Super Silver Haze and Zamaldelica, Tropical grow, ready or not?

[Absolem]

High every body!!!

I send you some pictures of my second session in tropical weather, i have one Super Silver Haze;.

I want to know if the Super Silver Haze can be ready after only 8 weeks (58days) of flowering (i stoped additional light and let her outdoor 58 days ago, here the sun shines 12h per day ). She grew in 6l airpots, i think she had some Azote defficiency during flowering because the big leaves went yellow, from the botom to the top, slowly, all flowering time.

I stop giving nutrients 10 days ago to the SSH; sorry for my english, i do my very best!!

She looks ready, doesn t she?

[Absolem]

Sorry, i can't manage to put these pics in the good way^^

 

[Absolem]

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[Cannabissapean]

Absolem, you asked whether it is ready to harvest.  Well, you could, but she looks as though she could go a few more days yet.

 

A couple considerations:

 

1.  You mentioned that you stopped giving her nutes 10 days ago.  But did you flush her after her last feeding?  If not, then you really need to do that to help her rid the soil of the excess nutes and salts that are built-up in the soil.  This would allow the plant to do the same, to rid her tissues of the excessive nutrients and salts over the remaining days of her life.  I would definitely flush her and let her go another 1 or 2 weeks.  Flush with just plain water, 3-times the volume of the pot she is growing in, all in the same day.  After that, she will need maybe 5 or 6 days before her next watering.  Her leaves are yellowing, and that is OK for a plant at this stage.  The leaves turning colors at this stage are a sign of maturing, mellowing, and natural dieing.  As the plant is doing this, energy and the last remaining nutrients are being re-absorbed from the coloring fan leaves and transferred to the flowers (to ensure the success of the seeds if she had any).  If the soil is well flushed, then the clean and relatively nutrient-free soil will help her to become more clean.  Smoking a flower that has lots of salts and nutrients is harsh and tastes bad, and it doesn't burn well.

 

2.  You mentioned that she receives no additional lighting, and that she is now outdoors at about 12 hours light per day.  Her leaves in among the flowers look so full amd plump and healthy, and where are the pistils (white hairs) on the flowers?  These things indicates to me that she is still getting a bit too much light still.   And did she come in contact with cannabis pollen?  Is she seeding?  She looks like she might have...

Anyway, regardless whether she has seeds or not, I would also reduce her light even further at this time to around only 6 or 8 hours light per day for these last days.  She needs to begin to lose her chlorophyl in these last days; if she continues to receive good light, she will continue to produce chlorophyl, not needed now.

[Absolem]

Cannabissapean,

1. Did i flush her after the last feeding? No, but i will do, i tought giving her only water for the 15 last days would be enough.

When you talk about "plain water", does it means a PH ajusted water?

I Also tought the yellowing leaves meant she was "cleaned of salt and nutes"

2. I do not think she had been in contact with cannabis pollen, i do not have males plants in the area.

I do not understand when u ask '' where are the pistils ''? They have turned red and brown i guess.

Many thanks for your help I will flush her and let her 1 week more.

 

 

[Cannabissapean]

Giving only water (without flushing) is almost like flushing, but because the salts still remain in the soil, her roots will still have to contend with the overabundance of the salts and minerals that are only partially thinned-out by the new fresh water.  However, if flushed, the soil (being relatively cleaner than the plant) gives the plant more "room" to throw-off her salts.  Think of it like the principle of "osmosis".

 

And yes, continuing to pH the water will also help the process of mineral transfer at the roots, even in the final days.  I'll discuss this here in a bit more detail:

 

During flowering, you can adjust the pH a bit higher than in Vegg.  Whereas the best pH for Vegg in soil is around 6.2, as the plant transitions into flowering, you should set the pH in general a little bit higher with each feeding, approaching 6,7 or 6,8.  The flowering components P and K are better absorbed when the pH is a bit higher.  After the final flush (the last two weeks), there should be so little of anything in the soil that you are no longer concerned that the plant is up-taking anything, so the pH becomes almost irrelevant, but not entirely.  You can relax having to be so exact with pH adjustments, except that you do wish that the plant can still exchange with the soil in order that she can throw-off her excess salts and minerals.  In order to keep those final "throw-off" processes going, the pH should still be monitored and adjusted, and it can be allowed to be as high as around 7,2 to 7,5.  But don't allow the pH to be higher than 8,0.  At such high levels, you will be in "Lock-out" and the plant cannot get rid of the unwanted salts and minerals.

 

The yellowing leaves indicate that she is deficient in Nitrogen (that's OK at this point; she is so near harvest).  Yellow leaves could also indicate other deficiencies or toxicities, but not in the case of your plant.  She is in good health at this mature stage of her life.  Yellowing and color-changing leaves can also simply mean that the plant has "decided" to shut-off an old leaf in the normal process of aging.  This is natural and desired.  Just as the trees in the forests are turning colors in the Autumn, these colors are indicating that the plant is re-absorbing complex sugars out of the leaves for storage in the roots; cannabis, however, stores these complex sugars in her flowers in the form of THC, CBD and the Terpines (her purpose is for the further development and protection of her children, the seeds.

 

Pistils, yeah, you are right, I did have a double-take at my own words there after I had written them.  Looking again at your photos, it seemed to me that the pistils had already turned yellow or brown and shrivelled down into the flowers.  This scene doesn't occur so thoroughly in my grow as it did in yours, possibly because your plant is exposed to the natural environment (sun, wind, rain, insects, etc.), and these natural influences may certainly have a more deletory effect on the appearance of pistils.  Without these natural effects, pistils in indoor grows tend to remain visible and vibrant and white for a much longer time.  As well, in indoor grows, the Trichomes tend to remain clear (or more visible) for a longer time.

 

You are doing a wonderful job learning to "read" the plant.  As you continue to apply yourself in the art of growing cannabis, you will certainly make mistakes from time to time; we all do; I know that I do.  But it is exactly from those "Aww Shit Moments" that we continue to hone our skills;  we learn best from our own mistakes, and strive to avoid repeating them again.

 

Looking forward to your next journal...

[Absolem]

Many thanks for your incentives Cannabisapean!!!

My girlfriend says i pass more time looking to my plants than with her ! But it is because i really try to analyse everything.

The sun shines really hot here, it is also windy, perhaps the reason why pistils are guetting brown easier. But it s not the case of all my plants. Zamaldelica has had the same life time and still has white pistils, breeders says zamaldelica should be ready to harvest at 11/14 weeks.

Here she is at 9 weeks:

[Absolem]

2 hours ago, Absolem said:

Many thanks for your incentives Cannabisapean!!!

My girlfriend says i pass more time looking to my plants than with her ! But it is because i really try to analyse everything.

The sun shines really hot here, it is also windy, perhaps the reason why pistils are guetting brown easier. But it s not the case of all my plants. Zamaldelica has had the same life time and still has white pistils, breeders says zamaldelica should be ready to harvest at 11/14 weeks.

Here she is at 9 weeks:

 

[Absolem]

Sorry for double posting ! i am trying everything to rotate the pictures, but it is not easy to understand for a frenchy like me

 

[Cannabissapean]

Absolem, I think I know how to help you fix your picture problem.

 

First of all, if you are using a Smartphone or other mobile device to upload your pictures, then you might not be able to correct that problem.

 

This forum runs best when you are using a full-sized laptop or a base PC.  Many features of the forum are not available to users of mobile devices.

 

OK, to fix the picture problem:

After taking the picture, you must open the picture with a picture-editting program such as "Paint" or any other picture-editting program.  If you only use a mobile device, then you will need to find and install a picture-editting App on your mobile device, then MAYBE it will work.  If it doesn't work on your mobile device, then you might have to transfer your pictures to a full-sized laptop or a base PC.  Open the picture with a picture-editting program such as "Paint" or any other picture-editting program.  Make your picture-orientation corrections and THEN save the picture.  After the picture has been saved by the picture-editting program, then you can upload your picture into the forum.  Only THEN will the orientation-attributes be accepted by the forum.

 

The difference is this: 

When you change the orientation of a picture using standard OS display software, that changes only the way it is displayed for you on that device, but nothing is stored in the file for that picture.  Because no new information is stored in the picture's file, when you upload the picture to the forum, it is displayed the same as it was before.

 

But when you open the picture in a picture-editting program, make a change and then SAVE it, the new attributes are then saved in the file.  When you upload now, the new attributes (new orientation) come with the file.

 

 

Hope this helps.