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Hey'all! It's been a while. A long while. But i'm back at it! Finally! So: I've been long debating with friends (i guess we all do) about whether a plant would survive a 24/0 schedule, hence a 24 hours of light and no time for a nap. We all know where this discussion goes: "YES it's possible! NO it's not! It's not natural! But automatics!!" It's an endless cycle of despair, and nobody has a true, definitive answer to the question. Now, i know many people have done this before, and yes, i'm very aware of my economical expendancies, thank you. All i want to do is see it with my own eyes. Will the plant suffer because of a constant 24 hours schedule? Possibly. I want to see that. And if it doesn't, then it'll be just a big plus for me. Will the plant go hermie on me, because of light stress? Who knows! I'm here to learn. So here i am, drinking a cola, dirtying my hands, gluing soundproof panels to the walls. It took me a while, but hey, look at the results! Soundproofing the whole room took me exactly 145 50x50cm panels, by the cost of 4 euros each, hence a grand total of 580 euros. I've also boxed the extractors. Covered the lower one with panels as i didn't want to do occult ads, hehe. The boxes are inner-covered with soundproof panels as well. Noise inside the room, and Noise outside the room I've also decided to freshen my light rack. I'm using a good old shitty 65W Cob lamp, and in late flowering i'm going to add a couple extrashitty ufos, 9W each, just to add some colors to the white, dead spectrum of the COB. Some blurple can't hurt, amirite? For this run, i chose a Northern Lights (Feminized), and the schedule i'm gonna run on her is gonna be a 24/0 in the 2 first weeks of the VEG phase. If the extra light theory works, then that should definitely save me some time. Why did i choose a NL? Well, it's a pretty easy strain to grow, and responds well to techniques and stress. The whole idea of this grow is to be experimental, not professional. Gonna use a 1Gallon (3.8 Lt) pot for this run. Small, compact, practical. Like a chocolate bar. Strain Date Week Phase Light Height L2 L2 Watts PH Nutes Action Action 2 Northern Lights 30/12/20 0 Germination 24/0 110 cm COB 65W 6,5 N/A N/A 31/12/20 0 Germination 24/0 110 cm COB 65W 01/01/21 0 Germination 24/0 110 cm COB 65W 02/01/21 0 Germination 24/0 80cm COB 65W N/A 50ml Water 03/01/21 0 Germination 24/0 80cm COB 65W 04/01/21 0 Germination 24/0 80cm COB 65W 05/01/21 1 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 6,5 12g VEG 100ml Water 06/01/21 1 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 07/01/21 1 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 08/01/21 1 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 100ml Water 09/01/21 1 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 10/01/21 1 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 11/01/21 1 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 12/01/21 2 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 6,5 6G Boost 150ml Water 13/01/21 2 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 14/01/21 2 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 15/01/21 2 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 16/01/21 2 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 250ml Water Lower Defoliage 17/01/21 2 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 18/01/21 2 Vegetative 24/0 60 cm COB 65W 19/01/21 3 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 6,5 12g FLO 500ml water 20/01/21 3 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 21/01/21 3 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 22/01/21 3 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 500ml water 23/01/21 3 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 24/01/21 3 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 25/01/21 3 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 26/01/21 4 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 6,5 6G Boost 750ml water 27/01/21 4 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 28/01/21 4 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 29/01/21 4 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 30/01/21 4 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 750ml water 31/01/21 4 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 01/02/21 4 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 02/02/21 5 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 6,4 1L water 03/02/21 5 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 04/02/21 5 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 05/02/21 5 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 1L water 06/02/21 5 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 07/02/21 5 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 08/02/21 5 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 09/02/21 6 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 6,4 6G Boost 1L water 10/02/21 6 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 11/02/21 6 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 12/02/21 6 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 13/02/21 6 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 1L water 14/02/21 6 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W Minor Defoliage 15/02/21 6 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 16/02/21 7 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 6,3 1L water 17/02/21 7 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 18/02/21 7 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 19/02/21 7 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 20/02/21 7 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 1L water 21/02/21 7 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 22/02/21 7 Flowering 12D12N 45 cm COB 65W 23/02/21 8 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 6,3 6G Boost 1L water 24/02/21 8 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 25/02/21 8 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 26/02/21 8 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 1L water 27/02/21 8 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 28/02/21 8 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 01/03/21 8 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 02/03/21 9 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 6,2 1L water 03/03/21 9 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 04/03/21 9 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 05/03/21 9 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 06/03/21 9 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 1.25L water 07/03/21 9 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 08/03/21 9 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 09/03/21 10 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 6,2 6G Boost 1.5L water 10/03/21 10 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 11/03/21 10 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W Major Defoliage 12/03/21 10 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 2L water 13/03/21 10 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 14/03/21 10 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 15/03/21 10 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 16/03/21 11 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 6,2 3L Water 17/03/21 11 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 18/03/21 11 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 19/03/21 11 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 4L Water 20/03/21 11 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 21/03/21 11 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 22/03/21 11 Flowering 12D12N 40 cm COB + UFOs 83W 23/03/21 HRV Harvest 0/24 24/03/21 DRY Drying 0/24 25/03/21 DRY Drying 0/24 26/03/21 DRY Drying 0/24 27/03/21 DRY Drying 0/24 28/03/21 DRY Drying 0/24 29/03/21 DRY Drying 0/24 30/03/21 DRY Drying 0/24 31/03/21 CURE Jar Curing 15m Air 01/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 15m Air 02/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 15m Air 03/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 15m Air 04/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 15m Air 05/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 15m Air 06/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 15m Air 07/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 10m Air 08/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 10m Air 09/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 10m Air 10/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 10m Air 11/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 10m Air 12/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 10m Air 13/04/21 CURE Jar Curing 10m Air 14/04/21 TEST So this is it, for now. I'll post the next update in a few days, with the lowered rack and the fantastic Green House Seeds fertilizers are pumped in. Until then.. Peace! Oh, and happy new year!

Hello masters.growers and friends. First of all im sorry if my english is not so good.this is my first grow and my first plant ever. And it was literally unplanned. Never have i thought of growing my own cannabis plant. I found some seed in brickweed and as that time i was also watching some videos at youtube how to germinate seed. So i gve it a try and it worked. Up to this day i never knw what kind of strain my plant is. Someone told me it was sativa landrace and is better for me not to grow it. Since it took a long time to flower, its tall and plus i didnt even know whether it is male or female. If it turns out to be male then im just wasting my time. So i better buy some autofeminize/autoflower seed for safety. Thats what he told me.If he could gift me some seeds thn this all would be easy. I can hardly get any brickweeds let alone a good seed. Well my plant is still here and is growing bigger everyday(i think). And i might need some help! Thank you for your time! . Day 5 and day 11. As u can see in day 5 i have no idea what to do. I even gave it blanket. I keep moving it every hour to make sure it get enough sunlight. And in day 11 i transplant my plant to normal pot.

Equipment: Box 60x60x180 cm (0.36m2). Active air output at 100 m3/h. Passive air entry. Blowing air - canal fan at 100 m3/h. Pot - SmartPot 35 liters. Peat pot one litre. Substrate - "Ugro Pure Superior" Water - mineral osmosis 250ppm. Drip watering of my manufacture - tubes 5mm and a tank for 10 liters. Lighting: Collected by me according to my scheme. It includes an aluminum plate with ribs and active cooling - two 120 millimeter coolers (900 rpm), the size of a plate of 12 to 40 centimeters, a thickness of about 2.5 millimeters. Citizen's LED matrix: 3500k (50w); 3000k(50w); 3000k (100w) - all matrix connected to individual drivers from Mean Well - efficiency of about 91-93%. At a distance of 80 centimeters from the plant, the lamp gives about 33,000 lux, the chips are installed 90 degree lenses made of glass. Nutrients: Growth Technology ph down GHE PH UP GHE FloraMicro HW (not SW) GHE FloraGro GHE FloraBloom GHE G.O.Root Plus GHE Bio Bloom GHE Ripen GHE Diamond Nectar GHE Mineral Magic GHE FloraKleen Photo equipment: phopo box with illumination 5500k support tripod camera pentax kx (the second camera) camera pentax kp (main camera) lens smc pentax-DAL f3.5-5.6 18-55mm al ancient lens smc pentax-m f1.7 50mm ancient lens industar 61L/Z f/2.8 50mm + macro rings main lens - pentax HD DA 35mm f/2.8 Maсro Limited polarizing light filter Hoya hd circ Week 1 day/night - 20 /4 Growth - 3 cm pot - 1 L Water (no compote) 5,7 ph - 250 ppm - 23 degrees C. 0.08 L a day day/night temp. - 23.C/23.C 50% humidity distance from lamp to plant - 80 cm no smell Sprouting. Without any locks and other tricks. I take the sieve, I take a non-transparent package of zip-lock, I take two clean cotton discs, wet the discs with clean mineral water, squeeze them to become slightly moist and they do not leak water, put the seed between the discs, all this thing put in an envelope zip-lock and breathe in it with its "carbon" gas, then close the envelope and send to a dry dark place with room temperature 23-24C (in the box For example). Day D Two days of waiting... on the third day of the seed sprouted and showed the spine, it's time to "plant"! In my experience - I make an acceleration of growth, so that I help the plant first of all get rid of the helmet and run on the full processes of photosynthesis (I do not advise you to produce it yourself, if you do not have the experience of "dumping the helmet" because sloppy and inaccurate actions you can harm or worse - to kill the future plant). With the help of two clean "tooth cleaners" carefully remove the helmet from the sprout. Immediately plant it in a peat pot of 1 liter with a "no substrate" substrate, namely "Ugro Pure Superior", which contains 80% pure coconut fiber, 5% perlite, 5% guano bats, 5% endomycosis and 5% biohumus. This substrate contains nutrients that will last for 2 weeks of sprout life, but I'm going to feed the vegetable in the second week of life, and it will be very good to eat! Closer to the third or fourth week, I'll transplant the vegetable into a 30 liter pot "Smart Pot", but for now we are gaining patience and just waiting. Watering the first week i carry out without fertilizer, but well "acidified" water, PH 5.7, PPM 250. Watering, as usual, at the beginning of the light cycle, and the cycle is set to 20/4. DAY 3 DAY 6

Here are some pictures of my current batch of sativas. This is my first time to top and use LST on my plants. If theres any way for me to improve on it, please share your ideas with me. Thanks!

FIM Your Way to Multiple Colas! by Sirius Fourside FIMing: The act of pinching or cutting a young cannabis plant in such a way as to force it to grow 4 main colas instead of one. FIM is used as a word itself, but is actually an acronym for “F**k, I missed!” So what exactly is FIMing? FIMing is an easy way for growers to dramatically increase their yields while also making the plant more manageable for limited spaces. I know that sounds too good to be true, but it’s definitely the case! The problem with the natural growth pattern of the cannabis plant is that it tends to be shaped like a Christmas tree. This is inefficient, and not very good for indoor growing since the main cola will typically receive much more light than the rest of the plant. When you FIM your marijuana plant, it grows 4 main colas instead of one (this is where the extra yields come from). Next, the grower would typically tie those 4 colas down a bit to help force the plant into having a flat canopy. This allows you to lower your lights and makes it so most of the plant is receiving a higher overall amount of light. Whenever you see a picture of a marijuana plant with multiple large buds that are at a similar height, the grower almost certainly used FIMing or another technique called ‘Topping’ to achieve this. At this point, choosing whether to FIM or not might seem like a no-brainer, and I agree that it’s a technique that most growers should employ. However, nothing is absolute, and there could be a few scenarios where FIMing isn’t for you: If you’re doing a tiny microgrow, such as in a computer caseIn tiny stealth microgrows, there isn’t always room for an effective FIM.If you’re doing '12/12 from seed'Your plant will get close to skipping the vegetative stage, and that’s the only time to FIM.Auto-flowering strainsIt's generally a bad idea to top OR FIM auto-flowering marijuana plants, as they don't have enough time to recover before they start flowering, similar to plants grown 12/12 from seedYou don’t like having lots of weed at your disposalI know that sounds like a joke (it was, a bit), but some places have limits to the amount of weed you can possess, and FIMing could actually get you in more trouble in some cases because of all the extra buds you will produce.FIMing vs. Topping First, what is ‘Topping’? Topping is a technique similar to FIMing, wherein you cut a young cannabis plant to create extra colas. However, unlike FIMing, the Topping technique produces 2 colas instead of 4. This article is about FIMing, and does not go in depth about Topping. FIMing can be a superior choice in many cases. Why FIM instead of Top? FIMing is less traumatic to the plantWhen you FIM your cannabis, you only need to pinch the newest growth, which doesn't really stress your plant much. With Topping, totally removing the newest growth is necessary, which is a stressful event for young marijuana plants. FIMing barely slows down plant growth; Topping slows down plant growth considerably for a short period. When you FIM your plant, you will see recovery move at a much higher speed than with Topping. When I FIM one of my plants at the beginning of the day, I can usually already see it adjusting by bedtime. FIMing creates 4 main colas at once, while Topping only creates 2.Double the main colas…no explanation needed!It’s easy to FIM a plant more than once! I wouldn’t necessarily advise this tactic for growers who are new to FIMing, but definitely keep this in mind! You can FIM your cannabis plant more than once, and with some Low Stress Training, you get plants with dozens of colas like the one to the right. How to FIM Your Marijuana PlantsThere are three important factors we need to pay attention to when FIMing your plants for the first time: Pinch vs. Cut – What method do we use to remove/damage the new growth and force new colas? Amount – How much do I pinch/cut? Timing – At what point in the plants development do we FIM?Pinch vs. Cut When you’re FIMing your plant, you have the option of either cutting off a piece of the new growth or pinching it. Both have the potential to work equally well at forcing the plant to create new colas. However, I strongly recommend pinching your plant instead of cutting it since pinching leaves more room for error. Another benefit of pinching is that it leaves the damaged foliage on the plant. This way, your girls at least have a chance to continue using those leaves if they can, whereas with cutting they don’t have the option. Here’s a case: In my last grow, I saw a few weird looking leaves that appeared to be chewed-up. Upon further examination, and judging by where I found them, I determined that they were actually pinched leaves! The plant kept those leaves, and used them to make energy all the way til harvest! Amount When FIMing your plants, the amount you’ll want to pinch is actually quite small. You’re basically pinching the tips of the leaves of the newest growth on the main cola that hasn’t ‘stretched-out’ yet. See the picture further down for a good example. Timing The first pinch or cut in a FIM should happen when your plant has 3-5 nodes (or sets of leaves) in total. Once that initial FIM has been completed and the plant has recovered, a grower can use his/her discretion to determine when to FIM again as it’s mostly based on plant health and desired shape. Just remember to make sure your plant looks healthy and recovered before FIMing again! copied and pasted from - http://www.growweedeasy.com/fim-your-way-to-multiple-colas Topping a Plant 1. Locate the very top of your plant and cut through the main stem just below the newest growth. This should be done after the 3rd or 4th leaf set but can be done at any time after the 3rd leaf set. 2. Shows Plant Top cut off and where the 2 new Branches that will form a "Y" in the main stem will grow from. 3. Shows the newly topped plant after 2 days of growth, notice the Y in the Stem Forming. copied and pasted form - http://www.cannaversity.com/cannaversity/article.php?id=091 Fimming After seeing and hearing many questions about the FIM method I decided to do a tutorial on this method to show exactly how it is done and the results that can be achieved. FIM stands for Fuck I Missed and im not sure how it got that name because its very simple to do. I use this method all the time to help create a wide canopy with many branches and colas. Some people FIM each plant more than once to create even more colas and branches and it works very well for them and has very minimal stress on the plant. I usually FIM plants when they are about 10-12 inches tall (I have done it on both taller and shorter plants) but the earlier the better. As long as the plant has at least 4 true sets of leaves it can be FIMmed successfully. All FIMming should be done at least 2 weeks before turning to 12/12 to maximise the growth potential of the new shoots and maximise the benefits of using this method. #1 Locate the very top of the new growth. #2 With a clean, sterilized scissors, Fold the fan leafs over and cut approximately 80% of the new growth off the plant. #3 This is what it should look like after the cut has been made. #4 View of the Cut section after 2 days growth, showing the 4 new growth shoots (branches) I sometimes dont even use scissors and I just pinch out some of the new growth with my fingers. Heres a few pics of another plant that I pinched with my fingers. This plant has been neglected throughout its short life so far and it has been sitting under a shitty fluro light so it would be doing much better under some decent lighting and better conditions but it gives you an idea of the early progress. You can see the dot where the FIM was done. 4/6/09 Now you can see how many new shoots have started to form and you can get some idea of how many main branches this plant will have This is the difference between FIMming and Topping: copied and pasted from -http://www.marijuanagrowing.eu/tutorials-tips-tricks/the-fimming-tutorial-t36632.html Peace Lams

Hello all, I have some regular super silver haze seeds. You know that ssh is too tall strain, so i want to top them in vegetative stage. However some people say that the sex of a reg plant isn't predetermined and any amount of stress such as topping will make the plant more likely to turn male. Does anyone have any experience with topping regular plant which sex is not determined?

Hey everyone. Im currently running on a student light setup = x2 45w CFL and x2 20w CFL = 130w Cupboard grow Strain: Dinafem Blue Hash My question is, would topping be a bad idea with such little wattage or a good idea in terms of space and getting enough light to the entire plant? i want to try and achieve the dankest buds possible for the setup, and ive read a few forums with people complaining about getting airy buds from topping. If i do top, im only looking to top once around the 4th or 5th node. The plant generally will reach 60-70cm (2feet+-) Many thanks