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About PHDin420

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  • Birthday 07/19/1968

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    Wading through a swamp on the way to my spot in the Mitten! :)
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    Used to be an EXTREME EXTREME sports fanatic and did everything from skydiving and base jumping racing and drag racing all kinds of vehicle's, to skiing/snowboarding, whitewater rafting, mountain/canyoneering, and mountain biking to name the main ones. Now after years of body abuse and injuries, I mostly do more mellow activities. :) When it comes to anything I get obsessed about, I always go 200%, try to learn as much as I can and know that no matter how much I know, there is always more to learn.

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  1. Most strains these days are F1 hybrids and nowhere near stable. It's no different than trying to cross a Black Lab with a Siberian Huskie, the first generation of puppies might look like Black Labs, might look like Siberian Huskies, might look like a perfect mix and anything in between. What makes the issue even worse is that instead of dealing with two stable breeds as the parents, the parents are actually mutts that probably came from mutts before them. The only way you would get similar phenos is if you get feminized seeds and even then they would only be similar if the seeds were produced from pollen of the same plant. That's is a major difference between regular and feminized seeds and some people don't want feminized seeds because they either want the variations in phenos, they think they are more likely to hermie or whatever other reason someone may have. When I say "most strains" I'm not referring to any Green House or Strain Hunter strains because they start with landrace strains to develop their strains and that's one of the reason I'm here. There are a lot of strains that have come from basically mutts and I'm not at all saying that's bad because some of the best strains are. I've seen a lot of seeds from other breeders/seed banks that have an unbelieveable amount of variation and that's why you should go with a more reputable one, so you have a much better idea of what you are getting, if better consistency is what you are after.
  2. What someone should do that I have never seen before is make a grow journal post about their hydroponic nightmare with pics of all the slime, root rot, algae, stunted growth, hose popping off flood creating, total plant death nightmare!!!
  3. Thanks FIM for typing all of that as I didn't want too. LOL You also talked about reservoir size but didn't say how it and evaporation can also affect ph and that's why bigger is better as well as all the other reasons you mentioned. I've seen wild fluctuations in others setups that used an undersized reservoir and I just thought it was caused by the uptake of nutrients that raised the ph followed by a quick rebound back down as the water evaporated. If your medium has any ingredients that can change the ph as they break down, like coco does, than that can also affect ph. I think you also mentioned to check ph before and after it cycles through the first time and I have seen crazy differences when checked before and after the cycle and then the next day. I never tried to figure out the cause because I knew the reservoir was way to small and the larger one fixed the problem. And I second the soil suggestion.
  4. I talked about organic soil mixes in some of my other posts where I said I would post some mix recipes, so here they are. These mixes are specifically designed to have all the necessary ingredients in the mix to provide all the necessary nutrients, not only for the plant but for the actual soil mix itself to get all the fungi, bacteria and everything else needed for the bio-reactive process to occur in conjunction with the plants roots, which work similar to our stomachs by secreting enzymes and chemicals to help break down the "food". I am listing a couple of mixes, one is a variety that I made and the other is very similar using different ingredients that break down slower. You can mix and use my recipe immediately as the ingredients are more readily available to the plant than the second, which requires(or is recommended) composting before it's use. The second recipe is used by a very well known grower and breeder, T.G.A. Subcool, a member of the High Times Hall of Fame. Both mixes are designed so that all you have to do is add water throughout the entire grow cycle, no matter the length. These mixes have enough ingredients to last long enough that it is highly recommended you compost and reuse it a second time, but the decision to do that can be up to you depending on your ability to compost or you would just rather spend more money on a fresh mix everytime to be absolutely sure you don't have any problems. Although not required, using a low PPM(such as RO), ph adjusted water is always best but there are ingredients in the mix specifically to combat any water problems so it isn't necessary. My recipe; 4.0 cu. ft. of any good quality basic organic potting soil mixad. I personally use the 3.8 cu. ft. Promix bails.6 cups Bone Meal4 cups Blood Meal4 cups kelp meal3 cups Dolomite Lime1 1/2 cups Epsom salt1 small bag Worm Castings1 bag Perlite Then you can add one or all of the following optional ingredients from either group. You can also use any similar product if these are not available in your area; 6 tbsp. Plant Success Granular3 tbsp Soluble Seaweed extract 3 tbsp Rare Earthor my new personal preference;3 tbsp each of Roots Organics Uprising Grow, Foundation and Bloom. Here is T.G.A.'s recipe; 8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings5 lbs steamed bone meal5 lbs Bloom bat guano5 lbs blood meal3 lbs rock phosphate¾ cup Epson salts½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)½ cup azomite (trace elements)2 tbsp powdered humic acid These recipes are as good if not better than anything you can buy and at less than half the price, which is it's main advantage over other mixes. A lot of the ingredients are very fine and it's very important they are mixed very well, so I recommend using a composting drum or renting a cement mixer, which is only around $30 a day to rent to mix all the ingredients in. If you notice, I use perlite to aerate the soil and T.G.A., as well as others use coco. What you use and the amount you use is up to you based on personal preference and how often you want to water. I personally have used both individually and combined and I also add additional perlite for more aeration and frequent waterings. With my mix I can get yields within 85% of the best hydro method I've compared it to. Just water them and there is basically nothing you can do to fail or not have great identical harvests every time no matter the strain. No flushing required and I guarantee some of the best smelling, tasting flowers you have ever grown. If you ask most of the winners of any Cannabis Cup, including T.G.A., their entry was grown organically in a mix similar to these.
  5. You could wait until Dec 21st but as I posted in my last reply, to get the optimum growth you would be better off starting them around Nov. 15th down there in the south, which corresponds to May 15th in the north. If you have some kind of supplemental light, and for this it wouldn't have to be anything more than a fluorescent, you could put them out even sooner by putting them outside and either placing the light over them for a couple of hours before dawn or after dusk until Nov. 15th or pulling them inside where the light is and doing the same.
  6. Are we talking indoor or out here? There are a lot of strains that don't have a lot of odor and others that do so it isn't something I find unusual. I have a large collections of different strains grown, dried and cured the exact same way and some you can smell when you walk into the room and others you can't even smell when you open the jar. I used to think it might have something to do with how I was drying or curing them but now I realize that some just smell a lot and others don't and IMO it's odor isn't related to it's potency.
  7. It doesn't look like any nutrient deficiency I've seen and if it were a ph problem it would mean it's not getting enough nutrients. From the pictures and your original description of it appearing "silvery" would lead me to say it's a pest, most likely thrips. Do you have any fungus gnats? You said the first pics were taken from late in the flowering period. When were the others taken and where were they located on the plant? Are you finding leaves like this all over the plant or only in certain areas? If in certain areas, where?
  8. I'd just add that ph fluctuations are normal with hydro and FIM covered how to minimize them. It is also why you need to check it often or else things can go bad real quick.
  9. After thinking about this thread, I decided to edit it and propose a simple experiment that anyone that wants to test the technique can do. If the theory is correct, what you are saying is that the flowers don't need the fan leaves to grow because the light delivered directly to them, will make them grow, so here is my experiment to prove what I think is the correct answer and I am pretty sure once anyone does it, they will convinced themselves what they think is correct. You can start out in two ways, by either taking an existing plant you have and sort of dividing it in half or starting from a new single stemmed clone, pinch the top so there will only be two and performed the following. At around three weeks into flowering the plants should be showing some nice sized flowers. Now take the plant you either divided or pinched the top to grow into two halves and on one side cut all of the fan leaves off leaving nothing but the flowers and leave the other side alone. I'm so certain of what the results will be that I want to even put things in your favor, so wherever the plant is in the room, I want you to position it so the side you cut the fan leaves off of, is always pointed to and getting more light than the side that you left all the fan leaves on. If you do this experiment, you will know what technique works better. If you do it PLEASE post pics of the plant and it's progress here so everyone can see. I would do it but unfortunately I do not have the capability to at this time because I am preparing for the outdoor season. If you want to read and hear my thoughts on the subject, you can continue to read but IMO if you do the above, you won't need to talk about it anymore unless you want to get into the same discussion with differing opinions that has been going on since people have been growing indoors. The only way to prove which way works better is to do a controlled test like this otherwise it's like asking everyone what the best strain is, you'll get many different answers from many different people. Do a test(preferably many tests) post the results and let people decide for themselves from the results. ORIGINAL POST I've tried just about every technique you can think of an here is my input on the subject. Not saying I'm correct and anyone else is wrong, just stating my opinion based on my experience. The largest surface area on any part of the plant, is on the large fan leaves, therefore the more light they receive, the more the plant will grow. Here is where things can become different when it comes to the difference between indoor and outdoor lighting. In most indoor set up, the light is set up in a stationary position and by its very nature, the amount of lumens decreases with the distance from the light. This is the reason techniques such as SOG & SCROG are the most efficient and when used, the removal of any leaves isn't necessary. If you are using a stationary light and not using one of those methods, the removal of fan leaves may appear to be producing more buds and indeed it is by allowing more light to the lower parts of the plants where those buds are developing but you are sacrificing the higher intensity light at the top and for the top of the plants for the development of buds at lower levels with lower intensity light. What would make you think that you will get more from the lower buds with less light than the ones closer to the light? The newer growers may say newer times better techniques but I have yet to hear the logic behind why removing the leaves with more surface area will create larger flowers using the remaining leaves with much less surface area, except that it allows more light to everything below and I explained how the light decreases with distance so again how can that work? I have never removed any leaves from any plant because I have never seen the logic in it but again, I am not saying I'm right and anyone else it wrong. I do know that the reason a SOG/SCROG setup is more efficient and will outproduce any technique where the plant is grown untrained laterally, without moving and/or adding supplemental side lighting, is because of the lumen loss with distance. I can confirm that I have grown both ways with SOG/SCROG being the best yielding and if you have ever grown a plant taller than a few feet tall under a single stationary light setup, you've noticed that the growth canopy on the top of the plant is never larger than a few feet regardless of the actual plant height and that's because of the same loss of light problem.
  10. And they said Gorilla Glue #4 couldn't be grown outdoors.
  11. Oh it's going to happen and hopefully we here in the US are the first to do it because you know everyone will follow once we do, since we basically dictate the world drug policy anyway. LOL One of the reasons other countries won't legalize before the US is because we will put economic sanctions on you if you don't follow our drug policies. Personally, I'm not a fan of my country's drug policy, especially the now 44 year war on drugs.
  12. One of the best known and top 25 strains of all time came from bag seed, the original OG Kush as well as the soon to be added, Gorilla Glue #4!
  13. Got more pics of more leaves as well as the underside?
  14. Not me. I have that Benjamin Button disease where I was born at age 80 and just get un-wiser as I get older/younger. LOL j/k

About us

Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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