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Green House Kush Test compared against Kaia Kush, each comparing Short Powder Feeding against Advanced Hydroponics Nutrients by Cannabissapean


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@Tokage,

I have been using drippers ever since the initial set-up of this grow-op at the beginning of 2014.  At first, I was using the drippers singularly, but in the Summer of 2015, I had rigged-up the ring drippers with 5 drippers each.

 

@Mykol76,

 yes, there are lots of little white spots, mostly on the older leaves.  It may be thrips, but I have not seen any pests at all.

Or it could be a result of the way that I am controlling my temps and humidity.  As long as the evacuation ventilator is running, everything is fine and stable.  But three times each day, when the feeding is turned on for 15 minutes, the evacuation ventilator is simultaneously turned off for that 15 minutes plus an additional 15 minutes.  This is done to allow CO² to build-up in the flowering tent (from my wine-making operation).  Unfortunately, during these 30 minute "evac-fan off" periods, the heat and humidity rise significantly in the flowering tent.  As soon as the evac-fan turns on again, everything returns to normal.

I think these fluctuations may have served to create a hostile environment against pests, but they may be responsible for these white spots.

 

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This is just my opinion but i think drippers is perhaps one of the best ways to get a huge harvest, easy to run once you dialed them in and not much maintenance there after. Have you compared this way to other forms of grows technics and what did you think?

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Yes, Tokage.  I agree that drippers offer one of the most labor-saving methods of watering, aside from the ebb-n-flow method. 

I had thought about using drippers over soil, but I decided not to attempt it, fearing over-watering or mold or root-rot issues.

In my case, I use drippers only in the Vegg stage, and also only over rockwool or rockwool blocks in Ton-Balls.

When a plant in ~10cm rockwool cube attains a height of about 10 to 15 cm or when the roots begin to show themselves at the bottom of the cube, I imbed that cube in a flower-pot with bottom holes.  The bottom of the pot is lined about 10 to 15 mm deep with small (5-8mm) lava rocks.  Then come Ton-Balls; at first just enough Ton-Balls until the top of the rockwool cube sits just slightly below the top edge of the pot.  Then I fill around the rockwool cube to the top of the rockwool cube, or sometimes even over the top of the rockwool cube up to the lip of the pot. 

With this configuration, a number of options are now open to the grower.  These pots can go straight into the Flowering room or remain in the Vegg area for further growth or topping or super-cropping or simply long-term maintenance as a mother-plant.  In any case, the drippers continue to be my choice for watering in this medium in Vegg.  When the plants reach the condition or maturity that I desire, I transfer the pot into the Flowering room as-it-is; no need to change its pot. 

In Flowering, I have the option of continuing to use drippers, but I prefer to use ebb-n-flow.  The pots, configured as described, are perfect for this.  When the tub fills with the nutrient water, it enters the pots from the bottom-holes and fills to the level of my outlet hose.  When the pumps turn off after 15 minutes, all the nutrient water drains out of the pots and the tub and returns to the reservoir.  This draws fresh air into the Ton-Balls which the roots love.  Drippers don't accomplish such a complete evacuation and replinishment of air as well as ebb-n-flow does.

Maintenance:

There is a bit of maintenance involved, but it is not all that bad.  Basically, each time you tend to the plants, you should turn on the feeding pump for just a few seconds to confirm that each little dripper is not clogged.  If any dripper is clogged, simply remove it, clean it and reinstall it.  It helps to have good quality drippers.  Mine are the slow-drippers from Gardena.

Another couple tipps about drippers:  1. Use nutrients that are suitable for hydroponics (like Advanced Hydroponics or Greenhouse Powder-feeding).  If you use nutrients that were designed for soil, there is a much greater chance of clogging-up everything, the pumps, the hoses, the drippers.  I made that mistake once using Bio-Bizz nutrients designed for soil in my hydroponics system.  When it clogged-up, it required a complete clean-out of the entire feeding system.   2. Choose your hoses wisely.  Clear hoses allow the full-spectrum of light to enter.  When this happens, algae tends to develop in the hoses.  Algae will quickly clog-up the system.  I do use clear hoses for my ring drippers, and I do have to clean them from time-to-time.  But that is not so bad as when I had used clear hoses for my main feeder-hose to the dripper junction hoses.  I have replaced this main hose with a dark green (also available in dark brown) hose readily available in aquarium stores.  That reduced the algae problem significantly.  Gardena offers a black hose for its dripper system, but I do not use that because I prefer to see into the hose and because the hose is prone to crimping-shut when bent, unlike the more flexible aquarium hoses.

 

When I grow in soil, I don't use drippers.  When I grow in rockwool, I use drippers in Vegg.  In Flowering, I use ebb-n-flow for my Rockwool/TonBall pots.  I had tinkered with DWC/Bubbleponics, but never had any luck there.  So, I guess I cannot offer any further comparisons.  Drippers and ebb-n-flow are my preferred methods to grow and flower for hydroponics.

 

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Thank you for that extensive explanation. I tried to look thru my old material in search after my old ebb and flow setup i built. Sadly i do not have anything to show :(
About those dripper and soil i have actually no idea how it would run in the long term but i can see a number of problems. I'm sure there are growers out there doing just that(soil&drippers) with great results but i just know if i would try it it would go bad haha

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It is possible to use drippers over soil, but instead of using a Daily Timer (repeats your applied on-and-off settings EACH and EVERY DAY), use instead a Weekly Timer (allows the user to enter different settings for each day of the week {Mo,Tu,We,Th,Fr,Sa,Su}).  For those readers who have not seen such a timer, they really do exist.  They are readily available at your nearby home improvement center.  Weekly Timers look almost identical to the Daily Timers, except where the Daily Timers show 24 hours with a resolution of 15 minutes per setting on the dial, the Weekly Timers show the 5 days of the week with a resolution of around 1 or 2 hours per setting on the dial.  Each type is also available with digital displays instead of rotating dials, but for our purposes, I find the digital models unnecessarily expensive.

Using a Weekly Timer, you can water once or twice a week instead of every day, in order to allow the pots to dry out between waterings.

Example of watering once weekly: (Monday & Tuesday - OFF,  Wednesday - ON from 8 to 9 o'clock A.M., Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday - OFF)

Example of watering twice a week:  (Monday & Tuesday - OFF,   Wednesday - ON from 8 to 9 o'clock A.M.,   Thursday, Friday, Saturday - OFF,     Sunday - ON from 8 to 9 o'clock)

In any case, when dripping into soil (or even when using ebb-n-flow under soil, which I have done successfully) using a Weekly Timer, the nutrient solutions must be well drained away from the plants, either back into the circulation reservoir or to waste.  If you are using a recirculating reservoir, you must be sure to check the solutions often for proper pH and EC, and replace the solutions in a timely manner to prevent poisoning the plants with too much run-off salts from the soil.  The grower MUST be vigilant to discover over- or underwatering tendancies and he must be quick to tweak the settings as appropriate.  The greatest danger comes not from underwatering because soil is more forgiving, and the problem is easily remedied when discovered, but rather from too wet soil which can lead quickly to root rot.

I would consider the dripping into soil method only as an emergency measure in the event that I had to be away from the girls for more than a week-and-a-half.  And there is simply no replacement for close and careful monitoring to avoid moisture-related diseases and pests.  Enlist a friend or relative to tend my plants???   FU**IN' NEVER!!!   (IMHO, the 10% Rule applies:  Every person who knows about your grow-op increases your chance of being busted by 10%.  You, yourself, are the first 10%.  Mean rule, huh?)

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I had a friend asking me about this. He wanted to grow and at the same time be able to go away for work one week at the time. I told him it was a bad idea for as many reason you can come up with. I never did think about the weekly timers tho. I still think it would had been a bad idea even if the drippers would have worked because of the long away time.

I do have digital drippers that could make that time very easy, Perhaps one day i will try them this way just to satisfy my curiosity. 

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I agree with you, Tokage, that leaving any indoor op for a week is risky.  A lot can happen to plants if they are left unattended, even within just 3 days.  Pests can ravage a tent-full of plants in 3 days.  For hydroponics, a failed feeding pump can be disastrous over a weeks time.  Hence, the plants should be tended at least every 3 days when possible.  But if one has to leave a grow for an extended time, hydro-systems with timed feeding pumps are just the thing.

I would not fear leaving a soil system for a week, unless the grow experiences extremes of heat or humidity that must be manually controlled.  Probably the best plan when one is leaving a soil system for a week or two is to perform a good flush and then a good feeding the day just before you leave for the trip.  Application of pest-control-sprays like Neem Oil is a good preventative.  There are also long-term watering devices available at home & garden stores.  A simple example is the glass watering ball with the long slender neck and small opening.  Fill up the glass ball and neck with water, then drive it pointy-end-down into the soil near the roots.  It releases water only so fast as air can enter the small hole.  To prevent low humidity from robbing the pots of their moisture too fast, place a bunch of open containers full of water in the grow area.

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Mykol76,

I am happy that you are following. 

By your comment, "Come on guys, ....", Is there some specific information that you needed answered?

 

By the way, many thanks to Bam-Bhole for steering me in the right direction to find a proper EC Meter.  Here it is.  Just got it.

The BlueLab Truncheon.  I was surprised how big it is.  And I am equally impressed how easy it is to use.  Just stick the end into the solution to be tested, and it turns itself on, indicates the EC with the blue lights.  Pull it out of the solution, and it turns itself off after about 5 seconds.  Rinse it off with fresh water, it indicates the EC of the water, and then it turns itself off again.  It stores conveniently in its own storage tube.  The storage tube also has a ring for hanging the tube in a convenient place.  Perfect!

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Glad you like that as much as I do ! It is so convenient, no calibration, no replacingof anodes , changing batteries cause you forgot to switch off the EC meter etc. One fast check , maybe adjust to the wanted level and ready. 5 year guarantee ! It comes esp. handy when flushing - Each swap of water reduces the left over feedings and you see immediately where you are and when it's clean. 

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@ hey mate, nothing in particular for the moment, probably the English translation differed with what I wanted to say ....
but I appreciated your info previously reported

the plants are kept in shape, very curious to see some crazy BUD be formed by this hydroponic system. :)

good luck with all!

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Oh yeah, we have Budzzz, and they are soooo dank.  I had to replace the Carbon filter just last night, because the previous filter finally (after 2 years) gave up the ghost, and the neighborhood began smelling like a Cannabis factory.  The old filter weighed 778grams heavier than the new filter.  WOW!

I have some wonderful pictures of the flowers, just cannot post them right now.  Problem is that I am having difficulties uploading the pictures (pictures of the buds from about 25 March).  The problem is not technical, it is family-related.  My wife has become a bit intolerant of my hobby and is trying to forbid my posting of pics in here.  She has been on vacation and stays here at the house with me and has been watching my every move.  Also, she has been scoping-out my emails, so I am in the process of changing emails and passwords to stop that.

Sometime soon I will be able to post some real updates when I can access the internet for longer sessions without being spied upon...

Sorry fellow Strain Hunters, but life steps in the way sometimes.  I hope this doesn't disqualify me from remaining eligible for the contest prize considerations.  The contest ends on 15 April 2016.

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Very nice setup and journal, to say the least !

Glad to be back online the first few hours today and i have been reading all the posts from the beginning.

Working with drippers, is what i used back in the years, on slabs on an automatic water dripper system full auto...the way mosty commercial growers did or do their thing.

With newer ideas, and i am also full of new growing technics i want to test in future, the drippers in anyway will certainly be part in my future grows as well, i have some ideas i wanna try out, simple and hopefully as effective as yours seem to work mate, well done, deep bow !

keep up the great work, you have another fan on this journal !

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Thank you very much for the wonderful comments, GangaXL.

And finally, I can post some pictures....     Whew!!!

And Thank you, Admin.    WooHoo !!!  The pictures appear to be uploading in the correct order.  Fantastic!

These pictures are from about 25 March.

The flower tent.  The 2 plants to the left and the 2 plants to the right are GH Kush.  The 2 plants in the middle are Kaia Kush.  The 3 plants in the rear are fed GH Powderfeeding.  The 3 plants in the front are fed Advanced Hydroponics. Image000.jpg

An exhausted fan leaf from a GH Kush are Sativa-like and about 25 cm across..  The fan leaves of the Kaia Kush are enormous Indica-like with 11 leaflets, about 35 cm across.Image001.jpg

Various flowers of the GH Kush plants.Image002.jpg

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This is the top flower of the Kaia Kush being fed with Powderfeeding.  That leaf you see directly underneath the flower is 35 cm across as are at least two others.  I had harvested the 3 leaves when they began to turn colors with the intention of making some pictures, but life's events got in the way, and they dried up before I could snap the Fotos.Image006.jpg

 

Views of the area under the canopy.  I have been periodically cleaning away dead  or dieing leaves from the undergrowth.  Sometimes I even harvested a few popcorn buds from under here to include them in my protien shakes, as I had mentioned before.  And if you consume them without heating them, supposedly you don't get high.  But, as I have discovered, or at least I think it may be true, if you do consume some previously converted THC in edibles, the converted THC sitting in the bloodstream seems to act as a catalyst to convert some or all of the unheated THC in the orally-taken Cannabis.  I had gotten higher than I had ever been when I did that.  Drive my car like Cheech & Chong.  I will have to be really careful about that in the future.Image007.jpg

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A View looking up from underneath the Kaia Kush, my LED lamps and a very dirty 2 year-old Prima-Klima filter in the background.  These are the economy filters from Prima-Klima, purchased from www.Growmart.de.  I really like them.Image009.jpg

 

Various more pictures of the flowers, and a pic of my thermometer.Image010.jpg

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Two more pics of Kaia Kush buds looking at the Trichomes and fat little seed pods (without any seeds inside).  The pictures just dont compare to actually seeing them in person.

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And now, a quick look back over in the Vegg tent.  The 3 Cannabis plants in the background are the only clones to survive the 25 or so attemts to clone from the Kushes.  The largest one to the right is the central clone from GH Kush 4.Image016.jpg

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The remaining plants have nothing to do with this test grow:

The other plants in the background are Bell Peppers to the left and Tomatos in the middle.Image018.jpg

 

In the front row are new cannabis plants of various strains that I have started from seed.  They are:

Lemon Skunk fem from GreenHouseImage019.jpg

 

Claustrom fem from PositronicsImage020.jpg

 

WhiteWidow crossed with Sour Diesel reg (accidental cross in my Flowering Tent)Image021.jpg

 

Jack Herer regular (Not yet sexed, if male, I will use him to pollinate some of the other girls' branches selectively.)Image022.jpg

 

GH Cheeze fem from GreenHouseImage023.jpg

 

and White Domina Auto from Kannabia in Spain.  She is my first automatic.

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These 4 pictures are from about 01 April.

The GH Kush flowers are definitely putting on weight.Image035.jpg

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This Kaia Kush is being fed Advanced Hydroponics.Image038.jpg

 

I still see very little difference between the nutrients Advanced Hydro vs. GH Powderfeeding.  Maybe there will be a difference in weight or in taste.  We'll just have to wait to see.

I have noticed some significant differences in the smell of the flowers from one specimen to another.  Some smell very much like pine trees.  Others smell as if I had spilled diesel fuel on my hand while tanking the truck at the pump.  Wahnsinn!

 

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Finally, it has happened for the first time.

For one man in Germany who has been suffering 30 years with the pains of Multiple Sclerosis, the German Court has finally (after his 30 years fight in the Court) granted him the privilege to grow his own Cannabis, but only because other medicines have been determined by his doctor as inneffective for him, and because he cannot afford the outrageous price for Cannabis offered from the Pharmacy, and because Medical Insurance will not pay for it for him.  See the links below:

Article:  https://www.tagesschau.de/inland/cannabis-eigenanbau-urteil-101.html

Commentaries following the Article:  http://meta.tagesschau.de/id/110275/bundesgericht-erlaubt-cannabis-anbau-fuer-schmerzpatienten

 

For the mother of a friend, I am now encouraged to give her a copy of these articles and to cook-up some Canna-Brownies to give to her. 

She is suffering pains associated with the various bodily damages from her lifetime of smoking, and her pharmaceutical medicines are becoming less and less effective.

 

I think I shall post this also in the Cannabis Laws Section of the forum.

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Because the end of the GH Kush and SLEX Test Grow Competition is now fast approaching, upon inspecting the ladies last night, I decided that I must declare an end to the flowering phase and proceed into flushing and harvest. 

The Kaia Kush was in fact ready to proceed to flush a couple weeks ago, but because the GH Kush was (and is) still producing white hairs and is still gaining weight, I have delayed the flush of the Kaia Kush.  But now that the end of the competition draws near, I must begin a series of daily flushing in order to draw the salts and nutrients out of the plants so that I can harvest before the end of the contest period - 15 April.

Normally, I allow the plant to tell me when to flush and harvest.  The GH Kush could go another week or two before flushing, but I do wish to remain in the competition.

 

So, last night, I dumped both reservoirs and refilled with just water, no nutrients, no pH adjust (~7,8 pH).  I shall do this every day for the remaining days to draw out as much salts and nutrients from the plants as possible.  I plan to cut and hang on the 13th and 14th and post my final competition-qualifying photos and wet-weight comments on the 15th of April.

I do plan to produce a dry-weights report and a smoke report after the 15 April deadline.  I believe that that complies with the Test Rules.

 

So, here are some pictures from last night.

(Excuse me, I'll be right back.  I must go feed the cats right now.  I want to provide some comments for the below 8 pictures, and I have some more pictures of the plants and their flowers that I shall post in following posts.  Later, friends...)

 

OK, I'm back.

Both reservoirs started 2 weeks ago with 35 liters of water and nutrients.  Evaporation and uptake by the plants have reduced each to less than 10 liters. The Powderfeeding reservoir is a light amber colour with some brown precipitate sitting on the bottom of the reservoir.  Typically, this brown stuff is what is returned to the reservoir from the ebb-N-flow tub during each feeding cycle.  I have noticed something about the powder-feeding tub that I don't see with the Avdanced Hydroponics tub.  A couple days after starting a fresh batch of Powderfeeding, curious-looking rafts of black particulates can be seen floating on the surface of the water in the reservoir.  Sorry, I failed to get a picture of that.  My guess is that it may be a side-effect from pH-adjusting the nutrient-solution.  I detect no problem from these floating rafts of black particles.  Image000.jpg

The Advanced Hydroponics solution is as always darker reddish-brown in color. Image001.jpg

 

Looking at the tops of the rockwool cubes of the three plants sitting in the front ebb-N-flow tub where they were being fed Advanced Hydroponics nutrients.  Here are GHK4AH (GreenHouse Kush#4, the mother to the largest clone currently sitting in the Vegg tent), then there is KK2AH (Kaia Kush#2), and then there is GHK2AH (GreenHouse Kush#2).   When the reservoirs fill, the level of the nutrients reaches the height of the overflow tube (seen in a later photo).  Therefore the water level never reaches the top of the rockwool cubes.  Whereas before in the Vegg tent, the rockwool cubes were fed using drippers, a layer of green algae had grown over the top surface of the cube.  That is not a problem because green algae is not poisonous and it consumes an insignificant amount of the nutrients. (It would be a problem if the algae were red or brown;  red or brown algae produce poisons that can destroy other plants.)   Compare against older photos of these plants when they were in Vegg, and you can see that the algae has simply died off because here in these ebb-N-flow tubs, it no longer gets any water from the drippers and it also receives enough light because of the dense canopy above it. Image014.jpg

 

Looking at the tops of the rockwool cubes of the three plants sitting in the rear ebb-N-flow tub where they were being fed GreenHouse Powderfeeding nutrients.  Here are GHK3PF (GreenHouse Kush#3), KK1PF (Kaia Kush#1), and GHK1PF (GreenHouse Kush#1). Image015.jpg

 

Here one can see the overflow tube which limits the height of the water during feeding.  With the pots that I used here (selected because they were the biggest pots that I could fit 3 pots simultaneously in the tub), the water reaches a height of about two-thirds the height of the pot.  I guess that I could cram more smaller pots into the tubs, but the drawback would be that overcrowding could result in pests or disease.  I think that my flower tent is overcrowded as it is, and I have been extremely lucky that I have detected absolutely no pests during this grow, and only minimal minor leaf-spotting.  There is a UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) in the water next to the overflow tube that I still have not identified, and it floated away somewhere else during the flushing procedure.  I'll find it later.              Those green hoses you see reaching to points under the pots are air hoses with airstones at their ends.  Cannabis enjoys oxygen at the roots, so not only do I aerate the water in the reservoirs, I also aerate the solution in the ebb-N-flow tubs. They run continuously.  This helps to prevent root-rot for the roots that have grown into the lava rocks at the bottom of the pots,or even some roots that have grown out of the pots into the ebb-N-flow tub.  Because each pot sits on an airstone, when the tubs empty, the roots inside the pots are able to drain almost 100%.  This continuous feed of air to the root area also prevents the build-up of CO² in the tub-area during feeding-times when the exhaust fan turns off and the CO² valve opens to flood the tent with CO² from my wine-making system.  Because CO² is heavier than air, I also have a couple small circulating fans each aimed into a tub.  They turn on during lights-on periods and turn off during lights-off and during feeding periods.Image019.jpg

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There is another small circulating fan directed at the canopy.  He is on continuously during lights-on periods to ensure no stale air in the canopy area.

And there is yet another small circulating fan that turns on only during CO² periods.  He is located below the ebb-N-flow tubs and points upward to direct the air with higher concentrations of CO² from underneath the ebb-N-flow tubs to the canopy region during the feeding period.

 

After changing-out the reservoirs with just water and running about 3 cyctes, the color of the water suggests that the flushing is working.  Powderfeeding reservoir after 3 cycles.  Advanced Haydr after 3 cycles.

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Here are some pictures of the flowers from the night of the first flush, 08 April.  

Flower tent with the LEDs turned off.  In each corner is a fluorescent lamp.  Two are 18-Watt Cool White.  One in the left rear is 36 Watt FluoraGlo.  The fourth in the front-right corner (cannot be seen in this photo) is a 36-Watt UVB 2.0.Image005.jpg

 

Middle in the picture is KK2AH with her fan leaves ending their usefulness.  The Kaias tend to grow flowers that form a flat canopy at the top of each bud with their associated flower-fan-leaves.  The GreenHouse Kush flowers tend to push their flower-tips higher and higher, and they tend to continue to produce new pistils and growth for an extended period of time as compared with the Kaia Kush.Image006.jpg

 

These are pictures of various buds of GreenHouse Kush.  pointy tops on the flowersImage007.jpg

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Another Kaia Kush flower fed by Powderfeeding.Image010.jpg

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Pictures of some GH Kush buds along the back row (Powderfeeding row).Image012.jpg

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Looking down on a Kaia Kush bud.Image016.jpg

 

A GreenHouse Kush bud.

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The Filter:

Notice any difference in these filters?

They are the identical model.  The gray filter is replaced after 2 years in operation.  It weighs 778 grams heavier than the new one.

It did its job well.Image002.jpg

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By the way, it took multiple attempts over the past two days to complete these last 3 posts.  My browsers (Mozilla and IE) had each reported a number of times that the server of Strainhunters.com was not returning traffic.  I hope that doesn't happen when we are all trying to wrap up our reports by the 15th. 

I have now installed a server-hopping browser, and thus far, things look to be a little better or faster or more reliable.  Server-hopping browsers, however, should NOT be used for Torrent-surfing (chat rooms, live-streaming, video-viewing, etc.) because that slows down the service for everyone else.

(EDIT:  I discovered soon after posting the above, that server-hopping services don't work well with the StrainHunters server, possibly because the various Servers at the end of the chain of servers in the network may be reporting IP-addresses that spammers may have previously used, and these IP-Addresses may already be known to the StrainHunters server as violators, and therefore the IP-Address becomes banned from the website by StrainHunters.  I'm not a hacker, I wouldn't know where to begin to do any such thing.  It's just with the current state of affairs of the NSA working to violate our privacy, I'm just trying to find a way to be able to surf without leaving a trace.  Anybody have any ideas?)

(LOL  EDIT again:  It's not because of contaminated DNS, either.  It's that they don't work with virtually any Secure-Logon-Network because the logon protocol includes a double-check or handshake with your DNS which you had initially proved as valid upon the initial registration , etc.  Just don't bother.  Unless something changes or unless you know of a sidestep, then server-hopping won't get you into secure networks, even where you are already a member.  LOL)

 

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A large hard jungle to master, but you is dominating well :).

The buds are well trained when do you plan to harvest? It will be difficult to evaluate their work based solely on varieties for testing.

It would be appreciated, to update with seeds exclusive test :)

Good work!

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14 April 2016                                                                                                  Harvest Day!

For the Kaia Kushes it is past the optimum time to harvest.  They were not producing any more new pistils or leaves at all. 

The GreenHouse Kushes could have gone a bit longer and added some more weight, but they had stopped making new pistils, so it is an OK time to harvest.

Besides that, I must harvest to meet the deadline.

 

So, here are a few pictures of the flowering tent before I started cutting:

Pic 1.  with the LEDs off, but the fluroescents still on.

Pic 2.  with all the lights off to get a better idea of the natural colors.

 

 

 

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