Cannabissapean

Purple Chem OG by NVclosetmedgrower, a grow from germination to harvest/drying/curing

11 posts in this topic

On Youtube, NVclosetmedgrower has created a fabulous 7-Part Video Growjournal, very good, very detailed with excellent grow-tips throughout the life of a cannabis plant (“Purple Chem OG”) from Germination all the way through Harvest/Drying/Curing. 

 

This presentation is so well done, explanations so very easy to understand, I find his videos are just the thing for beginners as well as for some experienced growers.  I feel certain that even experienced growers will hear ideas from him that you hadn’t thought of before.  He is clever and logical.  If you have ever had trouble in your grows or if you want grow-tips to avoid so many common mistakes, Watch This 7-Part Series!

 

I have liked his Series so much that I decided to outline each part for you below.

 

Here are the titles and the current links to his presentation.  Take notes; you’ll thank me later.  All the following is provided for informational purposes only.  Your results may vary, and the risk for you and your plants is entirely yours.  The links are found at the bottom of each post, after the outline.

 

(If the links are disabled, you can try to search Youtube for the titles to see if it has been re-posted under different links.  Normally, if you can find one of them, you will have also found the whole Series.  Or you can search for the author – NVclosetmedgrower.)

 

I hope that you enjoy the Series.

 

OK, Here we go:

 

 

 

How to Grow Part 1, Seed Germination.

The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline.

 

-Step 1: Hydrogen Peroxide (2-3 drops) in RO-water in Solo Cup for initial 24 hours in cup.

 

-Step 2: Paper towel until Taproot extends

 

-Step 3: Germination and transfer to Initial Cup of Soil

 

-Soil-less Mix Description: Jiffy Seedstarter Mix with 20% Perlite, consisting of: Peat Moss, Vermiculite and Dolomite Lime, flushed with 2 cups of 5,5pH RO-water to reduce the alkaline effects of the Dolomite. One drop of CloneX(a cloning gel containing Vitamin B1 and Butyric Acid) applied 1 inch deep under where the seed/w-taproot will be placed into the cup.  Maintain 70+% Humidity using a simple plastic bag over the cup.  (A substitute for CloneX is Schultz “TakeRoot”, a powder which contains 0,1% Indole-3-butyric Acid.  Obviously, one would need to determine whether a powder or a gel would be preferable depending on the method of its use.  I have both onhand.)

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYIYFyFNMFg&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71

 

 

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How to Grow Part 2, Seedling Stage.

The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline.

 

-When Seedling stands or emerges above the soil, then that is Day 1 of Seedling Stage.

 

-How to (not to) handle sticking seed-cases (Seed Pods).

 

-Use a spraybottle so as not to disturb the seed and soil.  Use of RO-water.  When the first true leaves open-up, the humidity protection can be removed (that is, given that you do have reasonable control of your humidity in the ambient grow environment).

 

-Light Theory and how it relates to growth:  Photoperiod explained, Light Spectrum and affects on the plant explained, Lighting Lumens explained.

 

-He uses Cool-white Fluorescent and CFL-spirals in Vegg, and he uses HPS for Flowering.  (Cannabissapean recommends that lamps with extra blue spectra should be avoided for the flowering area, rather, lamps with extra red/orange/yellow spectra are more suitable for flowering because these spectra mimic the autumnal spectra better.  Lamps with blue spectra are more appropriate for the Vegg area because blue-to-UV spectra strongly encourage vegetative growth.)

 

-Day 6 of Seedling Stage, First watering is just RO-water, no nutes! (for first 10 days or so).  Lamp-to-seedling distances and “seedling-stretch” discussed.

 

-Day 10 of Seedling Stage, still feeding with only RO-water! (Exception: Because RO-water contains no calcium, he adds a very scant amount of CalMag to 75-100 PPM.  If you are using tapwater and some other natural sources of water, you may not need to add any Calcium.  Measure the PPM or EC of your base water so you can judge whether it has sufficient ions or minerals.  Calling your water authority may yield useful information.)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEGxut77eCo&index=2&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71

 

 

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How to Grow Part 3, Early Veg.

The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline.

 

-Day 13 of Vegg, 4th node, today is first feeding with Nutrients.

 

-He uses General Hydroponics Flora-Series: FloraGrow(N), FloraMicro(micro-mins), FloraBloom(P-K).  (Europe has a comparable Nutrition-Series called Advanced Hydroponics.  Do not apply dosage-rates from General Hydroponics when using Advanced Hydroponics products.  Always consult a manufacturer’s dosage schedule for their product, and experiment with variations at your own risk.)

 

-Botanicare CalMag(+)(0-0-3).

 

-Day 17 of Vegg, transplanting into 1-gal. An intermediate pot using Pro-mix with Mychorrhizae will be used.

 

-Non-sulfured Blackstrap Molasses (1/2 teaspoon (tsp) per Gallon) is used to support the bacteria colony in the soil.  Teaspoon = tsp.  Tablespoon = Tsp.  They are not the same.

 

- CalMag to 200 PPM, pH to 5,8.

 

-Sexing the plant is explained.

 

-Reason for the Intermediate pot is logically explained.

 

-Day 18 of Vegg (not Flower), Micro-topping explained and demonstrated perfectly (in this case, just above the 5th true-leaf symmetric node).

 

-Day 20 of Vegg, pot is light-weight, needs feeding.  Begin transition to more aggressive-growth nutrient-pattern (ratios, but not full strength), (per Table, aggr.-grwth = ratio321NPK), 0,5 tsp non-sulphured Molasses, 270PPM, pH to 5,8.

 

-Day 24 of Vegg, Plant inspected for deficiencies:  Mild Nitrogen toxicity explained and shown.  Light-burn injury is shown.  Two new top-leaders are looking healthy.  Plant is judged “almost ready for full-strength feedings”.  “Purpling of stems” is shown and possible Mag-defficiency explained.

 

-First minor flush:  Prepare RO-water with a volume 3-times the size of the pot(here 2,5 to 3 gallons).  Adjust to pH 5,7.  Relationship of pH and “Take-Up” is explained (“Lock-Out” explained).  Light feeding planned for end-of-flush and justification explained. 

 

-Catch-Pan used here to test successively the run-off PPM (here, 378) to judge the rate at which the plant has been consuming its nutrients, and to check the run-off pH (here 6,26 pH(corrected)) to roughly calculate the pH of the soil (Simple Formula---> Average of the pH of the Flushing-water5.7 and the pH of the Run-off water6.26 in the first flush = ~Soil pH~5.98).  Continue successive flushing and making PPM measurements in order to ensure progress of flushing(removal of salts) until target of <100PPM (or 50 to 80 PPM) is achieved.

 

Discussion of doses of previously discussed Flora-Series Grow/Micro/Bloom nutrients, CalMag and Molasses, plus newly-introduced Vegg additives: “Silicon+” (a liquid silicon designed as a supplement for plants), and NPK Industries“Multiply” (a Urea-based Nitrogen supplement – Caution: difficult to flush-out, use sparingly).  A solution of volume equal to Intermediate pot is mixed (not full-strength, 300PPM, at pH 5,8) and poured in order to drive-out and supplant the weaker flush-water in the pot with this new solution as completely as possible.

-Return to Vegg tent.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WSAiDmIjo0&index=3&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71

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How to Grow Part 4, Mid to Late Veg.

The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline.

 

-Day 28 of Vegg, next feeding: Judging by how the plant looks, solution mixed: CalMag increased, 3-Part-Flora-Series (remained same strength), “Multiply” sparingly increased, and Silicon+ increased, and ¼ tsp Molasses, resulting in 500PPM and set at 5,8 pH.

 

-Discussion of control measures during mid-to-late Vegg:  Techniques discussed: “Intentional root-binding to cause stunting”, and training techniques, “LST(Light-Stress-Training) and “Super-cropping”.

 

(Caution from Cannabissapean regarding Root-Binding:  Root-Binding a photoperiod plant will normally produce the desired stunting without other major problems (except sometimes, hermying).  But if you root-bind an Autoflowering plant, that usually results in the unexpected start of flowering, and the lifespan count-down begins;  an Autoflowering plant (having some Ruderalis genetics) will now have a shortened lifespan and may not survive to produce a suitable harvest.)

 

-LST techniques described and demonstrated.  (Supercropping technique briefly described.)  Description of the plant hormones having to do with growth dominance among branches described.

 

-Day 31 of Vegg, Assessment of LST.  LST corrections described.  Plant is healthy and has responded positively to the LST; laying down now.  Fed another batch of nutrients exactly the same as before, 500PPM and 5,8pH).

 

-Importance and differences in sugars discussed. (Sucrose, dextrose, maltose, glucose, etc.)

 

-Secondary topping in order to even-out the canopy at this early stage.  Growth hormones discussed again in relation to topping and LST.

 

-“Preflowers” discussed and close-ups shown.  Sexing accomplished.

 

-Day 33, fed another batch of nutrients exactly the same as before, 500PPM and 5,8pH.

 

-Cloning explained:  Rockwool cubes and their soak-preparation (24-hours at pH 5,5).  Products used:  FloraBloom,  Microbe-Life “Root-Dip”(a bacteria supplement fluid that encourages root development, helps but is optional), raw unfiltered honey(helps but is optional), cloning compound (Vit. B1 with butyric-Acid).

 

-Soaking solution consists of: 1 gallon water, ½ ml FloraBloom, 10 ml Microbe-Life “Root-Dip”, 1 drop raw-unfiltered honey(to feed the microbes from the bacteria supplement).  Soaking solutions often must be repeatedly reduced in pH when soaking Rockwool cubes.

 

-Cloning utensils preparation: Razor-blade(or fine shears) cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, a cloning gel like Clonex(not a powder in this case), a Propogation Tray with a clear lid that allows light in and restricts the evaporation of water inside while still allowing some ventilation, spraybottle with RO-water, and clean shears for trimming fan-leaves back.

 

-How to selecting branches to become clones.  View the video.

 

-How to trim selected branches and treat them before inserting them into Rockwool.  View the video.  It is essential to include at least one node (better two nodes) in the stem below the surface of the soil.

 

-Clipping the fan-leaves is important.  (Another tip from Cannabissapean is that after the clones are set in the Rockwool Cubes, until the roots become established, movement or twisting the clones within their cubes will destroy the tiny roots as they attempt to emerge from the stem.  Set the tray where it will be reasonably free of movement.  If you must later work on the clones, avoid brushing against the leaves, as the slightest twist in the hole could destroy days worth of root development.)

 

-Air Embolism.  When excessive air replaces the fluids in the xylem or phloem of the cambrium tissues of a plant, then suddenly the circulatory system cannot function any more.  One should be relatively quick when performing cloning procedures.

 

-Spraying the clones:  The water used must be clean, like RO-water or Distilled water.  Foliar spraying is the only way that the clone will have access to water until it finally develops roots.  In order to keep the humidity under the hood at its highest levels for as long as possible, spray also the inside surface of the hood.  That way the near-100% humidity remains for a longer period, saving you a couple extra trips per day to check on your clones.)

 

-Lighting for the clones should be Vegg lighting, but reduced intensity until they have developed roots.

 

-Clean away dying and ineffective foliage or foliage that is resting on the soil to guard against mold.

 

-Day 35 of Vegg, feedings are every 2 days now, indicating the plant is becoming rootbound.  Feeding solution now consists of: 1 gallon water, 4ml CalMag, 2ml Silicon+, 1ml Bloom, 2ml Micro, 3ml Grow, ½ ml Multiply, ¼ tsp Molasses.

 

-Day 37 of Vegg, feeding again.  Purple stems may indicate Magnesium deficiency, remedy is to include Epsom Salt (Magnesium sulfate) in the feeding.  Feeding now consists of: 1 gallon water, ½ tsp Epsom Salt, 4ml CalMag, 2ml Silicon+, 2ml Micro, 3 ml Grow, 1ml Bloom, ½ tsp Molasses, 1 drop raw/unfiltered Honey, ½ ml Multiply, resulting in 700PPM, possibly 150PPM of which was the Epsom Salts.  If the Epsom Salt helps, then the plan is to include that in future feedings at about half today’s dose.

 

-Second LST-session to spread all the upper branches outward and downward to force the growth hormones to the smaller shoots along the nodes of the main stem in order to create more primary bud sites.  It is planned to transplant this 1-gallon root-ball offset into a 3-gallon final pot so that the mass of the vegetation remains somewhat centered over the 3-gallon pot.

 

-Additional topping performed: Standard topping performed this time because less stretch is desired for these particular new shoots.  Micro-topping does not disturb the growth hormone balance in the stem directly under the top, and that stem would have stretched, but standard topping results in the stem being eliminated and the growth hormones being directed to the two new shoots at the next lower node, resulting in a temporary growth interruption.

 

-Day 39 of Vegg, feeding again. 

 

-Day 42 of Vegg, ready for transplant.  LST ties are loosened from the rim of the small pot, but remain loosely attached to the plant.  Fluids prepared: 2 gallons RO-water pH’d to 5,8 (only for the initial wetting of the new soil) and 1-gallon feeding solution (for the purpose of feeding the plant at the end of the transplanting procedure).  The 1-gallon feeding solution is mixed to the same ratios as the previous feeding, but at 1/3 strength.  (Reason for reduced strength:  After transplanting, the new roots might be damaged if the solution were at full strength; resumption of full-strength feeding is planned for sometime after the plant has had time to develop its new root-structure throughout the new pot.)  Solution prepared: 1-gallon water, 1,5ml CalMag, 1/3 ml Bloom, 2/3 ml Micro, 1ml Grow, ½ ml Silicon+, 1 drop raw/unfiltered Honey, 1 drop Molasses, 10 drops Multiply, resulting in approx. 250PPM.

 

-Thirsty plant prepared for transplant with light watering using only pH’d RO-water (not a feeding solution) in order to ease the handling of the rootball.  In the new 3-gallon pot, the new soil (ProMix-HP with Mychorrhizae) is wetted with RO-water@5,8pH and turned by hand to thoroughly mix and break-up any clumps and eliminate any air pockets.  Plant is transplanted offset into the new pot so that the mass of vegetation is somewhat centered over the new pot.

 

-Plant is fed the prepared 1/3 strength solution.  The 1-gallon solution should supplant the un-amended RO-water in the 3-gallon pot of soil. 

 

-LST ties returned to stress positions.  A second method of binding the LST strings to the pot is demonstrated.  Canopy nice and even, the plant is returned to the Vegg grow-area, at an appropriate height under 4 each 6500K CFL bulbs, with a 150-Watt HPS nearby, thereby increasing intensity in preparation for the 600-Watt intensity coming in the near future in the flowering area.

 

-Day 44(corrected) of Vegg, fed another gallon of solution (the mix not described here…).  The canopy growing healthy and level.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmsfvNpmJ9o&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71&index=4

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How to Grow Part 5, Transition and Early Flower.

The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline.

 

-Day 46 of Vegg, Lollypopping explained and demonstrated, removing lower leaves that are in the shadow of the canopy and tiny branches that would consume the plant’s energy that could best be used in the canopy.  Many of these small branches being removed would be excellent for new clones.

 

-Plant is fed a solution mixed for the transition to flowering.  The transition solution consists of: 1-gal RO-water, 5 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+, 2 ml Grow, 2ml Micro, 2 ml Bloom, 1 drop raw/unfiltered Honey, ¼ tsp Molasses, ½ ml (5 drops) Multiply, a little bit Epsom Salt(amount not better described), 1 ml General Hydroponics KoolBloom(0-10-10) (a liquid bloom booster).

 

-Day 47 of Vegg, the plant is moved to the flower tent(no feeding). About ½ inch of growth is noticed.  This is now Day 0 of Flower.  The pot is set on other objects in order to attain an acceptable height with room to grow.  The plan is to incrementally reduce the height of the pot over time as the plant grows.  The lighting is now set to 12/12, flowering photoperiod.

 

-Day 1 of Flower(not filmed), the plant is fed again with transition solution, all the same components, except the pH of the RO-water is now set to 5.9, and the KoolBloom is upped to 2ml.

 

-Day 3 of Flower, pot is light and it is time to feed a transition solution again.  All the components are the same except the pH of the RO-water is now set to 5.9, and the KoolBloom is upped to 4ml, and the Epsom Salts were not used.  Transition solutions shall continue until the plant begins to throw pistils and make flowers.  The urea-based Multiply will soon no longer be used, because it is so difficult to flush out of the plant.  Eventually, in flowering, the RO-water will be set at pH6.0 in order that the plant can more easily take-up phosphorus(P).

 

-Day 4 of Flower, plant has stretched to a point higher than the neighboring plants, so it is time to reduce the height of the pot.  Also, the canopy is becoming uneven.  Left alone, the higher tops will receive more growth hormones than the lower tops, and then they will stretch out of control, so we must intercede with Supercropping Techniques. 

 

-Supercropping Technique described and demonstrated.

 

-Plant is lowered to a position lower than the neighboring plant, because the plant will continue to stretch.  Preflowers are noticed and filmed.

 

-Plant is fed another transition solution with increased nutrients.  Solution consists of: 1-gal RO-water @ 5.9pH, 6 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+, 3 ml Grow, 3 ml Micro, 3 ml Bloom, 4 ml KoolBloom, 2 drops raw/unfiltered Honey, ¼ tsp Molasses, 5 drops Multiply.

 

-It is planned to switch away from Transition Solutions(which still contain some Vegg nutrients) when the plant finishes its stretch.

 

-Day 10 of Flower, the plant has grown again higher than the neighboring plant, so it is time to lower the pot again.  The pre-flowers have continued developing, and the budding structure is filmed.  Yellowish leaves indicate a slight deficiency in Nitrogen.  And it is time to feed.

 

-Plant is again lowered to a position lower than the neighboring plant, because the plant will continue to stretch.  Still feeding Transition Solution because the plant is still stretching.  Solution consists of: 1-gal. RO-water @5.9pH, 6 ml CalMag, 3 ml Silicon+, 1/3 tsp Molasses, 1/3 tsp Honey, 1/3 tsp Epsom Salt, 4 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 4 ml Bloom, ½ ml Multiply, 4 ml KoolBloom.

 

-Day 13 of Flower, her stretch and new size suggests the need for another Lollypopping (normally performed about 2-weeks into flowering).  The Supercropping bends are healed and the canopy is again evened out.  The choice of the height of the Lollypopping is discussed.  The plant is Lollypopped to half its height.  It is important to perform Lollypopping at this stage of pre-flowering because the Lollypopping does produce a temporary slow-down in development.  If Lollypopping is performed during full-on flowering, then that will adversely affect yield.

 

-The plant is lowered to its lowest height in preparation for its final stretch and flower production.

 

-The plant is fed a Transition Solution that has been tweaked a bit more in the direction of flowering.  Consists of: 1-gal. RO-water @5.9pH, 6 ml CalMag, 3 ml Silicon+, 1/3 tsp Molasses, 1/3 tsp Honey, pinch of Epsom Salts, ½ ml Multiply, 5 ml KoolBloom, 3 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 5 ml Bloom.  The ratio of the 3-Part is beginning to approach the “Ratio 1-2-3”, but it is not there yet.

 

-Day 17 of Flower, stretch appears to have slowed, and the plant needs a follow-up Lollypopping and another feeding.  This will be the last Transition Solution to be fed.  It consists of: 1-gal. RO-water @5.9pH, 6 ml CalMag, 3 ml Silicon+, 1/3 tsp Honey, 1/3 tsp Molasses, pinch of Epsom Salt, 2.5 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 5.5 ml Bloom, 5 ml KoolBloom.  Multiply was not mentioned, therefore believed to be left out.

 

-It is planned to begin flowering feeding at the next feeding. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRw7KXOoGnM&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71&index=5

 

 

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How to Grow Part 6, Middle to Late Flower.

The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline.

 

-Day 21 of Flower, pot is light-weight and it’s time to feed again, but before that, flush. The plant is flushed with 5 gallons of RO-water @6.0pH.  After that it receives its first full-flower feeding.  It is important during flowering, that every opportunity should be used to assess the plant for toxicities.  The trichomes have begun, so the sugars will also be increased.

 

-The full-flowering solution consists of: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 3 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp (not Tablespoon) Molasses, 1/3 tsp (not Tablespoon) Honey, pinch Epsom Salts, 2 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 6 ml Bloom, 5 ml KoolBloom, resulting in 1000PPM.  Multiply was not mentioned, therefore believed to be left out.

 

-Day 25 of Flower, full-flower feeding again, exactly the same as the solution fed on Day 21.  Multiply was not mentioned, therefore believed to be left out.

 

-Day 28 of Flower, faint tip-burn detected, meaning probably near to the max nutrients for this plant.  Slight yellowing of the leaves indicates the Nitrogen is a bit low.  Full-flowering Solution is tweaked a little bit:  1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 5 ml CalMag, 1 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch of Epsom Salt, 1 ml Grow, 2 ml Micro, 3 ml Bloom, 3 ml KoolBloom, 2 drops of Multiply to raise the Nitrogen again.

 

-Day 32 of Flower, blooms are growing and yellowing is still seen on the leaves.  Full-flowering solution today is: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, 1.5 ml Grow, 2 ml Micro, 2.5 ml Bloom, 4 ml KoolBloom, pinch of Epsom Salt.

 

-Day 35 of Flower, time to feed again.  The plant is in a new grow-tent under the 150-Watt HPS, next to another plant that is under a 600-Watt HPS (equipment upgrade).  Feeding solution is: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch Epsom Salt, 2 ml Grow, 3 ml Micro, 4 ml Bloom, 6 ml KoolBloom.  No Multiply.  Tomato cage added after the filming.

 

-Day 39 of Flower, Trichome production is discussed. (clear => cloudy => amber).  It  is expected that harvest is 3 or 4 weeks away, so flush planning is discussed.  “Target harvest day is Day 63.  Flushing should be performed for two weeks before harvest, so flush should be started on Day 49.”  Plant is further assessed for deficiencies and toxicities.  Feeding solution adjusted in hopes to make corrections.  Feeding solution: 1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 6 ml CalMag, 2 ml Silicon+(last application for this plant), ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch Epsom Salt, 2 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 6 ml Bloom, 6 ml KoolBloom.

 

-Day 42 of Flower, one week away from flush, plant looks great but she is thirsty.  Now in Late-Flower, the buds are formed; now the plant will work on filling-in the flowers with weight.  Possible calcium deficiency detected, so the feeding solution is changed using a little more CalMag:  1-gal. RO-water @6.0pH, 7 ml CalMag, no Silicon+, ½ tsp Molasses, ½ tsp Honey, pinch Epson Salt, 2 ml Grow, 4 ml Micro, 6 ml Bloom, 6 ml KoolBloom.  Using microscope camera, he sees that Trichomes are 40% clear and 60% cloudy.

 

-Day 44 of Flower, fed with solution exactly same as that of Day 42.  At this late-flowering phase, just keep feeding, reading deficiencies, and feeding.

 

-Day 47 of Flower, projected day of flush is Day 49.  Plant fed again with solution exactly same as that of Day 42, resulting in 1050 PPM.

 

-Day 49 of Flower, flush day.  Just a few amber Trichomes (3 – 5%), perfect for begin of flushing. By harvest, the ambers should be around 50%.  More than 50% amber Trichomes, the plant begins to degrade and re-absorb the Trichomes.

 

-At flush, 6 to 8 gallons of RO-water pH’d to 6,0 will be pushed through the 3-gallon pot over time.  Reasons for flush is discussed.  Plant is flushed.

 

-Day 54 of Flower, plant is a bit dry, 1-galon of 6.0 pH’d water is fed.

 

-Day 56 of Flower, plant is frosty and beautiful.  Plant is flushed again with 4 to 5 gallons 6,0 pH’d water.  Further flushing after this will not need to be pH’d.  Anywhere between 6.0 and 8.0 is acceptable.

 

-Day 59 of Flower, fed 1 gallon of RO-water, not pH’d.  The purple is showing in the leaves.

 

-Day 61 of Flower, purple and yellow autumn colors are showing.  Plant fed 1 more gallon of water, last watering.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEM_2B5EF-s&index=6&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71

 

 

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How to Grow Part 7, Harvesting/Drying/Curing.

The Link is found at the bottom of this post, below the outline.

 

-Day 63 of Flower, beautiful frosty and heavy plant with purple tones in the flowers.  It is best to harvest a plant in the last few minutes before the lamps would turn back on.  Harvesting late in the plants lighted time will cause more chlorophyll to be in the product.  (Cannabissapean remedies that.  I leave the plant in the dark for 1 or 2 days before beginning the cutting.)

 

-Harvesting technique described.  Wash hands or wear neoprene gloves.

 

-All fan-leaves that have no Remove and discard all large fan-leaves without any Trichomes.

 

-Remove all large fan-leaves that do have Trichomes, and save them for Hash-trim.

 

-Bud structure discussed to understand why lower buds are not high-grade product, therefore, why Lollypopping is so important.

 

-Cut down each branch and trim the frosty leaf-tips into the Hash-trim pile.

 

-Scissor-hash and Finger-hash can be collected together in a ball and is called charas.

 

-The Hash-trim can be frozen in well-sealing Ziploc-type freezer plastic bags and used later for many different types of concentrate, such as bubble-hash, Simpson Oil, edibles, shatters, waxes, Cannabutter, etc.

 

-Drying:  Hang the trimmed branches.  A drying box is shown.  The product is allowed to dry while hanging in the drying box for about 4 to 7 days, depending on the ambient humidity.  In an environment with 30% humidity, it takes about 5 days to reach the proper dryness for snapping the buds off the stalks.

 

-The proper dryness can be judged by when the stems break with a “snap” instead of bending.

 

-When the stems snap, then the buds can be broken away from the stem and placed in a clean jar with a sealing lid.  It is best to not allow the buds to dry-out completely, because the chlorophyll must be converted over time during the curing process.

 

-Curing:  Open the jar in a low-humidity area for 15 minutes a day for the first week.  Thereafter, open the jar for 15 minutes three weeks.  Bud-rot is the greatest enemy at this stage, so if it appears that the product is too moist, leave the jar open a bit longer.

 

-Curing occurs when the humidity evaporates in successive stages over time.  When the buds are sealed in the jar, the humidity in the center of the buds equalizes throughout the bud-mass.  When the jar is opened, then the humidity evaporates rapidly from the outer surfaces of the buds.  Sealing the jar again allows the equalization process to occur again. 

 

-When the humidity inside the jar settles to less than 62%, then the product is smoke-able, but not fully cured.  Optimal flavor is achieved after about 4 weeks curing.  After that, the jar can be left sealed for indefinite periods.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbLw767_fOA&list=PLfKFNZAfF1GxcVdCc4XPxMCKqmRiWVh71&index=7

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To finish out this Series I will include two more videos from NVclosetmedgrower:

 

Bonus Video #1:  How to Extract: Bubble Hash

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFz41CDHg4g

 

and

 

Bonus Video #2:  How to make Moon Rocks! - DIY Connoisseur Quality Cannabis Caviar Buds

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rieOVgCA5xk

 

 

 

 

I hope you have enjoyed the Series.

 

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Will you be typing the last two vids also? I would like  to print all that out. And Thank You for taking time to type all that out!

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No, BMG, I'll leave the outlines of the last 2 videos to each viewer to do that for himself.  It's not so difficult a job.

 

Regarding the first 7 videos, I felt it was important to outline them so that new growers can see that great success with growing cannabis is not by accident.  It takes planning and preparation to have the kind of success that this grower had had.

 

And it must also be understood that not all recipes and techniques work the same for each grower.  Each grower has his own environmental issues and growing restrictions to deal with.  To reach the highest level of success requires dialing-in one's set-up and also dialing-in one's own monitoring and knowledge of the cannabis plant and participation in the process.

 

The grower above didn't develop his techniques overnight.  His presentation is certainly the result of many hours of research and study, along with a number of years of practice.  I value that highly.

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After the first line I just scrolled all the way down... That's dedication mate... 👍

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About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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