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Hey there, 

im really new to Growing and so on.Im planning to grow this September some Autoflowering Seeds from Royalqueenseeds, the Strains would be: 

Easy Bud

Royal AK Automatic

- Royal Creamatic

- Royal Cheese Automatic

So im thinking about putting them in a 4-5Gallon Plant Container when they germinated.

Do you think that would work out or do i need something in extra? 

 

Im thankful for any kind of Help =) 

I live in Germany, 

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@HimaGold/s/Train/er Im glad to hear that i took a nice choice there and by Outdoor you mean growing them in my Yard instead of Plant Containers on my Balcony? 

That's sadly not possible, if that is what you meant and i'd have a Question.

After the Seeds germinate and i put them in the Container with the potting Soil, do i just start to Water them directly or should i wait and are nutriens necessary? 

Thanks ! :)

 

& I'll put some Pictures when i have the Seeds and have them germinated already =) 

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Hey CookieGrow,

You are in Germany and planning to start an outdoor balcony grow in September.  Hmmmm...

Sadly, your timing is not optimal.  You might be successful to germinate and vegg the plants, but there simply isn't enough time remaining to bring the plants to mature blooms before the winter frost destroys the plants.

If you are to be successful, you will have to provide indoor lighting and temperature controls in order to be successful.

 

OK, I see that you are already germinating the seeds, so you are already committed.  So, I will offer you the following advice:

1.  After germination, it is usually better to use a smaller pot (~1 liter) in which to allow the plant to develop its initial rootball.  This makes your job easier, watering is easier to control and you avoid the problems of ungleichmäßiges watering that occurs when the mass of soil is unnecessarily too large.  The smaller pot allows easier inspection of the progress of the roots as well.    When the roots reach the bottom of that smaller pot, THEN the plants can be transplanted to the larger pot.

2.  As I indicated above, you will need to provide for indoor lighting in order to continue the life of the plant after the outdoor temperatures become too cool.  In general, Cannabis cannot tolerate temperatures under 15°C for long periods, and a temperature under 5-7°C is almost always deadly.  I don't know whether your seed supplier had given you specific grow-time parameters, so if not, you should expect that the Vegg time will be about 4 weeks to 6 weeks.  That brings your Vegg-time bis zu middle-to-end of October, when there will certainly be frost.

3.  Acceptable lighting for indoor Vegg can be any of the following:  CFL-Energiesparlampen, Leuchtstofflampen (in either case, Cool White offers the best spectrum for Vegg phase), or Metal Halide (MH) lamps(Vorteil- strong lighting.  Nachteile- erhörte Strom-Aufnahme & teuer) or LED-grow lamps with blue-spectrum (Vorteil- wenigere Strom-Aufnahme pro Lumens.  Nachteil- teuer).

4.  For the Bloom Phase in late October bis Ende November, you will definitely need an indoor set-up.  Lighting for the Bloom Phase should have less blue spectrum and more red/yellow spectrum.  CFL-Energiesparlampen, Leuchtstofflampen (in either case, Warm White offers the best spectrum for Bloom phase), or High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps(Vorteil- strong lighting.  Nachteile- erhörte Strom-Aufnahme & teuer) or LED-grow lamps with red/yellow-spectrum (Vorteil- wenigere Strom-Aufnahme pro Lumens.  Nachteil- teuer).

5.  In answer to your question about Nutrients:  The first week or two after germination, the plant needs only clean water and whatever comes in the soil.  As long as the plant has its cotylins (the round baby-leaves) then the plant needs very little nutrients from the soil, except of course water.  You should however be adjusting the pH of the water to about 6,2.  I don't know what soil you are using, so it is difficult to offer any definitiv advice.  But basically, if the soil is advertised to contain ADDED fertilizer (such as with Miracle Grow soil), then it is best not to add any fertilizer. 

If the soil is basically without nutrients, then after the cotylins have dried out or fallen off, then you can begin to add fertilizer to the feeding water.  Start always with solutions at half strength or less compared to the manufacturers instructions.

 

If you wish to see a really good presentation on how to build a small indoor grow, watch on YouTube "Mr Green - I Grow Chronic".  It comes in 6 parts, each about 15 minutes long.  My grow is based on this presentation, and it works.

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Point 1. would be correct for "normal" photoperiod dependent plants. However, the strains in question are autoflowering and as such they are best started in the final size pot where they'll be for the rest of their life cycle. The reason being simple: they have limited veg time so you can't afford to wait for them to get rootbound in a smaller pot (which would stress them and therefore slow down the growth) before you repot. 

A good and short auto growing guide can be found at RQS website.

If you want an extended guide that explains everything from the basics, read this.

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Gordon,

I understand what you mean, but maybe I didn't explain myself fully enough.   :smoke:

 

I prefer not to commit "4 to 5 Gallons" of growth medium to a seed that hasn't yet shown me that it will germinate and survive to the development of its first true leaves and the initial roots.  :smoke: CookieGrow is starting four different strains, and I don't know how many of each strain.  I germinate my seeds in wet paper towels and transfer them to the growth medium when the shoot is between 1 to 10 mm long.  :smoke: Because I vegg in a tent, my space is limited, especially in the vertical.  So my choice to use a smaller starter pot is a matter of convenience to me.  Additionally, over many years past, :smoke::smoke: I had heard from other growers(not necessarily Cannabis growers), that it is best not to put a small plant into a large pot.  Their reasons for that if explained, I have forgotten.  :smoke: Maybe other readers who know the reason for that advice could re-enlighten me.

:smoke:

I said "rootball", :smoke: but that was not what I meant.  What I meant was the development of the roots only until the very first root tip(s) shows itself through one of the holes in the bottom of the starter pot.

And the starter pots that I use for soil are usually 1/2 Liter to one Liter in size, so it doesn't take very long :smoke: for the first root tip to show itself.

 

But, you may be right.  If the Auto-strain is one of those that results in a short-lived plant, then maybe one doesn't have the luxury of planning for a transplant.   :smoke:

I have grown only one Auto-strain so far- Kannabia White Domina Auto :smoke: , and it did not seem to exhibit any problems with the transplant, and it grew to a similar size as its tent-partners- Lemon Skunk and Jack Herer.  But it did, in fact, at the end of its flowering phase, seem to just give up the ghost, and that forced me to harvest her earlier than I was hoping for.

So, this calls for a side-by-side test of an Auto strain, some planted in starter pots and some planted directly in final pots, to test this hypothesis.

By the way, thank you for posting the links to the growing guides. :smoke:

 

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Thanks a lot for the Help! 

I will grow from each Seed 1 Plant, they are feminized and i decided to grow them indoors, the only thing im struggling a bit with at the moment is choosing the right LED's because normally a 50W LED should be enough, or not? 

I mean they equal around 150W of a normal Light Bulb and im planning to use 10-11Liter Plant Containers for the Seeds now so i hope that's big enough and not too small either 

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On 9/21/2016 at 0:08 PM, Cannabissapean said:

I prefer not to commit "4 to 5 Gallons" of growth medium to a seed that hasn't yet shown me that it will germinate and survive to the development of its first true leaves and the initial roots.

 

Not much of a commitment really. In case your plant dies, you can still use the medium. 3 gal is optimal for most autos. XXL versions (Think Different or Think Big by DP) or so-called "3rd generation autos" by Dinafem would obviously need bigger pots. You can calculate that from breeder's seed -> harvest times (usually it's like 1-2 weeks more than they claim).

If your seed has cracked using your wet towel method, you don't have to wait for the tap root to show. You can be sure the plant will grow out provided you have a sterile medium and don't sow too deep.

On 9/21/2016 at 0:08 PM, Cannabissapean said:

I had heard from other growers (not necessarily Cannabis growers), that it is best not to put a small plant into a large pot.  Their reasons for that if explained, I have forgotten.

 

The reason is it's easier to over-water. The plant also doesn't use the space of the pot as effectively compared to re-potting several times. But this goes for photos.

On 9/21/2016 at 0:08 PM, Cannabissapean said:

What I meant was the development of the roots only until the very first root tip(s) shows itself through one of the holes in the bottom of the starter pot.

 

That's already too late for autos as this will slow down the growth even if you don't damage the root tip.

On 9/21/2016 at 0:08 PM, Cannabissapean said:

I have grown only one Auto-strain so far...

 

There, you said it.

On 9/21/2016 at 0:08 PM, Cannabissapean said:

So, this calls for a side-by-side test of an Auto strain, some planted in starter pots and some planted directly in final pots, to test this hypothesis.

 

No need, it's been done many times already and therefore it's no hypothesis but a proved fact.

On 9/21/2016 at 0:08 PM, Cannabissapean said:

By the way, thank you for posting the links to the growing guides.

 

You're welcome, there are many auto growing guides around. These are just two I read and know they provide credible info.

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