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LedCherryBerry's N.L. 24 - (VEG-COB | FLO-Custom QB) (Harvested)

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So, revisiting my old grow diaries (handwritten ones), i realized i, once again, fucked up big time and forgot an extreme important thing: the infamous Cal-Mag.
This is, imo, definitely the reason for the yellow tips on some leaves (which i, both correct and mistaken, thought was a copper def), as well as a supposed phosphorus/magnesium deficiency on initial, lower fan leaves.
Mainly because Cal-Mag actually contains Calcium, Magnesium, Manganese, Boron, Iron, Sulfur, Copper and Zinc, and mainly because i didn't feed it to the plant.
My PH is perfect, the nutrient i gave her respected the limits and the schedule, light is fixed at a decent height so it wasn't light burns, humidity is perfect, wind isn't blowing directly on plants (so it's not wind burn) and i have no pests in the tent.
Meaning, again, it has to be the missing Cal-Mag's fault.

So i bought the Cal-Mag, along with another BioBizz product (Acti-Vera) which is supposed to enhance root growth and, most importantly, nutrient uptake.
Yesterday i fed her with:
- 2.5 GPSL GHSC's Bloom
- 0.5 ML/LT CAL-MAG (BioBizz)
- 0.5 ML/LT Acti-Vera (BioBizz).
Now, the schedule has changed so that i'll feed the Enhancer, then midweek the Cal-Mag, then the week later the Acti-Vera, then mid week the Cal-Mag, and finally the Enhancer once again, and repeat, right until the last 2 weeks before harvest.
By then, i'll stop feeding the girl and begin to flush away all the shit that's been building up down there, so i'll get a product that tastes like the product and NOT like her nutrients.

Meanwhile, i switched the girl into 12/12 on Monday morning, so i managed to give her 19 hours of light before the first night (12 hours).
NL24 has begun stretching, and is now only 28cm tall (from the soil) and 53cm overall including the pot.
This gives me plenty of space to fuck around with (117cm remaining).

Anyway, here's a couple pics!



Lastly, i bought a luxometer. Thanking the internet, i found a somewhat reliable converter from Lux to PPFD which allows you to also input the SPD (spectral power distribution).
So with the meter and the site, i understood three things:
First of all, the COB performs at 65W, and outputs around 35.000 LUX at 30cm (12") in the middle. COB lamp i'm using is 4000K, and the correspondent PPFD is 623 umol/s/m2 (roughly).
Meanwhile, at 45cm (18"), it outputs around 24.500 LUX, which is 436.65 umol/s/m2. So i've been growing at the bare minimum for most of the time before the switch to 12/12.
Second of all, the advertisement is bullshit :) They claimed around 860 umol/s/m2 at 60cm, while the lamp outputs around a quarter of that, at that same height.
Third and last, Blurple lamps should be placed much further away from the COB. Reason being that, while 35K LUX are around 600umol/s/m2 at 4000K, with the blurple it goes crazy: 3105 umol/s/m2!!
Luckily, my blurples suck ass, and emit around 10.000 LUX at 30cm (12"), which correspond to around 887.31 umol/s/m2.
So right now, my COB is placed at 30cm (12") while the Blurples are placed at 40cm, and the numbers *should* be stable.

IF i don't see any burn in the next week, i'll probably lower even more the COB, since i am adding Co2 and i really want to use all the light possible.
So, until next week, as always.. 
Stay safe, peace! 

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Sorry about the delay in posting the update.
This week has been very intense, and i had little time to care writing the diary.

It's day 61, nearing the end of Week 2 flowering (Week 8).
The flowers on NL24 appear behind on schedule, mainly because of the lack of usable light from the shitty COB lamp.
She has stretched to about 1.5x her VEG size, but that's not a concern as i still have plenty of room.

I did, though, spend the last week crafting my own grow lamp.
I bought 10 meters of high intensity horticulture strip lights, 4000K, 160lm/W.
Got myself a driver, spent some time soldering and... Here it is. 
The monster.


Cherry's Quantum Board.
This baby outputs 50.000 LUX at 45cm (18") in the tent. Converted in PPFD, it's roughly 890 umol/s/m2.
It pulls 292.3 Watts from the wall (true, tested watts). 
I also developed a PAR MAP for the lamp, and did it *without* reflection panels.


Par map is intended for a 2x2ft grow area (60x60cm).
For a direct comparison, the 100W Cob (65 true watts) pulls 623 umol/s/m2 at 12" (30cm) in the dead center, and approximately 250-300 umol/s/m2 on the corners.
The only issue the QB lamp has, is that it could be used to cook sausages. 
The aluminium plate is only 4mm thick, and gets insanely hot to the touch.
This caused the tent temperature to rise of about 3 degrees (current temp 27° at canopy).
I'm working towards dissipation units.

So, now that the plant looks behind on schedule, i think i'll have to extend again my flowering period, by about a week or 2.
This said, i never used a lamp this powerful in my life, so i don't really know what to expect. I've introduced the new lamp on Saturday, February 27.
If the plant recovers, i'll keep the schedule as it is. 



I also moved the Co2 bag down below, as you can see. There was no room for it with the new, big lamp up there.

Anyway, i'll see you peeps next weekend. I'll keep the updates in the weekend, as i got more time to actually write them.
Be safe out there. Peace!

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3 hours ago, Hydra said:

Nice light what kind of led?

Samsung SMD 5630.
The strips were 5 meters long, 185 W (37W per meter), 5920 lumens a meter (29600 the roller). Color 4000K 90+ CRI.
Total used is 7.9 meters. 
I'll put it here as a reminder for those who are not expert, just like me:
If you have more than 2.5 meters of strip, you want to connect them at both ends and in parallel. 
This is because of a thingie called Voltage Drop. 
12v ----------------------------------- 11v <- this just an example. If your strip is too long, you risk to not get enough power at the end of the strip, hence you're wasting power.


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On 2/11/2021 at 2:59 PM, LedCherryBerry said:

No idea why the background on this one came out white. 
Weird. But i'll buy it.


This happens when you copy and paste the text, then no way to delete it ...


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On 3/3/2021 at 8:09 PM, gasmeter said:

@LedCherryBerry great job with the new LED lamp it looks well made and good quality :good:

Thanks man!
It definitely is not well made, as i'm still trying to find a way to dissipate heat:
The grow tent's temperature passed from 25 to 32°. But i'm working on a liquid cooling rack for the lamp, so... more updates coming in the next days.



On 3/4/2021 at 4:07 AM, Godess_T said:


This happens when you copy and paste the text, then no way to delete it ...


Gotcha. I usually write the update in a text file and then paste it adding pics when it's ready.. I guess that time the copy-paste system had a stroke.
Rest in Posts.

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Hi mate,

I have a temperature of up to 25 after the light upgrade. I don't use fans.

as I was convinced of the quality of the lighting fixtures.

Peace. And good luck

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12 hours ago, LedCherryBerry said:

Gotcha. I usually write the update in a text file and then paste it adding pics when it's ready.. I guess that time the copy-paste system had a stroke.
Rest in Posts.

I write my posts in a plain text file as well then copy and paste them into the post then upload any images as I tweak the text.

I got caught out a few times in the past where I rewrote the text in a post a couple of times and by the time I clicked Submit Reply I had been logged out by the forum software, sometimes you may get lucky and the content is saved to a cookie and when I log in again the text editor still contains the post text.

So I just started to type out the text in a plain text file for each journal, the good thing about doing this is I have a copy of my journal and I can easily check things like when I last watered and fed the plants etc without having to visit the forum.

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I got good news and bad news.
Good news is, the lamp is doing amazingly, and the plant's loving it. 
Bad news is, the lamp is hot as all hells, so the temperature in the grow tent rose from 25° to 32°-33° (77F to 89F-91F).
I can't raise the extractor's speed as that might damage the carbon filters, so..

I came up with a wild solution.
My lamp acts like a huge CPU. It's a frying hot plate that needs dissipation. It can go passive, or it can go active. 
For it to be active, there are various options. Fans being the first ones, and Liquid coolers being the ultimate achievement in the field.
Since liquid cooling is the most effective one, i chose to go that way. 
The problems arose instantly: a CPU/GPU liquid cooler is, first of all, expensive; second of all it covers an area as big as a CPU, which is just a few centimeters across.
If i wanted to dissipate a 360x420 mm plate, i'd have to buy a shitton of them. Not good.
So i got this idea:


And developed into this:

So that i could install it like this:

Basically, i found some unused aluminum profiles, which were the perfect size (30x1.8 cm against 36cm width), and profiles are already drilled (8mm) at the middle.
Drilled the holes for the support screws, redrilled the fittings sections, and connected it to an aquarium water pump i got for a mere 20 euros. 
The water pump can supply 2200 Lt/hr, or 1 liter every 1.64 seconds.
Considering the size of the radiator, that will suffice to cool the rack fast enough for the water to cool down.
In addition, i added much more output lenght for additional cooling.
This allowed the tent to go back to a medium temperature of [Insert Temp].

Anyway, saturday i performed another defoliation. This one's bushy as hell, and it almost compares to the White Rhino in bushiness. 
This pheno of Northern Lights is still a mystery to me. Leaves are a mix: bottom ones appear to have indica traits, while upper ones grow very sativa looking. 
During the leaf removal, i touched (by mistake) a couple flowers, and the smell they give is.. unusual. It's creamy, sweet. Like smelling vanilla. Way different from the pine/citrus reports out there.
Will definitely be an interesting specimen to fuck around with.
Here's a couple pics of NL24.




4th Defoliation, 2nd Heavy one.

Because the tent's temperature increased, the water consumption of my plant increased alongside. She now drinks 4 full liters in about 3 days.
I'll see how the situation evolves with the new cooling rack installed.
Until next time.. Stay safe out there.


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Bro, he shouldn't be so hot ... you have China? I bought mine, tests are 2 days. temperature +2 degrees from the previous parameters. 

if there are odor problems, then the Northern Lights are the perfect solution for growing, And in your case, until the plants are blooming at all, throw the filter to hell and increase the air flow

my advice to you use the LST technology and all these branches to bend to the sides, you will have just a perfect bush at the end of flowering 


Have a nice day 😊 







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2 hours ago, Godess_T said:


Bro, he shouldn't be so hot ... you have China? I bought mine, tests are 2 days. temperature +2 degrees from the previous parameters. 

if there are odor problems, then the Northern Lights are the perfect solution for growing, And in your case, until the plants are blooming at all, throw the filter to hell and increase the air flow

my advice to you use the LST technology and all these branches to bend to the sides, you will have just a perfect bush at the end of flowering 


Have a nice day 😊 







I didn't buy the lamp: i built it. Bought the pieces and assembled it manually, soldering strips etc. Imagine spending 3 afternoons on 1099 leds.
There are no smell problems, like i said in the beginning of the diary, i have 2 active carbon filters (in and out) and they're pretty new (changed them around february).
NL has stopped stretching, and i have a lot of room for growing (My lamp is sitting at 45cm, giving me an average of 900umol/s).

The thing is: since the lamp is homebuilt, it lacked a dissipation unit because I, being an idiot, didn't think 1099 leds would give off such a heat. The aluminium plate reaches temps of around 80° (176F).
Now that i built my own liquid cooler, i wonder how it'll work. 

One thing that i noticed is that the NL is doing amazingly even at 33° (91.4 F). 
I'm well aware that going above 30° isn't usually recommended, but maybe people are not aware that plants like cannabis don't normally grow indoors.
From Leafly: "Tradition has it that Northern Lights began on an island near Seattle, Washington, where 11 indica sprouts began their climb to glory. The genetics they propagated came from indigenous Afghani landrace strains, cherished for their highly resinous buds, fast flowering, and resilience during growth."
This said, i very much doubt that summer in Afghanistan is colder than 30°, meaning that, theoretically, the plant should have genetics capable of handling even higher temps.
What i would not recommend is growing automatics over 30°, as Ruderalis originates in Siberia/Russia, where summer temps barely reach 30° and going above them could probably cause heavy issues.

Anyway, i don't really use LST in flowering, and it's not like i've got much space in width anyway. NL is 50cm wide, my tent is 60cm wide. 
What i usually do is use LST in VEG up until the first, second week of flowering, and then let them grow upwards, while occasionally cutting some fan leaves to let light penetrate further down.

Now, would you care telling me why you got a chocolate rolled joint and i don't? 🤣
Have a good day too. Peace!

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Little update.

Tested the radiator and it works amazingly.
Temperature of the board dropped to a mere 45° and the room drop is back to 25.5°.
I'll add a couple chunks of ice every morning to the water tank, so i'm sure i'll keep it cool throughout the 12 light hours.

I'll see you next weekend. Peace!

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So, i found a good solution to the heat-dissipation problem.
Instead of building a radiator, i got my own radiator. Changed connections, added some tubes, and voilà!
1.5 x 1.0 x 0.15 mt radiator + 8 meter long tube. As long as water has a big surface where to cool off, the radiator will work in both ways (heating the enviroment and getting water cold).
Now, grow room's temperature is stable at 27.5°, which isn't optimal, but it's good enough (1.5° above maximum preferred, 26°).


Anyway, it is grow day 75, nearing the end of Week 4, flowering. 
Six more weeks to Harvest, and NL24 aka Julia keeps growing. 
I would've never thought Northern Lights to be such a bushy plant.
I had to perform yet another defoliage to make sure there's light penetration. 
Her flowers have started to get thicker, and have begun covering the stem (which is what i want to see: full lenght flower covered colas).
In the middle of the week, though, i spotted a P-K slight excess on some of the leaves. I then decided for a minor flush (8L out of 30L Pot) with a slightly higher PH (6.5-6.6) to prevent root zone acidifying.
Here's a couple pics of NL and her flowers.








Here's the P-K Excess, progression from top to bottom.
And here's NL defoliated (for the 5th time):


I'll catch you guys next weekend.
Until then, stay safe. Peace! 

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Day 33 Flowering, nearing the end of Week 5 (FLO) | Week 11. 
During the week, i've spotted what i feared would happen after a minor flush: a full N-P-K minor Deficiency.
Now, because the GHSC powders stay in the soil for about 2 months, and i don't really want that, i had to figure out a different solution for it.
In the past years, i've been experimenting with an orchard, and the best thing that seems to help out in such moments is a Dirt tea.
Called in many ways, it consists in putting some soil in a bucket, and adding water. After stirring a while, you leave the bucket (water in it) rest.
When you see the water has become a lil bit clearer (with real soil, usually after a couple days), you need to carefully get the water, filter it and give it to your plants.

So i did the same with GHSC powders. 
Got 10g GHSC Veg, and 5g GHSC Flo. Mixed them in a bottle with water, and filtered out the water.
Added some more water to dilute the solution, and fed it at 6.3 PH like any other feeding.
This seems to have stopped the yellowing, spotting and wrinkling on some lower leaves.
I fear i may have to do this a couple more times, but now that i know the problem, it's just experience for the future.

This said, NL is advancing well into late-flowering.
The buds on her branches are starting to fatten up and get thicker. Some branches failed to fully cover themselves in flowers, but that is ok.
After all, NL24 was an experiment and i'm surprised that the girl managed to get here.
I've also decided to post-pone the last major defoliation, leaving NL to recover from the last one approximately a week ago, and leaving some more "solar panels" to finish this phase of flowering.
This will put her last defoliation near the end of week 6.

Anyway, here's a couple pics of the bushy monster that is Julia (NL24).





I'll catch you guys in about a week. 
Until then, stay safe. Peace!

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It's day 41 flowering, nearing the end of week 6 (12 tot so far).
Flowers have been fattening up, so that means NL fully recovered the time lost in the first 2 weeks. 
With this, i might not need to have such a long flowering schedule, as feminized Northern Lights usually take between 7 and 8 weeks (FLO time).
I previously calculated 10 weeks because of such time loss. Anyway, i think i'll harvest it at 9 weeks total, pushing it a lil further shouldn't harm the yields anyway.

Because the last 3 weeks comprehend budding (fattening of flowers) and ripening, i decided to get rid of around 3/4 fan leaves. 
At the end of week 6, nearly 30% of the fan leaves were affected by an NPK deficiency, which i tried to overcome with nutrient boosts, but i guess the girl needs more and more.
Good note for the future. In comparison, the GHSC's White Rhino took less nutrients and showed no deficiency (just a minor PH unbalance issue).

I also added 4x 5V pc fans (79m3/hr each) to the tent, bringing a lot of air to the fattening flowers.
A surplus of air circulation never hurts the plant (unless you brought a goddamn jet engine in there), and helps to fight issues like high humidity, reducing the chances to get fungi or mold.
Here's a couple pics of the girl.






I'll see you guys next week. Until then, stay safe. 

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Little update.

Sorry to announce that i've discovered NL24 went Hermie on me.
I have no idea when this happened, but there's nothing that can be done to prevent further damage, now.
Flowers exhibit already seeds in them. The girl self pollinated.

I've run a checkdown on all the things i've done, and considering Northern Lights to be a strong, resilient plant, i'll go with what the Internet says:
Never, NEVER use "Vision Seeds" seeds. They're bad.
And i had my confirmation. 4 months for a hermie.


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Shit that sucks she was looking nice too ,get some chemical bride seeds I think it's gonna be a winner 

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5 hours ago, Hydra said:

Shit that sucks she was looking nice too ,get some chemical bride seeds I think it's gonna be a winner 

Meh, there's always worse shit that could've happened.
Having a hermie NL gives me a huge supply of fem seeds (with hermie genetic traits) and i can use them to pollinate other girls in the case i were to do crossings, without losing potency/smell (as in the case where you use a male). Hermie seeds are 99.9% female.
Other than that, as far as i've read online, potency, smell and taste are not affected by the seeds in your weed. It's just going to be a pain in the ass to smoke it.

Of course i would've been happy to have a fully fem plant without seeds, but as we say around here: Life's a hen house staircase. Short and full of shit.

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It's the end of week 7.
As i said in the post before this one, NL24 turned out to be carrying Hermaphroditism genes, and decided to happily express them fucking up 4 months of my hard work.
As with every grow the grower never stops learning, i've "studied" the internet, and found a very interesting study on the subject of Hermaphroditic progeny.
In the study, canadian scientists perform a comparison between plants which have been cross-bred and others which have self-pollinated themselves. 
Specifically, they compare seedling's gender and, subsequentially, the real Genetic sequencing that comes between those 2 categories.
In peasant words, they wanted to know the ratio of males:females that come from strains which have been either crossed or went hermaphroditic.

The results came out amazing. 
In the case of cross-breeding (male pollinating a female), plants had different ratios (5:9, 7:5 etc) for male-female seedling population, while for the hermies.. out of 1000 plants, 2 plants came out to be male.
Meaning that hermaphroditic seeds are 99.9% female. The seedlings still carry the hermaphroditic gene, which can be induced by stress (my case) or with chemical substances.
This could, theoretically, very well mean that i could start my own seedbank, thanks to the seeds this Norther Lights will provide.

During week 6, when i first noticed something wrong, i also decided to remove a couple lower buds because they were surely going to become popcorn buds (not gonna make it fully), and seeds were found in those essicated buds as well.
From my observations, i can initially proclaim that the "Hermaphroditic gene" is "recessing", hence disappearing.
The buds are somewhat compact (not as i hoped they would be), but they're NOT filled with seeds. This overall means that NL24 produced a very small population of anthers (what people refer to as bananas), which i still haven't detected myself.

My conclusion is this one. I've got to take into account several things.

- Norther Lights is, usually, a stable genetic. It's one of the big classics. 
- Vision Seeds proved to be one of the worst companies out there. Their customer support is non-existent, meaning the growers myself included can't have any explanation on terrible germinations/horrible end results.
- I may have stressed my plant with:
    - too little light at first
    - too much heat in flowering (31-33° instead of 24-26° during L-On)

My idea is that V.Seeds fucked up the feminization process, selling non-stable seeds to customers and then disappearing into oblivion to avoid any "legal" issues.
I, myself, have fucked up a few things in the grow, so what should've been a reliable, strong plant turned out to be a weak-genetics strong hermaphrodite.

Aside from having to completely clean with Lisoform and other skin-nuke products the entire tent (to remove pollen residues for the next grow), hermaphroditic phenotypes generally lower the quality of the bud (source, the article).
The internet generally disagrees with that, claiming smell/taste remain unaffected, but my idea is that old-school weed with seeds will always be worse than good, dank sensimilla. 
The poor fucks that claim otherwise are just losers who want to fool themselves into believing their mistakes were forgiving, and have a small group of bigger iditos than them that support them, so they don't feel too alone in their idiocy.

But as I stated previously, there are somethings that went good, in all this shit-show:
- I've got a reliable feminized supply of seeds, which i can use for my own crossings in the future.
- I've learned much more on hermies than i could ever think
- The Hermaphroditic gene in my NL is in recession, hence the gene will show less and less for every generation of seedlings due to genetic copying errors.

But enough with the science talk.
Here's a couple pics that'll help you understand better what the flickeryfuckery i'm talking about.

As you can see, there are a few seeds sticking out from the buds. Some buds appear to have been colonized more, some less.

Here's a comparison between the Article's flowers (SX) and my flowers (DX)

Here's what pollen does to your poor buds. Imho, it looks exactly like spermatozoa colonizing the egg.

A general view of the canopy right now.


Some of the buds have begun showing off colors that i wouldn't have expected on Norther Lights.
There's a few purple spots on the buds, and some bud leaves have begun turning red (nothing seen in charts so it's just pigmentation).
Anyway, i'll start flushing this week, with the last feeding in mid week 8 (a reduced amount of GHSC's Enhancer, only 0.5GPWL).
I'll see you guys next week. Until then, stay safe. 

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Sorry for the delay in updating the journal.
It's been a couple of very tiring weeks, and i didn't find the strenght (nor the will) to get my lazy ass up and write it down.
So, i've decided to merge the 2 updates into a single, large one. Get ready.

It is officially day 109, although NL has been chopped down on Day 103 (aka day 55F).
She has been dried up, and i've just finished jarring her up (for a whole month of curing before the first test).
The flowers are, unfortunately, hairy and not as compact as i hoped they'd be, and there's a good bunch of seeds in them.
Definitely not the harvest i hoped for. But again, i've got a use for the seeds (IF i find a way to cool temps down), and the end yield isn't too bad at all.
I did, though, found the culprit for the auto-impollination. 
There was a tiny, 5cm long branch hidden below the main colas, in the middle of the plant, so well hidden you would've needed to check every single cola every day for suspects.
This branch had only seeds and tiny Anthers on it, so my idea is that this lil bastard is the pollinator. Popped the sacks, with around 600m3/hr moving into the tent, it was impossible to avoid impollination.

(On the left, how a flower should look like. On the right, the little impollinator bastard)

During her last days of flowering, NL showed colors like Red and Purple on both her leaves and her flowers.
The first smells i'm getting from the dried up flowers, though, have surprised me.
You can distinctly smell the classic resin smell, pungent and piney.. 
But there's definitely more to it. I can smell notes of citrus, lavander, and some buds even smell like Mint :O
I guess i'll have to wait a month to find out her real taste. 

At harvest, wet weight was 575g. Trimmed down, it was around 485g.
Dried up, they're just a little over 120g.
But anyway, here's a "couple" pictures.













And here it is. 
Julia, the green cannabis transexual, has been finally chopped down.
I'll see you guys in a month for the test, or in September for the ChemBride run.
If you got any questions, feel free to post them below. 

Until then... stay safe. Be at peace with yourselves.
Cheerios! o7

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