Jump to content

First Journal, third grow


LedCherryBerry
 Share

Recommended Posts

47 minutes ago, Cannabissapean said:

Glad that I could help...

Hey, that's the price for my pizza recipe hehehe
Nah, i'm the one glad i joined this forum. Without, i think i would've fucked up.
Still, the GJ is far from over! I'll need your help too to accomplish what i'm doing :D

Thank you man, appreciate all the help. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As promised, the photos.

S1:
59e22e2a66e52_SUB1-12-35CM.thumb.JPG.42a11aa5d20397f562f1986b646c02f6.JPG

I LST'd the 3 main colas (2 colas from topping, 1 cola came from the underground hehe) after this photo to let the other small colas get some light.

S2:

59e22e804a580_SUB2-11-26CM.thumb.JPG.0a69c71219fb7a9d633ff154ddc74285.JPG


Here's a close-up of the main cola:
59e22eadbe8e7_SUB2-11Bis-Flower.thumb.JPG.fdcd2402977114dda088e376f9d2cebf.JPG

 

And here's S3:
59e22ecb738cf_SUB3-12-30CM.thumb.JPG.da859c624c736c7e8d1c740b11fb270b.JPG

 

They don't seem too happy, but neither seem too sad :)

Uno stack pieces as a bonus, i use them to elevate my pots so they have a better airflow beneath them.
I don't know why, but my tomatoes seem to be spider-mite-proof. Can't see a single one on any leaf. I'll consider them lucky hehe

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tomatoes are slightly poisonous on the green parts. 

You know that tomatoes are closely related to Nightshade, right?

 

Besides, if you had a choice which plant to eat, which plant would you choose to chew?

 

 

 

I'm not going away.  I'm here if you need me.

Plants are looking fab.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't know that! 
In what way are they poisonous? You mean the whole plant is a bit poisonous except the fruits themselves?
I knew about zucchini leaves, but not about tomatoes. Meh, i'll try to isolate them better.

Also, those tomatoes are clones. Their mother died due to old age, those 2 somehow managed to survive and flower again.
I wonder if they'll be able to produce at least one tomato, their mother did.

I also wonder what strains are S2 and S3.
Their leaves show a slight blue tinge, S2 in particular way.
S1 shows purple stems and branches, but i wonder if that is from the cold at night (20 C°) or just plain genetics. 
This plant is amazing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I have heard.  And yes, even the tomato fruits are poisonous until they are ripe.

And not just Tomatoes; Potatoes are also poisonous on all green parts, even on the potato root-fruit (the tuber).  If the Tuber is exposed to the sun while in the ground, the exposed portion wll develop chlorophyl and that portion is poisonous.

 

But now that I have written that here, I am embarrassed that I didn't follow-up with research.  So, I shall look for some info to back that up.

 

Here it  is.  (Simple Search for "Are Tomatoes poisonous?" reveals many answers.  Here is just one of them.):

 

http://www.botanical-online.com/tomato_toxicity.htm

 

And for Potatoes.  (Simple Search for "Are Potatoes poisonous?...):

 

http://www.botanical-online.com/alcaloidespatataangles.htm

 

In fact, many of the foods we eat originate from plants that contain poisons.  It is often a matter of which part we eat,  or it is a matter of cooking them in order to eliminate the poison, not always possible with all toxins.  (MUST READ:  The seeds of Cherries and Apples contain cyanide.  DON'T EAT THE SEEDS!!!):

 

http://listverse.com/2009/01/06/top-10-poisonous-foods-we-love-to-eat/

 

 

And to address your mention of zucchinis, here is a Wikipedia article on zucchinis.  Apparently, for the commercial market, zucchinis have been bred to have lower levels of its toxin - cucurbitacin.  But seeds from older heirloom strains or from ornamental varieties may still contain significant amounts of the toxin.  The main thing to be aware of is the taste.  If your zucchini is bitter, don't eat it.  It is also reecommended NOT to save the seeds from your own zucchinis, gourds and cucumbers for the purpose of growing them for food.  If your edible plants have become pollinated by the pollen from a neighbor's decorative (possibly poisonous) plant, then the poisonous properties may be imparted into the seeds in that fruit that you just now ate.  Even though the fruit you ate wasn't poisonous, the fruit that results from those seeds might be poisonous.  Caution, the toxin cucurbitacin is NOT eliminated by cooking:

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zucchini

 

A man in Germany died from eating Zucchini Stew:

 

https://www.thedailymeal.com/heidelberg-germany-zucchini-toxin-poison/82315

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heyo!

First thing i did when i woke up was to power on my pc, and google up "are tomatoes poisonous" hehehehe.
I knew about potatoes, and about the apple seeds. We always joke on that. 
Still, i'm surprised about tomatoes. Meh, fuck it, i'll give more attention to not eat the leaves, or to suck its branches hahahahaha.

Anyway, back to the GJ:
- Sprayed again with NeemOil+Soap
- Fed the babies with only water (1/4 the pot size)
- Runoff 20%
- Runoff at 5,5 PH (better than the last time, which was around 5,2). S2 Had a runoff of almost 5,8.
- Can't see any fungus gnats flying around, nor on the sticky papers. Maybe i got rid of them. In such case: Hurray!
- Mites number decreasing
- Growth seems still a bit stunted.

I think i'll move my tomatoes in a grow box me and my family built outside, so i'll give them natural light, and will have more room in the Grow Box.
I'll head to bed.

If God took a nap on sunday, why shouldn't I do? 
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like you are starting to win the battle.

 

Run-off pH coming up to better levels, (target = 6,2 to 6,5).

 

It is normal that growth is stunted when you have mites.  Mites wil also stunt the bud production if they are still there, so remain dilligent and aggressive.

 

Have a nice Sunday nap my friend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/10/2017 at 5:35 PM, LedCherryBerry said:


So, little recap:

- PH Solution 6.8
- Runoff PH 5.2 (on average)
- Showing yellowing, brown spots
- Have fungus gnats minor infestation
- Have spider mites medium infestation
- Have my balls kind of busted by pests

I think i missed this bit first time round.

if your PH'ed water is 6.8 and run off is 5.2, your soil is very acidic.

a difference of 1.6 should then be taken off your run off to find

the ph value of the medium, run off 5.2 minus 1.6 = 3.4, works the

same if the run off PH increases add the difference not subtract.

i would stop using nutes untill you have ph under control not being

absorbed by the plant will only make this worse.

peace and have fun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heyo,

Thanks for all your kind answers.

Yes, i feel like i'm starting to win this fight. The mites seem less active, even tho they're getting greedy.
I can see some of them moved from the under side to the upper side of the leaves.
I try to catch them with the sticky paper, without messing too much with them: i am afraid of webbing.
I also caught a bigger mite, different from the others. "He" is on the upper side of a leaf, black, at least double the size of spider mites. He's black. 
I still can't see him on camera, i'll need to buy a macro lens for it, but that's something i'll buy when i'll be rich! Hehehe..

Anyway, answering slimjim.

Yes, i've missed PH basics. 
Meaning that, when i first grew, i didn't care about PH cause i didn't have any problems with it.
I was extremely lucky. In my first grow (this is my third), i used the same soil i am using now (biobizz all mix), the nutrients are the same (biobizz rj, grow and bloom), and the water that came out of the sink was the same of my town, so i assumed it was the same in my home, too.
It might be that the water i used came at a ph higher than 7, 7.5. So, when mixed with nutes, the soil had the right PH. 
I also never measured my PH in my first grow, so what i'm saying is purely hypothetical. 

With this grow, i've come to understand that i NEED to measure my PH. 
So, it passed more than a month since i started this grow, and realized i had a PH problem.
As soon as the PH meter arrived, i tested my water's PH, my nutes PH, the runoff of soil+clay, only to have an idea to what i'd find with the actual runoff.
Sorry, this is complicated writing, i can't imagine you reading it! hehehehe..
Anyway, the first actual runoff that i measured from my plants, had a medium PH reading of about 5.2.
A week later (today), i tested the PH, and it resulted 5.5.
I am planning a flush for next watering, or next week. 
And i am also looking at some PH-UP on amazon. 

Please correct me if i'm wrong, i need to understand if i got this right.
If i have my water at 7, and my runoff measured 5, it means i have a PH of 3 in the soil, right?
So, to UP my runoff PH to 6,5, i'll need to water them with PH 10 water? 

I also need to understand if there is a "barricade" of acid PH, and if so will i be able to remove it with a flush?

Thanks for your time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do not try to alter ph all in 1 watering no more than .5 ph in any 24hrs

keep going the way you are but dont use the nutes, once run off

is almost same as going in resume with nutes.

just check also your not using to strong mix of nutes

peace

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, slimjim said:

do not try to alter ph all in 1 watering no more than .5 ph in any 24hrs

keep going the way you are but dont use the nutes, once run off

is almost same as going in resume with nutes.

just check also your not using to strong mix of nutes

peace


Heyo,

I will do as you suggest. 

In page 1 you'll find my nute schedule.
Figures that i started my schedule at half the strenght cause i didn't want to cause a burn. 
Karma hates me.
IMO, i'm not under a strong schedule. 
I might have given too many BioBizz Root Juice at the beginning, but i thought 1ML/LT would've been fine for the first two weeks.

As i said, i'll do as you suggest. 
I'll keep watering without nutes until runoff PH reaches 6.2 - 6.5. 

One thing makes me scratch my skull: S1 shows major nutrient burn, alongside its many spider-mites bites.. But S2 and S3 show very, very little damage.
Could it be that the 3 strains absorb nutrients in a different way from each other? Or prefer a different PH?
Has it ever been tested, if Indica or Sativa strains prefer a PH instead of another? Might be a dummy question, but it's really making me go haywire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't water at pH 10.

 

You were having positive progress with the pH while watering at 6,8.  The runoff is improving.  Why mess with success?

 

If you have already flushed, then I wouldn't recommend an additional flush. 

 

However, if you haven't flushed, then SlimJim's suggestion to perform a flush for soil-pH correction shouldn't hurt.

 

And yes, it is possible that Sativas and Indicas have different nutrition requirements.  That theme is sometimes discussed in the Grow-Sessions with Franco and Arjan.

 

You are experiencing a common problem that occurs when growing different strains all at the same time.  Each strain should be "read" separately, and their nutrients and other conditions should be adjusted separately. 

 

It happens to me, too.  When I grow 3 or 4 different strains at one time, I usually feed them all the same at first, but eventually one strain (or one plant) will begin to show some kind of weakness.  At that time, I begin to diverge their feeding plans or feeding mixes;  for the ailing plant, I make specific adjustments in the nutrient mix and i feed that plant separately.  Sometimes, depending on the plant's reaction, the divergence is only for one or two feedings; other times, the plant demands a permanently different feeding schedule.

 

It also occurs that that same strain grown with a different set of companion strains might be one of the strong plants, and one of the other strains is the weaker strain.

 

Basically, because I mix my soil mixes with a combination of Plagron Mix + some of my own Compost + some forest floor leaf compost + some Worm Humus + Perlite + whatever other UNUSED soil is left over in various bags of soil in my home that seems right for the current mix, I never mix my soils the same each time.  And I rarely follow a set schedule of feeding.  I do use the manufacturer's charts as a guideline, but I never mix at full strength.  I try to let the plant tell me what it likes and dislikes.  I try to grow mainly relying on the soil mix to provide the basic nutrition, using a minimum of the chemical ferts.  I let the plant tell me what its deficiencies are, then I adjust the feeding solution at each feeding to try to correct those deficiencies.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Cannabissapean said:

I wouldn't water at pH 10.

 

You were having positive progress with the pH watering at 6,8.  The runoff is improving.  Why mess with success?

 

If you have already flushed, then I wouldn't recommend an additional flush. 

 

However, if you haven't flushed, then SlimJim's suggestion to perform a flush for soil-pH correction shouldn't hurt.

 

And yes, it is possible that Sativas and Indicas have different nutrition requirements.  That theme is sometimes discussed in the Grow-Sessions with Franco and Arjan.

 

You are experiencing a common problem that occurs when growing different strains all at the same time.  Each strain should be "read" separately, and their nutrients and other conditions should be adjusted separately. 

 

It happens to me, too.  When I grow 3 or 4 different strains at one time, I usually feed them all the same at first, but eventually one strain (or one plant) will begin to show some kind of weakness.  At that time, I begin to diverge their feeding plans or feeding mixes;  for the ailing plant, I make specific adjustments in the nutrient mix and i feed that plant separately.  Sometimes, depending on the plant's reaction, the divergence is only for one or two feedings; other times, the plant demands a permanently different feeding schedule.

 

It also occurs that that same strain grown with a different set of companion strains might be one of the strong plants and one of the other strains is the weaker strain.

 

Basically, because I mix my soil mixes with a combination of Plagron Mix + some of my own Compost + some forest floor leaf compost + some Worm Humus + Perlite + whatever other UNUSED soil is left over in various bags of soil in my home that seems right for the current mix, I never mix my soils the same each time.  And I rarely follow a set schedule of feeding.  I use the manufacturer's charts as a guideline, but I never mix at full strength.  I try to let the plant tell me what it likes and dislikes.  I try to grow mainly relying on the soil mix to provide the basic nutrition, using a minimum of the chemical ferts.  I let the plant tell me what its deficiencies are, then I adjust the feeding solution at each feeding to try to correct those deficiencies.


Heyo,

Goddamn i love long answers!

So there's another fool like me (don't take it personal eh) that loves experimenting!
3 to 4 strains at once? Damn man, my envy is rapidly increasing.. hehe, joking.

I don't have the intention to water at PH 10, i was just trying to understand basic math :D
However, i really want to give the flush a try. I haven't done any flush on these babies. 
I flushed once in my first grow, because i fucked up with the nutes (too many) and burned an entire corona (i like to call the secondary colas beneath the main one like this). I intendo to flush this time because i want to be sure that i wont fuck up like that ever again. I am seeing the signs of burn, i'd like to intervene asap.

I am glad that you explained to me your schedule, mainly because i can see other's work and thought.
May i ask you how do you prepare your compost? Do you follow a particular method, or you got your own?
I ask because i am thinking of doing my own. Other than my growbox, i have a small greenhouse near my workplace, and near that i have a small field from which i could gather my resources. I am not thinking of using that compost for my babies, i'm thinking of using it as a fertilizer for my greenhouse. I don't wish to use any chemicals there, just the resources i get from my surroundings. I built the entire greenhouse for the sole purpose of trying to feed myself in the cleanest way i can :)

 

Can you link me the grow-sessions you're talking about? I'm very interested in reading-viewing-listening to any of those. I'm a greedy learner hehe.

I get what you're talking about. Plants should be seen as individuals, and not as a species. 
Not in the morale way, of course. 
Each of us humans come from the human race, yet we are so different: we require different food, we listen to different music, worship different gods (i'm atheist, btw), live different lives. Why should plants be any.. different?
Maybe, they do come from the same "mother", but they do, indeed, require different attentions.
This got too vegan, and spiritual. Not my ground anymore.

The last part of your answer is really interesting.
So you basically gather up as many soils, in a way that they mix their nutrients so you'll just add what they're missing, when they decide to show a deficiency. 
It's clever. 
I also don't like using nutes at full strenght, or at what the producer suggests. I am always convinced that what i'm feeding them, i'll be smoking later. The less chemicals i put in my soil, the less i'll smoke when she's ready. 
Yet, i understand the needs of a plant in a pot, so.. I fuck up. Like, all the time. I love my babies too much ehehehehe

Wish you good things, hope i'll be able someday to pass you this joint ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The grow sessions are found outside the forum walls now.  Search Youtube for "Grow Sessions", and you get this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=greenhouse+seeds+grow+sessions

 

Each session is about a different strain and describes the nutrition and conditions under which Franco had grown that plant at that time.

 

 

 

Here in the forum, Franco (under the alias "darko.gh") had posted a series of Articles called "Franco's Tricks" where he discusses his various techniques, tips and tricks:

http://forums.strainhunters.com/index.html/articles/grow-articles/

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My composting.  I run six composters. 

 

Four of them are for grass-clippings and general yard waste (leaves and sticks and weeds and such), occasionally large bulk of rotting vegetables from the garden, and occasionally the vegetable kitchen-waste. 

For moisture, I sprinkle rainwater or pondwater into the composters whenever they look dry or when it seems that their activity has reduced.  I open them to the rain if I happen to remember. I close them against the sunlight if I happen to remember.  I turn these composters about once or twice a year.  When I harvest the compost (on average, every two years) I basically shovel the stuff over a sieve.  (I use a rough throw-sieve which is commonly available at any garden center.)

 

That stuff that is not yet rotted to an unrecognizeable state or which is still large enough that it does not fall through the sieve, I throw back in the bottom of a cleaned-out composter to start that composter anew.

 

The black stuff that does fall through the sieve is the rich stuff that I spread into my growhouse (for vegetables, not cannabis) just before I turn the soil in late Fall sometime between Halloween and Thanksgiving.  Or, I may throw that black compost over the surface of the outer-garden just before I perform the tilling in the late Fall and early Spring. 

 

OK, that was those 4 composters.  The other two composters are a bit more special. 

 

 

In the other 2 composters, I throw only the cream of the crop kind of wastes:  First of all, NO grass-clippings.  I throw in: cannabis leaves and sticks from taking-down and trimmimg my cannabis plants, nearly all the vegetable kitchen-wastes, the leaves from my apple and cherry trees, the shredded limbs from the cherry and apple trees, forest-floor composted leaves collected from nearby piles of leaves in the community (adds natural microbes), and the soils from the finished potted cannabis plants, but never soils from other plants in the house (they contain fertilizers for decorative plants and may also contain diseases that I dont want in my cannabis), only cannabis soils.  The kitchen-waste never contains meats or oils from cooking, only vegetable debris or molding breads. (Meats and cooking oils will attract the wrong kind of critters to the compost: mice, rats, meat-flies, bot-flies, maggots, etc.)

 

Three or four times each year, I sprinkle about 15 liters of rainwater or pond water into each composter to add microbes and moisture, and that really gets things going.

 

Into these two composters, I also throw earthworms everytime I find one while doing yardwork.  The worms and all the other critters that live in the composters will work along with the microbes to consume and break-down the vegetable matter, turning it into worm-dung, critter-dung and the wastes from bacteria and fungus.  These waste-products are exactly what plants love.  But the compost alone cannot be the soil.  The compost is only an amendment.

 

I turn these 2 composters also about once or twice a year.  When I harvest these special composters (on average, every year) I sieve them the same as the other composters, but then I sieve them again with a finer sieve. (Here's a tip:  Do you have an old oscillating fan that no longer works?  Don't throw it away without saving the fan-guard.  The fan-guard (made of expanded mesh) is the perfect garden-sieve.  It is the perfect size, and the holes are just perfect to create a very fine compost.)  This fine compost I put into large plastic bags (dog-food style bags with the zip locks) and I allow it to sit closed for 2 or 3 months or longer (better, for a year in order to kill-off the various creatures that had been so active in the composter, because I don't want them crawling out of my cannabis soils and infesting my grow area). 

 

When I mix my next batch of "supersoil for cannabis", this fine compost is definitely one of the amendments.  The microbes will become active again as soon as I mix the compost with the new soil and add water.  I also add a little Mychorrhizae to my supersoils just to be sure it is active.  It is always a good practice to allow a freshly-mixed and moistened supersoil to sit covered for 2 or 3 months before use to allow the microbes and fungi to become fully active before use.  So plan ahead and mix your soil and moisten it in advance of when you will need to use it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, the other soils that I throw in do not comprise any large percentage of the whole.  They're just small left-over soils, but NOT used soils.  I have thrown in small amounts of such soils as:  bonsai soil mix, soil for citrus trees, cactus soil, tomato soil, rhodadendron or azalea soil, most any soil that is tested to have a pH between 5,0 and 7,0.  But NOT soils with any timed-release fertilizer;  the time-release feature will often result in nutrient spikes at the wrong times for cannabis during its lifecycle.

 

But that's not to say that I just throw stuff together without seriously thinking about what is in it.  I do read the contents and judge whether its contents might be something that cannabis can use.  I do create my mixes with the goal in mind of approaching the nutritional values that one sees in soils prepared in the various "supersoil for cannabis" recipes found online or in YouTube, but I try to avoid mixing a soil that is too sharp for cannabis.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scribble, scribble..

I'm writing everything down. Just wanted you to know.
I've been always told not to reuse the same soil in which grew cannabis, but i guess than in a disinformed country, you can have disinformed people. 

I should start doing my compost, then.
Unfortunately i will not be able to do "la crème de la crème", as it is kind of difficult for me to transport cannabis leaves around the town, but i'll be able to gather some grass, some kiwis, strawberries, and whatever grows in my greenhouse that doesn't make it in our bellies.
Just to be precise, i don't grow cannabis in my greenhouse. It would be stupid, too many eyes and ears in my town. Also, this summer temperatures reached 50.1 C° inside, so i guess unless a strain develops leaves like a cactus, i doubt i'll be able to ever grow something there. In january, temperatures reach 36 C° degrees in a sunny day (inside). I mainly grow different kinds of salad, chili peppers, tomatoes, carrots, watermelons inside the greenhouse. 
This year went special because i left for holidays my tomatoes and the habaneros without water, without fresh air, inside the greenhouse.
Indeed, temperatures reached 50 degrees.
I came back 45 days later finding half of my tomato plants still alive, and both the habaneros still alive. Dry, but alive. Gave them what it seemed like 100 liters of water, and in a day they came back up. The tomatoes that i'm growing in my grow box are the clones i took from those tomatoes, and the habaneros are giving me more fruits, right now. I'm really hoping for a late-fall crop :)

Gotta go to sleep, work's work. 
I'll update as soon as i have updates hehehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A friendly member here in StrainHunters @hexx_NL has demonstrated her method of re-using soil in which cannabis had previously grown.  Here's how she does it.  In preparation for a transplant, she first removes the stump of an old cannabis plant from its final pot of soil, leaving the soil and the old dead roots intact in the large final pot.  Then she removes the "small plant to be transplanted" along with its nearly root-bound root-ball from its smaller pot and simply sets the root-ball directly on top of the old soil of the final pot.  Yeah, maybe she opens the hole up a little bit, but the special characteristic of her method is that the new plant and its rootball sit higher, and air can easily get to the upper roots of the small rootball.  The lower one-third to one-half of the small rootball is what now grows roots into the final pot, right alongside the old dead roots of the previous plant.  She claims that it seems that the new plant recognizes that a cannabis plant had grown there before, and so the new plant grows comfortably there.  Just thought you might like to hear about that technique.

 

In the past, I have reused soil from a cannabis grow to mix directly into a "supersoil mix", but not very often.  I haven't yet attempted Hexx_NL's technique yet, but after writing this, I may try it sometime next year; an experiment.

 

But I definitely DO reuse the soil from cannabis grows by mixing it in with all the other compost ingredients and after the worms and critters and microbes have had their shot at it for a year.  But then I no longer consider it to be soil, I consider it to be compost, and therefore only an amendment.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That seems interesting, and has given me an idea.

If this method points at giving more air to the newer roots, i'm thinking of integrating a multi-perforated spiral tube in a regular plastic pot.
I don't know if there's any already done, i just came up with the idea. 

I'd basically craft and perform little holes on a plastic tube, like the ones you use for compressed air.
I'd close one end, the other one leave it open.
In this way, i'd have a circular pot with multiple air-rings inside the soil, constantly supplying fresh oxygen.
I'd then attach an air pump to the tube, and plant my baby. 
It would be noisy, yes, but i doubt it'd have negative consequences.
Please correct me if i'm wrong about this :)
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Giving it a second thought, it would work better if a timer set to like 10 mins per hour attached. 
In this way:
- You would prevent your soil from drying up too quickly
- You would prevent mold or gnats formation
- You'd still supply a good amount of oxygen directly to the roots.

- Alternatively, you could use the same tube for feeding. You would give feeding equally in all the soil without caring for proper distribution.
- You'd have to clean the tube with fresh water afterwards to prevent, indeed, rotting or mold.

We could call those TechPots hehehehe

Post Post scriptum:
- You wouldn't be able to transplant, so the starting pot would also be your final.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, ShaggyGrower said:

Just came across your thread. Very amusing in a nice way and enjoying your battles which you seem to be getting on top of now.  I'm in the middle of flowering on my first grow so also learning.   Good luck!

Regs, ShaggyGrower


Heyo,

Thank you, i try to write as detailed as possible. That never happens, i'm always high when i write ;)
I'll follow your thread greedily if you have opened one!
And yes, war against bugs and mites! Those fuckers have their days counted.

Peace 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Little but not so little update:

I've watered my girls without nutes this time, following Cannabissapean and slimjim's tips.
These are the Runoffs:

S1 got 6,1
S2 got 6,1
S3 got 5,6

I've noticed that S3 pumped a whole air chamber out when i watered her the third liter. I managed to squeeze the pot and regain some oxygen. I think that was the "nutrient blockade" i was talking about, and i think next watering she'll have a PH in the 6 range.

Anyway, below the images. I managed to get an upper and a lower shot, so you can see the canopy AND the plant's structure.

S1
59e77ecddde7f_SUB1-13-30CMLST.thumb.JPG.81a12187de4d8dc2c96a369fb13f6b19.JPG

59e77f0ee5f4b_SUB1-13-30CMLSTBis.thumb.JPG.5a5ac715ccca7779788099119e6ce282.JPG

 

S2

 

59e77f1c4e3b0_SUB2-12-28CM.thumb.JPG.b14e728d6ea134098c2c88c4b0b8e887.JPG

59e77f2678090_SUB2-12-28CMBis.thumb.JPG.435a7540046afc7b4880676536e4471f.JPG

 

S3

59e77f355509b_SUB3-12-35CM.thumb.JPG.4d6e7d85c5a6d181c5e5f9c4fc1c1fb3.JPG

59e77f3f87ce8_SUB3-12-35CMBis.thumb.JPG.3a259397187f776a4968c8bb1ecb5095.JPG

 

She's much more leafy than i was expecting. Watching again the old photos shows how much she has improved!

Anyway, i'm also attaching an image of my auto-lst'ed watermelon, that for some reason she loves to grow this way:
59e77f8d0c25e_WatermelonExtra.thumb.JPG.bf464a52512f7e48880bbc06df1ad8c8.JPG


Nature is funny.

Peace!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL, LedCherryBerry. 

 

Your watermelon should be transplanted into the ground now.  And because you used that plastic bottle with ridges and the neck, you'll have to perform surgery to cut the bottle open in order to get the rootball out intact.  Good Luck, Doctor.

 

And yes, LOL, the watermelon will continue to perform its own LST pretty much permanently from here on.  She needs lots of space to grow in the sun.

 

By the way, watermelons and pumpkins like to grow in large mounds of soil mixed with lots of compost.

 

And they don't like to grow UP on anything.  They like to spread everywhere over the ground.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...