Patricia

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  1. You do good work Toaor I shall look out for more from you in the future
  2. I don't wanna comment and say anyone's OG is better than someone else's OG There are infinite numbers, most of them rip-offs of the original Having said that, although I'm not talking a straight OG, I had good luck recently with an OG x Chem #4. It's called Em-Dog. It's available from Humboldt Seed Organisation. Part of the B-Real stuff of theirs. It contains one OG-dominant pheno that is very tall and lanky, strong fuel, pine and earth scent. Strong as hell. Very reminiscent of everything you would look for in an OG to me Here's a pic for you so yeah this was from hot summer run, so I reckon she would be even more dense if you kept temps in perfect order but yeah very flavourful and strong as oxes; I kept a cut of this one there are other phenos too obviously; I would think this one comes up pretty often though in a five pack, in a ten pack you probably get her for sure guaranteed every single time but that's as close to 'original' OG as I have ever found in my garden; however I am not an OG maniac, but have grown various Kush crosses, some based on OG stock, apparently at least good hunting
  3. plants outdoors can flower with 14 hours light due apparently to the fact of far-red lightwaves that are given off by the sun at sunset and also reflected in the moon, priming the plant to quickly go to sleep, allowing a stronger flowering response under fewer dark hours this is the whole concept behind those deep red indoor 'flower initiator' bulbs you turn on for ten mins right before the lights go off the key is in the dark period indoors: you could run a whole different calendar with 19 hour days followed by 12 hour nights, the result would still be flowering I'd be willing to bet But indoors without far-red spectra, if you go under 12 hours dark, you may not see the hard onset of flowering like you would with 12/12. Don't expect it to work like outside is what I'm saying dude best of luck and please report your findings in any case
  4. I agree 100% with the above too Once they show that hermie trait in any serious fashion, the party's over as far as using the pollen I would think I am certainly no expert generally or on breeding in particular though good luck
  5. wood ashes are definitely best composted first, otherwise they can cause problems if just topdressed them on or whatever, high alkalinity being the culprit; I learnt this the hard way once, don't ask LOL biochar and charcoal are entirely two different things and biochar production requires low oxygen conditions and is not the same as lumps of coal out of your open fireplace. Apparently it also needs to be 'activated' to be a nutrient addition as opposed to a nutrient sink. The way you go about that is to make the char in a way approximate to what was described above by nvmedigrower, put it all in a bucket and then... Wait for it... Pee in it. LOL I'm not even kidding, yes you pee in it. Then allow the char to soak it up, and then turn the bucket upside down on one of your best and most diverse garden beds, so you have basically created a closed bucket-dome with the pee-soaked char resting on the bare soil. And then leave it for a good while (like a month would probably be a good start)to populate with all the beneficial microbes from your local area, 'activating' it There are other methods of doing the activation bit, but really this is the simplest and most cost-free method for us mere mortals that aren't in the business of biochar manufacturing and just want like 25L at a time or whatever to support our hobby growing or you could just buy it LOL sure be easier, but it has been my experience with this kind of organic stuff like biochar, castings and composts; the shop bought stuff is nowhere near as impressive as your own homemade once you get it right happy growing pat
  6. Hi budma welcome to the forum I don't know about 'don't remove any leaves', I think you have to be sensible, especially indoors; but as far as stripping plants bare, I'm the wrong person to give you any advice, it's not my way generally no doubt someone will be along with the relevant chat though, some knowledgeable folks about the place
  7. Welcome Roo I am new around these parts myself she is a beauty; I too have often found the ones with some kinda quirk to them turn out to be something special see you around
  8. I know it's a contentious topic, that of defoliation In my humble opinion, the wholesale removal of leaves and essentially stripping the plant bare runs contrary to the laws of botany and nature However, that said, I think indoors you have to be sensible and issues like air circulation with larger plants, big colas and tight spaces are a serious concern. So a little lolly popping and removal of a few of the largest fans that are really clogging up the works is fine I think. Essentially cleaning up things for better optimization if you like. But yeah full on defoliation as a high yield technique? I don't know... And yeah I have tried it once or twice and I just don't agree personally, but hey, if it's working for you then more power to you dude Pat
  9. I do very well starting seeds in eazy plugs. I just soak the plugs in tap water real good, do not squeeze any excess water out but just let them drain properly, and put them back in the tray with little labels, pop the seeds in, and throw them in a shut little clone dome. Don't add any water or anything, at stable 24 C you will have them pop in under three days every time, unless you are working with some old seed someone has held for a very long time or something, then there are all kinds of other techniques to help germ old stock, like scuffing (scarification) etc The eazy plug method literally never fails me unless I try to get creative somehow and change something Those are very bad germ rates though you had for sure Nirvana, was the seed from a reputable source? Bad storage of their product maybe or something? Hope you are having better luck with it now
  10. Nice one Dust much appreciated for the help, it just makes for much nicer looking and easier to read posts eh
  11. so I guess I better put my money where my mouth is on a side note, does anyone know how I would go about placing pictures inline between text in a post instead of as a dump of attachments at the end? Can that even be done here at SH forums? Thanks for the help now obviously if you were looking to grow a single plant in an ornamental bonsai kinda style, you may do things a little different of course, because you want a lot of plant matter and fast growth maybe, but I am simply looking to basically keep alive a bunch of mother stock with as little work or input as possible. There are possibly valid considerations as to the sustained health of the mothers when kept this way, and it is fairly vital that if they have been neglected, you nurse them back to health before attempting to grow out cuts of them. Otherwise I do not see the genetics becoming diluted from some funky starvation reveg whatever action So yeah first and second pic is Critical+ 2.0 (Dinafem); she has been going nearly two years in that pot third and fourth pic is Money Maker (SH); she maybe has a year and a half fifth is an Em-Dog (HSO and B-Real); this one was a cut from last round and is still in the smallest pot, about a half liter or something sixth is a Blue Widow (Dinafem); doing that stupid starving out, then flowering a bit as a last ditch attempt at continuing the genetic line, before being fed back to health and starting the reveg single leaf look thing I was talking about seventh is a pic of how I keep them at this moment. The light is a 216w T5 6500K and is my early veg light, but when it has no young veggers under it I'll move the bonsais under it and kill all but one strip, taking advantage of the white spectra of the T5. So everything there is kept alive by a single 56w T5 strip basically. When they aren't under that the bonsais go under 2 x 18w T8 4000K-ish cheapo strips in a little bonsai / cloning bit I knocked together in my bedroom closet LOL they are subjected to much pruning and bending, basically I take maintenance cuts whenever required and just feed them to the worm bin most of the time. I used to do root pruning too when I started out with this style, but i found it is kinda unnecessary, even though all the bonsai guides will tell you to do that. If they get really unruly, I have literally lopped the whole two thirds off the top of plants and they have come back strong. If you need many cuts off one strain, you need to grow them out a bit obviously And yeah, that's a couple of little and one very big aloe vera too, also part of my regime to be used on plants, but that's a whole other thread, so let's not delve into it too deep or we'll go way off topic LOL eighth pic is how that twisted looking Blue Widow cut grows out, in case there was concerns about plant health from cuttings that originate from mothers kept with this kind of shenanigans fed worm castings pretty much exclusively, occasionally I will pinch a liter or two out of some sort of botanical tea like kelp or alfalfa and they will get a treat, but they need very little with so little light hope that helps you guys get an idea of what I'm talking about anyway Be Lucky Pat
  12. Did someone say bonsai?!! LOL I keep a whole bunch of bonsai mothers, as a means to repopulate my room with things I like Yes I agree, they can flower from stress, more often than not this is due to rootbinding and starvation If I let mine get really hungry, they will start springing hairs from everywhere, even on 18/6 lighting. You hit them with some worm castings, they go right back into veg and start throwing the single leaf reveg shit for a couple of sets I have some that have gone two years in a 1.2L pot, really woody lower stems, like a little tree. It's super easy to keep them alright once you get the hang of it. Obviously I will recut them into new mother clones at some point as they age onwards, but they seem to be good for now Yeah the Aussie trees were the biggest tall sativas I had seen until the US thing too, just naturally very big. Also Mao Thai can certainly get ridiculously big too in it's native land, just like a real tree Can snap some pics of those bonsai if anyone has any interest Cool Pat
  13. thanks for the welcome dude @jan.gh
  14. I grow in an organic soil, it has been reused and re-amended many times, no pH-ing or anything, my tap water ranges from about 7.2-7.8 depending on time of year, about 220ppm, mostly calcium In all honesty I feel there are multiple schools of thought on 'organic' growing ie. the kind of organics that comes out of a bottle with pH meters, or the kind where you are building soil and microbiology in a more sustainable fashion. I don't have a dog in this fight, I feel that however you grow, be it synthetic, store bought organic or wildcrafting nutrients caveman style; there is nothing better than growing your own, however you may go about that: I hope not to sound like some sort of rainbow warrior when discussing organics in general LOL but you'll have to excuse me if I get carried away sometimes I agree a large part of organics not in a bottle style is going to be the composting game. Buying it will never compare to your own IME. Worm composting is very easy once you get the hang of it, and virtually work free. You can make static (you don't turn them) piles of outdoor compost that simply require a lot of time to break down, usually at least a year to 18 months. If you used the right woody mix the resulting compost will be highly fungal, and pair very nicely with your highly bacterial worm castings worm castings are something I simply wouldn't grow without. Bought ones will never be as good as your own homemade stuff, but there are some alright brands out there, depending on where you live. The more local to you and fresh that they are, the better basically, if you can get them direct from a worm farm, all the better. Ask them what they are fed on, try and get one that is fed good things like vegetable wastes and rock meals if possible, or at least some of that, as opposed to only horse manure and cardboard for instance bat guano is a good amendment, just don't ask how they harvest it; it ain't a pretty picture for the bats involved is what I'm saying. It's also extremely easy to over-do it kelp is fantastic fish and pretty much everything from the ocean is great too, get a hydrolyzed fish product as opposed to an emulsion when possible alfalfa is dirt cheap an worth a real good look if you aren't already familiar, if it's not certified organic it's probably GMO, best avoid that seed meals are good too for building great soil structure and providing long lasting nutrients; neem seed meal / neem press cake is what I use personally apart from amendments, something I see often being left out of the general discussion is mulching. It is VITAL for real organic cycles to stay happening near the surface of the soil, where virtually all the nutrient feeding power is in cannabis plants. This can't happen continuously in a cycle without mulch unless you are keeping your pots way too wet for the surface to stay that wet I have used biobizz (among several others) at some points as I went too, but basically most of their line can be easily replaced at a far better cost and oftentimes with better performance with buying the raw materials, their algamic is a bit of a joke really at that price, but yes, highly effective if you can get their line figured out right, no arguments there. Doesn't come cheap though so it should work eh There are so many other amendments we could discuss at length, but really it's more about working with the local stuff you have around you IMHO, rather than looking for some magic bullet wonder amendment that has to be harvested and then shipped from some far away land to your door, guano being a classic example I apologize for the rant not aimed at anyone in particular but thought I'd just discuss it based on the thread so far, give you guys my two cents Cool Pat
  15. I think there is a valid debate on the use of iso and whether or not there is a safety issue A large part of the factors that really are worth arguing about are in the purge process IMHO, less so in BHO manufacture because the badness doesn't purge out definitely, I agree that everclear, weingeist, spiritus rektifikowany, whatever you wanna call it depending on where you are in the world is a safer choice HOWEVER the cost of a liter of this where I am in Europe is about a hundred bucks a bottle, mostly tax of course. Compare that with lab grade 2-propanol (ISO) at about 18-20 bucks for a liter(much cheaper if you buy a lot at once); you can see where I'm headed with it. I have never heard of alcohol that can be drunk exceeding the 96% mark, and in fact I reckon it is physically impossible at normal atmospheric pressures, due to the facts of the chemistry of ethyl alcohol and water azeotropes @Cannabissapean... not looking to start an argument or anything, just felt it was worth mentioning In any case I feel that something purged correctly has very little residual in it anyway, and with ISO you don't have the concern of something that will not purge out, like mystery oils in BHO, which you are definitely smoking unless you are using lab grade n-butane for your extractions: few people do is the reality though As far as making good stuff from iso goes, definitely I agree having the iso and all your tools colder than cold is the key. Returning it for winterization after extraction and then refiltering can be done, but is not very effective on iso like it is on ethanol (think you would need colder temps than a home freezer is capable of producing, is what the problem with it is), although if you are in the right coldness range when you do the extraction and you don't over-do the soaking time, then your colour should be amber, like BHO. Do not freeze the actual material prior to extracting it, these now exploded cell walls will simply leach added chlorophyll into your solvent. Consistency that is really hard like BHO can be had with some practice too and careful purge techniques. Vacuum chambers help, but aren't mandatory IME, and I have also found that iso oils improve with age, hardening further once you kinda cure them in a jar for a bit; so you don't have to go mad purging trying to get a perfect shatter type consistency at the purge, at long as you have snap and pull taffy at warm room temp then the hardness comes a little later Here's a bit of iso that was fresh purged in the pic, later became brittle like glass once exposed to the air for a bit. No vac chamber, long and gentle purge. The key to this colour is cold and fast extractions and gentle evaporation and purging All of that is my humble opinion of course, and should not be construed as absolute fact, just my own observation Pat

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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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