Arjan Haze #3, Big Bang GHSC Big Buddha Cheese & Dr. Undeground Crystal M.E.T.H.

[anguscr]

Fuzzy... I'll love to buy direct to GHSC, but they deliver "under your own responsability", even that mail cannot be open & is protected by our Constitution, but "under suspision of the package can contain drugs" the authorities can open it. The grow shop where I buy all my stuff does a very discret packaging inside they put dark DVD cases, etc. In my country seeds are illigal too!!!!!!.

[anguscr]

After John SuperblueHaze remarkable advice, yesterday I put them in flush with PH balanced water at 5.9, & prepair the solution for them taking the EC down to 0.85. Today, after the 24 hrs flush I change the water for the new solution with a PH= 5.9 & EC=0.85, also I take the males out.

I have to rearange the SOG, I leave 2 big bang that are about the same size, 1 Painkiller & 1 Melon Gum in one system to try to continue the SOG with dominant indicas, never the less the big bang are way higher than the other. In the secon system I have the Arjan Haze #3 & the Crystal METH, both Sativas, the Arjan Haze#3 is a small Sativa & the Crystal METH is a huge Sativa, So I'm growing them together in 1 system, if needed I'll tranfer the to 5 galon buckets.

Here's how it looks today

The Big Bang are about the same size, but the distance between internots is very different, don't know if they're diferent genothypes or what

The Sativas Arjan Haze #3 & Crystal METH

The Crystal METH is branching very nice

We'll see how it goes my strainhunters friends, I'm trying to keep the SOG philosophy with the indicas,,,,

[anguscr]

After I created the SOG with 9 out of 19 plant, I move them under 1 160W CFL on the top & 2 64W CFL's on the side, most of the girls are fully recover, just keep pending 1 Big Bang that's barely begining to root & was the plant that suffer the most, 2 Cheese's that are not progresing in days & 1 Jack Herer that still has some burns on the leaves, the other Jack Herer is looking very good.

The 2 Bibang, 1 fully recover & the other one just begining to recover.

The Jack Herer, fighting!

The Cheese, both fighting!!!

I need help on this last plants that I need to rescue....so...help!!!!!

[Guest superbluehaze]

hi my friend.

personally I would go for the buckets - this gives you greater control feeding each plant, and you can move them around if some get a little higher than others, or if you just want to make sure each one gets their equal share of the light.

Do you give them silica, fulvic acid, zyme and B1?

This is a great Australian company that makes amazing nutrients, and they can be purchased where you are:

http://www.nutrifield.com.au/

I started to use their whole range, and my plants have become a beautiful shade of green, I had only dreamed of before.

i recommend them 100%

happy growing,

my friend

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

What temp is your nutrient solution?

Root Zone Temperature

This is dependent on the type of crop, but as a general rule 18â°C to 22â°C is ideal range. For Winter crops use the lower end of the range and for tropical crops use the warmer end of the range. This also applies to the water temperature of the nutrient solution.

Ideal Humidity

As a general rule 40% to 65% is optimum. The conditions to consider in this situation is if the humidity is too high the breeding rates of pathogens will increase, as to will the probability of mould, botrytis, fruit rot and powdery mildew.

Amount of lighting required

For optimum growing conditions using High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighting, 600 to 800 watts/m2 is optimal. It is also important to consider a number of criteria when choosing a light source, such as Photo synthetically Active Radiation (PAR, which is the light a plant can actually use), intensity, spectrum and ballast efficiency.

System Hygiene

Just like humans plants are prone to disease and pest attack. The best form of protection is prevention. Keep your system clean by continually sanitizing. The best option for this is to use beneficial micro organisms instead of chemical sanitizers, which are generally harmful to the plants.

Air movement

As part of photosynthesis and respiration plants require CO2 and Oxygen to survive. The simplest way to do this is to continually exchange the air within the room. As a minimum it is important to exchange the air in the room at least once every 15 minutes.

Guidelines to Growing Medium Selection

Careful consideration must be given to this choice as there are many variables involved. As the grower you must consider the type of system. As a general rule Coco coir is the most forgiving medium and will deliver optimum results as it has a good water holding capacity and a high porosity to allow Oxygen in. On the other hand there is Expanded Clay which is also a good medium but is better suited to systems that continually water as it has a low water holding capacity, but has an extremely high porosity.

The Seven Key Aspects of hydroponics

These are all the conditions that as a grower you must control to maximize your yield. They are, Medium, System, Lighting, Environmental, Feeding Regime, Plant and Grower. Remember your results will only be as good as your weakest link, so don’t ignore any of these variables.

Trouble Shooting

Over watering

This is one of the most common issues in hydroponics. It can be noticed by yellowing of leaves from the bottom of the plant or slow growth. Over watering will starve your medium of Oxygen, increase the likeliness of disease, cause root problems, pests and reduce growth. In mediums such as Coco Coir short feeds of approximately 1 to 2 minutes scheduled 4 to 5 times during the lights on period should be ideal. This is based on approximately feeding each plant 4L to 6L daily with a run off of 10 to 15%.

Salt build up

This is common in recirculation systems. It will generally show up as the tips of the leaves burning. This is easily solved by just flushing out the medium with fresh water, this is also an excellent time to use Fulife.

Flowers rotting

This is caused by a pathogen called Botrytis. The best solution for this is to use the beneficial micro organism Bioxy which will feed on the pathogen. For best results it is also essential to reduce down the humidity on the growing environment.

Leaves curling over

This is generally due to incorrect pH levels, but can also signify Calcium deficiency. In this instance it would be ideal to flush your medium with fresh water and start adjusting the pH more frequently. It may also be beneficial to measure the waste pH to adjust the tank accordingly.

Purpling of leaves

This generally occurs during late bloom and is due to a deficiency of Phosphorous. In this instance adjust the pH to approximately 6.4 and use X10 Boost as delivery system and Alaska Pure as a natural Phosphorous source.

What to do if you have rot root

Dose the plants with a fungicide and allow 4 days for it to leave the system. To aid in the recovery and promote rapid root development dose with Nf Zyme and X10 Boost.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is PH?

pH is defined as the degree of acidity/alkalinity of a solution. It is identified on the pH scale ranging from 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 representing the neutral point. Solutions with a pH less than 7 are considered acidic, while those above 7 are considered basic (alkaline). The pH scale is logarithmic, meaning small changes in pH represent large changes in the degree of acidity or alkalinity. For example, a solution with a pH of 5 is ten times as acidic as a solution with a pH of 6, but a solution with a pH of 5 is 100 times as acidic as a solution with a pH of 7. For plants this is relevant, as the majority of plants will undergo maximum unassisted uptake of nutrient in a pH range of 5.8 to 6.3.

Foliar feeding and its importance

Foliar feeding is the technique of applying liquid fertiliser directly to the plants leaves. Clinical research has shown that plants absorb nutrients from foliar feeding at the rate of approximately 30cm per hour to all parts of the plant. Foliar feeding is considered especially useful for introducing trace elements, or for the emergency feeding of plants which are found to have a specific shortage of a particular element. In some cases, as with the example tomatoes, it's actually believed that foliar feeding during flower set causes a dramatic increase in fruit production.

It must be considered that foliar feeding alone will not satisfy your plants nutrient requirements. This is because foliar absorption is limited by the relative barrier of the cuticle.

How to foliar feed

It is possible to use any full spectrum nutrient to foliar feed your plants, but it is advised that the nutrient be organic or organic based. To avoid nutrient burn the foliar nutrient solution strength should be no more than 1/3 of the manufacturers recommended dosage for root zone feed programs. The ideal temperature to foliar feed at is approximately 22ºC. This is the temperature when stomata on the underside of the leaves are open, at temperatures above 28ºC the stomata may not be open at all. This would deem the foliar feed ineffective. Keeping this in mind, it is important to foliar feed during the cooler parts of the day. For optimum results and to prevent burning it is best to foliar feed early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

It is important to foliar feed with a high quality sprayer, the sprayer must be able to atomise the solution into a very fine mist. Also ensure that the pH of your solution is adjusted to between 6.2 and 7. During the feeding process, it is important to spray both the top and underside of the leaf surface until the liquid begins to drip off the leaves. At a minimum foliar feed once a week and if there is any white residue found on the leaves rinse the foliage with pH adjusted water to reduce salt build-up.

What is Root Rot?

Root Rot is a condition generally suffered by plants root systems due to poor soil drainage or over watering. The excess water makes it difficult for the roots to get the air that they require, making them rot. Root rot is best prevented or controlled as there is no cure.

The most common form of root rot is due to Pythium spp. When severe the lower portion of the stem becomes slimy and black. Usually, the soft to slimy rotted outer portion of the root can be easily separated from the inner core.

more below my friend.

[Guest superbluehaze]

I have had a good think about what your problem is:

I think it is the system your are using - such systems need to be used with a chiller to keep the nutrient solution at exactly the right temperature, as these systems are prone to causing root rot in plants.

I would change over to watering them from the top, either useing a pump or by hand;

then as the water flows through the medium, it draws air with it, and you have much more control over how much air the roots ge by controlling how wet they become and allowing them to dry out between cycles.

Pot needs heaps of air, and can not tolerate its roots being continually wet.

I do not think the system your are using is really suitable for pot, and such systems do cause a lot of problems with the roots of plants.

I am almost certain that your plants will never do as good as they could in that particular system,

or at least, unless you chill your nutruent solution.

Personally, I think such systems are more trouble than they are worth, and not every hydro system is good for every plant, and pot is a plant that requires its roots to dry out a bit so they can breath, and absorb nutrients.

happy growing,

my friend.

john

[anguscr]

John... The issue is that I was using a Flood & Drain system with pots & as medium Coco & volcanic stones (There are no other mediums for sale here & mediums & nutes need to be Register so u cam import them; any other stuff I can get it on line). With the Flood & Drain I constanly overwater them, could no fix a good timing, try evry 5 days, reduce it as I review the plants, find out that my medium was not the best, wasted 2 months rescuing plants, several die, etc.

Them I move tem to the DWC & all of them are looking great!!!, I'm still amaze by the results & never thought it was going to be this good, with the exception of the Cheese, Big Bang & 1 Jack Herer that I think that as soon as some roots start touching the water they'll star growing. It's very weird that just 3 out of 10 are still not taking off, but hope they will.

I agree with you in the matter that to obtain beatifull plants, fully develop at their maximum, there's no better way that hand watering, close observation , maximaize your medium by your own experience, & develop a much closer/personal relationship with your plants, but with the lack of elements that the local market has, makes it very difficult, actually I was thinking in importing the NutriField producs & star selling them here in the near future, open a detail & whosale Hydro Store... maybe a good bussines!!?? There's no one here!!!

Plus my stash is very low!!!.

Man, good reading, great summary, thank u very much.

The system I'm using is a 10 galon Rubermaid (the ones on flowering are in a 20 galon one since their roots are fully develop, nice, white & long), the water temperature is 20.86; it has no sprayers, just 3 9 inches airstones & 3 powerfull airpums (I call him the ROOTER) this keeps the water highly oxigenate & I use it with seedlings(Netpots are 1/2 inch over the water. I found out that the system can be to small for the size of the plant, so probably I'll move them to one of 20 galons.

Thanks again John.

[Guest superbluehaze]

I see, my friend;

I thought it was a form of NFT; the nutrient temperature is fine, and if the roots are white and healthy, then that is what you want.

Great stuff;

talk to Carlos, at he will help you set that up, and you will do well with it.

They are, in my opinion,the best nutruents on the market.

happy growing,

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

If you need his email address, send me a message and I will get it to you.

all the best

happy growing,

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

I can see what you mean, some are doing well and some are not;

though none of the pictures of the roots were really good. The roots when healthy are white but fuzzy; none of those roots have any little feeder roots.

If you can get Nutrifield products there, you could take one or two of the ones that are not doing well and plant them in coco,

but put a good layer of larva at the bottom, then put in flexible airstone on top of it, shaped into a horse shoe, and then the coco, but have the air line coming out of one of the drainage holes in the pot,

and hand water using the nutrified nutrients, and see if they do not come back.

Tape the air lines to the pot and connect them to an air pump.

If the pot is reasonably large you will only have to water once every 3 to 7 days;

and you decide for yourself if they are the best nutrients in the market, but make sure you also use their benificial bacteria.

happy growing, my friend

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

It is very strange how the plants that are more indica than sativa are doing very well; whereas, the strains that are more sativa influenced are not.

It is a personal blind spot, but I do feel the plants need a wet and dry cycle.

I know the standard way of thinking is that all the roots need are oxygen, water and nutrients, and that the plant through exhanging ions takes up the minerals it requires, but I feel there is more going on than that at the root zone.

Your grow is a learning experience for me too, my friend, and i hope I am wrong.

happy harvest,

john

[anguscr]

Hi John... The fact is that I cannot set up a good pot with a customize medium as I would like, mainly because the lack of mediums in the market, that's why I see a future business in importing them. This left me with the option of DWC as the most suitable for me for the moment. I think we should go & meet the guys once I'm over there, visit their instalation & negociate a representation for sale their products here localy in Costa Rica.

This is the system that I builded for seedling & root develovment, it has only 3 air stones at the bottom of the Rubermaid with 1 air pum each, brings a highly level of oxygen & the bubbles are very small. I'm using it with the girls in vege since they're still small

As you mentioned above there are some doing good & some doing so so, the Jack Herer, 2 cheeses & 1 big bang.

This is how the roots look today

I also builded a larger one that uses 2 airstones on the bottom of the rubermaid, & 6 sprayer on the top & 2 on the botton to transfer them in a week or so

I check the ones I have in flowering in an equal system are the roots are whiter than this ones, i was thinking that the sprayers do a nice & clean work, so in'm thinking in moving them in a couple of day to the above one. In the pots I just use volcanic rocks, this is the best i can do for the momment & it's working ok , but it's my first time using DWC.

Tanks a lot my friend & any thought you may have are welcome!!!!

[Guest superbluehaze]

You would be very sucessful, if you sold those products - Carlos is very knowledgeable, and would help in any way he could.

Perhaps the plants are not getting enough nutrient spray - air stones are fairly cheap and so are air pumps, try putting a few more in., and if you can perhaps some more sprayers - may be that would help.

if you could get some

"FULIFE - 500ML

By

Nutrifield

Fulife maximises your yields by improving your plants metabolic processes. It is derived from organic carbon allowing your plants to grow faster due to improved photosynthesis. Fulife conditions soils and will cause an improvement in stomata openings. More stomata openings will allow for better plant respiration and transpiration, while helping the growth of beneficial micro organisms. Fulife does not increase the salt index of your system. Therefore, there is little effect on osmotic potential (salt build up) allowing the plants water uptake to remain unaffected. Fulife enables you to run significantly lower electrical conductivity (EC) without effecting nutrient absorption.

Fulife is an organic electrolyte. Electrolytes are soluble particles that can effectively conduct an electrical current in liquid and plant substrates. The electrical activity serves to convert Silica and metallic elements into easily absorbable plant food, while at the same time increasing the nutrient chelating speed. Plants respond by being able to take up previously unavailable elements leading to nutritionally satisfied healthy plants. For exceptional results use in conjunction with Bioxy and Tri Boost."

and some Bioxy and Triboost. They are not really expensive, and I think they would do wonders for your plant

along with Nutrifield Zyme:

check out this store as I am sure he would send them to you no problems;

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Discount-Hydroponic-Supplies

they are sold in the states through the internet, but you would have to send Carlos an email and he would tell you which store sells them.

I think it would do wonders for your plants, I really do.

I do not think it would cause problems with your misters, as the power does go into suspension in water, and you can apply it from the top, without mixing it with your nutrient. Carlos could help you there. Send him an email, tell him john recommended their products, tell him your problems(not the plant though, just say herbs) and he will help.

all the best,

and happy growing

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

The two big bang are probably, as you said different phenos;

they are looking fine, my friend.

happy harvest,

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

that male cheese looks like a true male; i can not see any pistals on it - very strange for what are surposed to be female seeds.

happy harvest,

john

[anguscr]

Hi John... Yes the Cheese was a true male no pistals at all. & the other 2 Cheeses I growed with this male are the ones recovering very, very slow in vege, I think if they don't "wake up" as they're, I'll say that the all pack hat damage seeds, it does not make sence that all other are recover & looking ok & the 2 Cheeses barely making it!!!... we'll see...

Regarding the phenos of the Big Bang, acording to GHSC web, it contains Skunk, Northern Light & El Niño. As I red in your great post of your amazing Church collection, you did recognize the different dominant phenos of each plan, man; how you did it? just by "expert eye". I recognice 1 that has an Skunk form, but all the other i cannot say at all... I checked Fuzzy Northern Light & looked some pics on the net but man, it's very difficult to be sure!!! You did a great job on that post my friend.

[anguscr]

Hi John... Thank u for your advice, I placed 2 more air stones with independent air pumps & added 6 sprayers below the ones you can see on the picture & double the sprayed area, looks very nice. I'll contact Carlos at the right time, now & for the next 6- 8 months I'm pretty tied up with work stuff & do not have the time to deal with the local paper & legal work needed for import, I know the process I have to follow to register the products, get proper taxation, etc; & it takes a lot of time.

[Guest superbluehaze]

no worries, my friend, when ever you are ready, but their products would help your plants; I talked to Stacy(the hydro store, and he does send over seas, and as these products weigh very little, frieght should not cost much) here is somethi9ng u may find useful:

Aeroponic Systems are the hardest, but when dialed in they are the Lamborghini's of the plant world. There are a few versions of this but in general, it is plants in water. Most Aeroponic Systems use water to mist the roots. The water temp has to stay cool (around 60°-70°) this means water chillers most of the time if your are in Florida. With Aeroponic Systems you are more susceptible to Root Rot and other root bound diseases.

1. When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up (do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants). Recheck pH and adjust if necessary.
2. When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the nutrient solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch. Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation.

happy growing,

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

Aeroponics is a cutting edge growing technology also known as “soil less growing.” Aeroponics is the only growing technology which allows growing without any grow medium. Hydroponics allows for growing without soil but does require some sort of substitute grow medium (such as rock wool).

Aeroponics gives a higher degree of control to the grower than any other technology. The plants roots are suspended in a dark “grow chamber” protected from ultraviolet light. In this protected environment the desired nutrient is sprayed, intermittently, directly upon the roots. The temperature, concentration, and pH of the nutrient are easily controlled.

Roots grown without medium can withstand concentrations of nutrient which would burn roots in a grow medium. Unlike hydroponics, aeroponically grown plants do not have their roots continuously subjected to nutrient. Consequently, plants grown in the aeroponic system are not prone to root rot and pathogens.

Hydroponic systems rely upon air stones in the reservoir to oxygenate the nutrient. A relatively ineffective methodology. Aquarium hobbyists learned long ago the air stone emits bubbles much too large to effectively oxygenate the surrounding water.

The fine mist generated by the aeroponic mister maintains a much higher oxygen level without an air stone. Importantly, the grow chamber also is allowed to completely drain between cycles. It is during this “dry cycle” that the roots are completely immersed in oxygen while in a dark, protected environment.

The aeroponic system is a “closed loop” system which recycles the nutrient. A very efficient, cost effective system indeed.

Plants freed from the pursuit of water, food, and oxygen (at optimum temperatures) grow at a remarkable rate. Plants in the system can be grown much closer together. Boosting production and maximizing resources, especially artificial light.

[anguscr]

John... Remarkable information as always, several things you mention are "mind blowers lines" that I'm still diggesting.

1. When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up (do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants). Recheck pH and adjust if necessary.

On this one I'm kind of confuse since the only way I can know that the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution is by messuaring the EC that I guessing it supose to be reduce in a 50% , but I guess again that if i add water only, how the level back up? Unlees is reffer to water level only in wich case the EC will be reduce even more?????.

2. When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the nutrient solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch. Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation.

On the above I used to change the nutes every 2 weeks when flowering & 4 weeks in vege, but I checked the EC & PH at least 3 times a week. I'll say that they're refering this way to maximize the nutes use, wich will be nice, but I'm confuse with the #1.

The fine mist generated by the aeroponic mister maintains a much higher oxygen level without an air stone.

I used the Aeroponic mister (with 12 sprayers in the 20 gals Rubermaid) plus 2 air stones, according to plants will receive higher oxygen level if take them out, righ? should I?

Importantly, the grow chamber also is allowed to completely drain between cycles. It is during this “dry cycle” that the roots are completely immersed in oxygen while in a dark, protected environment.

I run my system 24/7 & what I get of the above I shoulfd not do it that way & perhaps only run it for 18 hrs a day so the drain between cycles can be accomplish, Am I righ?

John, the information you gave me is amazing, hyper appreciated; by the way when you mention the Store you talked to, was it the one from Nutrifield web, if not, can u give me their web, it's great that they can deliver WW.

Thank you very much my friend.

[Guest superbluehaze]

hi anguscr,

My friend I have little experience with these systems. When I first started I visited a number of hydro shops. I decided over a long period of time to go hydro, but to hand water;it is a personal choice and everyone's situation is different, and we tend to stay with what works for us;

my reasons are these the plants, at the shops, never looked very healthy to me;

secondly, because of legal reasons, as here every plants is given a value of $2000, even seeds also. I was caught with 54 plants, and that is all the law looks at here, is the number of plants you have;

4 or under, if inside using lights is considered for personal use.

over 4 and up to 49 plants is commercial, and you face prison if your numbers are high, and can get up to 15 years in prison max for having 49 plants.

The law makes no distinction between outdoor plants(which give a much higher yeild and indoor - in fact, it is more severe on indoors growers.

outdoors it is quite reasonable to achieve one pound per plant, indoors it is very difficult to achieve that sort of yeild, as a one pound plant is a very large plant.

most of the hydro systems are designed for the Sea of green technique, so the plants do not have a lot of space for roots, and without a large root mass, a plant can not yield very much.

So I decided to grow a few plants, grow them big, so that my growing technique is a mixture of outside and inside ways of growing;

Normally, the tank will lose water as the plants take it up and through evaporation, so the ec has to be tested quite regularly;

It is just my prejudice, as I know these systems can work very well and give outstanding growth, but I feel the roots need to go through a wet and dry cycle, and in most hydro systems they so; here are the links for you to check out;

http://www.simplyhydro.com/free2.htm( this is a great site with loads of great information)

here is the other link my friend, and I am sorry, I did not mean to make you confused:

http://www.astrogrow.com/archive.htm

I will have a read and get back to today,

happy growing,

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

As the plants take up water and nutrients, the levels in the tank change.

if they take up water only and little nutrients, then the ec rises.

Science does not fully understand how a plant can just take up the elements it wishes or needs;

like potassium and sulfate ions or just water;

this is what i meant when I said I thought there is a little more going on at the root level;

your confusion is my fault, and I am sorry; they are talking about a home made system, using a fish tank,;

I posted that as the principle is the same. the above link will take to that site, and look for the page on Home made systems.

www,simplyhydro.com as a section called hydroponic university, these pages give excellent information on all aspects of hydro growing

No! my friend do not take the air stones out

I attempted to copy and paste the whole page where that is stated just to give you a different view on these systems, and to help you perhaps modify your system so the sick plants do well.

the above link astro.com will take to directly to that page; I did not have much time, and should have read it more thoughtfully;

I am sorry, my friend.

I will go back and read it carefully;

That was my main point that using your system, your can let the roots go through a wet and dry cycle;

I will have a close read, and get back to you today, my friend,

do not worry, we will work things out together so that every plant of yours, using your system, will grow amazingly.

Your grow is a learning experience for me too, as I love this site and the responsibility i have been given as I am faced with all sorts of problems by other growers, and it is a real learning curve sorting these problems out.

we will do it together,and both of us will learn a lot;

all the best, my friend

and happy growing, cause that is what we all want, is to be happy watching our plants thrive,

john

[Guest superbluehaze]

www.simplyhydro.com/free2.htm

[Guest superbluehaze]

here is the link to the store. Stacy is the cheapest hydro store in Australia, and, maybe, even the world;

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Discount-Hydroponic-Supplies

[Guest superbluehaze]

I have read the pages and they are pushing their system, which is fair enough, but it does have a lot of good information there.

I do think that the roots should have a rest from being totally immersed in water;

Most hydro systems do this;

The roots like to be moist but not wet all the time, and pot is a plant that can not stand its roots to be too wet;

I think it would help immensely if your plants roots were given a rest, but they can never dry out completely, or else your plants will die;

If you could maybe have a on/off cycle, where the roots are misted but then given a rest so that they stay moist, but are not saturated all the time, I think it would solve your problem.

This is very specialized knowledge, and I do think if you sent Carlos an email, explained that you are waiting to purchase Nutrifield products, he would help.

I think he has studied botany at a very high level, as the company was founded by a research scientist.

He may even be able to tell you where you could purchase these products closer to you, so that you can get them sooner.

Tell him John sent you, he does know a little as I send him an email asking him some questions about their nutrients just yesterday and I did mention you

. He is very friendly, and his knowledge is far greater than mine. He could offer some excellent suggestions to solve your problem.

Meanwhile, I will keep my eyes open to see if I can not find a page on the web more helpful to solve your problem.

all the best, my friend, and happy growing,

john