Catwoman

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About Catwoman

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  1. OMG, I'm so sorry fellas. OMG
  2. Thank you for the link, Nordic Grower. What has happened to the site? Thinga aren't working well. Is it shutting down? This is so sad.
  3. pH in water and soil is important. But it is the pH of the soil that the roots react with in soil grows. The Setting of pH of the feeding water is performed in order to tweek the pH of the soil. Try this: When the soil is dry again, or at your next scheduled feeding time, prep a Liter of water pH'd to 7,0. Pour that "test water" through the pot and collect the run-off in a clean Container. The Container must also have been previously cleaned and then rinsed with water of pH 7,0, otherwise the results will be corrupted by the residues in the Container. Measure the resulting pH of the test water run-off. Then you will have some idea what is Happening inside the soil. If the pH of the testwater run-off is low, then feed or water using a mixture pH'd just slightly higher (~0,2 pH) than your target pH. (And visa versa for run-off too high). (Example, testwater run-off pH = 5,0. Your target is 6,2. Feed mixture to be pH'd to ~6,4 - 6,5.) Now measure again the run-off after the actual feeding, similarly collecting the run-off in a clean container. Measure again and compare. The pH of the soil should Show some improvement with each new feeding in this manner. Your water is 8 - 8,5. That is usually too high for weed and must be lowered. Is that tap water? Sometimes tapwater contains undesired minerals or chlorine. Try switching to rainwater. Another Thing: I have experienced sometimes a delayed correction of pH, meaning that what I just now adjusted to let's say pH 5,9, if I let it sit for 30 minutes and measure again will now be 6,6. It could be that fresh mixtures (especially when some unknown Minerals are involved) may still be undergoing some delayed chemical reactions which will certainly Change pH. Try allowing your freshly-pH'd mixture to sit for 30 minutes, finish its reactions, and then check the pH again before feeding. Tweek everso slightly to avoid overshooting. Good Luck.
  4. If it is completely broken away and it occurred LOWER than the first internode, there is Little you can do. The plant is lost. If it is still attached and the stem snapped open, you can try to save her by closing the gap (within a few seconds or so after the break occurred), stabilize it and it MIGHT grow back together, (like a drastic LST), but survival is sort of doubtful at this early stage. The main Problem is that the cambrium tissues at the site of the break must not dry out. If it is still attached and the stem did NOT snap open, then no Problem. You have just LST'd your plant. If she survives, in a couple days she will stand again with a stem a bit stronger than before. If the break occurred ABOVE the first or second or third internode, then congratulations! You have just topped your plant, and it should continue to grow from the growth nodes at each internode, producing two tops. Post some pics so we can see your work.
  5. I feel certain that is not possible, because the fan leaf does not have any new growth nodes.
  6. She's pretty too. Well done, Hasis. Right Ghost, the more the better.
  7. Mildew? all I can suggest is air circulation and regulating humidity with an extraction fan. Without Pictures or further info, it's difficult to give further advice. Looking Forward to further Posts.
  8. Welcome to Strain Hunters. We look Forward to seeing your growpics. Post your questions so we can help
  9. Welcome to Strain Hunters. We love to help with grow advice. Post your questions, post some pics so we can see the girls, and then we may be able to help you.
  10. Welcome back. Feel free to post a few pics and let us know what's Happening with your Girls.
  11. Sorry I cannot write Russian, but this Looks like a success Story. (by the Skin of your teeth). Wonderful! Despite the early winter and extreme northern lattitude, you got some smokable weed and a handful of beans to boot. For your next year (now), I suggest that you grow seedlings indoors under lights from February until May or June, then harden them off in the outdoors for a week, and THEN transplant to the soil. I think you will have greater success. Also, after you have enough seeds, try to kill the males before they spread their pollen. Wonderful Grow.
  12. Welcome to the Forums. If you gotta grow, post some pics.
  13. Welcome friend. Are you able to post any pics of your grow? That's what this Forum really digs.
  14. Something else, you don't have to harvest an entire plant all at once. If some buds are ahead of others, you can harvest them first and continue pushing the less mature buds. The buds remaining on the plant now have more light and circulation, and the plant can direct its remaining energy and resources to the remaining buds, potentially increasing their yield. That way, you satisfy that insatiable desire to begin curing and continue to proceed toward a weightier and longer-flushed final harvest. That would also give you the opportunity to compare harvests with different flushing durations. The taste, the burnability, etc.
  15. Ok, judging by the picture, in my opinion, she looks in excellent health. She can still Stretch and make loads more buds. The pistils look very lush and still White. I see no turning of Colors, so I think she will Stretch some more, and if she does, that means more buds. My Suggestion is: Keep up exactly your current feed schedule for one more watering, then make an interruption as follows: After the next scheduled feeding, let her dry out about 3 or 4 days. At that time, perform a mid-flowering flush with 6.2 pH'd water (in one feeding, slowly feed 3-times the volume of the Container). The purpose of the mid-flowering flush is to flush unusable residues (salts) from the veg and early flowering phases out of the soil. This will also help the plant to throw off (during the following 2 to 3 days) the excessive salts dissolved within it's cambrium tissues. After those 2-3 days, the soil is somewhat dry again or when it seems she is demanding water (wilting fan leaves), then resume the feeding schedule for budding (according to your nute instructions). Continue the schedule while she Stretches and further buds appear. Consider cutting the feeding in half, even to one-quarter the scheduled feeding doses. Remember you are growing in soil, so many of the nutes are already built into the eco-System of the soil. Now, during Stretch, (which could last 2 to 4 weeks longer depending on the strain, light, temps, etc.) those wonderful White hairs will continue to multiply outward and mostly upward. When you begin to notice that some of the hairs on lower positions begin to change color towards Brown or yellow, No Panic. And you're still not Close to best harvest time... Now perform a late flowering flush same as before. After this dries 2-3 days, now mix and feed a "Top Feeding"(such as one feeding Batch of BioBizz Top-Max or other manufacturer's "Final Solution".) Do this for one feeding. Final Solutions help the plant to continue Trichomes production and help the plant to rid itself of excess salts at the final stages of it's maturation. After this "Final solution" feeding, there will be no more nutes added. All feeding after the "final solution" should be only water from then on out every 2-3 days or whenever the wilt dictates as usual. Now begin to watch the Trichomes closely. New Trichs are clear. They will begin to turn cloudy. When about one-third of the Trichomes have turned cloudy, perform the last 3xvolume flush with pH'd water. Now just sit back and wait. The plant is now beginning to die as planned. Harvest is near. Now the Trichomes will begin to turn Amber. When about 10% Trichs on lower buds have ambered or when more than 50% Trichs Overall have turned cloudy, then it is ready to cut. Of course, The above is only a description of the optimal maturing of a plant. Differences in strains, nutes, pH, temps, light, diseases, pests, and the owner's care and Patience play a role as to when is the best time to harvest. The decision is entirely yours. But I do know this, the better and longer the flushing, the sweeter and tastier the bud. The idea after the Trichs begin to cloud is not to Keep the plant alive, rather to help it die toward harvest in a cleaner state.

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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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