Great Soil Recipes For Your Maijuana Plants

[lamsbread]

Best Soil Recipes For Your Marijuana

Cannabis Plants For Awesome Results

These are 9 or 10 Great Soil Recipes! Most of the these were found on a British

Columbia Growers CO-OP Message Board & For those of you who have

never had the pleasure of smoking Any of The BC Bud? It's Just About, If Not,

THE BEST MEDICAL MARIJUANA MEDICINE IN THE WORLD!

So I Would Read Up & Use These Marijuana Soil Recipes! Some Name

Brands May Not Be Available Everywhere? So You Might Need To

Substitute Some Local Name Brands.

The Best Soil! Grows The Best Medical Marijuana Medicine!

A quick and easy soil mix would require:

Copied and pasted from - http://www.onlinepot.org/grow/goodsoil.htm

Peace

Lams

[HC01]

nice!!!

[Dust]

Looks good, i know someday i'll have enought time and land to take time to try all those grow technique, alongside with the guano etc..

Thanks for the add

[Romeu9]

You forgot to paste it Lams! Marie turned your head!

edit: I checked the link to try to paste the recipes here, and I just realized it's a mess,

so I now understand why you didnt pasted the recipes..

[Flail]

A quick and easy soil mix would require:

• 5 parts soil. Normal commercial potting soil should be fine.
  
• 5 parts perlite. This enhances aeration of the soil-mix, helps prevent over-watering by increasing drainage and reduces soil compaction. Perlite can be replaced with coarse vermiculite or crushed expanded clay balls (mica, leca, geolite).
  Optional:
  
• 2 parts composted organic matter. This can be normal household compost. If you can find composted worm castings, seaweed or composted manures (chicken, horse) they can also be used for extra kick. Non-composted manures make the soil-mix too 'hot' for the plants and should be avoided.
  

Original recipe - as it was given to me

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix

2 L Bone Meal - phosphorus source

1L Blood Meal - nitrogen source

1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source

3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering

1 tsp fritted trace elements

1/2 - 1 bag chicken manure (steer, mushroom, etc) - nitrogen & trace elements

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.

Revised recipe - after several failures due to bad manure sources, I now use the following recipe. Results have been excellent and the clones seem to take off right away instead of having a slow growing settling in period.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)

8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source

4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source

1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source

3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering

1 tsp fritted trace elements

4 cups kelp meal.

9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.

Substitutions

Blood & Bone Meal - when trying to cut costs - The original recipe was a success, but I simply needed to experiment.

In addition, sometimes not all ingredients were always available. Therefore, here are some possible additions and/or substitutions. Descriptions to follow

Kelp Meal - contains over 62 trace minerals. Good supplement for manure or for reducing the manure content to speed up availability of soil.

Worm castings - excellent source of micro nutrients

Bat guano - excellent for top dressing a week into flowering

Seabird guano

Bugs

Personally, I prefer to simply introduce fungus gnat predators (Hypoaspis miles). Once established, they not only control fungus gnats, but also thrips and mites. When there is no insect food available, they survive on dead plant material, so remain even after pests are gone to prevent future infestations. Actually, since they have been introduced, I've had no pest problems in over a year and I don't filter my intake. I got mine from Westgro (1-800-663-2552) and they have sales offices in Delta, Victoria, and Kelowna.

Update: they did nothing to prevent a mite infestation in summer of '89 and were destroyed in the mite war. They will be re-introduced after mite war is finally over.

On a couple of occasions, I've ended up with fungus gnats with this soil mix. They are more of an irritation than anything but may harm weak or young plants. Some have said that putting a layer of sand on top of the soil in the pots stops the gnats from reproducing. Others can get rid of them by doing a soil drench with diazinon or malathion.

Recycling Soil

I grow strictly organic and I've always reused my soil. I don't sterilize the soil between plantings as my soil is full of microbes and predatory bugs that keep the bad bugs under control. After each crop, I chop up the soil and root balls with the leaves, stalks, etc and let compost for about 3 months. I then mix it up and add about 2 - 3 cups of lime for every 50 gallons composted soil. I also add about 1/2 cup epsom salts, 2 liters bone meal, 1 liter blood meal, 1 liter kelp meal, 1 tsp trace elements, and enough perlite to regain the porosity of the original soil. I used to add a bag of manure, but I was getting fertilizer burn and so have stopped now. As I've been fine tuning this, the plants just keep getting healthier and I haven't had any real pest problems for quite a while.

I know this is a controversial approach and maybe even risky, but it allows me to keep my garden pretty much self contained. I don't attract attention by buying bales of soil every 3 - 4 months year around, or in the disposal of leaves and soil after each crop. It's definitely not for those who want sterile crops and those that use pesticides and chemical ferts. I believe in working with nature, not against it.

Update: After several generations, a nutrient imbalance developed which was only solved by leaching the soil thoroughly. My hunch is that one of the micro nutrients was building to toxic levels. I guess farmers don't get this problem because they have the winter rains to leach excess nutrients from their fields.

Used soil - Reusing soil has a few downsides such as it makes it easier for diseases, viruses, and pathogens from entering your garden. Also peat based soils break down and become acidic. If you fertilize with chemicals you'll end up with salt buildups that will slow growth. Unless you like to take chances, have a good eye, and a good horticultural understanding, you may be better off with staying with fresh new soils. That said;

[Flail]

Recycling Soil

I grow strictly organic and I've always reused my soil. I don't sterilize the soil between plantings as my soil is full of microbes and predatory bugs that keep the bad bugs under control. After each crop, I chop up the soil and root balls with the leaves, stalks, etc and let compost for about 3 months. I then mix it up and add about 2 - 3 cups of lime for every 50 gallons composted soil. I also add about 1/2 cup epsom salts, 2 liters bone meal, 1 liter blood meal, 1 liter kelp meal, 1 tsp trace elements, and enough perlite to regain the porosity of the original soil. I used to add a bag of manure, but I was getting fertilizer burn and so have stopped now. As I've been fine tuning this, the plants just keep getting healthier and I haven't had any real pest problems for quite a while.

I know this is a controversial approach and maybe even risky, but it allows me to keep my garden pretty much self contained. I don't attract attention by buying bales of soil every 3 - 4 months year around, or in the disposal of leaves and soil after each crop. It's definitely not for those who want sterile crops and those that use pesticides and chemical ferts. I believe in working with nature, not against it.

Update: After several generations, a nutrient imbalance developed which was only solved by leaching the soil thoroughly. My hunch is that one of the micro nutrients was building to toxic levels. I guess farmers don't get this problem because they have the winter rains to leach excess nutrients from their fields.

Used soil - Reusing soil has a few downsides such as it makes it easier for diseases, viruses, and pathogens from entering your garden. Also peat based soils break down and become acidic. If you fertilize with chemicals you'll end up with salt buildups that will slow growth. Unless you like to take chances, have a good eye, and a good horticultural understanding, you may be better off with staying with fresh new soils. That said;

I grow strictly organic and I've always reused my soil. I don't sterilize the soil between plantings as my soil is full of microbes and predatory bugs that keep the bad bugs under control. After each crop, I chop up the soil and root balls with the leaves, stalks, etc and let compost for about 3 months. I then mix it up and add about 2 - 3 cups of lime for every 50 gallons composted soil. I also add about 1/2 cup epsom salts, 2 liters bone meal, 1 liter blood meal, 1 liter kelp meal, 1 tsp trace elements, and enough perlite to regain the porosity of the original soil. I used to add a bag of manure, but I was getting fertilizer burn and so have stopped now. As I've been fine tuning this, the plants just keep getting healthier and I haven't had any real pest problems for quite a while.

I know this is a controversial approach and maybe even risky, but it allows me to keep my garden pretty much self contained. I don't attract attention by buying bales of soil every 3 - 4 months year around, or in the disposal of leaves and soil after each crop. It's definitely not for those who want sterile crops and those that use pesticides and chemical ferts. I believe in working with nature, not against it.

Update: After several generations, a nutrient imbalance developed which was only solved by leaching the soil thoroughly. My hunch is that one of the micro nutrients was building to toxic levels. I guess farmers don't get this problem because they have the winter rains to leach excess nutrients from their fields.

http://www.onlinepot.org/grow/goodsoil.htm

[mopman]

Must try one of these on my next grow , Hopefully in 3 Weeks