Cultivation Texts by Franco

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The following texts were I believe, posted on Francogrow.com and were translated in to spanish by Fran.GH.

Francogrow.com is sadly no longer with us , so I have translated Fran.GH spanish tranlation back into English using Googletranslate.

Please enjoy these wonderful gem of cannabis information from the great man himself "Franco".

Peace Hunters

Lams

[lamsbread]

Growing hydroponically Indicas.

In Green House Seeds Company we love our sativas, but we recognize the value (medicinal, recreational and commercial) real Indica, with sweet tastes great, incredible productions and short periods of flowering. Indica varieties of our seed bank are incredibly strong plants, low and bushy, well-balanced in flavor and effect, with a strong narcotic, body sensation. Indicas are easier to grow than the sativas, accepting a higher concentration of fertilizer and greater resistance to cold and heat. Any system is good for growing indicas, but always give higher output in hydro systems. Therefore, farmers who are used to hydroponic systems fare well cultivated commonly indicate.

In GHS use many methods to grow in hydroponics (pebbles, plates, coir, perlite, vermiculite, etc..), But the most effective has been in systems of 65 liter containers. We use rockwool flakes as a medium, the type that contains more air. This guarantees a well-developed root system in a short time, the roots to grow through the medium extremely quickly. Before filling the pots with rockwool clean it with a mild solution with pH 5.5 and EC 1.0. Thus the young plants will not suffer a shock at first contact with the medium.

Indicas like to start your cycle with sativas compared to EC (1.4-1.6). Normally 18 hours to grow for 5 to 14 days, depending on the variety and the size of the target plant. Plants such as the Great White Shark and the Church are very bushy and need a good growth to 18 hours to reach the size for production. Other varieties like White Rhino White Widow or are more naturally suited to a method sea of ​​green, with many plants in a square meter. The nutrient solution for 18 hours contains a higher percentage of N to P and K. Maintain the pH at 5.5 throughout the period of 18 hours.

Air temperature keep it between 25 and 27 degrees Celsius during the day and around 18-20 degrees at night, a little higher than the sativas. Lamps also remain a little closer to the plants, to an average of about 60cm. systems using 600 watts. When starting the 12 hour period the pH went up the nutrient solution. 6, and then gradually to 6.5 throughout the process of flowering. This enables the plant to better absorb P and K required for flower development, and low level of chlorophyll in the buds. During flowering the air temperature went up a couple of degrees to increase resin production and accelerate the metabolism of plants. The humidity is also strictly monitored and maintained between 40 and 65% throughout the flowering cycle.

Also the temperature of the medium is strictly monitored to ensure ideal conditions for the absorption of food and no stress. During flowering period started once a clear medium every 10 days using a mild solution with pH 5.5. and EC 0.8 to 0.9. This process removes unwanted salts medium, preventing poisoning and allowing maximum plant growth and formation of the buds. In addition, we use a fungicide controlling agent to prevent attacks of dangerous bacteria and fungi to the root system. A very important element of our cycle is to let the medium dry to a certain extent (50-60% water content), at least once a week before giving nutrient solution. This increases the assimilation of food and maximize flower production. During the last 14 days of the flowering cycle and stop all fertilization medium wash with a cleaning solution with pH 6.0, to remove all waste from the plant fertilizer, improving the taste and effect. For more specific details on the Indica varieties of Green House Seeds Company, we invite you to look at Grow http://www.growhd.tv/ Sessions. You can find information on how to grow varieties of Green House, floor by floor, week to week, from seed to harvest.

Franco.

Green House Seed Company

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The art of ripening

No matter which variety or medium flowering recent weeks are a crucial step towards a good result. The plants are now putting all energies to make the flowers more compact and to coat with the largest resin. At this stage it is very important to raise the fertilization program with high levels of P, K and trace elements high, until the time when the cleaning is performed to remove residual fertilizer buds.

The pH level of the solution will depend on the variety, but it is safe to say that a pH of 6.4 to 7.0 will allow a good maturation of all varieties in all media. EC levels depend on several factors, but generally will be lowered slowly. (The time of the maximum peak floral production, a few weeks before, it is usually the highest EC harvest).

During the 2-3 week flowering resin production is at its maximum and the complex cocktail of cannabinoids and terpenes that characterize the final product is taking shape. For this reason it is important to understand that choosing the time to reap the desired end result depends on taste and effect. Of course, each variety has its aroma, taste and effect which are determined by genetics. However reap a week before or after the final result can influence somewhat.

Once you have the flower clusters are formed and the plant focuses on making compact and heavy buds and resin production, the THC acid starts to become delta-9 THC and delta-9 THC begins to transform and degrade CBN, CBG and other cannabinoids. CBD levels also change during maturation, as well as terpenes.

If you reap a distinct branch of a plant every day for a week, you would discover that the taste and the effect would be slightly different each time.

When the mature grass, flavor and aroma tend to become more complex and sweet flavors more layers after combustion or vaporization. When harvested prematurely taste tends to be more fresh and green, and not as complex (think fruits and vegetables, which gives a similar way). The effect is usually more cerebral and uplifting when harvested early, and physical and narcotic when harvested late.

Most growers agree that it is better to try to grow the grass as much as possible to get a full effect and a complex aroma and flavor, but in some cases (especially with pure sativa or indica) may be interesting to try different times crop to find the desired result.

Another point which fits much is the fact that the sativas tend to mature in a less uniform than Indicas. This has to do with the highest height and having a generally flowering period longer. In pure sativas a typical phenomenon is that the lower branches tend to finish earlier, while the top of the plant still produces new flower clusters. The best way to deal with this delay in maturation is harvested in two steps, first by cutting the lower branches and leaving an extra week or so for the rest of the plant.

If the desired result is to get as resin and more aroma and flavor, it is possible to shorten the duration of the day to 11 or 10 hours of light during the last week of ripening. Thus treated plants completed their life cycle even faster, and the resin will be thicker. But on the other side of the buds compaction may suffer somewhat.

The resin itself may be a necessary factor in the level of maturation. Looking to the trichomes one can discern the level of maturation; trichomes clear and bright indicate that most of THC has not yet degraded, while a more opaque and amber color indicates that THC and CBN is degraded, and others cbg cannabinoids. For a good reading of test samples is different areas of the plant, whereas the exposure to light influence the resin (buds of the lower parts of the plant that receive less light are more commonly less degraded than the exposed ends direct light all the time).

Other factors influencing the production of resin are light, temperature and humidity.

The spectrum red-orange-yellow this more suitable for development of the resin, although the intensity is more important than the spectrum.

Temperature plays an important factor in the maturation of plants as well. The resin production is closely linked to heat, and if the room temperature drops below culture of 18-20 degrees Celsius it is difficult to obtain white buds. Too much heat can also damage the resin production; 33-35 degrees Celsius above the vital functions of the plant are slowed down and becomes thinner resin.

The humidity above 65% also bring problems for optimal production of the resin, and the threat of fungal attack increases dramatically.

Whatever the variety or medium, mature buds is the best way to get tasty and potent herb.

Most companies these days produce fertilizer products to mature, and most of them work well. Try different products on the same range for a true comparison test.

Because the buds, like fruit, are enjoyed the most when harvested at their optimal time.

Franco.

Green House Seed Company

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Drying and curing cannabis.

A cannabis grower is always taking risks. A crop means months of hard work, from the selection of genetics to vegetative growth, flowering, the ripening of the buds and the harvesting process. After all the effort, commitment and expected, has reached the final stage. And now?

After months of risk, commitment and hard work, the crop has been harvested. It's too late to correct any mistakes made during flowering, but it's never too late to improve the taste and effect of your buds implementing a controlled process of drying and curing. Dry farming is as important as, and poor drying process can ruin even the best buds. Healing is a long and painful but necessary step towards the highest possible quality of the grass. Most commercial growers do not cure their crop: they just dry it and sell it. But for the true connoisseur, cure is the essence of everything, the climax to a perfect result.

Dry marijuana, means reducing the water content of the buds to 10-15% depending on what we desire crisp final product. This can be achieved in several different ways, but the best way to get it is to use a room with controlled climate. The room should be bright green using special fluorescent tubes (light laboratory, special green spectrum that does not affect the plant material). The temperature and humidity must be constantly monitored and adjusted, and the air exchange exactly calibrated to the desired volume. Ideally, you will want the widest possible evaporation of moisture in the first three days, and then slow down the process. In the first three days, a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and 55% relative humidity ensure that the shoots reach approximately 30-40% water content. From this point, the temperature should be lowered to 18 Celsius and relative humidity up to 60% rise to delay the drying process. This allows the chlorophyll and other substances leave the buds through evaporation with water. If drying is very fast chlorophyll will stay, and smoking have a bitter taste and an aftertaste of green. The volume of air exchanged in the room is also critical. Must not exceed 10% of the total volume per hour, or it will be too fast. Use a timer and an exhaust duct that can open-close, to regulate the entry and exit of air. In total the drying process should take between 10 to 14 days for a perfect taste.

The taste is not the only variable affected by the drying process. The longer the drying, more THC will degrade into CBN and other cannabinoids. Therefore even in the same range, the effect will vary slightly more stoned high, more physical elevator. The difference between 10 and 14 days of drying is not very obvious to the novice, but it is a world of difference for the connoisseur.

After drying, packaged commercial growers harvest. They like the buds dry to 15% moisture content, this results in a heavier product (more water equals more money). Insiders, on the other hand, like their buds between 12 to 10% water content is increased because the flavor and grass burns better. If the buds will be smoked pure water percentage is preferably lower (up to 8% for good combustion). On the contrary if the grass is to be vaporized, it is better to leave a higher water content (12 to 15%) to prevent easy combustion of the smaller particles to the evaporation temperature. So, after drying is complete, the expert devote one month or two curing. Heal corresponds to un-aged grass a good wine. If the quality of the grass is normal, not worth the effort and the wait required for cure. Conversely, if the buds are highly worth waiting a little longer to get the best of them.

Curing cannabis means pack it in crates or cardboard, pressing it slightly so that some of the trichomes rupture and resin oils and terpenes unten on the surface of the buds. Some growers like to cure their buds in sealed glass jars, but this requires opening the bottles a few hours once a day every few days (depending on environmental factors drying room). After the form chosen package them, leave them in a place with the atmosphere of a warehouse type (18 degrees Celsius, 50% relative humidity and total darkness) for a period of 1-2 months. Go to control regularly to prevent the growth of fungi that damage the product. If you smell musty or ammonia, immediately opens the container and let the buds dry in a warmer environment for a couple of hours before continuing with the curing process.

Curing is very difficult and should be attempted with small productions first. One see that the technique has been mastered, higher yields can be made.

Curing cannabis flavor intensity increased slowly but evenly and lower the THC for other cannabinoids. The balloon of a cured grass is always deep and introspective, almost becoming a tool of meditation and inner vision in some cases. The flavor gets much more complexity and refinement, gaining in depth and variation in prices.

The cured buds always look slightly brown and have a typical smell, one that true smoking love you from the bottom of their souls. As a very good wine, there is something unique in a well-seasoned crop.

Frank

Green House Seed Company

[lamsbread]

Harvesting.

The harvest is the culmination of an intense period of risk, consolidation and dedication. The combination of these factors contribute to a special moment for any grower, from novice to expert to master. After taking care of the plants for 3 or 4 months (and sometimes longer, depending on the genetic and the logistics of the operation), the result of all this effort is clearly visible, and almost ready to be enjoyed.

Two separate steps to test your buds farmer: harvesting and drying. Both steps are crucial for obtaining a high quality product. No matter how good the bud, if the harvest and drying are done wrong everything can be ruined or even worse, lost.

A successful harvest begins with a good session planned. The technique of harvesting and logistics depend on several factors, and all must be taken into account: crop size, risk factor, provided drying method, manicures, and other minor issues that determine how the harvest should be done . The decision of the exact moment when to harvest also should consider several issues: it is better to harvest after a period of darkness, when the plant is not producing starch, and is best harvested when most people are working (for example, in a context Urban: not a fair bank, or when all the neighbors are at home).

Before harvest drying area should be ready and tested, this will be the subject of the next article, the end of this saga of indoor growing, which will discuss the best way to dry and cure is cannabis, but by Now back to the harvest.

Usually the first attack problems concerning the safety of the operation of harvest. In this case the most important factor is the prevention of problems. Fourth light lost growth and odor material losses should be completely avoided. It is always better to harvest after a period of darkness, and ideally one should not use lights during the harvested crop (light intensity damaged the resin anyway). In look, use a common house lamp, one that does not raise suspicion if seen through the window. Concerning the smell, it is important to use the exhaust filter at full power (if the noise is not too high) to get rid of most intense fragrances. The background odor can be neutralized effectively with an ionizer or air purifier. The camouflage the smell can sometimes be very effective. A busy barbecue, for example, is a good way to camouflage smells, just make sure no uninvited guests start showing up out there! Make sure the doors are closed, and the noise is covered by music or TV If you need help of some friends or colleagues, make sure the move to and where it is done in a way that does not raise suspicion.

A look that security has been covered, it is time to plan the harvest. The two possible forms include manicured manicured fresh or dry. In the first case the quality is higher, but the amount of work required is much more with its manicured fresh is the best choice for smaller crops where high quality is the main objective. Furthermore, the manicured Dry is recommended for larger operations where time and productivity are the main target.

The fresh manicured means that each branch is separated, peeled, and then hung to dry. It is always recommended to first remove the large leaves before you start cutting the branches. As always short cuts branches up and down, and cut the main stem an inch above each knot. In this way the stem union with each branch to form a hook hanging where each branch later. Clean fresh buds and requires good timing accuracy because the longer the time that the metal sheets are in contact with the juice of the plant, increased oxidation corrupt the resin. Try to remove the largest possible leaf material to produce a sweeter and smoother smoke. Collects all of the material for extraction clipping resin or cooking.

When we harvest the dry manicure method, the best way is to remove all large leaves, then cut the whole plant to hang to dry. Once you are dry plants, branches and buds will be cut and dried leaves are easily removed. This will cause some loss of resin, and slightly lower end product quality. When dry buds manicurazos is advisable to wear gloves (resin collection is easier and cleaner than the skin of the fingers). Try to collect all the dust from the floor using a plastic coating, for resin removal in the future.

The harvest is a delicate time, but one of the most rewarding too. Enjoy the last days of painful waiting, it will soon be time to try the end result of a lot of effort.

Next month we will discuss the issues concerning the drying and curing buds for perfect taste and effect.

Franco.

Green House Seed Company

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Mixing (the fine art of creating a flavor)

Cannabis is one of the most varied and complex plants on earth, with thousands of different varieties and crosses. Throughout the centuries the great diversification occurring in nature has been exponentially stimulated by human intervention through breeding and propagation. Because this phenomenon is a constantly evolving range of combinations of cannabinoids and terpenes. Many experienced cannabis users recognize this diversity as one of the key factors in your ability to enjoy the taste and effect of smoking cannabis for long periods of time with minimal tolerance. In fact, according to the majority of current smokers, use one variety of cannabis for more than two weeks reduces the pleasure and require higher doses to achieve the desired effect, on the contrary, when there is a regular change in the varieties used, no need to increase the dose to get the desired effect and the whole experience intensifies flavor to a different level.

Even if this wonderful diversity presents smokers a nearly infinite range of flavors and effects, it is rare for people to have access to more than 2 or 3 varieties at the same time, due to the logistics involved and the illegality of the product itself . However, the fine art of mixing and matching can help achieve greater efficiency and effectiveness of use. There are two areas where mixing can increase pleasure and satisfaction: taste and effect. When analyzing how to mix for flavor, it should be noted that each variety of cannabis can be categorized into one of the four basic tastes we perceive, sweet, bitter, sour, spicy. From this point on, it is a very personal work of associating the palate to identify the dominant flavors of a variety. A look that is done, it becomes a fine art be two flavors combine layers that can be improved or complement each other. Now we are leaving the realm of common smoker and entering exclusive smoking lounge sophisticated soul and heart chef sommelier. My personal favorite blends include:

Hawaiian Snow and Arjan's Haze # 2: This is an all-sativa mix, where the flavor of sweet onions Roasted Hawaiian Snow is completely used and supplemented by the pungent spicy incense of Arjan's Haze # 2.

And Bubba Kush White Rhino: I call this the mixture-fruity, because both varieties have a really fruity bouquet and sweet, while the flavors are very different background even so complementary.

Strawberry Haze and Lemon Skunk: here we go with a real fruity experience, the dominant side of lemon perfectly softened by the smoothness of the Strawberry Haze. It's one of my favorites in the morning, when the taste buds on the palate are at their peak sensory.

The other side of the mix is ​​the most complex issue of creating desired effects combining different cannabinoid profiles. It is a very subtle and very personal and medicinal users know all about this. The medicinal properties of cannabis are directly related to the variety and mix different varieties can amplify the range of beneficial effects through the synergy between cannabinoids and also thanks to the ability of the cannabinoid receptors in the brain to benefit from this synergy producing faster and better answers.

It's hard to recommend in this regard, but my personal experience with hyperactivity and sleeplessness have led me to experiment with a few successful mixtures:

The mixture narcotic: White Rhino and Super Silver Haze. These two varieties combined, have the ability to get to sleep very quickly when I'm too stressed to sleep and I am not alone ...

The mixture "partying": Super Lemon Haze and Alaskan Ice. This mixture energizes every cell in my brain, with incredible laughter sessions. It's a boost of energy cannabis and is very good for stimulating appetite.

The mixture "but remains productive Stand": Arjan's Haze # 1 and AMS. This mixture is smooth and yet very "high" (brain activity), with a great long lasting effect that keeps me going for hours. It is to be placed but being productive at the same time.

The best way to find the right mix for your taste or your medicinal needs is trial and error, because the matter is too subjective to make generalizations. If you find a special blend that works well for you, let me know about it by filling out a contact form www.greenhouseseeds.nl

The information will be used to compile a database of personal experiences. Any information that medical science tells us about the cannabis we must discover it for ourselves. It is our right to use a plant and it is our pleasure and our need to use it wisely.

Franco.

Green House Seed Company

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Feminized Seeds: the advantages

Most growers around the world begin their crops from seed. The mother plants and clones are becoming more and more popular, but the fact of the matter is that apart from the Netherlands and the United States, it is rare that the crops are generated from clones. Looking to sell seeds on a planetary scale, it is evident, that in the last 10 years have been feminized seeds slowly but steadily gaining a large market share of cannabis seeds. In some European countries over 90% of sales in both grow shops as through Internet. On the American continent feminized seeds are somewhat less popular in Europe, but this trend is changing rapidly, with a steady increase in the sale of seeds feminized across Canada. Reading the various American and European forums one can easily see that there are many different approaches to the subject, the same type of categorization that one can make between soil or hydro growers, organic growers or synthetic cultivars sativas or indicas can now be made to farmers and growers feminized seeds regular seeds.

But the fact is, feminized seeds were not created for breeders, they have been created for growers. From small growers dedicated to breeding programs for self catering, to growers of a very good tool for producing cannabis in a very effective and efficient. It is a very simple basic concept, but one making all the difference. Both inside and outside, feminized seeds guarantee that space is used as productively as possible, ensuring that each of the plants are producing cannabis and taking up space waiting to be deleted.

Moreover, feminized seeds gives guerrilla growers safer, reducing the number of visits required to the field.

Many myths surround the feminized seeds, most of which are false. Over the past five years as more and more farmers have used in many situations feminized seeds, most of the questions have been answered. It is now clear that feminized seeds are as good as regular for mother plants. Also clear that feminized seeds have a greater uniformity of product on a large scale.

There are different techniques used to make feminized seeds, since hormones investment with STS, producing seeds each company has its own secret recipe. Some are more reliable than others and feminized seed quality can be judged by the number of plants are hermaphrodites. Some varieties are more prone than others to hermaphroditism, but good quality feminized seeds are close to being 100% free of hermaphrodites. Only big stressors (schedules completely irregular lighting, no dark period, extreme intoxication by fertilization) can produce including hermaphroditism quality feminized seeds. In conclusion, the most important factor in choosing seeds is their origin, the professionalism of its producer.

In my opinion, feminized seeds are the future of cannabis production worldwide.

Frank

Green House Seed Company

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Selecting varieties of Green House

The first and most important distinction is made is the choice between growing outdoor or indoor. One see that the decision is made, it is important to develop the right guy for seed purpose. Most cannabis plants can be grown both indoors and outdoors, but the unique characteristics of each of the varieties of Green House Seed Company always guarantee better results in one of two ways. Personal and commercial nature of the operation always will influence the choice of genetics. Sativas are usually have an effect known as "high" (brain) and generally of high quality, are longer flowering. Indica varieties are faster flowering, more "stoned" (physical) in effect and more commercial.

Among the more than twenty varieties now sold by Green House Seeds Company's true indoor champions and true outdoor champions. The Himalaya Gold, The Church and the AMS are the most recommended outdoor plants due to their genetic resistant to cold nights, altitude, fungi, pests and diseases. The origin of the Himalaya Gold is the region of the Nepalese Himalayas and Hindu, and has proven to be an incredibly versatile and adaptable plant in almost any harsh weather or mountainous area around the planet. Farmers in the mountainous regions of Italy and Spain love the Himalaya Gold for its high production and strong sweet indica characteristics. Another true outdoor champion is the Arjan's Haze # 1 with a great production and effect "high" unique sativa. The Arjan's Haze # 1 does well indoors, but outdoor plants can grow to its peak of development and maximum productivity. Moreover sunlight activate the production of a wider range of cannabinoids in the buds, ensuring a truly psychedelic effect. Besides flowering ends in 11 weeks, holding their cultivation possible in most southern European countries as well as in any tropical or equatorial region.

On the inner side of the game, the best plants of the Green House Seeds Company is the new champion of the Cannabis Cup, Super Lemon Haze and the Trainwreck, Lemon Skunk, Cheese and the famous old champions as the Great White Shark, the White Rhino, El Niño and White Widow. These last four varieties belong to the "White Family" and share a common genetic origin. They are lower plants and shrubs with a large bud production and amazing resin production. The bouquet and taste vary considerably, and the effect, the White Rhino is particularly suitable for systems of Sea of ​​Green (SOG), where the plants are kept very close to each other and flowering at an early stage. It tastes sweet and a great narcotic effect that became popular among patients with multiple sclerosis and chronic pain patients. The Great White Shark and El Niño are very popular Indica lovers worldwide. The Hawaiian Snow, the Strawberry Haze and Neville's Haze are good indoor or outdoor plants, but are mostly grown indoors more lake for their flowering period. Sometimes these plants are given twelve hours of light from the very beginning, to keep them low and shorten flowering time.

There are also plants that are well suited for indoor and outdoor conditions, such as El Niño and Super Silver Haze. These varieties act incredibly well in both ways, with some differences in the development of the plant and production. The Super Silver Haze can produce more when grown outdoors, to power the plant develop longer and stronger branches can sustain the heavy buds.

The choice of genetics remains one of the key factors in the success of each grower or breeder and is very important to get as much information before committing to the task.

If you come to Amsterdam Support our Shops and requests a catalog seeds!. We will be happy to advise you what is best for your needs. Or if you live far from Amsterdam to visit us, our shop online checkea www.greenhouseseeds.nl

Frank

Green House Seeds Company

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Terpenes and cannabis.

The Green House Seed Company has started a revolution in parenting providing its customers and anyone interested terpene profiles of all our varieties. Since the 2008-2009 catalogs contain an example of this analysis and the Greenhouse website contains profiles per day of all varieties. It's really an innovative step forward in the approach so far only effect-oriented world of smell and taste, the way connoisseur, "a la carte".

Cannabis is seen by many as a medicinal or recreational drug, but the more subtle aspect of it, being an aromatic plant, often goes unnoticed. The herbs we use in the kitchen are considered aromatic plants because they contain a terpene profile that gives a distinctive flavor. Cannabis is so complex from this point of view that the possible combinations are endless, creating a wide spectrum of aromas and flavors and varieties differ in how they are grown. We are opening a new way of parenting, a new frontier for all growers greedy.

To give you an idea of ​​what a terpene is, a quick look at Wikipedia reveals what follows:

The word terpenes defines a large and varied class of hydrocarbons, produced primarily by plants (conifers and cannabis) and more rarely by insects. Terpenes are a major component in the resin and in oils and extracts produced from the resin. The name is derived from terpene turpentine word. Terpenes function as smell and taste molecules, as well as bio-synthetic blocks for the body construction of almost all creatures.

Terpenes are a component of the resin and essential oils of many types of plants and flowers.

Enough with the science. Let's see how these are affecting cannabis terpenes in the process of aging in the flavor.

The list of up to 35 terpenes analyzed by Green House Seed Company, is a selection of the most distinctive and recognizable, those involved in taste and smell of all varieties of cannabis. A few examples:

Alpha-pinene is an organic compound which is found in the oils of many species of pine trees. Also present in the essential oils of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis). There are two types of alpha-pinene in nature, one more common in European pines and one most common in North American pines. A mixture of the two is present in eucalyptus trees. In the Green House range this terpene is present at its highest level in the Super Silver Haze. So if you like the plants that smell and taste like pine, think of growing this variety, or use it to make crosses.

Limonene is a hydrocarbon, a cyclic terpene classified. At room temperature it is a colorless liquid with a strong smell of oranges end. Named after the lemon because lemon and other citrus fruits contain high amounts of this compound, which is responsible for many of their scents. In Greenhouse varieties is particularly high in the Lemon Skunk and Big Bang.

The Sabinene is a monoterpene is natural and essential oils isolated from a variety of plants, mostly in oak trees. The Sabinene is one of the chemical compounds that contribute to the spicy black pepper and is a major constituent of carrot seed oil. Also present in the tea tree oil in a small concentration. Another look, this terpene is high on the Super Silver Haze and Arjan's Ultra Haze # 1

Myrcene or beta-myrcene, is also an organic compound. It is rated hydrocarbons and monoterpenes. Essential oil is obtained from various plants: bay, verbena and myrcia (which takes its name) and others. Myrcene is one of the more important chemicals used in the perfume industry. Because of its pleasant odor, is occasionally used directly. But it is also highly valued as an intermediate for the preparation of flavors and fragrances such as menthol, citronella and geraniol. It is extremely high in the White Widow.

Many more terpenes are present in the resin and this represents a guide, a useful tool for a more mature type of smoker, conscious about flavor and for all breeders interested in following a particular aroma in their lines ..

For more information, check the website of Green House Seed Company, www.greenhouseseeds.nl. New data is uploaded frequently.

Frank

Green House Seed Company

[lamsbread]

The revolution of the test Green House Seeds

After the introduction of the new seeds colored Expo Bologna, Italy, the Green House Seeds Company is presenting to the world a new test range for cannabis grower help users to make better decisions and to grow and smoke.

Cannabis is used today in applications and medicinal and recreational cannabis users are finding out that the only way to securely identify the varieties, is doing scientific tests.

This need for clarity and consciousness holds the new test range offered by Green House in all varieties of its catalog.

The new test has been developed in cooperation with several laboratories and institutions and are divided into 3 groups: cannabinoid test, test and test DNA terpenes.

Cannabinoids have been tested in the past using different methods (HPLC, TLC and GC) and the goal has always been to identify the amounts of the various cannabinoids in cannabis resin. The gas chromatography (GC) is a type of chromatography in which the mobile phase is a carrier gas, usually an inert gas such as helium or an unreactive gas such as nitrogen and the stationary phase is a microscopic layer of liquid or polymers on a solid support, within a glass column. With gas chromatography traveling solutions Through the glass column in a gaseous state. The interactions of these gases react with the walls of the column (stationary phases coated) and causes different compounds to be isolated. The primary components in the resin of cannabis (THC, CBD and CBN) have been analyzed over the years, but now other cannabinoids are proving to be very interesting for medical uses. So we decided to extend the test to include the CBG, a cannabinoid test used in many medicines around the globe. Cannabigerol, known also as CBG, is a non-psychoactive cannabinoid many varieties found in varying concentrations. CBG is mostly useful for lowering blood pressure and relieving glaucoma, but it is too early to rule out other beneficial effects.

Besides cannabinoid test, complete test performed all our varieties DNA using the AFLP method (polymorphisms in the amplified fragment length). The AFLP technology has the ability to detect smaller variations in the different varieties of the same plant simultaneously. It is also highly sensitive and reproducible. As a result AFLP has become the standard for the identification of genetic variations in varieties of plants, fungi, animals and bacteria. AFLP There are many advantages when compared to other technologies available markers. For Green House Seeds Company is a priority that our customers are assured of the uniqueness and reliable identification of the variety you choose.

Finally, we introduce for the first time in history a complete profile of all our varieties terpenes. You can start breeding plants purely on smell and taste, adding a touch connoiseur really in the way people grow and breed. Terpenes profiles are identified using the "free space" gas chromatograph (that name for a cannabis test!) (Headspace). The "free space" is the one in the bottle sample chromatography. Clearance analysis is therefore the analysis of the compounds present in the gas. Chromatography of free space is used for the analysis of volatile organic materials and semi-volatile liquid and solid samples soda. Common applications include industrial analysis of flavor compounds in food and beverage products and fragrances in perfumes and cosmetics.

Raising cannabis will never be the same again. Welcome to the Green House Connoisseur Club ladies and gentlemen.

Frank

Green House Seeds Company

[Dust]

Thanks bro, yeah sadly francogrow is gone, but most of the articles he had in his site are kind of rewritten in the Article Part of the Website too for those wanting to read more http://www.strainhunters.com/site/index.php/index.html/_/articles/grow-articles/

Thanks Lams for sharing

[lamsbread]

Tips on CUTTINGS Franco.

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The most important factor for success is making healthy cuttings hygiene. A grow room clean and clean tools are essential for success. In my experience, the best way to keep a clean room mothers, is emptied periodically (take off all plants and equipment) and spray it with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2 35%) diluted in water 1 a10, this solution can be sprayed on the walls, equipment, lamps and practically the entire room. After a couple of hours of ventilation lamps can be lit again and relocated plants in place. It's an easy way to kill germs, bacteria, fungi, spores, and almost all parasites or pests (including eggs).

This treatment must be repeated every 4-6 months, depending on the situation. In rooms where mothers are made cuttings regularly, treatment should be repeated more frequently.

The mother plants should be in good shape to ensure good cuttings. The best mothers having 1 to 6 months of age and in full vigor, under 18 hours or more of light per day. It is important to rest the mother plants between CUTTINGS session at least 2-3 weeks to avoid estresarlas. The subscriber must be applied regularly, but not in the 3-4 days before making cuttings, the day before the cuttings out like water the plant with water with the pH balance (5.5-6.0) not containing fertilizer, and make sure circulation fans that are positioned such that the branches maintain a slight movement by the wind, thus maintaining the cells that form the flexible branches and agitated, and this in turn will help root cells are once been cut cuttings and applied rooting hormone.

The best time to take cuttings is after a few hours of exposure to light, when the bio-process plant processes are fully active. Air circulation should be minimized because the dehydration factor is a problem.

Like rockwool used as a medium for rooting cuttings due to the speed and ease rooted control and cleaning means. 24 hours before the start of session CUTTINGS, I like rockwool soaking in a solution of water temperature to 24 degrees, with some Previcur (2 to 2.5 ml. Per liter), a highly effective broad spectrum fungicide , used primarily in the potato farming industry. This prevents fungi to alter or slow down the process of rooting of cuttings. When I make cuttings, try to reduce the time between I do the cutting and the time that the fabric contacts the rooting hormone (gel or powder). By maintaining this airtime ¨ ¨ as short as possible, the possibilities of damping-off (death of cuttings by Pythium fungus infection) are reduced to a minimum. To achieve a good pace I like to position the mother plant to a good height, so I can work faster, making each cutting, wiping the excess leaves, after dipping it in rooting hormone, and putting it directly into the medium for rooting . It becomes a quick, steady and on a good day, I can cut 210 cuttings per hour (3 trays of 72 seedlings).

My favorite tool for cuttings is the double-edged sword of the old school. It is very sharp, sterile and convenient. But it is dangerous, and through the years I have seen many nasty cuts that needed to be cured points, so I always recommend having some practice sessions with gloves before doing it with bare hands (much faster of course).

After taking cuttings and label them put them in a box incubator under fluorescent lights. The humidity inside the dome is about 85% for the first 3-4 days, then slowly lowered to 75% and then 65% to acclimatize. I Like acclimate my cuttings while still rooting for in this way the whole process is faster. I believe from experience that the rooted cuttings all the time with high humidity are weaker and slower than rooted cuttings and heated simultaneously.

Normally used as Clonex rooting hormone, because working with gel is faster, cleaner and less dangerous to health than working with powder products (powders are very fine and highly volatile, and if inhaled toxic to humans. So if you use rooting hormone powder, wear a mask while working).

My personal record rooting cuttings is 6 days, but usually rooted time is from 9 to 14 days depending on the variety. To increase the speed of rooting, there are a few tricks that can be implemented. Among them is the most effective environmental cleaning with a mild nutrient solution after the third day, and use osmosis purified water during the first three days of the rooting process periodically spray the cuttings.

When spraying the seedlings with purified water at regular intervals the first 2-3 days grounded process, the force is diverted to the production mainly root cells. In my experience it's best to avoid paying the cuttings through the leaves, because it slows down the production of roots, if the cuttings are fed through their leaves, there is less need to develop roots to absorb fertilizers. And waiting three days before cleaning the medium with a calibrated solution (5.5 and 1.0 pH EC made with synthetic minerals, ready to absorb) the roots are just poking when they receive their first encouragement to take up nutrients.

Once the cuttings have roots, I like to plant them in the selected media within 2-3 days, thus the force of rooting goes on when the roots are transferred to the rooting medium without slowing growth media against a surface impenetrable (as they remain in the tray for days, once rooted).

Cuttings are the starting point of most crops, and should be produced pointing to the increased speed and force. The timming CUTTINGS the session and preparing the logistics for rapid transplantation are the secrets to a quick and healthy production cycle.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Franco Cheats for mother plants.

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Maintaining a healthy and productive mothers room is based on a cannabis farm high performance. The mother plants should get good care if they have to keep producing cuttings for a long period, and there are a number of tricks, apart from normal maintenance operations, which can help ensure a smooth flow of production.

The quarters of mothers are kept under a cycle of 18 hours. light, sometimes even longer, to promote vegetative growth. Some varieties, when kept in vegetative growth for more than 2-3 months tend to start flowering, or pre-flowers show their vegetative growth slowing. A good way to avoid this is to increase the photoperiod of 18 to 20 hours. day. Interrupted a cycle of 24 hours. day should only be used to revert to the vegetative plants are started florar, and must be returned back to good conservation. If applied to healthy plants in the vegetative cycle of continuous light and eventually will produce stress harmful to plants and cuttings.

The substrate on which the mother plant grow is a key factor that determines the lifetime of the plant. Earth, coconut fiber, rockwool Arlit and are the easiest means to keep mother plants. The land the enzymes and micro life after a period of 2-3 months will die, so it is advisable to periodically refresh the environment by cutting the outside of the root ball and replant using new land. Using this technique it is possible to maintain mother plants in soil for more than one year. Coconut fiber, the Arlit and rockwool are easy to keep clean if done regularly washing medium. The trick when washing is performed at least 2 times to apply the container capacity in liters and slowly pour preventing cleaning solution runs down the sides of the medium, ensuring that pass therethrough. The temperature should be around 20 to 25 degrees, to increase the solubility of the salts.

After washing the substrate is vital to let it rest until it is light and full of air, creating a sponge that bring oxygen to the root system. Then you can continue with fertilization, with the addition of enzymes or micro bacterial life. A good way to feed the plants when the medium is still heavy with water is to apply a foliar fertilization (specific products can be used for this purpose but a synthetic solution diluted with an EC slightly below 1.4 will work too).

The logistics of each room is different mothers, but in most cases it is a good idea to divide the space of culture in an area of ​​"acceleration" and "park". Plants that have to be used in the following weeks to make cuttings can be placed in the area of ​​"acceleration", while waiting to be used in the future can grow at a slower pace in the area of ​​"parking". This system really becomes useful in rooms with a large amount of genetic when rotation is part of the production logistics.

I like to use different types of lights in a room of mothers, because it helps to create the setup of "acceleration" and "parking". For example, in a quarter of mothers of two square meters is recommended to use a metal halide lamp for the area of ​​"acceleration", and some fluorescent lamps for the area of ​​"parking" (the performance of fluorescent tubes has more than doubled in recent years and there are products on the market that use very little electricity). The plants thus can follow a rotation pattern to optimize growth and yield stress avoid many healthy seedlings. Ideally each mother plant should have a period of frequent cuts (2-3 weeks for a couple of months) and then a rest period of a couple of months with less frequent cuts.

The temperature in a room of mothers very important to ensure good growing conditions. Compared with a flowering room, the room mothers should be a few degrees cooler (23-26 degrees). This prevents the death of the bacterial micro life in the soil, while reducing the chance of occurrence of bacterial and fungal infections. The metabolism of growing plants is optimum around 25 degrees during the growing season, allowing a higher ratio for plant cuttings. Feeding a mother plant is a pretty boring routine: the trick is to keep the plants "parked" with a little food regime (usually fertilizer every 2 or 3 sessions irrigation), then increase N-making during the " acceleration ", and stop fertilizing about a week before cutting cuttings. Moreover it is very important that the plants are well watered when cutting cuttings. These simple tricks can significantly shorten the time rooting and increasing strength of roots in young seedlings. The power needs of mothers include a monthly dose of enzymes (make sure the bottle is quite new and that life itself was monitored, or the enzymes will be dead before you open the bottle. Never keep a bottle of enzymes open for over a month, and make sure it is kept in a cool, dark place) and some micronutrients (especially Mg, Ca and Zn) every 2-3 weeks.

Prune plants is another major chore in fourth mothers. Plants should be pruned as needed, trying to separate the branches as much as possible and keep the lower floors enhance growth of the lower branches. A properly pruned plant, at 6-7 months of age, should produce at least 50-70 cuttings per session. Finally, a quarter of mothers should be clean and well organized. Always take the trash out of the room and the tools you use disinfected with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (90% water and 10% H2O2 35%). The room itself must be emptied and sprayed with the solution of water and 35% H2O2 once a year. The solution can be sprayed around the room, including lighting, ventilation equipment and plant table. After treatment to ventilate the room is dry, then turns the lights on for 6-8 hours to clean up any residual H2O2. Then the plants can turn a very clean environment.

Mother plants are the key to a cannabis farm, and need to live longer than any other cannabis plant. They need and deserve the utmost care.

Frank

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Franco tricks on how to clean the substrate (Flushing)

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Most growers use synthetic fertilizers to grow cannabis. This is largely because the synthetic fertilizers are ready for absorption, work fast and are easy to dose. Without embarking compared to organic, there is one big disadvantage: the accumulation of salts in the substrate. As a result, clean the substrate where cannabis grows should be seen as a natural, logical and inevitable step in maintaining a healthy and productive crop. A clean room and clean tools are just the beginning. It is also important to maintain a clean environment where the roots grow, the substrate. The roots that grow in dark, damp environment are likely to develop if certain conditions are met. No matter what kind of substrate is used, synthetic fertilizers produce a buildup of salts and plant poisoning if proper cleaning is not performed. During cultivation, the fertilizer is absorbed by plants in different amounts and concentrations depending on various factors (temperature, pH, metabolism, mineral fertilizer composition). Plants take fertilizer, and the remains are deposited on the substrate and small rocks crystallized salts. This causes an increase of pH and EC of the substrate and the plant poisoning. Cleaning the substrate is a process as one that varies depending on the type of substrate.

In-ground salt accumulation occurs at a slower pace than in hydroponics, but it is also more difficult to clean. Once the fertilization program is underway, will take 3-4 weeks for salt accumulation begins to occur, and a week before it can start damaging to plants. Therefore it is advisable to start cleaning the substrate plants growing in soil around the 5-6 week cycle.

When we clean the substrate is important to avoid over-watering, this means that the cleaning should be integrated into the watering cycles. The cycle dry-wet-dry-wet (sponge effect) is maintained by the plant metabolism at an optimum level. For plants grown in soil, the cleaning is very important at the end of flowering, during the last two weeks before harvest. If properly cleaned, the plants will produce more flavorful buds and combustion factor of the dried material will be improved. If plants are not cleaned properly, the combustion is slower and poor taste, and artificial.

When cleaning the substrate is important to be organized to prevent leakage of water into the grow room. The purpose of the "flushing" is to clean the substrate, and consequently much water flows through the container to the ground, and it is important to drain excess water from the cultivation room, to maintain the good weather (much water cause the room air humidity rises rapidly, bringing all kinds of problems). The easiest way to clean working tables is high, and appropriate drainage pipes. Another suitable form of control cleaned.

In hydroponic substrates (rockwool, Arlit, coconut fiber) the "flushing" is easier to perform because of the greater degree of drainage. The texture of hydroponic media favor cleaned, and also make it more necessary than on land.

When we clean hydroponic media, it is very important to be very precise with the values ​​of the cleaning solution. The EC, temperature and quantity are important factors. The EC of the cleaning solution must be high enough so that the salts adhere to the solution, but not so high as to add more salt. The ideal values ​​are between 0.9 and 1.1.

The temperature should be maintained in the range of 20-24 degrees, to allow the crystals to dissolve salts and delaminate the substrate. If the temperature is below 20 degrees the salt crystals will not dissolve, and if it is above 24 degrees the little hairs on the roots will be damaged.

And finally, the amount of solution passing through the substrate must be at least twice the capacity of the container (eg: 40 lts. Cleaning solution for a container of 20 liters.) In my personal experience, cleaning with up to 3 times the volume is even more effective, provided that the drainage is fast. The cleaning is best carried out at the start of the light cycle to favor the evaporation of excess water and allow to start the drying process the substrate more rapidly thereafter.

Once the substrate has been cleaned, the plants tend to become lazy, and growth slows down for a day or two, but this is part of the game. Once the substrate is dried, growth (or maturation) resumes fast, or even increases.

To monitor the effectiveness doubly cleaned easily measured values ​​before and after the substrate "flushing". First pour some cleaning solution on the substrate. Values ​​measured in the first liquid to drain from the bottom, then pour the entire contents of the cleaning solution. At the end of drainage remeasured. At this point, measurements of pH and EC of the cleaning solution should be similar to what is draining from the bottom of the container.

In conclusion, the "flushing" should be part of any synthetic fertilizer schedule, well integrated into the process. The capacity of the water tanks and drainage should be priority considerations when we design or build a good grow room. This can only improve the performance of our growing operation.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Tricks of Franco in vegetative growth.

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Vegetative growth, also called "vegetable" is the time between periods of seedlings (seeds) or cuttings (clones) and the beginning of the flowering period. It is a transition phase and most growers tend to overlook the importance of this time of cultivation. Many tasks vital to achieve high crop volume and quality are made by plants during vegetative growth: formation of a strong root system, growth of branches, a support structure for the flowers to come, and sheet formation for photosynthesis, to name a few. The growing season may be fast as a few days or as long few months.

Indoors, the growing season is typically kept short to a minimum, for two reasons: the growers want to shorten the total time of the harvest, and keep plants low for an issue of height of the rooms. However, the "vegetable", is when most plants are accelerated, they create new cells at an astounding rate. Cannabis is one of the fastest growing plants on earth, with an average growth rate that can reach 2 cm. a day at its peak. During the "vegetable" there are some very important tips that can improve plant performance. The most important of all is surely enough to allow access of oxygen to the root system, to allow the substrate to dry properly between waterings. The irrigation cycle must be sufficiently spaced and the substrate must have good wicking properties. A plant growing in a constantly humid substrate slow down your metabolism and become lazy. On the contrary, when the roots are exposed to alternating cycles of irrigation cycles and other factors dried (air, lights) to 100%, growth explodes.

The EC for the "vegetable" should be maintained between 1.3 to 1.6 depending on the variety and the substrate used. In special situations (rapid genetic response, hydroponics growers experienced), it is possible to gain a little CD to increase the growth rate, but this requires a very good control in the culture, and experience.

The pH must be maintained around or lower than 6.0. This will allow a more rapid absorption of nitrogen, the most important nutrient for the growth period.

During vegetative growth is also the time to give the plants clear "instructions" on how to develop, based on the needs of each particular culture room. Most indoor growers like to pinch the tip of growing plants (pinch), to divide into two branches growth, this can be repeated many times to obtain a very bushy plant with a massive lateral development and height contained . By dividing the main queue growth (a technique known as super-cropping) and side branches, it is possible to increase the total plant production, maintaining the controlled height simultaneously. The best time to do the "pinch", is after the plant is developed 2-3 knots. An alternative to super-cropping is a network application on plants (SCROG system) and form a flat canopy distance desired lamps. This can be very effective with long distance internodal genetic, or those that tend to stretch a lot.

It is very important to always clean the bottom of the plants, pruning the branches that touch the ground or substrate.

Outdoors is very difficult to control the growth of the plants because the control of many factors (such as temperature or the time of exposure to light) is limited or nonexistent. But there are factors that can be altered positively, how to control the development and shape of the plants by pruning branches and prop if necessary, bearing in mind the heavy load of flowers that will endure and local conditions that may create a problem (such as wind or storms).

Fertilize plants outdoors for the "vegetable" is important, because it is the time when plants build their immune system. The best solution to fertilize outdoor plants during the "vegetable" in guerrilla growing situations is to use slow-release fertilizers, thereby reducing the number of visits required to the location. Foliar fertilization (spraying a nutrient solution onto the leaves slight) external of plants can help if these do not get enough food soil.

Outdoor plants tend to be very large, so it is sometimes convenient to fold and tie them to the ground (a technique known as LST). The best time to do this is just before the start of flowering, when the stems are still very flexible and plants have developed the necessary structure to support the buds. You can use sticks or ropes to secure the long branches, and to take them in the direction you want. Some growers like to bend the long branches to the ground and put a rock on them to keep them down, this is an extreme, but effective example of LST. After these long branches bent down and to the ground, some cuts and incisions made in the plant tissue, just at the point where the branch touches the ground. Finally, apply rooting hormones. The branches will draw strong roots, and become physical extensions of the plant. This trick can significantly reduce the vertical development, and it's great as camouflage and to increase the result of the harvest.

If plants grow very dense shrub or is a good practice to "make some space", pruning some branches and leaves, allowing light and air to penetrate the plant. This will prevent the death of the bottom of the plant and increase production.

And last, but not least, pest control, another key factor in any successful harvest. The pay starts control (and should end) during the "vegetable". Good breeders know how to prevent pest problems by applying controls as a preventative for the "vegetable", instead of fighting the bugs during flowering. Using a synthetic broad spectrum pesticide during the "vegetable" does not leave any trace in the final product, provided that treatment is done early enough in the cycle. With most products, the important thing is to allow light exposure to undo the chemicals, and leave enough time for the plant to get rid of the traces is inside.

Natural increase is the life stage of the plant when a few precise actions can make a big difference in the final result. It's worth keeping it short, but also as effective as possible.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Franco tricks for growing great plants outdoors.

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At this time of year (northern hemisphere) most outdoor growers have planted their seeds or cuttings, and plants are exploiting in full vegetative growth. More and more these days growers have large possibility of growing plants in containers or outer land. As a passionate outdoor grower, I've always enjoyed growing large plants because it is one of the most challenging and rewarding to cultivate cannabis.

Growing big plants requires good preparation, careful site selection, and keep an eye to prevent problems rather than solve them after they happen. For starters, it is always good to start plants in small containers, and transplant as they grow larger. Starting seeds or cuttings in 3-5 liter containers, one container can be transplanted into 20 liters are formed when the rootball principle and then again in large containers or in the ground. This process of allowing the root ball begins to form and then transplanting allows the root system to grow to its full potential very quickly. The root system is accelerated after having formed a semi-PLUG and lateral roots are grown. The depth of the end we found large container chosen will influence the shape of the plant also: large containers and short bushy plants produce short and unable to extend the main root and form the root ball. In contrary, if the container is long, the plants grow taller by going down the main root deeper.

When plants are 50-60cm. high, it is time to clean the lower branches near the ground, and leave 20-30cm. clean stem from the ground level to avoid contact of the blades with the ground. This prevents the animals can climb the plant, especially the leaf-eating, and avoid rotting leaves in the bottom of the plant. In some cases it is good also remove some leaves (especially Indicas Extra dense genetic).

When the plants have to grow very large, it is essential to accelerate the uptake of nutrients from the earliest stages, and allow sufficient N to be absorbed. For this purpose mineral fertilizers work best, but also the organic compost can do wonders when properly prepared. The pH of the irrigation solution should be maintained at optimum levels for growth on land (5.7-6.0) until needed, and making P, Mg and Ca should be injected to form strong stems to support large flower clusters .

The shape of the plants depends on genetics and container, but in order to grow plants that can withstand very large flowers, it is almost always necessary to prune and give some support to the branches. The plants are ready for pruning at a young age, provided they have 3-4 knots, but to grow large plants is best to wait to take 6 or more knots. Cut the main shaft will produce lateral development and makes the entire structure more robust plant. The same can be done if all branches tend to grow very long and be too weak to bear flowers. Any pruning can be performed while metabolism is still in vegetative development. The plants should not be pruned after flowering has begun, because this reduced number of flower clusters and final production. Also, prune flowering plants and can produce traits shockearlas and hermaphrodites.

Draining of the containers is essential to ensure a good cleaning of accumulated salts that eventually occurs in case of mineral fertilization. The drainage also allows good airflow root system, promoting healthy growth. If plants are directly in the ground, it is important to dig a deep hole large (over 1 meter) and put some kind of drainage material in the bottom.

When plants grow very large, it is sometimes useful to confine them in a net pen, so to speak, to create a kind of external box where the branches can support. Another effective way is to shore plants with bamboo sticks, or ropes. Whatever the system, the aim is to support the branches and at the same time allowing access to fertilize plants and controlling pests.

Working with large plants can produce monster crops (up to several kilograms per plant) so it's always good to plan the logistics of harvesting well in advance (cut, transport, drying space, manicured team). The most important thing to remember is that quality should never be ruined by the amount.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Tips on Indoor flowering Franco.

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Flowering is one of the most satisfying phases of any crop because progress towards harvest can be seen, touched, smelled. Plants flower clusters are now developing and there are several factors that can ensure success in quality and quantity.

Inside and out, the goal is for plants as well sit on the conditions, the environment and the farmer. When we work in is important to note that each of the factors depend on the grower, there should be nothing to chance. The ideal weather conditions to flourish with the lamps are lit to a temperature of 25-30 degrees and a relative humidity between 40% and 55%. When the lamps are turned off is normal for the temperature to fall to 20-22 degrees, while the relative humidity around 60% climb. If the temperature difference is greater than 8-10 degrees between day and night, there is a risk that the plant metabolism slows down. Relative humidity should be below 70% to avoid the appearance of fungi in culture. A good way to deal with daytime temperatures is light the lamps as opposed to the light of day. Thus the maximum room should be kept lower, but the disadvantage of this system is that the difference between the temperatures of the day and night will be reduced to a minimum, and this can sometimes lead to problems that actually benefit plants of 8-10 degrees difference between the temperature of the day and night. However, it is better to sacrifice the temperature difference day-night, to finish with temperatures above 35 degrees during the day.

Air conditioning is an expensive option and very unfriendly to the environment, but sometimes it's the only one for growers in hot countries. The benefits are fresh air drying effect while perfect bloom. It is noteworthy that the plants do not like the air conditioning blowing directly on them is much better direct the flow of air to the ceiling, where precipitate, leaving the warmer air to balloon. Thus the spread of cool, dry air, is uniform in the room and not direct to the plants.

Once the weather is perfectly under control, it is worth spending some energy on optimizing fertilizer making. During flowering plants use mostly P, K and micronutrients for the buds and resin production. Decision-N, is still important in the first weeks of flowering, but later must decrease, or the buds to fill with leaves and calyx-leaf ratio will decrease dramatically, creating problems also for manicure. Only with extremely long flowering sativa, decision-N can be kept slightly more to prevent premature yellowing of leaves. To allow the plants slowly take less N and P, K and micros, the pH of the nutrient solution should be about 6.0 after the onset of flowering, ideally slowly rising between 6.2 and 6.6 in soil and slowly rising between 5.9 and 6.3 in hydroponics, depending on variety and stage of flowering. The rule of common sense here is, that the longer flowering have a variety, the higher the pH should be at the end of the flowering process, with sativas 12 weeks, the pH will climb to 6.9 or 7.0 at the end of flowering. The most important micronutrients (Mg, Ca, Zn, Fe) are also treated better if the pH is above 6.0 and these are really important for the formation of terpenes, cannabinoids and resin.

The best way to ensure that plants take up nutrients is if the plants are hungry and thirsty. It's best to create a wet-dry cycle of the substrate, where the dry air allow sufficient access to the roots and wet enough irrigation solution to be absorbed. The least thing they like cannabis plants in bloom is a constantly humid substrate.

Aside normal watering cycle, is important also regularly clean the substrate to remove excess salts. This can be done with a light solution with pH 5.5 and EC of 1.0, so that the salts may stick to low mineral content and dissolved in the solution. The cleaning should be integrated into the watering cycle and after cleaning the substrate must be allowed to dry properly before fertilizing again.

Once fertilization has been optimized, it is good to take care of the other factors that affect a successful crop. Among them, prop flowers and optimize the pre-harvest and harvest. After 4 weeks of flowering plants usually buds have developed enough to start getting heavy, so it is advisable to shore with some system branches (bamboo sticks, rubber bands, yoyos, or any system that prevents the branches from collapsing under the weight of the flower clusters). Depending on the variety, the support can be a major problem or marginal. Large sativas usually need more support.

The pre-harvest, is to remove most of the large leaves of the plant in the last days of the flowering cycle, before cutting to manicurarlas and dry. The pre-harvest helps reduce the amount of green material (water and chlorophyll) at harvest. Once large leaves (those without resin) have been removed, the plants reduce photosynthesis and produce less starch. This leads to more sweet grass that burns better and makes the whole process easier and quicker harvested.

In conclusion, the grower is to identify the weakest points of the culture and improve from there. Curiosity and the desire to improve are key factors for a "green thumb". During flowering, much can be done to ensure a good harvest, and all worth it.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Franco Tips on pest and disease control indoors.

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The major cause of failure in indoor growing operations, small or large, are probably pests. Work in a clean and apply strict rules and logic are the only ways to prevent diseases and pests from damaging your crops. But sometimes even with great care is necessary to struggle with the problem. Prevention and cure are two expressions of the same philosophy: to carefully monitor your crop to prevent problems or deal with existing fast enough and effectively.

Prevention begins with sterilization of growing room before putting any plants inside. The best way to sterilize a culture room is to use hydrogen peroxide (H2O2-35%) diluted 1/10 in water. With this mix is ​​possible to spray the entire room with the lamps off, including all the equipment inside (containers, tables, buckets, drivers, fans, nets, bamboo sticks ...). When pulverices, use the necessary protection (mask, goggles, suit with head protection) and after spraying, wait until this all perfectly dry before starting any electrical appliance. The lights and ventilation should be lit for 12 hours before putting the plants inside. The clean room is just a start. After that comes the prevention plan. Try using sterilized substrates (or pasteurized) as purely organic compost may contain many bugs and is more suitable for growing outdoors, but a nightmare to work indoors. The ventilation air should have an outlet with filter (most mites and other vermin to enter the rooms via the ventilation inlet).

When we bring in plants, it is best to ensure that plants are brought into the room and do not carry any disease (if we start from cuttings) or pathogen free (if you start with seeds). Unfortunately this is rarely possible because the source of which come from plants or seeds does not provide any certification. So it is often the case that the plant itself and bring any problems. As a precautionary step, every fourth young plants should be treated with 3 sessions Vertimec (or equivalent) spray, (produced by Bayer or Syngenta in Europe) to half the normal dosage (1ml.por every 5 lts. Of water). Vertimec can be sprayed every 5 days in 10 days so you can treat the plants 3 times and make sure everything red spider egg or other bugs are eliminated on the spot. It is most effective with all the bugs and eggs also attacked. The active components in Vermitec break upon exposure to light and totally disappear 15-20 days after the last treatment. For this reason, Vermitec should only be used during vegetative growth and avoided in flowering plants, especially after the buds forming resin.

The most common hazards are bugs plants and fungi. Once the plants have completed their vegetative growth and flowering in turn, are more attractive to bugs. Moreover, the substrate is getting old and less air reaches the roots. At this stage, monitor the plants frequently, is the only way to prevent problems. Experienced growers, rotate your plants in the grow room periodically to be able to control each plant individually and avoid leaving abandoned and uncontrolled plants in a corner. If plants are grown in fixed substrates (slabs, rockwool cubes, Aquafarms or similar), are impossible to move, but this should not be an excuse not to check regularly. When we look for problems, it is best to start at the middle and the root system.

Roots should be white, furry, if you turn yellow and brownish are rotting or possibly have a fungal infection. This is very likely due to over watering or lack of air in the root system. The substrate should never smell fishy (unless you use a special organic fertilizer) and should be free of bugs. Mulch flies are common on the substrate surface even in healthy environments, but if present in large numbers, they may be the substrate surface crusting (this should be avoided, otherwise the sweat will be primarily affected.

After controlling the root system is good to take a look at the bottom of the stem, making sure it is free of twigs and leaves that are touching the floor. When this happens, the leaves tend to crack and rot, creating a driveway for fungus and disease.

When we control for the presence of insects and pests, it is good to look at the undersides of older leaves and plant stems. Look for common bugs: ants, whitefly, aphids, mealybugs, mites. And for the most common diseases: Algae, Mildew, Botrytis disease and mottled leaves. Algae for the best there is to deprive them of light (cover the surface of the substrate), while mildew can be treated organically with vinegar or cinnamon oil.

For Botrytis is necessary to use a fungicide, or product, but once it appears it is virtually impossible to get rid of it, so it really is a matter of prevention (control room humidity and risks is the first step). Each of these diseases or pests are being treated appropriately, but the most important factor is to detect the problem early, take immediate action, monitor the success of the process, and evaluate the consequences for not having any bad surprise.

Throughout the Internet today you can find accurate information on pests and diseases, so just a matter of applying common sense and monitor. And these principles go well with any aspect of growing cannabis.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Tips on hunting Franco landraces (strainhunting)

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Hunters varieties (Strain Hunters) are people who can not stop looking for the best cannabis, wherever vallan. Having spent several years traveling with this exact purpose, I think it's time to share a few tips and tricks that can make the difference between success and failure.

I started hunting as a hobby varieties, without even realizing I was doing when I started traveling alone at 17. Back then it was just a tourist looking good bud, like many others. But I realize now that my interest in the social, religious, recreational and biological related to cannabis in different configurations, was a clear sign of my passion for hunting variety. I started collecting seeds from my travels, and my curiosity continued to grow.

Then I started working with Arjan and was already had long occupied in hunting varieties. His collection of native gene was most impressive, and since then our common passion has led to many trips, and lots of variety hunt. Today variety hunt is a worldwide phenomenon thanks to the Internet and TV.

Arriving in a country with the intention of discovering cannabis varieties and native plants, it is always a good idea to have good local contacts in place. This is not always possible, of course, but the greater is the preparation for creating links, the greater the chance to be on track immediately. It is important to read the local news to understand the level of persecution that the authorities are implementing in the area, being capases choosing the right areas and avoid unpleasant surprises. Once our farmers contact has been made, it is good to go to the fields with well reputed local guides. It is always interesting to talk with farmers from different areas to understand how they work and why. Ideally, it is best to plan two trips to the same country, the first planting season to create good links and the second, just before the harvest season begins, to collect seeds and get good photos and footage.

Usually hunters seeking original native varieties, these varieties have been played so inbred, in the same place for a long period of time with little intervention. Most of the time these plantations are located in the more rural and less tourism third world countries, and requires a great deal of energy and desire to reach them. But the real native plants are becoming increasingly rare, because travelers often cannabis genetic exchange and local growers trying to get famous varieties of high quality to make more money in the black market. So even in countries that have for centuries indigenous varieties have now begun to produce small-scale popular varieties of high quality American or European. In South Africa, Jamaica, Mexico and Thailand, local growers are trying to get varieties of cannabis cup winners whose names are cited by tourists from the fourth corner of the globe.

In order to identify the history of a variety in a given area, it is always best to ask people living alone, because usually they have more information and experience. Young farmers tend to be more likely to cross their genetic cultivate crops or imported. The old school growers also tend to implement agricultural techniques of the old school, and tend to save seeds as old guard.

Depending on the level of illegality, corruption and persecution of each individual country, it is advisable to have some cash on hand at all times, and know the numbers of the local embassies and consulates. They may be useful in the least expected moment.

Variety hunt is fun and really helps the cause cannabis. The more people hunting fence, the greater the possibility of preserving indigenous varieties for future generations.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Franco tricks about raising your own varieties.

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Long time ago I began to smoke cannabis, then shortly after I began to cultivate it. And that's when I realized, as many do at that stage, the simple truth is that raising the driving culture which is walking. Since I started growing back in 1989, I began to dream of raising my own varieties. And thanks to my work and Arjan Green House Seeds Company, one day that dream came true. Now I want to share a few secrets about this magical art, a science that goes beyond the measurable information to the realm of feeling, perception and sixth sense.

Parenting is the process of creating and establishing new varieties, and it all starts to get good genetics with which to start. There are many ways of parenting, from simple feature selection all the way to the profiling of terpenes, cannabinoids and DNA. But the basic principles are the same. For the breeder's home, the point is to get good genetics to start, cross them and then select them until the desired trait is. After that the most difficult step, is to achieve a stable manifold through playback of the selected individuals.

The starting material for breeding should be anyone with great qualities and they are easy to identify. If possible, it is better to use regular seeds for breeding home, but you can also do with feminized, although it requires more selection. Breeding should point to a single or select number of features. The larger the number, the higher the risk of missing something in the process. The common sense rule is: keep it as simple as possible.

There are many ways to foster home: some do it for the resin, some for the taste, others for production. Some do so by more than one trait, in which case it is best to select and bring a trait at a time. For example, if I wanted to take the Super Lemon Haze and cross it with a super high production indicates to gain weight without losing the typical lemon flavor, the best way would cross the two, then select from the production, stabilize the trait, and then search for specific taste.

Stabilization can be performed by the technique of retro junction where individuals selected for desired traits are crossed with retro original parent possessing the same trait similar. For example, if a Super Lemon Haze is crossed with a White Rhino to increase production while maintaining the essence of lemon, which is more productive offspring will be cross with retro Super Lemon Haze to increase the lemon flavor.

The stabilization process of a selected cross is more complicated, requiring a large space for checkear a large number of individuals, and this is the reason why only a few seed companies stabilize their varieties. Planting a crop of F1 hybrid seeds to select individuals carrying a desired trait is one thing. Retro cross many individuals selected to stabilize a line is something else. Space is required in order to verify the full range of possible genetic combinations of the population (with the cannabis plant means more than 10,000 units of F1 to find a few individuals carrying the expression of desired traits, and then use them to cross retro with original parental).

Depending on the variety and the crossing, crossing retro needed 3-6 generations before true consistency is reached. For extreme sativas, for example, have to go through many generations before any uniformity is achieved, whereas Indicas that task is a bit easier. What also makes the difference is the degree of uniformity that is desired: especially for sativas, is usually much more profitable to let the phenotypes manifest themselves, so that growers can select those that best suit your needs. With most commercial varieties, is usually more appreciated when the plants are very uniform, to ensure a uniform product.

The point is that home parenting is rarely possible to plant enough seed to really represent the population. Because it uses a small number of plants, find an exceptional individual also becomes a matter of luck and partly "green thumb", or sixth sense.

Do not forget that many varieties champions, were born as mere anomalies in a vast array of individuals. This is exactly what happened with the Cheese in the UK.

No matter how small the home breeding operation in my view is the most interesting, fun and rewarding way to grow cannabis. Creating new flavors and new types of gene pool mixing plants, keeps creating diversity, and most of all keeps the seeds increased circulating among smokers and growers. In short: it is the best way to keep fighting for the cause of cannabis.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Franco Tips on drying and curing your crop.

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The harvest is the culmination of all the efforts made during months of cultivation. Once the harvest is done, it's time to dry and cure the buds to maximize the flavor and potency. Drying and curing are a delicate balance of factors that must be monitored at all times to ensure the event. Drying is the easiest part, while curing requires some experience and very controlled conditions. There are two basic ways of drying: the manicured and not manicured. And there are two basic ways of curing the hermetic and hermetic. That system is adopted depends largely on the purpose of the harvest: commercial growers manicuran buds usually wet, then dried for a short period, to minimize risk and increase productivity by shortening the total time of harvest. On the other hand the people who grow for personal use attempts to maximize the quality and dry and cure the buds until the maximum flavor and effect are achieved.

Let us now examine each option in detail:

The manicure wet-this technique has many advantages: it is easier and faster manicuring buds while still wet, because the leaves are not hanging and the resin is sticky and does not fall. Furthermore this technique allows faster drying because the plant juices are exposed by broken leaves, but the chlorophyll does not break at all with this method, and the final product may be a little bitter. The manicured wet can be done manually (with fingers or using scissors) or with a machine. Today there are many options to trim machines, each perfect for different setups. Major operations require large systems of rotating blades that can handle much, while small operations can be performed either with small cutting machines that process branch by branch.

When manicuramos wet, make sure that the tools are kept clean by applying a small amount of cooking oil to the blades and all metal parts in contact with the resin. The power manicure favors wet on taste.

The dry manicure-this technique is preferred by some growers because drying is slower and softer, allowing more chlorophyll is degraded and the water evaporates. But there is a downside to Dry Manicure: the resin tends to part with the buds when leaves are broken and removed. Dry Manicure priority over power the taste.

Whatever the method used, the purpose of drying is to take the buds to a water content of 12-15% as slowly as possible. If the low water content of 12% the buds will be very dry and burn very quickly, resulting in a rough puff. If too much water is left inside the buds, they burn poorly, the flavor will be green and bitter. Also cosmetic factor is affected by water content: the perfect bud is crispy, but is easily broken and not pulverized.

Once the buds are almost dry, it is time for connoisseurs to go to the next step: the curing.

Curing can be accomplished in a variety of forms, but they all follow two basic principles: hermetic or non-hermetic. Curing means allowing the latter part of slowly drying. Basically a fermentation process involves slow with some oxidation. The THC will degrade into other cannabinoids, allowing a deeper and more lasting physical effect. Terpenes will mix and increase taste and odor.

Let us now examine each option in detail curing:

Curing seal-buds are cured in a sealed must be dry enough to start (about 12-15%) and should be placed directly into a glass jar.

Let the pot is full, but not too prenses buds, only slightly. Close the pot and let it rest in a dark place at constant temperature around 16-18 degrees and low humidity (between 40 and 55%). Each week or less opens the pot and leave for 30 minutes to breathe one hour. Repeat for several weeks, until the product is cured. Try the buds in various stages to see which you like better, this is really a matter of personal taste. The more cures, more powerful and stronger the flavor will be, with a maximum of 6-8 months curing.

Curing seal-This is not the best way to cure high yields. It involves putting the buds in cardboard boxes, with a few air holes through the sides. The buds can be lightly pressed, to break the resin slightly. Put the boxes in a climate controlled environment (temperature about 16 degrees, relative humidity around 45-50%) and monitors each week. Curing with this system is faster and produces more oxidation, so it is advisable to cure for 2-4 months.

Another alternative way to heal is in closets, boxes or cedar, or cigar humidors. Some African tribes in Malawi and Zambia, including cured buds underground. This can be attempted but it is very difficult. The soil must be very dry and should be put on a fine leather bag, dry or in the bowels of a large animal.

Curing buds is the key to a unique taste and effect "connoisseur", and should never be dismissed. The best bud can become common if it dries very fast, while most common buds can become a delicacy if treated properly.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

Franco Cheats on pH.

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There are many ways to grow good cannabis, the way that each grower takes depends on the knowledge, experience and philosophy. Those who dare to venture off the beaten path, and remain curious about new possibilities, usually end up becoming good farmers. When testing new systems, new media, new fertilizers and new genetics, growers can improve the quality and quantity of its output. Because of the illegal status of the plant, there has been relatively little research on how to grow cannabis. Moreover, there has been an abundance of experience, since cannabis plant is further cultivated on earth. Trial and error has been the traditional way of learning for the vast majority of farmers, and only in recent years, thanks to the Internet and cheap air travel, the cannabis community has been able to link and exchange information, and genetic data unprecedented step. This has resulted in an explosion of the cannabis industry in general. Earth, hydroponics, coir, aeroponics, organic fertilizer, synthetic fertilizer, each system has positive and negative sides, and each can result in good cannabis, if done properly.

Of all the factors that determine a successful harvest the most important are: air, light and food. And for the assimilation of food, pH levels are crucial for optimal results. A small minority of farmers are completely organic operations (meaning harvested forest land use, using predators to control pests, and make your own compost only organically produced food) where control of irrigation water pH should be made exclusively using lemon juice (to lower pH) or limestone (to raise the pH).

But most growers use some form of synthetic fertilizer, so I have no problem with using nitric acid or phosphoric acid to lower the pH of the irrigation solution, and calcium carbonate to increase. Most growers need to lower the pH in water solutions, is really unusual to have to upload it. The difference is in the stage of crop development. During vegetative growth, nitric acid works best, while during the flowering period phosphoric acid is the most suitable. This is due to the adhesion that occurs with nitrogen or phosphorus already present in the food.

But the ever-recurring question is: what is the correct pH?

The answer is simple, even so complicated. The easy part is safe levels are anywhere between 5.5 and 7.0. Cannabis can successfully absorb most nutrients when the pH is between these levels, especially if all other important parameters (air, light, watering frequency) to 100%. Of course to optimize the quality and quantity is recommended to keep the pH around 5.5-6.0 during vegetative growth, and increasing it to 6.1-6.5 during flowering. Thus the nitrogen is absorbed better during the growing season, and phosphorus, potassium and trace elements are better absorbed during flowering.

Due to different conditions and optimum levels, it is worth examining some typical situations.

For outdoor guerilla growing, it is difficult to control the pH of the soil. It is best to ensure that the land does not contain too much clay. For the remainder, the only control is trying to balance well the irrigation solution. The best thing is to start under these conditions at pH 5.5 and then move to 6.5 during flowering, and up to 7.0 for the end of the culture. A high pH will reduce the chance of root rot and fungal growth. Inside, really depends on the substrate and varieties.

On land, with most indica varieties, you better start to 5.8 during the growing season, moving to 6.2 during flowering, and finish in 6.4 at harvest. With more sativa varieties is recommended to start at 5.8 and then slowly work up to 6.8 at the end of flowering. In hydroponics, the trick is to remember that the pH of the medium tends to jump too high too fast. Therefore, it is best to stabilize the pH of the medium to 5.5 before starting the growth cycle, and keep it slightly lower than we would on land. Flowering may be performed to 5.8-6.0 and the blossom end 6.2-6.3 should be realized for Indica, and 6.4-6.5 for sativa.

In the game coir is similar to hydroponics, aeroponics while the pH must be stabilized between 5.5 (growth) and 6.5 (flowering) for a perfect assimilation.

Adjust pH to ensure the correct levels including trace elements are absorbed properly, which will accelerate the production of resin. Also ensure that the plants remain green well into flowering, ensuring maximum area available for photosynthesis when the buds are developing.

During my career as a farmer, breeder and seed producer I have met with many farmers who were able to obtain the finest products without controlling the pH of the nutrient solutions. But serious cases were naturally born "green fingers". The vast majority of growers benefit pH control and the application of theory to practice, as we remember that it is always useful to experiment and refine the values ​​to match genetics and the environment in particular.

Franco.

Green House Seed Co.

[lamsbread]

You can't have too much of a good thing, right?

Dust pm me to tell me it is also in the Articles section too. lmao

As i told Dust i felt a bit foolish because i have read the Articles section but couldn't remember where i had read it in the past.

I had to re-translate it with googletranslate from Fran.GH spanish text back into English hehe. well we live and learn and sometimes forget too

No matter where on the site someone reads this , it is great reading, thats for sure.

Peace brother

Lams

Ps Great minds think alike

[oldemarine]

Lamsbread, I find it interesting the Sativa Powderfeeding formula has 41% NH4 Nitrogen which would be considered an acid forming nutrient solution and Franco says a substrate pH of 6.5 in the bloom stage is ideal?

[lamsbread]

when growing cannabis, the plants will use a lot of available Nitrogen and so it is removed from the substrate by the plant, Franco also recommends his 3 flush technique to remove salt build up in the substrate.

Soils can buffer feeding solution to a certain amount ,but hydro is more exacting, which is why it so important to make daily checks and to correct any ph problems, as they arise.

It is always good management to correct the ph of your water to avoid ph fluctuations which can lead to lock out and toxic shock and to take reading of run off water from your pots so you can make amendments/flush as and when you need to.

A lot of time was put into the feeding powders and Franco is the guy to go to for the definitive answer to this interesting query.

Peace bro

Lams