Jump to content

need opinions.. strange looking leaves


WhiteRhino
 Share

Recommended Posts

I do not know what the problem is but if you have a dog so you should probably check that he did not go into your greenhouse. It looks like you have some kind of insect in your greenhouse. I hope they survive anyway. Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest superbluehaze

My guess is that it is a genetic deformity. The rest of the leaves are not developing normally either. I would send these photos to green house, and they may replace the seeds; in nature things just happen, mutations which in some cases, depending on the environment give the offspring a edge in survival, but in most cases it does not. If you have a close look you can see that, although it looks as though something has eaten it, the rest of growth is abnormal as well. This is a genetic deformaty.

happy growing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest samuelo
Get a ziplock bag or just some clingyfilm and make a tee-pee that fits over plant pot, and do not water too often, leave the bag over the plant until it produces its first 2 sets of true leaves, also have you been alowing the plants a good air supply? Perhaps use a small fan to create a gentle breeze... Do not be put off by the smaller leaves or irregular shaped leaves, to be honest your seedling looks small but try not to 'over-care' for her as often you can do more damage by acting too quickly or getting in a panic.

If you have something like Nitrozyme pure organic growth enhancer - then use that as it is ideal as a seedling treatment - i have used this before and it perks the plants up - i used like 2ml per 1000ml in a spray bottle and misted into the soil - do not saturate the leaves in water or conentrated Nitrozyme... make it a soil application

I think she will be fine as the weeks go past - check out my new beginnings post and you can see how the started from seeds to how they are now, they were all different when they popped their heads out the soil, in previous grows i have had seed husks stick to the new shoot and this has also made the first lil leaves grow a lil slow but remember - they are doing things underground

also because you are with your plant so much you may not see the growth as a stranger would - so it is also good idea for you to post your pics here and you can look back and see the growth for yourself

Happy Growing Amigo :steve:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

thank u guys for your input..

well its actually just those 2 out of 20 that has been like that .. allthough some of the others do have some dark spots on the leaves but after i moved up the lamps theyve gotten better and the leaves are not hanging today ... heres what it looks like here u can see the dark spots :


IMG_0211(2).jpg
IMG_0212.JPG
IMG_0213.JPG
IMG_0214.JPG
IMG_0215.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest superbluehaze

They look fine to me, but just watch that yellowing, and if it continues, water less.

My friend white rhino is bloody amazing, but veg it for as long as you can, nip it once ot twice and train it;

my white rhino is about 5 feet in circumference; do not worry it will not get too tall, and I have smoked some trim(oh yes, prune the parts of the plant lower down) and it is going to be really potent.

See the pictures of my white rhino, in the indoor growing section. I think this one plant, indoors, will yield between 8 oz and 16 oz, and maybe even more.

all the best and happy growing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest superbluehaze

The dark spots are from having the light too close. As long as the light is further way, that is not a problem.

With your soil, mix in a conditioner like perlight. This will make your soil drain better and allow more air spaces.

The light yelowing in the new growth is more of a problem - it is either a magnesium deficiency, or else the roots are not getting enough air, through to much water.

I think it is because the soil needs to dry out a bit before you water again.

If you are not sure about a nutrient deficiency, you can always feed the plant through spraying the leaves, especially underneath.

I think it is just that the soil need to dry out. When it does it allows for air spaces, too much water in the soil displaces air, and without oxygen the roots can not stay healthy or absorb nutrients.

The large the pot the better, but you do not have to transplant just yet; I start my plants in a 4 liter pot and transplant at around week 6 or 7. Wait until the roots have formed a large mass, and that way, if you are careful, the plant will not have transplant shock, as the root hold the soil together and are not damaged. When you transplant give you plants some super thrive or other nutrient that contains B vitamins.

Seaweed and fish emulsion are very good as well, as it contains a lot of plant enzymes, trace minerals and other goodies.

Nip and train - at the fourth inter node, cut pinch the growing shoot; in a few weeks there will be 2 new growing tips will; slightly bend them a part, then when they have formed another two or 3 internodes, pinch the growing tip on both of them again. Let them grow, and then you sculpture the plant. You do this by bending the branches down, and if you do this enough over a peroid of time, the branches stay where yu want them too. I think it is called Low Stress training.

It is time consuming, and another way is to tie the branches down.

The idea is to get the laterials to grow upwards, so that one plant becomes a sea of green, with laterals growing upwards everywhere. Plants(and here I am paraphrasing from Mel Franck and Ed Rosenthal book) grow from the tips of their stems and branches. The growing tip produces a hormone that acts as a growth inhibitor. This prevents the side branches from growing, so remove the tip and the side branches grow. I will check and see if I can not get something from the net that will show this to you.

The idea is to have a plant that is not much higher than 2 or 3 feet, but looks like a sea of green. The idea is to get the plant to grow outtwards rather than up.

happy growing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest superbluehaze

LST Low Stress Training

Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield. It is important to start your grow with high potency marijuana seeds genetics, with LST you can even go for tall sativa cannabis seeds strains.

Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at:

Light Brown: Pot Outline

Green thick Lines: Main Stem

Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top: Fan leafs

Yellow Lines: Side Branches

Red: Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks - it's easier)

The Text in the box: First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)

LST Low Stress Training Tutorial Picture

STEP 1: Grow your plant from a potent marijuana seeds strain of choice to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.

STEP 2: Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.

STEP 3: This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.

STEP 4: Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.

STEP 5: Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.

STEP 6: Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely. Sativa cannabis seeds strains grow faster and produce more stems, indica marijuana seeds varieties will grow half as much.

STEP 7: Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.

STEP 8: Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.

STEP 9: After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.

low-stress-training-marijuana-growing-inDuring flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.

Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom. There is no Step 10 in the picture but we all know what that is HARVEST!!!

Sativa indica hybrids or sativa marijuana seeds strains are suitable for LST as they grow fast and low stress training helps to control their height. Choose a potent, high yielding cannabis seeds variety for LST!

best I could do in a hurry, but I may find something bette; chech out Hightimes.com, they may have a better article on it. This is not the way I do it, but it is a start.

all the best and happy growing.

^
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superbluehaze always has great info to share. LST is supposed to be easy and fun, so if your a beginner, just remember to take it a step at a time and have fun.

As for the strange looking leaves, thats because of overwatering. Remember, that as a seedling, you only need to keep the seed moist. On a scale of one to ten, about a five. That will help with the twisting and curling.

That first leaf set is definitely damage to the leaves. Wether it be bugs ( or perhaps a little help to get the shell off the top.) Either way she will survive.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest superbluehaze

an internode is the spaces between the branches, where they meet the main stem.

Sativa have a long internode and indicas a short one:

here is another link, on low stress training:

forum.sensiseeds.com/forum_posts.asp

A paraphrase from Marijuana Growers Guide, Mel Frank and Ed Rosenthal.

Each time you pinch, with thumb and forefinger a growing stem or tip, or cut it with a knife, two shoots begin to form from the nearest leaf axial( where the next step of leaves are).

This form of pruning allows the plant's side branches to develop earlier than they would have.

By doing this the plant has more branches and can present a greater area to gather more light, and grow larger.

This does set the plant back a little and not all strains do well with this technique.

Plants grow from the tips of their stems and branches.

The growing tip produces a hormone, that prevents the lateral branches from growing, and this gives the plant its distinctive shape, as the further the branch is from the growing tip, the less the affect of the hormone.

That is why many strains have the distinctive Christmas tree shape, with the longest branches at the bottom of the plant.

Many people do not like to cut the growing shoot on the main stem, so they reduce the affect of the hormonal inhibitor, by not cutting the tip, but bend it over instead.

This forces the plant to grow outwards rather than upwards.

The first few inches of the stem are flexible, and using a wire twist or string it can be secured in that position, but the wire twist must be removed after a few days so there is no damage to the plant.

The tip is secured a number of times for a few days, over a peroid of weeks, and this forces the plant to grow outwards rather than upwards.

This technique develops large, bushy plants, with dense growth.

What the grower is after here, is a space full with a cubic layer of flower clusters, rather than a lot of stem.

This technique can more than double your yield, as long as you give the plants enough light.

After nipping, and when the branches have grown about 6 or so inches, I bend the branches by hand to grow horizontally, and train them to stay in that position, and then all the laterial branches grow upwards, and this makes one plant look like a sea of green; as it grows outward rather than upwards. The plants need lots of light though

I hope it helps,

happy growing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest superbluehaze

thank you Romeu; I am a writer and philosopher(I studied English lit and philosophy to Phd level) and I may do that one day, but here we are learning from each other, and I think this is much more rewarding.

Happy growing, my friend

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i havent overwatered them but the yellowing seems to get a little bit worse someone said magnesiumdiffeciency... i dont have calibration fluid for my EC thingie ill go buy some tomorrow but just for fun i tried with the uncalibrated meter.. it said 0.82 ... if its near correct that is way too low or?

and in that case how do i correct

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...