Super MOD
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Cannabissapean

  1. Love.raggae, If you are spraying your plants with tap-water or mineral-water, then those white spots might be the mineral residues remaining after the water evaporates. I recommend that you mist your plants with distilled water instead. Otherwise, since you are giving us no information other than the pictures, it is difficult for us to help you. If you really want help from us, you need to write something. If you are only using a mobile device, then you won't be able to communicate very well in this forum. You can better participate in this forum when you use a computer or full-sized laptop. Additionally, your pictures are sideways because you are using a mobile device. To correct that, you need to load those pictures onto a real computer, open them in Paint (or a similar application), correct the orientation, THEN SAVE. After that, when you upload the saved photos to the forum, they will be displayed correctly.
  2. ShaggyGrower, Sorry I hadn't seen this grow journal until just now. I see that you are having problems with the seedling stage, and I know why. Your soil looks too dense, and therefore it holds too much water and doesn't allow very much oxygen to the roots. Cannabis must have oxygen at its roots in order to grow optimally. Your soil contains no Perlite (or a similar material) which is essential to allow the soil to drain well and to allow oxygen to get to the roots between waterings. It may be too late to try to correct this for these babies since they are so far along, but maybe you'll be lucky and they might survive this stage. But I do highly recommend that you prepare the soil for the final pots using significant amounts of Perlite. Also, in the future, (I assume that these are not Autos) your first seedling pot should be smaller. only about 4 or 5 inches. If the seedling pot is too big (as is this red one), then watering is difficult to judge, and your signal to transplant (the root-tips showing at the bottom of the pot) occurs much too late. Also, the soil that is used for the seedling should not be so rich as "bat soil mix". Again, you might be lucky; they might survive to the transplant stage, but seedlings need virtually no nutrients for the first couple weeks because they are being fed from their cotyledons (baby leaves). And seedlings are very susceptible to nutrient burn until they have established their roots. Usually, it is best to wait until after the cotyledons begin to shrivel up before introducing any nutrients. For the future, I would recommend your using just simple seedling soil with nothing except some Perlite added for the seedling stage. Save the bat soil mix for use with Perlite and a number of other amendments when mixing your soil for the final pots. If you haven't yet seen how to mix soil for cannabis, I recommend that you view some recipes for "supersoil for cannabis". Use these words in search on Google or on YouTube, and you will see many recipes. By viewing these recipes, you will begin to get an idea how to mix soil for cannabis. Good Luck forward-going.
  3. Welcome to StrainHunters, Reemy. So, how do you want to start? Soil indoors or Soil outdoors?
  4. I just editted it again. Read again. The smoothie can intensify your smoke or vape.
  5. Here's a thought. It is now Autumn. I think that nature's photoperiod is close to 12/12 now. Consider setting the big S3 near a window. It doesn't have to be direct sunlight. If she is now in flower, then she doesn't need really intensive lighting to continue to mature. Set her there and let her mature toward am early harvest after another 3 or 4 weeks (maybe you'll get a minimal yield, but at least you'll get a nice taste of her). If persons from outside can see too easily into that window, consider hanging sheer white drapes or a clear plastic at that window, that at least a little daylight can get in. Of course, you know your situation better than I do. I do something similar with my flowering plants. When a plant has produced sufficient flowers and trichomes, and I need the space in the flowering tent for a plant that has begun to pre-flower, I simply remove the nearly finished plant from the tent and I set her on a table in the grow-room where I have no lights except the normal room lighting. There, I allow her to mature; the large fanleaves continue to turn colors, and with just one more feeding of water, the flowers continue to expand just a little. Day after day, I also remove dead or dieing leaves until I finally declare the day of final cut and hang. Of course, you have to understand, I am a perpetual optimist when it comes to cannabis. If you do decide to chop her down without sufficient flowering or trichomes for a decent smoke, then please do enjoy a cannabis smoothie: In a blender, 1 quartered and cored apple, 1 peeled orange (seeds removed), 1 banana, nice handful of green, healthy cannabis leaves (fresh or dried), maybe a bit of water to help the blender, maybe a little bit of ice if you wish. Blend and enjoy. It's THC is not activated so you won't get high, but a cannabis smoothie is good for the digestion, calms an upset stomach. You can also sit on your front porch and enjoy your smoothie in full public view. Hahahahaaaa! And if you do smoke a doobie an hour or two later, the non-activated THC already in your blood will act as a catalyst to intensify the high of your smoke or vape. Also do not throw away all those remaining healthy green leaves. Simply hang them and let them dry. After they are dry, I bag them and keep them in my kitchen just like dried Rosemary or other dried herbs. I use them as toppings over baked potatoes or pizzas or whatever. Obviously you don't want to keep yellowing or brown or diseased leaves. Only the healthy green ones.
  6. It is natural that a plant needs a bit of recovery time after a fim or a topping. To help it recover, just be sure that lighting, temperature, humidity are at their best. Soil should not be too wet; pH should be correct at each feeding. If the soil is too wet or you think that there is not enough oxygen at the roots, you can simply use a sharp pencil and shove it down into the soil at various locations to make air-shafts. They will close again at the next feeding. Also air movement must be good to ensure that there is sufficient CO2.
  7. Sounds like it is time to flush S3 and set her in the flower tent. Let S1 and S2 go one or two weeks longer before their flush and switch. Oh shucks. You have only one tent, right? OK, flush all 3 plants, then set S3 out of the light in a dark closet for 2 or 3 days to blitz her into flowering mode. Then when you bring her back to the light, switch all 3 plants to 12/12. Feeding is now flowering-feeding.
  8. When trimming cannabis, it is best to take branches off just above a node. In other words, don't leave long stubs. Long stubs will not survive, and they contain lots of water that could turn mushy or moldy. They take longer to dry-out. But don't cut too close to the node. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. If cut too close to the node and a pathogen gets into the cut, then in no time, the disease can enter the node. If the stub is 1/4 to 1/2 inch long, then there is enough stem there to fight a pathogen before it gets to the node. As well, it is short enough that it can die and dry-out rather quickly. Once a stem is dried-out, then it acts as a sealant to the node and stops the travel of the pathogens.
  9. g22, In relation to the plant that is covering-over its LST-site: I think the LST-site being covered by the fan leaves is only a temporary problem. But if it bothers you, then I would recommend that you remove only the small leaflets that are covering the LST-site, BUT NOT the whole fan leaf. The plant needs these large fan leaves; they are the power-factories necessary for growth of the plant.
  10. LOL, LedCherryBerry. Your watermelon should be transplanted into the ground now. And because you used that plastic bottle with ridges and the neck, you'll have to perform surgery to cut the bottle open in order to get the rootball out intact. Good Luck, Doctor. And yes, LOL, the watermelon will continue to perform its own LST pretty much permanently from here on. She needs lots of space to grow in the sun. By the way, watermelons and pumpkins like to grow in large mounds of soil mixed with lots of compost. And they don't like to grow UP on anything. They like to spread everywhere over the ground.
  11. Magnificent looking plants. Towers of gold, green and purple THC. Enjoy your harvest!
  12. A friendly member here in StrainHunters @hexx_NL has demonstrated her method of re-using soil in which cannabis had previously grown. Here's how she does it. In preparation for a transplant, she first removes the stump of an old cannabis plant from its final pot of soil, leaving the soil and the old dead roots intact in the large final pot. Then she removes the "small plant to be transplanted" along with its nearly root-bound root-ball from its smaller pot and simply sets the root-ball directly on top of the old soil of the final pot. Yeah, maybe she opens the hole up a little bit, but the special characteristic of her method is that the new plant and its rootball sit higher, and air can easily get to the upper roots of the small rootball. The lower one-third to one-half of the small rootball is what now grows roots into the final pot, right alongside the old dead roots of the previous plant. She claims that it seems that the new plant recognizes that a cannabis plant had grown there before, and so the new plant grows comfortably there. Just thought you might like to hear about that technique. In the past, I have reused soil from a cannabis grow to mix directly into a "supersoil mix", but not very often. I haven't yet attempted Hexx_NL's technique yet, but after writing this, I may try it sometime next year; an experiment. But I definitely DO reuse the soil from cannabis grows by mixing it in with all the other compost ingredients and after the worms and critters and microbes have had their shot at it for a year. But then I no longer consider it to be soil, I consider it to be compost, and therefore only an amendment.
  13. Yeah, the other soils that I throw in do not comprise any large percentage of the whole. They're just small left-over soils, but NOT used soils. I have thrown in small amounts of such soils as: bonsai soil mix, soil for citrus trees, cactus soil, tomato soil, rhodadendron or azalea soil, most any soil that is tested to have a pH between 5,0 and 7,0. But NOT soils with any timed-release fertilizer; the time-release feature will often result in nutrient spikes at the wrong times for cannabis during its lifecycle. But that's not to say that I just throw stuff together without seriously thinking about what is in it. I do read the contents and judge whether its contents might be something that cannabis can use. I do create my mixes with the goal in mind of approaching the nutritional values that one sees in soils prepared in the various "supersoil for cannabis" recipes found online or in YouTube, but I try to avoid mixing a soil that is too sharp for cannabis.
  14. My composting. I run six composters. Four of them are for grass-clippings and general yard waste (leaves and sticks and weeds and such), occasionally large bulk of rotting vegetables from the garden, and occasionally the vegetable kitchen-waste. For moisture, I sprinkle rainwater or pondwater into the composters whenever they look dry or when it seems that their activity has reduced. I open them to the rain if I happen to remember. I close them against the sunlight if I happen to remember. I turn these composters about once or twice a year. When I harvest the compost (on average, every two years) I basically shovel the stuff over a sieve. (I use a rough throw-sieve which is commonly available at any garden center.) That stuff that is not yet rotted to an unrecognizeable state or which is still large enough that it does not fall through the sieve, I throw back in the bottom of a cleaned-out composter to start that composter anew. The black stuff that does fall through the sieve is the rich stuff that I spread into my growhouse (for vegetables, not cannabis) just before I turn the soil in late Fall sometime between Halloween and Thanksgiving. Or, I may throw that black compost over the surface of the outer-garden just before I perform the tilling in the late Fall and early Spring. OK, that was those 4 composters. The other two composters are a bit more special. In the other 2 composters, I throw only the cream of the crop kind of wastes: First of all, NO grass-clippings. I throw in: cannabis leaves and sticks from taking-down and trimmimg my cannabis plants, nearly all the vegetable kitchen-wastes, the leaves from my apple and cherry trees, the shredded limbs from the cherry and apple trees, forest-floor composted leaves collected from nearby piles of leaves in the community (adds natural microbes), and the soils from the finished potted cannabis plants, but never soils from other plants in the house (they contain fertilizers for decorative plants and may also contain diseases that I dont want in my cannabis), only cannabis soils. The kitchen-waste never contains meats or oils from cooking, only vegetable debris or molding breads. (Meats and cooking oils will attract the wrong kind of critters to the compost: mice, rats, meat-flies, bot-flies, maggots, etc.) Three or four times each year, I sprinkle about 15 liters of rainwater or pond water into each composter to add microbes and moisture, and that really gets things going. Into these two composters, I also throw earthworms everytime I find one while doing yardwork. The worms and all the other critters that live in the composters will work along with the microbes to consume and break-down the vegetable matter, turning it into worm-dung, critter-dung and the wastes from bacteria and fungus. These waste-products are exactly what plants love. But the compost alone cannot be the soil. The compost is only an amendment. I turn these 2 composters also about once or twice a year. When I harvest these special composters (on average, every year) I sieve them the same as the other composters, but then I sieve them again with a finer sieve. (Here's a tip: Do you have an old oscillating fan that no longer works? Don't throw it away without saving the fan-guard. The fan-guard (made of expanded mesh) is the perfect garden-sieve. It is the perfect size, and the holes are just perfect to create a very fine compost.) This fine compost I put into large plastic bags (dog-food style bags with the zip locks) and I allow it to sit closed for 2 or 3 months or longer (better, for a year in order to kill-off the various creatures that had been so active in the composter, because I don't want them crawling out of my cannabis soils and infesting my grow area). When I mix my next batch of "supersoil for cannabis", this fine compost is definitely one of the amendments. The microbes will become active again as soon as I mix the compost with the new soil and add water. I also add a little Mychorrhizae to my supersoils just to be sure it is active. It is always a good practice to allow a freshly-mixed and moistened supersoil to sit covered for 2 or 3 months before use to allow the microbes and fungi to become fully active before use. So plan ahead and mix your soil and moisten it in advance of when you will need to use it.
  15. The grow sessions are found outside the forum walls now. Search Youtube for "Grow Sessions", and you get this: Each session is about a different strain and describes the nutrition and conditions under which Franco had grown that plant at that time. Here in the forum, Franco (under the alias "") had posted a series of Articles called "Franco's Tricks" where he discusses his various techniques, tips and tricks:
  16. cryptolab, You may thank Arjan Roskam and Franco Loja and their friends and employees for this site. Your goals to learn, to collect, and to serve the cannabis growing community are exactly the same as many of us in here. Welcome to Strain Hunters. To "point you in their direction", I recommend simply your remaining an active member in the forum and thereby, meet other forum members over time. Participation through posting questions, answers, general comments, and through the creation of a grow journal will awaken the interest of other members. So, that being said, can you open a grow journal? What strains are you growing? What techniques are you using? What particular problems or pests are you combatting? What special tricks or techniques would you like to share with us? Be sure to post pictures, too. This forum is especially fond of photos.
  17. g22, I agree with your assessment that the root-pouch (airpot) should be used only as the final pot. Because of the potential for significant damage to the roots when transferring out of an air-pot, I had never even considered using an air-pot for the small pot.
  18. I wouldn't water at pH 10. You were having positive progress with the pH while watering at 6,8. The runoff is improving. Why mess with success? If you have already flushed, then I wouldn't recommend an additional flush. However, if you haven't flushed, then SlimJim's suggestion to perform a flush for soil-pH correction shouldn't hurt. And yes, it is possible that Sativas and Indicas have different nutrition requirements. That theme is sometimes discussed in the Grow-Sessions with Franco and Arjan. You are experiencing a common problem that occurs when growing different strains all at the same time. Each strain should be "read" separately, and their nutrients and other conditions should be adjusted separately. It happens to me, too. When I grow 3 or 4 different strains at one time, I usually feed them all the same at first, but eventually one strain (or one plant) will begin to show some kind of weakness. At that time, I begin to diverge their feeding plans or feeding mixes; for the ailing plant, I make specific adjustments in the nutrient mix and i feed that plant separately. Sometimes, depending on the plant's reaction, the divergence is only for one or two feedings; other times, the plant demands a permanently different feeding schedule. It also occurs that that same strain grown with a different set of companion strains might be one of the strong plants, and one of the other strains is the weaker strain. Basically, because I mix my soil mixes with a combination of Plagron Mix + some of my own Compost + some forest floor leaf compost + some Worm Humus + Perlite + whatever other UNUSED soil is left over in various bags of soil in my home that seems right for the current mix, I never mix my soils the same each time. And I rarely follow a set schedule of feeding. I do use the manufacturer's charts as a guideline, but I never mix at full strength. I try to let the plant tell me what it likes and dislikes. I try to grow mainly relying on the soil mix to provide the basic nutrition, using a minimum of the chemical ferts. I let the plant tell me what its deficiencies are, then I adjust the feeding solution at each feeding to try to correct those deficiencies.
  19. It sounds like you are starting to win the battle. Run-off pH coming up to better levels, (target = 6,2 to 6,5). It is normal that growth is stunted when you have mites. Mites wil also stunt the bud production if they are still there, so remain dilligent and aggressive. Have a nice Sunday nap my friend.
  20. That's what I have heard. And yes, even the tomato fruits are poisonous until they are ripe. And not just Tomatoes; Potatoes are also poisonous on all green parts, even on the potato root-fruit (the tuber). If the Tuber is exposed to the sun while in the ground, the exposed portion wll develop chlorophyl and that portion is poisonous. But now that I have written that here, I am embarrassed that I didn't follow-up with research. So, I shall look for some info to back that up. Here it is. (Simple Search for "Are Tomatoes poisonous?" reveals many answers. Here is just one of them.): And for Potatoes. (Simple Search for "Are Potatoes poisonous?...): In fact, many of the foods we eat originate from plants that contain poisons. It is often a matter of which part we eat, or it is a matter of cooking them in order to eliminate the poison, not always possible with all toxins. (MUST READ: The seeds of Cherries and Apples contain cyanide. DON'T EAT THE SEEDS!!!): And to address your mention of zucchinis, here is a Wikipedia article on zucchinis. Apparently, for the commercial market, zucchinis have been bred to have lower levels of its toxin - cucurbitacin. But seeds from older heirloom strains or from ornamental varieties may still contain significant amounts of the toxin. The main thing to be aware of is the taste. If your zucchini is bitter, don't eat it. It is also reecommended NOT to save the seeds from your own zucchinis, gourds and cucumbers for the purpose of growing them for food. If your edible plants have become pollinated by the pollen from a neighbor's decorative (possibly poisonous) plant, then the poisonous properties may be imparted into the seeds in that fruit that you just now ate. Even though the fruit you ate wasn't poisonous, the fruit that results from those seeds might be poisonous. Caution, the toxin cucurbitacin is NOT eliminated by cooking: A man in Germany died from eating Zucchini Stew:
  21. Tomatoes are slightly poisonous on the green parts. You know that tomatoes are closely related to Nightshade, right? Besides, if you had a choice which plant to eat, which plant would you choose to chew? I'm not going away. I'm here if you need me. Plants are looking fab.
  22. Glad that I could help...
  23. Nice, Flowers-to-the-People. I understand and agree. The person who thinks he knows it all has thereby immediately limited his scope of understanding. The person who accepts the truth and remains inquisitive and seeks to learn more has the vastness of the universe for his horizon.

About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

Social Network

Add us on social networks