Try these web sites for info on chemicals. Sodium thiosulfate is not a problem to have shipped anywhere. the silver nitrate has a DEA form to order but it can be made from scratch. Try not to poison yourself with the fumes. Good luck everyone, A.O.

SODIUM THIOSULFATE, ANHYDROUS http://stores.photoformulary.com/Categories.bok

Check this out.

My sister does photography and develops her own film. I asked her (on the sly as she doesn't smoke) about those chemicals and she says it is no problem to get these small amounts of silver nitrate and sodium thiosulfate at photo stores in the US. I have not tried to get any but think I will give it a try soon. Thanks for the info I go to roll it up on occasion and I will look at what is going on. Thanks A.O.

This is the only way I know to create feminized seeds. Not sure how Collodial Silver works for feminizing seeds but am interested if it works? I found this, not sure where but it is from "Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke. How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution permalink The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.This process can be used to: A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them. It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference. "Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke (unfortunately missing the appendices) It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient. Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide. Preparation of STS: First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form. Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling. Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve. The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution ( while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS). This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants. Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap. Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals. Application: The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers. After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes. So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature. A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy. Effects: Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male. It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first. When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary. When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate. A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet. Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes. This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources. If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle. Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique. Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks. About the chemicals: Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule. Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed. Silver Nitrate info: ICSC:NENG1116 International Chemical Safety Cards (WHO/IPCS/ILO) | CDC/NIOSH http://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/...%20solution.pdf For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer: Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous. Sodium Thiosulfate info: http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s...hiosulfate.html http://www.med-chem.com/MSDS/Sodium_Thiosulf.htm ------------------ Where to get the chemicals: Photographic chemicals, photo chemistry, photo processing equipment, photo chemicals silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10 http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=27&langID=0 sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95 http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=28&langID=0 Postage runs around $4. Fast service. Can be shipped to Canada. Have fun experimenting with this technique. Use it responsibly. There are a few good threads here at CW that go into the pros and cons of transsexual agents and feminized seeds. Read them. And most importantly, use STS with quality F1 strains developed by professional breeders for the most consistent results. A huge thanks to Fet from Spice Brothers Seeds for his help and advice in using this technique. I simply brought together available information from previous posts and tried my own recipe. I'm thrilled to share the results. Future tests will be done to adjust the formula so the molar ratios of the chemicals are correct, as specified by Gobgoober (thanks, Gob) but the formula posted here is completely effective.

I understand completely, I was rear ended by a car @ 60mph and I was sitting still which gave me 6 protruding disc L-3,4,5 and C-4,5,6.(1991) In 2006 I was rear ended by a Big Rig Diesel carrying a set of doubles fully loaded (80,000 lbs+). In 2008 they did a fusion in my neck. I have constant pain. I have a strain called Medijuana or Medicanna. It is supposed to be one of the best strains for pain, THC >25% and CBD's over 2.0. I have not tried it yet but I am getting ready to flower them. I use the weed to cut down on my pain pill consumption. From what I have read the higher the CBD, the greater the narcotic pain relief effect. It seems that the CBD's are produced at the very end of the flowering cycle. I have read that the THC has to start to break down to create the CBD's. I am not an expert, if anyone knows about this please correct me as I am trying to learn. I will let you know how it goes with the plants I have in about 9 weeks.(flowering period)

Here is a place I found. They are going out of business this year. I think they may have what you are looking for. http://brazilianseedcompany.webs.com/

I have never heard of doing it this way. I thought you had to wait until the leaves drop and it creates the seed pods. Once the seed pods develop they have a dark ring around the bottom portion of the pod when it turns black the poppy is ready to milk. You then make a 1/8th of an inch deep slice on the pod and wait 4 to six hours and scrape the opium latex off of the pod and save it. This is pure opium latex and this process can be done over and over through out the life of the plant. It is best if you do not water it before you score it as this will dilute the product. This is how the poppy fields are tended around the world. The latex is collected and from that it can be further broken down to refined opium, heroine, and morphine. I had never heard of cooking the whole plant. Interesting! Agent Orange

Thank you romeu9 I really appreciate the input.

Thanks, I am using the root riot by clonex for the clones. Can I leave them in the trays for 2 weeks without killing them? The trays have 50 spots for clones, on each tray, with a plastic dome about 8 inches high. Should I keep the humidity high for the clones? I have not done this before and I killed some seedlings by keeping them to wet. I think they did not get enough oxygen. Also, do I keep the clones in the light from the LED's or do they need dark for a day or two? I really appreciate your help.

Thank you Markus. That is exactly what i am gong to do. I will take some clones tonight and get started. You think I should wait 2 weeks before I start to flower the ones I don't want to keep as mother plants?

All 18 - 4 Gallon Buckets DJ Short Blueberry DJ Short Vanilluna Hawiian Queen-AMS Medicanna-AMS These were grown with LED lighting so far. I have a 10' X 16' room. I have 2-288X3watt LED's (864watts each)shown in Pic. I want to clone these 18 plants and put 50 to 60 buckets in this room. Total I have 2-864watts(3 watt diodes) LED's, 4 360 watt LED's(3 watt diodes), 4-90 watt UFO's(1 watt diodes) and 2 cool tubes-30 inch w/2-1000 watt MH or HPS in each (4000 watts total) the 10' X 16' room for flowering and a 10' x 10' room for veg. I am using all FOX FARM Nutrients and basically following there feeding chart from their website. The brown leaves at the bottom got hot fertilizer on them and burnt them a little.

I just wanted to say hello from Southern California. I am new to this forum. Look forward to joining in. Agent Orange