Growing With Molasses

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Growing with Molasses

Finishing with a bit of mollasses does increase crystal content
I want to make it abudantly clear that this is copied and pasted from Overgrow from a user named three_little_birds. This is good stuff and even better to know and implement. Without further ado three_little_birds' complete guide to Molasses.

"There are a number of different nutrient and fertilizer companies selling a variety of additives billed as carbohydrate booster products for plants. Usually retailing for tens of dollars per gallon if not tens of dollars per liter, these products usually claim to work as a carbohydrate source for plants. A variety of benefits are supposed to be unlocked by the use of these products, including the relief of plant stresses and increases in the rate of nutrient uptake. On the surface it sounds real good, and while these kinds of products almost always base their claims in enough science to sound good, reality doesn’t always live up to the hype.

The 3LB are pretty well known for our distrust of nutrient companies like Advanced Nutrients who produce large lines of products (usually with large accompanying price tags) claiming to be a series of “magic bullets” - unlocking the keys to growing success for new and experienced growers alike.

One member of the three_little_birds grower’s and breeder’s collective decided to sample one of these products a while back, intending to give the product a fair trial and then report on the results to the community at Cannabis World.

Imagine, if you will, Tweetie bird flying off to the local hydroponics store, purchasing a bottle of the wonder product - “Super Plant Carb!” (not it’s real name) - and then dragging it back to the bird’s nest. With a sense of expectation our lil’ bird opens the lid, hoping to take a peek and a whiff of this new (and expensive) goodie for our wonderful plants. She is greeted with a familiar sweet smell that it takes a moment to place. Then the realization hits her. . .
Molasses! The “Super Plant Carb!” smells just like Blackstrap Molasses. At the thought that she’s just paid something like $15 for a liter of molasses, our Tweetie bird scowls. Surely she tells herself there must be more to this product than just molasses. So she dips a wing into the sweet juice ever so slightly, and brings it up to have a taste.

Much the same way a sneaky Sylvester cat is exposed by a little yellow bird saying - “I thought I saw a puddy tat . . . I did I did see a puddy tat . . . and he’s standing right there!” - our Tweetie bird had discovered the essence of this product. It was indeed nothing more than Blackstrap Molasses, a quick taste had conformed for our Tweetie bird that she had wasted her time and effort lugging home a very expensive bottle of plant food additive. Molasses is something we already use for gardening at the Bird’s Nest. In fact sweeteners like molasses have long been a part of the arsenal of common products used by organic gardeners to bring greater health to their soils and plants.

So please listen to the little yellow bird when she chirps, because our Tweetie bird knows her stuff. The fertilizer companies are like the bumbling Sylvester in many ways, but rather than picturing themselves stuffed with a little bird, they see themselves growing fat with huge profits from the wallets of unsuspecting consumers. Let us assure you it’s not the vision of yellow feathers floating in front of their stuffed mouths that led these executives in their attempt to “pounce” on the plant growing public.

And the repackaging of molasses as plant food or plant additive is not just limited to the companies selling their products in hydroponic stores. Folks shopping at places like Wal-Mart are just as likely to be taken in by this tactic. In this particular case the offending party is Schultz® Garden Safe All Purpose Liquid Plant Food 3-1-5. This is a relatively inexpensive product that seems appealing to a variety of organic gardeners. Here’s Shultz own description of their product.
“Garden Safe Liquid Plant Foods are made from plants in a patented technology that provides plants with essential nutrients for beautiful flowers and foliage and no offensive smell. Plus they improve soils by enhancing natural microbial activity. Great for all vegetables, herbs, flowers, trees, shrubs and houseplants including roses, tomatoes, fruits, and lawns. Derived from completely natural ingredients, Garden Safe All Purpose Liquid Plant Food feeds plants and invigorates soil microbial activity. Made from sugar beet roots! No offensive manure or fish odors.”

That sure sounds good, and the three_little_birds will even go as far as to say we agree 100% with all the claims made in that little blurb of ad copy. But here’s the problem, Shultz isn’t exactly telling the public that the bottle of “fertilizer” they are buying is nothing more than a waste product derived from the production of sugar. In fact, Schultz® Garden Safe 3-1-5 Liquid Plant Food is really and truly nothing more than a form molasses derived from sugar beet processing that is usually used as an animal feed sweetener. If you don’t believe a band of birds, go ahead and look for yourself at the fine print on a Garden Safe bottle where it says - “Contains 3.0% Water Soluble Nitrogen, 1.0% Available Phosphate, 5.0% Soluble Potash - derived from molasses.”

The only problem we see, is that animal feed additives shouldn’t be retailing for $7.95 a quart, and that’s the price Shultz is charging for it’s Garden Safe product. While we don’t find that quite as offensive as Advanced Nutrients selling their “CarboLoad” product for $14.00 a liter, we still know that it’s terribly overpriced for sugar processing wastes. So, just as our band of birds gave the scoop on poop in our Guano Guide, we’re now about to give folks the sweet truth about molasses.
Is The Story Behind This Sweet Sticky Garden Goodness?

Molasses is a syrupy, thick juice created by the processing of either sugar beets or the sugar cane plant. Depending on the definition used, Sweet Sorghum also qualifies as a molasses, although technically it’s a thickened syrup more akin to Maple Syrup than to molasses. The grade and type of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane or beet and the method of extraction. The different molasses’ have names like: first molasses, second molasses, unsulphured molasses, sulphured molasses, and blackstrap molasses. For gardeners the sweet syrup can work as a carbohydrate source to feed and stimulate microorganisms. And, because molasses (average NPK 1-0-5) contains potash, sulfur, and many trace minerals, it can serve as a nutritious soil amendment. Molasses is also an excellent chelating agent.

Several grades and types of molasses are produced by sugar cane processing. First the plants are harvested and stripped of their leaves, and then the sugar cane is usually crushed or mashed to extract it’s sugary juice. Sugar manufacturing begins by boiling cane juice until it reaches the proper consistency, it is then processed to extract sugar. This first boiling and processing produces what is called first molasses, this has the highest sugar content of the molasses because relatively little sugar has been extracted from the juice. Green (unripe) sugar cane that has been treated with sulphur fumes during sugar extraction produces sulphured molasses. The juice of sun-ripened cane which has been clarified and concentrated produces unsulphured molasses. Another boiling and sugar extraction produces second molasses which has a slight bitter tinge to its taste.
Further rounds of processing and boiling yield dark colored blackstrap molasses, which is the most nutritionally valuable of the various types of molasses. It is commonly used as a sweetner in the manufacture of cattle and other animal feeds, and is even sold as a human health supplement. Any kind of molasses will work to provide benefit for soil and growing plants, but blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the greatest concentration of sulfur, iron and micronutrients from the original cane material. Dry molasses is something different still. It’s not exactly just dried molasses either, it’s molasses sprayed on grain residue which acts as a “carrier”.

Molasses production is a bit different when it comes to the sugar beet. You might say “bird’s know beets” because one of our flock grew up near Canada’s “sugar beet capitol” in Alberta. Their family worked side by side with migrant workers tending the beet fields. The work consisted of weeding and thinning by hand, culling the thinner and weaker plants to leave behind the best beets. After the growing season and several hard frosts - which increase the sugar content - the beets are harvested by machines, piled on trucks and delivered to their destination.

At harvest time, a huge pile of beets will begin to build up outside of the sugar factory that will eventually dwarf the factory itself in size. Gradually throughout the winter the pile will diminish as the whole beets are ground into a mash and then cooked. The cooking serves to reduce and clarify the beet mash, releasing huge columns of stinky (but harmless) beet steam into the air. Sometimes, if the air is cold enough, the steam will fall to the ground around the factory as snow!

As we’ve already learned, in the of sugar cane the consecutive rounds of sugar manufacturing produce first molasses and second molasses. With the humble sugar beet, the intermediate syrups get names like high green and low green, it’s only the syrup left after the final stage of sugar extraction that is called molasses. After final processing, the leftover sugar beet mash is dried then combined with the thick black colored molasses to serve as fodder for cattle. Sugar beet molasses is also used to sweeten feed for horses, sheep, chickens, etc.

Sugar beet molasses is only considered useful as an animal feed additive because it has fairly high concentrations of many salts including calcium, potassium, oxalate, and chloride. Despite the fact that it’s not suitable for human consumption and some consider it to be an industrial waste or industrial by-product, molasses produced from sugar beets makes a wonderful plant fertilizer. While humans may reject beet molasses due to the various “extras” the sugar beet brings to the table, to our plant’s it’s a different story. Sugar beet molasses is usually fairly chemical free as well, at least in our experience. Although farmers generally fertilize their fields in the spring using the various arrays of available fertilizers, weed chemicals (herbicides) are not used for this crop due to the beet plant’s relatively delicate nature.

There is at least one other type of “molasses” we are aware of, and that would be sorghum molasses. It’s made from a plant known as sweet sorghum or sorghum cane in treatments somewhat similar to sugar beets and/or sugar cane processing. If our understanding is correct, sorghum molasses is more correctly called a thickened syrup rather than a by-product of sugar production. So in our eyes sorghum molasses is probably more like Maple Syrup than a true molasses.

In the distant past sorghum syrup was a common locally produced sweetener in many areas, but today it is fairly rare speciality product that could get fairly pricey compared to Molasses. Because sorghum molasses is the final product of sweet sorghum processing, and blackstrap and sugar beet molasses are simply waste by-products of sugar manufacturing, it’s pretty easy to understand the difference in expense between the products. The word from the birds is - there isn’t any apparent advantage to justify the extra expense of using sorghum molasses as a substitute for blackstrap or sugar beet molasses in the garden. So if you find sorghum molasses, instead of using it in your garden, you’ll probably want to use it as an alternate sweetener on some biscuits.

That’s a quick bird’s eye look at the differences between the various types and grades of molasses and how they are produced. Now it’s time to get a peek at the why’s and how’s of using molasses in gardening.

Why Molasses?

The reason nutrient manufacturer’s have “discovered” molasses is the simple fact that it’s a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms. “Carbohydrate” is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving “micro-herd” to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - “Feed the soil not the plant.”

Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there would be lot’s of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though, the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is it’s trace minerals.

In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants, and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those “beneficial beasties” to survive and thrive. That’s one of the secrets we’ve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants. This is especially important for the soil “micro-herd” of critters who depend on tiny amounts of those trace minerals as catalysts to make the enzymes that create biochemical transformations. That last sentence was our fancy way of saying - it’s actually the critters in “live soil” that break down organic fertilizers and “feed” it to our plants.

One final benefit molasses can provide to your garden is it’s ability to work as a chelating agent. That’s a scientific way of saying that molasses is one of those “magical” substances that can convert some chemical nutrients into a form that’s easily available for critters and plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil. Rather than spend a lot of time and effort explaining the relationships between chelates and micronutrients, we are going to quote one of our favorite sources for explaining soil for scientific laymen.
“Micronutrients occur, in cells as well as in soil, as part of large, complex organic molecules in chelated form. The word chelate (pronounced “KEE-late”) comes from the Greek word for “claw,” which indicates how a single nutrient ion is held in the center of the larger molecule. The finely balanced interactions between micronutrients are complex and not fully understood. We do know that balance is crucial; any micronutrient, when present in excessive amounts, will become a poison, and certain poisonous elements, such as chlorine are also essential micronutrients.
For this reason natural, organic sources of micronutrients are the best means of supplying them to the soil; they are present in balanced quantities and not liable to be over applied through error or ignorance. When used in naturally chelated form, excess micronutrients will be locked up and prevented from disrupting soil balance.”
Excerpted from “The Soul of Soil”
by Grace Gershuny and Joe Smillie

That’s not advertising hype either, no product being sold there. That’s just the words of a pair of authors who have spent their lives studying, building, and nurturing soils.
Molasses’ ability to act as a chelate explains it’s presence in organic stimulant products like Earth Juice Catalyst. Chelates are known for their ability to unlock the potential of fertilizers, and some smart biological farmers we know are using chelating agents (like Humic Acid) to allow them to make dramatic cuts in normal levels of fertilizer application.

One way to observe this reaction at work would be to mix up a solution of one part molasses to nine parts water and then soak an object which is coated with iron rust (like a simple nail for instance) in that solution for two weeks. The chelating action of the molasses will remove the mineral elements of the rust and hold them in that “claw shaped” molecule that Grace and Joe just described.
As we’ve commented on elsewhere, it’s not always possible to find good information about the fertilizer benefits of some products that aren’t necessarily produced as plant food. But we’ve also found that by taking a careful look at nutritional information provided for products like molasses that can be consumed by humans, we can get a pretty decent look at the nutrition we can expect a plant to get as well.

There are many brand’s of molasses available, so please do not look at our use of a particular brand as an endorsement, our choice of Brer Rabbit molasses as an example is simply due to our familiarity with the product, one of our Grandmother’s preferred this brand.
Brer Rabbit Blackstrap Molasses
Nutritional Information and Nutrition Facts: Serving Size: 1Tbsp. (21g). Servings per Container: About 24. Amount Per Serving: Calories - 60;
Percentage Daily Values; Fat - 0g, 0%; Sodium - 65mg. 3%; Potassium - 800 mg. 23%; Total Carbohydrates - 13g, 4%; Sugars - 12g, Protein - 1g, Calcium - 2%; Iron 10%; Magnesium 15%; Not a significant source of calories from fat, sat. fat, cholesterol, fiber, Vitamin A, and Vitamin C."

How’s of Molasses

Undoubtedly some folks are to the point where they are ready for our flock to “cut to the chase.” All the background about molasses making and the various kinds of molasses is good, and knowing how molasses works as a fertilizer is great too, but by now many of you may be thinking - isn’t it about time to learn how to actually use this wonder product?! So this section of the “Molasses Manual” is for our birdie buds who are ready, waiting, and wanting to get going with bringing the sticky goodness of molasses into their garden.

Molasses is a fairly versatile product, it can serve as a plant food as well as an additive to improve a fertilizer mix or tea. Dry molasses can be used as an ingredient in a fertilizer mix, and liquid molasses can be used alone or as a component in both sprays and soil drenches. Your personal preferences and growing style will help to decide how to best use this natural sweetener for it’s greatest effect in your garden.

We will try and address the use of dry molasses first, although we will openly admit this is an area where we have little actual experience with gardening use. We’ve certainly mixed dry molasses into animal feed before, so we’re not totally unfamiliar with it’s use. Folks may remember from our earlier description of the various kinds of molasses that dry molasses is actually a ground grain waste “carrier” which has been coated with molasses. This gives dry molasses a semi-granular texture that can be mixed into a feed mix (for animals) or a soil mix (for our favorite herbs). Dry molasses has a consistency that was described by one bird as similar to mouse droppings or rat turds, (folks had to know we’d fit a manure reference in here somehow).

The best use we can envision for dry molasses in the herb garden is to include it in some sort of modified “super-soil” recipe, like Vic High originally popularized for the cannabis community. As we admitted, the use of dry molasses in soil mixes isn’t something we have personal experience with, at least not yet. We are planning some experiments to see how a bit of dry molasses will work in a soil mix. We believe that moderate use should help stimulate micro-organisms and also help in chelating micronutrients and holding them available for our herbs. The plan is to begin testing with one cup of dried molasses added per 10 gallons of soil mix and then let our observations guide the efforts from there.

Another option for molasses use in the garden is it’s use alone as a fertilizer. The Schultz Garden Safe Liquid Plant Food is a perfect example of the direct application of molasses as a plant food. Garden Safe products are available from a variety of sources, including Wal-Mart. Although we consider them overpriced for a sugar beet by-product, Garden Safe products are fairly cost effective, especially compared to fertilizers obtained from a hydroponics or garden store, and they can serve as a good introduction to molasses for the urban herb gardener.

Here are the basic instructions a gardener would find on the side of a bottle of this sugar beet by-product - Mix Garden Safe Liquid All Purpose Plant Food in water. Water plants thoroughly with solution once every 7-14 days in spring and summer, every 14-30 days in fall and winter. Indoors, use 1/2 teaspoon per quart (1 teaspoon per gallon); outdoors, 1 teaspoon per quart (4 teaspoons per gallon). 32 fluid ounces (946ml). Contains 3.0% Water Soluble Nitrogen, 1.0% Available Phosphate, 5.0% Soluble Potash derived from molasses.

In our own experience with Garden Safe Liquid fertilizers, we’ve used a pretty close equivalent to the outdoor rate on indoor herbs with some good success. Our best application rate for Garden Safe 3-1-5 ended up being around 1 Tablespoon per gallon ( 1 Tablespoon = 3 teaspoons). Used alone it’s really not a favorite for continuos use, since we don’t see Garden Safe 3-1-5 as a balanced fertilizer. It doesn’t have enough phosphorous to sustain good root growth and flower formation in the long term. It’s best use would probably be in an outdoor soil grow where there are potential pest issues. Animal by-products like blood meal and bone meal are notorious for attracting varmints, so Garden Safe sugar beet molasses fertilizers could provide an excellent “plant based” source of Nitrogen and Potassium for a soil that’s already been heavily amended with a good slow release source of phosphorous, our choice would be soft rock phosphate.

Blackstrap molasses could also be used in a similar fashion, as a stand alone liquid fertilizer for the biological farmer who needs to avoid potential varmint problems caused by animal based products. But, we really believe there is a better overall use for molasses in the organic farmer’s arsenal of fertilizers. Our suggestion for the best available use, would be to make use of the various molasses products as a part making organic teas for watering and foliar feeding.
Since many of the folks reading this are familiar with our Guano Guide, it will come as no surprise to our audience that molasses is a product we find very useful as an ingredient in Guano and Manure teas. Most bat and seabird guanos are fairly close to being complete fertilizers, with the main exception being that they are usually short in Potassium. Molasses is turns out is a great source of that necessary Potassium. As we learned earlier, molasses also acts as a chelating agent and will help to make micronutrients in the Guano more easily available for our favorite herbs.

A good example of a guano tea recipe at the Bird’s Nest is really as simple as the following:
1 Gallon of water
1 TBSP of guano (for a flowering mix we’d use Jamaican or Indonesian Bat Guano - for a more general use fertilizer we would choose Peruvian Seabird Guano.)
1 tsp blackstrap or sugar beet molasses
We mix the ingredients directly into the water and allow the tea mix to brew for 24 hours. It’s best to use an aquarium pump to aerate the tea, but an occasional shaking can suffice if necessary and still produce a quality tea. We will give you one hint from hard personal experience, make sure if you use the shake method that you hold the lid on securely, nobody appreciate having a crap milkshake spread over the room.
Some folks prefer to use a lady’s nylon or stocking to hold the guano and keep it from making things messy, but we figure the organic matter the manure can contribute to the soil is a good thing. Using this method we feel like we are getting the benefits of a manure tea and a guano top-dressing all together in the same application. If you prefer to use the stocking method, feel free to feed the”tea bag”leftovers to your worm or compost bin, even after a good brewing there’s lots of organic goodness left in that crap!

We also use molasses to sweeten and enrich Alfalfa meal teas. Our standard recipe for this use is:
4 gallons of water
1 cup of fine ground alfalfa meal
1 TBSP blackstrap or sugar beet molasses
After a 24 hour brew, this 100% plant-based fertilizer is ready for application. Alfalfa is a great organic plant food, with many benefits above and beyond just the N–P-K it can contribute to a soil mix or tea. We do plan to cover Alfalfa and it’s many uses in greater detail soon in yet another thread. We prefer to mix our alfalfa meal directly into the tea, but many gardeners use the stocking”tea bag”method with great effectiveness, both work well, it’s really just a matter of personal preference.
The alfalfa tea recipe we described can be used as a soil drench, and also as a foliar feed. And foliar feeding is the final use of molasses we’d like to detail. Foliar feeding, for the unfamiliar, is simply the art of using fine mist sprays as a way to get nutrients directly to the plant through the minute pores a plant”breathes”through. It is by far the quickest and most effective way to correct nutrient deficiencies, and can be an important part of any gardener’s toolbox.
Molasses is a great ingredient in foliar feeding recipes because of it’s ability to chelate nutrients and bring them to the “table” in a form that can be directly absorbed and used by the plant. This really improves the effectiveness of foliar feeds when using them as a plant tonic. In fact it improves them enough that we usually can dilute our teas or mix them more “lean” - with less fertilizer - than we might use without the added molasses.

Of course it is possible to use molasses as a foliar feed alone, without any added guano or alfalfa. It’s primary use would be to treat plants who are deficient in Potassium, although molasses also provides significant boosts in other essential minerals such as Sulfur, Iron and Magnesium. Organic farming guides suggest application rates of between one pint and one quart per acre depending on the target plant. For growing a fast growing annual plant like cannabis, we’d suggest a recipe of 1 teaspoon molasses per gallon of water.
In all honesty, we’d probably suggest a foliar feeding with kelp concentrate as a better solution for an apparent Potassium shortage. Kelp is one of our favorite foliar feeds because it is a complete source of micronutrients in addition to being a great source of Potassium. Kelp has a variety of other characteristics that we love, and we plan that it will be the topic of it’s own detailed thread at a future date. But, for growers that cannot find kelp, or who might have problems with the potential odors a kelp foliar feeding can create, molasses can provide an excellent alternative treatment for Potassium deficient plants at an affordable price.

That looks at most of the beneficial uses of Molasses for the modern organic or biological farmer. Just when you think that’s all there could be from our beaks on the topic of molasses, that molasses and it’s sweet sticky goodness surely have been covered in their entirety, the birds chirp in to say, there is one more specialized use for molasses in the garden. Magical molasses can also help in the control of Fire Ants, and perhaps some other garden pests.
Molasses For Organic Pest Control

One final benefit of molasses is it’s ability to be used in the control of a couple of common pests encountered in gardening. The most commonly known use of molasses is it’s ability to help control Fire Ants, but we’ve also found an internet reference to the ability of molasses to control white cabbage moths in the UK, so molasses could be an effective pest deterrent in more ways that we are aware.

As we said before, there are several references we’ve run across refering to the ability of molasses to control Fire Ants. Since we’re not intimately familiar with this particular use of molasses, and rather than simply re-write and re-word another’s work, we thought we’d defer to the experts. So for this section of the current version of the Molasses Manual, we will simply post a reference article we found that covers topic in better detail than we currently can ourselves.
Molasses Makes Fire Ants Move Out
By Pat Ploegsma, reprinted from Native Plant Society of Texas News
Summer 1999

Have you ever started planting in your raised beds and found fire ant highrises? Are you tired of being covered with welts after gardening? Put down that blowtorch and check out these excellent organic and non-toxic solutions.

Malcolm Beck1, organic farmer extraordinaire and owner of Garden-Ville Inc., did some experiments that showed that molasses is a good addition to organic fertilizer (more on fertilizer in the next issue). When using molasses in the fertilizer spray for his fruit trees he noticed that the fire ants moved out from under the trees. “I got an opportunity to see if molasses really moved fire ants. In my vineyard, I had a 500 foot row of root stock vines cut back to a stump that needed grafting. The fire ants had made themselves at home along that row. The mounds averaged three feet apart. There was no way a person could work there without being eaten alive! I dissolved 4 tablespoons of molasses in each gallon of water and sprayed along the drip pipe. By the next day the fire ants had moved four feet in each direction. We were able to graft the vines without a single ant bothering us.”
This gave him the idea for developing an organic fire ant killer that is 30% orange oil and 70% liquid compost made from manure and molasses. The orange oil softens and dissolves the ant’s exoskeleton, making them susceptible to attack by the microbes in the compost, while the molasses feeds the microbes and also smothers the ants. After the insects are dead, everything becomes energy-rich soil conditioner and will not harm any plant it touches. It can be used on any insect including mosquitoes and their larvae.

Break a small hole in the crust in the center of the mound then quickly!!! pour the solution into the hole to flood the mound and then drench the ants on top. Large mounds may need a second application. Available at Garden-Ville Square in Stafford, it has a pleasant lemonade smell.
According to Mark Bowen2, local landscaper and Houston habitat gardening expert, fire ants thrive on disturbed land and sunny grassy areas. “Organic matter provides a good habitat for fire ant predators such as beneficial nematodes, fungi, etc. Other conditions favoring fire ant predators include shading the ground with plantings, good soil construction practices and use of plants taller than turfgrasses.” He recommends pouring boiling soapy water over shallow mounds or using AscendTM. “Ascend is a fire ant bait which contains a fungal by-product called avermectin and a corn and soybean-based grit bait to attract fire ants. Ascend works slowly enough to get the queen or queens and it controls ants by sterilizing and/or killing them outright.”
Malcolm Beck also did some experiments with Diatomaceous Earth - DE - (skeletal remains of algae which is ground into an abrasive dust) which confirmed that DE also kills fire ants. He mixes 4 oz. of DE into the top of the mound with lethal results. According to Beck, DE only works during dry weather on dry ant mounds. Pet food kept outdoors will stay ant free if placed on top of a tray with several inches of DE
1Beck, Malcolm. The Garden-Ville Method: Lessons in Nature. Third Edition. San Antonio, TX: Garden-Ville, Inc., 1998.
2Bowen, Mark, with Mary Bowen. Habitat Gardening for Houston and Southeast Texas. Houston, TX: River Bend Publishing Company, 1998.

As we had also mentioned earlier, while researching the uses of molasses in gardening, we also came across a reference to it’s use in the control of white cabbage moths. Here’s what we found on that particular topic.
“I came across this home remedy from the UK for white cabbage moths.
Mix a tablespoon of molasses in 1 litre of warm water and let cool..
spray every week or every 2 weeks as required for white cabbage
moth..they hate it..and I think
it would be good soil conditioner as well if any drops on your soil..
It works for me...but gotta do it before white butterfly lays
eggs...otherwise you might have to use the 2 finger method and squash
grubs for your garden birds..

So there you have it, not necessarily straight from our mouths, but simply one more potential use we’ve discovered for molasses, with at least one testimonial for it’s effectiveness. As we said before, the use of molasses as an foliar spray, in addition to it’s potential use as a pest deterrent, would also serve to provide some essential nutrients directly to our plants, and would especially serve as an effective boost of Potassium for plants diagnosed with a deficiency in K. Healthy plants are more resistant to the threat of pests or disease, so molasses really is a multi-purpose organic pest deterrent.

I did not Write this or research this and take no credit for the information supplied.

Thought it was really interesting read and wanted to share it with you.

If anyone has used molasses please share you expirience with us.

All coments and additional information will be of great help

Peace to the highest


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Hey Rome

Can you supply the info on how much honey you use.

When you start to use it.

Different types of honey vary greatly, which type do you advise using.

I can change the name of the post to "Molasses , Honey and other Carbs used in growing"

Any other information and techniques would be of great help, your plants always look in tip top shape.

Take care

Peace to the highest


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Honey : "Manuka Honey" is great for soilmix/coco grow -The tea tree is known to be antibacterial and antifungal, and it has been used for decades as a source of things like mouth washes and disinfectants. Manuka honey is thought to harness the properties of the tea tree, combining them with the already naturally antibacterial properties of honey.

Blackstrap molasses unsulphured:- Molasses made from young sugar cane is called sulphured molasses because of the sulfur dioxide that is added to keep the raw cane fresh until it is processed and to preserve the molasses byproducts produced from it-NOT GOOD!.

Unsulphured molasses is made from matured cane plants that have been allowed to ripen naturally in the field-GOOD!.

Start slowly 1X teaspoon =5L water and watch :pioneersmoke: . Do test on one plant with Manuka Honey and let us know.

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they got the overgrow archived in a wiki here http://growwiki.theg...title=Main_Page

I read that article a couple years back and have been a regular user of molasses ever since. I use it in every phase of grow. mostly to chelate other things I put in my feeds. I use it on the heavy side with no issue 2-4 TBS to a gallon...Ive been using it so long I've forgotten how my strains behave without it but it definately dosent hurt them!

that plant has been on a molassas, urine and good soil diet since she rooted a month ago


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looking good brother. :)

Thanks for the link I will re post the link so other people can benefit from it!



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Hey oldmarine just checked out Bio-wish hydroponic, This product although is organic and promotes the grow of beneficial bacteria is intended for large scale hydroponics.

The smallest size available is the 8 x 10 teabag size each teabag is a daily dose and "must" be used in 24 hours in a volume of 1000 - 9000 liters of water.

This thread relates to the use of molasses as a carb suppliment other carb suppliments would be pertinent such as honey,Glucose,xylose,ribose, maltose & galactose and products such as "Budcandy" which contains some of these carbs.

Biowish is a very interesting product but unless it is used for large scale hydroponic cannabis grows is not really a viable option for the hobby grower.

There other biocatalysts are available such as Canazyme , ana-zyme & hesi Powerzyme which although may not be organic have a longer shelf life and is designed to be used in hobby sized and small commercial grows.

Peace bro


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little enzyme trick: buy some barley malt or make your own. LOADED with enzymes

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Lamsbread, Bio Wish comes in a powder form and can be used at the rate of one gram per 25 gallons. It is a sugar based "Bokashi" or IMO type of organic fertilizer used in Asia for forty centuries..

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Went to the website and didn't see that, but no ones perfect. I am always happy to admit if i am wrong.

Here is the data I refered to. If this is different to your data sheet you found, could you please post it or let me have the link.

I wouldn't want to be in the dark if it is usable for small hydro set up.

Is this even the same product or manufacturer, i apologise in advance if i have made a mistake and have been looking in the wrong place at the wrong product and wrong information.

Here is a link to the product label pdf


Very interesting video, it is great and exactly what we need :) thank you for posting it

Biowish info i found (the site had a consumer section , but no biowish hydroponic in that section . Biowish was only in the agri business section)


Available sizes:

  • Box of Filter Bags
  • 8 x 10g
  • 75 x 10g

  • Bulk Powder
  • 100g
  • 1kg
  • 5kg


Store in cool, dry location out of direct sunlight. Once opened, keep dry in an airtight container to prevent activation.

Once in solution, apply or dose mixture within 24 hours.


Guaranteed Analysis

Total Nitrogen (N).............................3.0% Derived from Soybean Meal,

0.05% Ammoniacal Nitrogen Protein Hydrolysate, Dicalcium Phosphate

0.5% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen Also contains Non-Plant Food Ingredients

2.45% Water Insoluble Nitrogen 6.0%.........Humic acids from decomposed plant residues

Available Phosphate (P2O5)..............4.0% 1%............Dextrose


Crop injury, ineffectiveness, or other unintended consequences may result from, but are not limited to, management

practices and climatic conditions. All such risks shall be assumed by Buyer and User.

Peace bro


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Lamsbread, Crop King in Ohio has 3.5 oz packets of Bio Wish I think in the $15 range that would be enough to do 2,400 gal. I find it interesting the bokashi is wheat based, the Korean IMO is rice based, and the Bio Wish is soy based. One thing they all have in common is they feed the microbes with brown sugar, or molasses.

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Oh man.. :D Thanks alot for sharing this bro, awesome info!

Sure sounds like it could make some awesome tastes in the endproduct, + the resin production :)

But like you said lams, info about using it in the best way would be really nice.

Im intrested in this for my soil & having a hard time getting molasses in my part of the world, but since we do have quite

some sugar production here, do you know any more kinds of similar stuff? Some funny syrups maybe?

Edit; Stupid me didnt read proper :P Thx Lams, Tokage & Pi2

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Growing with molasses is fun easy and rewarding ive used it with many grows sucessfully with no problems . i was useing soil for the first 2 years i started learning how to grow just useing bio biz products but i was neva happy with the resulting tastes or aroemas .so after managing mastering my growing tech i started to experament first i got some bloombastic which went quite well and started to see a dramatic change the buds wer crazy exploading with resin. but the taste was not wer i wanted it but still it was an enprovement. so i decided to change my nuitrents compleatly i went with canna products as they have been around for.quite a while and was confused with all the new products as to wich was tha best. ow i also changed the soil to a mix of two bags of coco and one bag of clay pebbles on two 8 pot wilmas. anyway i got on realy well with the new medium and nuitrent through the vegging stage i could not of wished for anything better lovely shade of light green and a very shiny leaf i was useing all of canna coco products and addertives and as everything looked well and it was tha first time useing canna i decided to not use anything for taste or flushing just to get an idear of wer im at and wer i want to be. Anyway i compleated the grow sucessfully and was a lot more happyer with the results i recived a much bigger yield than the bio biz and that horrid taste had gone but allthough that taste had gone i thought that it was lackinga taste atall lol. this is when i started to do some research online. i was looking up how to make your plants smell and taste better. i came up with quite a few sollotions some comershall but most of them wer organic. pure cane sugar,blackstrap mollasses,honey,trecle. when i see them it made sense pure carbs ,bactiria,sweetness. and the best thing was its gonna cost next to nothing to experament well unless you mess the whole crop up then . you should be fine take a plant out of the.crop to test on and remember only a little bit at a time more is not the best thing for the plants you could make them become lazy of deer i say it die so pls take care. Well i started with the first thing on the list wich was in the cobourd not the most pro thing to do but wat the heck its on the list and got bennafits i would like. So i started with obviously pure sugar, honey,treceal thats wat was there and redy to hand. so i took out six test plants two for each test. ive been looking for my little black book wich i carnt find at the minit so ill have to add them later but i do know that i started with a 20 litre bucket and i added a table spoon per bucket to start after about three to seven days you.will start to notice the difference ow after the first 5 days of testing i picked up some blackstrap molasses at the local shop and took a nuver two.plants out for testing i thought id do a bit.more research as id neva used this b4 and also with the others as i wanted to know the optimum amount for.each one so i could just sit bk an judge the.results but this is still just a rugh guide as each an every strain has its different wants and needs but this should be enough to not.damage the plant and to be enough at the same time.

if you can get your hands on the liqid base mollasses use 1 to 2 ml per gallon mix into hot walter to diloot for hydro it can stain the roots and also make the roots become lazy this can be from over useing mollasses. the best way ive noticed is make up the mollasses and use inbetween feeds manualy or as a flushing agent

if you have the mollasses granuals then use one teaspoon per six litres inbetween feeds every 7 days

or one.dessert spoon per five lires and feed at two different stages through the flowering stage and starve the plants to allow lots of oxergen to the roots this promotes a dramatic groth spert

or finaly use 1 teaspoon per five litres and use to flush the larst 2 to 4 weeks of flowering make sure you desulve in hot walter do this nomatter which methord you use and have fun experomenting


raw evaporated surgar

this is a lot better to use hydroponicly as it dont clog or stain the roots

this can be used throughout the flowering phase

and then use mollasses with it towards the larst 2 to 4 weeks

for the raw evaporated sugar start of useing half a teaspoon per gallon then work your way up to a full teaspoon be carefull as plants come to depend on it once you have started

for the treacle make sure to keep separate as im not sure if you can use them al together . wer as mollasses sugar an malt can all be used in together as a mix wich if u get right can be better and stronger than other comercial products like bloombastic forinstance

anyway start of with a teaspoon of treceal per 20 litres and work your way up to 3 teaspoons this is the most ive ever used and ive only ever used it as a flushing agent . im sure it can be used in other ways and if u do only use one teaspoon to experament

well the experaments went well on all of the plants none of them had any fatle problems didnt even see any nuit damage i think if anything the lazyness of the plant is the only thing to keep an eye on. i think the best tasting was the treacle on its own it was so nice smoth.sweet an dank.

but even so.ive decided to use the blackstrap mollasses for the flushing of the rest of the crop as you can use the sugar malt and mollasses as ther is a lot more bennafits and gains. dont think im talking down the mollasses as im not the results of the molasses was aslo beutifull big resin glands dank and the taste was lovely i just thought is was a bit bitter copeared to the treacle but thats how i get back to my arnser because if i used sugar and malt with the molasses would be a hell.of a lot it was only the first experament it was very simple .as of now im still trying to come up with the perfect combination. well i hope this is helpfull and pls contact if you have any.questions tony

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they got the overgrow archived in a wiki here http://growwiki.theg...title=Main_Page

I read that article a couple years back and have been a regular user of molasses ever since. I use it in every phase of grow. mostly to chelate other things I put in my feeds. I use it on the heavy side with no issue 2-4 TBS to a gallon...Ive been using it so long I've forgotten how my strains behave without it but it definately dosent hurt them!

that plant has been on a molassas, urine and good soil diet since she rooted a month ago

2-4tbsp/gal seems REALLY heavy! 2 is right about the max if you ask me! The most I ever use is 2tsp during veg as I use it frequently, and during flower the most I use is maybe 1tbsp/gal.

How do you use it specifically?

I use it when brewing ACTs.

I once used it to the tune of 2tbsp/gal, UnSulphuered Molasses that is, and I got negative reaction from the 3 plants I tried it one.(White Widow, Bubblicious, and a Blue Widow). The White Widow moreso than the others. I lost pretty much all my fan between weeks 5-6 in flowering, and by brewing balanced ACTs by the book, rather than by experiment, I was able to restore order.

Could have been me turning my ACT aenerobic with too much of it..I couldn't call it. I went against my better judgment that day...

But with that said, In my personal experience a little Molasses got a LOOOOOOONGGGGGGG way, and you can use it in excess!

At the time I was using it every 3 out of 4 waterings, and decided I'd ramp it up just to see if I deliver it too as a nutrient via ACT. I failed and my fan leaves payed the cost.

To correct the issue I went back to my "by the book" ACTs rather than my experimental brews, which call for at most 1tbsp per gallon during flower.

But fan leaves fell for 4-5 days until there were just a few at the very top of the buds left.

The newer smaller leaves that returned were nice and vibrant tho, so I know that the fan leaves served their purpose as a buffer and kept my flowers safe!

But after everything said, I know 1tbsp per gallon is safe to use in moderation, but I think anything more the 1tbsp/gal used frequently could cause issue as it did for me!

When I'm using it often I use about 2tsp/gal and get goot results!

Molasses is full of too much to begin to list, so lets just say it has some of everything in it, but it's a powerhouse in terms of potash.

In the soil, the microorganisms make work of all that! The molasses itself has chelation properties that will in turn free up nutrients in the soil, so again a little will go a LOOONNNNGGGGG way in the soil ecosystem :biggrin:

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InternationalGreen- what were the visual side effects/benefits to the buds in flowering? Density, size, yield, resin changes? I'm probably going to add this to my arsenal at the rate of 2-3 tsp/gal every watering until harvest. Any tips or pointers I should know about before hand? Cheers

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The aromas were are surreal in regards to how intense they get!

I can't speak in terms of a side by side tho, as I've only gone with using molasses, but not without.

If your growing organic I'd suggest you use the molasses for sure, as its a natural carb in the soil ecosystem, and we as a power chelating agent, making nutes in the soil avaible to the plants faster! I've used a tbsp per gallon and those is cause me problems, so I only use it in moderation now, about a tsp per gallon when I brew ACTs.

It's very nutritious stuff, so it should be easy to over apply. I'd suggest no more than a tsp per gallon.

But I'm in the home stretch of flowering right now, so you'll be able to see how it's working for me over the next few weeks :D

And as far as yields, the smallest yield I had indoor was 2 oz 6 grams dried(with CFLs and 150w HPS), and thats bcuz i harvest a couple weeks too early.

The others were all closer to 3oz. Now that I have more powerful lights, i expect a minimum of 3-4 oz per plant!

But When you don't grow organic tho, you bypass the soil and fee the plant straight away. So you don't need the chelating power of molasses or the added carbs to the soil.

When you don't grow organic, your soil is more of a medium that the roots cant grow in, rather than a living soil that nourishing your plants.

Tips or pointers tho, use in int moderation! And if you're gonna use it in conjunction with chemicals, don't expect too much, bcuz IDK if it works the same way with synthetics.

In fact, I doubt it. But I could be off with that assumption. Maybe haha. :D

Bless brother!

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Ok thanks. I'll give it a go on my ladies, what's the recommended brand?

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There really isn't one specific brand that I know of other than Grandma's, but anything UnSulphured or Blackstap will do. Those are the only kinds that will do

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There really isn't one specific brand that I know of other than Grandma's, but anything UnSulphured or Blackstap will do. Those are the only kinds that will do

Ok, I am living in central Europe. Any recommendations what to use here?

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Meridian is the brand I use.

It is sold at my local health food store.

Biobizz veg is mostly made of sugar beet molasses, I may have mentioned it earlier in the thread, but thought I'd mentionit again if I hadn't.





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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

Cannabis, one of the most ancient plants known to man, used in every civilisation all over the world for medicinal and recreational purposes, is facing a very real threat of extinction. One day these plants could be helpful in developing better medications for the sick and the suffering. We feel it is our duty to preserve as many cannabis landraces in our genetic database, and by breeding them into other well-studied medicinal strains for the sole purpose of scientific research.

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