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Is this okey! Advice needed!


Khaĺil13
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3 seeds were planted in soil 6 days ago the root then was about 1cm.

Only one seeds came out and it's not looking so good it's more yellow than green.

I use 2 CFL 32 Watts and 2 florescent lamps18 watt each.

Temperature around 25c to 27c at day and drops to 20c at night.

Humidity 70% to 40%.

I got very limited resources

And it's very hard to get new seeds.

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Hey Khalil13,

 

your soil seems to be too wet for the timeline you describe and it also has a colour that makes me think if that is the right soil for cannbis.

 

Usually, the soil being used is much darker in color and not as saturated with stones and larger material. If you plan to do them outdoors this might be ok,

 

but for indoors I am not sure if that will soil will serve your needs.

 

 

The yellowish color most likely comes from too much water in the soil. Dont water it next 5-7 days until the pot is light and almost fully dry again. For now

the little one has enough water to grow at least 5 more days, I think honestly more likely no water next 10-12 days as that pot is really large and wet for such a tiny

plant.

 

Do not add fertilizer now, leave it until bigger, then follow your schedule.

 

You do have holes in those plastic bags ???  If not, punch some holes in the bottom to drainage the standing water out of the pot :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Friend.

I am very sorry to  have to be the one to tell you that this is far from okay. 

You have to get some more info on how to construct a grow room because there are just so many things wrong with this setup. Sorry Friend.

First you need to understand the importance of the environment you are trying to create fore your plants. You need to be able to control Heat, Humidity, air circulation and the  sufficient level of CO2 around the plants.

Then you need to understand the importance of light source and what the different light waves does fore the photosynthesis. You need to understand how to control your plants growth and how to trigger the Plants into Bloom.

Then you have to know something about the soil you choose. You need to know what it´s made from and how many nutrients and micro organism it contains. The soil on the picture looks like something you got from a mudslide on some remote mountain top. It looks dead in nutritional ways and perhaps filled with unwanted amounts of minerals and other stuff your plants cant absorb anyway.

You need to understand the importance of Ph and you need to find a good basis nutrient and some additives to boost up Root, Growth and Flower production.

And finally you certain need to clean up . Your grow area looks messy and dirty and you need a clean grow area to avoid deceases, mold and bugs.

You could learn a lot from looking around other posts on this forum. There are a lot of very cool grow journals in here. You can also learn everything you need to know from Jorge Cervantes by either bye his Book or look at his web site https://www.youtube.com/user/jorgecervantesmj

This is only to help you out my friend and I hope that you are not offended in any way.

Bless...

 

 

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Im pretty sure this was a joke?

Whats wrong?

Its more than just too wet

Ok its a major fire hazard

You shouldn't put smarties and glass in your soil

You should get a proper set up, and medium

Couldn't of you just bought some soil at a store? Instead of digging up a muddy puddle in your driveway and throwing fish rocks in it? lol

Not trying to be rude, but why is this in the grow section?

Should be removed, its obvi a troll, joke, or what?

 

I don't know why this post made me a bit mad, lol.

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calm down guys :)

 

This is an intl. grow forum and NOT everybody everywhere has access to what we all think is needed. Sometimes you have to make the show with what you have got

and that is what we are here for, help him as much as possible and encourage instead of smashing his dream !

 

We all started in the wrong corner, why not you too :)

 

Get access to a Growing Book and read when you can, believe what we say and you will get something to harvest ;)

 

Fim

 

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I agree with FIM. We all been new at one time. Some of us had a great beginning others,,,not that great. But just looking at that photo i could say a few things about the way the soil look. Seem almost like you picked it from the ground outside? Could also be very wet soil...
And what is up with the tin folie around the lights?
One great grower once told me "take it easy it's just a weed" meaning that we do not need that fancy gear to start our grow adventure. All you need is good soil, one good seed, clean water and sun light in a window to make a start.
But I also agree with Iceskunk. Clean up your grow area and perhaps read a little first about what you need to do. That way you will understand a bit more when the older growers speak grow terms with you.
Good luck and do not feel afraid to post anything if you need a second opinion.

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  • 1 month later...

bruhhh ?????????????? that room.

 

bro, get all that foil out.

man I want to help but at same time cant stop laffing.

bruh aint replying cuz he burned his house down already ?????

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No need to bash beginners about the head.  We all made mistakes at the beginning, and even experienced growers make mistakes.  I know that I have.  I make many mistakes even today, but my failures today are mostly attributable to my relentless experimentation with trying-out new mediums or methods.  And those experiments reveal what not to try in the future.

You have explained that you have limited resources.  OK, let's start there. 

Maybe these seedlings will not make it under these circumstances.  So, before you acquire more seeds or try to germinate any further seeds, do a bit of research about the soil that Cannabis likes. 

Here are some rules about the soil for Cannabis.  Cannabis does not like to have continuously wet feet.  That means its roots cannot remain wet for long periods.  If they remain constantly wet, the roots will rot.  End of plant.

Cannabis roots need to have oxygen at the roots between feedings.  Soils that are too dense (like yours) do not allow sufficient oxygen to reach to the roots.  In order for oxygen to reach the roots, the soil must drain water through nearly immediately, and the run-off water needs to drain away from the bottom of the pot.  So if you are catching the water in a dish under the pot, just a few minutes after the feeding, the run-off water needs to be tossed away.

Your soil is mostly sand.  Sand contains some useful minerals, but Cannabis needs much much more of other nutrients.  Those nutrients are usually provided using soils containing much humus (decaying plant materials).  By decaying plant materials, I mean vegetation that is allowed to rot.  Through the rotting process, thousands of micro-organisms are consuming the tissues of the vegetation and excrementing the by-products that the living plant can use.  Not only micro-organisms do this, but also creepy insects that crawl through the soil are important.  They eat both the plant materials and the micro-organisms and their excrement is useable to the plant.  And especially earthworms.  The excrement from earthworms is one of the best by-products for soil amendments.  You can use a search engine (google, bing, etc.) to search for "super-soil for Cannabis".  There will be many recipes for good soil for cannabis.  It is important to understand what nutrients are being described when trying to assemble such a soil, so take lots of notes. 

If your stores carry a soil that is advertized to be good for tomatoes, then that's a start.  The nutrient-requirements of tomatoes and Cannabis are similar, but not exact.  Often it is necessary to lighten-up even store-bought soils with Perlite or ClayBalls or lava rocks to ensure good drainage.  But if your stores do not carry gardening soils, then you will have to improvise.

If your stores simply wont carry what you need, then you can create a composter.  Word of note here.  A composter takes time for it to work, so dont go and get new seeds right away.  The composter will require a year or so before its contents will be useable.  But once you have it set-up and you keep putting stuff into it, you will have a virtually never-ending supply of compost with worm-castings.  Find a suitable place to set-up a composter.  It needs to have contact with the ground so the worms and bugs can travel freely between the ground and the vegetable matter.  Depending on the amount of sun and heat, it either needs the sun to warm up, or it might need the shade to prevent being cooked or dried to death.  Use a large plastic container (like a garbage can).  Turn it up-side-down onto the soil.  Cut a large hole in the bottom of the can.  This is where you will throw-in the vegetable matter.  Cutting a big hole in the bottom means also that others will not see the object as any worth to them as a garbage can, and will be less inclined to steal it.  If you have the lid, place the lid onto the cut bottom of the can, also upside-down, to act as the lid to the composter.  Once it is in place, you can drill a few small holes through the lid so that when it rains, the lid will collect rainwater and drip the water onto the material to be composted.

What should one put into the composter?  Vegetable matter.  No meat, and no cooking oils, no bones.  Meaty materials will invite the wrong kind of bugs.  When composting vegetables, usually you will wind up with crawling bugs, worms, bacteria, etc.  Occasionally, there will be some smaller flies and gnats, that's OK, but you don't want to encourage houseflies, bot-flies, wasps, hornets, and mice/rats.  No meats.

Grass clippings, leaves, rotting leaves found on moist woodland floors are excellent.  Vegetable waste from the kitchen or from the table (so long it doesn't have much cooking oil).  If there is a vegetable merchant near you, they may allow you to have their thrown-away rotting vegetables.  That is excellent.  But not cirtus fruit.  Citrus fruit contains high amounts of Vitamin C, an acid that the worms and bacteria don't like.  It is important that the vegetation thrown-in be both green (fresh-cut) and brown.  Brown is already somewhat rotted or dried and contains some compounds that aid in the acceleration of the rotting.  The green or fresh components contain lots of moisture and other fresh compounds that the bugs and bacteria like.  If you have a friend who has a composter already going, ask if he will allow you to have a bucket-full of his compost to act as a starter-agent for your composter.

Once you have it set-up, just keep tossing-in table and kitchen scraps, and water it every week or so.  Every month or two or three, use a garden fork or hoe to turn the contents.  This allows oxygen to reach the materials in the middle and bottom to accelerate the rotting process.  When the materials are no longer recognizeable as to what they were, then the compost is ready to harvest.  But it may not be immediately ready to be used in your soil.  I recommend sieving the compost through a 10cm or 1/4" sieve (I use the front guard from a discarded oscillating fan; cost me nothing) to separate-out the as yet uncomposted larger chunks and toss them back into the composter for further processing.  The suitable material that passes through the sieve, bag it up and allow it to sit moist for a while.  The process will go a while further.  When it eventually dries, then it will usually be sterile enough to use.

Compost should not be used alone, but as a supplement into your soil.  You can add some of your sand, but only to act as a drainage additive.

Lights:  Fluorescents or CFLs with cool white or grow spectrum have sufficient wavelengths for the vegetative phase, but they are weak in intensity and will not lead to fast growth.  They are sufficient however to grow slowly or to foster clones or to maintain motherplants in slow growth.  They will not function so well for flowering, where greater intensity and other spectra are desired.

pH:  This is paramount.  Simply the fact: To optimize the uptake of nutrients, Cannabis roots need the correct pH.  To understand why this is important, google-up "pH for cannabis chart" and you will find charts showing which nutrients are best absorbed at which pH.  For soil in the veg stage, usually around 6,2 is best and it can be allowed to rise to around 7,0 in flowering.  I prefer a pH meter from Adwa, but if your resources are so limited, then maybe you can find pH strips to use at an aquarium store.

Temperature:  If you can somehow stabilize the temperature in the grow area to prevent the swings, that would be better.  Shoot for 24-25°C.

Air-humidity should also be controlled.  During germination, higher humidity(60 -80%) is OK.  After it stands, 40 - 70%.  As it grows in Vegg, 35 - 60%.  In flowering, humidity should be kept ~35 - 60% to prevent mold.

There is so much more to explain.  I agree with the advice from others here, please read through the journals in this forum.  There is so much experience here to draw from.

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Best watch some grow videos on the greebhouse webstore sit . a link is provided. I watched about a dozen or so grow videos before I realized I could try that, too. It will cost you some money - no matter how limited your budget may be you can do better that that.

A plant needs a) good genetics- anything with questionable qualities are wasted time + effort. So choose a solid supplier and buy a few seeds for 3, 4 or 5 Euro per piece.

B Light - The right type + strength

C Soil. Proper soil helps a plant to grow perfectly

Finally some kind of fertilizer-Get a few bags of powder feeding - 5 bags for 3 Euro are enough for one plant/grow circle.

 

Watch the ph values and make sure you do not overfeed - give water with fertilizer once then just ph adjusted water till the end of week 6. Then flush out with water.

Make sure you got a timer and that no lights come to the plants in the resting time (lights off) First 3 to 4 weeks 18 hours on 6 out, Then 12/12.

Make sure you got a fan so not too much heat can build up. I

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