Cryo iso extract

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This is an empty topic mostly so i though i ll give my experience .

In my last grow me and my friend tried a method we learned about later and it worked marvel.

So after the harvest the small leafs and the detritus we gatherd them put them in paper bags (the ones used in fruit shops ,care not with any plastci or wax cover) , we dried them for 1-2 days then we froze them for 1 day plus isopropyl (1-2 litres){cost 20-25 euros here}, and then we put them in a jar all together  and shake it. 

We then took  a coffe filter ,filterd the mix 2-3 times till it was clear from debris and we let the mix in a pan which we first layed a greaseproof pape

 till the most part of the iso dries out.

After that we placed the pan in the oven in low temp for almost an hour until all bubles burst. We let it cool and then we cleared the material from the paper and in the nonsticky jar it went . 

From around 550-600 of the debris we extracted around 9-10 g of isolator.

This thing is really really storng it comes up to 40-60%THC depnding (dont get fool by the looks)

As always i am open to questions.



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Thanks for sharingy our technique with us, I have seen a few people make iso but i dont think they had the freezer part so might be a good tip to know ;) 


Have a good smoke!

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I had also never heard the use of freezer step in making isolator or BHO, but there is a bit of logic to it.  Freezing helps to break-down the cell walls of the plant material so that the chemicals of the plant can more readily combine with the solvent during heating.

However, I have always heard that Isopropyl alcohol is poisonous, containing additional materials suitable for disinfection of the skin, but absolutely not suitable for ingestion.  I believe that pure Ethanol (Grain Alcohol) would be a better choice for this method.  Ethanol is available in pure form (100%), but be careful; some Ethanol (sold at barbeque supply stores) contains intentionally introduced addatives to make it taste bad so that it won't be used in drinks.  Pharmacies have Ethanol also, but it is usually no better than 70% ethanol / 30% water, and also tastes bad.

I have found 100% pure Ethanol on ebay.  In the USA, 100% Ethanol is available in some states in a form that is intended for mixing drinks; it is called Pure Grain Alcohol (PGA).

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Depending on where you live Grain Alcohol may be available at your local liquor store. Everclear is nearly pure Grain Alcohol 190 proof in some states, watered down to 151 proof in others. The only additive is plain ol' water.  Nothing nasty. Be super careful with this stuff around any ignition source as it burns like crazy!

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I think there is a valid debate on the use of iso and whether or not there is a safety issue

A large part of the factors that really are worth arguing about are in the purge process IMHO, less so in BHO manufacture because the badness doesn't purge out

definitely, I agree that everclear, weingeist, spiritus rektifikowany, whatever you wanna call it depending on where you are in the world is a safer choice HOWEVER the cost of a liter of this where I am in Europe is about a hundred bucks a bottle, mostly tax of course. Compare that with lab grade 2-propanol (ISO) at about 18-20 bucks for a liter(much cheaper if you buy a lot at once); you can see where I'm headed with it. I have never heard of alcohol that can be drunk exceeding the 96% mark, and in fact I reckon it is physically impossible at normal atmospheric pressures, due to the facts of the chemistry of ethyl alcohol and water azeotropes @Cannabissapean... not looking to start an argument or anything, just felt it was worth mentioning

In any case I feel that something purged correctly has very little residual in it anyway, and with ISO you don't have the concern of something that will not purge out, like mystery oils in BHO, which you are definitely smoking unless you are using lab grade n-butane for your extractions: few people do is the reality though

As far as making good stuff from iso goes, definitely I agree having the iso and all your tools colder than cold is the key. Returning it for winterization after extraction and then refiltering can be done, but is not very effective on iso like it is on ethanol (think you would need colder temps than a home freezer is capable of producing, is what the problem with it is), although if you are in the right coldness range when you do the extraction and you don't over-do the soaking time, then your colour should be amber, like BHO. Do not freeze the actual material prior to extracting it, these now exploded cell walls will simply leach added chlorophyll into your solvent. Consistency that is really hard like BHO can be had with some practice too and careful purge techniques. Vacuum chambers help, but aren't mandatory IME, and I have also found that iso oils improve with age, hardening further once you kinda cure them in a jar for a bit; so you don't have to go mad purging trying to get a perfect shatter type consistency at the purge, at long as you have snap and pull taffy at warm room temp then the hardness comes a little later

Here's a bit of iso that was fresh purged in the pic, later became brittle like glass once exposed to the air for a bit. No vac chamber, long and gentle purge. The key to this colour is cold and fast extractions and gentle evaporation and purging

All of that is my humble opinion of course, and should not be construed as absolute fact, just my own observation





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