Ready for harvest?

[Ram Tegia]

Next time inside, maybe.

[SmoKeBall]

When she is on that stage (developing the buds) it can not get water ANY WATER, even without directlly be on it, it can absorve too much moister, that is what you have found when cutting (MOLD) problem...I advise you to pay more close detail atencion, if you only look at the plant it can appear heakthy but you need to touch, turn, twist...like you could see with your hands...otherwise it will pass descrit...already fall on that one too don`t wory :)...specially on that phase can be problem...and also remind yur self that your plant may perform well in vegetative state, but even if she did, more probably will occure problems in bud stage, it`s always more complcated.And that can be decieving, cause in vegetative all went well so we don`t pay the close atencion she needs...all the  parasites amke their life by staying hidden, so you must outsmart them, look under leaves etc...don`t forget no rain while bud are devloping...as dry as possible...and by the looks i would say that she been with extra humudity for a while, not 2 days...also check for some parasites i believe is some white litle fellows, like fly or spider that only feed on your bud resin, they do leave the buds dry like that...look closely to the bud and under the leaves...when they are super crouded i spray them with home made cure...organic.Put 6 cigarrets in 1L of water for at least one day...then filter to a sparayer and add 2 or 3 drops of wash dishing shampoo( just to be stickier to the plant) Spray de plant under the leaves, without wet the buds.Hold the leave turn it and spary against your hand, cause thats where they deposite their eggs...repeat the process until she`s clear of them...it does work for most of the problems i encounter...at least if you detect it soon enough, otherwise only quimicalç products will work i believe...never had too...wind blow some air to it, even if she is already drying for you to tast her  renweing oxigen and dryes her faster with last chance of mold

 

Enjoy your crop

 

[Cannabissapean]

Ouch!  Caterpillers are not fun.  I've had them before in my indoor grow.  Nasty critters. 

Best thing to do is pick them off as much as possible, and spray Neem Oil a couple times about 3 days apart.  Continue to check often for them.

The rain on a plant in bloom is not good; it can lead to mold.  If you can erect some kind of tent made of gardening fleece over the plant, but not touching the plant, and not seriously hindering airflow, that would help.

[Ram Tegia]

Thank you. I will post pictures. Will spray again Saturday. Close inspection throughout the day. 

Enjoyed "I Grow Chronic! Cannabis Hydro Cultivation" video, and got great ideas about an indoor setup.

Testing a DWC hydro on a small pineapple. It seems my artesian well water is 6 ph right out of the well. I will post pictures.

Adversity is the mother of invention.

[Ram Tegia]

Have not seen white flies, only saw little black flying bugs. Nothing since I sprayed on Wednesday. Did find 3 dead black bugs.

 

[Cannabissapean]

I'm glad you enjoyed that video series.  I recommend it often.

[Ram Tegia]

Ok. Trichomes a little cloudy, more weight gain, rain might have stopped for a while, feeding, sprayed and now a night pic.

[Ram Tegia]

Stalk

[dick]

its a nice plant, kept stealth with nice training

by the look of it, would love that but not got

the climate here

peace

 

[Ram Tegia]

Almost time for tea.

[Ram Tegia]

1. Boil water to a vigorous boil 

2. Place cup on warmer for 5 min

3. Add a little milk, honey, cognac and cinnamon to cup

4. Place herb in strainer and pour water into cup

5. Let sit in cup for 30 to 60 minutes 

6. Be prepared to stay home for 4 to 6 hours 

that is my plan.

[Ram Tegia]

Growing outside is interesting, bugs want it more than you. I found 5 of these after a heavy rain.

[Ram Tegia]

Neem oil and Dr Broner's soap wash down complete. Hopefully I am getting close, trichomes are still just a little cloudy and fan leafs are just starting to brown. Sorry about the sideways picture. Also, the flowers are too heavy for branches.

 

[Cannabissapean]

Stop with the Neem Oil at least 2 weeks before harvest.

[Ram Tegia]

Very good, I am inside of 2 weeks now. Just waiting and watching. 

[Jose.gh]

Hi!

 

These buds look very nice, but I also think that still need a few weeks before harvest
regards

[Ram Tegia]

Thanks Jose. Here is a pic showing the fan leaves browning.

[Ram Tegia]

Forum,

I Need estimates from all, on harvest time frame. These are pictures from today. Please note and comment on fan leaves. I see cloudy trichomes and clear trichomes. I have started flushing 5 days ago. Should I continue flushing? How long to harvest? Any other comments are helpful. Thanks good people.

[Ram Tegia]

I looks like some flowers have opened and some have not.

[Ram Tegia]

Okay, based on trichomes being 50% clear and few flowers opened, I feed with tiger bloom today. 

[Ram Tegia]

Good news today: Flowers opening! 

[Cannabissapean]

Ram Tegia,

Sorry, I have been away a few days; just now saw your request for help.

First of all, I agree with Jose, these plants definitely have more time to go than just 2 weeks, that is of course unless some other factor forces an early harvest, but let's hope that nothing drastic like that occurs.

The "browning leaves" (I would call them yellowing leaves in your case) are nothing drastic.  Those leaves that I see yellowing on your plant are only the older, longer-stem fan leaves turning yellow.  That's normal, and is not an indication of plant maturity.  This will happen again and again.  You can leave them on the plant or remove them if they bother you.  I have heard (but I don't know whether it is true) that as a fan leaf SLOWLY yellows, the plant is able to re-absorb some sugars and other beneficial nutrients (including Vitamin D) from the yellowing fan-leaf.  Such yellowing is natural and in fact desired.  It means that things are progressing normally. 

If however, the fan-leaf skips the yellowing stage and goes directly to brown, then something else is happening, (such as a leaf-killing mold, or heat-stress, or drought, or lamp-burn, or pests, or pH problem causing a nutrient lock-out or nutrient-toxicity; NONE of which mentioned is your problem, in my opinion).  When I see a leaf that is turning from green STRAIGHT to brown, I remove that leaf immediately; Why?  If it is a mold creeping through the chlorophyl tissues, I don't want it to reach the stem of the leaf before it is removed.  In my opinion (and this is not supported by any reference, just my opinion), if a suspected "leaf-killing mold" reaches the stem or the branch, the mold could possibly reak havoc throughout the entire plant, so I remove them immediately when I notice them.  And (I can hear some of you guys laughing at me, that's OK) if it is true that there is no such thing as a leaf-killing mold, then I still remove a green-to-brown turning leaf, simply because whatever is killing the leaf is yes, killing the leaf.  I believe that such a leaf cannot contribute more to the plant than the plant is expending in the effort to save the leaf.   

That said, I do want to better define what I had said much earlier in the thread about judging the harvest-time based on fan-leaves on or close to the colas changing color in a heallthy manner.  I meant the fan-leaves that are well intergrated within the colas, whereby the leaf-stem (aka. petiole) is so short that it is difficult to see the end of the petiole where the leaflets of the leaf are attached to the petiole. (Sorry, at this time,  do not know the proper term for this connection point at the end of the petiole.)  I was referring to the healthy color-change for SUCH short-petiole, cola-fan-leaves, not to the yellowing or browning of the largest or oldest fan-leaves.  Rather, for these integrated cola-fans, it is DESIREABLE to see very pretty color changes to any number of a variety of colors, including red, orange, yellow, purple, blueish, rust-brown, etc.  And when THESE colors appear, they usually do so in some kind of pretty pattern associated with the veins or with the edges or with the contours of the leaf.  Such patterned color-changes on the fans of the in-flower integrated leaves are the indication of the maturation of the flowers.  Your plants have definitely not reached this point yet.

I do wish to say, however, I disagree with your assessment, that the flowers are opening.  They HAVE BEEN opening ever since the white pistils aka. stigma) had been showing.  When a hairy pistil pair shows itself, that IS the flower.  And your plant is still producing flowers. That is good.  Let them continue to do so.  As long as new pistil hairs keep appearing, the flowers are still developing.

But I see something else happening as well.  I give you a cigar, because you will be a "Papa".  I see ripening seed pods.  This I can see witthout a doubt.  Don't worry; you have done nothing wrong.  It's just that somewhere within a couple kilometers there has been a male plant to open its pollen sacks, and the wind or wasp- or bee- pollinators have brought the pollen to your girl.  You will get seeds.  It appears that the flowers are  still producing white hairs (pistils).  As long as she keeps pushing out new white hairs, then she is producing more flowers.

It's OK, that happens when you grow outdoors.  You'll still get some good smoke, just with a few seeds, and the THC will be somewhat reduced, but I expect the harvest will still be worth allowing her to contine to grow and mature.  When that happens to me (and it just did happen to me two weeks ago in my tent; while I was away for 4 days, a plant popped male and I discovered it just as the first sacks started to open), then I simply accept that I will harvest a bit later.  Seeds survive their upcoming germination much better if they are allowed to develop longer on their mama.  If you harvest too early, you will have only a minimum of low-potency smoke and immature seeds that will not germinate.  Harvesting later, at least you will have given the girl a chance to create more mass and a bit more mature Trichomes to raise the overall production of THC, and as well, you will allow the maturation of the seeds to elevate the germination rate for this batch of seeds.

Don't go banging your head against the fence, it's a learning experience.  I hope that you can accept this experience as FUN; after all, you are growing ganja, mään.  It IS fun.  If in the future, you want sensimilla (seedless) and you still want to grow outdors in soil, consider erecting a greenhouse or at least a plastic tent-structure to grow your girls in.  The goal is to control what air reaches the girl while still allowing maximum sunlight.  Of course, you then become further responsible for all other aspects of the plant's environment (temperature, humidity, watering, air circulation), just exactly the same as all the rest of us growers.  Lots of DIY (do-it-yourself) greenhouse plans can be seen on youtube.  Or you could go ahead and plan an indoor closet or tent system.  Either way, the plant becomes 100% dependent on you for its environment. 

As for this girl, I still recommend your erecting some kind of covering above the plant that allows the sunlight to come through, but which will help to prevent raindrops hitting the flowers directly.  The game now is to try to prevent the rain from diluting the THC glands, while still allowing plenty of air-flow and sunlight to keep the floweers dry to prevent mold.  Using a white gardening fleece, the raindrops are not allowed to hit the flowers with full-force, but rather they are slowed-down and partly turned into smaller mist droplets which do less damage to the Trichomes and dry-out quicker.  If installed at an angle, some of the water that is captured in the fleece can then flow to the lower edge of the fleece and drop harmless to the ground, still feeding the roots in the ground.  Sure, some raindrops do get through, but it's not the same as a full down-pour.  Effectively, the plant still gets rain, just a bit gentler on the flowers.  This is very similar to the protection of tomato plants that are grown in the open.  They too require some kind of protection against direct rain to prevent mold issues and to increase their flowering success.  Just be sure that your construction is stable enough to withstand wind and not fall on the plant, and that the fleece is taut enough that it will not sag onto the plant when it gets wet or cause a low-point from which water streams onto the plant.

Now that the flowers are forming, you can help the plant to direct its energy to that task.  In the lower 1/4 of the plant there are many many smaller fan-leaves that for the most-part are sitting in the shadows of the upper leaves.  These leaves, although green or light green, because they are mostly in the shadows, cannot contribute their full potential to the plant, and the plant is having to expend some of its energy to maintain them.  i would recommend removing them.  This allows the plant to re-direct more energy to the development of the flowers.  Aditionally, the plant responds to their removal by creating extra growth hormones that benefit the leaves and growth nodes and flowers that remain on the plant.

Pruning away the useless leaves in the lower 1/4, you may notice an accelerated growth of leaves or flowers after a while (a week or so).  When that is noticed, then you may want to repeat the procedure to the lower 1/3, and then again to the lower 1/2.

I hope that these ideas are helpful...

'Sapean

[Cannabissapean]

Oh Gosh, my Friend, now I know what is going on.  You had informed me in a private message that you are not in the southern hemisphere.  Your location is the missing information that prevented me from being able to accurately assess this plant.  (I had earlier thought that you were in the southern hemisphere, South Africa, or South Brazil or Australia.) 

Now that I know that you are in the northern hemisphere (specificaly there where you said, I know that area), I suddenly realized another factor that is affecting the way your girl is behaving.  (Now I know how you were able to get that special nutrient so easily too...)  Where you are, you have 3 to 4 growing seasons for many plants, and for this plant in particular, your location offers a very short dark-photoperiod and a relatively long vegg photoperiod.

You started her indoors, then transferred her outdoors in early early spring.  Ahaa...

In early spring, the photoperiod was still a wee bit short, therefore, she responded and began flowering.  But as the photoperiod continued to lengthen as spring turns into summer, she has responded again by beginning to revert back to vegetative stage, right in mid-flower.  She is now at the stage where she is still producing a few pistils, but she is definitely returning to vegetative stage.  She is not dying.  Her flowering will soon stop, and she WILL begin growing again.  This means that you now have a choice. 

You can decide to harvest her now.  Not recommended; the smoke will be weak and the seeds will not be mature enough to germinate. The plant is not dead nor is it dying, so why kill it.

Or you can harvest her in another 3 to 4 weeks.  Also not recommended; (it is still possible by your location that she has been pollinated) some of the seeds will have matured enough in that time, but because she is reverting back to vegg, her smoke wil be very weak in THC, and it will taste horrible because she is reverting her chemistry back to the vegetative chemistry, not harvest-stage chemistry.  Again, the plant is not dead nor is she dying, so why kill it.

Or you can allow her to grow and re-flower again in late July or August, with a possible harvest in August or September.  (If your security/stealth situation is favorable or able to be improved if you think it is necessary, this is definitely the way I would go.  I would also consider maybe a modified harvest-plan, such that if the seedpods/flowers appear to be worthy of a harvest, then just top them away and dry them, but do allow the rest of the plant to continue in its re-vegg.  Topping-away the seedpods/flowers will help her to complete the hormonal conversion back to vegetative as well.)

I do now highly recommend this longer wait.  And to help her through it, I recommend even moreso, the protective cover described in my guidance, although that can now wait until August.  I expect this girl is perfectly timed in its reversion to vegg, that she will grow really big over the hot summer; she will re-flower again in late July or August, and she will need some help to hold up her heavy branches, so get some bamboo sticks and some strings.  You're gonna have a monster.

And while you know that a monster is virtually guaranteed in your back yard for this summer, now you can begin putting together plans for your next batch of seeds either indoors or outdoors, BUT germinated AT THE RIGHT TIME based on your "planned" grow, LOL.

Friend, I think that fate has smiled on you, and you have been blessed wth a very rare opportunity to witness and be a part of a re-vegg event on your very first-grow.  if you do choose the longer road, and i hope you do because I certainly would if I were you, then during this summer, watch the seed pods, and in about 3 or 4 weeks from now, or when the pods themselves begin to turn colors, either top them away or carefully break-off the seed pods and possibly some of the trichome-coated leaves, without harming the plant's stems and the new leaves that are certain to begin showing themselves.  This way, you will have a few good seeds, you will have a little flower material to dry-out for some "experimental" smokes.  Plus, the plant will again respond positively; when the seedpods are removed, the plant's hormones will adjust to again concentrate her energy on vegetative growth.  If you can pull this off, and I believe looking at your plant that it is already well underway to the re-vegg, this grow will provide us viewers with a rare opportunity to see a well-documented re-vegg monster and harvest.

Additionally, if after reading this and you agree with me that she is successfully beginning to produce new leaves and vegetative growth, then I would recommend returning to veg nutrients at 1/4 strength, and save the Tiger Bloom for July and August.

I will certainly continue to follow this grow.

This is phenomenal.

[Ram Tegia]

Sapean,

You diagnosed my wonderful mistake perfectly. As a new grower, I surmised, in error, that if the inside veg is longer, relative to the outside - I effectively "trick " the plant into flowering. Well the plant is smarter than me, by a wide margin. 

I am painfully considering an immediate harvest. Stealth is a concern, along with the impending rain, it is better to try again at the appropriate time 

Growing is fun, not today because of what must be done, but the process is a learning experience. I greatly appreciate your guidance. 

Also, thanks to this great forum and site, truly excellent.

[Cannabissapean]

Aaaaaahhhhhh, , not a complete harvest, please............

OK, kill what you must, but leave a few stems to push out some leaves.  no one will be able to see...

Perfect small-growth stealth that could turn into something............

Aaaarrrggghhhhhhh.......

Pink Floyd, careful with that Axe, Eugene

 

One of the few songs in which every player in the band has a memorable part. The fucking guitar, the fucking bass line, the fucking drumming and the glorious and legendery Rick Wright. Goddamnit, this is too good. -Cohen

 

If you never have, watch the entire concert at Pompeii on youtube. -'Sapean