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Brown spots on Dark Devil autoflower


syth
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-Symptoms of the problem: Brown spots on leaves.

-Age of the plant: 79 days.

-Medium used (soil/coco/hydro if hydro what type): Soil.

-Size of the pots: ~24l.

-Temperature Day/night: 16/35C.

-Humidity levels: 20-75%

-Type of feeding (brand etc..): Hesi Bloom Complex, Hesi Phosphorous Plus and AN Overdrive. BioBizz Alg-A-Mic, AN Bud Candy, Hesi Power Zyme and Hesi SuperVit too.

-Watering frequency (quantity and how often): Once since they went outside, ~50l of water.

-Last EC's used:

-PH: 6.2 at the moment. Correcting it often to ~6.5. Checking almost daily.

-Light Power: Sun through a greenhouse.

-Type of light (LED, HPS, CFL...):

-Distance from the plant:

-Size of the room: ~3m height and ~4.5m width, in a circular form..

-Ventilation system: 60x50cm window open almost 24/7. And the door for the hot days.

Journal: http://www.strainhun...oil-greenhouse/

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Looks like cal/mg brother. Epsom salt will fix cal/mg issues right away..

You buds look pretty newly formed,so maybe you can get away with a foliar.

If not I'd just dissolve some and use it next time I water

& If it's not cal/mg, could be potash.

Kelp meal will help you with that. So will molasses :cool:

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Hello, I agree with InternationalGreen, it seems a lack of cal \ mg, which you can correct with epsom salts, you may also find them at the pharmacy, because it is difficult plant store, keep this product in the form of soaking agent for plants, it is fast-acting , and you can somministrase both by radical both for through the leaves, but can not remember how many mg per liter are added. :P

However, this belonging, your plants seem to be going well, have a good bloom.

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She hasn't been in bloom for too long, thought she'd never begin, or didn't get bigger, but now she's fattening up decently fast.

Just noticed that the leaves which was affected by the spots quite suddenly turned yellow over night. Does that contribute to your cal/mg theory?

The spots and lightening is spreading quite fast.

EDIT: I just read that it's very characteristic that the veins remain green while leaves turns yellow, if it's Mg deficiency.

The veins turns darker yellow or yellow together with the leaves on my plant.

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It seems the young leaves remain a dark green.

The leaves that was was like 50% yellow yesterday, is all yellow now.

So it has taken 2days for the leaves to go from green to complete yellow.

I know that autos leaves will turn yellow and die at some point when the buds draws energy from them. But that doesn't happen so suddenly, does it?

My other auto didn't turn out like this. But both are completely different strains. So I might not be able to compare.

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I'll be doing one more Cal/Mg foliar this week before flowering really sets in.

I dissolve a tablespoon of epsom salt in some boiling water, then add that to a gallon of water, and use that as a foliar.

My plants like it last time.

If you foliar, maybe do so really carfully to avoid spraying your growing buds..Might even be to late, I'm not sure.

But you can also water you soil with some epsom water as well.

Could be right, could be wong, but shouldn't hurt to try it.

Good luck bro

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yes it's kind of normal to loose a little leaves when they go in full flowering, but it should loko a little diferent if it was the case and wouldn't be on the tops like this normally. I think too like some of the guys said it looks more like a cal/mag def, or a def caused by the PH lockout lik you said, but if you didn't go on extremes like 7,5 or 5 normally in outdoor it handles a little better those things, but it depends on the soil etc etc.. so anyway try the epson salt i hope it will help you out.

If she is in pots, it seems she is on the pictures, try to check your runoff when you water and see what the values are.

Good luck!

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Will try to get my hands on some epsom salt after the weekend then.

It's actually a pot with the bottom cutoff and placed onto a bag of soil with a holes cut into it.

Was to reduce chances of shoch when transplanted, since she's autoflowering.

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Guest nattydread

Potassium (Kalium) deficiency maybe? It's better to remove the leaves infected with spots, take care.

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Since it doesn't directly get watered it doesn't need to be drained. It only absorbs the water it needs for not staying dry.

Hmmm...wish I had anything else it could possible be but idk...

Potassium (Kalium) deficiency maybe? It's better to remove the leaves infected with spots, take care.

Hey Nattydread, why do you say so about taking the leaves off??

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Was thinking the same.

Nattydread, you do realize she's autoflowering, right?

Not taking any leaves off until they're completely dead.

Would it not stress her abit to pluck the leaves, before they're dead?

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It seems the young leaves remain a dark green.

The leaves that was was like 50% yellow yesterday, is all yellow now.

So it has taken 2days for the leaves to go from green to complete yellow.

I know that autos leaves will turn yellow and die at some point when the buds draws energy from them. But that doesn't happen so suddenly, does it?

My other auto didn't turn out like this. But both are completely different strains. So I might not be able to compare.

I answer to your question (probably)

Obviously, if the nutrients at that point of flowering, are not present in the soil, within a few days you could lose many leaves,

thus in this case, better to intervene immediately.

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Guest nattydread

At 79 days you should be close to harvest. My suggestion would be to remove the leaves selectively, flush. It's your grow so do as you please.

Reminded me something I had read in September 2012 High Times Dear Danko Expert Grow Advice by Danny Danko. Here is full article:

SUBJECT: Taking Off Dead Leaves

FROM: Smokey McBongwater

:read: I've heard from some of my grower friends that it's best to clip off dead or necrotic leaves, but I prefer to let them fall off naturally (letting nature take its course). I believe that by cutting off dead or necrotic leaves, my plants' growth will be inhibited, and they always seem to stop growing (or slow considerably) when I do this. Who is right?

Dear Smokey,

Leaving on dead or drying leaves isn't a good idea at all: They do nothing to help the plant grow and actually hinder its growth potential in a variety of ways. The most important one is that insects will attack plants at their weakest points. This is the reason that sticky traps are yellow: The insects' tiny brains are wired to be attracted to the color of leaves that are beginning to suffer, and these become their home base from which to strike out at the stronger parts of the plant. So my recommendation is to take off any damaged, dying or dead leaves immediately.

Have you flushed? It could also be from over fertilization. I'm not an expert and this is not to criticize your work. Keep it simple.

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Since any stress to the plant will cut down on it's overall lifetime, I don't think it'll be wise.

When I grow in a greenhouse, I have next to no pests at all.

Usually just let my mom pluck the leaves when they get necrotic, since it's a habit of hers. Or if they've been hanging for too long, I pluck ém myself.

Just gave her some new nutes. I hope she recovers now.

Will flush her as soon as she's done with her nute dosage.

She went into bloom pretty late. So she should still have a dozen of days left or so. Might be mistaken, so could be less.

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Sound like a plan! Good luck bro! I wouldn't take the leaves off either, but I wouldn't leave them hanging there dead haha!

I'd be trying to find some common ground. But have you already went after the problem?

What'd you do to solve it?

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Not sure if it's solved yet. But I think it would be from needing nutes, like Mykol76 said. She began growing kinda explosively a week ago.

But I don't think there are enough time to do anything further, before flushing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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