berrystraw Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 I should know the right distance from the HPS light during growing timeand if I should or should not use a fanbut I am not positive and being that tips are slight yellow I am here to ask.details as follow: . first week in growing time (I let her in natural light until now and I started under HPS 5 days agobeing about 20 cm. tall and 8 pair of leaves)- in soil- pot is about 15 litres- temp 24 to 27 day22 night (my night is from 10 am to 6 pm)- humidity around 65% (75 during the night) - in the soil there is a bit of natural feeding, a few wormsand I use green house power feeding hybrids (all in one)- rhe last few days I watered her every two days,now I am going on every three days or more( I was afraid it burns) I spray the top sometime with water.I use once water and the other chemical feeding,I use the maximum quantity for the first timeI added same egg shell for the calcium, just in case- I do not know what is EC and I do not know ph - HPS growing light 250 watts- distance 62 cm.- 15/20 square metres room- big fan i use it only when I do not water it would you kindky let me know ifI should use more fanmodify distanceor watever?thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 the side of the leafs are curling up, nowI lifted the light up 1 cm and start the fan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SukonmiSkunk Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 they look ok to me 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dust Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 well first precuation to take when posible is, do not spray when the light is ON. it can cause some burns on the leaves due to the drops reflecting the light, it doesnt always do but with HPS be careful And with a 250w i would stay around 40 cm during the veg time and maybe a little closer during flowering, but it depends a lot the temps above your bulb, try to put your thermometer exactly where the top will be and check the temp for one day. You can also place your hand and if you feel heat its too close, but its more tricky if you havent done before to know where the limit is with the hand. Good luck man 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SukonmiSkunk Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 when spraying indoors it needs to be done when the lights are on, i know it seems stupid.but youre right about burning, always raise the lights , so you dont accidentally get water on them. Also you must do it in time for the plant to dry out before the lights go off or you risk getting mold spots.a great tip for spraying is .. wait for it.. soda water.. i know right sounds stupid, but i can explain.The soda water HAS to be salt free, theres 2 ways they make soda water, one is with salts.. bicarb soda i think.. the other is just plain carbonated water, like a soda stream.the bubbles are Co2 and the water will hold them to the leaves.. so ofc you need just plain carbonated water, if you got a RO water source then you can definitely use that, also you can ad a little wormjuice in there.. ive even used a bit of resi water like 25% resi to 75% soda water. You dont have to ad anything to the water just plain soda water is fine, and you will notice the difference right away.when i was first told about this.. some 24 years ago i was in the same mind.. thats just crazy.. but believe me, it works and it works well. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose.gh Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Hi mate, Your plants look healthy, look healthy, no problems. The distance between the light (spotlight), and the upper tip of the plant, should be the one you see timely, must measure the temperature at the tip of the plant, not exceeding 27 º half, then up or down will focus accordingly.So, you can have 30 dentimetros, or only 15 feet, away. Everything depends on the temperature in the top bud of the plant. The humidity you have is correct, to the stage of creicmiento. I would not use eggshell or worms or anything. Powder Feeding provides everything you need, the rest is not necessary. I hope you continue with healthy plants and a have a good harvest in the next months!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 very clear, thank you allI keep having yellow tips, but they told me not to worry at this stage would someone kindly give me a suggestion about fan?I use it for avoiding burning, but it lower temperature...is it necessary? (I add eggshell because in the soil there is too much ash... potassium...Iwill not use it next time. worm is because they build gallery for the air and eat rotten material) I also build a dome as I realize is was a bit too young for veg...and I reduced feed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose.gh Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Nice, sure you get good plants! The fan is used mainly to remove some air, so that the plant always have oxygen to breathe. It is also used to lower the temperature or humidity, but its main function is to remove air, so that the plant available oxygen. If armari ode culture, this closed, zip, the fan also helps equalize the temperature inside the cabinet. If you have a good system intraccion and extraction, the fan can be used at the minimum speed. Personally, I use only two small fans, 15w, 20cm diameter, in a culture of 1.5 square meters. Usually it is enough. Fan to prevent burn yolks, is an option when the temperature is too high. It is advisable then climb the lighting, put it higher, to reduce heat. Regards!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertox Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Chill out man ur Plants are fine the curling on the Leaves is only cause they grew in to each other otherwise it would allso occur un the outside Fingers For ur light its not any rule of thumb for that its like the others said all about the Temps in ur Room.Me myself like to have 400W in Veg and have it about 50-60cm above the Plants it gives them maximum Growth with a real good Clima, but for such things u need a real good air exhaustment otherwise it Plants will dry out in notime.For Fans it depents on the Strain, most indicas i deffentetly use a fan for the entire Grow on Sativas mostly only during Flowering. But my rule of Thumb here is as long u have a good in and outtake u start the Fan up as soon as u can not see the Floor anymore if u look fron straight above Remember my advice is NOT any good if the conditions around them are not like i said.good luck mate cheers 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 in fact I have an entire room, 20 square metresand I can open the window this should means that I do not need to use the fan , right?but I am quite worriedwhat is the real maximum temp?on the strawberry video arjan and franco said 27 is the right temp, but do not say the absolute max 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose.gh Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 There is no absolute maximum, there are varieties of marijuana (usually sativa) that can survive even with 35 or 40 degrees Celsius and other varieties as pure indica that if you spend 30 º can start being hermaphrodites by heat stress. The only right is the right temperature to grow, so that the plants do not suffer heat stress, to avoid becoming dehydrated, is about 24 ° - 27 °, that is the perfect size, in my opinion. Personally, I always like about 24 º. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 this is a precious info...thanks anyway I washed the soil with 12 litres water and I hope night time hot (25 celsius) will not disturb the plant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertox Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Well Biologically the maximum heat is 32degrees.At this Point the Plant stopps Groth pretty much completly and focuses on surviving so u really want to keep it under 32degreesOpening windows is something i wouldnt recoment as the Plant lives in a Sterile Room it is very weak for any disseas and Pests, which often come from outside cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 32 degree before red alarm,but risk of ermaphrodytes, okand during night time I am betwrrn 20 to 25, I hope is not too much regarding sterile condition, vertox:they told me that white strawberry is good for difficult conditionsas my house is IN difficult conditions and is A difficult condition initself... I feel lucky because boars stopped in my backyard instead of getting in thebed room, recently 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 do you think those are flowers? the first is a my white strawberrythe second is a daughter of a diesel that I use for experiments 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 I keep having yellow tips, sob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose.gh Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Glad you see the correct focus distance / fan. Those yellow tips, these tips burnt sierra is excess nutrients. Top of over fertilization. You should use less fertilizer. In the next irrigation following water only, to avoid sobrefertilizando continue. Greetings! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 the plant is about 35 cm and I was giving 10 gr for 10 litresI shall reduce to 9 for 10 lt. now she is getting 40 cm to the lamp, but temp keep dropping from 27 to 24because outside is cold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dust Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 i give 1g for 1L only in full flowering or when i make really long veg with the PF in flowering 0.6 0.7 is enough most of the time, and at this age i am usually around 0.6 Have a good grow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 many thanks should I know what is PF? do you think I should add a bit of phosporous?on the strawberry video they say during veg period they give121 the first week and122 the second weekwhile the ibryd pwder is15 7 22 she looks beautiful, at the moment, and she IS growing...a woman would say "I am so exited!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 27, 2014 Author Share Posted June 27, 2014 aaargh!! I flushed her immediatelyit seems only a few small leaves involved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 27, 2014 Author Share Posted June 27, 2014 it looks like if you rubber a pencil on a paper, it looks silver, it reflect light today is touching the big leaves outsideon the lower part of the plant it is only on one plant out of three I found a fungus gnats as a possible reasonin fact I have 80% humidity cause outside in always raining I will try a normal incecticide a maybe I could add same dry earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dust Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 yes it looks like a virus or a fungus maybe which one is another thing, some deficiency look a little bit like htis, but it doesnt shine like paper pencil like yours normally. The Manganese deficiency can turn up like this a little bit, check some info about it and see if it corespond to your symptoms. Good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Ikept light on during night time no water since todaydry completely the earth, cover it with 2 cm of new dry soilstop sprying with waterit slowed down the proceed of pest sure it has something to do with water and or humidity tomorrow I switch off the light and see what happensI do not think is a lack of nutrients because in the soil there was nealry everythingplus the chemical feed I did see a couple of small fly in the past I did not worry beside I believe they used this room for growing beforeand they did not dry up the roomthere is mold on the walls I have too bad condition hereI am not positive I can make it but I start learning anywaythere is so much to learn and is easiest if one do a little experience in the meantime 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berrystraw Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 two more picture of this strange spots on the leavesnow I am keeping the fan on during night timeI suspect that spots correspond to areas that was sprayed heavily with waterwith the light off, with too much humidity and so on it happens only to the plant directly under the light (wtich is flowering light now)while the other two are ok for the moment I read a lot regarding the matter but I did not find any matching suggestion I am also watering from downstairsso the top keep being dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now