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Everything posted by ShaggyGrower
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Day 13 of seedling stage for DD & Nebula. Perhaps those two are now in veg - not too sure of the cutover from seedling to veg. 125w CFL still on 24hrs per day. Growth is motored along last (human-) night. Topped DD and Nebula (NVclosetmedgrower topped around this growth point). They're left with their cotyledons, their first single-fingered set of leaves, their first three-fingered set of leaves; their first two sets of five-fingered (perhaps the second is a seven-fingered) leaves.
- 198 replies
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Day 61 of flowering. More leaves are turning yellow. White pistels still appearing. No amber trichomes. Buds getting thicker. Smell getting a little stronger. Canopy temp between 74-85 lights on and 66-78 lights off. Humidity between 24% and 37% Still not rained much here so I've been collecting the humidifier-out water (EC 0.015; 30 ppm) and mixed with the rain water available giving 11l of EC 0.126; 63 ppm 0.070. ph starting was 7.14. Added 11 x 1ml Sumo Boost: ph went to 7.0; EC 0.144; 72 ppm (pyi, says elements: Phosphorous 9; Potassium 18) Added 11 x 4ml Dragon Force: ph went to 5.91; EC 1.530; ppm 765 (fyi, says elements: Phosphorous 9.5; Potassium 6.9; Magnesium 2.6; Sulphur 2.5) Added 1 x heaped teaspoon of molasses: ph went to 5.89; EC 1.60; ppm 800. Added liquid in stages: 4l slowly then left for an hour so plants could suck it up. Another 3 litres slowly. Plant/soil still soaking it up (no run-off). Waited another hour then added the final 4l. Only got 250ml of run off from the total 11l. ph out was 7.29 (stubbornly high); ec 2.618 (very concentrated although expected for such a small runoff) with 1309ppm. Seems a build-up in the soil (probably still a hangover from using Miracle Gro) so I waited 3 hours for the plants to take their fill of watery nutrients, then flushed with 2 x 11l tap water (best I had available) with ph in of 6.0 and EC 0.307 and 614ppm. Ph out is unknown as I dropped my ph pen in water and might have broken it (it's drying out) and ec 0.472 - 944ppm. Hopefully in the photo you can see their pot on stilts in the saucer - aids run-off and makes sure lower roots do not soak in water - also aids oxygen intake.
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Day 12 of seedling phase. Everything is good in the garden. DD and Nebula are making their 4th real set of leaves. JW growing second real set. IC and SS still trying to create first real set of leaves. Very, VERY tight nodes atm on all plants. I've started DD & Nebula on the Shogun feed cycle, so top-watering water (as well as very low ec 0.030 foliar spray with nothing in it) contains 5ml/l Katana Roots and 2ml/l Samurai Terra Grow. I've stood the propagation tent on end so it's now 90cm high by 60cm x 60cm, and also put a bodged reflector (cardboard & white printer paper) just above the CFL at about 45cm to reflect light back down quicker (rather than travelling up to 90cm - CFL's lose a lot of power with distance). Light cycle still on 24hrs a day with a 125w CFL 3 inches from canopy (~170k lumens).
- 198 replies
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- dutch dragon
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Fungus gnats like humidity, so a nice moist top 1-2 inches of soil in a pot is perfect for them. Perhaps try bottom-watering your plants for a couple of weeks? That could dry out the top 1-2 inches of soil halting the fungus gnats. Additionally, they allegedly like yellow, so some yellow traps (sticky tape with some yellow in the middle sticky side up in your posts? https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/fungus-gnat-control/
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Some leaves now starting to turn yellow on one plant, most of them yellowing on one side first. Nitrogen deficiency perhaps. I think it's a good sign at this during-flushing stage and means plant is cannibalising it's own nutrients. Buds growing in thickness and length and new white pistels appearing. Seems there are multiple flushes of pistels. They were very dry and a wilting last night, so gave them a feed of 4ml Shogun Dragon Force + 1ml Sh' Sumo Boost x 11l. ph'd in at 5.6 (out was 6.8) tap water (, still not rained to collect RO water) has 320ppm (ec 0.640) and with those nutrients added ec in was 1.80 - high I think. 1l run off. Light is now 10.5/13.5.
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Day 10 of seedling stage for (back left and right) DD and Nebula and they're looking very nice. JW (middle right) doing well as well and SS fledged last night (small pot). IC struggling, but growing very, very slowly. I think the tap root nearly died and so she's been fighting to grow more new root and she's winning against Death. They're under a single 125w blue CFL 24 hours a day atm. Foliar spray is EC 0.062 / 31ppm water. I've given them a little root solution (Shogun Katana Roots). Stated flowering time is: Dutch Dragon: 63-70 days Nebula: 60-65 days Ice Cream: 55-60 days Jacky White: 60 days Sensi Star: 56-63 days Hopefully they will grow together and get along
- 198 replies
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Growing, at different rates which is nice. Added some virtually (light brown) dry medium to support ~1 inch of stem . SS (Sensi Star) has been put in a small pot with the medium including perlite. 10ml of water added, total weight of pot 83.35g. Gave DD & Nebula a mini leaf jet wash with a small syringe of pure water to wash those foliar spray residue marks off.
- 198 replies
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A trichome shot from today of one of the outer (node 5 from the bottom) colas.
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They're alive! DD (Dutch Dragon) and Nebula are doing well at the back, and after some surgery last night removing shell casings, IC (Ice Cream - bottom left ) and JW (Jacky White - bottom right) look like they're going to make it as well, Sensi Star still in soggy tissue awaiting germination and from there I'll be trying Root!t rooting sponges.
- 198 replies
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- 198 replies
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btw, here are two photo's I found when they started flowering. The very green one was taken outside on September 8th, the darker one was taken just after they had been moved indoors, on 15th September. So perhaps flowering period started 1st September.
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Hi Jose.gh, Thanks. I'll look into more ways (such as dry) ways of making hash to see which one I fancy. An update on these plants. Trichrome are still clear, so 2/3-4 weeks to go I think/hope. Today was watering day. Unfortunately a neighbour left the tap open on my Run-Off collection barrel and there was none left, so I had to use tap water Pot was quite light so they defo needed some liquid. I decided to give a little feed first (a quarter feed of ) Shogun Sumo Boost and Shogun Dragon Force, and then flush thoroughly. The pot holds ~9 litres of water before Run-Off occurs. I put ~ 60 litres of ph'd down (from initial 7.60) tap water through (10 litres of ph ~5.55; EC 0.702/351 ppm first with small feed, 5 x 10 litres for subsequent flushing's ph ~ 5.4 EC 0.370/181 ppm). Out values were: ph in 5.56 - ph out 6.60; EC in 0.702 - EC out 1.440; ppm in 351 - ppm out 722 ph in 5.56 - ph out 6.95; EC in 0.370 - EC out 1.554; ppm in 181 - ppm out 773 ph in 5.45 - ph out 7.05; EC in 0.370 - EC out 1.260; ppm in 188 - ppm out 627 ph in 5.57 - ph out 6.98; EC in 0.374 - EC out 0.862; ppm in 183 - ppm out 432 ph in 5.44 - ph out 7.22; EC in 0.352 - EC out 0.750; ppm in 178 - ppm out 376 ph in 5.37 - ph out 7.06; EC in 0.362 - EC out 0.660; ppm in 181 - ppm out 330 As you can see, no matter what I do with ph going in, it comes out around neutral (~7.0). Looks like I managed to flush out a lot of hanging-on nutrients though. I'd rather have used my Run Off water as that has a ppm of ~60, so compared to my tap water of ~ 180, there is 120 more ppm for my nutrients rather than water suppliers nutrients. Anyone any ideas why ph in the run-off remains stubbornly high? Temperature stayed ~ 75°F in canopy and 71°F in middle of plant throughout (usually ~75°F-82°F lights on; 68°F-72°F lights off) , Humidity rose to ~60% (lots of air movement though) - it's ~36%-50% lights on. HPS set on 600w (could go to 660w, 400w or 250w) giving about 200k lumens. Which is the best for late flowering wattage wise and canopy temperature wise?
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Hi Jose.gh, Thanks. These will be the first plants I've ever grown, never mind made hash out of. I've been a-Googling how to make hash, and watching the Strain Hunter videos. What method would you suggest I use to make hash out of the leaves. I've seen several, and one putting the leaves through various bag filters (with ice and water) looks the easiest (Filtration Bags: purple 25 micron , white 45 micron, yellow 73 micron, black 90 micron, orange 120 micron, red 160 micron, green 190 micron, blue 220micron).
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Frostiness. Photo taken shining a diving torch at it as well as the HPS lights on. Makes photo's look more blue and sparkling
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Thanks Cannabissapean. I was beginning to suspect that the bat mix (40% Coco, 60% peat, with added bat poop) was too strong a mix to put germinated seeds straight into. Thanks for the confirmation. Initially, I had thoroughly soaked the medium then put the germinated seeds into it (half an inch deep) thinking this would be good, but alas not. I dug into the ones I expected to have died and found the medium was quite compacted due to excessive moisture as you suspected IC and JW went into the somewhat dried out old DK & WB pots, after fluffing/breaking up the medium and adding some dry medium. I've just dug IC and JW up. IC was not looking happy so have transferred back into soggy tissue to try to revive. JW had grown a longer tap root that also did not look too happy. I've replanted JW with the seed head at the surface so she gets a little light and might be able to perk up/shed her shell case and get those cotyledons working . If these two die, I shall germinate two more seeds and plant them in a medium you suggest (smaller pots and seedling soil). I'm pretty sad I'm a cannabis seed murderer atm
- 198 replies
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- dutch dragon
- nebula
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My fans are quite loud as well LedCherryBerry, although I've fortunate to have my grow in the spare bedroom so I don't hear it. So unfortunately I can't recommend a quiet fan. Was away all day yesterday and came back lunch time today and the tissue had dried out with IC seed in it. I think I can see a little crack & tail so have re-moistened the tissue and put the now-sunk JW seed in there as well to germinate. I have been error-prone through germination with these DD & Nebula doing fine. DD is 6.5cm and Nebula 3.5cm and starting to show their first true leaves (not the 1st cotyledons nor the 2nd single leave but a third set).
- 198 replies
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Trichomes don't look there yet (still clear), so as they looked dry (soil coming away from side of pot and quite a light pot). I've given them perhaps they're last major feed: Run-Off Water in: ph 7.88; EC 0.126; ppm 63 1ml x 10 Shogun HydroBlook: after ph 6.95; EC 0.652; ppm 326 2ml x 10 Shogun Sumo Boost: after ph 6.94; EC 0.694; ppm 347 1ml x 10 Shogun PK Warrior: after ph 7.06; EC 1.088;ppm 544 0.25ml x 10 CalMag: after ph 7.03; EC 1.202; ppm 601 Ph down added to get: ph 5.76; EC 1.13; ppm 565 700ml of Run-Off from the 10l put in: ph 7.11; EC 1.782; ppm 854 Growing medium (composting soil and Miracle Gro - yeah, I knew no better back then) must still be alkaline to get 7.11 out for a 5.76 in. Next watering I'll just give 2ml x 10 Shogun Sumo Boost and 4ml x 10 Shogun Dragon Force in RunOff water.
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Thanks. Yup I think it's too wet as well. I will do better when IC & JW are planted after they germinate. I've a small fan for the small tent on order. Every day is like Christmas morning with these guys!
- 198 replies
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RIP DK. WB also not sprouting through soil yet. While there is still some hope for WB, I'm soaking a Jacky White (JW) seed to replace the WB to go with the IC that's replacing the DK. I'd like four plants in total. DD & Nebula doing fine. To recap, I hope now to have: Dutch Dragon - 75% Sativa; Nebula - 60% Sativa; Ice Cream - 60% Indica; and Jacky White - 75% Sativa.
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Thanks for the comments Jose.gh and g22. I think they're getting there (see photo's), although not sure how many weeks to go and I'm wondering when to start the two-weeks-prior-to-harvest flushing/nutrient change.
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Thanks LedCherryBerry (long posts are fine by me). DK's still in intensive care. WB (White Berry) maybe making a breakout (of soil), although I could just be seeing a spec of what I want to see. The IC (Ice Cream) seed is now not floating, so I've transferred to moist tissue to germinate. Hopefully they'll catch up to DD and Nebula (5cm & 3 cm respectively). Thanks for the info on topping. I've got time yet. The seedlings are under a blue 125w CFL. When they're done seedlinging, they'll go in the big tent with the HPS (250w/400w/600w/660w settings) and I'll move the CFL in there with them also (250w HPS & 125w CFL - HPS set low for the first 1-2 weeks in veg). Hopefully that'll keep the intermodal length shorter.
- 198 replies
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DD (Dutch Dragon) and Nebula are doing well, with DD now taller (5cm) than Nebula (3cm). No sight of Dutch Kush or White Berry breaking soil yet. White Berry had only just cracked it's shell case when I planted it, although Dutch Kush (DK) had a nice a tap root (1.5cm), as the happy/long as DD & Nebula had when planted. I decided to have a look at DK and found it's tap root had shrivelled up I've popped an Ice Cream (IC) in some water to germinate to take over from DK if it (and I suspect it will) die. Fingers crossed for White Berry, and DK . Regarding topping at what node LedCherryBerry, I was thinking of topping like you, after node three as I'd like to keep them short; not run out of space this time; and attempt Sea Of Green. I think I have about 1.4m of grow room in my 2m tent (minus final pot height and light dangling space). Spec says Dutch Dragon (1.3m); Dutch Kush (1.2m); Ice Cream (1.1m); Nebula (1.2m); and White Berry (1.0m) so they're within that range, but I want some wiggle room just in case my method induces extra stretching. Regarding the grow tents - I bought them unassembled and assembled them (Growell). In fact, I've got much of my gear from Growell with the rest from Amazon and seeds from Paradise Seeds.
- 198 replies
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I'll be Topping, LST-ing, and Lollypopping to attempt a Screen Of Green (~9 x 4 main colas). This is just the 60cm x 90cm x 60cm seedling tent. The 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.0m is occupied by those you've seen on the other thread. Their growing medium is still on its first soak from when I planted the germinated seeds. I've only added a splash of Shogun Katana Roots since (once). Thanks for the tips. What humidity should I be aiming for in the seedlings micro-microclimate (under the plastic bottle)?
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Cheers LedCherryBerry! Yup, they're looking good. More by luck than judgement I have to say. There are two plants (well, three, but one is a single stemmed dwarf) that are lst'd over. Their top colas are tipped over 45 degrees (!) and have since trained themselves upwards and have now stopped growing (phew!). There's not much more tilting/moving I can do, so hopefully they'll be ok. I'm a fiddler so check on them quite a lot when at home making sure they don't get too high a leaf temperature on top (using infrared thermometer). Infrared thermometer usually reads about 5°F more than the white plastic thermometer/humidity detector, so max ~ 83°F with infrared. I think there are two different strains as well as Plant1 has darker and slightly thicker leaves than Plant2. I'll add more regarding these plants on this thread. I've started a proper grow thread in the correct place for the four plants I've just recently stated and which I'll be trying to grow by-the-book. Kind regards, ShaggyGrower
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Hi LedCherryBerry, I've just started a grow thread you can follow . Good luck with fucking those bugs! I think your plants look good, so what you're doing must be working. Stay safe.
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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.
Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.
