LedCherryBerry

WhiteRhino + Feeding Line Test | LedCherryBerry

150 posts in this topic

3 hours ago, jan.gh said:

The perking up or praying is always a good sign in my opinion. The plants look very healthy from the top. If the bottom leaves are still affected, I would personally remove them. ( I don't like yellow leaves on my plants at that stage) but it's like Jose said, they will not recover and become bright green once they are yellow. 

 

Less is more when growing, always keep that in mind. Less actions also means less mistakes can be made ;-) 

 

 

Indeed, i am still deciding wether to flush or not. With the flush, i'm aiming to remove any substance still present in the allmix media, and not to remove ghsc powders as it's useless to even try. But i am also aware that flushing is putting on the plant extra stress, so if i do it, i'd better be extra-careful.

All i'm reading online about that "praying" is that it's the light rack too close to canopy. 
I don't know if it's true or not, but i don't want to risk anything, so i moved up the rack just for safety measures. Stretch should almost be done either way.

I prefer not to pluck them off. Again, it's adding just a little stress. When they fall on their own, they were ready to. At least, that's my opinion, but nothing changes the fact that some leaves are falling.
Of course, with the change of light supplied (18-6 to 12-12) plant should adapt to it and think seasons might be shortening, so i guess some leaves falling are normal.

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Little update.

Highlander's clawing is slowly disappearing. Leaves stopped yellowing and falling, it's been 24hrs since the last one.
Also, the perk-up/praising the sun god stopped. 
The only change done to the setup is the increased rack height.

Now it's early to make claims, but my hypothesis is this one:
Having set the rack at 32cm, plant was getting too much light. To balance the issue, she started sucking up the nitrogen from the lower leaves to sustain the canopy.
The sucked-up nitrogen went in the already nitrogen-rich upper leaves, that started to show signs of toxicity. Plant's last resort was perking up, trying to say "yo, please, sun is burning bruh". By bringing the rack back up, the N need was less and all went back to normal.

Trichomes are starting to develop around and on flowers. Haven't dared touching them, smell should come along in a couple of weeks.
Stretch seems to be done, at least most of it. Got quite lucky with it, as i still got 15cm left for the rack (light source to canopy distance is 41cm, can bring it to 56).
If i'm ever going to do another grow in the future, i should consider buying a better led light. One light. 8 sockets are quite a fucking pain to handle. Boo me, again.

Speaking of lights, has anybody here had experience with COB LEDs? I'm thinking of buying one to give a much full-er spectrum to the plant, not just blues and reds.
Is COB worth the price? Any opinions about it?


Peace!

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In the shop i go they tell me if i buy a led i must buy a cob he tell me heven if i dont buy to him .

for the moment i stay with hps i try to buy a dubble bulb cool cap in the future .

in the shop   they have the MIGRO cob  looks goed i see on an other shop the FLUENCE the fluence look great 😁 all those light cost a lot of money 

20180323_180112.png

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On 20/3/2018 at 8:53 PM, Cannabissapean said:

WOW, didn't know you were having such serious problems.  Yeah, it sounds like a flush is in order.  What I do is I take the potted plant to the bathtub, and I use the showerhead on a flexible hose to gently spray the soil for about 2 minutes.  I repeat after 15 minutes, Then I repeat again after another 15 minutes.  While spraying, if your tub is white, you can see the brownish/yellowish salts and soil chemicals draining away.  Usually after the third spraying, it is running pretty clear.  Then I let the pot sit in the tub to drain for a half hour or so.  Then I return the plant to the lighted tent.  After about 4 or 5 days, I resume feeding at about half to 3/4 strength for the first feeding, then full strength after another 2 or 3 days.


I've performed the flush today, as yellowing came back, even though not as hard as before. Anyway, i am tired to see it coming back, so i did it.
As you said, third runoff was way lighter than the first, so i figured the media was almost clear of that.
Another thing i added is washing the cloth-pot itself. Didn't know there was so much build up on the sides. This is important because cloth when wet retains a lot of water, and if that water is full of nutrients then the external roots risk burn (my guess).
Anyway, plant clawed for a couple of hours (overwatering), and now she's fine. I've got a fan back down pointed at the pot, so that it dries a bit faster.
I'll resume feeding next week, at half the strenght, and then back to schedule.

Let's see how Highlander recovers.

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I am happy to know that the problem is solved, and yes, the excess light is also harmful if you do not optimize more things (co2, nutrients, etc....)

I have used COBS in a small grow cabinet, they are incredibly powerful. But..... you must put at least one cob on top of each plant, its defect is that they do not enjoy the light much, so it is good to know where they will be located.

In a 60x60 cabinet I made a good crop with two 50W cobs each. The osram brand or believe, I don't remember.

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51 minutes ago, Jose.gh said:

I am happy to know that the problem is solved, and yes, the excess light is also harmful if you do not optimize more things (co2, nutrients, etc....)

I have used COBS in a small grow cabinet, they are incredibly powerful. But..... you must put at least one cob on top of each plant, its defect is that they do not enjoy the light much, so it is good to know where they will be located.

In a 60x60 cabinet I made a good crop with two 50W cobs each. The osram brand or believe, I don't remember.


Exactly what i was looking for.
Since my cab is 60x60 and i'm a stranger in SoG method, i will probably always grow 1 plant per cycle, so 1 light is perfect.
Also, 100W is so little compared to my actual 320. 
I'm also considering to buy a regular light, such as a Mars II Pro Epistar 80, but its spectrum is way less fuller than a cob.

If you had both (FS and COB) what would you prefer using? I'm of the idea that a fuller spectrum is more beneficial to the plant than a double-band lamp.. But i might be wrong. 

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Now that the issue is slowly fading away, i have more calm to make moves.

I've noticed clawing is still present, both from N and overwatering, but i guess in a couple days it should be fine (except for N that is still a mistery to me). 
Then, today, seen a leaf falling, got it and looked at it. It wasn't yellow, nor green. It was.. rusty.. bronze.
FUCK! CHLORINE!
Reading Chlorine symptoms:
-Leaf tips and margins burn, turn bronze color (it is happening)
-Young foliage turns pale green and wilts (it is happening after flush)
-Roots are stunted basically forever, but i can't verify it 
-yellowish and bronze leaves are smaller and develop slowly (always had small leaves, dunno if it's genetics)
-Young leaves develop burned tips and margins (some leaves did it in the first 2 months)
NOTE: both severe def. and excess have the same symptoms.

My leaves don't turn completely yellow before falling, they turn bronze! But since the leaf is so dark, the bronze is barely noticeable.

Starting from now, i'll let my water evaporate for 36 hours before using it. 
Haven't done it before, so i guess mine is an excess. Flushing also happened with chlorine, i guess.
If it's toxic to my plant, i wonder what the fuck i'm drinking everyday. Meh.

Peace!

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Day 77, aka Day 22 Bloom. I guess it's time for an update. 


Issues

As of today, i see 1-2 leaves falling per day. It's not bad, but it's not optimal.
Leaves turn light green (compared to their healthy colour) or slightly yellow before falling on their own. 

Spots, instead, appear mostly on edges and tips, and not in the middle of the leaf like before.

Perk-up remains but in lower levels. Clawing is slowly disappearing / it's barely noticeable.


Feeding

Today i fed her a quarter of enhancer recommended dosage (0.25g x LT) as Highlander's still recovering from the flush, but i couldn't miss this feeding as it would've fucked up my schedule too much.
Soil was still a bit moist: on a scale from 1 to 4, it was 1.5. Yet, as said before, i had to feed her. So, instead of feeding her the standard 4LT, i fed her 2.5.


PH spikes

So, since i noticed chlorine symptoms, probably mistaken for a N deficiency/toxicity, i decided to let my water rest for as much time as i have on my hands before feeding it again. Normally, my water sits at 6.7-6.8 PH. Having left it for 36 hours in the watering can, i measured it again to see if something changed (out of curiosity). It was 7.6.
A bit confused, i washed my pen a couple times. Still 7.6. 
I also noticed there was a thin white-ish layer of something, still trying to understand if it's limestone (most probably) or dust. Either way, removed most of it with a strap of toilet paper (no ink on it). Corrected the water to 6.5, and resumed feeding.


Flowers
Buds have grown exponentially in the last week. 
I don't know if it's her schedule, or the flush effects, but flowers have nearly doubled in size in a week. My jaw is on the floor.
I've dared to touch one flower. Smell is definitely piney, with a touch of lemon or some other citrus i can't recon.
 

Pics
I guess it's time for a couple 'o pics.

Highlander's canopy:
WR-1-16Canopy.thumb.JPG.118d8ae115e03553be932ab923094075.JPG

 

Highlander's hopefully lenghty colas:
5abbb563c988b_WR-1-16LenghtyCola.thumb.JPG.deb1ec89fadfb88164ba5a4995c5de2e.JPG

 

Highlander's flower close-up:
WR-1-16Flower.thumb.JPG.956f6dcdd48a6b28ee377a2d1c3164e8.JPG

 

She's getting frosty, this early! 

I'll see y'all in a week or so.
Peace!

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Beautifull plant @LedCherryBerry!

 

I hope ou have a wonderfull flowering, have a nice week end

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Day 29, aka start of Week 4 flowering.


Instead of mounting supports for the plant, i've tied Highlander to herself, twice.
It's basically a lighter version of the nets used outdoors to contain a tree. 
Instead of placing a net above the canopy, i've tied the whole plant with a string, circling it all. 
I've also ordered the supports and they should arrive in a week or so. 


Feeding today was a bit different. I've fucked up with the PH down, so i had to use a bit of PH up. 
Fed with PH 6.4, couldn't bring it to 6.5 as i had little time to. Runoff at 6.4.
The supposed Chlorine issue is rapidly spreading towards other, upper leaves.
I'm not sure if it is chlorine, or if it's a deficiency caused by the flush.
Either way, i'm just hoping she reaches 9th week without leaving a trail of leaves.
To be sure, i added just 0.5ML/LT of Cal-Mag-Micro. The yellowing looks much more like a deficiency now.
Hope it's not chlorine and i can fix it with Enhancer and some extra Cal-Mag here and there. I'll keep the dosages VERY low.


Meanwhile, canopy has totally a different feel.
Stretch is completely over. Plant's structure reaches 83cm, 53cm without the pot.
As I'm Sal said, plant put on about 80% of stretch, as i started 12-12 and she was 30-35cm. 
The buds are starting to take shape, trichome production is amazing for being this early.
What i'm reeeeally surprised about this strain is the low smell she emanates. 
Opening the tent doesn't blast your nose, it just smells.. grassy.
But if you dare to touch one bud.. MAN, that's a strong smell. 
Pine scented, pungent, some citrus i can't recon. 
Who knows if she'll explode in smell later in the blooming phase, but as of now i'm really satisfied with it: it's super ninja.


I guess it's time for a couple of pics.


Highlander's Structure:

WR-1-17Structure.thumb.JPG.5271dd22afde90cf656251d2f59d8424.JPG
Sorry about the quality of this pic, camera didn't cooperate.


Highlander's Canopy:

WR-1-17Canopy.thumb.JPG.0c0fb8b6dbd5cce886c656e91490eec1.JPG

Highlander's colas, thickening:

5ac4b3b81258e_WR-1-17LenghtyCola.thumb.JPG.c39575a08b13e686ef6604146c1770d1.JPG


Highlander's flower close up:

5ac4b3bb00fa6_WR-1-17FlowerClose-Up.thumb.JPG.7f681c3b73fe2da29377477f801ba1c4.JPG


Highlander's Chlorine/Nutrient issues:

5ac4b3be4e8a4_WR-1-17LeafIssues.thumb.JPG.b8952b4f117966085cd052de635f136b.JPG


What do you think about the leaf issues? Any thoughts about it? Had something similar before?
Please share your experiences, i need to know how to treat it.


Until next week.. Peace!

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@LedCherryBerry

Your highlander is very wide and prodictive man :popcorn:

For your leaf i dont know for my problem i think it com from the watering maybe she need to be  more moist so biofeeding  work better and the aktivity too its just my opinion 

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RH levels are fine, ranging between 35 and 45%. 

I've got to say, something changed between today and yesterday.
Leaves have stopped falling, and the affected leaves don't feel like wilting on touch anymore. Instead, they're stiffer and harder on touch, and they're perking up again like nothing ever happened. 
The only thing i changed is that yesterday i added 0.25ML/LT Cal-Mag. 

I stopped feeding the Cal-Mag when people in the forum said it was already present in the biogrow and bloom powders, and that's when the N / Chlorine issue showed up. 

I'll see in the coming days how she goes with 0.5ML/LT Cal-Mag each feeding (except for Enhancer Feeding day).
If the plant stops her madness and leaves stop falling, i probably figured out what the real Deficiency here is: either Magnesium or Manganese.
If she doesn't.. I'll just pray Jah to help me reach Harvest day.


Cheers!

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i just give one time the calmag i stop direct after they say is not needed and i have no more yellowing as you can see 

 

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i just chek the picture of your  canopy your leaf look very happy even no one tipe burning nothing your tent is full of bud you gone be happy with harvest dudde 😁

You gone stress your plant if look to much to perfection if your boss is to much in your back you be stressed to if every thing is in the biofeeding its your soil  need to work not adding chimical or maybe the dose of biofeeding is not enought i think with allmix its not simpel biofeeding 

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I need to apologize to the whole community, i've made a mistake.

Wednesday isn't the start of week 4, it's the start of week 5. 
Raised an eyebrow when i saw the correct date on my schedule, i skipped one week. 
Guess i should smoke less.

Since the issue is not fading away, and is progressing (even if not as fast as before), i took these 3 days to carefully examine with JC chart at hand the fallen leaves, and compare them to deficiencies and such. 
It appears my plant is suffering from a combination of some micronutrients, such as molybdenum and manganese, plus (minus) Magnesium, Phosphorus and Potassium (which are quite a pain in the ass). 
So, 2+2 means that i should've sticked to the recommended dosages.

Luckily, it seems that the plant has reacted to that minor jolt of Cal-Mag-Micro, so that's something i'll keep feeding (apart from enhancer day).
Since she's also plausibly suffering from P and K deficiencies, i'll try to give her 0.5ml/lt of biobloom, just this time. 
If she reacts well, i'll feed it once every 2 waterings. If she looks like she can't take it anymore, i'll stop, and keep with the cal-mag.
I have no other fix to this issue: as i said, right now i'm in the midst of week 5. Adding powders now means a harsher and more chemical taste (if she survives the dosage), doing nothing means to see her consumed bit by bit, each day faster. 

This is the updated schedule:

04/04/18 BLOOM 12 – 5   ¼ /Lt Soil 180W 6500k + 140W FS 12 – 12
05/04/18 BLOOM          
06/04/18 BLOOM          
07/04/18 BLOOM     ¼ /Lt Soil, Cal-Mag, 0.5ML/LT BioBizz Bloom    
08/04/18 BLOOM          
09/04/18 BLOOM          
10/04/18 BLOOM          
11/04/18 BLOOM 13 – 6   ¼ /Lt Soil + 0.5g /Lt Enhancer/ Soil 180W 6500k + 140W FS 12 – 12
12/04/18 BLOOM          
13/04/18 BLOOM          
14/04/18 BLOOM     ¼ /Lt Soil, Cal-Mag, 0.5ML/LT BioBizz Bloom    
15/04/18 BLOOM          
16/04/18 BLOOM          
17/04/18 BLOOM          
18/04/18 BLOOM 14 – 7   ¼ /Lt Soil, Cal-Mag 180W 6500k + 140W FS 12 – 12
19/04/18 BLOOM          
20/04/18 BLOOM          
21/04/18 BLOOM     ¼ /Lt Soil, Cal-Mag, 0.5ML/LT BioBizz Bloom    
22/04/18 BLOOM          
23/04/18 BLOOM          
24/04/18 BLOOM          
25/04/18 BLOOM 15 – 8   ¼ /Lt Soil + 0.5g /Lt Enhancer/ Soil 180W 6500k + 140W FS 12 – 12
26/04/18 BLOOM          
27/04/18 BLOOM          
28/04/18 BLOOM     ¼ /Lt Soil, Cal-Mag, 0.5ML/LT BioBizz Bloom    
29/04/18 BLOOM          
30/04/18 BLOOM          
01/05/18 BLOOM          
02/05/18 BLOOM 16 – 9   ¼ /Lt Soil, Cal-Mag 180W 6500k + 140W FS 12 – 12
03/05/18 BLOOM          
04/05/18 BLOOM          
05/05/18 BLOOM     1/2LT x Soil LT (Flush)    
06/05/18 BLOOM          
07/05/18 BLOOM          
08/05/18 BLOOM          
09/05/18 BLOOM 17 – 10   1LT x Soil LT (Flush) 180W 6500k + 140W FS 12 – 12
10/05/18 BLOOM          
11/05/18 BLOOM          
12/05/18 BLOOM          
13/05/18 BLOOM     1LT x Soil LT (Flush)    
14/05/18 BLOOM          
15/05/18 BLOOM          
16/05/18 HARVEST 18 – 11     180W 6500k + 140W FS 12 – 12
17/05/18 DRY          
18/05/18 DRY          
19/05/18 DRY          
20/05/18 DRY          
21/05/18 DRY          
22/05/18 CURE          
23/05/18 CURE          
24/05/18 CURE          
25/05/18 CURE          
26/05/18 CURE          
27/05/18 CURE          
28/05/18 CURE          
29/05/18 CURE          
30/05/18 CURE          
31/05/18 TEST          

 

Note that i'm calculating 11 weeks, but i'm well aware she actually takes between 9 and 10 weeks to complete flowering. 
I added that extra week only to see how many days of margin i actually have before chopping her down.
Since White Rhino should be a heavy THC yielder, if i can, i'll try to get every last bit out of it.
If Highlander looks done at the end of week 9, i'll chop her down then. 

No regrets.


Until wednesday.. Peace!

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Yes, it should also be remembered that during flowering, many genetics put their leaves yellow, they end up consuming them (PK).

Was chlorine really your initial problem? Have you noticed any improvement?

Greetings

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Start of week 6. Update time.


It seems i finally found the fix to the whole bunch of issues that i encountered in these last 2-3 weeks. 
In the last weeks, the first issue to show up was both a N deficiency and toxicity, at the same time.
Secondly, i thought it was caused by chlorine. When fixing chlorine, other deficiencies showed up, like the Magnesium and Manganese.
In the end, i thought it all was caused by my nutrient dosages, which were from half to 2/3rds the recommended dosages.


What changed?
During last feeding, i realized (while i was feeding the extra bio-bloom) that my water PH changes because of the release of limestone.
And then the thought hit me like a hammer on your testicles. 
When i flushed, i didn't change the water PH, nor i waited for both chlorine or limestone to evaporate/be released.
I just flushed.. And now i'm pretty convinced i've got an overabundance of limestone in my soil.
This overabundance changes Soil PH over time. 


So, to test it out, when i watered with the BioBloom, i measured runoff as soon as it got in the saucer, and it was 6.5.
But, knowing limestone needs time to release, i thought of this: water passes through surface, mixes with limestone present in the soil, runoff water comes mixed with limestone.
I let the water in the saucer sit for a couple of hours, and to my sad surpirse, when i measured it again, it was sitting at 7.2PH. Exactly what i was fearing.
6.5 -> 7.2, means the soil was at 7.9PH.


The day after the BioBloom feeding, i decided to perform a microflush, basically re-watered in 24Hrs, with water PH'ed at 5.4.
Runoff instantly measured 5.5, but upon waiting a couple of hours, PH was sitting at 6.2. Measured it again some hours later, no changes.
5.5 -> 6.2, means the soil was at 6.9PH.
4 hours after the microflush, the affected leaves perked up and regained their original dark-green/blueish colour (except the affected parts, of course).


Today's feeding happened at PH 6.0, while runoff measured 6.5 (after 1 hour).
I believe soil PH is still above 7, which is not good, but extremely better than around 8.
Next feedings are going to happen always in the range of 5.8-6.2. 
I refixed the schedule to No BioBloom, and Cal-Mag each 2 feedings, alternated with Enhancer:
Enhancer - None - Cal-Mag - None - Enhancer and so on.


Another good thing that i've seen is that the buds resumed fattening, which i didn't see in 10-14 days, due to the wrong soil PH.
Some of the pistils have started turning orange. 


But now, i guess a couple of pics is all we want to see. Enough good-vibez ramblings.


Highlander's Canopy:

WR-1-18Canopy.thumb.JPG.c0786b7292e789d7694c7d1d4f9f2dfc.JPG

 

Highlander's Flowering View:

WR-1-18Flowers.thumb.JPG.ceed48a54ab5144c63bbf2418cf903b6.JPG

 

Highlander's Bud Close-Up:

5ace29abb7de8_WR-1-18FlowerClose-Up.thumb.JPG.e6a09db596d853dbe756a59d197939b7.JPG

 

Highlander's "Trunk":

WR-1-18Stalk.thumb.JPG.fee437667b69d74939e890af8921d0c6.JPG

Just wanted to share the last pic out of curiosity. 
Interesting to see lower, exposed roots change their colour to light overtime.

I'll see in the coming days how the plant reacts to the lower soil PH, but i think that by stabilizing it everything should be back to normal.
Until next update.. Peace!


P.S.: i gotta say i'm pretty in love with the GHS powder feedings. 
A part from the fact they shipped a shit-ton of it for free, they work amazingly. 
I tried the nutrients on the tomatoes i planted in my greenhouse. They were dying, 20cm tall, yellow leaves, no fertilization. 
My dosage was a mere 10g BioGrow, 15g BioBloom, on an area of 120x60, and the tomatoes came back from the dead.
In 3 weeks, they are 1.5mt, flowering, not a sign of yellowing whatsoever. 
Big Up to GHS!

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Posted (edited)

@LedCherryBerry

To know the ph of your soil 

You can also take sample of soil mix it with distiledwater and mesure with a ph pen i have a littel plastic container of 100ml i get it with my ph testor here for soil is 5 part water to 1 part soil 

On internet  they say  1 part water for 1 part soil  so i dont know wich is goed i try one time the 1.5 p water to 1p soil you need to take out the perlite out of your substrat sample to test 

20180412_022101.jpg

 

20180412_112925.jpg

Edited by g22
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I should have a bunch of these plastic containers around the place!
I knew that being a crazy hoarder would've saved me in the future.. heheheh

I'll search for it and test it out. If i can't find it, i'll try with a normal cup, or glass or something.
Cool to know the ratios. 
As for distilled water, again i should have it around but i'm not entirely sure.

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@LedCherryBerry

Yea i show you the picture for the formule you can use a simpel cup  its just need the good proportion of water to substrat in book of my testeur i have a lot of formule but its in german i speak goed dutch but anderstand nothing german just 2-3 word if you no goed see the last formule on the cup is 1.5 part water  to 1 part substrat its the international methode i forgot the name of that formule search on the net sorry 

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Start of week 7. 
Day 102, aka Flowering Day 43.


It seems that i found the true issue behind all of the deficiencies.
Correcting Soil PH stopped abruptly the yellowing of leaves, consequently they stopped falling (even the affected ones).
I now understand what issues are present in my water: limestone and chlorine. 


Chlorine isn't that pain-in-the-ass as i previously thought, just letting the water sit for 48hrs removes it.
As for limestone, i'll need to figure out what to do. Yes, i can buy filters, but that requires additional planning to re-mineralize my water.
Same word goes for distilled water, i need to understand if it's worth using or not.


Anyway, pistils are getting orange day-by-day, and the buds have finally fattened a bit. 
A couple colas reach 4.5 cm in thickness. 


Next enhancer feeding, which is also the last one, is happening in a week (start of week 8).
From week 9, i'll slowly flush (first 1/2 Soil LT, then 2/3, then 1/1, then 2/1).
This is to ensure less stress in the root zone, less chance of rotting/mold, and to gradually release salts and build-ups.


I guess it's Pic-time now.

Highlander's Canopy:
WR-1-19Canopy.thumb.JPG.c5cece46bd27ec22209fb068e11afb5a.JPG

 

Highlander's Cola View:
5ad72841753d0_WR-1-19FlowerView.thumb.JPG.592461bfbeda8494f746b0f5a616db2f.JPG

Highlander's longest cola:
WR-1-19Flower.thumb.JPG.42832e0f7d30f4c0ff8eea490d420438.JPG
(Pic is cut as lower part was too dark)

I'll see y'all next week for the next update.
Peace!

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Your plant is amazing bro.... Once again salute for the good job !

Cheers & respect ! :drinks:

Evo

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They look wonderful, good tails, it will be a good crop,  friend :)

 

 

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57 minutes ago, Jose.gh said:

They look wonderful, good tails, it will be a good crop,  friend :)


I hope so, man! 
Nugs don't look too fat (for the moment), but i'm very aware of their THC content. 
Might not be the best GPW grow out there, possibly one of the worst.. But i can't wait to taste this girl!
I'll just have to wait and see a bit more.. Counting the days.. 20.. 19.. ;)

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Beginning week 8. Update time.

It's been quite a week.
Researching a bit, led me to very different opinions about defoliating in late flowering.
Majority goes for "it harms the plant, stunts growth, is useless, is going to taste like shit" etc etc.
Minority says that "it increases yields significantly, allows better ventilation, increases thc production" etc etc. 
Now, since majority of people actually have no clue about techniques such as manifolding, LST, supercropping -i can go on- i believe the majority have no clue on the topic either. 
My logic says that allowing light to reach lower buds, lower buds will grow more. Simple as that.
As defoliating works in VEG, it should work in Bloom too, if done correctly and not extremely.

So, i've decided to chop off 30% of the fan leaves, both in a healthy and unhealthy state.
I tried to chop off only the leaves that covered lower buds, and lower bud sites, other than the damaged leaves from PH issues.
This is the amount of leaves i chopped:
5ae0709b28ada_WR-1-20Defoliation.thumb.JPG.79cebbb88f007465ef4ac0e3da971dd1.JPG

 

Now, Highlander's canopy looks like this:
WR-1-20Canopy.thumb.JPG.ef57183860f71201bcca1bffe5dfd9c1.JPG

 

While Highlander's structure looks like this:
WR-1-20Structure.thumb.JPG.f4aea74e1c5152359f5ca622bcd4f245.JPG

 

Plant is a little tilted because of the net beneath her pot. I forgot to adjust it before taking the pic.

Now, some eyegasm.
Highlander's flower close-up:
WR-1-20Flower.thumb.JPG.c29dd17714e4257ab0db66bf7cabec96.JPG

 

By looking with a lens, trichomes are 30% orange, 20% amber, and the remaining is still clear.
Pistils are 70% orange, i'd say. 

I believe i'll harvest Highlander mid-week 9, flushing 3 times before that.
Today i fed her with 1G/LT Enhancer, instead of 0.5G/LT. I'm going to start flushing in 3 days either way.

I'll see you all in 7 days or so.
Peace!

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About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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