Light Output Comparison Chart Grow Light Comparison Chart Grow Light Watts Growing Area Heat Output Recommended Light Height Above Plants Bulb Life (hours) Primary Secondary Incandescent 150 0.5' x 0.5' 1' x 1' Medium 1' to 2' 2,000 CFL 40 1' x 1' 2' x 2' Very Low 3" to 1.5' 10,000 CFL 125 2' x 2' 3' x 3' Low 6" to 2' 10,000 CFL 200 2.5' x 2.5' 4' x 4' Low 6" to 2' 10,000 2' T5 (single) 24 1' x 2' 1.5' x 2.5' Very Low 3" to 2' 20,000 2' T5 (2 bulbs) 48 1.5' x 2.5' 2' x 3' Very Low 3" to 2' 20,000 2' T5 (4 bulbs) 96 2' x 3' 3' x 4' Low{C} 6" to 2' 20,000 4' T5 (single) 54 1' x 4' 1.5' x 5' Very Low 3" to 2' 20,000 4' T5 (4 bulbs) 216 2.5' x 5' 4' x 6' Low 6" to 3' 20,000 4' T5 (8 bulbs) 432 4' x 6' 6' x 7' Low 1' to 3' 20,000 HPS 250 3' x 3' 5' x 5' Medium 2' to 3' 24,000 HPS 400 5' x 5' 8' x 8' High 3' to 4' 24,000 HPS 600 6' x 6' 10' x 10' High 3' to 4' 24,000 HPS 1000 8' x 8' 12' x 12' Very High 4' to 6' 24,000 MH 250 3' x 3' 5' x 5' Medium 2' to 3' 10,000 MH 400 5' x 5' 8' x 8' High 3' to 4' 10,000 MH 1000 8' x 8' 12' x 12' Very High 4' to 6' 10,000 Growing Area The growing areas listed above assume the light bulbs are being used in a fixture with a reflector similar in quality to the ones offered on this web site. Primary - Use the area in this column if the grow light will be the main or only source of light for the plants. This includes areas where minimal light comes {C}from windows or standard house/office lights. Secondary - Use the area in this column if the grow light will be used in a greenhouse or other area that receives direct sunlight for part of the day to supplement the light from the sun. Heat Output The chart above uses a combination of the light bulb temperature and the dimensions of the bulb(s). Bulb Average Bulb Temperature . Bulb Average Bulb Temperature T5 100 to 120° F Incandescent 220 to 260° F CFL 130 to 180° F MH/HPS 450 to 550° F How Long Should Grow Lights Run? This depends on the type of plant. Foliage plants need about 14-16 hours of light per day. Flowering plants need 12-16 hours of light per day. You should give most plants at least 8 hours of total darkness daily. Try to have the lights on at the same time every day. You can get an automatic timer for your lights to make it easier. The Electrical Cost to Run a Grow Light System To get the operating cost per hour for a light, take the lights combined wattage, and divide it by 1000 to get the kilowatts used. Then multiply that number by the amount your electric company charges per kilowatt hour. HID lights will use the number of watts it emits per hour, ie; 600w system will use 600 watts per hour (regardless of spectrum). (light wattage output / 1000) x electricity cost per kilowatt hour = Operating cost per hour operating cost per hour x hours used per month = Operating cost per month How the Sunlight Affects Plant Growth 200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is extremely harmful to plants because it is highly toxic. 280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade. 315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to plant growth. 380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range. 400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth) 520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments. 610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding) 720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by chlorophyll here. Flowering and germination is influenced. At the high end of the band is infrared, which is heat. 1000+ nm Totally infrared range. All energy absorbed at this point is converted to heat.

Calcium (Ca) Macro Nutrient and an MIcro Nutrient. Calcium is another important element that helps the plants cell walls, cell division in making the plants stems, stalks, branches stronger, as well as contributing to root growth, mostly the newer root hairs, Calcium also helps enhancing the uptake of K in the plants roots. Calcium moves really slow within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. When plants exhibit a Calcium deficiency the younger leaves are the first to show it as well as older leaves. The Leaf tips will die back, the tips may curl, and growth of the plant is stunted. The plant can show a weakness in the stems and branches, as well as a under developed root system that can lead to bacteria problems with roots dying off. Having slow plant transpiration rates can aggravate the uptake of calcium. Make sure your soil isn’t very acidic, for calcium gets harder to be absorbed through acidic soils, which leads to having a plant that is deficient in Calcium. The leaf tips, edges and new growth will or may turn a yellow/brown color that happen in spots and often surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge and then the leaf tips die back. If too much calcium is given at an early stage of growth it can stunt the growth of your plants. Having to much of calcium will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium. The parts affected by a calcium deficiency are the roots. Stem or petiole, young or old leaves. Too much Calcium will lead to other micronutrient deficiencies. Calcium fixation is caused by many types of mediums such as: clay soils, unbuffered coco and humus. The lime tends to bond to these soils very easily. The stems of the plant will not be able to hold the plant up and will exhibit a white brown in between the veins of the leaves when having too much calcium. Also having to much potassium and or nitrogen will cause a calcium lockout. Problems with Calcium being locked out by PH troubles Very acidic soils with excessive potassium, dry and or wet soil. Lack of calcium in the soil may cause too acidic soil. This may cause to Mg or Iron deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Soil Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at pH levels of 2.0- 6.4 Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 6.5-9.1 (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 2.0- 5.3 Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 5.4-5.8 (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency. Solution for Fixing a Calcium Deficiency To fix a calcium deficiency you can treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomite lime or Garden lime per quart of water, Or Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Calcium in them will fix a Calcium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Or you can take crushed up dolomite lime or garden lime in a gallon of water and water it in the soil. 1 to 2 teaspoons per gallon of water, which will be slow acting. Garden Gypsum, which is medium absorption. Limestone, which is medium absorption, Rock Phosphate and Animal wastes which are both medium/slow absorption. Note: Caution when using gypsum to an already acid soil (pH that is less than 5.5) can have a very bad effect on different types of plants by affecting the absorption of soil aluminum, which is poison to plant roots. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Zinc (Zn) Micro Nutrient and an immobile element. Zinc plays a lot of roles in the plants, first off zinc aids in the plants size and maturity as well as production of leaves, stalks, stems and branches. Zinc is an essential component in many enzymes as well as growth hormone auxin. Low auxin levels can be the cause of stunting of the plants leaves and the shoots. Zinc is also important in the formation and activity of chlorophyll. Plants that have a good level of Zinc, can handle long droughts. So that’s why Zinc plants an important role how it absorbs moisture. Zinc deficiencies on some plants will have the Spotting and bleached spots (chlorosis) between the veins first appears on the older leaves first, and then goes on to the immature leaves. It will then start to slowly affect tips of growing points of the plants. When the zinc deficiency happens so suddenly, the spotting can appear to be the same symptoms to that of an iron and manganese, without the seeing the little leaf symptom. Zinc is not mobile in plants so the symptoms will occur mainly in the newer growths. Having a plant that is deficiency in Zinc can cause small crops, short shoots and have a cluster of small distorted leaves near the tips. Between the veins (Interveinal) yellowing is often combined with overall paleness. Pale or grayish, yellowing between the veins; rosetted weak is the signs of a Zinc deficiency. With a low level of zinc in your plants, your yields will be dramatically reduced. Interveinal chlorosis is present in the small, narrow distorted leaves at the ends of really shortened shoots and the shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. These nutrients will get locked out due to high pH: Zinc, Iron, and Manganese. These deficiencies will often occur together. Parts affected by a zinc deficiency are young leaves and petioles. Having an excess of Zinc is very rare, but when it does happen it can cause wilting and in worse cases death. Problems with Zinc being locked out by PH troubles High pH, Low organic matter, High Phosphorus levels in the soil, and or lack of nitrogen. Soil Zinc gets locked out of soil growing at pH levels of 4.5-4.7, 7.5-9.5 Zinc absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 5.0-7.0 (I wouldn’t recommend having a soil pH of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Zinc gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 5.7-8.5 Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 4.0-5.5 (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency. Solution for Fixing a Zinc Deficiency Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a Zinc deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) And any of the following nutrients will fix a zinc deficiency: Zinc sulfate, zinc chelated, or zinc oxides are adequate fertilizer sources for zinc. Or you can bury galvanized nails in the soil. (Make sure you take off the sharp point at the end to prevent roots from being damaged) Garden Manure, which is slow acting. Greensands, Cottonseed Meal are both medium/slow absorption as well. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Iron (Fe) Micro Nutrient and an Immobile element Iron is an important component of the plants enzyme and is also important for the transportation of electrons while photosynthesis is happening... Iron reacts with many of the components of nutrient solutions, which will cause a nutrient lockup to occur, If you add to much Iron without adding enough Phosphorus, you can contribute to a phosphorus deficiency , so watch out how much iron and phosphorus your nutrients have. The Leaves on the plant can turn a pale yellow along the growing shoots, while the veins remain dark green. When you have pH imbalance, it can make iron insoluble. The tissue between the veins becomes pale or white, kind of mimics the magnesium deficiency, but not yellow, iron has the white where the yellow would be on the magnesium deficiency. The deficiency starts with the lower and middle leaves, while the new leaves become completely lacking in chlorophyll, but with little or no necrotic spots. The chlorotic mottling on new leaves starts first near the bases of the leaflets, so the middle of the leaf appears to have a yellow mark. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves really slowly in the plant. Harder for outdoor plants to absorb when in hot weather. Parts affected by the Iron Deficiency are: Young leaves and Petioles. To much Iron can cause a problem that looks like a PH imbalance, Brown spotting on the top leaves, mainly fan leaves. Can affect the whole plant. Iron Toxicity is rare for Ph below 5.5. Problems with Iron being locked out by PH troubles Over watering, pests nematodes, not enough drainage, like not enough perlite. High ph, Soils with low iron, High Phosphorus, Excess Zinc, manganese or copper. Soil Iron gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-3.5 Iron is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 4.0-6.5 (I wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an Iron Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Iron gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-3.5 Iron is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 6.0 (I wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an iron deficiency. Solution to fixing an Iron deficiency Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a Iron deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water can work well. Other supplements that have Iron in them are: Iron chelates, Ferric oxide, Ferrous oxide, Ferrous sulfate, all of these are fast absorption. Greensand, Cottonseed Meal is slow absorption, Garden Manure, which is medium absorption. Manure is most common organic iron source to use. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Picture 2-3 is a more severe case of iron def Sulfur (S) Micro Nutrient and an immobile element Sulfur plays an important role in root growth, chlorophyll supply and plant proteins. Just like iron, Sulfur moves slowly in the plant, hotter temps will make Sulfur harder to absorb like iron. But unlike iron, Sulfur is distributed evenly throughout the plant, mainly the big fan leaves. Sulphur is also a very important element in vegetative growth. First signs of a Sulfur deficiency are pale young leaves. The growth of leaves will remain slow, but the leaves can also get brittle and stay narrower than normal. Can also have small mutated leaves, along with the buds on top of flowering plants will die off. The growth if the plant can be stunted as well as yellowing of the younger leaves and new growth. Unlike a magnesium deficiency where it starts from the leaves tip and around, sulfur starts from the back of the leaves on forward to the middle of the leaves. The Stems become Hard, thin and may be woody. Some of the plants may show orange and red tints rather than yellowing. The stems will increase in length but not in diameter. Leaves will then be stiff and brittle like glass and fall off soon. Parts affected by a Sulfur deficiency are: The whole plant can be affected as well as young leaves, leaf veins. Too much Sulfur will cause your plants to be small along with the size of your leaves, along with your leaves being brown and dead looking at the tips. An excess of sulfur can also look like salt damage, restricted growth and dark color damage. Problems with Sulfur being locked out by PH troubles Soil Sulfur gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.5 Sulfur is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0- 9.5 (I wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Sulfur Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Sulfur gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5 Sulfur is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0- 9.5 (I wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Sulfur deficiency. Solution to fixing a Sulfur deficiency Mix 1-2 teaspoons of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves. Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Sulfur in them will fix a Sulfur deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other sulfur nutrient supplements are: Rain water, Ammonium Thiosulfate, which is all fast absorption. Garden Sulfur, Sulfate of Potash, Gypsum. Note: Caution when using gypsum to an already acid soil (pH that is less than 5.5) can have a very bad effect on different types of plants by affecting the absorption of soil aluminum, which is poison to plant roots. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Manganese (Mn) Micronutrient and Immobile Element Manganese Helps enzymes break down for chlorophyll and photosynthesis production, as well as it works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. Having plants that are deficient in manganese can turn the young leaves into spotted (mottled) yellow and or brown areas on young leaves. Dead (Necrotic) yellow spots form on top leaves, while the lower older leaves will or may have gray specks and or spots. Symptoms can include yellowing of leaves while the leaf veins can stay green. Can also produce a chequered effect. As the plant gets newer growths the plant will seem to grow away from the problem, that’s why the younger leaves may be unaffected. On the top of the leaves, brown spots can appear. While the severe areas of the leaves turn brown and wither. Parts Affected by a Manganese deficiency are: Young leaves. Too much Manganese in the soil will cause an iron deficiency. The blotchy leaf tissue is caused by not enough chlorophyll synthesis. Your plants will seem to have very weak vigor caused by the excessive amount of manganese. Problems with Manganese being locked out by PH troubles Soil ph of over 6.5, High iron soils, Low nitrogen Soils, Dry weather and compacted soil. Soil Manganese gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.0 Manganese is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.5-6.5 (I wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Manganese Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Manganese gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-4.5. Manganese is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-5.6 (I wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a manganese deficiency. Solution to fixing a Manganese deficiency Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn., or mix with water and water your plants with it. Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Manganese in them will fix a Manganese deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other nutrients that have Manganese in them are: Manganese chelate, Manganese carbonate, Manganese chloride, Manganese dioxide, Manganese oxide, Manganese sulfate, which are all fast absorption. Garden Manure, Greenssand are both good sources of manganese and are medium/ slow absorption. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Boron (Micronutrient and Immobile element Boron is important when dealing with maturation, pollen germination and seed production. As well as keeping calcium in soluble forms and keeping the stems, stalks, branches strong. Born keeps good color on the leaves and helps produce the plants structure. Boron also aids in cell division and protein formation. Boron deficiencies will show up first in younger leaves (they may turn yellow), then moves up the plant. Boron deficiency can resemble calcium deficiency. Stunting, discoloration, possible death of the growing tips, bud abortion and development. The Roots will show a stunted with swollen short secondary roots, leaves distorted, sometimes bronzed or scorched. Tip of the shoot dies; stems and petioles are brittle. Boron deficiency plants are easy to tell, because of the spotting the leaves show like a strawberry mark and or splashes of the marking. Boron-deficiency symptoms first appear at the growing points. They also can show signs of newer growths turning gray and or dying, bud deformed, curling of the leaves which are often spotted and discolored. Newer growths appear to look like they are burnt. They can show signs of hollow stems along with yellowish to brownish color leaves. Dead (Necrotic) spots develop between leaf veins, as well as the leaves becoming thick. The leaves will wilt with necrotic and chlorotic spotting. Boron is poorly absorbed with low potassium content. First signs of the deficiency are abnormal growth tips. Having not enough boron can also invite troubles for fungus problems from the internal tissues to rot away, as well as the root hairs along with them being discolored. To avoid having a Boron deficiency try to keep the ph below 7 and to improve the moisture as well as retaining light soils. Too much boron in your plants can produce a lot of problems. The leave tips turn yellow progressing inwards causing the plant to soon die slowly along with leaves dropping a lot. It can show same signs as if a magnesium deficiency, but only happens on newer growths. Parts affected by a boron deficiency are: Growing points and young leaves. Problems with Boron Being Locked out by PH troubles Soil ph under 5.5 or over 6.8, sandy soil, soil with low organic matter and or lack of nitrogen. Soil Boron gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.0 Boron is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (I wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Boron deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Boron gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.0 Boron is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-6.0 (I wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a boron deficiency. Solution to fixing a Boron deficiency One of the ways you can fix a boron deficiency is to either foliar spray or water regular. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other nutrients that have boron in them are: Borax, Boric Acid, Colemanite, Sodium pentaborate, Sodium tetraborate, which are ALL fast absorption. Garden Manure, Bone Meal are both good boron supplements, but are slow/medium absorption. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Copper (Cu) Copper plays a big role in producing healthy plants, stems, branches and new growths, as well as for the plants reproduction and maturity. It also assists in carbohydrate metabolism and oxygen reduction. Copper deficiency plants shows a lack of growth, growth tips die back, green leaves will show a bluish hue and plants may have a hard time showing maturity in vegging stages. Copper deficient plants causes irregular growth and wilting in the newer growths. The Leaves at top will wilt easily along with bleaching (chlorosis) and necrotic areas in the leaves. Leaves on the top of the plant may show veinal chlorosis.(bleaching of the veins) Growth and yield will be diminished along with spots on the leaves that are necrotic. To much copper in the system will cause the plant to die, as if it was a poison. Near death the plant will induce iron deficiencies and the root system will decay along with abnormal size of the roots, along with little side branching. Some new growths may not open up, along with becoming thin pale green to a bluish hue. Parts affected by copper deficiency are: new shoots, young leaves, and or the whole plant. Problems with Copper being Locked out by Ph Troubles High ph along with highly compacted soil that has a lack of nitrogen. Soil Copper gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 4.5 Copper is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.5 (I wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Copper deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Copper gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.5-9.0 Copper is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-6.0 (I wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a copper deficiency. Solution to fixing a Copper deficiency One way to treat a copper deficiency is by foliar feeding with Copper Sulphate, Cu sulfate, Cu chelates, and those 3 can also be used in soil. Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have copper in them will fix a copper deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other nutrients that have copper in them are: Granular, Garden Manure, Greensand. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Damaged leaves will NOT recover. Picture 1 is a copper deficiency, (it may look like a over fertilization ( nitrogen) but look at the bottom of the leaves, notice how they are yellow and a bit of white, also some of the fan leave tips are brown and dying off.) Molybdenum (Mo) Molybdenum has proteins that help the plant take nitrogen from the air. A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched look, along with weird or retarded leaf growth. Yellowing of middle leaves can occur as well as twisted younger leaves which will eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble a nitrogen deficiency. A Molybdenum deficiency shows older chlorotic leaves with rolled margins and stunted growth. Looks like a nitrogen deficiency but with the red tips moving inwards to the middle of the leaves. Molybendum deficiency will usually show up in the older to middle aged leaves, then it moves to the young leaves. Generally a molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient. Molybdenum toxicity doesn’t cause to many problems, but may cause problems when the human ingests it. Excessive molybdenum in cannabis will look like iron or copper deficiency. Parts affected are by the molybdenum deficiency are: Older leaves. Problems with Molybdenum being Locked out by Ph Troubles Soil ph that are under 5.5 Soil Molybdenum gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.5 Molybdenum is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 7.0-9.5 (I wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Molybdenum gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5. Molybdenum is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.0 (I wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency. Solution to fixing a Molybdenum deficiency One way to fix a Molybdenum deficiency is to foliar spray with Molybdenum, like Miracle Grow All Purpose plant food and Miracle Grow: Tomato Plant Food. These can also be used to mix in with water as well. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other nutrients that have Molybdenum in them are: I think Peters All Purpose Plant food does, as well as Greensand, Lime. Green sand and lime is slow/medium absorption, while Peters All Purpose Plant Food is fast absorption. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Picture 1 and 2 is a Molybdenum deficiency in late flowering Feel free to add more pics and info.

The premises of this is base on your honor. I trust all opportunities will transacted like awakened beings that understand the honor of being true to your word. As well as the personal resonsibility of the "At your own risk environment" Combining to create " Trust the honor of the community at your own risk" I believe we are awakened beings here so I don't forsee any challenges. Recycling equipment will be a way for newbies to get the equipment they need with out spending a grip to get as well as put use to equipment that would otherwise go on used.

When they come I be done, but, when they leave I be back again!!! Lets get it popin. Ok so its been a while, whats good to all my folks still here. Growing out the seeds from my breeding. SAtarting with the Gold/gum seeds. Gold gummale was grown last year. Didn't haveit in me to throw him away once i I dentified him as a male. I let him grow in a separate locatation then place a plastic bag over him once he was done, pot and all. I then brought him back about four months latere stillin the bag and shook him over my Bubble Gum, Rock Lock and Chem Valley Kush mothers. Results, Over 200 seeds. roughly about 80 (choice) seeds per mother. Starting this journal with the "goldum" seeds (Columbian gold/Bubble Gum). 07/01)2012 The seeds took about 73 hours to crack, 2 days to sprout and at three weeks were 12 inches tall. pictures will come when i get the rest ofmy equipment.

Mobile Elements Mobile Elements are mostly going to affect the older leaves first then work its way to other leaves and then the nutrients will be taken from old leaves to newer growths. Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants; this one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is. Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it can travel anywhere on the plant. Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then will usually happen to older leaves first. Then the deficiency will work its way up the plant. Your plant can be green on top, then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing. Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency. Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them. Parts affected by a nitrogen deficiency are: Older foliage, going to whole plant, Petioles (rare) cases. Veg Def Flwr Def If you have too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil the plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have “the claw” look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well. Problems with Nitrogen being locked out by PH troubles Water logged soil and Soil with low organic matter. Nitrogen is a very important element in the plant, all of them are but some are more important than others. For soil the best pH to have is 6.8. Why? Because at 6.8, that’s the best number for ALL available nutrients to be absorbed into the plant without any of them being locked out. For hydro and soil less mediums best pH to have is around 5.8. Try not to keep your plants to cold, because the cold temps will cause the nitrogen harder for the plant to be absorbed. PH levels for Nitrogen: Soil levels Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at pH levels of 4.0- 5.5. Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 6.0-8.0. (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a pH of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Nitrogen gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0. Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a pH of 5.5 to 8.0 (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def. Solution for Fixing a Nitrogen Deficiency Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor. A goof solid N-P-K ratio will fix any nitrogen deficiency. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Nitrogen in them will fix a nitrogen deficiency., Peters all purpose plant food 20-20-20 is good, Miracle grow All purpose plant food, Miracle grow Tomato plant food, (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) as well and blood meal! If you need to give your plants a quick solution to nitrogen and you want to use blood meal, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Other sources of nitrogen are dried blood, Cotton seed meal which is slow acting, Insect eating bat guano which is fast acting. Bone meal which is a gradual absorption when not made into a tea.( also excellent source of phosphorus). Fish Meal or Fish Emulsion is a good source of nitrogen and is medium acting. Worm castings, which is gradual absorption. Seabird guano, All purpose Millennia Seabird guano, Orginal Seabird guano All Purpose, Crabshell ,which is slow absorption. Fox Farm Grow Big, which is fast acting. (can bring down your pH as well) Here are a list of things that help fix a Nitrogen Deficiency: Chemical Nutrients Advanced nutrients Grow (2-1-6) Vita Grow (4-0-0), BC Grow(1.2-3.2-6.5) GH Flora Grow (2-1-6) GH Maxi grow (10-5-14) GH floraNova grow (7-4-10), Dyna gro Grow (7-9-5) Organic Nutrients Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Grow (3-1-3) Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Grow (1.5-.75-1.5) Earthjuice Grow (2-1-1), Pure Blend Pro (3-1.5-4) Bone Meal(0-10-0) Blood Meal(12-0-0) Fish Emulsion (5-1-1) Seabird Guano (11-13-3) Crab Shells(2.5-3.0-.5) Pure Blend Grow (0.4-.01-.5) Marine Cuisine (10-7-7) MaxiCrop Seaweed (1-0-3) Super Tea (5-5-1) Mexican Bat Guano (10-2-0) Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0) Kelp Meal (1-0-2) Seaweed Plus Iron Neptune's Harvest (2-4-0.5) Alaska Start-Up(2-1-2) Bio-Grow (1.8-0.1-6.6) Age old Grow (12-6-6) AGE Old Kelp (.30-.25-.15) Neptune's Harvest (2-4-1) Maxicrop Seweed(.1-0-1) METANATURALS Organic grow (3-3-3) METANATURALS Organic nitrogen (16-0-0) So adding anyone of these above should fix up your nitrogen deficiency! Nitrogen deficient plants usually recover in about a week, affected leaves will not recover. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss, Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your pH down, so if you add these please monitor your pH when using those. Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your pH go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your pH. Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings. Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus. When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes. So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants. Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, but the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. The side of the leaves has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a pH problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles. Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions, as well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium Picture 1 is a Phosphorus deficiency during vegetative growth. Picture 2 is what a phosphorus deficiency looks like in flowering. Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil. Soil Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at pH levels of 4.0-5.5 Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a pH of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 6.0-8.5. Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 4.0- 5.8. (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency. Solution for Fixing a Phosphorus Deficiency Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5. Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption, Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom, which is fast absorption. Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphorus Deficiency. Chemical Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4) Vita Bloom (0-7-5) BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7) GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4) GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14) GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7) Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6) Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4) Awsome Blossums Organic Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6) Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2) Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7) Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1) Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5) Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5) Buddswell (0-7-0) Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0) Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0) Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2) Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1) BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5) AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5) ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10) METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5) Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal. Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use two times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss, Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your pH down, so if you add these please monitor your pH when using those. Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your pH go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your pH. Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds. Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration. Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins. When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg, and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well. Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles Soils with excessive Leeching and High pH soils and or water.Soils that are potassium fixated. An excess of kitchen salts (sodium) in the root system/enviroment. Soil Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at pH levels of 4.0-5.5 Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 6.0-9.5. (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5. Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency. Solution for Fixing a Potassium Deficiency Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a potassium deficiency. Again Peters All Purpose plant food 20-20-20, will cure the potassium deficiency, Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Some other supplements of potassium are: Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption. (FFGB can bring your pH down as well) Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting. (Can bring down your pH as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient. Note: Wood Ashes, can make your pH go up a bit, so please monitor your pH when using it. Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not too much to where it will cause the plant to show toxicity. Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell. The green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but it can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues. Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water. One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a pH lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the pH being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf. Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus Soil Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at pH levels of 2.0-6.4 Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 6.5-9.1 . (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 2.0-5.7. Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 5.8-9.1 (I wouldn’t recommend having a pH over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency. Solution for Fixing a Magnesium Deficiency Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients). Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Picture one shows a mid grade magnesium deficiency. Information provided from; Marijuana Garden Saver: The Complete guide to Sick Plants, pH, and Pest troubles! Please feel free to add more pics and info.

Whats good, I will be germing 3 seedsfor this grow. The seeds are much smaller theni have seen before. Has anyone ever grow this strain before? Interesting crossback 25/75 indica/sativa landrace from colombia., giving as a result a mixture of pure lines come from santamarta zone.High, vigorous and branched, its smell is sweet and intense, stands out for its flavour and powerfull psicodelic. 3-19-2011

Short update CLGLD #1 is doing well I took a clone today will be sexxing it in a few. CLGLD #2 Wasn't doing to well in soil, well it was just growing much slower I have recently transplanted it it to the DWC and it's stating to take off. 4/14/2011 CLGD#1 CLGLDG 1 Clone CLGLD #2

Ph 5.86 rest temp 65 air temp 70 GH Grw and BLM DWC 4/3/2011 CLGLD #1 4/8/2011 clgld# soil 4/8/2011

I replaced disks in two units.

what's good good all, OK of the three seeds that cracked so far only two have sprouted. I seeing some sort disoloration on the leaves of clgld 1 have a look any help will be welcome. Also I had to stop using the fog. I noticed the transducer was bering corroded by the nut salt resulting in PH 1 to 2 point ph flux. 33111 CLGD#1 CLGD#3

Whats good all, Some Nubulizer challenges, I ve notice that after prolonged use the outer casing of the nebulizer starts to corrode from the nutrient salts the result of the corrosion is deminished fog and eventual shutdown also it raises the PH by 1 to 2 points i.e rcently changed by res started out with a ph of 5.78 after placing the nubulizer in for 3 minutes ph when up to 5.92. I noticed it was getting corroded and wondered if it would effect the Ph. Also the nubulizer produces a cold fog however the unit itself can generate a lot of heat if placed in a small container or if you useing more than one. I was using three single head fogers in a 30 liter res the temp got up to 75 degrees. This nebulizer has had 1500 hrs of use.

let me know how the clay works out for u.

Week 1 update Started with 3 seeds only 1 cracked started to germ two more seeds for fear of only having one plant. Since then two more have cracked s CLGLD #1 , placed in riock wool, has sprouted, and has a tap root coming out of the bottom of the cube. I have place the seeding ling in the fogponics chamber at the far end of the unit. this is where the fog is less dense and will alow for a good mix of air and nutrient fog and minimizing nutrient shock for CLGLD #1. CLGLD #2 and 3 have cracked but bhave not sprouted yet. Both 2 and 3 have been placed in dirt. CLGLD #2 Cracked 3/22/11 CLGLD # Cracked 3/25/11 Here is a shot of the dense fog zone. the system is a mix of DWC and Fog.

3/23/11 CLGLD #1

I got the seeds on the 24th. So far three have sprouted. GHSC White Rhino 3 seeds 1 sprout, feminized Cali Connection 2 seeds 1 sprout, regular DNA Rock Lock 1 seed 1 sprout, feminized

Thanks The CVK are doing really well in the new system the Wht rhno is doing ok I still haven't got the rhino number. I think the next rhino clones will be in soil.

first seed has cracked.... so it begins 3/20/2011

Thought I just continue this well the row above didn't turn out to well it was ok three plants 2.5 oz dry mostly rocklock. However I have since chnge my system to DWC and currently in the 5th week of flowering for my CVK and wht rhno clones. attempting to reg veg my rock lock . in this grow are some white rhino/ bubble gum, white rhino/hash plant, and white rhino/afagan breeding experiment. Thed breeding is in clay. Mind my DWC system isn't fancy or pretty 7 black buckets and seven colenders $14.00. CVK/wht rhn CVK breeding rck lck reveg

I have had good results using fog in veg. some challenges I faced was getting the fog evenly distributed, making sure the root zone was with in the fog zone. The vapor doesn't expand upward. Nebulizer malfunction if the happens it's a matter of hours before roots start drying. malfunction can be caused by a dirty disk. Life span of the nebulizer can vary I have three each came with extra replacement disks. during the first grow I replaced disks in all three and one malfunctioned. Each nebulizer had one head (vibrating disk) you can get them with up to 12 heads, however you will have to montior the nutrient solution as the head will heat up. Here is a link to the set up. http://www.420magazine.com/forums/abandoned-journals/116543-dhetep-fogponic-hydro-grow.html

your set up looks good question did the nebulizer come with a float. It's been by experience that when the nut levels gets about two or three inches above the nebulizer the fog is greatly reduce and will eventualy stopbeing produced also I found clones have trouble rooting if the denses part of the fog is more the 3 inches away. al that to say you should have a float to keep the nebulizer at the proper level in the nut also this will give you the ability to raise and lower the fog zone.

Whats good all, I have read the sticky and have confirmed all nutes, PH, EC, humidity and tempt are where they should be. I ham still having twisted leaves. I am using an ebb and flow system with GH nutes. Seeds were started in 1 inch rock wool cubes and placed in a 1/2 liter pot with hydrodon after 2 weeks. EC is 1 ph 5.85 try a lower ph out that didn't work well at all. res temp is 19 C average air temp is 73 lights on 60 lights of. Currently using a 400wt hps was useing 6 40 flo tubes I switch to increase the air temp with out having to put in a heater. also one of the seedlings has some spots Pics are below.

Last night while I was in my flower room the lights went of an hour early.. I went to check the timer and notice that some of the time slots that are pressed down to set the time for light s to come on had poped up stagered allowing the light to go off when it what suposed to on and on at times when it was suposed to be off. I reset the timer thinking that I might have a rodent problem or something. Today I went to check the timer and noticed the same thing and when I attempted to reset some of the time slots popped back up. I have had this timer for about a year. got a digital timer today.

Thanks anguscr I have change the flood cycle to once every two days and that seems to have made the difference. It's strange that this is happening as I've had no problems in the past and the cycle was flooding twice to three times a day I did cut back to twice a day as John suggested in my previous grow. however it was only one plant that showed these types of symptoms then, Anyway i think I'm going to change to a drip too.

During the first pictures I was hand watering once a day that seemed to solve the problem for the rock lock and CVK but the WR remained the same I and still hand watering once a day all but the WR have rcovered and are shooting up.