GHS Cheese, thanks to franco

[RIX]

done well lolz im done tonight ha.

 

cocos looking lovey and dead right under the main if the light so no exxcuses now.

[RIX]

coco saved these.

[RIX]

 

[RIX]

3-1-1 veg

1-2-3 flower

mix 1/4 1-2-3 week 1 and 2 flower then go half to full? also use 1-2-3 for a lil boost should plants get defieciancies?

Guys these 1s got the calues on but the last 1s I posted dont except the buddy could you please narrow it down to single digits?

what would your recipe be.

guys i needs help a lil.

pm me if you have too i cant use the chat thing as im on phone.

Need a veg for in a week or so for my cuttings.

Any of you using yara? im thinking yara brown too but can only find 25kg which is to much.

which if above for a cal mag for my coco too? and which 1s for pk booster? im need 3 or 4 aint I? but if i can use the buddy 1-2-3 to boost n p and k I can deal with defieciencies right or simply bump up or go 1/4 1-2-3 in veg?

see these are kgs to so dont want to get wrong 1 and be stuck with a kg of feed lolz.

[Cannabissapean]

We're not dead, just following along...

and enjoying.

Experimentation is fine, but you must expect that by the very nature of experimentation, many times along the way, the results will undoubtedly be deficiencies, toxicities or failure.  Remaining steadfast to your goal of proving the correct mixtures of raw chemicals into a successful feeding regimen, you may eventually be successful.  But it will usually be costly and un-nerving.  Unless that manufacturer is paying you to perform these experiments, I would say that it is not worth the headache, especially when there are wonderful products already on the market, with proven mixing charts specially formulated for our plants. 

Trying to produce top-notch Cannabis in your own grow using unproven mixes of chemicals and nutrients from manufacturers who haven't already qualified mixes specifically for Cannabis is like playing Russian Roulette with your own plants.

Powderfeeding is good, simple and proven.  Punkt! Aus! Amen...

However, I do recommend that you familiarize yourself with a few more nutrient manufacturers' products as well.  These manufacturers have already qualified their mixes for Cannabis, and their mixing schedules are easy to find and download online.

For nutrients in soil, take a look at BioBizz and HESI products for soil.

For hydroponics, bubble-ponics/aeroponics, take a look at Advanced Hydroponics of Holland in Europe, or look at General Hydroponics in America.  It can be that HESI and BioBizz have now qualified nutrients and mix-schedules for Hydro, but I am not yet aware.

All of these products are available as starter kits via ebay or amazon, and they all have easy-to-find mixing charts for Cannabis available via searches online.

For the soil itself, in Europe, look at Plagron GrowMix or BioBizz Soil mixes for use as the basis for further mixing.  The BioBizz soils are available in regular or in a light mix.  BioBizz also sells a wonderful bagged WormHumus. 

For soil itself, in America, look at the products from FoxFarm (Ocean Forest and HappyFrog series) for the basis soils.  These come out of northern California.  They know what Cannabis enjoys.

For Cannabis, Perlite (basically an expanded/baked silicate mineral that has no nutrient value) is essential in soil mixes to increase the drainage of the soil, which Cannabis loves.  It is available from Plagron, but it can also be found very inexpensive at some home improvement centers, normally used as a construction additive for insulative concrete-flooring or paint-texturing projects.  Ton-balls (expanded/baked clay balls) in soil perform a similar function but they are not as efficient and they cost more.

Lavarock dust or sand is a great additive.  Cannabis loves the raw minerals found in lava.  Sand is similarly a good additive.

Mychorhizae is highly recommended to add a culture of beneficial fungii & bacteria and to discourage undesireable infestations.  Mychorhizae, however, needs a couple weeks in the soil mixture with moisture to develop properly.

Hornmeal (basically, the shavings and sawdust from processing the hooves and horns from hoofed animals / similar to our fingernails or hair) is an excellent additive, however, it should also be wet-down after mixing and allowed to sit for at least a couple weeks.  It is high in Nitrogen and needs to be processed by the bacteria and then cool down before using with seedlings, otherwise, the seedlings will suffer Nitrogen toxicity.

All of the products mentioned above are readily available via ebay or amazon.

And (one of my favorites), compost is an excellent additive.  If you start a composter (better, start 2 or 3 or more) and toss all your grass clippings, vegetable kitchen waste, autumn leaves, Cannabis-trimming, chopped-up old root-balls from your Cannabis plants, etc., and add some rainworms (a cup of bait-worms from your local fishing store will do).  [Don't throw in any meat-based scraps or waste.  Those materials will encourage the wrong kind of insects and mice or rats to inhabit your composter, and the resulting compost will be a bit off chemically.]  At first, it might take a couple years for the first compost harvest, but thereafter, you will have an annual harvest of excellent compost every spring.  You only need to turn it from time to time, and upon harvesting, just process it through a simple sieve.  Everything that passes through the sieve is your compost.  Everything else is returned to the composter to feed the worms for another year.  A Tipp: No need to buy any expensive sieve.  There are free sieves available every week.  People throw away old fans all the time.  The front mesh-type grill is excellent as a compost sieve.  You'll thank me later.

And I know that there are a number of other wonderful manufacturers of soils and nutrients out there, but I have experience with the above.  So if other readers want to recommend their favorites, please do so.  I am all ears, and would like to try some more PROVEN Cannabis-qualified media and nutrients.

[RIX]

ayayaya

I found a npk same as ghs short flower for like 6bucks a kg lol.

ok my intereebs fkd about. 

I took cuttings and will be putting them atraight into the 25l buckets as soons they root as keeping them seedling like that fkd em up a bit and i ripped few roots on transfer so they aint happy.

I fkd 1 up real bad yeye lil shyt decided to drop ph so I upped with silica and almost kiled it lmfao

lil 1 in the back has come back to life too lols.

my 1 coco looking good, seedlings aint growing but they look happys.

my big cheese phenos shed few main arm fan leaves, spose there expecting to go into flower and shedding.

I used a light 5.5 ph and a root stimulator with diluted vitalink a and b. been spraying and just left them in same spot. I will see as soons they root and bucket them.

green on my perlite got me mad on transfer. I took it out n streesed n ripped roots. replaced it and bame they going green again. I diluted bleach and cleaned the last 1s as im low. tbh i read that its ok in coco but nothing on hydro. Its like surface only and not deep within the perlite. my perlite is only covering my rockwool. 

I think that its just from the perlite being wet and mixed with nutes and roots.

 

anyway guys.

need help with nutes. i know this 1 i gots perfecr to start adding in flower but need a veg i can use all threw.

its looing like im need some N tbh so im thinking a hi N low P K then i can add this 1.2.3 ontop to even it out.

I was reading that making concentrated with distilled water like a part A part B formula but ii want simple, tea spoon and ppms. im work off ppms.

I looked at yara kristalon 3.11.38 and realised it aint far off my buddy except my buddy got lil more N. the calnit is 15.0.0 15.5% N and 19% CA

I got plenny calcium. my water above says 100 ppm. my taps 380 ppm so 100 is calcium but if i remember im low on magnesium and tbh you can see that in my plants right now. but this muddy has +mg +te its the 6.12.36+mg×te which is 1.2.3 lol it kinda baffles me how 1 npk means another npk. 

tbh thats bugging my calculations when they give 1 number like above and say it is anither. it fks my calculations.

so im do this like a 2 or 3 part but goto work the veg-bloom n pk boost out. tbh i dont think im need pk boost, i recon up my ppm if buddy ontop of a veg so bare in mind i need a veg thats suitable for all the way threw and start reducin like week 3 of flower.

im pretty sure i could use this buddy and just boost the N which is what im thinking pluss a bit of N in bloom 1st 2 3 week too then buddy boost.

 

here some pic. il post n check replies

oh i lolipoped and used lower arms for cuttings from 2 big pheon vheese.

[RIX]

these are powder feeds lol.

just like yara kristalon brown and yara calcinit.

there actually the companys that supply these companys that rip us off.

I assure you. I am not far off my calculations. these are pretty much close to ghs powder feeds at 1/8 price.f

thats the thing most these companys dont have no feed schedules for cannabis. its not publicly accepted. well here anyway. hence tomato feed and ive found a tomato feed 1 feed that has all for veg for 1/4 most companys and 1 or 2 have the exact npk values.

were im at now. is were all these companys are at. its just down to % of npk. its really as simple as that. cover your trace elements and and maybe a cal or mag supplement.

in my case im thinking im need magnesium. them products I showed you above are all powder feed and were the main companys buy from. 

I need a simple ph down too. 

im watching this. and tbh thats same ingredient and percent as my botte of ph down.

[Cannabissapean]

Then Rix,

you're the man to write the tables for us...

[RIX]

Update.

aha np we need not be scared no more the truth about feeds and how cheap they really are and the public being able to get them cheap, was inevitable. im lil shocoed at ghs pruces tbh as they were at the for front of this a few years back, hence there dry feed testing and being available now.

just dont baffle your self with the concentrated and diy adding buts here and there. get a complete or 2 part soluble ike i have.

I need a decent powder ph down now and have read these create alot of ppms. 

Any experience?

@@@@ any 1 know about powder pg down for swimming pools@@@@???

oh yea.

kinda change of feeds. I got yara mangesium nitrate soluble feed which im run with npk 6.12.36 = 1.2.3 pictured above "oraange bag."hen im eaz off the N for bloom and increase feed. try understand the npk numbers to and get it down to simpl 1 digit formulas were you add another to increase vertain 1s when you need.

In get into this more even put together a kickstarter page but i dunno its alot of work and money to set up. yara will supply you what ever npk you need.

so feed reg is

vitalink max hw in blue buckets. nice n green but some mag probs hence getting yara mag. 

canna coco a and b

took all additives out and plants have greened up. tbh i think i got to much cal in my water and overdosed the cocos on calmag 1st few feeds but now they green.

Also with npk values. you dont get just 1 npk threw a feed. different dosages can change your npk and you have to be carefull as you may run low feed giving low npk and not enough feed of 1. this is a problem for all id say theres no perfect way.

this why i got the mag nitrate its 11.0.0 I can up the N with some magnesium and come off for flower "thats the plan."

I got a 5inch carbon filter for intake for 1 pound lolz

 

[RIX]

On 02/07/2016 at 6:33 PM, Cannabissapean said:

Then Rix,

you're the man to write the tables for us...

I had ghs powder sent before but never got to try it. I would of bought ghs dry if I had not seen nearly exact same for so cheap. Otherwise ghs powder would if been the way.

I will use 2 clones with my soluble feed so I can do different things. Ive researched real hard and im not far off. If any thing I may need a veg feed but now I have the magnesium nitrate 11.0.0 i can just add that to the 1.2.3 untill i get 5.2.3 or what ever.

Im be carefull. I only want 4.2.3 some N for veg and remove it is the plan.

worked out to 13 bucks for 2kg mag nitrate and 1kg 1.2.3 but ive seen calcinit and other dry 25kg at 20 bucks but I need research on those. There basicly soluble calmag. my water got 100ppm of cal already hence me going magnesium.

 

now id like a ph down and have seen swimking pool ph down powder.

 

yea I will do a formula and feed schedule.

These are so conscentrated you can just upfeed a lil for boosts like pk13/14.

Suprised there aint more recipes. I been having to contact manufacturers and all sorts. basicly they like to sell this in massive amounts only. do we really want or need 25kg around the house? no but the saving is huge and if your getting the good results why not right?

 

haha

take care guys. experiment a little.

im stick with my regiment vitalink hydro and canna coco but im try soluble in both and I honestly believe im going to get better results. Just less shyt in there if you get me and if your using ppm you get a idea of things.

basic macros but ratiod npk and maybe additionel supplement like calmag for defficiences but then id say if your getting defficiences up your feed 50-100 ppm.

I was out of shape this grow. been a while but im ontop of it now and should all go smooth

take care all

[Dust]

Nice little bags! It is not surprising to find other powder nutrients, it is i believe one of the first form ever used in the history to create nutrients so it is just normal to come back to it the thing that i can guarantee with the powderfeeding and that i can not guarantee that is the same for the one you found, is the quality of the material used to make the powder. The PF is made with the highest Range quality of mineral you can find and most of them organic contrary to what most people think, Mineral nutrient can be organic it doesnt have to be chemical, but thats another discusion hehe ^^ so the best your base mineral are the best it will disolve and be available and efficient to the plant. 

Would be nice to make a side by side comparison from clone with both powders, would be interesting

 

Have a good grow man and thanks for all the photos! Plants look happy

[Cannabissapean]

Hey Rix,

you mentioned pH-down:

I have found that the plants perform better if you use a nitrogen-based PH-down during the Vegg-Stage, and if you use a phosphorous-based pH-down during the Bloom-Stage. 

Advanced Hydroponics has both of those.  (as well as a pH-up formula if you need that)

For a while there, I had only a nitrogen-based pH-down.  I found that if I used the nitrogen-based pH-down during the Bloom-Stage, the plants had had a difficult time producing and expanding their flowers, apparently, because the nitrogen was encouraging continued vegetative growth instead of the plant concentrating its energy on blooms.  As well, the final product had a harsh smell and taste.

Ever since I switched to using N-pH-down in Vegg and using P-pH-down for Bloom, my harvests are heavier, better tasting, better smoking.

In addition to to the switch to Stage-dependent pH adjustments, when it appears that the blooms have stopped or significantly slowed their pistil-production, I now always give my ladies a high volume flush with just rainwater (no nutrients) followed by at least 2, maybe 3 weeks further life-time watering with just rainwater (no nutrients) to help the plant flush the nutrients and salts out of her tissues.  This has significantly improved the taste and smoke.  A single flush does help to clear the rootball of the salts, but that is not enough for optimum smoke-product.  The trick is understanding that the girl needs 2 or 3 weeks of further life AFTER the flush in order to clear her tissues of the salts as well.

And during those 2 to 3 weeks after the flush, I am amazed how the blooms expand even without the nutrients.

[RIX]

[RIX]

On 10/07/2016 at 2:28 PM, Cannabissapean said:

Hey Rix,

you mentioned pH-down:

I have found that the plants perform better if you use a nitrogen-based PH-down during the Vegg-Stage, and if you use a phosphorous-based pH-down during the Bloom-Stage. 

Advanced Hydroponics has both of those.  (as well as a pH-up formula if you need that)

For a while there, I had only a nitrogen-based pH-down.  I found that if I used the nitrogen-based pH-down during the Bloom-Stage, the plants had had a difficult time producing and expanding their flowers, apparently, because the nitrogen was encouraging continued vegetative growth instead of the plant concentrating its energy on blooms.  As well, the final product had a harsh smell and taste.

Ever since I switched to using N-pH-down in Vegg and using P-pH-down for Bloom, my harvests are heavier, better tasting, better smoking.

In addition to to the switch to Stage-dependent pH adjustments, when it appears that the blooms have stopped or significantly slowed their pistil-production, I now always give my ladies a high volume flush with just rainwater (no nutrients) followed by at least 2, maybe 3 weeks further life-time watering with just rainwater (no nutrients) to help the plant flush the nutrients and salts out of her tissues.  This has significantly improved the taste and smoke.  A single flush does help to clear the rootball of the salts, but that is not enough for optimum smoke-product.  The trick is understanding that the girl needs 2 or 3 weeks of further life AFTER the flush in order to clear her tissues of the salts as well.

And during those 2 to 3 weeks after the flush, I am amazed how the blooms expand even without the nutrients.

Appreciate the advice.

Yea im using phosphoric ph down and they do not like it at all and I do the same. remember my dead 1 at the back? look at her now on pics I just posted  the other 1 wouldnt recover it was cheese. basicly all leaves shriveled. I flushed and it just dried out and went crispy. felt bad on it but it wernt growing. I did take a cutting or 2.

I think a big problem is nutes feed schedules. I had to dial in with my 1st seeds and now all my clones and most others are perfect. But that dial in can cause permanent scars though.

Ive found less is more but some I cant get my head around like the 1 in the soil now. its atleast a month old from seed. been in 20l oxy pot but wouldnt grow so ive thrown it in coco. im around 3 month in now.

yes. im do 1 part N with 1 part 6.12.36 and stop the N in flower or lower it some.

Im looking to get 81% phosphoric acid as ph down but agree they dont like it in veg as i killed 1 plant the other day via using silicon as ph up. I dont understand as I used way under the recommended amount. Pluss I couldve used water to ph up lol. I thought its well under the recommended dosage and she could do with some kinda boost ha. wrong killed her.

Getting nitric acid is hard work here involves a lil check but think I can walk in car shop and buy it but I know over 7% is illegal unless blabla lol. I may try go in shop and get it, 1 litre should do.

I read just to ph 0.1 down is alot so they say instead of going straight to h 5.5 settle for 5.9 or 6.0 and watch ph rise. I tend to go 5.5 and theyl settle at there own liking. 

Im try my new nutes 1st and see how they go. I even thought buy npk 1.5.1 as a ph down but I recon with my dry feed i can work something. to ph up I just water. if i notice no growth I will dilute.

funny you say that as I too flush if i think theres a problem and boom it works and ive noticed better results using less food now. 1ml per litre for all the plants is enough but it does need upping eventually for example my big 1s now. I wanted them to stay short so under fed aswell as pinched and bended main stems. it worked and now I want them to shape up so I upped food a lil. 1 has decided to start shriveling leafs so ive added water to dilute the feed. must not of liked it but I really need these guys to straighten up for flower. I need a straight run no probs as im already over working my self with this. only 1/6 of the room is filled. Im manual feed and electric too. knocks it out of me lolz.

my back plant that was dead has fuly recovered and is the best there hands down. I believe it arjhans haze #3? and shes lucky she wasnt binned tbh as she was real bad. she in soil too with hardly any coco and been under fed compared to rest but look at her. again she was hydro but didnt like it amd bam loves soil.

amazing recovery.

not 1 bad leaf on her. on that note I will never do coco again either just look at them. Not noticed growth for ages but there new leafs on the upper are all green. I swear these would look better with just phd water.

Ah my cloning gel worked a treat 100% success.

50-70% honey rest water. and also a very light feed of half a mil per litre seen them root in a few days and now look at them. I run same plant clone feed just ph 5.5 water to half ml vitalink max A and B perlitre. Roots grew faster and bigger infact all were 4 to 6 days faster then the plain phd water. I even run 1 with straight tap water which took longer. infact still waiting lol. its the last 1 ha. 

Im happy but wish this was 3 month ago

Oh dont use perlite the way i did. it goes green and manky so ive changed it to coco.

feeds

Ive been up and down with feeds and this is my recomendation. Remember im in hard water and start with 380 ppms and 8.0 ph so this may be why I need less food and needs to be taken into consideration. I do believe under feeding will not hurt your plant at all, just watch them and add feed 1/4ml per litre a time.

1ml vitalink max A and 1 mil vitalink B per litre "all hydros are in." build from 1/4ml per litre for clones and seedlings. Go to 1.5ml per litre max.

1ml canna coco A and 1ml canna coco B per litre. start again at 1/4ml per litre and build 1/4 a week untill 1.5ml by then you be ready for flower.

stick to that and your winning "Trust me."when no more growth and slight yellow up the feed by 50ppm about half a ml per litre.

Forget all additives. there shyt and im almost convinced there made to fk your shyt up so you go out and buy more.

 

[RIX]

look at the lil guy lool swear he been in that pot a week and nothing. was in bucket before for 2 or 3week amd look at it.

I think that is critical mass. shouldve been critical zero mass. critical no bud haha people would buy that lo haha.

this was last week some time. my last pics are this week. if you look youl see the lil guy in the buckets.

all the others grew on low dosage of food. so good ive stayed at that feed yet this guy just look at him.

wasting my time but its the only critical mass. its so shyt it hasnt even grew cola arms. critical trash. critical pass.

 

Anyway I write you a hook. you should fall asleep haha.

[Cannabissapean]

Nitric Acid from a car-shop is too strong and dangerous to handle.  Why don't you buy pH-down from General Hydroponics?  Mine, from Advanced Hydroponics is strength 38%.

If you cannot buy that, then go to an aquarium shop and buy pH-down for aquartums.  Oak-extract is a natural acid that is often found in aquarium shops.

[RIX]

 

Take care guys.

[RIX]

ah ye that extension lead say it can take like 3000wat and i wouldnt mind putting 4x400w into it. will i be ok?

do i need to add bigger fuse into ky electric board for the room or will it be ok? im looking for 3000w off my lights and got 3x double plugs in the room. ive done 2 lights per socket before with 600w so this should be ok right?

ordering those plug fan controllers too. my lil fans done a great job at extracting and humidity but time for it to go on inlet.

still not sure how to intake. thinking just turning the fan around were it is so it draws air in from the house.

Need a proper way to hang these lights too with out causing to much damage. was thinking use a tv mount on each side of the wall with wore rope holding them. 

Ive done how they are now before lols but these lights got those metal cases.

also can i use pyrex glass on my light boxs? i was reading the originals are glass and explode hence mine having no glass.

remember i wanted to put 600w into these cases but with no gass its pointess as the heats still there. this bought me onto thinking just dangle my lights.

im get that light lumen thing this week to set them up and make sure im getting maximum but need some advice on the mounting lights.

you recon them 2 cheese biggys are done now? or they will start veging again? just be honest so i can take what ever cuttings now amd stop wasting my time with them.

any of you have to start fresh ever again i strongly suggets you drop 500 bucks on seeds and take them all to flower then cull the whack 1s to save you alot of bs.

yeye advic3 on light mounting and them 2 cheese.

Ive flushed and re done there buckets and while its wilting and some oeafe are deaded there is alot of good growth.

[RIX]

here my plants just now. 1 them cheese look fkd but other look ok. heres all plants.

 

[Cannabissapean]

Rix,

If you load that extension cable with 3000W (even for your 4x 400W = 1600Watts), then you should unroll the cable first.  If you leave the cable rolled up on the spool, 3000Watts will cause it to get warm.

And NO!  Never replace a fuze with a higher-current fuze.  The fuze is there to protect the wire in the wall. (In other words, if your wire is 1,5mm² diameter, the maximum current that it can safely carry is 16-Amps.)  If you put a fuze with a greater current-value there, and then use higher-current devices, this will cause the wiring in the walls to overheat.  This is one of the most common cause of electrical fires.

You need to get in contact with an electrician to install what you need.

[Cannabissapean]

And no!  Just because you have 3 dual-outlets in a room doesn't mean that you can load them each with 16 Amps.   All of the devices plugged into all of those outlets added together cannot exceed 16 Amps without overheating the wire in the wall.

 

[RIX]

dead ain it. be honest as i can slap clone in it. if it will recover over next week ok but if not im replace it.

heres individual plants.

you can see the bottom leaves from when i had troubles and neglected them basicly you cant fix damage once done but look at rest of growth all green. but the cheese lolz. look at them. even thinking pull thise coco 1s man. yea they green n fixed but arms so weak and so small n fragile. I recon coco is shit medium thats my opinion and so are canna products.

ah you goto pm me i cant get on those chats guys. im on phone and it wont work so dont think im blanking.

shall i hit it for cuttings now and take what i can? or will 2week veg help? 1 looks ok but this 1 guys got worser? take cuts and replace?

shocking aint it how they can be mint and dead next day but i done some reading and it happens. roots are fine my temps and humidity is fine. this is ph and food.

 

[Cannabissapean]

That's a shocking sight.  I don't know what has happened to that plant.  It looks like mine do when they get thirsty.  But you are throwing so much nutrients left and right, I cannot keep up.

In my relaxed grow, I'm not mixing untested mixes, so I don't have these wild fluctuations.

I have saved a number of plants that I thought wouldn't make it; I say, "It ain't dead until it ain't green."

[RIX]

see that big cutting. if your new ish and reading for experience advice ect.

you want clones like that big as they will root and bam straight flower. I usually use hole arms off full grown plant then root and flower. its like how it is so i can spot roots. im then whack coco in instead of perlite or cover walls with rockwool and then put the coco ontop. IMO thats all coco is good for. Ive tried everything. 

pebbles go moldy, perlite gets algae, plastic wraper will sweat and cause mold too so im stick with this. Just use it as a top dressing to cover the top of the rockwool

Thats way I do them. usually with clay balls but they always go moldy and i dont even use drippers.

Also use honey and water 50-70% honey rest with phd water and seal. shake before use. yes it will stink and go alkaliney bittery but it work 100%

[RIX]

wow looked at my old pic to now and its shocking. i shouldve switched them and flowered. 

amazing how quick things can fk up.

im done. be back next week and hopefully il have these clones a bit bigger and ready to flower. 

had enough now.