Jump to content

Easy Living Bud Hash Oil Tutorial


DanMacGrowesalot
 Share

Recommended Posts

Every grower gets anxious when harvest time is still weeks away, and they have no smoke. Speed drying buds with ballast heat or other methods is never satisfying...

Here is a method of making the best cream hash in the world while you wait on those buds to ripen fully, (even from fresh or living buds!):

You will need:

  • Extractor tube- preferably glass (broken bottle with split cap and optional coffee filter works perfectly)
  • Alcohol- 99% isopropyl(cheap) is best or everclear(expensive!)
  • Glass or Pyrex pan for evaporation
  • Clean poker- I use a metal shiska-bob stick
  • Flat edge razor-blade (comes new with petroleum oil on it/clean with soap-water and/or alcohol!)
  • PROPER VENTILATION!!!- do outside if possible or under vent-hood of ELECTRIC stovetop if it's powerful enough- Use the same safety precautions as you would for "Rick Simpson Oil"! My evaporation method may not be the safest for your own unique environment, but outside is safe..
  • Heated water (to heat alcohol)- optional, but I think it makes the oils dissolve in seconds

First of all, select any potent plant material (usually aging/older sugar leaves and thin lower-branch flowers and leaves from growing plants, as well as fresh trim) that you wish to extract. A few grams will work ok if you don't have much to spare or want to make a fast and easy batch the first time.

Remove any leaves that have no trichomes so they do not add chlorophyll or extra "planty" flavors to your oil. I do not cut or break the buds up unless they are rock hard; all of the oils are usually exposed for the alcohol to flow over without further manipulation. Chopping or grinding the living/fresh weed will only expose chlorophyll to the solvent and yield a green oil.

Screw a cracked plastic cap (with an optional coffee filter in between) on to the mouth of the bottle and pre-rinse with water, then alcohol to ensure cleanliness. Place your selected plant material into your bottle extractor (pictured).

2299561050102519282S500x500Q85.jpg

Heat water to near boiling in a pan on an electric stove-top, then turn off. Alcohol and its evaporating vapors are extremely flammable and explosive if ignited! Make absolutely sure you are in a well ventilated area free from sparks and open flame (No smoking or gas stoves, as well as red hot electric elements). If your stove has a strong vent fan, it will take away the fumes safely. I use the vent fan, a small handheld fan, and a window fan blowing outside. Place your alcohol bottle into the hot water for a few minutes until it becomes noticeably hot to the touch; this will dissolve the oils more quickly like cold lard under hot water.

2442793840102519282S425x425Q85.jpg

2509815880102519282S425x425Q85.jpg

Stir the plant material in the bottle with your poker, but do not grind the weed while doing so. You just want to disturb the oils only.

Pour just enough hot alcohol to saturate the wet plant material while holding the extractor over your Pyrex dish. The buds and leaves take on a "crunchy" texture seconds after the alcohol is introduced, similar to dry weed. This allows the plant material to be stirred, then compressed lightly in the bottom of the bottle with your poker. Again, do not cram too tightly or grind the plant matter unless you want green oil! This part should take only a few seconds for best quality...

2125379500102519282S425x425Q85.jpg

I then flush about three or four separate shots of alcohol through the bottle over the next 45 seconds to 1 minute. The heated alcohol drains through more quickly and will dissolve 99% of the oils in the bottle with only a few ounces of solvent. It is important to do this quickly to avoid dissolving the green parts. It is also important to use as little solvent as possible for a faster and safer evaporation.

2400659730102519282S425x425Q85.jpg

Now you evaporate. I turn the electric stove on medium and set the stove-top safe Pyrex dish down for a few seconds at a time, until I see convection in the solvent just a little. I know my ventilation is adequate in my environment, but make sure you are either outside or that all of the fumes are immediately carried out of the area!

2211343030102519282S425x425Q85.jpg

When most of the solvent is evaporated turn the heat off. It will take on a thick, syrup like consistency at first, then start to dry and possibly look grainy. I put my hand on the bottom of the glass for a second after removing from the heat to make sure it is not too hot (it should be hot to the touch after a second, but not burn you).

You will now have to rake and smooth the hot oil around in the pan for a few minutes to release the last trace of alcohol. The oil will have the consistency of olive oil at first and easily glide around. Keep it warm as you scrape it, and it will slowly get waxy over a couple of minutes and stick the blade to the pan.

2190683400102519282S425x425Q85.jpg

It looks like this when its finished and spread out.

2950621730102519282S500x500Q85.jpg

It should chip like glass at cool temperatures and come off of skin easily if it is free of solvent. If it appears too wet, reheat to a warm temp and spread again..

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice one Dan for sharing your technique with us.

That sure is some nice looking resin you got there, a real boon if you harvest isn't quite ready and you've run out of smoke. :)

Bozoph yours is also some good lookin quality resin.

Peace brothers

Lams

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuck i'm gonna have to figure otu how to make those tools but thaks a lot for the how-to, i'm really excited about that, dust pm i'm you have any idea where i can buy all the nescessary shit in our country ;)

Peace!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Elias this might be useful - http://www.mon-drogu...opyliquedsn.cfm

As for knocking of the end of the bottle off, try droppin something heavy, like a poker (for poking fires) down the neck of the bottle this should nock out the bottom of the bottle fairly cleanly. Anything heavy (generally something metal) which fits through the neck of the bottle will do the trick (used to do it with wine bottles and an all metal table knife, so we could do bucket/gravity bongs).

Don't use plastic funnels as Isopropyl alcohol can make it gummy.

If you can afford to i would buy a wine collection funnel either of stainless steel of glass.

Here's couple of links for them.

These are some of the most reasonable prices i found.

Stainless steel wine collection funnel - http://www.auravita.....WMFA11159.html

Glass wine collection funnel - http://www.amazon.co...g/dp/B005NU459Y

Peace Lams

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lamsbread , thaks a lot bro!

I havent had a gravity bong for ages as well and i'm not gonna do it soon lol but that oil thing, just caught myself checking the honeybee extractor, and to be honnest the gumby method was effective but i got less hash and a lesser quality than when i used the bags afterwards...

My point is, what do you guys think about the honeybee extractor? I guess most of you will tell me it's a loss of money with "how-to" like this one (and i dont mean do be disrespectfull) but since i had better result making hash with the "accesories" than using the "roots" method i was wondering...

Peace!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Elias

The above method described by DanMacGrowesalot is an ISO method, ISO extractions are often reffered to a "Budder".

The honey bee is a "Butane" extraction, absolutely no problems from me buying one peoples time and money are thier own business.

People will always have opinions. I believe it is entirely up to you wether you listen to opinions or not but if you ask someone a direct question then a little more thought should be applied to the advice given.

I made a DIY butane extractor from a turkey baster, it's in the forum somewhere see if i can find it.

I had a look through my past threads but i din't instantly find it.

I will leave you and Dan some links which may prove useful they cover a range of extractions.

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 QWISO - Quick Wash ISO

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make wicked hash

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make alcohol free cannabis tincture

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make hash jelly

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 THC extraction solvents

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make honey oil safely

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 THC extraction videos

Peace hunters

Lams

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Again i didnt mean to be disrespectfull and had no idea that those were two different method, both of them seems a little scary so to say as i'm not really good with manual task so to say...

The honeybee extractor seemed safer and i was wandering if using such a device could lead to higher grade stuff like i had seen when i used a bag as opposed too using the gumby method.

I understand now that those are two different method leading to two different products.

Thanks guys.

Peace!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No disrespect taken .

Always ask questions that’s how we learn.

I would rather a question was asked than some ones health and safety be at risk, or end up with and unusable product.

I would have to agree with DKH, ISO is a cleaner product. A lot of butane contains some nasty stuff, where as 99.9% pure isopropyl alcohol needs to be clean as it is used for medical and disinfectant purposes. Butane is designed to be used in lighters and is not specifically design to make extractions.

If someone were to use butane then they should buy 1oo% pure butane , it should be stated on the can. You can also press the nozzle on to a mirror momentarily and let the gas evaporate, if there is a white residue don’t use it , that residue is the impurities.

There is absolutely no problem making gumby hash especially if you don’t have bubble bags or are using a small quantity of material. You will still end up with some great hash.

Bubble bags can also make so really nice hash but can be expensive to buy. One benefit of a multiple screen set is you will get different grades of hash each with a slightly different effect.

Green dragon is a method of putting your material in to a bottle of spirits , which is shaken and left so that the THC is made soluble by the alcohol.

Gold dragon is similar to green dragon, the only difference is the material has been decarboxylated.In lay mans terms this means it has been heated in a controlled process. This gentle heating makes the THC more psychoactive.

You can also use glycerine to make alcohol free tincture,which is idea if you or the person taking it is a recovering alcoholic or you religion forbids it. Again decarboxylated material would work beter in this method.

This next bit will explain Decarboxylation

Decarboxylation - A method of making the THC more psychoactive through controlled heating.

Decarboxylation

By Ed Rosenthal - Thursday, January 2 2003

Does marijuana have to be heated to become psychoactive?

I bought a Coldfinger to make an extract, but my problem is this: Doesn't marijuana have to be heated to become psychoactive?

My solution was to put the marijuana in the oven before putting it in the Coldfinger. But I have no idea how long I should leave it in there, let alone at what temperature. I know THC boils at 392 degrees F. But other cannabinoids, which are essential to the experience, boil off much more quickly. At what temperature can I decarboxylate the THC, while still preserving some of the cannabinoids?

Marijuana produces THCA, an acid with the carboxylic group (COOH) attached. In its acid form, THC is not very active. It is only when the carboxyl group is removed that THC becomes psychoactive. When marijuana is smoked, the THC behind the hot spot is vaporized as the hot air from the burn is drawn through the joint or pipe bowl to the unburned material. The liquid THC and other cannabinoids have a boiling point of between 180-200? C (355-392? F). Before they turn gaseous, at around 106? C (220? F), the carboxyl group is released from the molecule as carbon dioxide and water vapor.

You will be extracting the THC using low heat in the commercially made Coldfinger Extractor. (They have a very interesting online catalog at www.edenlabs.org). The THC will not reach a temperature in which decarboxylation takes place. However, if you plan to vaporize or smoke the extract decarboxylation will take place as the oil is used.

However, it is easy to make sure all the THC is decarboxylated and is at full strength before it is extracted. Although decarboxylation takes place rapidly at 106? C, it proceeds at a more gradual pace by placing the cannabis in a room with low relative humidity and room temperature. As the temperature rises, the rate of decarboxylation increases.

Cannabis can also be placed in a food dehydrator to remove the carboxyl group. Although the heat in the food dehydrator doesn't rise to 106? C, the temperature is warm enough to promote drying and the release of the water and CO2. When the marijuana is crispy and brittle you can be assured that the carboxyl group has been removed from the cannabinoids and they are ready for extraction or removal from the plant material.

Copied and pased from - http://www.cannabisc...icles/2794.html

Ask An Old Hippie: How Do You Make Green/Gold Dragon?

Dear Old Hippie: For a while now, I’ve heard rumors about the legendary Green Dragon that can get you high anywhere without smoking, yet I’ve never heard of anyone selling it. What can you tell me about this fabulous beast?

A: The Green Dragon — and his consort, The Gold Dragon — are indeed real. The reason it’s hard to buy from your typical weed dealer is that generally you must make it yourself. Medical Marijuana patients with access to well-stocked dispensaries can find such products on the shelf. So what’s the big deal about it? Read on.

You can’t just smoke anything anywhere any more, and most edibles are too strong to use on a regular basis for many people. So the appeal of the Dragons is that you carry around a discreet little brown bottle, put a dropper in your favorite drink, and you’re comfortably medicated. Consider the recent popularity of liquid-based natural sweeteners like Stevia and you’ll realize that you can safely medicate even in a restuarant with two large CHP officers watching you, as I once did.

Dropped in your drink, it will generally take effect in anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes. But if you take it sublingually — under your tongue — you will feel it within 30 seconds, with the full effect coming on in 5 to 15 minutes.

Green and Gold Dragon are technically tinctures or extracts of cannabis. You’ve heard of tincture of iodine and vanilla extract? Both are made by simply soaking or dissolving the material in alcohol. That’s what we’re doing here. You may be interested to learn that Tincture of Cannabis was a standard pharmacy item in this country for far longer than it’s been illegal.

Of course, you have to use the right kind of alcohol, which is ethanol (the kind you drink). The higher the alcohol content, the more efficient the process will be, so most people use Everclear, which is available in 190 or 151 proof, depending on your state of residence. Here in California, you can get good results with the 151 proof, or visit any neighboring state for the “real stuffâ€. Any liquor of 90 proof or more will work, but most people prefer to use vodka or Everclear because they don’t add any additional taste of their own. You can always add some flavoring later if you want.

There are a number of non-chemical problems with using alcohol. For one thing, alcoholics can’t use it, and for another, it burns like hellfire if you put it under your tongue. If you use this method, I recommend holding your mouth open until the burn goes away, and perhaps having a drink of something else handy. This burning sensation is why some people prefer using lower-proof tinctures based on vodka, or else vegetable-based glycerin (which also solves the problem for alcoholics). My experience with glycerin-based Dragons is that they don’t work at all, but some very careful people have had good results with them.

What’s the difference between Green and Gold? Green simply uses fresh marijuana, and Gold uses marijuana that’s been decarboxylated. Green Dragon often tastes of chlorophyll and other things found in and on the plant. Decarboxylating cannabis only involves baking it in a 250°F oven for an hour, but it can make your kitchen smell like the proverbial pot party. Gold Dragon is generally stronger and tastes mellower in my experience.

You don’t even have to use your precious buds to give this stuff a try. If you have access to dried fan leaves, they will work fine for Green Dragon. AVB (Already Vaped Bud, also known as Already Been Vaped or duff) is what’s left in a vaporizer after it’s been used. Since vaporizing also decarboxylates the weed, you can use this to make Gold Dragon. Both fan leaves and AVB are often thrown away by people who don’t realize how useful they can be, so it’s an excellent example of recycling!

So here’s the safe and easy way to make it:

  • Crush, crumble, or grind up your cannabis, however much you want to use. I recommend at least an 1/8 ounce.
  • Put the material in a suitable size glass jar with a tight-fitting top. I use a Mason jar for larger quantities, but cleaned condiment jars (think pickles, relish, mustard) are perfect for normal use.
  • Pour enough of your chosen drinkable alcohol into the jar to easily cover the cannabis.
  • Close the cover, and shake it up, baby!
  • Now comes the hard part: put the jar in a warm, dark place for at least a month. I’ve found that the longer you go (I try to go 8 to 10 weeks), the stronger and better it will taste, up to a point. Shake it every day for at least two weeks.
  • When the time is up, simply filter it through a coffee filter to remove the dregs (and squeeze to get every last drop out).

Warmth helps the process along, and darkness (or using a dark-colored jar) protects the THC from degrading. The perfect place is in the exhaust path of a computer fan, because you’re recycling heat. If you have a completely opaque jar, it’s also cool to leave it in a sunny window for free solar power.

When you try it, start with 1/4 dropper under your tongue. Wait 15 minutes, and if it’s not strong enough, try another 1/4 dropper, and so on until you feel it. You’ll quickly figure out your own correct dosage. If the liquid isn’t dark, or it takes more than a dropper to feel results, it might be too diluted. In that case, leave the jar open overnight so some of the alcohol will evaporate, and try again.

As you can see, this isn’t all that hard to do. Actually, the most difficult part might be next: finding a 1 to 4-ounce, dark-colored glass dropper bottle to carry your Dragon around in. You may have to make the rounds of drug stores, or recycle a bottle of Stevia, but you have a month to do it!

Copied and pasted from - http://the420times.c...e-green-dragon/

I will repost the links here again, read through them and check the video link there are lots of methods explained.

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 QWISO - Quick Wash ISO

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make wicked hash

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make alcohol free cannabis tincture

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make hash jelly

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 THC extraction solvents

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 How to make honey oil safely

http://www.strainhun...__fromsearch__1 THC extraction videos

http://www.greendragonsoda.com/ How to make green dragon

I realize there is a lot of information here, you don’t have to try and take it all in at once. Read or watch a bit at a time keep dipping in and it will come to you. Keep asking questions no matter how trivial you might think them. Some one else will sure think “I was gonna ask that but I thought it too silly†they will learn from your question! No question is to small.

Having an interest is the first step.

Learning about it is the second step.

Application of knowledge learned is the third step.

Enjoying your finished product and satisfaction on a job well done is the last step.

Peace Lams

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

working on evaporating my second batch this morning lol!

this is a great recipe thx!

the golden stuff on the left was the first wash and the black glass looking stuff is the second wash. the black stuff seems to burn more thickly like more smoke than the first. although this whole "oil" or hash thing is completely new to me. Iam learning how to smoke it as I go... I prolly wasted half of the first batch that I made lol!

post-12705-0-54712800-1348780820.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...