 ltrs each and all left about 1/2ltr run off. Hopefully this watering will last them until next week as I want them dry when I get back. Well, some pictures, what do you all think about these for just 30 days old..........
  20. Just been for a quick look at the Rhinos and they are not at all "babies" anymore. No pictures until the weekend at the earliest and you will how much they are coming on. They have plenty of arms and a super structure. The way this grow is going I will have to consider the flip to 12/12 sooner than I thought because these are going to be very bushy Rhinos with lots of colas.
  21. As my previous post stated..."I have really been brutal with the LSTing" and as a result today we have the main cola of 1 plant completely gone. I did try a fix right away but you quickly know if it is going to work out well....unfortunately this main cola will not make it any further. Not overly concerned at all really, these things happens and I've done it many times before, it will just slow the plant down for a few days and what the plant has lost here it will gain elsewhere.
  22. A little tip, totally ignore the height recommendations because they are not correct. You can get the LEDs a lot closer to the plants than 24". Feel the heat with your hand to get the range then let your plants decide if its too hot and/or intense then adjust accordingly. Currently I have the 2 x 450s (approx 375 REAL watts combined) running at about 10" above the plants and keep a very stable 26C lights on and 22C lights off with the plants showing no signs at all from light and/or heat distress.
  23. I see no "shame" in getting an LED at all. You will see the wonders it makes within days. Especially the brand you have chosen because out of any lighting source & brand, within my budget range, the ViparSpectra brand wins hands down because does exactly what its supposed to do efficiently . What made you choose ViparSpectra out of all the countless that are out there currently? In my "old", as I would class them, growing days I would use MH only during veg and I thought they were good....these LED's, I would say are better, much better even. I have tried and tested them many times and they have such a spectrum, with both VEG & BLOOM switches on, which seem to send plants into overdrive during veg and early bloom but I have always used an additional "RED"er LED unit during flower. I remember when these units hit the market a few years ago now I think and they had a "similar" but "different" spectrum in some way to all the other LED manufacturers such as Mars and others within that price range. Anyways, the spectrum that is used was tried sometime during the 90s , I think, by NASA with very good results. I remember digging some old documents off the internet and sitting for hours with them and there is some interesting reading. Sorry but I can't seem to find where I put them now. Anyways, I did a decent bit of digging before I got into the LED way forward and the whole market is an absolute minefield and that is still the way it is today. Amazing the units that are being assembled, sorry "manufactured" by certain LED lighting "premier" brands are no better than CERTAIN "budget" brands.....the only difference is the inflated retail price totally omitting the fact that most of those units came from the very same factory....even down to their branded casings (which is an added extra should the client decide). Shameful and it does happen. If I were ever to change it would be from manufactures such as Grow Northern Telos range or Timber Grow Light (DIY) who's kits are really top notch. If the latter were not in the USA I would give Timber a go because all the 3 ranges they have, CREE, Citizen & Bridgelux Vero series (in that order imo), are all top notch. Anyways, I'm waffling and need coffee and a smoke, some self grown Royal Creamatic from RQS is on the menu until I decide on something else.
  24. Cheers @slimjim, I have really been brutal with the LSTing but within a few hours they were all reaching for the light again. They really do seem to have so much strength and vigor for plants that are not even 4 weeks old yet! As you can see I did a fair bit of defoliation too but now they have all adjusted to their new position, it seems like I have not done any defoliation. More of the same is planned, just LST and more veg. Might decide against a SCROG net but unsure just yet. I will see how these progress in a week or so as you say. Thanks again.
  25. Exactly, the sun does not stop red light when just in veg. They need full spectrum all the time and the only difference is that they may use certain spectrum more or less in each stage of development. The difference is huge as you say, I have done it myself.

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