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Romeu9

How to handle it properly?

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Ok, as nutrients I use those of Advanced Hydroponics of Holland , a specialized three part formula. "The three parts: "1 - GROW", "2 - BLOOM" and "3 - MICRO" can be used to develop your own special formula for growing." as can be read in the webpage.

Here's how to use them, for soil it should be reduced 50%:

programmedutchformula.gif

Since the beginning I always thought that the "1 - Grow" part should be seen as the "N" in the NPK considering the above table, but taking a closer look to the bottles I found this values NPK for each one of them:

1 "Grow" - 25/12/50

2 "Bloom" - 00/50/35

3 "Micro" - 45/00/10

I erroneously thought that at first without checking the NPK values of each one of the bottles that the "grow" part was the "N", the "bloom" was the "P" and the "micro" the "K".... But after seeing this I found that I was wrong, and after all the "micro" have the higher level of "N" of the three!

Ok, so here's my question to you my friends (and please remember I'm a new grower), how in much more proper ways can I use them considering the above NPK values of each one of the 3 parts without always have to check the image above? for example: if having troubles with a N deficiency how to use them or how to use the "micro" if it's realy the case?

Looking forward to your opinions and expertise! :)

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Please take the following in consideration aswell:

The application of Dutch Formula goes beyond hydroponic systems as it can be used for all substrates. All growers, including coco and earth* growers, have seen a substantial increase in their harvest by using Dutch Formula.

(*Earth growers should decrease the concentration by almost a half)

11.jpg

GROW

The recommended combination of Dutch Formula 1, 2 & 3 (fig. 1) during the 18 hour vegetative stage is the best guarantee for high quality results and strong, healthy plants with lush green leaves.

Dutch Formula GROW creates the ultimate conditions for crop production during the 12 hour stage. The application of GROW should be stopped between 21 and 30 days after your plants have entered the 12 hour flower phase.

12.gif

13.gif

BLOOM

The flowering stage is the productive part of a plant's life. Dutch Formula BLOOM is the "nutrition engine" because the high concentration of magnesium and phosphorus helps to create a powerful boost for the ultimate bud.

BLOOM assures that your plants will receive the correct balance of nutrients to encourage the optimum growth of superior quality flowers.

14.jpg

15.jpg

MICRO

You will see that MICRO is the secret for success, supporting the crop during it's complete life cycle. Dutch Formula MICRO consists of a strong mix of chelated micro elements, in combination with unique pH buffers, thus providing the extra power and stability needed for growth.

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Hey tokage, can you give me your opinion?

"Ok, so here's my question to you my friends (and please remember I'm a new grower), how in much more proper ways can I use them considering the above NPK values of each one of the 3 parts without always have to check the image above? for example: if having troubles with a N deficiency how to use them or how to use the "micro" if it's realy the case?" :)

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Thank you tokage.

What I'm trying to know is: considering the NPK values of each one of them, how can I use them without considering the table that is in the bottles and how can I use them just considering the NPK values and the caracteristics of each one, although its a 3part formula.... thank you!

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Hi Rom

First of all its good to understand what NPK stands for

N is for Nitrogen - Its realy the first element that your plants will need as it promotes good vegative growth of foliage so you would want to use this early on.

P is for Phosphurus And its like the 2nd major element of plant growth - infact its quite essential for building healthy roots and the fruits (buds) of your plant - and it will also go a way to help your plants fight disease

K is for Pottasium - This element helps to build strong plants and enables them to fight against disease and helps to also keep your plants healthy.

Generaly you will use N in veg stage and PK in flowering stage

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Hi Romeo,

Use the above nutrients as a base only.

The chemistry of how the roots absorb nutrients is very complex.

Remember in a hand full of soil, there are more micro organisms than the total number of all the people who have ever lived.

How the roots absorb nutrients is still not fully understood.

It is the plants that decide which elements are taken up; or if they take none at all;

If none at all, plants just take up the water, and leave the salts behind in the medium.(hence the need to flush ever now and then.)

All the elements a plant needs have to be in the correct proportions to be taken up my the plant;

For nitrogen to be taken up by the plant, then certain proportions of the other elements have to be present as well.

too much nitrogen can lead to a deficiency say in phosphorus or magnesium.

The feed list is for the veg and flowering stage of growth;

check what each bottle contains, and then if you want to give your plants more calcium, then you may be able to use more micro,(depending on what elements are in it) or else supplement your base nutrient with added magnesium and calcium.

I have a base formula which I supplement with added nutrients that have a specific purpose: zyme(for the roots), silica, vitamin b12 and fulvic acid.

This is to give the plant basic nutrients;

I then supplement that with organic additives, such as seaweed and fish emulsion, rhizotonic and when in flower an organic flower enhancer, as well as beneficial bugs..

This way the plants have a wide range of nutrients.

In the end, all you can do is to make sure the nutrients are there when the plant requires them - it is the plant that chooses which nutrients it will take up, and which ones it will leave behind, but in order to take up nutrients, the elements have to be present in the correct proportions, so that a excess of one does not lead to a deficiency in another element.

happy growing,

john

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Thanks samuelo and sbh!

I was trying to know how to use them if I have some deficiency, for example: wich one of them to use wen having a N def, to ad more of one of them to resolve that and wich dose...

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its very simple friend. just use the grow one when you are in vegg and use the bloom one for flowering. if these are not organic nutrients start at 1/4 strength and go up. if your plants handle the 1/4 strength just fine then move up to 1/2 strength.

i am not sure if you are supposed to mix these all together or not as the chart does show that you do. i wouldnt though. i just realized it says if you are growing in soil cut this quantity of food to give by 50% so stick to that if you are a soil grower.

so just use the grow for your vegging of your plant

use the bloom for flowering of your plant

and figure out how to use the micro nutrients. the micro nutrients will do things for you like control the ph and make the roots uptake nutrients better. and lots of other things. i am not sure on a mixture though for you. also if you have good soil it is already packed with micro nutrients man so you may not have to even worry about that.

hope this helps you out mate

~ Bgb

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With micro nutrients in a 3 part system always add the micro nutrients to the water first and mix it in well with the water before adding the other 2 parts, if not the npk will be locked up and you'll have a nutrient deficiency. hope that helps.

greenthumb

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hi Romeu,

There are two things you can do here and both are as good as the other;

firstly, do as fuzzy said and increase the strength of your grow formula, which is high in Nitrogen. In order words, you use a higher E.C. solution.

Secondly, you can supplement your fertilizer with organic nutrients, which break down slowly, and therefore do not increase the total dissolved salts levels to any great degree if used correctly. Organic nutrients also give the plants other nutrients, such as enzymes and vitamins.

both ways will work, but the second way introduces organics to supplement base chemical nutrients. Adding organics to ensure the plant has all it needs adds to plant vigor, general health and at harvest, taste and smell.

happy growing,

john

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Ok, Fuzzy first: it´s the "3-Micro" that have the higher N value, so I should I do considering that aswell the fact that that same formula have in it chelated ingredients that the others don´t have...

Biggreenbuds: It´s suposed to mix all the 3 parts, in the very beggining of this post I left there a detailed description of each of the three...

N.W. greenthumb: Thanks for the tip, I´ll do that from now on, the Micro first!

John: Adding to the nuts I use and wich we are talking about, I also use the additives from the same brand and they are organic. "Enzymes", for all stages of growth; "Root Stimulator" for the growing stage; "Growth/Bloom Excelarator" for the flowering stage; and the"Final Solution" to flush before harvest.

Wend I opened this post I left a link for the page of the brand, just click where it says "advanced hydroponics of holland" (in blue).

Thank you to all!

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i see that. but im saying thats not how i would use it.

so if your question is how to use just follow the chart you put there its as simple as that

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Thank you biggreenbuds!

I apreciate the time you've take to answer me... :)

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hi Romeu,

Firstly, my friend, do not believe all the nutrient company 's boasts.

There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to growing, and any nutrient company that locks the user into a very expensive and rigid system wants you to think their way is the best way.

When you think that a plant chooses which nutrients it will take up, and as long as all the elements are there for the plant to take up, the growth of the plant is more influenced by healthy roots, and the amount of light the plant gets, as well as carbon dioxide and other factors.

Any nutrient system is designed to work with all plants, and totally ignores individual reqirements amongst plant species and individials within those species.

These all have a far greater influence on growth, but it all comes down to the weakest link in any chain.

No matter how much light etc the plant is getting, if it is short of nutrients then it will not grow well.

I am different in that I will not be chained to any nutrient system.

Plants are individuals, and may differ in their nutrient requirements, and there is a lot more to plant nutrition than merely Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratios;

Moreover, a lot about plant nutrition is not fully understood scientifically;

for example, why do organically grown plants have a sweeter taste and aroma?

No one knows exactly why, but they do.

Do not be afraid to experiment;

that is how we learn by doing things for ourselves and learning from both our sucesses and our failures.

You can not go too far wrong if you are careful and search the net for articles on plant nutrion.

Always watch your plants closely, and they will tell you far better what they need, than any rigid nutrient system.

happy growing, my friend,

john

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Thank you John, that was real knowledge, the kind of knowledge that makes me think about it and learn with it aswell! I apreciate that my friend! ;)

Fuzzy, how do a guy like me, with two plants and a third that in a month will be harvested, does that compost tea with no great expense of euros? :)

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Hi Romeo,

To quote Franco "growers are always taking risks".

This is the case with farming all plants, for all sorts of pests and diseases can attack the crop, or bad weather may devastate the plants.

To grow the weed in most countries is illegal, and this adds even more risk to the growing enterprise than convention farmers face.

To grow the weed is to take a a big risk, and one must become an outlaw to do it.

It is not only the law that poses a risk to our plants, but other people also may come upon them and steal them.

With growing the weed, there are no sure things, no one silver bullet or nutrient that can give you on its own "Big Fat Buds".

Of course,the companies in the business of selling nutrients will boast and promise wonders.

Every plant is different genetically, and is affected by the surrounding environment differently. Plants are individuals, and if you are growing only a few plants, then each and every one counts.

Risk is a part of farming the weed, and there are no hard and fast rules that can be followed, in all circumstances, that will fit every possible growing situation..

A compost tea is just horse shit or other mature mixed with water and left to brew for a few days;

it is then strained through cloth, and then used as a nutrient.

Portugal has farms that would probably give you as much horse or other mature free if you asked them,

You can also buy composted manure at a garden store very cheaply, and make a tea out from that.

There is no substitute for experience;

experience, however, is only gained by taking chances, making mistakes, and learning from them,

as well as from your successes.

I wish you many successes,

happy growing,

john

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