ShaggyGrower

ShaggyGrower - White Rhino and BIO Feeds test

290 posts in this topic

4 minutes ago, g22 said:

hi shaggy the yellow paper is to catch mug,... ?

 

It's to catch gnat flies.  M & 3, as well as their other problems, have infestations.

 

Hopefully by keeping the other plants dry, the infestation won't spread to them, which I have a chance to kill off the source.

 

Anyhoo, harvest day for Nebula (other grow) today.  Harvested a few cola's last night and gave them a wet trim.  The rest of Nebula is going to be cut down whole, wet trimmed, and then put in a big cardboard box to dry slowly. 

 

Happy Growing!

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they are  lot of gnats on your paper from where they come you think 

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Gnats put larvae in the soil, and if top is well areated, they will look for other entrances... like the bottom holes.
I fought them with Hydrogen Peroxide and Neem Oil (alternating between them), but i would not recommend it to anybody. 
Better asking experts around here, as i too am curious about different war tactics against these little fuckers.

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@LedCherryBerry

I think hydrogène peroxyde is bad for the fungy but i see aptus sell product with hydrogène peroxyde in it but at wich dosage and is it good or not for fungy in the shop i go they sai to me if  it kill the bad it kill the goed to  ?

I think if you want to stay in bio you have to use predator you can find predator in garden center or in growshop 

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15 minutes ago, g22 said:

@LedCherryBerry

I think hydrogène peroxyde is bad for the fungy but i see aptus sell product with hydrogène peroxyde in it but at wich dosage and is it good or not for fungy in the shop i go they sai to me if  it kill the bad it kill the goed to  ?

I think if you want to stay in bio you have to use predator you can find predator in garden center or in growshop 

I forgot to mention i didn't use the HP nor the N.Oil in this grow with White Rhinos.
I had no problems (so far) with them.

I used it in low dosage (3%, using 1 part out of 10 in water) and only soaking the roots (placing the pot in the solution for 10-15 minutes).
Neem oil, on the other hand, was sprayed on the surface.
HP (not medical) at low concentration is harmless and can be beneficial, Neem Oil is a natural pesticide (used in growing).

Not saying they're the best, just saying they're more natural than you'd think.

Cheers!

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2 hours ago, g22 said:

they are  lot of gnats on your paper from where they come you think 

Hi @g22,
Perhaps the pre-prepared media I made before I even popped the seeds.  I don't know, I could guess and guess all day long and still may guess wrong. 

 

All I know is about a week or so ago the propagation tent had a lot of them.  Couple with M & 3 being the only very wet pots (having been flushed on 18th Feb). , I figured it was the media in M & 3's pots.  Can't do a H2O2 flush of those pots until the plants can take it (which they won't be able to now and for a week or two [likely two] at least).

 

H2O2 is bad for the fungi, but if it's killing the gnat vs looking after the fungi, killing the gnats wins it for me.  3% as @LedCherryBerry says.

 

I can grow without lots and lots of (Enhanced)  fungi.  Plants really don't seem to like lots of gnat flies though.  QED.

 

To stop them spreading, there are the yellow traps for the adults, and the other plants are going to be kept dry to very dry, so as not to give a place for any adult gnat flies to lay their eggs.  I think I'll spread some Perlite (the heavy grains, not the stuff that will blow about) on the surface of all the pots.  Hopefully this will break the gnat fly cycle.

 

Aside: Nebula is harvested :)  (on the other thread in a bit).

 

Happy Growing!

 

 

 

 

 

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I've been told by Sir @Cannabissapean to implement the use of a UV light, those used to kill mosquitoes. Gnats go crazy around those... and perish. 
Remember to clean the corpses, as gants love rotting conditions.. even their own corpses.

You need to get rid of them as soon as you can: your plants will be their "best friend" in a week or 2 from when you see 5 or 6 flying around.

Still would not recommend ONLY h2o2, but using everything you've got (strips, that light, h2o2, possibly more airflow impeding them to lay larvae).

If you can, sacrifice some humidity for increased airflow. 

If you spot mites (and i truly hope not at this point), i've been told to use Humidity spikes, along with the most powerful anti-mite you find in your local store.
Of course, if you spot mites, gnats, in blooming.. don't spray on flowers :3


Cheers!

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One litre of Enhancer given to Tri and Bi today at half the recommended dosage (0.5g per litre)  Rather too little than too much.  They where just below their base weights.  Also added an inch of very dry perlite/coco from SS's pot to the top of their (and M & 3's)  pots to hinder gnat flies.  They had a little BioGrow 3 days ago.  When they get to base weight again, they'll get their final dose of BioGrow.

 

Now I have only three large plants (Dutch Dragon, Ice Cream and Jacky White) in the big HPS tent room, I've moved the WR and others into there.  HPS is set at 400w on the ballast.

 

Once all my other grow is harvested (over the next week), I shall have the WR in there under 400w HPS and 135 real watt LED 18/6.  I want some veg stretching.

 

Happy Growing!

 

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Happy families in the tent.  The four WR growing steadily. Tri and Bi look very happy, and M & 3 are SLOWLY recovering.

 

DSCF3938.thumb.JPG.a39e26cd36fbb0c37f029b492b59b13f.JPG

 

The seedlings get a foliar spray of 0.33ec/6.3ph water every few hours to cope with the low RH in that tent.  By how much they're drinking/transpiring, it's going to be 5-7 days before they need any more liquid/I have a chance to feed them anything else.

 

400wHPS (483real) and 200wLED (128real) 18 hrs, and 200wLED (128real) 6 hrs.

 

Gnat fly problem improving.

 

Happy Growing!

 

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Good garden friend :)

It seems that it has been very good for them to eliminate the bad leaves, although they are still plants that may need a great extra time to recover. However, the rest is great.

Regards!

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WR progress:

 

WR_01032018.thumb.png.d00b027e542806ccd436c2393fb4b592.png

 

Happy Growing!

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Hello @ShaggyGrower,

 

Your plants looks better that before, specially the two plants that you defoliate! So good work & good luck for the next step!

 

Have a nce week-end dude

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All happy in the tent.  All plants growing well again.

Hot-swapping has created the stretching I wanted. 

Very little feeding/watering  has got them back to healthy.

 

Just gave Tri & Bi 12.5g of BioGrow mixed into the top of the media and washing in with 500ml of 6.2ph 455ppm water which had added CalMag and Boric Acid added to it.  M & 3 got a tea-spoon full that looked good to my eye (no recommended dose with any meaning, so we're left to guess) and washing in with the same as above.

 

DSCF4122.thumb.JPG.162e66d7b5914f5fefaad93c9b832886.JPG

 

DSCF4123.thumb.JPG.1d80109523d060b5be04aee6d764434f.JPG

 

DSCF4124.thumb.JPG.4f9e8260d607d0ef836dc89bf7ef315e.JPG

 

(That's Dutch Dragon in the background.  Day 77 of flowering and I'm giving it some more days as it's started growing bud again (lockout I suspect) and the trichomes are saying let it go a bit longer - excellent!

 

Happy Growing!

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15 hours ago, I'm Sal said:

These seem to have been in germing and vegging for months @ShaggyGrower, how old are these now?

 

Competition finishes on June 1st so only 87 days remaining and flowering will probably take 70 of those days at the least in less than optimal conditions.

 

Still at the "hot swapping", or whatever you call it, I see. Constant attention but I guess it is hard to break when so embroiled in it all.

 

Anyways, how old are they now and do you have a date for the switch to flower?

 

 

 

They were  all germinated in January some time, @I'm Sal. We could go back through this diary for exact dates and work out exact ages at will.

 

I've no date when I'm going to switch to flower now.  My original schedule has gone out of the window due to my issues with them as young'uns.

 

I'm going to see how Tri and Bi progress before deciding whether to top or not. I'm leaning towards not so I can show a side by side comparison of a bi and a tri leaf WR growing.  Ignoring any recommended feeding amounts and finding a non-dangerous-to-the-plant-amount-that's-not-too-much seems to be a test for these WR looking at some of the other diaries.  M & 3 will likely also not get topped due to their stuntedness.

 

 

 

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With your apparent searching skills @I'm Sal, it should have been a breeze for you to find out my plants ages.

 

I also am not aware of many issue and have not indicated such.  I wrote 'some', not 'many'.  Those words may be interchangeable to you, but they have specificity to me and different meanings.

 

It would have been great if GHS & GHF had told us that the recommended amount of BioGrow, etc, should be a MUCH different amount than written on the packet.  You're saying 0.5g and they recommend 3g.   It would have help some of us who have experienced nute burn due to following the recommended dose.  Perhaps this is part of the Test though - to see what amount each strain/pheno copes best with.  I'd have thought this info was already know, but apparently not and perhaps that is our job to find out for them.

 

When testing turns into wasting money (electricity, time, etc), there's only one winner for me - a full tent by any means necessary and in whatever time frame is required to do that.

 

 

 

 

 



 

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if they sell there biofeeding i think they alrady test it many time before and dont lie on the dosage but with wich medium workit the best now they are many style of growing mineral , organic ,so every style have other technic i have more result with my old technic because i use it more than one time and i made more than one stupid thing in my grow for the contest but i find it very interesent to share with other and in my future grow  iam gone try biofeeding to one plant or 2 with pure coco and try to more water my plant nextime i was not so much at home now iam back  someone say the plant are the reflect of the grower and a big company like that dont gone sell a bad product or lie on the dosage they are always different way to use somthing 

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2 minutes ago, g22 said:

if they sell there biofeeding i think they alrady test it many time before and dont lie on the dosage but with wich medium workit the best now they are many style of growing mineral , organic ,so every style have other technic i have more result with my old technic because i use it more than one time and i made more than one stupid thing in my grow for the contest but i find it very interesent to share with other and in my future grow  iam gone try biofeeding to one plant or 2 with pure coco and try to more water my plant nextime i was not so much at home now iam back  someone say the plant are the reflect of the grower and a big company like that dont gone sell a bad product or lie on the dosage they are always different way to use somthing 

 

The packet says "Soil and Coco" regarding media.  I tried with pure coco (Canna Coco Coir Natural) with the recommended dosage(3g/l) and got burn (M & 3 as results).

 

Recommended dosages are important, especially for this type of nutrient delivery system as once you add too much of this stuff, you're fucked, or need to flush the fuck out of the media to get it out and your timelines go out of the window.

 

With liquid fertilizers you can simply flush it out, with this fertilizer, you're locked into 8-week cycles, so if you see burn at week 5 of veg for instance, you could flush the media to leach those too many nutes,  but then if you add any more you're locked into 8 weeks before it's used up.

 

Perfect grows are wonderful, but they can give a false sense of security.  For me a test is to see how products/companies function when things go wrong.  Much more to be learned from issues, and one can have experience of how much support is offered by the company as well.  I've learned quite a lot about plants issues thanks to the issues I've had with the WR grow, and about different things compared to what I learned with my wonderful (and which gave me a false sense of growing security, ie, it seemed easy peasy)  first-to-know-what-I'm-growing grow.

 

Happy Growing!

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Hi shaggy ok coco / soil  but you have soil with nute other not soil for mineral soil for organic when you start the contest you use a coco that need to be flush with water first other dont need it you get  the burn from the salt in your coco i think so.

you see if you use a ph down from chemical acid or ph down like lemonkike or lemon or not ph the water with soil they are a lot of difference calmag not calmag

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4 minutes ago, g22 said:

Hi shaggy ok coco / soil  but you have soil with nute other not soil for mineral soil for organic when you start the contest you use a coco that need to be flush with water first other dont need it you get  the burn from the salt in your coco i think so.

you see if you use a ph down from chemical acid or ph down like lemonkike or lemon or not ph the water with soil they are a lot of difference calmag not calmag


I used a coco that the manufacture (Canna) said had been pre-rinsed and pre-buffered.  Canna Coco Coir Natural is allegedly exactly the same as Canna Coco Coir Professional apart from Professional is buffered a bit more.  I have had issues with the Natural, but the Professional works great. Perhaps it's another one of those where we need to ignore the manufacturers recommendations and plough our own furrow with their product. 

CANNA Coco Natural

"CANNA Coco Natural is a quality product that meets strict horticultural standards. The purity of the raw materials used distinguishes it from other substrates based on coco. CANNA COCO Natural consists of 45% wood cellulose which ensures that the physical characteristics are retained for a long time. The water/air ratio is 73%/23%. In addition to this the medium offers ideal conditions for cultivation because the coco flakes are rinsed and buffered. This enables the plant to develop quickly from the start of cultivation." http://www.canna-uk.com/coco_natural

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My setup now.  The tent is split in two with a white board.  White board to reflect the light back onto the plants.

 

The extension on the side my propagation tent, which is also my drying tent.  Air is sucked in through that tent then into the big tent and filtered on the way out.

 

DSCF4131.thumb.JPG.631d4ff80ec0aa9a2cabca45f027c6f8.JPG

 

 

Bi has her field LST tied down:

 

Bi_LST_001.thumb.png.4e6cceedd7ecb237ed085939004e05ca.png

 

Happy Growing!

 

DSCF4132.JPG

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I'm still of the idea that Recommended Dosages should be individual:

-Tested on a grand variety of strains;
-Tested on 10 or more plants per strain;
-Tested on a grand variety of grow medias;
-Write a report per plant's average uptake;
-Write a report per media's compatibility with the feeding;
-Write individual strain's recommended dosage;
-Write individual media's recommended dosage.

A part from this, all i can say is that i've been lucky and found my dosage, even tho i got minor burns i still am not explaining (nutes or PH).
My dosage is half the recommended dosage, or just a bit more. I'd say 60% of it.

Not requiring any kind of precision, but at least a range of possibilities.

This being said, i'm not attacking nor defending anybody or anything. Just my opinion on the matter :3

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Please stop with the cyber-bullying @I'm Sal. Your continued harassment and negativity is making me very uncomfortable.

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Enough of the handbags, here's my WR's as of today (under 480rwHPS and 135rw LED).

 

('Tri' - Day 41; 'Bi' Day 38; 'M' Day 48,'3' Day 45 - since breaking ground)

Tri & Bi are working on their 9th set of leafs.

 

Happy Growing!

 

 

WR_08032018.png

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Posted (edited)

"M" (under just LED light).

 



DSCF4144_zoom.thumb.jpg.712e29729596bad77fdb8344689184a6.jpg

 

Happy Growing!

Edited by ShaggyGrower
M, not Bi.
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