Whats up Strain Hunters & Greenhouse growers First journal here and start with 4 Big Bang Auto and 3 auto mazar, that i left in germination abit to long. So i potted them up asap and under lights so fingers crossed they all pop up Im curently cleaning and orginizing the grow room, so things are more efficient and tidy. Some pics soon on everything when they pop up peace

Caboose by Strain Hunters Seed Bank grown under SUPERGROWLED.COM Lights. Very impressed with the results achieved with these new led lights. ONE X Spectrum King™ (SK450) will replace a 500W HID. While TWO X Spectrum Kings™ will replace your 1000W HID unit. Both systems will increase yields by 25% or more, save 50% on electricity, save space and heavily reduce ventilation. 250W true power from ONE Spectrum King™ which replaces 500W HPS. Qty. LED HID equiv. Flower Pro. Yield 1 250W 500W 16 sq ft 300g 2 500W 1000W 16 sq ft 600g 3 750W 1,500W 24 sq ft 900g 4 1000W 2000W 32 sq ft 1200g 3W LEDs x 150 = 450 Watt full capacity driven at 55.5% = 250W true power per unit 6th generation Spectrum II™ LEDs using 100 X ‘white LEDs’, individual ‘white’ LEDs are a mix of the primary colors red, green blue (RGB) to supply you with high end color rendering and our full spectrum. These 100 X ‘white’ LEDs are expensive to produce and the absolute best on the market. The remaining 50 X LEDs are a mixture of ‘reds’ to turbo charge the flowering for maximum yields and far-red output to enable strict photoperiod control. TRUE full spectrum – 420 to 750 nanometres with supplemental chlorophyll (A+ absorption peaks We use primarily Bridgelux and Epistar chips on our own custom dies The phosphor coat used on the very high power 425nm blue base LED is our own proprietary formula, used to give us the strong full spectrum coverage we employ in our luminaires Rugged industrial construction with anodized aluminium chassis Fan-less thermal management, no fans due to high quality heat sinks, thermal bond and highest quality metal clad printed circuit boards (MCPCB) No heat increase 12″ from source reduces HVAC requirements 16 sq ft coverage for flowering stage 30 sq ft coverage for vegetative stages 90° beam angle PMMS lenses for greater photon delivery Peak photon delivery in μmol, 1000μmol @ 12” No bulbs or ballasts to replace Lifespan of 12+ years or 60,000 hours Weight ~23lbs, with hangars Yo-Yo hangers included with every order Dimensions approximately 22” x 14” x 7” Input voltage: 85-265VAC, 50/60Hz Power consumption: 250W / 120VAC@2.1A Self-protecting constant current power supply 5 year warranty from manufacturers defect. As a special bonus, www.supergrowled.com is also giving all Green House customers a 5% discount on purchases made in their website. Just add the following promo code on checkout: ghcomp

hey everyone, ive read alot about l.e.d grow lights and peoples l.e.d setups and just wondered what the best manufacturer was. you see alot of them cheap pannels on sale and i would never buy them id rather buy into something good as im interested in doing a little closet l.e.d grow for fun as i have the space. thanks in advance guys

Aloha Lams, Do you use leds for propagation lighting when doing your cuttings? Here in Hawaii the cost for electricity is the highest in the USA and I was thinking about reducing cost and better light balance.

Enough talk of a journal, time to start one!! Here are the basic plans, some pictures, as well as my journal chronicling what has been happening over the past 9 days. Tonight they are being moved into their new bigger 23 L homes and I will have an updated post with pictures of the procedure soon. I wish everyone in the cup the best of luck and hope that I can provide both an informative and entertaining journal for all to read/view, and once again showcase the awesomeness of the Greenhouse Powderfeed! Peace GHSC Autoflower Cup Grow – 4 Strains – 6 plants Seeds: 2 x Super Critical Auto 2 x Sweet Mango Auto 1 x Northern Lights Auto 27/05/2013 - ** One NLA did not sprout so I am going to germinate 1 Big Bang Auto tonight. 1 x Big Bang Auto Growing media: Jiffy™ Peat starter pots – will transplant to 23 L pots once rooted in Jiffy’s 23 L pots - Pro Mix™ High Porosity/Grodan™ Growchunks/Hydrotron™ clay pellets @ approx. 40/40/20 mix Lighting: 18 hours on and 6 hours off entire grow Seedlings : 2 x Sunblaster™ T5 fluorescent - hung vertically on each side of the LED and angled towards the seedlings 1 x Sunshine Systems LED ** Lights will be kept a fair distance away as I am going for a mixed spectrum here not a ton of intensity Vegetation: 4 x 28W Sunshine Systems™ LED’s Flower: The 600W Hortilux Super HPS bulb w/cool tube reflector will be added once they are getting closer to flowering + 4 x LED’s Ventilation: Intake – (will be added once they are in the 23 L pots) via a 4 inch (10 cm), 176 cfm (300 M3/hr) Typhoon™ inline fan with a Mountain Air carbon filter attached on the intake end to provide some protection against fungi or bacteria etc. from entering the tent. This is new as so far I have relied only on passive intake, but I believe this could definitely improve yield. Extraction – via a 6 inch (15 cm), 280 cfm (475 M3/hr) CK™ inline fan with Mountain Air filter Water, Nutrients & Additives: Seedling transplant: All plants will receive Botanicare™ ZHO (Rhizosphere root inoculant w/trichoderma & mychorrizae) at transplant to 23 L pots Water & Nutrients: All plants will receive R/O (reverse osmosis) water + Botanicare™ Cal-Mag Plus and GHSC™ Mother’s Powderfeed once they are rooted and into 23 L pots until signs of flowering at which point they will be switched to the GHSC Hybrid Powderfeed. Unfortunately I don’t having any Indica powderfeed (other than 2 x 20 g sample packs that I will try out) which is recommended for autos but I was happy with the results once I started using the Hybrid feed last auto grow and hopefully using the Powderfeed from start to finish this time will only improve things. Additives will be used but not 100% sure which ones yet. And again, I will also use ZEO2™ CO2 producing pads for now, but am looking into other CO2 producing sources/methods for small spaces and this may change during the grow. 19/05/13 GERMINATION: Soaked seeds at 7:11 pm 19/05/13 in mineral water EC of 0.66, pH 6.8, temp @ 19 degrees to start, temperature should rise a few degrees. Glasses were placed in a box sealed from light and on top of the fridge where it will stay consistently warm. **EDIT** Having done more research, and having done this with the last Big Bang seed, I will in the future germinate with r/o water + tiny bit of Cal - Mag with EC no higher than 0.15, & pH @ 5.5. I was lazy and didn't pH and should have, and mineral water or not 0.66 is waay too high to germinate seeds considering they have all that they need in the seed to germinate. 20/05/2013 PLANTING: I opened the box 18 hrs later to find some seeds split their shell and others hadn’t. What is disturbing is that the water in each glass had a film on top of it L I used spring water that I’d opened a few months ago and sealed again, but with nothing persistent in the water to disinfect it (like chlorine in drinking water) something must have grown in it. I really should have known better with what I’ve learned in my water course in school and should have used fresh unopened spring water. I am hoping for the best but I fear the worst and I may need to purchase new seeds this coming weekend when I go to the Treating Yourself Expo in Toronto and start over if they don’t sprout into healthy little seedlings. Currently using one LED panel 18 inches directly above jiffys to germinate – with 2 x T5 Sunblaster fluorescents hanging vertically and angled towards the jiffy’s waiting to add mixed spectrum once they sprout and are a few days old. Once they are moved into their 23L homes I will have all 4 LED’s running until they are strong enough to add the 600W HPS Lights on 18 hrs: Room temp = 25 - 26°C rH = 55 % LED Light Height – 45 cm’s (18 inches) T5 = 23 cm’s (9 inches) from seedlings on the end Lights off 6 hrs: Room temp = 21°C rH = 65 % 21/05/13 No change 22/05/13 Today I added a heated seedling mat (* a new one, the old one would burn em up if not careful) to speed up the process a little I can see one SMA baby making her way up so far – I planted them a little deeper this time to help give them enough distance/friction to shed the seed and keeping them nice and moist while doing so. Having to spray and pry them off works but not always and having them worked off naturally is much preferred. @ 8:30 - one of each auto is showing signs of sprouting Lights on 18 hrs: Room temp = 23 °C Temp at base of jiffy pellets = 27 – 28 °C rH in room = 60 % average 23/05/13 @ 6 pm- approximately 77 hours after planting Sweet Mango Auto’s – both have split their shell and the bent stems are surfaced with cotyledons on their way up Super Critical Auto’s – Both have sprouted fully and look healthy Northern Lights Auto – one baby sprouted fully with healthy cotyledons, but 1st true leaves tips are looking white, I will keep an eye on her. The 2nd hasn’t shown signs of much yet so we will see. Watered - mixed new water: reverse osmosis w/small amount of Cal-Mag Plus EC = 0.4 pH = 5.5 Temp = 21 °C @ 8 pm - Now that almost all have sprouted and most have visible taproots I turned off heated mat, and turned on small ceramic oscillating heater to maintain proper temperature air temperature around 25 – 27. I want to get them into their new 23 L homes a lot quicker than the last autos and plan on transplanting them on Sunday or Monday most likely (in 3 – 4 days). Also started using the large humidifier to maintain target rH – around 65 – 70% for my set-up at this stage. Lights on 18 hrs: Room temp = 25 - 26 °C rH in room = 60 – 68 % 24/05/13 Status: Sweet Mango Auto’s – Both sprouted fully and with the exception of the very tips of the 1st true leaves looking a little white they look healthy. Super Critical Auto’s – Continue to grow 1st leaves and taller Northern Lights Auto – Still only the 1 baby sprouted outta 2, positive news is 1st true leaves looking more green and less brown and growing quickly. ** Going to buy a 5 pack of GHSC auto seeds this weekend, just not sure which ones yet, and may have 4 autoflower strains in the tent this time – maybe Big Bang? After time spent thinking about the cause of white tips on the first true leaves of some plants I considered that it is very unlikely that the autoflower seed-stock, especially of the new strains, would be very old and soaking them could create excess moisture causing the issue? Just a thought and maybe I’m wrong and it probably has to do with whatever was in the germination water – I’m sure these strong plants will fight anything nasty, crossing my fingers. LED Light Height = 40 cm’s (16 inches) Lights on 18 hrs: Room temp = 26 - 27 °C rH in room = 65-70 % Lights off 6 hrs: Room temp = 21°C rH = 65 – 70 % 27/05/13 – 4 days since sprouting Growth has been moving along nicely for the 5 babies. Second true leaves are already visible and the initial issues with white tips on some are already becoming a thing of the past. Taproots are visible as well as multiple feeder roots, especially on the Super Criticals. I’m going to wash up the 23 L pots tonight and transplant them in the next couple of days so as not to slow the rapid growth down. Tonight I’m also going to soak a Big Bang auto seed to take the place of the NLA seed that didn’t germinate, it’s my first try at growing 4 different strains together, and my first try at growing the Big Bang Auto last Auto grow I did 8 plants and 3 strains. Mixed new water: Reverse Osmosis (r/o) water +Cal Mag Plus to 0.4 EC + GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed to 0.6 EC total. pH = 5.6 Temp = 22 °C @ 10:45 pm – soaked a Big Bang Auto seed in r/o water + a few drops of Cal – Mag Plus = 0.20 EC & temperature @ 21 ° C. Placed in a light proof box in the grow room where it is about 25 – 26 °C LED Light Height = 35 cm’s (14 inches) T5 – 23 cm’s (9 inches) Lights on 18 hrs: Room temp = 25-27 °C rH in room = 65-75 % Lights off 6 hrs: Room temp = 22 °C rH = 70– 78 % 28/05/13 Planted a Big Bang auto seed after soaking it for 18 hrs in r/o water + Cal Mag Plus @ 0.30 EC & pH @ 6.0. Trying out a clear glass over top of the Jiffy to help improve rH and maintain a higher humidity around it until it sprouts. There are a number of gaps between the glass and the seedling tray which will allow some air exchange Noticed a few small orange/brown spots on the one Super C. auto and the Northern Lights auto. I don’t think it is anything serious and growth continues nicely. I am going to consider transplanting them tomorrow.

Hello everyone! This is my first grow journal. For various reasons I'm starting it a little late (2 weeks in flowering), but hey, it's better late than never. This is my first grow using COCO as a substrate, so I was bound to make some mistakes. There were some PH fluctuations in the vegetative stage due to uncalibrated PH meter, but everything seems far gone now . This is also the first time I am using Greenhouse Powder Feeding (I got the idea off a friend, whos plants were looking very healthy). I had a plan in my mind for some reason that I would use the Mother Plants one in veg and then switch to Hybrids, as my strains are mostly hybrids. The strange thing that I encountered is that , using the mother plants feed, the girls were kinda slowing down on growing at the end of the second month and just making their stems at the bottom more wide ... or I was hallusinating maybe. However when I switched to the Hybrids feed and along with that switched the cycles - they exploded and some grew like 20-25cm in 3 days. Or maybe it was the pruning all alone... Overall the VEGETATION lasted 2 months and a bit. However for various reasons, the plants were in 1 liter pots for the first 3 weeks so that slowed down the growth. I also had deficiency issues in some plants, of different sorts and I always give them more time to heal. The issues slowly went away when I started feeding them with nutes EVERY OTHER TIME. I will be grateful for every and any advice on the project! : ) THE SETUP Room: 2m x 2m x 2m Buddha box Lighting: 8 x 300w LED panels (180w real usage), 3 watt Epiled diodes - 630nm -16pcs, 660nm -16pcs, 460nm -16pcs, 470nm -16pcs, 3500k -18pcs , 7500k -18pcs In a few days I will put 3 or 4 panels more in the less lit areas, just for fun : ) Ventilation: 1 Vents TT 150 extractor 520m3/h Carbon filter 600m3/h+ Moving fan 30W Substrate: 50% Coco coir/ 50% Perlite, presoaked in 1ml/l Calcium solution, RootIT sponges for the seeds, 11 liter PVC pots Feeding: Greenhouse Powder Feeding - Mother plants (veg), Hybrids (flower) - roughly 3 literes per plant - 0.5g/l first 2-3 weeks in the pots, then 1g/l every other feeding. PH according to the GH scheme for every week. Every week 10 liters flush with PH water, + 1ml/l Calcium the first feeding after Strains: 7 x Liberty Haze, 1 x Skywalker OG Kush, 4 x Cinderella 99, 2 x Critical Kush, 2 x THC Bomb, all fem (may have some GH Cheese also, dunno) All plants have been topped, rather late, and they have been "lollipopped" 80% right on the cycle change. Here are some low-q pictures of the girls, these days will post some decent ones: Stay healthy and be happy!

Hey what's up guys I'm back finally I'm just at the end of a skywalker kush grow from Reserva Privada and figured id through it up here for you to check out I'm running hybrid powder feed which is making these nugs crazy frosty lots of turp development I just have the one pic at the moment I'll get more when the light come on tonight

hello strain hunters, hello all! I've waited a long time for this and at last the time has come to grow my own cannabis. shout out to Ghost and Gonzo for your money maker journals and everyone else on here that's posted a journal on this strain. I'll be germinating One of three money maker seeds I received online I also have regular hawaiian skunk haze and strawberry blue feminized in my arsenal if I get overconfident but I'll be sticking to 1 germination this grow. I'm 50 days out from a move which will be interesting in flower but shouldn't be an issue so this will serve as my trial grow box-calibration run. This Will be a micro grow, I plan on SCROG or at least LST. So here we go... Seed: Feminized Money Maker (Master Kush X Hindu Kush And Skunk) Medium: 20"x13"x 25" Or 50cmX 33cmx 63cm give or take. white ikea cabinet inside and out, sealed with silicone Light: 135w full spectrum UFO (made in China, one bulb out, a few faded, hoping this will help with such small space) additional 2x 68w warm 3200k CFL if need be ventilation: 2x silentX PC fans; one intake, one outtake , one 4 inch desk fan for circulation ; two L-shaped PVC intake and outtake pipes one of which I've rigged with a thin liner sock holding carbon pointing downward tonight my seed soaks, while tmrw I'll be making my final purchases of a 3 gallon pot fox farm ocean forest which I'll cut with perlite 25% along with some tiger bloom and possibly big bloom. I'm torn between this feed or powder feed. though I do like the idea of organic. temp/humidity dealywhammer will come in mail soon enough. my only questions are. a.) with a 135w light doin have the space or am I going to burn? b.) I plan on using ocean forest to cover my short veg I'll have in my small space then just using tiger bloom, bloom big and molasses. c.) I want to be ready for pests, disease etc. I'm clueless here and could use y'all's help d.) will this metal screen work for scrog? e.) the hell am I missing tune in soon more to come once this bean cracks

Here's a picture of one of my Skywalker OG clones in week 8 of flowering. Enjoy!

The “learn from your mistakes” grow!! – 28 days from seed This grow has been a rough one from the start with a decent amount of my own mistakes and various mishaps, on top of being swamped with school and homelife, and that has meant that this crop has not had nearly the attention it deserves and has definitely suffered. As you will see from the pictures, these plants are definitely not where they could be at this stage for a number of reasons that are in the details of the journal. I just hope that I learn from this rough beginning and don't repeat the mistakes that are in my control again. That said, you will notice a very strong Super Lemon Haze that I f’ed up FIM’ing (I know, how do you screw up a FIM?), a strong El Nino, and then in the rear a Trainwreck and a second Super Lemon Haze that both have had a really rough start but have seen much improvement since transplant into non compromised soil (read further ahead in the journal if interested in the moldy Pro Mix!). Even though not a contest I’ve still kept track when I can of what has been happening for my own sake, and for anyone who actually enjoys the often boring dirty details. Please don’t follow exactly what I’ve done, as I said and want to repeat, I made lots of mistakes this time around and I hope that others can learn from them!! There are not many pictures yet, I will pick up the pace on those once flowering has set in. Speaking of flowering, haven’t 100% decided how much longer to veg them, I definitely want the roots to start to fill the 23 L pots before I switch em over though, so at least another 1 or 2 weeks. This time will also allow them to catch up to where they should be. I may have to do some bending and training of the bigger SLH as things progress. Enjoy the few pictures and the tons of details (as always ) for those interested. I will take more pictures of course as they get bigger and into flower..not much to see right now Peace ** IMPORTANT** - PPM's MEASURED AND STATED USING THE 0.1 EC = 70 PPM "TRUNCHEON" CONVERSION Seeds (Surviving ones): 2 x Super Lemon Haze 1 x Trainwreck 1 x El Nino Growing media: Jiffy™ Peat starter pots 3.5 L pots – Pro Mix HP/Grodan Growcubes/Hydrotron clay pellets 23 L pots - Pro Mix™ High Porosity/Grodan™ Growchunks/Hydrotron™ clay pellets @ approx. 40/40/20 mix Lighting: Early Vegetation: 18/6 with 28W Sunshine Systems™ LED’s + Sunblaster T5 fluorescents Once established & Flowering: 18/6 with brand new 600W Hortilux super HPS bulb (more blue in spectrum) enclosed in a cool tube reflector, plus 4 x LEDS Ventilation: Intake (once tent is closed)- 4 inch (10 cm), 176 cfm (300 M3/hr) Typhoon™ inline fan with a Mountain Air carbon filter attached on the intake end to provide some protection against fungi or bacteria etc. from entering the tent. Extraction – via a 6 inch (15 cm), 280 cfm (475 M3/hr) CK™ inline fan with Mountain Air filter Water, Nutrients & Additives: Transplant: Botanicare™ ZHO (Rhizosphere root inoculant w/trichoderma & mycorrhizae) Water & Nutrients: I use the full line of GHSC Powderfeed as a base nutrient then use additives which I feel help in specific ways and compliment the PF. Full strength additives are almost never used, and the plants main source of nutrition is the PF. Vegetation - R/O (reverse osmosis) water + GHSC™ Mother’s Powderfeed as a base nutrient + Botanicare™ Cal-Mag Plus (required when using reverse osmosis water) + Advanced Nutrients B-52 + DNF™ Enhance (pine oil) + DNF Potassium Silicate Flowering – R/O water + GHSC Short Flowering PF (El Nino); GHSC Hybrid PF (Trainwreck); GHSC Long Flowering PF (Super Lemon Hazes) + Cal-Mag Plus + Advanced Nutrients B-52 (during weeks 3 – 6 of flowering + DNF™ Enhance, Advanced Nutrients™ Overdrive, DNF™ Carbo Logic + Advanced Nutrients Sensizym + DNF Potassium Silicate Boost Buddy CO2 boost bag – Trying this out instead of the CO2 pads as it is much cheaper and simpler, but I am doubtful as to how well it will perform. 18/10/13 @ 7:30 pm soaked beans: 2 x Super Lemon Haze, 2 x Trainwreck, 1 x El Nino Water: Reverse Osmosis + a few drops of Cal-Mag Plus to enable measurement of pH ppm = 140 pH’d to 6.1 w/toothpick and pH Down 19/10/13 @ 7:30 pm - Planted in 230 ppm/0.32 EC (r/o + cal-mag plus) soaked peat pellets @ 5.6 pH Dome fully closed for maximum humidity, temperature @ 26.5°C 21/10/13 Added seedling CO2 pad Leaving the light on to add heat until 1st baby sprouts then I will set the timer. @7:30 pm – 48 hours after planting 1 slh & 1 TW have sprouted 22/10/13 Woke this morning to find the 2nd SLH sprouted fully; waiting on the 2nd TW and the EL Nino. Watering the ‘unborn’ peat pellets when necessary with 0.17 EC, pH 5.6 r/o water achieved via a little bit of Cal-Mag plus. - @ 7:30 pm: 72 hrs after planting the El Nino baby is born! 4/5 sprouted. - Watering the seedlings with r/o water + Cal-mag plus @ 250 ppm /0.35 EC, pH @ 5.5 Temp = 25.5 – 26.5 w/lights on rH = 50 % 23/10/13 The2nd Trainwreck baby sort of sprouted, grew a tiny taproot but was not healthy and would not open so in the garbage she goes and RIP. Soaking a 2nd El Nino seed for 6 hrs then going to try planting in a rockwool starter cube this time that I got off a buddy to try instead of the usual peat pellets. I’ve had good success with the peat pellets with only 2 or 3 seeds lost out of 29 (if I’m counting correctly) but have read negative things about them in numerous places and I would like to try some new ideas. Soaked rockwool cube in r/o water adjusted to 0.35 EC/245 ppm w/Cal Mag Plus, pH @ 5.6 & planted El Nino seed after a 7 hour soak. 24/10/13 Lights on enviro: Temp = 25°C rH = 40 – 45% I’ve been reading multiple places that say you don’t need any higher than 55% max to veg weed, but rH has been a little too low. I’m trying out a smaller ultrasonic style humidifier that is having a hard time keeping up, since I’ve had to return the large wick-style one I keep using twice and it’s screwed up again so this would be 3 units. They don’t handle being close to heat sources (ie. portable heaters) very well. 26/10/13 – 4th day since sprouting ***NOTE TO SELF FOR NEXT GROW!! THIS IS AROUND WHERE I SHOULD HAVE STARTED VERY LIGHTLY WITH THE POWDERFEED TO ADD SOME PHOSPHOROUS AND OTHER BENEFICIAL NUTES – ONCE MULTIPLE ROOTS SHOWED The 2 SLH, 1 Trainwreck, 1 El nino babies all are looking very healthy with multiple root tips already showing through the bottom of the pellets Mixed new feed water: r/o water + Cal Mag plus + pH down 300 ppm (0.42 EC) & pH @ 5.6 Lights on temp. = 25 - 26°C rH = 45 - 50% Lights off temp. = 22°C rH = 55% 27/10/13 Some light coloured spots developing on the 1st true leaves of the Trainwreck and the SLH#2, hopefully nothing serious. Hung and opened the Boost Buddy CO2 bag above the plants. I will see how well it works compared to the pads. 28/10/13 - The 2nd El Nino has sprouted! 29/10/13 – 7 days since sprouting TRANSPLANT – Both SLH, 1 x TW & 1 x El Nino transplanted Step 1 – Soaked Grodan™ rockwool Growcubes (smaller ones for 3.5 L pot) for 30 mins in r/o water + Cal Mag Plus @ 1 mL/L x 7 L = 7 mL ppm 280 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.75 mL/L x 7 L = 5 mL ppm 60 GHSC Mother’s PF @ 0.1 g/L x 7 L = 0.7 g ppm 120 pH: 5.6 Total: ppm 460 Step 2 – Soaked Hydrotron clay pellets in r/o water + nutes for 15 minutes and agitated a few times to wash thoroughly and clean sediment from pellets then drained Cal Mag Plus @ 0.75 mL/L x 6 L = 6 mL (EC 0.3) ppm 220 pH: 5.6 Total (EC: 0.3) Step 3 – Added dry Pro-mix HP and mixed 50/50 with Grodan rockwool Growcubes, watered to drain with: Cal-Mag Plus @ 1 mL/L x 10 L = 10 mL (EC 0.40) ppm 270 DNF Enhance pine oil @ 0.5 mL/L x 10 L = 5 mL (EC: 0.03) 20 ppm Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.5 mL/L x 10 L = 5 mL (EC 0.08) 50 ppm GHSC Mother’s @ 0.15 g/L x 10 L = 1.5 g 160 ppm pH @ 5.6 Total ppm: 500 Temp: 21 °C Step 4- Lined the bottom of the 3.5 L pots with a double layer of Hydrotron pellets Step 5 - Filled the pots with soiless /growcube mix leaving room for the peat pellet/seedling and a top layer of hydrotron Step 6 - Sprinkled ¼ tsp as per directions of Botannicare ZHO root inoculant (mychorrizae, trichoderma, amino acid) in circular area where seedling was to be placed Step 7 – Cut mesh from top of peat pellets and rolled down ¼ of the way down the pellet so water penetrates and reaches root ball. Step 8 - Placed pellet in pot on top of sprinkled ZHO and filled in with Promix/growcube mix then topped with light layer of hydrotron Step 9 – Watered around pellet with same nutrient mix as Pro-mix wetting Step #3 **used about 70/30 mix of rockwool cubes to soiless this time. Added 2nd LED with T5’s hanging vertically as side lighting. The spots on the two seedlings continue to spread a little. They have lots of roots so I’m hoping they just wanted a bigger home and that the transplant helps them 30/10/13 El nino #2 is looking great in the rockwool cube, taproot is showing through the bottom of the cube. The plants already look like they love the transplant with the SLH#1 and EL Nino both reaching high for the leaves and both showing excellent growth. The new leaves on the 2 “spotted” plants look great and they also show decent growth overnight. Mixed water for El nino seedling: r/o water + Cal-Mag Plus + pH down Ppm = 300 pH = 5.6 Temp = 20 ** Note: El nino seedling water got higher ppm than the others, @ 300 ppm it’s the same as my tap water but with a different form of Calcium and Magnesium than in tap water, one much more available to the plants. 02/11/13 – Main group @ Day 11 since sprout The spotted SLH#2 is coming around the best out of the two strugglers, but the spotted TW is still smallish and struggling the most. With less healthy leaf tissue to photosynthesize I think it is holding it back. The good news is that new growth is healthy with the 2nd set of true leaves looking good, she is just on the small side for now. 03/11/2013 – El Nino is 6 days old The SLH#1 and EL Nino #1 are both thriving in their new pots and are quite large compared to the other 2, but even they even have a tiny bit of spotting on the leaf fringes. I think I might have ideas about what could have caused the problems: By day 4 I should have added a tiny bit of Mothers PF and lowered the Cal-Mag a little to add phosphorous etc. – MOST LIKELY the CAUSE AND NEED TO REMEMBER FOR NEXT GROW!! The rH was too low causing issues with uptake of calcium and magnesium MY LAZYNESS – I was mixing water and using it 48 hours later, maybe even 72 hrs once. And although it is only Cal-Mag Plus, it is best to mix fresh water every watering, at least every 24 hours. Being seedlings they deserve better treatment than adult plants and I would never premix water like that as the nutrient ions could possibly come out of solution after a certain period. I won’t do this again. Cleanliness and sterilization – nothing big, again lazy/busy in this area ie. hand washing, cleaning AND sterilizing tools etc. Things you take for granted until something goes wrong. It’s been 3 days since the main taproot showed through the bottom of the el nino rockwool cube and shes very healthy but still no other roots. I would like to see a few more poke through before I transplant them. After some reading, I should be letting the cube dry out a little more before I water it, and she is super green so no more than 220 - 250 ppm is probably good since rockwool pretty much gives up all the food to the roots with its excellent cat ion exchange properties **ALSO SEE BELOW UNDER “DISSAPOINTED IN MYSELF” ** DISSAPOINTED IN MYSELF – I forgot one of the bigger things that I learned last grow L: I noticed now that last grow the PF was started very lightly by the 4th day of growth with the Big Bang plant and I was trying to model the feedings in this grow somewhat around it..damn L The PF has phosphorous, Cal Mag plus has none. I’ve started the El Nino #2 on light PF as of today at 6 days, I hope it helps. This could be reason for the spots and issues with the 4 main seedlings before I transplanted as well, and I ‘m also noticing a bit of bluish colour which could be phosphorous deficiency. I’m staying calm, carrying on and hoping for the best. LOTS OF LESSONS TO BE LEARNED AND REMEMBERED AND I’M FEELING VERY MUCH LIKE A NEWB RIGHT NOW! Sometimes it is good to remember you still have lots to learn BUT I should have taken more time to look over my notes from my last regular photo grow if I’m gonna take the time to keep them L Mixed up 500 mL new water for El Nino – now 6 days old: Cal – mag Plus to ppm = 220 GHSC Mother’s PF @ ppm = 80 pH = 5.5 Temperature = 20 °C Lights on temp. = 25 - 26°C rH = 45 - 50% - it was around 55% for a couple of days but it’s very dry outside again. Lights off temp. = 23°C rH = 55% 04/11/2013 – El Nino#2 is 7 days old – transplant time The El nino baby has nice fuzzy multiple roots now coming out the bottom of the cube and it’s time to put her in a 3.5 L pot. I’ve again made a few slight changes to the nutrients used at this step with slightly more Powderfeed going into step #3. Step 1 – Soaked Grodan™ rockwool Growcubes (smaller ones for 3.5 L pot) for 30 mins in r/o water + Cal Mag Plus @ 0.9 mL/L x 2 L = 1.8 mL ppm 240 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.5 mL/L x 2 L = 1 mL ppm 40 GHSC Mother’s PF @ 0.15 g/L x 2 L = 0.35 g ppm 180 pH: 5.6 Temp: 20 Total ppm 460 Step 2 – Soaked Hydrotron clay pellets in r/o water + nutes for 15 minutes and agitated a few times to wash thoroughly and clean sediment from pellets then drained Cal Mag Plus @ 0.75 mL/L x 6 L = 6 mL ppm 220 pH: 5.6 Total: ppm 220 Step 3 – Added dry Pro-mix HP and mixed 50/50 with Grodan rockwool Growcubes, watered to drain with: Cal-Mag Plus @ 0.9 mL/L x 2 L = 1.8 mL 240 ppm DNF Enhance pine oil @ 1 mL/L x 2 L = 2 mL 30 ppm Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.5 mL/L x 2 L = 1 mL 50 ppm GHSC Mother’s @ 0.15 g/L x 2 L = 0.3 g 200 ppm pH @ 5.6 Total ppm: **520 Temp: 21 °C ** used a little too much PF, diluted to 470 ppm with r/o **Bad news – gonna be one of those crops While transplanting the El nino#2 I noticed the smell of the ProMix was more musty than normal, and there was a bit of moisture it seemed between the outside of the bale and the package, the area that was already opened looked ok so I went ahead with it. Keep in mind this is the bale I opened about 4 or 5 months ago but I didn’t use much of it (maybe 10 L out of 109 L) and thought it would be ok to store and use but I decided it would be best to throw it out and purchase new Promix after the transplant. $32.99 isn’t worth a ruined crop. When I took it outside and cut open the entire bale to spread it out I noticed mildew or mold growing on the compacted outside of the bale L So, I basically transplanted the 5 plants into compromised Pro-Mix. Very shitty and I can only hope that the entire bale isn’t full of it. My second hope is that I used Botanicare ZHO mychorrhizae /trichoderma root inoculant at transplant and that this stuff beats out any nasty fungus that might be present. They will all get another dose in about 1.5 weeks at next transplant, as well as new Pro-Mix HP + Grow chunks. I’m also going to foliar spray the leaves with the DNF Enhance pine oil additive at half the recommended strength for foliar to start. It is specifically used to fight pathogens in the plant tissue and is supposed to be good for seedlings even. Misted the plants at lights on with/ Reverse osmosis water + DNF Enhance pine oil @ 0.7 mL/L x 1 L = 0.7 mL pH = 6.8 Temp. = 21 ppm = too low to read *Raised the LEDs up to 60 cm until the leaves were dry Added 3rd LED and set up the 2 T5 Sunblasters vertically on either side of the LEDS, also angled the outer LEDs slightly towards the centre. 06/11/13 – Main group of 4 plants are 15 days old Today is the 1st water since transplanting the main group 8 days ago. Watered Trainwreck, El Nino#1, SLH#1 & #2 each w/ 1 L r/o water + Botanicare Cal Mag Plus @ 0.9 mL/L x 4 L = 3.5 mL ppm: 260 DNF Enhance pine oil @ 1 mL/L x 4 L = 4 mL ppm: 40 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.5 mL/L x 4 L = 2 mL ppm: 50 GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.25 g/L x 4 L = 1 g ppm: 260 Drops of Phosphoric acid (pH down) Temperature: 20°C pH: 5.6 Total ppm: 610 Plant Run-off pH Run-off ppm SLH#1 6.2 950 SLH#2 6.3 930 El Nino#1 6.3 950 Trainwreck 6.4 950 07/11/13 There hasn’ a lot of growth up top from El nino #2 since the transplant. I’m concerned that either it was transplanted a little too soon and there weren’t quite enough roots, or that the soiless peat surrounding the rockwool cube is wicking the moisture away from the rockwool cube and root ball which from what I’ve read is a common problem when transplanting from rockwool to soil or soiless. Watered rockwool cube of El Nino#2 w/ r/o water + Botanicare Cal Mag Plus @ 0.9 mL/L x 500 mL = 0.45 mL ppm: 260 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 1 mL/L x 500 mL = 0.5 mL ppm: 100 GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.15 g/L x 500 mL = 0.075 g ppm: 40 Temperature: 20°C pH: 5.6 Total ppm: 400 FIM’d SLH#1 @ 5th node: She is getting tall quickly, and the El Nino is staying short and squat true to her genetics. I figure it’s time to try some new tricks and control the SLH height at the same time. I may or may not FIM SLH#2 depending on how she does. She is a little behind her sister due to her struggles at the beginning with the spots. Lights on temp. = 25 - 27°C rH = 50% - 55% Lights off temp. = 23°C rH = 55% 10/11/13 – 21 days old Last night the 600W cool tube was installed and was set at 80 cm above the plants. It was lowered to 70 cm today and they seemed to respond well last overnight. The T5’s are being used horizontally right now as side lighting to help the lateral branching develop under the big fans. The LEDS will be added soon as well. Damn cat snuck downstairs and into the tent while doing the light install, I turned around and there he was having already taken a big bite outta two SLH#2 leaves L Every single crop he manages to get a taste somehow I’ve at least positioned the T5’s to take advantage of the leaves not shading as much of the lateral growth. I learned a hard lesson about transplanting seedlings too early from a rockwool cube into soilless. The little El nino was doing absolutely nothing and I tossed her out a few days ago. She didn’t have enough roots coming through the cube and the few that did started to rot. SO it will be a 4 plant grow it looks like. I was looking at rapid rooters at the hydro store and may try them next. The owner has had amazing results he says and they can be transplanted into soiless without worrying about water being wicked from them. Watered El Nino, SLH#1 each w/ 1.5 L r/o water + Botanicare Cal Mag Plus @ 1.25 mL/L x 3 L = 3.75 mL ppm: 300 DNF Enhance pine oil @ 1 mL/L x 3 L = 3 mL ppm: 30 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.75 mL/L x 3 L = 2.25 mL ppm: 80 GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.45 g/L x 3L = 1.3 g ppm: 340 Potassium Silicate @ 0.125 mL/L x 3L = 0.4 mL ppm: 20 Drops of Phosphoric acid (pH down) Temperature: 20°C pH: 5.7 Total ppm: 770 Plant Run-off pH Run-off ppm SLH#1 6.2 1000 El Nino 6.2 1010 11/11/13 Watered Trainwreck & SLH#2 each w/ 2 L r/o water + Botanicare Cal Mag Plus @ 1 mL/L x 4 L = 4 mL ppm: 290 DNF Enhance pine oil @ 1 mL/L x 4 L = 4 mL ppm: 40 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.75 mL/L x 4 L = 3 mL ppm: 70 GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.4 g/L x 4L = 1.5 g ppm: 340 Potassium Silicate @ 0.125 mL/L x 4L = 0.5 mL ppm: 20 Drops of Phosphoric acid (pH down) Temperature: 21°C pH: 5.5 Total ppm: 760 Plant Run-off pH Run-off ppm SLH#2 6.3 970 Trainwreck 6.2 1010 pH has really been rising, rH also has been down to around 45%, I need to get the bigger humidifier working, hopefully it just needs a new wick. TW & SLH#2 still are not anywhere near as robust as the El Nino and SLH#1 plants. It almost looks like overfert with leaves curling under a little and a dry paper feeling, but run-off numbers aren’t that high, so possibly the pH rising with the Pro Mix gone bad. After some reading I now also know that when the Pro-Mix got damp, it activated the lime which is part of the reason the pH is climbing so rapidly. I will see how they do over the next couple days after this feed, hopefully transplanting them later in the week will help. 12/11/2013 Now that the plants have had 2 days of HID light, 2 of the LED’s were added. 13/11/2013 – 24 days old Two days since last water for TW and SLH#2 and they look much improved. With the addition of the 2 LEDS all plants were nice and erect with leaves reaching for the lights. I’ve witnessed this every grow now with the LEDS, it is amazing the response they create in the plants. Lights on temp. = 26 - 27°C **rH = 40-45% Lights off temp. = 23°C rH = 55% ** still battling low rH with the lights on. I would be happy if I could get it up to 50% lights on. Once the plants get a bit bigger and I close up the tent I’m hoping the rH rises a little. By the time I get a new wick for the big humidifier I will want the rH to be 40% J Watered El Nino, SLH#1 each w/ 2 L r/o water + Botanicare Cal Mag Plus @ 0.75 mL/L x 4 L = 3 mL ppm: 230 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 1 mL/L 4 L = 4 mL ppm: 100 GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.25 g/L x 4L = 1 g ppm: 280 Potassium Silicate @ 0.125 mL/L x 4L = 0.6 mL ppm: 40 Drops of Phosphoric acid (pH down) Temperature: 20°C pH: 5.7 Total ppm: 650 Plant Run-off pH Run-off ppm SLH#1 6.2 860 El Nino 6.2 870 14/11/2013 – 25 days old – Transplant time Step 1 – Soaked Grodan™ rockwool Growchunks (BIGGER THAN GROWCUBES) for 30 mins in r/o water + (made in 2 x 17 L batches) Cal Mag Plus @ 1.25 mL/L x 17 L = 19 mL ppm: 310 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 1 mL/L x 15 L = 15 mL ppm: 100 GHSC Mother’s PF @ 0.4 g/L x 15 L = 6 g ppm: 350 Potassium Silicate @ 0.125 mL/L x 15 L = 1.875 mL ppm: 40 pH @ 5.5 Temp: 22 Total ppm: 800 Step 2 – Mixed in the dry Pro-mix HP, 50/50 ratio with the pre-soaked Growchunks Step 3 - Lined the bottom of the 23 L pots with a nice layer of Hydrotron clay pellets Step 4 - Filled the pots with soiless /Growchunk mix leaving room for plants and a layer of Hydrotron on the bottom and watered to drain with r/o water + Cal-Mag Plus @ 1 mL/L x 12 L = 12 mL ppm: 280 Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 0.75 mL/L x 12L = 9 mL ppm: 70 DNF Enhance @ 1 mL/L x 12 L = 12 mL ppm: 40 GHSC Mother’s PF @ 0.25 g/L x 12 L = 3 g ppm: 260 pH @ 5.5 Temp: 21 Total ppm: 640 Step 5 - Sprinkled ¼ tsp as per directions of Botannicare ZHO root inoculant (mychorrizae, trichoderma, amino acid) on the root ball and the circular area where plant was to be placed Step 6 - Placed plant in pot on top of sprinkled ZHO and filled in with Promix/growcube mix then topped with layer of hydrotron Step 7 – Watered around plant root ball with same nutrient mix formula from Step 4. Root ball was best formed and super healthy in the El Nino, then came the SLH#1, SLH#2, and the Trainwreck last with some decent roots formed still. They were definitely not root bound, but I think in the future I can still pot up to the 23L a little sooner even if they are healthy. Added the other 2 LED’s for a total of 4. One for each plant, they’re gonna need all the help they can get this grow. The addition of the large pots has added a little bit of much needed humidity to the room with the rH staying @ 49-51% It looks like my first attempt at FIM’ing on the SLH#1 was a total fail. It looks like I cut too much of the 4th node as well which served to slow down the growth of those leaves, and I didn’t cut enough of the 5th node to produce the proper hormone response to get multiple shoots. So at least it was a learning experience, and in the end it served its purpose of slowing the upper growth of the SLH#1 to keep it manageable and allow the others to catch up, and it allowed lateral growth to increase and all is not lost. By the time they get switched to flowering she will be recovered. FOR ANYONE WHO ACTUALLY MADE IT HERE READING AND IS STILL AWAKE..CONGRATULATIONS!! YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF TO LIGHT UP A FATTY!!

WELCOME TO MY AUTO KALASHNIKOVA GROW Equipment list Green room 100 grow tent (1.2m x 1.2m x 2m). 600w lumatek digital dimmable ballast. 600w sunmaster dual spectrum mh & hps bulbs. 120w Led Grow Lights - Seven Spectrum by PRAKASA (ideal for all stages of plant growth. Deep Red, Red, Blue, Orange, White, UV and IR LED) Cooltube reflector 5” rvk 125 extractor fan 250m3/hr.(plus fan speed controllor) 5” phat filter 125mm x 300mm (408m3/hr) 5” duct pipe Arcadia dual t5 12% uvb/uva strip lights with reflectors. Strip heater with thermostat for night heating( if temperature is to low) Digital mix/max recording thermometer/hygrometer. Clip on oscillating fan. Bluelab PH and EC pens with cleaning / calibration kits. Dutch pro ph down veg/bloom & ph up. Jiffy 7s 50mm coco coir fibre plug. Plant training bendz (for bending branches to get more light) Yo Yos (for plant support if needed) 10 x 1 gallon root pouches. Coco pro plus, and perlite. Ghs mother plant & mostly indica powder feed. Liquid Oxygen Cal/Mag supplement (if needed) Clip on normal light bulb for taking photos 22/05/2013 ive caliabrated my ph and ec pens soaked 10 coco pellets in a ph of 5.8 ec 0.6 ive germinated my seeds by putting spring water inside the seeds sealer bag that they came in the next day they have craked ,then i planted the seeds in the coco pellets, ive still got 2 plants in the grow room so in the night the seedlings are gorwing in the tent under hps light then taking out and put in the window to get natural day light when the hsp lights are off ,this will only be for 1 week till i can up the hours in the grow tent and get the l.e.d set up

After many attempts to make all sorts of LED-conversions I finnaly found one solution that is simple and efficient. Of course, you do need a great amount of patience in making this but when you consider the countless hours of pure light -low consumption you'll get, it's all worth it. This tutorial is about converting regular GU4(MR11) halogen bulbs to LED bulbs while maintaining full usability as 12V light bulbs that can be used in indoor task or accent lighting. You'll need the following stuff to start working: one halogen bulb (burnt or new since they are really cheap) with no glass cover on front. LED's - as many as you want. You may want to keep this number reasonable since more than 22 LED's will make you work painful. online acces to http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz , a great LED array calculator you can use to figure out the resistors you'll need depending on your number of LED's and the supply voltage. Super Glue & compound glue. You can use other glue as well but super glue sticks fast and I recomend it. solder wire, moderate soldering skills, solder gun one small piece of 0.2mm aluminium sheet (this is used in printing industry, I work in this field and there are a lot of aluminium plates around here). Any offset printing shop will be kind enough to give you a used one since they use hundreds each month. a paper perforator (office type, 2-hole punch) resistors (depending on your needs) a few other common household items along with a good amount of patience. Step one - empty the bulb. Start by taking a small screwdriver and twisting its tip on the white cement you'll see around the bulb's pins. This cement is very fine and will start crumbe as a fine powder as you keep twisting the screwdriver's tip. Proceed with this until you get enough cement out for the next phase. Patience is a virtue so take you time and be gentle since the bulbs can easily break if you force you way in with the screwdriver. Action time. Take a hammer and after you got out out as much white cement you could, put the bulb face-down on a flat surface. Hit the two pins with the hammer, in a easy but ferm manner. The bulb inside should fall on the table leaving the reflector empty. Some white cement will remain but that's OK, it's not so important and might even be useful later. Step two - make your holding disc. Put the empty reflector aside since it's time to get to another task. It's now time to make the LED support. You'll need a template so make yourself one. I used graphic software to evenly distribute the 5mm holes on the disc. The disk size is up to you. More led's will require larger disks. Print your template on paper and cut it out with paper scissors. Place it on the aluminium sheet and light glue it on its surface. This will be useful to cut the disc properly. Take the aluminium sheet and cut out the holes using a office perforator. I found out mine cuts exactly 5mm holes in paper so for 5mm LED's it's perfect. Keeping it upside down, place the template along with the aluminium disc glued on it inside it. Cut out the holes after aligning the circles in the cutting hole. This should be easy and fairly quick. For this tutorial, I'll use 22 LEDs and a disk diameter of 4 cm. In this picture you can see another disk I made for 15 LEDs. It's easy and if you practice a little you can make this in minutes. The aluminium sheet will serve as a light reflector and a holder for LEDs in the same time so take care not to bend it. After cutting out the holes it''s time to see how the led's should be connected. Go to http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz and fill in the fields with your parameters. Here's a screenshot of what the wizard reccomended for my 22 LEDs 12V array. So now I know how to connect them. Place the aluminium disc in some holding device (I have one like the one in the photo and it's great). Be creative with this, basically you have to hold the disc by its outer rims. For example, a pipe section with proper diameter will do. Insert the Leds into the holes with the legs up and arranged in such a manner that one cathode is next to another anode. This will make soldering easy. Don't forget this or you will have great difficulties soldering them according to the scheme. Put one tiny drop of Super Glue on each led margin and continue arranging the other ones. WARNING! Take care not to accidentally apply super glue on the LED legs. When you'll have to solder the legs, these will be heated and the glue will give off a little colourless smoke with major effects on your eyes! I know, i've done that and couldn't stopped crying for one hour. I think that's how they make that tear gas after all ... After all LED's are placed and glued, put compound glue around each LED for a solid result. It is necessary to glue them firmly since the legs will have to be bended and you'll risk some leds to come off otherwise. (that's experience speaking) Now let the glue to harden before proceeding. In my case this meant 24 hours but the result was worth it. Step three - making connections Take one nailclipper and cut out the LED legs, keeping in mind that one anode will have to be bent over to the next cathode and so on. Also take care not to confuse the two of them. You can check that with one multimeter set to diodes. As the scheme advises, I'll have to make 5 strings of 4 LEDs each and one string of two. Since I arranged the leds in such a fashion that one cathode is next to another anode, this operation is much easier. After soldering one string, keep the end legs at different lenghts to easily identify the + and the - end. Take the nailclipper and cut the LED legs and bend them to the next leg. The + goes to a - and so on until you complete a string of four. Then start a new string. When you're done making all the strings according to the scheme, you should have six + legs longer than the six - ones. It's time to solder the resistors. But first bend the longer legs toward each other and solder them to have all the + legs connected together. This should be done over the other connections keeping some distance to prevent short-circuits. The resistors should be soldered vertically to the - legs. When soldering, try to be as quick as possible sice you'll be heating the LED legs close to their base and too much heat will damage them. Now solder the resistors legs to each other in order to get a single - that goes to all the strings. Try to keep a low profile so that the whole thing will fit the bulb. Now solder the final legs. Use copper wire (thicker) and keep in mind that one (-) has to be shorter. The whole thing should now be pretty rigid since so many solderings were made. But for your peace of mind, use a hot glue gun to fill the gaps so that no wire accidentally touches another. This is optional. Now take the empty bulb and put the LED disc inside. The space should be enough if you maintained a low profile when soldering. It fits perfectly. Push the LEDs until the disc touches the inner reflector. Hold it still and get the compound glue now. I used some bicomponent glue but any glue with increased consistency should do. Just make sure it's strong enough since it will be the only thing that holds the bulb in one piece. Fill the space around the legs coming out of the bulb with as much glue it will take. Wait until the glue hardens. In my case it took 10 min. and I held the LEDs pressed in the whole time. After it hardened, use a permanent marker to write on the base the + and - legs as well as the voltage it will use. Now cut the legs so that it matches the original bulb legs, equal in lenght. Job done! It's time for a test. Connect the bulb to a 12V battery (car or anything else providing that voltage). Hold your breath and... It's working! The photo actually does not display the amount of light generated as it's blinding if you stare into it directly. I had to seriously under-expose to make this visible. You can use any type of 5mm LED to make ledbulbs just make sure you know the forward voltage and current since it will be necessary when calculating resistors. I made blue, red, yellow and white ones, with successful results. I also made 6V LED bulbs I use in flashlights, replacing the entire flashlight mirror with one of this bulbs. In this case, the current consumption should be ( according to the scheme ) 220mA. It actually uses only 200 mA, or at least that's what my multimeter says. Here are some LED bulbs I made, 12V and 6V ones. They generate virtually no heat and the most powerful one I made takes 12V@200mA and has 6 pcs. of 0,5W LED's. These LEDs were pretty expensive but the light output is great. The type of LED's you use is important since a more dispersed light will be better than a concentrated one. You could also file the LEDs prior to making the bulb so as to have a more uniform light. These LED bulbs can also be used in 12V AC spot lamps if you don't mind the 50Hz flicker. But the best results will come out from 12V DC. Thank you for reading. Peace. : )

Hi strain hunters. After talking to Lamsbread about LED grow lights over the past few weeks. Lamsbread suggested that the info would be great on the forums so other could use. So this is going to be info I have got from a few company’s from china. And after talking to Lamsbread and looking on line I may be wrong on this but I think most of the LED grow lights that are for sale come from china and then are just given new names and resold. Feel free to ask any questions on LED grow lights, post info you have on LED grow lights, and post links to other places that have info or sale LED grow lights.

Hello friends! I'm almost finished my autoflower grow and just can't wait any longer to get my Cup journal started. Especially since I picked up the seeds 2 days ago and my "secret weapons" shipment that I ordered from Holland on Friday, showed up here in Canada by UPS today Talk about fast! After the success that I saw switching to the Powderfeed with my auto's about 1/2 way through the grow, I decided to add to the free 1 kg of Hybrid Powderfeed that GHSC generously sent me (to be used for the Trainwreck during flowering) by purchasing 1 kg of Mother's Powderfeed for both strains for vegetative growth & 1 kg of Sativa (called "Long Flowering" for Canada & the USA customers lol) for the Super Lemon Haze plants during flowering. As you can see in the picture, they also kindly and generously sent me a free hat (my first GHSC item!) after I spoke with them by phone when my dumb ass (see also stoned) accidentally clicked and ordered 2 bags of Mother Powderfeed by mistake I have to say that the guys at the Powderfeed store were more than friendly and easy to deal with. Thanks Mike, and thanks to the kind gentleman who answered my call, in Dutch, and got a good laugh when I innocently asked if he spoke English and then replied in perfect English, "Why yes of course" LOL. Oh boy..most Dutch speak English don't they? I can be so ignorant sometimes I thought many did but.. I need to thank Bigbrown for the "Yin-Yang" name, when I mentioned the strains I was thinking he said something about it being a real Yin-Yang grow, and he's right with two powerful strains at very opposite ends of the effects spectrum My plans so far are to germinate 6 seeds, 3 from each strain, grow them all out until they are ready to transplant into the 23 liter containers and go into the scrog keeping the 2 best from each strain and culling the other 2. I'm also thinking of doing a comparison with some plants receiving only the Powderfeed & the others the Powderfeed plus a few additives but I'm not 100% sure how I want to do that with 3 plants from each strain or exactly what additives I want to use. I might try just Powderfeed on 1 plant from each strain and additives on the other 2 plants for vegging, then move to 1 plant from each strain receiving only Powderfeed and the other 1 from each strain Powderfeed plus additives once they move into the 23 L pots. If anyone has any suggestions or comments please feel free to voice them I'm hoping to see/show that while the plants with additives may do a little better, there is not a huge difference between them and that the increased ease of use, and lower cost of using just the Powderfeed makes it an awesome product. But we will have to see, the purely Powderfeed plants may even outperform the plants with additives..that would be cool!! What I'm really hoping that I see that purchasing all of these additives and mixing them is a waste of my time and money But I'm a tinker, I just have to screw with stuff and try and make it a little better lol I'm not germinating today, germination date is January 2nd, same date as the harvest of my 3 remaining autos which I will hang to dry in the grow tent since it will not be in use until the SLH & Trainwreck babies grow bigger (and since it has a carbon filter!). I would start them right away but my seedling area right now is in the same room as my veg/flowering tent and it is at about 30-32% rH right now to finish flowering. So just before they are done I will be cranking up the 9 gallon humidifier shown in the picture that I just purchased specifically for this purpose to get rH to about 60% which will be perfect for a nice slow dry of the 3 plants from my last grow, and high enough for seedlings to start off comfortably. More pictures and details about gear and nutrients will follow with germination pictures next post which should be Jan 03 or 04th. I am picking up a few new things..an intake fan for the tent, an EC meter, and a 4th LED for vegetative growth and supplementary flowering lighting in the tent for sure. So that being said here are a few pictures of awesome GHSC products to start of this grow journal, as well as the awesome new Bob Marley shirt I got as a Christmas gift Best of luck to all growers and friends! PEACE EDIT: Ya I just realized I put the wrong package of seeds in front of the wrong Powderfeed..in case anyone is concerned that I may not know which one to use with what strain LOL