Green House Kush Test compared against Kaia Kush, each comparing Short Powder Feeding against Advanced Hydroponics Nutrients by Cannabissapean

[Jose.gh 7,612]

Thanks for all the info, photos and reviews. They look great

 

About clones, I guess everyone has their style. I started years ago with gel, powder, etc ... in short: hormones roots. But long ago I do not use anything, just rock wool and a greenhouse. In 15 days all clones have roots, is just give them a little white light, high humidity and very quiet (not move).

 

Greetings and good luck!

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

What's neat is, as your plantation grows, suddenly there are so many clone-donors available, that things begin to become numerous...

 

@Bam-Bhole, I looked-up that cloning gel from Remo.  Your pricing quote is ~right on the mark.  The problem is that Remo imposes a minimum dollar amount per order, which makes it so that one cannot order the gel without ordering a whole bunch of other products that one didn't plan on buying (or that starter kit) in order to meet the minimum.  That turned me off to his products.

Maybe later.

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

OK Strain Hunters,

20 Jan

The ladies are recovering from their most recent bondage. Here's GHK3 PF.

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

20 Jan

KK2 AH and KK1 PF

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

20 Jan

GHK4 AH

 

then

GHK1 PF and GK2 AH

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

20 Jan

The very successful symmetrical clone-top GHK3-S1.

 

The top of GHK3 PF, where that clone came from.

 

A nice spray of leaves, looking at the top of KK1 PF.

 

Then its stem and a few roots developing from the stem into the rockwool.

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

24 Jan

Today is heavy LST day for the upper-most branches of the GHKs.  They have grown long enough that they can be effectively tied down to the edge of the pot.

 

But first, I will share a trick.  I found it necessary from time-to-time to remove the drippers; it makes it easier to clean away trimmings in the inside of each bush.  But sometimes removal of the 4mm feeder-tube from the 4mm initial Tee results in a jerky shock that could damage the plant or cause the Ton Balls to be strewn about.

I discovered that an adapter 4mm-to-3mm works wonderful as a quick-disconnect in a 4mm tube system.  The 3mm side fits snugly enough that it doesn't leak even under the slight pressure of this feeder system.  It is easier to disconnect from the 3mm side for more convenient removal of the plant and its dripper intact from the lamp area during cleaning or individual care sessions.

Neat, huh?

 

Here's GHK1 PF after its top-branch LST.        Oops, I split the top.    (Don't fret.  She will make it fine.)

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

24 Jan

Here's GHK2 AH     before...

 

and after.....

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

24 Jan

 

Here's GHK4 AH      before...

 

and   after...

 

Then the girls are put back under the light to recover and respond.

 

Clone GHK1-S1 in soil now and sitting under a sprayed clear plastic cup to keep it very moist.

 

Clone GHK3-S1 still cruising along.

 

Clone-hopeful KK2-S1 sittiing in the bubble-cloner...

 

And her mom KK2 AH and the place from where the clone was cut.

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

28 Jan

Four days later, the jungle is coming.

 

New additions: three clones of Johannesberries, and a tray of Aubergine (Egg-plants).

Welcome to the Jungle

 

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

31 Jan     (after 84 days in Vegg for the oldest plants)

After harvesting the Northern Lights out of the flowering tent, I cleaned-out both tents.  I trimmed away the inner leaves and branches from the GHK and KK test plants, and I put them into the flowering tent.  But I shall leave them on 18/6 for about a week to allow them to adjust to the ebb-n-flow system before the switch-over to 12/12.

The GHKs are to the left and right.  The KKs are in the middle, KK2AH is in the foreground.  KK1PF is in the rear.  Remember that KK1PF was that pitiful seedling that took almost a month to produce its first set of fan leaves, and she took about 65 days just to be set into her rockwool cube.  Look at her now.

Each reservoir is 30 Liters and each is mixed one more time as for late veg stage.  After a couple weeks, when I make the flip to 12/12, I will then mix the nutrients for flowering.

The left reservoir serves Powder-feeding nutrients to the rear tub of plants conntaining l-r GHK1PF, KK1PF, GHK3PF. 

The right reservoir serves Advanced Hydroponics nutrients to the forward tub of plants l-r GHK2AH, KK2AH, GHK4AH.

These 6 plants are the contest ladies. 

 

And look at the size of those Kaia Kush fan-leaves...

 

The clean-up trimming of these ladies produced a bunch of clone-possibilities, so I soaked them in water, dipped them in Schutz rooting hormone powder, and stuck them directly into soil.  Let's see how this method compares to the bubble-cloner.  I spray these clone babies 2 or 3 times a day with distilled water.  I try to keep the veg tent around 24°C and 70-80% relative humidity.  All the clones and plants currently in the veg tent are not officially part of the contest.  Just including the pics for your enjoyment.

New additions:  Starting some Lorenzo Pepper seeds (6).  They are older seeds, so they might not germinate.

[dick 197]

nice soon starts your blooming,

cant wait

PEACE

[Mykol76 645]

your hydroponic grow is perfect!!!   have fun with this big lady ready for bloom..!!

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

Thanks Old Head and Mykol.

 

Blush...

No one's ever said that my set-up was perfect before.

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

3 Feb       (Flip after 87 days of Vegg for the oldest plants)

I checked on the Green House Kushes and the Kaia Kushes and noticed that they have responded really well to their new home in the Flowering tent and sitting in the Ebb-n-Flow feeding system.  They look as if they have started another explosion of growth.  If I had unlimited head-space, I would enjoy to just let them expand again.  But, this tent is all I can offer them, and I must allow room for the bloom-stretching.

Therefore, I have decided to flip the photoperiod to 12/12 today.

Here's a few pictures of the Test Specimens on the day of photoperiod flip.

[dick 197]

grt news, will be interesting to see flowers coming

PEACE

[Jose.gh 7,612]

It will be very interesting to see how they react in bloom. LST strongly marked in plants, I have very curious to see how it works

 

Thanks for so much info and updating, is perfect for watching the progress.

 

Greetings!

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

Thank you Old Head and Jose. 

 

Quick update without pictures:  Day 4 Flower, I disconnected the power plug to the lamps in the flowering tent.  I will leave it disconnected for about 2 or 3 days to give the plants a 48 to 60 hour period of absolute darkness.  Planned light deprivation, followed by standard 12/12.  This should cause a hyper flowering response.

 

Watch this, my friends...

 

I saw this demonstrated by some Emerald Triangle growers on Youtube.  I had tried it with success on a previous grow, so I want to try it here on this grow for your enjoyment.

Enjoy...

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

Day 7 Flower

After 2+ days in the dark, I re-connected the lamp circuits in the flower tent to 12/12.  Here are a few pictures of the result of the extended darkness.  Notice the new growth is more yellow than the older leaves.  In a few hours the first 12 Hour period of light after the deprivation will begin automatically, controlled by my self-made "Dual-Tent/Feeding-CO2-Lighting Controller".

By the way, I'm thinking of beginning to produce my "Dual-Tent/Feeding-CO2-Lighting Controller" on a serial production basis.  I designed it to work on 115V AC / 60Hz or on 230V AC / 50Hz.  I designed it to be very user friendly, allowing one to use daily timers or weekly timers or both, depending on whether you are feeding to soil or to hydroponics.  It currently allows 2-Speed control of the exhaust fan in conjunction with a Fan-Off Mode for CO2 injection.  Would anyone be interested in one?  If so, send me a private message in the Messenger on my Profile page.  I can also design other control functions into it as well.  Just tell me what you want...

 

Andddd, someone had asked me in an earlier post in this thread to describe the LED lamps I am using in the Flowering tent.  OK, I shall produce some pictures and give you a good description in an upcoming post.

[marvgk 5]

Hello Canna, 

been looking into the PF, how does it compare? Do you plan on making the switch?

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

marvgk,

The comparison is currently underway in THIS Green House Kush Test.  I'm not sure, but there may have been other members who have performed similar comparison tests in the past; maybe they had posted their results.  But I think that my thread is the only CURRENT thread in this forum running a straight one-for-one comparison of Powder-Feeding against another manufacturer's nutrients.

 

In my opinion, at the current time, there has been very little difference in performance between PF and Advanced Hydro.  During the early vegetative phase, it seemed that some of the GHKs under PF had developed a bit faster than those under Advanced Hydro, but as time passed, it seemed that they all evened themselves out.  But as of 9 days ago, the plants had entered the phase where, potentially, any difference should begin to show itself - the Flowering phase.

 

Whereas the Powder-Feeding formula remains the same for Flowering as it is for Vegg (except that the PF schema calls for monitoring and adjusting of EC), the Advanced Hydro nutrient schema DOES change.  For AH flowering, less of 1-Grow (Nitrogen-base) is scheduled, and more of 2-Bloom (Phosphor-base) and more of 3-Micro (Trace element-base) as well as Bloom Excellerator are scheduled.  These boosted nutrients for the AH specimen group during the flowering phase could produce different results as might be seen in the PF specimen group.

 

In short, it is still too early in the test to draw any concrete conclusions.  But I will admit that I am not looking at my EC values at all.  Additionally, I am not holding my pH in either of the reservoirs strictly in the optimum range for hydro- which is 5,8 to 6,0.  The pH of my solutions tends to rise with time, and often upon testing, I discover my solutions sitting at 7,0 to 7,8 sometimes.  When I do discover pH that far out, I do lower it using Nitric acid 38% to my target of 5,8.  Sometimes I overshoot into the ~5,2 range, or after achieving 6,2 I am happy with leaving it there.  Either way, my experience is that with time, the pH will have risen when I test again in 2 or 3 days.  I admit further that whereas the Nitric Acid is the optimum pH-Down to use for Vegg, it would be better during the flowering phase to use Phosphoric Acid.  But I dont have any of that.

 

I did lower the pH in both reservoirs last night.  The PF reservoir required comparitively less ph-Down than did the AH reservoir.  If one was to compare visually the two reservoirs, one would see right away that the AH solution is much darker than the PF reservoir.  This could be an indication that the AH solution has more particles in solution (higher PPM) than the PF solution.  And that could explain the difference in the amount of pH-corrective fluid required.  I imagine that a solution with a higher PPM might require more corrective fluid to shift its pH.

 

Now that brings up another question.  If I mix Powder-Feeding according to the scheduled schema, and I have already adjusted my pH to the optimum level, but my EC remains still too low, what product should I use to increase the EC without messing up my pH or over-fertilizing my plants?  Hmmmmm...      If anyone has the answer to that, I am very interested to learn.

 

So, please stay tuned for the comparison results.

 

I thank you for your interest and your questions.

[dick 197]

Hi, i have recently read an artical on 2 diffent acids used for ph adjustment, 1- Nirtric acid which is best

used in vegative stage as it is N based, 2- Phosphric acid which is best in flower stage as it is P based.

With that in mind we can see how NPK ratios can be slighty altered by the difference in which acid

we use. I hope there is someone around that can give more info on this and wether or not it makes

that much difference.

Now to your question, i have always been under the belief that EC should always be set before

adjusting PH.

PEACE

[Tokage 2,156]

Well, i'm not sure that you can rise the Ec without mezzing with your Ph. If you need more Ec use more powder feed. Adjust the Ph little at the time and wait for the result.
As an example. When i use hydro i adjust Ph pretty often.
Sometimes because of what i do in that moment and sometimes because the water tank need a refill after thirsty plants(But then they also need some extra feed first as well).

It's normal and all growers need to do it.  But there is a difference between brands of feed. Some brands like Advance nutes or some of the Canna bottles do keep a pretty stable Ec/Ph. Mind you, i have not tried that many different feeds so i can't speak for them all.
Other brands need adjustment every day. I have also seen that the bigger the water rez, the easier it was to keep stable values(at least for me).
I also saw that Gh powder feed was weaker than i thought it to be and with a big tank i needed more powder than the bag said. (anyone else seen this?)

I would not worry about overfeeding your plants by adjustment alone. The Ec meter will tell you what you need to know. Just because you add more of something does not mean you will overfeed. If you already had good values and then added more Powder, yes then you would overfeed.
What i liked best was the powder feed in veg and advanced in bloom. It worked great for me. 

We all have different water quality, way of handling the plants or just lack of experience with a certain brand. All this will also effect your result.
I strongly urge you to use the Ec meter even if you say "But I will admit that I am not looking at my EC values at all" it is so damn key, as well with monitoring the Ph.

In soil you can often use your "feel" and it is not as important. If you grown one plant in soil and had a good result you prob can do the next grow as good or even better if you go about the same way. (omg i keep on ranting haha)

I rant because i like this thread. Compared grows has always sparked an interest. I even did a powder feed Vs Advance nute grow just to see what would happen.
What makes this a nice thread to follow for me, is because we seem to get different results even when we are kind of similar in our approach.  

I know this is not the ideal answer and perhaps not what you were looking for. Still, it's my thoughts and perhaps you can find something of use. I would love to hear Bams view on this and perhaps Jan or Jose? Perhaps someone else have some good input. I smell a wonderful thread in the making
 

[Tokage 2,156]

Hi, i have recently read an artical on 2 diffent acids used for ph adjustment, 1- Nirtric acid which is best

used in vegative stage as it is N based, 2- Phosphric acid which is best in flower stage as it is P based.

With that in mind we can see how NPK ratios can be slighty altered by the difference in which acid

we use. I hope there is someone around that can give more info on this and wether or not it makes

that much difference.

Now to your question, i have always been under the belief that EC should always be set before

adjusting PH.

PEACE

I agree, i always set the Ec before i do the Ph(unless i need to balance Ph for some reason)

I would love to read that article if you can find it. It sounds like some kind of logic to it with different acids. Pm me the link if you still have it buddy.

[Cannabissapean 1,223]

Old head,

You are welcome to post that info and that link in this thread, too.