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Money maker, OGReek'n, Casey Jones on organic hydro soil


g22
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Nice looking Casey Jones there.

 

I agree that you might need to begin forcing flowering.  The cool temperatures here begin too soon after the photoperiod changes, leaving the plant not enough time to fully develop flowers.

 

So now I am curious.  How are you going to force flowering?  Do you have a light-barrier tent to erect over the plant so that you can reduce the light-period each day?  Or will you bring her inside to begin flowering inside a flowering tent?

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I just want to put a plastic on te plastic stick from 22h to 10h in the morning its just a try i like the plant evan if i dont have real goed flower i always like the plant from my 13 years old but i dont do it evry years and you always learn something

 

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Ah, I am glad you decided not to use a plastic bag.

 

Had you not said that, I would have warned you that plastic bags in contact with the leaves of the plant during daylight hours will result in serious leaf burns when the sun hits the bag.  And heat build-up inside the bag will dry-out and kill the rest of the plant.

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The problème of hall this grow is ph of my substrat 7,4to 7,8 after many search i see its very diffuclt to adjust that properly of i need to study that but dont know ho or i need that magic organic ingrédient that i dont know or i only have to go back on a substrat already make from a goed company full of averthing whit the just ph and stop to make it my self whit mix of coco ,grond ,perlite in a % where i dont know the effectif an the effect butt iff i want to réuse more that 1 time my pot mix there is only product to make the soil more alcalines  

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g22,

 

You have done very well despite the fact that your soil is so alkaline.  That speaks very positively for your hard work to create the right conditions for the plants, given that your substrate pH was too high.

For the remainder of this grow, I would recommend continuing to adjust your feeding water to around pH5,8 (like that pH that cannabis enjoys in hydro grows) and continue to monitor the run-off pH.  We can only hope that eventually you will see a little rise in the run-off pH as time passes.

 

Thus far your plants have benefitted somewhat from this transition across the pH-range; watering at ~6,0, the roots see at first a lower pH and can absorb some of the mins&nutes that are available at the lower range while other mins&nutes are locked out.  As the soil acts with the water and raises the pH upwards, the plant is momentarily able to absorb other mins&nutes through the middle pH-range.  As the pH reaches its upper range, then high-pH mins&nutes become available while low-pH mins&nutes become locked out. 

This is not a state of emergency, only a nuisance-problem that requires extra effort and monitoring at virtually every watering, as you already know.

 

Yeah, dialing-in your supersoil mix is also a process of Trial-and-Error until you get it just right.  It just takes time and experience, and keeping notes on what you do so that you can determine what works and what doesn't work.

 

As for any future supersoil mixes, next time you might want to read the labels more closely on the back sides of the bags.  On the back side of the bags of most base soils (Pflanzen-Erde) one can read the tested pH of that bag of soil.  If possible, try to choose a base soil with a pH in the range of 5,8 to 6,2.  

 

Now, if you think that some of the soil-amendments that you have chosen may be responsible for the pH being too high, then you may consider starting with a soil that is very acidic (less than 5,5 pH).  Such soils ARE also available:  Rhodadendron/Azalea soil is very acidic.  (The soil in monoculture pine forests (Tannen-Wälder) is very acidic but, unfortunately, also very poor in minerals and nutrients, thereby requiring some amendments.)

Just be careful with very acidic soils;  they may be also too acidic, requiring them to be mixed with other milder soils to even-out the pH towards your target of 5,8 to 6,2.  Just remember, after mixing your soil, always water it somewhat and allow it to sit for 2 or 3 weeks (stirring ocasionally) before use, so that the hot-spots within the soil-mass can be evened-out.  This also allows the microbes within the soil to become active and produce their natural amendments to the soil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

g22,

 

The plastic covering should certainly help to retain some moisture.

 

Tipp:  You could also improve your lighting environment by using a reflective plastic to keep a lot of your lamp's light-energy inside the tent.  You could replace that clear plastic with a more reflective plastic.  There are 2 relatively inexpensive types of plastic that would accomplish that well. 

 

One is called Viscuine.  It is white on one side and black on the other side.  It is often used in industry or in construction for covering equipment or great piles of wood.  It is often simply discarded after its use, and for our purposes, it is usually still usable (although, tiny holes might require a bit of duct tape to make it light-tight, but I don't think that light-tight is one of your priorities in this set-up).

 

The other material is one of my favorites to use and to recommend.  It is lightweight, easy to use, very reflective on one side, and it is very inexpensive.  It is "Emergency Blankets", also known as "Space Blankets", you know - those extremely thin plastic sheets, gold-colored on one side and mirror-colored on the other side.  If you wrap yourself in one, you will quickly feel your own body-heat, evidence of its radiant-reflectivity.  You can find them brand-new online for about 1-Dollar or 1-Euro via ebay, or you may find them discarded after Life-Saving Operations during natural disasters.  Or, even better, sign yourself up and participate in a local Red Cross Training Program, and you will certainly end-up with 2 or 3 or 4 of them; of course, the training program will not be without cost, but the training is well worth the price, and you will be doing yourself and your community a good deed.

 

Your set-up is beginning to approach the concept behind the professionally designed home grow-tents or grow-boxes.

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P.S.  I like that floor that you are using there in the bottom of the tent.

 

Can you describe what that is?  Is that a Pallet?  Or is that an overturned shelving unit?  Does it hold overspill such that you could run a dripper system?

 

Or if that is a real hydroponics tray, can you tell us what the model number is, and where to find those?

 

Thank you.

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Hy cannabisapean

Sure its a deens bodem 100cm /110cm i put 2foot under (i dont know the right name )so its 100cm above the bottom it for protect the pot from cold i see that in a shop in the past when the laaw give the right of 5 plant even in 300l pot 

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Protection against floor chilling...

Hmmm... you are waaaaaay north than me, or Greenhouse Warming hasn't reached your house yet. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Honey!                                                                              pass me another towel;

 

 

 

 

 

 

this sweating is the pits...

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Thanks its not a co2 generator  its only a  électric heater and a 5 l water bottel whit a air pompe conect to it :rofl:

5l bottel are great you cane perfectli connect a 1,5 l bottel cut in a funnel to it 

 

 

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