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Auto Seed Run and Photo's


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What?  You mean bell-bottoms aren't in style now?

 

I really shouldn't talk about the military, might be too revealing.

 

First toke:  at 18,5 years of age with 2 newly found friends (they are siblings) on top of a giant limestone rock on the side of a mountain near where I lived back then.  I even remember the exact date (not saying).

 

Back in those days we were told that what we were buying was some of the following:  Panama Red, Acupulco Gold, Thai-stick (my fav), Colombian and Mexican.  Maybe I have forgotten a couple other names, but I never heard of any Strain-names.  Apparently, or we were led to believe that, all of it was imported from those places and the names were only to indicate where they came from and their approximate color or form of preparation for shipment.  Every now and then a friend would have a chunk of golden-brown hash, but I didnt know from where that came.

 

Sometimes it was really good weed, and often it had seeds in it.  Sometimes it reeked of gasoline or some other strange smells (evidence of various smuggling techniques).  It's too bad that I didn't save those seeds to try to grow them (until a couple years later, failing), but back then, not knowing any better, if we got really desperate between bags, we would even try to smoke the seeds, LOL.  Really too bad, since nowadays, those first three are highly sought-after seeds.

 

I guess that those original three might compare somewhat with today's strains, but since the rise of specialized breeding in Amsterdam and California and British Columbia, today, the potency seems to be better and there is a wider pallette of flavours.  And there is little to compare to the joy of harvesting and smoking your own weed if you have good genetics and you've done it right.

 

Seriously?  Are you sure that bell-bottoms aren't in style any more?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lol..If your wearing them then their still in style! 

Ah man! I'm so glad you told me not to trash the mutants! You saved a strain for me I was going to loose! They are starting to snap out of it and the GSC gave me 3 shoots! The BCA is small but is recovering nicely! I don't care for anything from the auto's other than producing seeds! The 2 photos are looking rootbound and need to be transplanted, but before I do I wanted your opinion! Is it worth it to put these two plants in a 5 gal in order to save some soil or just do two 5 gal for each photo? Would it be that big of a difference if grown in two separate pots under a 300w led?

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I started smoking cannabis at 13yrs old..What I rember buying was 

Jamaican Red

Orange crush

Dro

Watermelon haze

Strawberry haze

Combud

And I had smoked 2 different versions of Chocolate thai, one I believe was the real one because it smelled,tasted on exhale like Chocolate. The other one I purchased years later looked like what I bought originally and smelled the same as well but did not taste like chocolate on exhale. I did keep the seeds from the bag at the time and planted them but they all died because I knew nothing about growing back then.

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If you want the maximum yield per plant, then each plant should have its own 5-gal pot.

 

If your grow-space is limited and you don't stop dropping beans, then you may be forcing yourself to put multiple plants in each pot.

 

If the plants have crowded roots, then they cannot grow to their full potential.

 

If the plants crowd each other's leaves and branches, you might get diseases related to lack of circulation through the foliage - like mold.

 

Because they are able to hide among overcrowded foliage, pests like spider-mites or caterpillars can gain a foothold.  Some pests like to hide their eggs among overcrowded foliage.

 

Having each plant in its own pot makes it easier to separate the plants during pruning, cleaning, LSTing and inspecting the plant. 

 

If they are grown together, their branches will intertwine, making pruning, cleaning, LSTing and inspecting the plant more difficult.  Also, if one plant develops disease or pests, then because they cannot be separated, the second plant is usually doomed to suffer as well.

 

Discipline, don't drop more beans than you have place to grow them.

 

Of course, if the tent gets too crowded, I guess you could start setting some of the plants on sunny window-sills.  If you run out of sunny window space, then you could set some of the largest specimens in great big pots out in that sunny spot on the front porch next to the front door and the mail-box.

 

 

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Sorry, the mix will still start to go bad anyway.  If you use them within a day or two, then it should be OK, but if you store it for a week or two or longer, not so good.

 

Basically, mixing the nutes into water starts a little clock.  Chemical reactions begin and the nutrients are only useful for a given amount of time.  The nutrients begin reacting with each other.  The water and air act as catalysts, further enabling those reactions and the development of undesired salts. 

 

You might see the evidence of this when you see some gooey cloudy junk collecting in the bottom of the reservoir and a yukky film on the surface of the water.  They weren't visible when the batch was fresh; those are the precipitate salts and other undesireables.  Sure, you can stir them into the water, but it doesn't help; now they are just contaminates dissolved into the water. 

 

The best policy is to mix-up only what you will put into the reservoir at that moment, (or what you will pour onto the soil at that moment).  This is where you have to exercise discipline and plan what you are about to do.  Dialing in your grow;  sometimes it means dialing yourself in too.  I assume that you do have the manufacturer's nutrient-mixing-chart right there beside your nutrients at all times...

 

You can go ahead and use what you saved, but if it has already 'gone off', most likely you will notice a slow-down in growth or development for those weeks that the old solution is in play.  If that happens, then you need to flush away the salts:  If in soil, let the pots dry-out a number of days, then flush with pH'd water 3x volume of the pots, let them dry good again, then resume with fresh nutes at proper pH.  If in hydroponics, simply throw out the old solution, re-fill with pH'd water, run for a couple hours, throw that out, then mix and pH a fresh batch of nutes.

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Will take your word on the nute thing and not even waste time attempting it! I did take your advice and transplant the photos in their own separate pots! I was good on room until the transplant on the photos in 5 gal pots ,all my smaller pots where used on the autos and with the humidifier in their everything is crowded. What sucks is i can only fit 4 saucers in their and when i watered last night it floods the tent and I have to take everything out and dry the bottom. So I'm thinking just water the autos first let them drain move them out and then water photos using the saucers let drain and then move everything back..smh! I If the photos where in a smaller pot I would be ok. Definitely not popping anymore until these are finished. What I did notice is 3 of 4 autos started to preflower..the bca I was worried about is one of those that did preflower and is still smaller than the rest. Other than that one all the others look good.

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On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 4:52 AM, Cannabissapean said:

Of course, if the tent gets too crowded, I guess you could start setting some of the plants on sunny window-sills.  If you run out of sunny window space, then you could set some of the largest specimens in great big pots out in that sunny spot on the front porch next to the front door and the mail-box.

 

 

Lol

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Well, I would say within 2 weeks AFTER pre-flower...

Being that upon flowering, autos start a virtual internal clock to their demise, I would say that that is probably a good idea.  But that is only if you see the white hairs (pistils).  If the pistils have not yet appeared, then it is too early to pollinate.  If you see only 4 or 5 hairs, wait a couple days.  When you see a good number of hairs covering a bud-site (10 or 12 or so), then definitely pollinate.  The pollinated hairs will shrivel and brown over the next 3 or 4 days.  If after a week, you notice more hairs have appeared, then pollinate again.  It cannot hurt.  When the plant stops producing pistils, then she is now concentrating her energy in developing the seeds.  And if your goal is the seeds, DON'T harvest too soon.  Allow the plant to continue living until she begins to die.  That way, she will have deposited all her energies and nutrients into her seeds.  This will give the seeds the highest germination rate possible. (After you dry the buds and harvest the seeds out of them, you'll still get some decent grind for smoke, or at least usable plant material for Cannabutter or extractions.)

If you harvest the plant too soon because you wanted the plant material, then the seeds will suffer because they did not mature sufficiently.

 

Remember, in nature, the plant produces the best seeds when she lives to full maturity and releases her seeds after her death.

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I'm hoping a 2 +month veg for the photos will be good enough for the structure of the mainlining. I was hoping for 8 colas each plant that doesn't take over my space with the next 4 autos that go in for breeding when these 4 current auto's are finished, but I doubt it and am thinking 4 colas per plant witch sounds more realistic when thinking of the 8 cola structure.

Also canna..with pushing the auto's until they decide to die..how many more months does this add. I was hoping to be done everything by the end of 2017.

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I know dealing with these autos will get easier..i think the reason why the gsc and bca where stunted is something to do with growing them in light warrior and that it dries out to quick..lesson learned and will be corrected with the next autos. The Pka and jma  are in promix and holds water better and with these two I do see myself getting better from previous grows done in that same medium. So thats a plus! 

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I have used many different methods, and I am happy with mainlining and supercropping techniques.  The results are great, more colas and an even canopy, just as indicated in the various tutorials.  Here's a nice mainlining tutorial on-line.

 

http://www.growweedeasy.com/mainlining-nugbuckets

 

But for the Autos, be careful not to choose cultivation methods that require excessive time to recover, because the Auto plant might not have enough remaining lifespan to sufficiently recover and expand its vegetation before it decides to flower.  If it cannot develop enough vegetation before it starts flowering, then it might not have enough vegetation to provide sufficient energy to the flowering effort.

 

You won't have to wait that much longer for the Auto-plant to reach its end-days.  Once the pollination occurs and after the final pistils have shrivelled, if you must have the lamp-space for other plants, go ahead and remove the pollinated Autos from the bloom tent and allow them to continue living toward their last days just sitting below any daylight window.  They'll continue to develop their seeds even with that lower amount of light.  Remember, that's basically what happens in nature for the matured weed.  The diminishing light is another indication to the plant that it is heading into its harvest time.  This also frees up your bloom tent so that you can clean the walls free of pollen before putting the next girls in there, girls that you probably want to keep as sensimilla (unpollinated).

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