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Found 23 results

  1. Lights• 2x Mars Hydro 300w leds --- one only on at the moment. Grow Area - Equipment• 4x4 HomeBox Evolution Grow tent ••• Manrose 4 inch 241m3 L/hr inline fan ••• Mountain Air 4 inch carbon filter ••• Hailea 9610 600L/hr air pump ••• Desk fan ••• 500w oil filled radiator with thermostat. Hydro• DWC --- 10 litre buckets for Veg --- 25 litre buckets for Flowering. Strains• Unknown, Sensi Seeds Feminised mix. PH• adjusted to 5.6 and will let it rise to 5.9 before bringing it down again. Nutrients• General Hydroponics Flora Series. Temperatures• 22 to 25 degrees day and night. Humidity• Currently at 80% EC/PPM• Currently at 1.2 EC or 600PPM Plants are just over 2 weeks old now, germinated in paper towels then moved to one inch rockwool cubes for 1 week then transplanted to 3 inch rockwool cubes for one more week before being put into DWC today. Up until now they have only received Super Thrive in plain tap water with a PPM of just under 300, EC 0.6....chlorine removed overnight, the 3 inch rockwool cubes were soaked overnight in a mild solution of Flora Bloom PH'd to 5.5. 2 days ago they got a first light feeding 1.1.1 ratio of Nutrients + Epsom Salt PPM 400 or EC 0.8 Growth has been slow for the first 2 weeks up until 2 days ago when they got their first light feeding and now have gathered some speed, I have 3 plants growing at the moment all the pics below are the same plant. The other 2 plants are one week behind and more pics will follow. Any advice or questions welcome. Thanks for looking
  2. Hi day 1 here is my second grow dwc super lemon haze auto greenhouseseeds. Light 600w HPS 18h on, 4h of, ph 6, tap water EC 0.6 Sorry for my English is not my first language. Peace
  3. Hello and Welcome to my First blog...... Thanks for stopping by, I'm EastCoastCannaCure(Ryan), am in my early 30's and have been learning from growing for 12 years at this point. Basically I'm 12years inexperienced as we are just learning so much about cannabis at a mind blowing rate these days, and the leaps and bounds being taken each day by notables such as Remo, and Horatio, the guys at StrainHunters and GreenHouse Seeds for some amazing genetics, that a vast part of the true "experience" and knowledge is still out there and being attained and sought after. With colleges being started and the science and techniques themselves being truly explored, and the amount of knowledge being gained, it sure is a great time to be a part of such a positive change and developing a quality and natural medicine. I have somewhat trickled over from the forums (after only one post I had been updating) as the schedule I keep and the time I currently spend with my favorite ladies seems to transfer over well with the context and delivery of a blog.. well we will see anyway. I will continue to update both of them and see which one works best. Now.. why I'm here. I maintain at this moment 3 grow tents 2 are 4 x 4 and one is 8x4. I just moved and had to start from seed, as quality clones locally were not available at the time and luckily enough the great folks at GreenHouseSeeds/StrainHunters gifted me a pack of Super Critical, The Church, and the long flowering Neville's Haze so I could share my grow experience with these strains to you.. each in its own set of lighting (I use both LED, HPS, and CFL( for mothers and clones)). I like to run side by sides and test different strains in different ways. I plan on doing a advanced nutrients vs remo nutrients side by side very soon. I have always been a loyal Advanced Nutrients user, but a friend of mine introduced me to Remo Nutrients and a side by side he was conducting... and I must say Id have to be a fool not to give Remo a try(I have not yet tried any of StrainHunters nutrients but do plan on trying them and testing results with them as well as I do like their packaged approach and would love to test its simplicity and how well it produces healthy, deficient free medicine.) I guess in this post I'll detail what I have currently in progress and where I plan to be and of course how I am getting there. Basically right now I have popped 3 Super Critical Beans and I had one Super Sensi Star + Critical bean left from a previous grow and wanted a mother from that so I popped that as well. I am growing them in a top and bottom feed 4 plant DWC-Recirculating hydroponic system, they were seedling'd under a 600w LED and then veg'd under 2 600W LEDS and 1 600W HPS in the middle, and are now in week 2 of Flower with a 1200W LED and a 600W HPS in a 8x4 tent. My next post will detail some pictures of leading up to where I'm at, and some information on my techniques and how they work for me.. I am open to suggestions as there is definitely more then one way to skin a cat, and yes some of those ways are simply proven to be more efficient or more beneficiary then others. Stay tuned.
  4. Hello to the great GH community! I will make this quick and to the point for you. Been around this industry now for roughly 26 years. Have tried many many applications with varied results. Desert Grows using Palm Leaves as shading and bones, scorpions and local cactus for nutrient teas with sand medium to Indoor fully controlled environments. I dig them all! I currently have an unknown landrace Sativa that i discovered up in the Sierra Madre Mountains of Sonora / Sinaloa Mexico. I have been growing her for almost 3 years now with 20 grows. This is my 21st session with her at the moment which started with organic soil from Guadalajara Mexico and transitioned into an indoor Ebb n' Flo controlled environment with major training. FIM, Topped, Scrog, Super crop, de-scrog, tied and under canopy lighting. Will post more on a journal for all to enjoy, critique, comment or just learn from. I also have an account on GrassCity Forums (MultiTech) should anyone feel the urge to read up on my outing there as well. I am very excited to be a part of this great community and will be looking forward to others, nubez to tradesman, grows, techniques, questions and commentary. Saludos a Todos! -MultiTech
  5. Hi hunters As promised, something from me. We will start from day 14 from cracking seed, the first pics are up to 2 days before switch. In this grow we use 250w hid bulbs at different times untill switch, a mix of mh and hps however not together. Feeding will be GH powder feeding and pk 13/14. Hope you like the pics.
  6. 25 oct. First 5 seeds out of the packet After 2hrs soak 26 oct. All germinated within 24hrs Filled rockwool with coco and mykos and sowed seed Next step to place cubes in net pots after breaking thru coco Thats it for now, will be back as they say HELLO PEACE HUNTERS
  7. Alright, hopefully everyone enjoys the grow journal i'm starting that's using the Green House Seeds Powder Feeding program in my 15site Current Culture system. It's my 1st run for Flowering with the 1-part food and have previously been using Nutrilife's 3-part A/B/C Salt nutrients with good results. The reason for wanting to try the 1-part Powder Feeding for Flower was because of the success i've had with using their Mother Food. Strain wise I'll be running OG Kush that we've had in our mother bank for 2 years now with great success.There is are (2) 1000watt HPS candles in the VEG room with a 2-ton AC as backup for the warmer summer months that we're just heading into. They'll be in the VEG room for 3.5 - 4 weeks before going into the Flower Room that has (12)400watt HPS lights on the walls with shades and (8)1000watt HPS hung vertically in between each site for 12.8KW total. There's a 5ton A/C to keep the room cool with a CO2 burner. Each of the (15) site system have a www.robomatic.com PH and Food doser that keeps the water within' the set perimeters. I've notice since using the dosers the past 6 months that my PH UP & DOWN consumption has dramatically dropped. Also I've been running the water in my system for 3-4 weeks before draining/refilling. I know some people voice their concern on this but I have sized my chillers appropriately and my water temp stays 65-66degrees 24/7 with no hiccups. Also I run Current Culture "UC ROOTS" product which is their version of H2O2 to keep any unwanted bacteria and pathogens out that might find their way in. There's a float valve on the epicentre bucket that keeps the water level the same at all times that's supplied from the city water. The OG clones were cut (17) days ago from our Mother. Rooted for (10) days in a 1" rockwell cube, then transplanted into a 3" cube for (7) days. Set the PH to 6.0 and the EC to 0.8 then dropped the netpots in the system. Last step was a good foliar spray to keep and pests or issues away while the start their life in water. I've chosen the "SHORT" Flowering 1-part food for the grow. Looking forward to hearing peoples feedback on the grow
  8. Some weeks ago I started my 2014 winter garden. Im using a GrowLab GL145 145x145x200cm tent, 4 x 20L DWC Buckets and 2 HPS lights
  9. Hey Hunters Welcome to my Jungle Let me introduce u to 8 beautiful chemdogs from gh in 8 dwc buckets under 400w hps & 600w , & might also add a 250w hps during flowering. Nutrient line being used is Short flowering Powder feeding by green house & the tent being use is a 1.5 x 1.5x 2m Silver box flipped on its side Training Starts Nice and healthy One Big Trim before flowering And Now 5 days into flowering Thats it for now O _ O
  10. Plant was given to me in soil from my mate @ 3wks old from seed. So far she been rooted in my system for 2 wks straight under 12/12 and is just starting to pick up. The plan is to lst to control her height while creating more main heads. Here is mysetup: dwc - 3.5 gal bucket powered by 30l/min air pump. nutrients that will be used in this journal are canna aqua grow/bloom, hygrozyme, carboload, green sensation, and great white. lighting will be provided by my 2 84xpro penetrator.
  11. Hey what's up guys I'm back finally I'm just at the end of a skywalker kush grow from Reserva Privada and figured id through it up here for you to check out I'm running hybrid powder feed which is making these nugs crazy frosty lots of turp development I just have the one pic at the moment I'll get more when the light come on tonight
  12. Here's a picture of one of my Skywalker OG clones in week 8 of flowering. Enjoy!
  13. Starting a new Journal for a strain I haven't done before but heard lots about since I've started growing. I cleaned out my VEG room from the Chocolate Kush by DNA genetics that I just moved into one of my flower rooms, and transplanted (15) beautiful Jack Herer's in 3" rockwell cubes. For this grow I ran out of 1-part Powder Feeding nutrients, and had to start off with my old food which is Nutrilife 3-part salts. I've been using it for the past 2 weeks, and received my powder feeding order the other day and haven't decided if I'm going to switch or keep using Nutrilfe. I'll figure out in the next 2 days before I drain/refill the VEG system with fresh water and food. Hope you enjoy, and follow the progress of the Jack's *****DAY 1 VEG, Transplant Day***** After I transplanted these, I set my EC @ 0.8 for the 1st week of VEG and set my www.robomatic.com PH doser to 6.0ph to maintain throughout the VEG cycle for 4 weeks. Once I dropped them in the system, I gave them a Foliar Spray of 1litre of Water + 100ml of SM90 by Nutrilfe to start them off clean in their new environment.
  14. Hi everyone. I am new to using forums and I am sorry if this is in the wrong spot. I had seen a video on Green House Seed Co. website, the grow sessions video for El Nino, about 4:55. They say that they flush the plant on day 21 of flower with 6 liters of water. They then dry the plant out for 5 days before feeding it. My question to you is ho ould you do this with a DWC? I hope my question makes sense. Thank you very much!
  15. I have some open space so I'm gonna do the auto cup as well I've decided to run some Kalashnikova Auto with the short flowering powder feed. Sensi cal grow for growth part of grow Sensi cal bloom for the blooming Liquid carbo Load all through flowering Superior Potash (PK 9-18) for bloom booster Technaflora Ph Up Technaflora Ph Down
  16. Hey guys, I'm thinking of doing a SCROG with DWC buckets my next run, does anyone have any experience with this? What I'm concerned about is how people are changing their water because you can't move the buckets around with a SCROG net in place. I was thinking about putting 3-4 5gallon buckets on a platform in my tent so they would drain to another bucket below with the assistance of gravity. Another option was adding a separate reservoir bucket outside the tent and just adding water/nutes to that and change it when needed. Any input on anyone's SCROG DWC setup would be appreciated.
  17. Hi guys time to start my cup journal I've decided to run some GHSC White Widow with the short flowering powder feed. Sensi cal grow for growth part of grow Sensi cal bloom for the blooming Liquid carbo Load all through flowering Superior Potash (PK 9-18) for bloom booster Technaflora Ph Up Technaflora Ph Down
  18. Pineapple Chunk root porn,peace Kush
  19. From the album Last home and vegative growth

    © heathenshashoils

  20. From the album first grow

    This is where these ladies (hopefully) will live out the remainder of their lifespan. DWC hydro setup, t-5 high output fluorescent

    © heathenshashoils

  21. Hydroponic System Types Through this tutorial we are going to break down some of the more popular growing methods and styles. But first what we would like to talk about are the two core reticulation patterns , Re-Circulating , and Run to waste. This tutorial is by no means the be all and end all of solutions for the described systems , as we will cover later on there are many modifications made to every style of system and to judge one as better than the other without trying everything is simply impossible , so experiment within your comfort boundaries and see what works for you Plumbing style Re-circulating Systems In a re-circulating system the water is pumped from a main reservoir to the plant root system , the excess water and nutrients are then returned to the reservoir. Trace elements are topped up as used and regularly dumped and refreshed to keep the system stable . These sorts of systems are often popular with hydroponic growers as they are more cost effective in both water and nutrients than run to waste systems however recirculating systems are not without their downsides. Because of their nature and the methodology used to top up the nutrients as used instead of a fresh batch done all at once means that re-circulating systems tend to require more regular checking and correcting of pH , and EC levels which adds that little bit more maintenance time spent in the grow room. Failure to keep these measures under control a recirculating system can become quite unstable with figures fluctuating daily. le growing environment , however with todays trends that is simply not the case for many now and because of this , things like root rot being spread from plant to plant via their shared cycled water source is something that you have to keep an eye on. Run to Waste Systems In a run to waste system the water is pumped from a main reservoir to the plant root system , the excess water and nutrients is then simply run off into the ground , catchment tray , or waste bucket. Though a less cost effective method of growing it does provide a more constant stability as with each watering the same balance of nutrients is guaranteed without any guess work , pH fluctuation issues are also less of a problem as the water is " fresh" at each watering. It isn't without it's downsides aswell though , because of this fresh water and nutrient feed sometimes as many as 5 times a day ALLOT of water and nutrient can be potentially wasted. It is therefore up to the grower to choose a suitable method of growing that isn't going to hurt the wallet or the environment too badly , whilst still allowing for the advantages that Run to waste provides. System Types Now we have those two cleared up lets actually get into the systems , Most of what is bellow can be used in eighter a run to waste or re-circulating configuration though many as you will see through their descriptions are certainly more suited for the re-circulating methods and run to waste often requires a bit of modification to put in place ( minimal for some major for others). For simplicity's sake for the rest of the document we will be talking about the below systems in their most common state. Nutrient Film Technique/ Nutrient Flow Technique ( NFT) NFT has come a long way from it's origins , traditionally speaking NFT is a completely medium free system though these days is often done as a hybrid system sometimes implementing clay balls or rock wool to fill the channels to give more compensation for water temperature and/or nutrient fluctuation.. All these variations still mostly follow the same principles. Typically the roots sit suspended in long slightly sloped irrigation channels , with nutrient rich water introduced to the raised end allowing a natural flow over the root system in the form of a thin layer of water to the lower end of the channel where the water is returned to the reservoir to be reused again. Feed schedules are sometimes run in 15 min on 15 min off intervals however the traditional method is to keep a continual flow Helpful system design tips In order to ensure good drainage the channels need to be suitably sloped as seen in the example image below Channels must be wide enough to cater for the developing root mass that will happen through the grow Rectangle channels have a greater base surface area than cylinders allowing better access to the flow of water for the root system and because of this surface area increase are less likely to block as the root mass grows To avoid solid impurities it is advised that you run some form of in-line filter or filter material both at the point where the water comes into the system as-well as your return lines Use a heater in your reservoir to ensure a stable water temperature Suitable mediums : Clayballs, Rockwool, Lavarocks, None Advantages Low water and nutrient consumption The option to use no medium gives easy access to the root system visually Little to No medium cost Relatively easy to clean and sterilize No large amounts of medium to dispose of Disadvantages Pump failure can result in the loss of plants in a matter of hours Not suitable for plants with large taproots Quite susceptible to temperature fluctuation problems Less suitable in area's with naturally high salt levels in the water as levels will gradually increase Aeroponics Aeroponics is a method of growing in which the root system is left to freely suspend in a light proof reservoir. Nutrients and water are introduced in the form of a fine mist ( fog ) created from spray jets/nozzles and a high pressure water pump which generally operates 24 hours a day. The plants themselves sit in net pots filled with clayballs or lavarock , which are in place to give the plant an initial anchor to the system as well as keep the root area dark. Although it is considered one of the newer methods of hydroponics it is often considered the fastest growing methods when measuring the vegetative period of growth like all good things though it is not without it's downsides, and unfortunately in the case of aeroponics what could take a week to show itself and badly effect your plants in some systems could take as little as a day or two to take hold in an aeroponic setup for this reason it is not necessarily the best option for a first time grower though with certain precautions and constant monitoring and dedication even a new grower can achieve good results Helpful system design tips Ensure to use quality hardware and filters as failure to do so can mean a fast downward spiral should issues occur because of this it can also be advisable to have a backup of certain items like water and air pumps To avoid solid impurities it is advised that you run some form of in-line filter or filter material both at the point where the water comes into the system as-well as any return lines though they are less commonly found in aeroponic designs Using a heater and or chiller where suitable in your reservoir to ensure a stable water temperature can go along way to a successful grow , some areas have no need for either whilst other areas demand one or both at various times of the year to keep the water within the desired range of 22-24 degrees Celsius Make sure that you choose a suitably sized reservoir for the number of plants your looking to grow keeping in mind that you want to avoid the spray heads from becoming entangled and blocked the container also needs to be lightproof to avoid algae growth and other rot issues associated with light leaks in the root zone Food grade plastic is strongly suggested for your reservoir aswell as any tubs as they do not corrode and it is easy to attach fittings where needed to them ( it sucks pulling your hair out with a contamination issue as it's often the last thing you consider when you encounter issues at the time) Suitable mediums : Clayballs, Lavarocks, None Advantages Provides an oxygen rich environment for the roots Widely considered the most rapid growing method Low water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems Easy access to check on root system Easy to sterilize and clean the system Low medium costs No large amounts of medium to dispose of Disadvantages Pump failure can result in the loss of plants in a matter of hours particularly in warm weather Spray nozzles have a tendency to block up so regular cleaning and the use of in-line filters on your lines is strongly recommended High sensitivity to water temperature which can mean in summer that a chiller is needed in some areas in summer Need for regular water dumps and water changes are needed to avoid rapid occurring buildups Not really a method recommended for first time growers as issues can occur rapidly leaving less time to fix the problem Flood & Drain ( Ebb & Flow ) Much like NFT and other methods for that matter Flood and Drain has come a long way from it's origins with people adapting all sorts of styles to achieve the main principle of flooding a tray and allowing it to drain out. For this tutorial though we will stick to the traditional implementation and allow you to work from there. One area where flood and drain stands out as different is that in many methods is the fact that water and nutrients are introduced to the root system from beneath instead of from the top allowing the root zone to flood to a predetermined and controlled level and is then allowed to drain back into the reservoir. This is all controlled by a pump, timer and a drain/overflow that run on an alternating cycle , the pump runs for whatever period of time you allocate for it allowing it to reach the desired water level , with the overflow handling any "extra water" that may go through in that time and then the system is given enough time to drain out before refilling again. Helpful system design tips Ensure to use quality hardware and filters as failure to do so can mean a fast downward spiral should issues occur because of this it can also be advisable to have a backup of certain items like water and air pumps you certainly have more time than with some systems though it's not advised to run the gauntlet in my experience Step one size up in diameter for your overflow than you have in place for your drain , this will ensure that even with the pressure of the pump pushing through water if anything goes wrong your system won't overflow It is advisable to use some form of netting or protection around your drains and inlets to avoid medium and or roots blocking up the zones Ensure to use filters on your feed lines to keep the system free from waste solids A centrifugal pump is recommended if you intend to use the same hole for your intake as your drain the use of other pump styles without some form of pressure release will cause them to lockup or break from ware, Ensure to allow suitable medium volume for the desired plant/s sizes Suitable mediums : Clayballs, Lavarocks Advantages The constant flooding action helps to avoid a rapid build up of salts in the medium bed Provides an oxygen rich environment for the roots as stale air is pushed away when flooding and fresh drawn in as the draining occurs Lower water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems and some other hydroponic systems Disadvantages Unable to easily inspect roots for issues Pump or power failure can mean loss of your crop over as little as a day or two Higher medium costs than many hydro systems as there is a bed to generally fill Satellite Systems Satellite systems are one of your more flexible medium wise and many people have added their own variations to the basic concept but like in the other cases we have discussed most lead back to the same basic rules and principles . The system itself is made up of a reservoir and any required number of separate pots which are what are referred to as your satellites. Your the first of your pots within each "satellite" are top fed and contain many drain-holes in their base to allow proper drainage , Each of these pots are sat inside of a second pot which is used to catch the excess water and nutrients , returning them to the reservoir via a drainage hole/line which relies on gravity to take the water away because of this it is important to elevate your pots from the highest reservoir water level. With the variation of mediums used for this style of system it is impossible to give a blanket recommendation on the regularity of feeding, some mediums will require a 15 minute period every few hours , whilst others require only a few minutes a day. The best idea is to get a recommendation from someone who has walked that path before and can maybe give you at least a starting point for experimenting. Helpful system design tips Use quality pots and other components, cheap pots often crack when drilling and or don't properly support grommets. Cheap grommets leak or have trouble holding a seal over time , and the last thing you need is a huge mess over a dollar or two more spent on each part Elevate your pots above the water level of the main reservoir this will ensure water is returned and not flow back in to flood your pots Build your system with slack in the lines as it makes it easier to reposition individual plants Using in-line filters for your feed and dump lines ensures that no gunk gets into the watering heads to block up the nozzles Instead of drilling your hole at the very base of the pot , putting it on the side an inch or so up allows for a small pool of emergency water should the system fail for some reason ( it can also help to add an air-stone to this emergency pool of water) Unless you are using just perlite or clayballs in your pots it is advised to add a 1-2 inch layer of clayballs or lavarock to the bottom of each pot , this is the area that most commonly builds up with pools of water during regular feed schedules and having that layer there ensures that it drys out with the rest of the medium to be ready for the next feed. Suitable mediums : Pretty much anything except for soil and rock wool Advantages Very flexible system as pots can be added and taken away as needed without disturbing the remaining pots in the system Larger pots can be used for plants requiring more root space whilst being able to simultaneously run smaller pots when suitable Easy to reposition individual plants Each pot keeps each plant in a more isolated environment meaning things like root diseases bugs etc don't spread too easily or quickly Even with pump failures you are given a fair amount of time to realize and fix the issue ( anywhere from a few days to a week depending on the medium choice ) Lower water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems and some other hydroponic systems Disadvantages Unable to easily inspect roots for issues Relying solely on top feeding to supply nutrients and water , tends to channel the water downward through the medium where density is lowest which can leave the side top area more dried out Higher medium costs than many hydro systems Deep Water Culture / Bubbler ( DWC ) There is quite a variation to the types of DWC systems out there, some are designed as tub systems with several plants sharing the same tub , whilst others are more like a satellite system layout with one control bucket and as many satellite buckets as is required , ( for the sake of less confusion we will be referring to tubs & buckets as buckets throughout the rest of this section ) . Despite there small difference they all follow the same basic rule of thumb, like aeroponics a net pot is used to suspend the plants roots into the buckets however where things are different in DWC is that the roots are left to "swim" in the water inside the bucket itself instead of being sprayed as a mist which naturally means that each bucket contains a higher level of water ( see linked example system) . To effectively achieve this and to keep levels of oxygen up in the water an air stone is placed in the bucket , this keeps each plant's root system in an oxygen rich environment allowing it to optimize growth and food usage. Usage of the water all depends on the system design , in some designs your control bucket is simply used to top-up water that is used in the tubs doing so passively , where as in other systems a pump is used to actively push water into each bucket , in these configurations a drain pipe is used to push any overflow back to the reservoir. The second of these methods is often preferred as it provides a constant mix of fresh water to the roots and where a chiller or heater is going to be used the system is kept in balance instead of heating up or cooling down in dead spots Helpful system design tips Planning out your system is a key to headache free growing , plan for things like the need to isolate a bucket from the system or temporarily cut off flow to area's should maintenance be needed , this can be achieved by using taps. Ensure your system will not drain or flood in area's should there be a temporary power loss or hardware failure Ensure to use quality hardware and filters as failure to do so can mean a fast downward spiral should issues occur because of this it can also be advisable to have a backup of certain items like water and air pumps To avoid solid impurities it is advised that you run some form of in-line filter or filter material both at the point where the water comes into the system as-well as any return lines though they are less commonly found in aeroponic designs Using a heater and or chiller where suitable in your reservoir to ensure a stable water temperature can go along way to a successful grow , some areas have no need for either whilst other areas demand one or both at various times of the year to keep the water within the desired range of 22-24 degrees Celsius Make sure that you choose suitably sized tubs for the number of plants your looking to grow keeping in mind that you want to avoid any drains or water intakes from becoming blocked the container also needs to be lightproof to avoid algae growth and other rot issues associated with light leaks in the root zone. Food grade plastic is strongly suggested for your reservoir aswell as any tubs as they do not corrode and it is easy to attach fittings where needed to them ( it sucks pulling your hair out with a contamination issue as it's often the last thing you consider when you encounter issues at the time). Suitable mediums : Clayballs, Lavarocks, None Advantages Provides an oxygen rich environment for the roots One of the most rapid growing methods Low water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems Easy access to check on root system Easy to sterilize and clean the system Low medium costs No large amounts of medium to dispose of Disadvantages Pump failure in an incorrectly designed system can result in the loss of plants in a matter of hours particularly in warm weather, however if planned out properly you are able to put in a few days to a week safeguard in most conditions High sensitivity to water temperature which can mean in summer that a chiller is needed in some areas in summer Need for regular water dumps and water changes are needed to avoid rapid occurring buildups Run to Waste Run to waste basically describes soil culturing , water and nutrients are introduced to the plant and the excess run off is allowed to run into a waste bucket , directly into the ground or a tray of some form . It is not however returned to the system for re-using. Medium choice is often something with a bit more water retention than traditional hydroponic systems though there is certainly some cross over , most common are things like soil or coco . Because of this water retention feeds are done less frequently allowing the plants to use up the water they are given between each feed. This also provides a lengthly buffer should something go wrong with the system , as you will have more time to notice and repair any issues that may occur. The use of fresh water and nutrients at each watering also means for a more stable system and no guess work when it comes to topping up your nutrients or adjusting pH , regular flushes are recommended though if you keep your feeds at the correct pH levels your less likely to experience pH fluctuation in the medium itself. It isn't without it's downsides aswell though , because of this fresh water and nutrient feed sometimes as many as 5 times a day ALLOT of water and nutrient can be potentially wasted. It is therefore up to the grower to choose a suitable method of growing that isn't going to hurt the wallet or the environment too badly , whilst still allowing for the advantages that Run to waste provides. Helpful system design tips Correct medium choice is a key to minimizing some of the downsides to this style of system. Pick something with decent water retention such as soil or coco The use of pot trays ( saucers ) is recommended to minimize wastage and prevent ground contamination it also provides a dual service of allowing the plants to wick up the excess water as needed sdfdsf sdfsdf sdf Organically enriching your medium with things like worm castings etc, instead of using traditional salt based nutrients alone can go a long way to saving on supplies , particularly on any larger scale project Suitable mediums : Soil , Coco , Perlite , Rock wool , Clay Balls ( basically anything but some mediums are simply not cost effective to use with this sort of system ) Advantages pH and EC is easily kept stable with the constant use of fresh solution Plant receives fresh water at each feed Contamination risk is lower due to water not being recirculated back through the system The choice of using mediums with a higher water holding capacity allows for more time should some sort of failure occur to pumps or timers etc Disadvantages Mediums with a higher water retention are more prone to over-watering Prone to salt build up ( risk can be minimized by periodic flushing of the medium with fresh water) Commercial use is being outlawed in some area's due to the run off waste potentially damaging to the ground it runs off into his can be minimized by system and choice in trace element supply methods , on a larger scale often organically enriching your medium is far cheaper than bottled salt based nutrients ) Wick System The wick growing method is considered to be the most basic and easiest to setup hydroponic growing system. There are many styles of wicks but they all surround a principle of having a wick to automatically draw water up as needed by the plant. As shown in picture (a) bellow you can create a wick growing system by drilling out a hole in the bottom of your pot, and placing an absorbent rope through it hanging down into your nutrient reservoir. Water and nutrients are provided by the wick to the medium on a needs basis which allows your cannabis plant to feed as required with the wick automatically re-hydrating the medium as it needs. Wick systems are generally setup using one of the more absorbent growing mediums like a perlite/vermiculite mix, coco or soil etc. The the wick does it's job quite slowly and relies on medium hydrating medium so when attempting to use mediums such as clayballs , or straight perlite you will find a very uneven hydration pattern which will effect feeding. Another popular wick growing system is simply to use the growing medium alone as your wick; this wick growing method can be found in practically every self watering pots on the market which implement it as seen in Image ( above. Helpful system design tips Use suitable medium to ensure proper drawing of water from reservoir. This also gives you a wider time frame to catch problems should any occur. Ensure Water solution is properly aerated by the use of an air pump in your reservoir. If using self watering pots many recommend also adding a stone into each pots catchment area where possible Flush medium regularly to avoid salt build up ( this is a rare occasion water your wick system from the top ) Avoid ropes made from synthetic materials such as nylon as they don't absorb water or salt based nutrients aswell as most natural fabrics like cotton or hemp Suitable mediums: perlite / vermiculite mix, coco, rock wool or soil Advantages No need for pumps as wick will handle the automatic feeding Low Maintenance Low water and nutrient consumption Minimal setup and running cost Easy to clean and sterilize Disadvantages Less suitable in area's with naturally high salt levels in the water as levels will gradually increase With little to check on and a total reliability on the wick doing it's job when problems do happen they are often not seen for a while , this can be minimized by simply getting in your room to check on things more than just to top up your plants written by: Pure images by: Oz Copied ans Pasted from "Cannaversity" - http://cannaversity.com/cannaversity/article.php?id=100 Peace Lams
  22. Does anyone have expereince with recirculating deep water culture? I currently run a 20 site setup that combines water flow, dwc and a resevoire to keep the maintainance more managable. My water pump is a 1250 gph sump pump that runs water through a 1/4 hp water chiller to keep 69 degree water. The plant sites sit about 2 feet bove the pump/res so that gravity can take care of the water return. In each site is an air stone as well as in the res to keep maximum O2 in the water. The system runs 24/7 to stimulate the roots and keep the water and nutes fresh. I have to use H2O2 on a regular basis so that root rot doesn't take hold and destroy the plant. If anyone has a better way to fight off root rot other than H2O2 I am open to all options? Any questions, comment or advise are welcome, please enjoy the pics!

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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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